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In that case one can (should?) bleed the the hard pipe side as well (if
it isn't rusted permanently shut).
Having said that... if the calipers were properly bled, there would not
be sufficient air remaining to still allow the pedal to go to the floor.
Rodger stated that the pedal was good on the second stroke, so I'm going
to say that the rear are simply having to travel too far to contact the
drum on the first push.. or like wise the front pads are worn to paper
thin as well or a combination of the two. Secondly, I would also crack
the lines into the booster if fitted and bleed there too.
DaveP
On 7/4/2016 8:22 PM, Michael Salter wrote:
> Have to agree with Andy,
> Although one cannot see exactly where the cross over pipe runs it
> "shuold run from the top of the first side to the bottom of the second
> side otherwise as Andy pointed out there would be no way to eliminate
> the air from the first (brake hose) side.
> Michael S
>
>
> On Sun, Jul 3, 2016 at 1:31 PM, Roger Grace <roggrace@telus.net
>
> Yes these are the beasts. Thanks for that Andy and to all for numerous
> ideas.
> Yes, and given all the bleeding have done it hopefully is the issue.
> This morning I took 3/4 of a jam jar (almost a reservoir) of fluid
> out of
> each wheel; minimal air came out using a vacuum pump.
> Some minor improvement and pedal now about an inch from floor on
> first pump
> and car is ... maybe driveable.
> As I don't have a helper have to use this technique; it took but
> 10 mins to bleed when I recently changed out my booster; have also
> ordered some
> Russell Speed Bleeders.
>
> Not quite sure how to address this reverse bleeding procedure that
> Andy
> suggests.
> I have a vacuum pump that have been using to bleed with and it
> does not
> involve any pedal pumping.
> Was thinking of trying to suck from the booster bleeder, from each
> calliper in turn -
> any thoughts ?
>
> Tkx
> rg
>
>
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Andy Thorp
> Sent: Sunday, July 3, 2016 2:51 AM
> To: 'Healey List'
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Brakes
>
> If these are the calipers in question then the reason for the
> problem is
> kind of obvious- there is no way of getting air out of one half as
> it has to
> flow downwards, then across the bottom pipe and up the other side.
> Any air
> stuck in the bores behind the pistons will stay trapped there. Reverse
> bleeding should clear it if the internal drillings are done sensibly.
>
>
> https://www.ahspares.co.uk/product-images/fullsize/10a937bf-2288-4027-a5ec-2e753aadac6f-3.jpg
>
> Andy.
> --------------------------------------------
> On Sun, 3/7/16, Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk
>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Brakes
> To: "'Healey List'" <healeys@autox.team.net
> Received: Sunday, 3 July, 2016, 8:17 PM
>
> Bleeding brakes can drive you
> crazy.See the attached, from my BMC
> manual. It addresses the question rather neatly, suggesting
> that air may be drawn in at the end of the downward push;
> for example, the threads on the bleeders may be slightly
> worn.The trick is to close the bleeder
> 100% before the downward stroke ie, most important, while
> fluid is still coming out.A device such as A Gunson?s
> Eezibleed will mange that OK.The pdf?s first line may seem a
> little strange......it?s a note addressed to myself. The
> relevant paragraph is not in my pdf version of the manual
> for some reason so I added it as a reminder.Good luck,Simon
> _______________________________________________
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>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
> Version: 2015.0.6201 / Virus Database: 4613/12545 - Release Date:
> 07/02/16
> _______________________________________________
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>
>
> --
> /If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem./
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> Suggested annual donation $12.75
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--
Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM
87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/
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<p>In that case one can (should?) bleed the the hard pipe side as
well (if it isn't rusted permanently shut).</p>
<p>Having said that... if the calipers were properly bled, there
would not be sufficient air remaining to still allow the pedal to
go to the floor. Rodger stated that the pedal was good on the
second stroke, so I'm going to say that the rear are simply having
to travel too far to contact the drum on the first push.. or like
wise the front pads are worn to paper thin as well or a
combination of the two. Secondly, I would also crack the lines
into the booster if fitted and bleed there too.</p>
<p>DaveP<br>
</p>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 7/4/2016 8:22 PM, Michael Salter
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote
cite="mid:CAB3i7L+8D0XcMa6ot=sfNGWEFOL=KeBv8PJ7ZmAAbk18pTLUnw@mail.gmail.com"
type="cite">
<div dir="ltr">
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">Have to agree with Andy,<br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">Although one cannot see exactly
where the cross over pipe runs it "shuold run from the top of
