I agree with your analysis & that is what we thought the problem was too. It
is true that if he lets the car cool down when sitting or if he can get it up
to a decent speed for a long enough time while it is bucking it will
eventually clear up. But this is almost impossible because of the
extreme/serious bucking. However, as I said, his fuel line runs down the right
side of the frame & across to the carbs in the stock BJ7 location. The HD8s
including intake manifold, heat shield insulating spacers are all stock. The
fuel pump should run continuously if the fuel is boiling in the float
chambers. It is not. The car is not running hot. He is using premium fuel & we
have drained the tank & re-filled with other brands of fuel. We have checked
the entire fuel system for restrictions, clogged filters faulty pickup tubes,
etc. This only happens to his car. When we are traveling in a group (same
conditions) & it does not happen to any of the other cars including several
BJ7s & BJ8s.
Currently, I am leaning towards the sticky valve guide theory. However, I do
not know how to verify this theory. Any suggestions?
Gary
-----Original Message-----
From: Per Schoerner <healeyguy@bredband.net>
To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Nov 21, 2011 7:08 am
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ruff running, bucking car
Hi
eilds
Now, this happens because the fuel boils in the float bowls and fuel
ines closest to the engine. After running for half a mile or so the
ngine starts to run normally again, doesn't it? This is because the
ind cools down the engine compartment again. Nothing you did changed
nything really, apart maybe from changing the needles. The only remedy
n this case is to keep the fuel cold while the engine is stopped. Have
een people installing electrical fans that blow air on the fuel lines
nd carbs, don't know if it helps. It puzzles me that the temp gauge
idn't show more.
his is not related to an engine that runs good when cold and bad when hot.
Per in Sweden
warthodson@aol.com skrev 2011-11-20 22:07:
This discussion is very interesting to me because a friend had almost
exactly
the same problem on a newly restored, no corners cut, BJ7. The car is stock
except that the engine was rebuilt to BJ8 specifications including the cam&
carbs. The engine does not ping on premium fuel. We believe the compression
is
under 10:1.
His car would run great when it was cold& even when warmed up, but if he
stopped for a few minutes (like at a gas station or convenience store) it
restarted fine but would run rough& buck so bad it was almost undriveable.
The water temp. was only 180 degrees& this was verified with a thermometer.
I
know what this sounds like, but wait. The fuel line is in the stock
location.
The carb spacers& head shield are all installed as original. The car does
not
have a header. We double checked the timing, readjusted the carbs, retorqued
the head, checked the valve adjustment, checked for air leaks, electrical
wiring issues, did a compression test& a leak down test, etc. Over a period
of time we replaced (one at a time) the spark plugs, the fuel pump, the
coil,
the distributor cap, ignition wires, the Pertronics, the entire distributor,
the carbs with another set of recently rebuild carbs& a different intake
manifold. None of which improved the situation. After we ran out of ideas,
the
car went to a shop where it spent almost two months. The shop eventually
replaced the stock BJ8 needles with the rich BJ8 needles& the problem seems
to have improved slightly but is not gone. I will get a copy of the shops
written report& post a summary of it hear in the next few days.
Gary Hodson
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