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I would not be surprised at all if ECU's from nearby modern cars can be
affected.
Kees Oudesluijs
Michael Oritt schreef op 4-6-2015 om 15:37:
> What Michael says is true.
>
> Here's another one that happened with my Elva Courier race car: Once
> while getting ready for a race weekend I switched distributor caps
> from one that had suppression leads to another that solid core
> wires. As soon as I started the engine the electro-magnetic field
> managed to turn my video cam, which was hard-wired into the car's
> 12VDC, off and on randomly.
>
> As an experiment I powered the cam from a separate battery and even
> though it was about 10 feet from the car with no wires whatsoever
> connecting it to the car the electromagnetic field created by the
> ignition system still took control of the cam.
>
> As soon as I switched back to suppression leads the issue went away.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
> On Thu, Jun 4, 2015 at 8:18 AM, Michael Salter
>
> Although I use them myself I do have one caution regarding the use
> of solid core ignition wires.
> As Michael Oritt discovered in Targa Newfoundland they can play
> havoc with electronics. We encountered problems with our "wired"
> intercom and Terratrip rally meter which immediately vanished when
> we reverted to suppressor leads.
> I have also found that my cell phone will not receive messages or
> even do GPS navigation while the engine is running in #174 which
> has completely original 62 year old Lucas ignition components.
> Michael S
>
> On Thu, Jun 4, 2015 at 7:20 AM, Simon Lachlan
> <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk
>
> Not 100% sure what you mean by â??the advance curves are
> retainedâ??. In the 123 you can choose your advance curve.
>
> And Iâ??m sure one of the built in choice approximates to the
> original.
>
> And yes(!), I too have a complete Lucas dizzie in my boot. The
> correct rotor arm, decent old Champion plug caps, bumble bee
> copper wire. Fitted with a Pertronix. Points also carried on
> longer expeditions. Belt and braces!!
>
> Simon
>
> *From:*Alan Seigrist [mailto:healey.nut@gmail.com
> *Sent:* 04 June 2015 07:33
> *To:* Simon Lachlan
> *Cc:* Bob Spidell; Healey list
>
>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Missing under Load
>
> The advantage with Pertonix over 123 is the advance curves are
> retained and also if your pertronix does fry, keeping points
> in the boot is easy for a backup. I have a 123 in my A90 and
> I keep a full lucas dizzy with attached cam driveshaft in the
> boot, just in case. Call me strange.
>
> On Thu, Jun 4, 2015 at 1:42 PM, Simon Lachlan
> <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk
>
> Or get a 123Ignition distributor.
>
> Simon
>
> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
> Spidell
> *Sent:* 04 June 2015 06:09
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Missing under Load
>
> Agree across-the-board. Had same problem with suppressor
> wires; installed copper stranded wires and no problem in 60K
> miles or so.
>
>
>
> re: "Strongly suggested I install points instead of the
> Petronics." Why? Does he recommend blood-letting and
> trepanning for headaches? I know Jeff is an acknowledged
> expert, but disagree with the points recommendation. Name a
> modern manufacturer--they of the 100K mile tuneups--that
> recommends points? Have (probably) 80K miles on
> Pertronix--with OEM Lucas cap and stranded wires--with no
> ignition issues (save the occasional well-known bad rotor).
> If you like changing points every 5K miles, fine, but it's not
> the solution to every ignition problem.
>
> You need: OEM Lucas distributor cap (if you can find one),
> stranded copper wire secondary wires, OEM Lucas suppressor
> plug caps, good plugs, and a quality rotor.
>
> Bob
>
> On 6/3/2015 6:33 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:
>
> If you are running suppressed modern wires into your
> standard Lucas cap, you can have huge problems, as the
> graphite type materials they use in these don't like
> connecting to the screw connector in the Lucas cap . You
> need to use metal core wires, such as bumble bee wire.
>
> Also did you check distributor shaft wobble? If your
> dizzy bushes are worn, and you have excessive wobble, you
> could also be having similar problems.
>
> Lastly, check internal wires/insulating washers in the
> dizzy make sure it is all kosher.
>
> On Thu, Jun 4, 2015 at 9:24 AM, R. Price Lindsay
>
> Took the BJ8 out today. Changed the plug wire to #6 (there
> was a visible spark last night). The car struggled big
> time Had to change rotors every 3 miles in order to get
> the car home. Driving along and all of a sudden backfire,
> black smoke, nothing. Changed the rotor (it was noticeably
> hot) and got another 2 or 3 miles out of it. Looked
> tonight in the dark and the visible spark from number 6
> plug was not there. Talked to Jeff with Advanced
> Distributors and he suggested it was plug wires. Strongly
> suggested I install points instead of the Petronics. At
> his suggestion, I checked the ohm reading on the plug
> wires and they checked out OK. Still wondering if it
> could be bad gas, I did add a product called â??Heat.â??
