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Yes, that=E2=80=99s what I=E2=80=99d always thought. But, I suppose, =
thinking something doesn=E2=80=99t always make it so.
Simon
=20
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Tom Felts
Sent: 20 March 2019 11:09
To: Jonathan Einhorn <einhornlawoffice@gmail.com>
Cc: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Car dies suddenly
=20
I always thought that if a Pertronix goes it goes completely, not stop =
and go. I could be wrong, but this is what I have been told many times.
tom
=20
----- Original Message -----
From: Jonathan Einhorn <einhornlawoffice@gmail.com =
To: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com =
Cc: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net =
Sent: Wed, 20 Mar 2019 05:08:09 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Car dies suddenly
=20
Two things that have caused this to happen to me: one was a bad rotor =
and the other was my Petronix
Jon
=20
Sent from my iPhone
On Mar 19, 2019, at 10:07 PM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com =
=20
Hi Michael--
=20
Firstly my condolences to you and your countrymen for the terrible event =
that happened last week. =20
=20
As to the B/W wire's being the culprit I tore it out long ago and =
replaced the stock cutoff switch with a superior marine unit with plated =
contacts, so scratch that as a cause. As I posted elsewhere I am hoping =
to actually find the definite issue such as a defective component or a =
failing connection, etc. rather than launching into replacing coils, =
changing disty's etc. and then waiting for something or nothing to =
happen. I'll start by going through the ignition circuit beginning with =
the key switch and see if I can find the offending bit, etc. If no luck =
then I'll start on the Mallory Unilite which, being an electronic system =
(Hall Effect?) , has no condenser.
=20
Thanks for the input and we'll stay in touch--Michael
=20
On Tue, Mar 19, 2019 at 9:34 PM Michael Salter <michael.salter@gmail.com =
Hi Michael,
100's do have the master switch grounding wire to the master switch so =
it might well be worth checking.
The symptoms sound very similar to those I encountered with a faulty =
coil. Mine would run for about 30 minutes fairly consistently before =
suddenly dying.=20
Even when the engine would not start the bad coil still produced a =
significant spark each time the open points were shorted with a =
screwdriver which I at the time, mistakenly, felt confirmed that the =
coil was actually okay ... it wasn't.
I was only able to confirm that the villain was in fact the coil by =
installing a replacement.
I have encountered very similar symptoms with a faulty condenser which =
was confirmed by spraying it sparingly with ether to cool it down and =
then finding that the engine started immediately.
As I'm sure you are aware a fuel delivery problem never causes the =
engine to stop dead ... it typically sort of peters out!!
I would recommend trying the condenser trick and then, if a regular =
coil can be used as a substitute for the Mallory try a substitution.
=20
M
=20
I wonder where the term "peters out" comes from ... Google time.
=20
=20
On Wed, Mar 20, 2019 at 2:13 PM <simon.lachlan@alexarevel.plus.com =
I=E2=80=99m presuming that the car=E2=80=99s a 100? You make reference =
to 4 plugs=E2=80=A6..
Do 100s have the dreaded white wire from the on/off switch in the boot? =
Do 100s have the switch even? Anyhow, that wire shorting out has caused =
endless tears.
Or is it a black/white wire?
Worth a look.
Simon
=20
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net =
Sent: 19 March 2019 17:46
To: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net =
Subject: [Healeys] Car dies suddenly
=20
Yesterday morning I went out for a drive and after about five miles the =
car suddenly died. There was no rough running, sputtering or missing =
leading up to it=E2=80=94the car simply died. I coasted to the side of =
the road and after about 30 seconds since the key was still on I pushed =
the start button. To my surprise the car started immediately, revved =
freely and idled smoothly. A bit perplexed I decided to drive on to see =
what would happen now that I was paying close attention. The car =
accelerated smoothly and ran fine for about 1/2 mile and then it died =
again in the same manner as earlier. I shut off the key, popped the hood =
and examined the ignition system. Everything seemed fine=E2=80=94all =
spark plug leads were firmly in place as was the lead from the coil to =
the distributor. The power wires to the coil were tight and the =
harness/connector to the distributor (see below) seemed fine.
