May I add something here.
On front drum brake big A-Hs that fit Girling units, the adjusters allow
the pistons to remain part way up the cylinders. The shoes will
therefore not push the pistons fully in. This sometimes leaves air in
the cylinders. The fluid can therefore pass straight from the input pipe
to the outlet pipe or bleed nipple. In this case it is necessary to
fully slacken the adjusters and allow the pistons to be fully pushed
home in the cylinders.
Regards
> Sometimes that pedal action means that the shoes need adjustment.
>The first push gets them close to the drum, the second gets them
>touching. The rear cylinders don't move very much. Then, after a bit,
>the springs will have pulled them too far away again.
> Peter C
>--
>At 08:55 AM 11/9/2011, mark lapierre wrote:
>>My books all say to start from the bleeder that is furthest away from the
>>cylinder. Also, many times my brakes have gotten better when they sat for a
>>few days after bleeding.
>>
>>Mark
>>
>>--- On Wed, 11/9/11, Richard Kahn <tahoehealey at hotmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>>From: Richard Kahn <tahoehealey at hotmail.com>
>>Subject: [Healeys] re-bleeding brakes
>>To: healeys at autox.team.net
>>Date: Wednesday, November 9, 2011, 12:37 AM
>>
>>
>>I spent the day replacing the brake master cylinder (and clutch too). I'm
>>getting good braking with a little travel on the first pressure. The next
>>push
>>gives less pedal travel with again good braking. I need to re-bleed, I'm
>>guessing.While bleeding the right rear, I had a leak at the right front
>>wheel.
>>Is that a good guess as to where to begin? Or back at the master cylinder?
>>Thanks for all the earlier advice.
>>Rich Kahn
--
John Harper
|