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Michael -
Yes, try retorquing first.
You would only back off the nut a very slight 1/4 - 1/2 turn, just to
realign the nut's torque reading so it isn't wrong. Then tighten to spec.
Do each nut individually, one at a time, following the standard middle to
out torquing sequence.
No need to drain water. It will remain sealed during the whole process as
there will not be any leakage if the radiator is not under pressure. You
can undo the radiator cap if you wish to release any pressure.
I tend to have better results with the engine half warmed down after
running, so everything is well lubricated. Warm to the touch but not too
hot.
Best,
Alan
>
>
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<div dir=3D"ltr"><div dir=3D"ltr">Michael -<div><br></div><div>Yes, try ret=
orquing first.</div><div><br></div><div>You would only back off the nut a v=
ery slight 1/4 - 1/2 turn, just to realign the nut's torque reading so =
it isn't wrong.=C2=A0 Then tighten to spec.=C2=A0 Do each nut individua=
lly, one at a time, following the standard middle to out torquing sequence.=
=C2=A0=C2=A0<br><br></div><div>No need to drain water.=C2=A0 It will remain=
sealed during the whole process as there will not be any leakage if the ra=
diator is not under pressure.=C2=A0 You can undo the radiator cap if you wi=
sh to release any pressure.<br><br>I tend to have better results with the e=
ngine half warmed down after running, so everything is well lubricated.=C2=
=A0 Warm to the touch but not too hot.</div><div><br></div><div>Best,</div>=
<div><br></div><div>Alan</div></div><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><blockquote =
class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px sol=
id rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><br>
</blockquote></div></div>
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