=20
After scratching my head for a couple of minutes I got in the car, =
turned on the ignition and pushed the start button. Again, the car =
started right up and ran normally. With fingers crossed I headed for my =
shop/garage, about ten miles away and got there without any further =
event. Though the problem did not seem to be fuel related I decided to =
verify that this was not a fuel delivery issue. I have a double-headed =
SU fuel pump wired to a switch mounted just behind the driver=E2=80=99s =
seat which allows me to switch between pumps as well as turn the fuel =
pump off. While I was running the car at highway speeds it ran perfectly =
on either pump and when I selected the =E2=80=9Coff=E2=80=9D position it =
slowly lost power as I expected it to=E2=80=94but in no way like it had =
suddenly twice died 15 or so minutes earlier. This indicated I was not =
dealing with a fuel issue but rather something related either to the =
ignition system or to the primary wires that run to it.=20
=20
This morning I dove a bit deeper to try and diagnose the problem. The =
car has a Mallory Unilite ignition system tied to an MSD coil which has =
been in place and performed faultlessly for a number of years. I removed =
the distributor cap and everything appears to be okay, at least =
visually. The interior of the distributor was clean and dry as was the =
cap, leads, carbon contact, optical reader, etc. Mallory specifies the =
use of a ballast resistor in the lead from the power source to the coil =
and with the engine fast-idling I tested 12.5 VDC to the resistor and =
about 5.5-6 VDC out of it and at the positive coil terminal.=20
=20
I have a large low-oil pressure light that is mounted in the dash in =
place of the original overdrive switch. It is wired from the ignition =
switch through a 10 psi normally-closed switch mounted in the oil =
pressure gauge sender line and then to the light. I point this out =
because both times when the engine shut down yesterday the light =
immediately came on, from which I conclude that the ignition switch =
itself is not the source of the problem. And though I did not remove the =
ignition key switch the wires to and from it seem tight and intact.
=20
So my question is: What do I do? I hate to throw parts at it without =
finding something that appears to be defective but I don=E2=80=99t know =
where to start any further tests, etc. I also don=E2=80=99t want to =
simply wait for the issue to happen again. BTW over the weekend I drove =
about 150 miles with no issues whatever. Beyond installing four new =
plugs last week I have not performed any work related to the ignition =
system. All suggestions/questions welcome=E2=80=A6.
=20
Best--Michael Oritt, BN1
_______________________________________________
=20
=20
=20
Archive: =
http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeyshttp://autox.team.net/archive
=20
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
=20
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
=20
_______________________________________________
Archive: =
http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeyshttp://autox.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/einhornlawoffice@gmail.com
=20
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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=3DEN-GB link=3Dblue =
vlink=3Dpurple><div class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>Yes, that=E2=80=99s what =
I=E2=80=99d always thought. But, I suppose, thinking something =
doesn=E2=80=99t always make it so.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>Simon<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><div><di=
v style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0cm =
0cm 0cm'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
lang=3DEN-US>From:</span></b><span lang=3DEN-US> Healeys =
<healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> <b>On Behalf Of </b>Tom =
Felts<br><b>Sent:</b> 20 March 2019 11:09<br><b>To:</b> Jonathan Einhorn =
<einhornlawoffice@gmail.com><br><b>Cc:</b> Austin Healey =
<healeys@autox.team.net><br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Car dies =
suddenly<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'>I =
always thought that if a Pertronix goes it goes completely, not stop and =
go. I could be wrong, but this is what I have been told many =
times.<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'>tom=
<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'><o:=
p> </o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'>---=
-- Original Message -----<br>From: Jonathan Einhorn <<a =
href=3D"mailto:einhornlawoffice@gmail.com";>einhornlawoffice@gmail.com</a>=
><br>To: Michael Oritt <<a =
href=3D"mailto:michael.oritt@gmail.com";>michael.oritt@gmail.com</a>><b=
r>Cc: Austin Healey <<a =
href=3D"mailto:healeys@autox.team.net";>healeys@autox.team.net</a>><br>=
Sent: Wed, 20 Mar 2019 05:08:09 -0400 (EDT)<br>Subject: Re: [Healeys] =
Car dies suddenly<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'><o:=
p> </o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'>Two=
things that have caused this to happen to me: one was a bad rotor and =
the other was my Petronix<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div =
id=3DAppleMailSignature><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'>Jon=
<o:p></o:p></span></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'><o:=
p> </o:p></span></p></div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'>Sen=
t from my iPhone<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'><br=
>On Mar 19, 2019, at 10:07 PM, Michael Oritt <<a =
href=3D"mailto:michael.oritt@gmail.com"; =
target=3D"_blank">michael.oritt@gmail.com</a>> =
wrote:<o:p></o:p></span></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'><o:=
p> </o:p></span></p></div></div><blockquote =
style=3D'margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'><div><div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:#3333FF'>H=
