After thinking about it, this sounds like a head/gasket leak. The
leak--and subsequent overheating--would be greater under load, and as
heat increased, the crack would grow, causing greater heating.
On 7/19/2017 4:55 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:
> My thoughts too. I've done everything Kees suggested, with the
> exception of the electric fan. My BJ8 will go 80mph all day in
> 100+degF heat--just did almost five thousand miles through southern
> CA, NV, AZ, UT, WY, MT, WA, OR and 3 Canadian provinces--and stay
> below 190degF, and my BN2 will do 70mph on hot days and stay below
> 190, which amazes me because it has that goofy, one piece cast
> aluminium fan. Neither will even get up to 180--thermo
> setpoint--unless it's at least 75deg out. I did hit 212 one time
> pulling the Panamint grade out of Death Valley on a 115deg day (had to
> use the heater as an auxiliary radiator--that was fun).
>
> John's car is heating up at speed, which is not the usual problem
> (which is heating up in stop-and-go traffic). I'm thinking there are
> other issues--timing, mixture, crud in the block, ineffective pump,
> etc.--that an Al radiator may help mask, but sooner or later the piper
> has to be paid. Anyway, isn't the main/only benefit of an Al radiator
> is a bit of weight saving? IIRC, copper and brass are better heat
> conductors than Al.
>
> I know I didn't answer your question, John, but I suspect a shiny new
> radiator isn't going to fix the underlying problem.
>
> Bob
>
>
> On 7/19/2017 3:23 PM, Oudesluys wrote:
>> Check your water pump on efficiency (cavitation), fit a proper SMITH
>> or equivalent sleeved thermostat, have a more efficient core fitted
>> to your existing radiator and fit an electric radiator fan.
>> An aluminium radiator is not better than a proper copper one.
>>
>> Kees Oudesluijs
>>
>>
>> Op 19-7-2017 om 23:21 schreef John O'Brien:
>>> Looking for any experience with current offerings on ebay.
>>>
>>> I just got back a few days ago from the Conclave in Waco. We had a
>>> great time and met many nice folks. On our way home to Nebraska
>>> driving in 95 plus temps, my 65 BJ8 started running hotter and
>>> hotter until we had to pull into a service station and let it cool
>>> down. It boiled over in the lot, so I had to replace some
>>> antifreeze solution too. It seemed like, once the gauge got over
>>> 212 the temp rocketed well past the 230 upper limit on the gauge. I
>>> had a similar situation last year driving to Wisconsin on a hot day.
>>>
>>> So... I'm thinking of replacing the radiator with an aluminum one.
>>> I put an aluminum rad. in my bugeye a few years back and never have
>>> a heat problem. I'm wondering if anyone has any experience with the
>>> aluminum radiators on ebay. One is a Worley for $355.00 w/ free
>>> shipping
>>> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-radiator-for-AUSTIN-HEALEY-3000-1959-1967-manual-/112368575956?fits=Make%3AAustin+Healey%7CModel%3A3000&epid=906260673&hash=item1a29b065d4:g:zbQAAOSw4CFY7nCD&vxp=mtr
>>>
>>> and the other is a GPI racing at $350.00 w/ free shipping
>>> http://www.ebay.com/itm/aluminum-radiator-AUSTIN-HEALEY-3000-1959-1967-/252984917906?fits=Make%3AAustin+Healey%7CModel%3A3000&hash=item3ae7137f92:g:Ia4AAOSwnHZYfX0m&vxp=mtr
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Both made in China and look almost the same except the Worley fan
>>> guard looks different. The GPI looks more like the original Healey
>>> rad. I've also seen an American made one from Wizard Cooling for
>>> $499.00,
>>> https://wizardcooling.com/1959-1968-austin-healey-3000-aluminum-radiator/
>>> that looks very close to the GPI. The Worley and GPI do not look
>>> like they have the overflow tube on the side of the filler neck like
>>> the Wizard.
>>>
>>> Any thoughts or experience with any of these would be appreciated.
>>>
>>> John O'Brien
>>>
>>> '65 BJ8 (Madelyn)
>>>
>>> '61 Bugeye (Lucy)
>>>
>>
>>
>
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