> Supposed to absorb any water that may be in the gas tank.
> Not much help, so far.
>
> Iâ??m waiting for the plug wires and distributor cap from
> Moss Motors to show up to install them. Hope that helps
> but not really convinced itâ??s the solution.
>
> Do you guys have any words of wisdom for me?
>
> Price Lindsay
> 67 BJ8
>
>
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>
>
>
> --
> /If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem./
>
>
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<html>
<head>
<meta content="text/html; charset=utf-8" http-equiv="Content-Type">
</head>
<body bgcolor="#FFFFFF" text="#000000">
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">I would not be surprised at all if
ECU's from nearby modern cars can be affected.<br>
Kees Oudesluijs<br>
<br>
<br>
Michael Oritt schreef op 4-6-2015 om 15:37:<br>
</div>
<blockquote
cite="mid:CAPTa0B4Yqmei0M0R4pG3qniF8xcWFXY6AT0UhSqrJCaTwOyOwQ@mail.gmail.com"
type="cite">
<meta http-equiv="Context-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
<div dir="ltr">
<div class="gmail_default">What Michael says is true.</div>
<div class="gmail_default"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default">Here's another one that happened with
my Elva Courier race car: Â Once while getting ready for a race
weekend I switched distributor caps from one that had
suppression leads to another that  solid core wires. As soon
as I started the engine the electro-magnetic field managed to
turn my video cam, which was hard-wired into the car's 12VDC,
off and on randomly. Â </div>
<div class="gmail_default"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default">As an experiment I powered the cam
from a separate battery and even though it was about 10 feet
from the car with no wires whatsoever connecting it to the car
the electromagnetic field created by the ignition system still
took control of the cam. Â </div>
<div class="gmail_default"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default">As soon as I switched back to
suppression leads the issue went away.</div>
<div class="gmail_default"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default">Best--Michael Oritt</div>
</div>
<div class="gmail_extra"><br>
<div class="gmail_quote">On Thu, Jun 4, 2015 at 8:18 AM, Michael
Salter <span dir="ltr"><<a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="mailto:michaelsalter@gmail.com";
target="_blank">michaelsalter@gmail.com</a>></span>
wrote:<br>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr">
<div class="gmail_default">Although I use them myself I do
have one caution regarding the use of solid core
ignition wires.<br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default">As Michael Oritt discovered in
Targa Newfoundland they can play havoc with electronics.
We encountered problems with our "wired" intercom and
Terratrip rally meter which immediately vanished when we
reverted to suppressor leads.<br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default">I have also found that my cell
phone will not receive messages or even do GPS
navigation while the engine is running in #174 which has
completely original 62 year old Lucas ignition
components.<br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default">Michael S<br>
</div>
</div>
<div class="gmail_extra"><br>
<div class="gmail_quote"><span class="">On Thu, Jun 4,
2015 at 7:20 AM, Simon Lachlan <span dir="ltr"><<a
moz-do-not-send="true"
href="mailto:simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk";
target="_blank">simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk</a>></span>
wrote:<br>
</span>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote">
<div lang="EN-GB">
<div><span class="">
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Not 100% sure what
you mean by â??the advance curves are
retainedâ??. In the 123 you can choose your
advance curve.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span> And Iâ??m sure one of
the built in choice approximates to the
original.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>And yes(!), I too
have a complete Lucas dizzie in my boot. The
correct rotor arm, decent old Champion plug
caps, bumble bee copper wire. Fitted with a
Pertronix. Points also carried on longer
expeditions. Belt and braces!!</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Simon</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Â </span></p>
</span>
<div><span class="">
<p class="MsoNormal"><b><span
lang="EN-US">From:</span></b><span
lang="EN-US"> Alan Seigrist [mailto:<a
moz-do-not-send="true"
href="mailto:healey.nut@gmail.com";
target="_blank">healey.nut@gmail.com</a>]
<br>
<b>Sent:</b> 04 June 2015 07:33<br>
<b>To:</b> Simon Lachlan<br>
<b>Cc:</b> Bob Spidell; Healey list</span></p>
</span>
<div>
<div><br>
<div>
<div class="h5"><b>Subject:</b> Re:
[Healeys] Missing under Load</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div>
<div class="h5">
<div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Â </p>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">The advantage with
Pertonix over 123 is the advance
curves are retained and also if your
pertronix does fry, keeping points in