i Michael--<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:#3333FF'><=
o:p> </o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:#3333FF'>F=
irstly my condolences to you and your countrymen for the terrible event =
that happened last week. <o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:#3333FF'><=
o:p> </o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:#3333FF'>A=
s to the B/W wire's being the culprit I tore it out long ago and =
replaced the stock cutoff switch with a superior marine unit with plated =
contacts, so scratch that as a cause. As I posted elsewhere I am =
hoping to actually find the definite issue such as a defective component =
or a failing connection, etc. rather than launching into replacing =
coils, changing disty's etc. and then waiting for something or nothing =
to happen. I'll start by going through the ignition circuit =
beginning with the key switch and see if I can find the offending bit, =
etc. If no luck then I'll start on the Mallory Unilite which, =
being an electronic system (Hall Effect?) , has no =
condenser.<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:#3333FF'><=
o:p> </o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:#3333FF'>T=
hanks for the input and we'll stay in =
touch--Michael<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'><o:=
p> </o:p></span></p><div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'>On =
Tue, Mar 19, 2019 at 9:34 PM Michael Salter <<a =
href=3D"mailto:michael.salter@gmail.com"; =
target=3D"_blank">michael.salter@gmail.com</a>> =
wrote:<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><blockquote =
style=3D'border:none;border-left:solid #CCCCCC 1.0pt;padding:0cm 0cm 0cm =
6.0pt;margin-left:4.8pt;margin-right:0cm'><div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Comic =
Sans MS";color:black'>Hi Michael,<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Comic =
Sans MS";color:black'>100's do have the master switch grounding wire to =
the master switch so it might well be worth =
checking.<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Comic Sans MS";color:black'>The =
symptoms sound very similar to those I encountered with a faulty coil. =
Mine would run for about 30 minutes fairly consistently before suddenly =
dying. <o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Comic Sans MS";color:black'>Even =
when the engine would not start the bad coil still produced a =
significant spark each time the open points were shorted with a =
screwdriver which I at the time, mistakenly, felt confirmed that =
the coil was actually okay ... it =
wasn't.<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Comic Sans MS";color:black'>I was =
only able to confirm that the villain was in fact the coil by installing =
a replacement.<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Comic =
Sans MS";color:black'>I have encountered very similar symptoms with a =
faulty condenser which was confirmed by spraying it sparingly with ether =
to cool it down and then finding that the engine started =
immediately.<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Comic Sans MS";color:black'>As =
I'm sure you are aware a fuel delivery problem never causes the engine =
to stop dead ... it typically sort of peters =
out!!<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Comic Sans =
MS";color:black'> I would recommend trying the condenser trick and =
then, if a regular coil can be used as a substitute for the Mallory try =
a substitution.<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Comic =
Sans MS";color:black'><o:p> </o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Comic =
Sans MS";color:black'>M<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Comic =
Sans MS";color:black'><o:p> </o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Comic =
Sans MS";color:black'>I wonder where the term "peters out" =
comes from ... Google time.<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Comic =
Sans MS";color:black'><o:p> </o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'><o:=
p> </o:p></span></p><div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'>On =
Wed, Mar 20, 2019 at 2:13 PM <<a =
href=3D"mailto:simon.lachlan@alexarevel.plus.com"; =
target=3D"_blank">simon.lachlan@alexarevel.plus.com</a>> =
wrote:<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><blockquote =
style=3D'border:none;border-left:solid #CCCCCC 1.0pt;padding:0cm 0cm 0cm =
6.0pt;margin-left:4.8pt;margin-right:0cm'><div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'>I=E2=
=80=99m presuming that the car=E2=80=99s a 100? You make reference to 4 =
plugs=E2=80=A6..<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'>Do =
100s have the dreaded white wire from the on/off switch in the boot? Do =
100s have the switch even? Anyhow, that wire shorting out has caused =
endless tears.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'>Or =
is it a black/white wire?<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'>Wor=
th a look.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'>Sim=
on<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'>&nb=
sp;<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><b><span =
lang=3DEN-US =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'>Fro=
m:</span></b><span lang=3DEN-US =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'> =
Healeys <<a href=3D"mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net"; =
target=3D"_blank">healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>> <b>On Behalf Of =
</b>Michael Oritt<br><b>Sent:</b> 19 March 2019 17:46<br><b>To:</b> =
Austin Healey <<a href=3D"mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"; =
target=3D"_blank">healeys@autox.team.net</a>><br><b>Subject:</b> =
[Healeys] Car dies suddenly</span><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'><o:=
p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'>&nb=
sp;<o:p></o:p></span></p><div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Verdana",sans-serif;color:#333333;=
