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White spirit I think is similar to oil based turps, there is a problem
translating these items from Dutch. It is not methylated spirits or
de-naturalised ethanol. This is not as effective but can be used.
Thinner is another possibility, but is rather unpleasant to work with
and needs a very thorough drying before painting.
There is water soluble PU lacquer and there is solvent based PU lacquer.
The water based stuff dries very quickly, does not darken the wood, does
not discolour after time, hardly smells, has a very low solvent content,
is more environmental friendly but is does not last very well and can be
a bit brittle. The solvent based stuff takes a few days to fully harden,
flows better and is more durable and tough. It does not crack easily but
it does darken the wood and after time it will get yellowish/darker.
Kees Oudesluijs
Op 31-12-2015 om 23:43 schreef Doug Barker:
>
> HELLO
>
> I was just thinking of doing mine also so this is good timing:
>
> My wheel is I believe aMotta but much lighter wood
>
> Please define ?White spirits-possible Methal Hydrate?
>
> Also PU solvent based PU?
>
> Thanks-everything else I agree with
>
> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of
> *Oudesluys
> *Sent:* Thursday, December 31, 2015 12:43 PM
> *To:* healeys@autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Refinish steering wheel
>
> Of what I can see the steering wheel does look very nice and
> patinated. I would not do anything to it apart from cleaning it with
> white spirits on a rough cloth or kitchen abrasive sponge and rubbing
> in some linseed oil.
> Look for remnants of lacquer on the inside of the aluminium. It may
> have been coated only with a wax or oil, e.g. linseed oil if you
> cannot find anything.
>
>
> Depending on the age of the wheel it could be coated with acrylic
> paint. If that is the case this must be completely removed before
> repainting.
> Start with degreasing the wood very carefully and thoroughly with
> white spirits. Sand very lightly with 320 grade sand paper until the
> colour is even and all lacquer is removed but remove as little
> wood/aluminium material as possible. Remove all the dust carefully.
> Repaint using a soft round brush with PU solvent based clear lacquer
> (as used on boats or wood floors) with about 4-5 coats or more at well
> over 20C so the lacquer will flow evenly. Let every coat dry
> thoroughly for a few days and sand lightly with 400 grade in between
> the coats. I prefer to coat wooden wheels using a satin finish, but
> others prefer gloss.
> Another method is applying many very very thin coats of raw linseed
> oil and leave every coat to dry for at least a week at summer
> temperatures.
> Generally mahogany plywood or solid mahogany is used but walnut can be
> used as well. Lighter woods are also used. Yours looks like mahogany ply.
> It is a good idea to try out the process first on an old battered
> Moto-Lita wheel (same manufacturer).
>
> I have done many steering wheels using PU solvent based lacquer and
> also using raw linseed oil. I prefer the latter method. The drawback
> may be that in the beginning your hands will smell of linseed oil.
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
> Op 31-12-2015 om 17:48 schreef Chris Scholz:
>
> I am finishing restoration of my BN4. Any ideas on how to improve the
> looks of my wooden steering wheel? The wood is in very good shape. I would
> like to lighten it up some, but am nervous to start sanding it since the
> metal rivets would be more exposed. Any idea what kind of wood they used?
> Are these maple? I know they are not original. I see the original wheels
> were black plastic.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
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>
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>
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> -----
>
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
>
> Gecontroleerd door AVG -www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
>
> Versie: 2016.0.7294 / Virusdatabase: 4489/11293 - datum van uitgifte:
> 12/31/15
>
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
> Versie: 2016.0.7294 / Virusdatabase: 4489/11296 - datum van uitgifte:
> 12/31/15
>
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<div class="moz-cite-prefix">White spirit I think is similar to oil
based turps, there is a problem translating these items from
Dutch. It is not methylated spirits or de-naturalised ethanol.