the first side to the bottom of the second side otherwise as
Andy pointed out there would be no way to eliminate the air
from the first (brake hose) side.<br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">Michael S<br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;font-size:small"><br>
</div>
</div>
<div class="gmail_extra"><br>
<div class="gmail_quote">On Sun, Jul 3, 2016 at 1:31 PM, Roger
Grace <span dir="ltr"><<a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="mailto:roggrace@telus.net";
target="_blank">roggrace@telus.net</a>></span>
wrote:<br>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0
.8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">Yes these
are the beasts. Thanks for that Andy and to all for numerous<br>
ideas.<br>
Yes, and given all the bleeding have done it hopefully is
the issue.<br>
This morning I took 3/4 of a jam jar (almost a reservoir) of
fluid out of<br>
each wheel; minimal air came out using a vacuum pump.<br>
Some minor improvement and pedal now about an inch from
floor on first pump<br>
and car is ... maybe driveable.<br>
As I don't have a helper have to use this technique; it took
but 10 mins to bleed when I recently changed out my booster;
have also ordered some<br>
Russell Speed Bleeders.<br>
<br>
Not quite sure how to address this reverse bleeding
procedure that Andy<br>
suggests.<br>
I have a vacuum pump that have been using to bleed with and
it does not<br>
involve any pedal pumping.<br>
Was thinking of trying to suck from the booster bleeder,
from each calliper in turn -<br>
any thoughts ?<br>
<br>
Tkx<br>
rg<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
-----Original Message----- From: Andy Thorp<br>
Sent: Sunday, July 3, 2016 2:51 AM<br>
To: 'Healey List'<span class=""><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Brakes<br>
<br>
</span>
If these are the calipers in question then the reason for
the problem is<br>
kind of obvious- there is no way of getting air out of one
half as it has to<br>
flow downwards, then across the bottom pipe and up the other
side. Any air<br>
stuck in the bores behind the pistons will stay trapped
there. Reverse<br>
bleeding should clear it if the internal drillings are done
sensibly.<br>
<br>
<a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="https://www.ahspares.co.uk/product-images/fullsize/10a937bf-2288-4027-a5ec-2e753aadac6f-3.jpg";
rel="noreferrer"
target="_blank">https://www.ahspares.co.uk/product-images/fullsize/10a937bf-2288-4027-a5ec-2e753aadac6f-3.jpg</a><br>
<br>
Andy.<br>
--------------------------------------------<span class=""><br>
On Sun, 3/7/16, Simon Lachlan <<a
moz-do-not-send="true"
href="mailto:simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk";
target="_blank"><a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
href="mailto:simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk";>simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk</a></a>>
wrote:<br>
<br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Brakes<br>
</span>
To: "'Healey List'" <<a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net";
target="_blank">healeys@autox.team.net</a>>,
"'Roger Grace'"<br>
<<a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="mailto:roggrace@telus.net";
target="_blank">roggrace@telus.net</a>><br>
Received: Sunday, 3 July, 2016, 8:17 PM<span class=""><br>
<br>
Bleeding brakes can drive you<br>
</span>
crazy.See the attached, from my BMC<span class=""><br>
manual. It addresses the question rather neatly,
suggesting<br>
that air may be drawn in at the end of the downward push;<br>
for example, the threads on the bleeders may be slightly<br>
</span>
worn.The trick is to close the bleeder<span class=""><br>
100% before the downward stroke ie, most important, while<br>
</span>
fluid is still coming out.A device such as A Gunson?s<br>
Eezibleed will mange that OK.The pdf?s first line may seem a<span
class=""><br>
little strange......it?s a note addressed to myself. The<br>
relevant paragraph is not in my pdf version of the manual<br>
for some reason so I added it as a reminder.Good
luck,Simon<br>
</span><span class="">
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-----<br>
No virus found in this message.<br>
Checked by AVG - <a moz-do-not-send="true"
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</blockquote>
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<br>
<br clear="all">
<br>
-- <br>
<div class="gmail_signature" data-smartmail="gmail_signature">
<div dir="ltr">
<div>
<div dir="ltr"><i><font size="2"><span style="color:black">If
you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an
electrical problem.</span></font></i><br>
<br>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
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<br>
<fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
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<pre wrap="">_______________________________________________
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<br>
<div class="moz-signature">-- <br>
Dave Porter
Porter Custom Bicycles
2909 Arno St. NE
Albuquerque, NM 87107
505-352-1378
Go HERE: my world <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
href="http://www.porterbikes.com/";>www.porterbikes.com/</a>
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