When I was a young trainee engineer an old bloke showed me that to
clean-up a damaged thread by hand screw on a nut until it would not
continue and then tap all sides of the hexagon sides of the nut while
applying torque to turn the nut. Slowly continuing this will reshape
damaged thread without removing metal which is what the cutting process of
the die nut will do. The amount of metal in a thread form is easily
reworked if the nut will start on a previously well formed thread..
Biggest risk is black and bruised fingers!
This is a crude form of roll forming a thread and we all know rolled
threads are much stronger and better than cut threads.
Joe
On 17/03/16 10:36 AM, "Healeys on behalf of Per Schoerner"
<healeys-bounces@autox.team.net on behalf of per@schoerner.se> wrote:
>Hi
>Use a thread file, could also be called a thread restorer, instead. If
>you run a die or a nut over them you risk to damage the threads even more.
>
>Per
>
>Den 2016-03-16 kl. 20:26, skrev John Vrugtman:
>> I had a similar problem with mine, Bruce Philips told me to buy two nuts
>> and use one to clean up the threads, worked great.
>>
>> John
>> 64/66 BJ8s
>>
>> On 3/16/2016 2:54 PM, rrengineer.mike wrote:
>>>
>>> Does anyone know the thread size for the steering wheel nut. The
>>> threads on the shaft of my BN2 column are a little buggered up and I
>>> would like to run a die over them. The nut just engages the shafts
>>> less than a full turn now.
>>> Mike MacLean
>__________________________
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