Don't mean to hijack the post, but I have been wondering how you evaluate a
clutch disc (drive plate) to determine if it can or could be reused. I am not
a cheapskate, but I know nothing about when this particular disc was
installed. It may be just fine, don't know.
I assume you measure the width of the friction pads but I don't know the
appropriate specs.
Michael, can you or someone else advise me on this?
Lin
Sent from my iPad
On Jun 4, 2013, at 5:45 PM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com> wrote:
> Hi Gary,
> I have been struggling with exactly the same issue with the new
> (aftermarket) clutch that I installed in my Subaru "winter beater".
> The disc was considerably thicker than that which I removed and from the
> time it was installed it has been "hanging up" and making the engagement of
> reverse (non synchronized) almost impossible without turning the engine
> off, engaging reverse then restarting the engine with the clutch depressed
> completely to the floor.
> The problem is, as Kees pointed out, that there is more compressibility in
> your new disc and the standard Healey clutch operating mechanism probably
> does not deliver sufficient movement at the release bearing to accommodate
> that compressibility.
> Although you can engage your synchronized 2nd gear to get the innards of
> the gearbox stationary without the gnashing of gears that can actually be
> pretty hard on the sychromesh if you have to do it for a prolonged period.
> Grinding it into reverse or 1st is a definite no-no. Little pieces of
> hardened gear teeth will chip off as you do that and they will eventually
> find their way into the gearbox bearings and ruin them.
> Assuming that you have ensured that the clutch is delivering a full stroke
> you really should bite the bullet and change the disc for something with
> less compressibility.
> BTW do check for wear on the fork and clevis pin of the master cylinder at
> the pedal, that can make quite a difference. I wrote a little article on
> that which you can read here. <http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=82>
> I have now done some 5000 km in the Subaru, without taking my own advice I
> might add, and I'm now able to get it into reverse without having to turn
> the engine off first then starting it in gear so I can back up.
> I should also mention that changing the length of the slave cylinder push
> rod may fix the problem BUT lengthening that rod in an effort to do so will
> probably result in there being a preload on the release bearing such that
> it is forced against the pressure plate at all times resulting in premature
> wear of both the bearing and the bearing face on the pressure plate.
>
> Michael S
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