Years ago I had the same problem with the fuel pump not "pumping up and
stopping" with the engine off and the key on. I found one of the check valve
membranes split and allowing fuel to leak by. Replaced the check valve and
problem solved.
Larry
'67 BJ8
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
To: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Feb 19, 2018 3:48 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Strange Timing Setting
I went through an early (BN2) pump for a different issue--erratic pumping--and
noticed what appeared to be a small bypass port between the brass valves.? I
surmised (guessed) that the passageway may be there to allow the pump to 'bleed
down' when the engine isn't running.? Not sure why, but one reason could be
that it could be detrimental to the diaphragm to be in the 'cocked and loaded'
position for too long.? Can't say if the later pumps have something similar
but, as Kees says, the flapper valves probably leak enough to prevent this.
Bob
--------------------------------
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA
On February 18, 2018 at 10:50 AM Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl> wrote:
It should pump/click every 15s or more. There is always a slight seepage
through the plastic valves. They are never 100% leak free. If you hear it
pumping more often the chance is that the seat faces of the valves are dirty or
corroded. This can usually be remedied by carefully removing the valve
assemblies, prying out the plastic valves very prudently, clean them and clean
the faces of the bodies. If very corroded the valve assemblies can be renewed.
When fitting them back in the pump body use new rubber seals (flat rubber
rings). If they are not available you can usually get away with fitting
suitable O-rings.
If the pump is out clean the contact points with a strip of 2000 flower paper.
When the points are severely worn, dismantle and rebuild the pump and keep the
3-layer membrane if possible as the new single layer membranes are of a lesser
quality. Be very careful not to damage the thin kevlar layer when removing the
pump body, separate the layers and rub some talcum powder between the layers
very sparingly to create a supple membrane assembly.
If you follow the SU instruction to the letter the job of rebuilding is a
piece of cake and should not take more than half an hour. Parts are available
at the SU dealers. (Google)
Kees Oudesluijs
Op 18-2-2018 om 8:55 schreef Patrick & Caroline Quinn:
Greetings
?
Well the cavalry arrived and the engine in the BN3 is now running for the first
time in nearly seven years.
?
If you recall that despite going by the book the rotor button looked to be 120
degrees out.
?
The solution? Move the geared camshaft/distributor drive about four teeth, put
it all back together, press the solenoid and away it went. Good oil pressure
and lots of gunk out the exhaust and on to my friend?s E-type. Very pleased!
?
Now the next question is why does a SU fuel pump keep pumping occasionally with
the ignition on even when there are no leaks and the float bowl levels are
correct.
?
Hoo Roo
?
Patrick Quinn
Blue Mountains, Australia
?
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