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I use two long screwdrivers to lift of the needle of a
gauge/clock/speedo. Clamp the speedometer housing securely, twist the
bezel and take it of together with the glass, put the tips of the
screwdrivers under the centre of the needle opposite each other and use
the rim of the speedo housing as a resting point while gently levering
of the needle. This way there is no danger to damage the face although
it is wise to cover it with a piece of cardboard, just in case.
As mentioned before only lightly dust the face as the white paint can
dissolve in water when old.
Putting back the needle in the right position is easy as there is a
small white dot on the "wrong" side of the resting pin. The needle
should point to this dot when fitting/fitted. When the needle is fixed
in its proper position just lift the tip of the needle gently over the
resting pin to the left hand side.
Use some clock oil very very sparingly to lubricate the pivots of the
needle assembly and cup only. Use 3-in-1 oil to lubricate the speedo
cable receptacle. Clean out the outer speedo cable as good as you can
using e.g. petrol/white spirit etc. wipe the inner cable clean and
sparingly grease the inner cable only using multi purpose grease or
graphite/molibdenium-disulfide grease.
However be aware that if a speedo stops working properly it is usually
time for a complete overhaul/rebuild.
Kees Oudesluijs
Op 9-2-2016 om 0:57 schreef HealeyRick:
> Michael is correct. The needle and face have to come off first. I
> have a "special tool" for removal of the needle as well. 18G-999
> "Common Dinner Fork". First cut a "V" shaped slot into a cardboard
> index card. Insert the card between the needle and the speedo face so
> that the point of the V is under the needle center. The card is to
> protect the surface of the gauge when using the "special tool."
> Insert the fork so the space between the middle tines are under the
> center part of the needle and carefully lever (prise) the needle up.
> Work around the needle a bit at a time, moving the card as needed to
> protect the instrument face. If you try to lever just from one side,
> it will cock the needle on the pin and make it difficult to withdraw.
> Even still, they can be difficult to take off. Then remove the two
> tiny screws holding the gauge face and remove the face. From there,
> tilt the gauge body so the tripmeter shaft clears the hole, whilst
> pushing in on the shaft to make it as short as possible. Resist the
> urge to do anything to clean the gauge face other than dusting with a
> soft brush as by now the paint surface is quite fragile and you may
> end up removing your markings. Return special took 18G-999 to the
> dishwasher before SWMBO finds out.
>
> Best of luck,
> Rick Neville
>
> On Mon, Feb 8, 2016 at 11:21 AM, Michael <michael.salter@gmail.com
>
> Hi Charlie,
> I watched my instrument rebuilder take my 100 speedometer apart
> and he removed the needle and then the face before taking the
> mechanism out of the case.
> He had a special took for removing the needle...
> I think that's the approved procedure.
> Michael S
> BN1 #174
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Sent: â??9/â??02/â??2016 8:12 a.m.
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Speedometer
>
> I'm trying to get the guts out of my speedometer to clean and oil
> it. The
> needle rarely gets over 20 MPH. I can remove the knurled knob from
> the trip
> odometer stem but it looks like I have to also remove the stem.
> Can anyone
> please tell me how to do it? Thanks.
>
> Regards,
>
> Charlie Schott
>
>
>
>
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<div class="moz-cite-prefix">I use two long screwdrivers to lift of
the needle of a gauge/clock/speedo. Clamp the speedometer housing
securely, twist the bezel and take it of together with the glass,
put the tips of the screwdrivers under the centre of the needle
opposite each other and use the rim of the speedo housing as a
resting point while gently levering of the needle. This way there
is no danger to damage the face although it is wise to cover it
with a piece of cardboard, just in case.<br>
As mentioned before only lightly dust the face as the white paint
can dissolve in water when old.<br>
Putting back the needle in the right position is easy as there is
a small white dot on the "wrong" side of the resting pin. The
needle should point to this dot when fitting/fitted. When the
needle is fixed in its proper position just lift the tip of the
needle gently over the resting pin to the left hand side.<br>
Use some clock oil very very sparingly to lubricate the pivots of
the needle assembly and cup only. Use 3-in-1 oil to lubricate the
speedo cable receptacle. Clean out the outer speedo cable as good
as you can using e.g. petrol/white spirit etc. wipe the inner
cable clean and sparingly grease the inner cable only using multi
purpose grease or graphite/molibdenium-disulfide grease.<br>
However be aware that if a speedo stops working properly it is
usually time for a complete overhaul/rebuild.<br>
Kees Oudesluijs<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Op 9-2-2016 om 0:57 schreef HealeyRick:<br>
</div>
<blockquote
cite="mid:CAGfzsZf-hcN4n0cOVhgH=p+cpHp6wSBQEdQfsQDpy2j_LHThPw@mail.gmail.com"
type="cite">
<meta http-equiv="Context-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
<div dir="ltr">Michael is correct. The needle and face have to
come off first. I have a "special tool" for removal of the
needle as well.  18G-999 "Common Dinner Fork". First cut a "V"
shaped slot into a cardboard index card. Insert the card
between the needle and the speedo face so that the point of the
V is under the needle center. The card is to protect the
surface of the gauge when using the "special tool." Â Insert the
fork so the space between the middle tines are under the center
part of the needle and carefully lever (prise) the needle up.Â
Work around the needle a bit at a time, moving the card as
needed to protect the instrument face. If you try to lever just
from one side, it will cock the needle on the pin and make it
difficult to withdraw. Even still, they can be difficult to
take off. Then remove the two tiny screws holding the gauge
face and remove the face. From there, tilt the gauge body so
the tripmeter shaft clears the hole, whilst pushing in on the
shaft to make it as short as possible. Resist the urge to do
anything to clean the gauge face other than dusting with a soft
brush as by now the paint surface is quite fragile and you may
end up removing your markings. Return special took 18G-999 to
the dishwasher before SWMBO finds out.
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Best of luck,</div>
<div>Rick Neville</div>
</div>
<div class="gmail_extra"><br>
<div class="gmail_quote">On Mon, Feb 8, 2016 at 11:21 AM,
Michael <span dir="ltr"><<a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="mailto:michael.salter@gmail.com"
target="_blank">michael.salter@gmail.com</a>></span>
wrote:<br>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote">
<div>
<div>
<div>Hi Charlie,<br>
I watched my instrument rebuilder take my 100
speedometer apart and he removed the needle and then
the face before taking the mechanism out of the case.<br>
He had a special took for removing the needle... <br>
I think that's the approved procedure.<br>
Michael S<br>
BN1 #174</div>
</div>
<div dir="ltr">
<hr><span>From: </span><span><a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="mailto:schottc@knology.net" target="_blank">Charlie
Schott</a></span><br>
<span>Sent: </span><span>â??9/â??02/â??2016 8:12 a.m.</span><br>
<span>To: </span><span><a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="mailto:steveg@abrazosdata.com" target="_blank">Steve
B. Gerow</a>; <a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"
target="_blank">healeys@autox.team.net</a></span><br>
<span>Subject: </span><span>Re: [Healeys] Speedometer</span><br>
<br>
</div>
I'm trying to get the guts out of my speedometer to clean
and oil it. The <br>
needle rarely gets over 20 MPH. I can remove the knurled
knob from the trip <br>
odometer stem but it looks like I have to also remove the
stem. Can anyone <br>
please tell me how to do it? Thanks.<br>
<br>
Regards,<br>
<br>
Charlie Schott<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
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