the boot is easy for a backup. I have
a 123 in my A90 and I keep a full
lucas dizzy with attached cam
driveshaft in the boot, just in case.Â
Call me strange.</p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Â </p>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">On Thu, Jun 4,
2015 at 1:42 PM, Simon Lachlan <<a
moz-do-not-send="true"
href="mailto:simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk";
target="_blank">simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk</a>>
wrote:</p>
<div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Or get
a 123Ignition distributor.</span></p>
<p
class="MsoNormal"><span>Simon</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Â </span></p>
<div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b><span
lang="EN-US">From:</span></b><span
lang="EN-US"> Healeys
[mailto:<a
moz-do-not-send="true"
href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net";
target="_blank">healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>]
<b>On Behalf Of </b>Bob
Spidell<br>
<b>Sent:</b> 04 June 2015
06:09<br>
<b>To:</b> <a
moz-do-not-send="true"
href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net";
target="_blank">healeys@autox.team.net</a><br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re:
[Healeys] Missing under
Load</span></p>
</div>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Â </p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Agree
across-the-board.  Had same
problem with suppressor wires;
installed copper stranded wires
and no problem in 60K miles or
so.</p>
<div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><br>
<br>
re: "Strongly suggested I
install points instead of
the Petronics."  Why? Does
he recommend blood-letting
and trepanning for
headaches? I know Jeff is
an acknowledged expert, but
disagree with the points
recommendation. Name a
modern manufacturer--they of
the 100K mile tuneups--that
recommends points? Have
(probably) 80K miles on
Pertronix--with OEM Lucas
cap and stranded wires--with
no ignition issues (save the
occasional well-known bad
rotor). If you like
changing points every 5K
miles, fine, but it's not
the solution to every
ignition problem.<br>
<br>
You need: OEM Lucas
distributor cap (if you can
find one), stranded copper
wire secondary wires, OEM
Lucas suppressor plug caps,
good plugs, and a quality
rotor.<br>
<br>
Bob</p>
</div>
</div>
<div>
<div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">On
6/3/2015 6:33 PM, Alan
Seigrist wrote:</p>
</div>
<blockquote>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">If
you are running
suppressed modern wires
into your standard Lucas
cap, you can have huge
problems, as the
graphite type materials
they use in these don't
like connecting to the
screw connector in the
Lucas cap . You need to
use metal core wires,
such as bumble bee wire.
</p>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Â </p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Also
did you check
distributor shaft
wobble? If your dizzy
bushes are worn, and
you have excessive
wobble, you could also
be having similar
problems.</p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Â </p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Lastly,
check internal
wires/insulating
washers in the dizzy
make sure it is all
kosher.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Â </p>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">On
Thu, Jun 4, 2015 at
9:24 AM, R. Price
Lindsay <<a
moz-do-not-send="true"
href="mailto:050.rpl@gmail.com"; target="_blank">050.rpl@gmail.com</a>>
wrote:</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Took
the BJ8 out today.Â
Changed the plug wire
to #6 (there was a
visible spark last
night). The car
struggled big timeÂ
Had to change rotors
every 3 miles in order
to get the car home.Â
Driving along and all
of a sudden backfire,
black smoke, nothing.Â
Changed the rotor (it
was noticeably hot)
and got another 2 or 3
miles out of it.Â
Looked tonight in the
dark and the visible
spark from number 6
plug was not there.Â
Talked to Jeff with
Advanced Distributors
and he suggested it
was plug wires.Â
Strongly suggested I
install points instead
of the Petronics. At
his suggestion, I
checked the ohm
reading on the plug
wires and they checked
out OK. Still
wondering if it could
be bad gas, I did add
a product called
â??Heat.â?? Supposed to
absorb any water that
may be in the gas
tank. Not much help,
so far.<br>
<br>
Iâ??m waiting for the
plug wires and
distributor cap from
Moss Motors to show up
to install them. Hope
that helps but not
really convinced itâ??s
the solution.<br>
<br>
Do you guys have any
words of wisdom for
me?<br>
<br>
Price Lindsay<br>
67 BJ8</p>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Â </p>
</div>
</blockquote>
<p class="MsoNormal">Â </p>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><br>
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<br>
-- <br>
<div>
<div dir="ltr">
<div>
<div dir="ltr"><i><span>If you can't fix it with a
hammer, you've got an electrical
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<br>
</div>
</div>
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