This is not as effective but can be used. Thinner is another
possibility, but is rather unpleasant to work with and needs a
very thorough drying before painting. <br>
There is water soluble PU lacquer and there is solvent based PU
lacquer. The water based stuff dries very quickly, does not darken
the wood, does not discolour after time, hardly smells, has a very
low solvent content, is more environmental friendly but is does
not last very well and can be a bit brittle. The solvent based
stuff takes a few days to fully harden, flows better and is more
durable and tough. It does not crack easily but it does darken the
wood and after time it will get yellowish/darker.<br>
<br>
Kees Oudesluijs<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Op 31-12-2015 om 23:43 schreef Doug Barker:<br>
</div>
<blockquote cite="mid:000001d1441c$ab9cad40$02d607c0$@videotron.ca"
type="cite">
<meta http-equiv="Context-Type" content="text/html;
charset=US-ASCII">
<meta name="Generator" content="Microsoft Word 14 (filtered
medium)">
<div class="WordSection1">
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>HELLO</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>I was just thinking of doing mine
also so this is good timing:</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>My wheel is I believe aMotta but much
lighter wood</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Please define ?White spirits-possible
Methal Hydrate?</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Also PU solvent based PU?</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Thanks-everything else I agree
with</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
<div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b><span>From:</span></b><span> Healeys
[<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net";>mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>]
<b>On Behalf Of
</b>Oudesluys<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Thursday, December 31, 2015 12:43 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net";>healeys@autox.team.net</a><br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Refinish steering wheel</span></p>
</div>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal"> </p>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Of what I can see the steering wheel does
look very nice and patinated. I would not do anything to it
apart from cleaning it with white spirits on a rough cloth
or kitchen abrasive sponge and rubbing in some linseed oil.<br>
Look for remnants of lacquer on the inside of the
aluminium. It may have been coated only with a wax or oil,
e.g. linseed oil if you cannot find anything.<br>
<br>
<br>
Depending on the age of the wheel it could be coated with
acrylic paint. If that is the case this must be completely
removed before repainting.<br>
Start with degreasing the wood very carefully and thoroughly
with white spirits. Sand very lightly with 320 grade sand
paper until the colour is even and all lacquer is removed
but remove as little wood/aluminium material as possible.
Remove all the dust carefully. Repaint using a soft round
brush with PU solvent based clear lacquer (as used on boats
or wood floors) with about 4-5 coats or more at well over
20C so the lacquer will flow evenly. Let every coat dry
thoroughly for a few days and sand lightly with 400 grade in
between the coats. I prefer to coat wooden wheels using a
satin finish, but others prefer gloss.<br>
Another method is applying many very very thin coats of raw
linseed oil and leave every coat to dry for at least a week
at summer temperatures.<br>
Generally mahogany plywood or solid mahogany is used but
walnut can be used as well. Lighter woods are also used.
Yours looks like mahogany ply.<br>
It is a good idea to try out the process first on an old
battered Moto-Lita wheel (same manufacturer).<br>
<br>
I have done many steering wheels using PU solvent based
lacquer and also using raw linseed oil. I prefer the latter
method. The drawback may be that in the beginning your hands
will smell of linseed oil.<br>
<br>
Kees Oudesluijs<br>
<br>
Op 31-12-2015 om 17:48 schreef Chris Scholz:</p>
</div>
<blockquote>
<pre>I am finishing restoration of my BN4. Any ideas on how to
improve the looks of my wooden steering wheel? The wood is in very good shape.
I would like to lighten it up some, but am nervous to start sanding it since
the metal rivets would be more exposed. Any idea what kind of wood they used?
Are these maple? I know they are not original. I see the original wheels were
black plastic. </pre>
<pre> </pre>
<p class="MsoNormal"><br>
<br>
<br>
</p>
<pre>_______________________________________________</pre>
<pre>Support Team.Net <a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="http://www.team.net/donate.html";>http://www.team.net/donate.html</a></pre>
<pre>Suggested annual donation $12.75</pre>
<pre>Archive: <a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="http://www.team.net/archive";>http://www.team.net/archive</a></pre>
<pre>Forums: <a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="http://www.team.net/forums";>http://www.team.net/forums</a></pre>
<pre> </pre>
<pre><a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="mailto:Healeys@autox.team.net";>Healeys@autox.team.net</a></pre>
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<pre> </pre>
<pre>Unsubscribe/Manage: <a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl";>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl</a></pre>
<pre> </pre>
<p class="MsoNormal"><br>
<br>
<br>
</p>
<pre>-----</pre>
<pre>Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.</pre>
<pre>Gecontroleerd door AVG - <a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="http://www.avg.com";>www.avg.com</a></pre>
<pre>Versie: 2016.0.7294 / Virusdatabase: 4489/11293 - datum van
uitgifte: 12/31/15</pre>
</blockquote>
<p class="MsoNormal"> </p>
</div>
<p class="">Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.<br>
Gecontroleerd door AVG - <a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="http://www.avg.com";>www.avg.com</a><br>
Versie: 2016.0.7294 / Virusdatabase: 4489/11296 - datum van
uitgifte: 12/31/15</p>
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