This thread made me recall when I tore my engine down in 2004 because I
suspected a bad main bearing from a poor rebuild when the car was restored
prior to being purchased by the previous owner. Not only did I find bad
bearings (the crank pulley was about 10/1,000s out of round), but the nuts
on the rod bolts were tack welded to the caps!
Bruce
Brea, CA
1960 BN7
-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of I Erbs
Sent: Sunday, November 20, 2011 12:09 PM
To: john spaur
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] connecting rod bolts
VERY important to have the right bolts,. catastrophic engine failure could
result. This is not apart you want to make due with. The cost of the correct
bolt is far less than a rebuild.
Contact the Nocks or other vendors for the bolts NFI.
We had a collection of bent rods on the wall of the shop from folks who used
the wrong bolts
On Sun, Nov 20, 2011 at 11:09 AM, john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> I am working on the engine and have realized that the connecting rod
> bolts might be the original ones. I have read that they can stretch
> and should be replaced. However, it does not appear that they are
> available for a 1962 engine. I noticed that the Moss catalog lists
> ones for a BJ7 and BJ8 with the difference between those and the BT7
> engine being the length of the locking pin.
>
> Should I consider replacing the bolts (very expensive)?
>
> Thank you,
> John
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--
Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
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