Had similar problem with mine. Futzed with if for a few months--moving needle,
etc.--then finally sent it to Morris at
West Valley Instruments; couldn't be happier with the results (also found
almost 20psi of oil pressure at idle I had
never had before).
Not cheap--about $170 all told--but well worth it. Also, the fluid/gas line
from the sender will be different if you
still have the original gauge. My original had a metal cloth-like protective
sleeve--wouldn't protect much--and the
refurb will have a wound wire 'sleeve' that is somewhat less flexible and
slightly larger diameter.
Bob
On 5/24/2013 7:11 AM, Michael Salter wrote:
> Hi Derek,
> If you are talking about your Healey's temperature gauge it is entirely
> mechanical and has no electrical input other than the light.
> If the gauge works but reads low I believe that the most likely cause is
> that the needle has moved on its axle or the gears on the quadrant have
> jumped inside the gauge which cam happen if the bulb is seriously
> overheated.
> Either way brain surgery is required..
>
> Michael S
>
>
> On Fri, May 24, 2013 at 9:54 AM, Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> My temperature gauge is only showing about 85 degrees when tested in
>> boiling water. I understand that these gauges need a steady 10 volts to
>> work correctly. What is it that regulates the supply of 10 volts? My car
>> now has an alternator so no external voltage regulator.
>>
>> Derek
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>>
>
--
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Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@comcast.net
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