background:#FAFAFA'>Yesterday morning I went out for a drive and after =
about five miles the car suddenly died. There was no rough running, =
sputtering or missing leading up to it=E2=80=94the car simply died. I =
coasted to the side of the road and after about 30 seconds since the key =
was still on I pushed the start button. To my surprise the car started =
immediately, revved freely and idled smoothly. A bit perplexed I decided =
to drive on to see what would happen now that I was paying close =
attention. The car accelerated smoothly and ran fine for about 1/2 mile =
and then it died again in the same manner as earlier. I shut off the =
key, popped the hood and examined the ignition system. Everything seemed =
fine=E2=80=94all spark plug leads were firmly in place as was the lead =
from the coil to the distributor. The power wires to the coil were tight =
and the harness/connector to the distributor (see below) seemed =
fine.</span><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Verdana",sans-serif;color:#333333'=
><br><br></span><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'><o:=
p></o:p></span></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'><o:=
p> </o:p></span></p></div><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Verdana",sans-serif;color:#333333'=
><br><span style=3D'background:#FAFAFA'>After scratching my head for a =
couple of minutes I got in the car, turned on the ignition and pushed =
the start button. Again, the car started right up and ran normally. With =
fingers crossed I headed for my shop/garage, about ten miles away and =
got there without any further event. Though the problem did not seem to =
be fuel related I decided to verify that this was not a fuel delivery =
issue. I have a double-headed SU fuel pump wired to a switch mounted =
just behind the driver=E2=80=99s seat which allows me to switch between =
pumps as well as turn the fuel pump off. While I was running the car at =
highway speeds it ran perfectly on either pump and when I selected the =
=E2=80=9Coff=E2=80=9D position it slowly lost power as I expected it =
to=E2=80=94but in no way like it had suddenly twice died 15 or so =
minutes earlier. This indicated I was not dealing with a fuel issue but =
rather something related either to the ignition system or to the primary =
wires that run to it. </span><br><br></span><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'><o:=
p></o:p></span></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'><o:=
p> </o:p></span></p></div><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Verdana",sans-serif;color:#333333'=
><br><span style=3D'background:#FAFAFA'>This morning I dove a bit deeper =
to try and diagnose the problem. The car has a Mallory Unilite ignition =
system tied to an MSD coil which has been in place and performed =
faultlessly for a number of years. I removed the distributor cap and =
everything appears to be okay, at least visually. The interior of the =
distributor was clean and dry as was the cap, leads, carbon contact, =
optical reader, etc. Mallory specifies the use of a ballast resistor in =
the lead from the power source to the coil and with the engine =
fast-idling I tested 12.5 VDC to the resistor and about 5.5-6 VDC out of =
it and at the positive coil terminal. </span><br><br></span><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'><o:=
p></o:p></span></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'><o:=
p> </o:p></span></p></div><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Verdana",sans-serif;color:#333333'=
><br><span style=3D'background:#FAFAFA'>I have a large low-oil pressure =
light that is mounted in the dash in place of the original overdrive =
switch. It is wired from the ignition switch through a 10 psi =
normally-closed switch mounted in the oil pressure gauge sender line and =
then to the light. I point this out because both times when the engine =
shut down yesterday the light immediately came on, from which I conclude =
that the ignition switch itself is not the source of the problem. And =
though I did not remove the ignition key switch the wires to and from it =
seem tight and intact.</span><br><br></span><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'><o:=
p></o:p></span></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'><o:=
p> </o:p></span></p></div><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Verdana",sans-serif;color:#333333'=
><br><span style=3D'background:#FAFAFA'>So my question is: What do I do? =
I hate to throw parts at it without finding something that appears to be =
defective but I don=E2=80=99t know where to start any further tests, =
etc. I also don=E2=80=99t want to simply wait for the issue to happen =
again. BTW over the weekend I drove about 150 miles with no issues =
whatever. Beyond installing four new plugs last week I have not =
performed any work related to the ignition system. All =
suggestions/questions welcome=E2=80=A6.</span></span><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'><o:=
p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:#3333FF'>&=
nbsp;</span><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'><o:=
p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Verdana",sans-serif;color:#333333;=
background:#FAFAFA'>Best--Michael Oritt, BN1</span><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'><o:=
p></o:p></span></p></div></div></div></div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'>___=
____________________________________________<o:p></o:p></span></p><div><p=
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'><o:=
p> </o:p></span></p></div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'>Sup=
port <a href=3D"http://Team.Net"; target=3D"_blank">Team.Net</a><a =
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>Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys"; =
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v></blockquote><blockquote =
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