One detail that I forgot to add is to leave the castle nut on the stub
axel (loosely) to protect the threads.
Peter Schauss
1963 BJ7
1980 MGB
On Tue, Aug 9, 2011 at 4:00 PM, R. Price Lindsay <rplindsay at comcast.net>
wrote:
> Thank you - great idea.
>
> Price Lindsay
>
> 630-841-6300 Cell
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Aug 9, 2011, at 12:28 PM, Peter Schauss <rpschauss at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> I used a small block of wood, something hard like oak. It should be
>> long enough so that when
>> rested against the end of the stub axel it stick out beyond the end of
>> the hub but short enough so
>> that you can start the knock-off on the threads of the hub. Tighten
>> the knock-off and the hub should
>> come loose.
>>
>> HTH,
>> Peter Schauss
>> 1963 BJ7
>> 1980 MGB
>>
>> On Tue, Aug 9, 2011 at 12:29 PM, R. Price Lindsay <rplindsay at comcast.net>
wrote:
>>> Over the weekend the front left bearings went out (lots of noise metal
>>> shavings). I have removed the castle nut and rotor bolts but cannot get
the
>>> hub off. It wiggles but won't pull off. The book says to use a hub
extractor.
>>> Is this necessary or can I use a lever of some kind?
>>>
>>> Price Lindsay
>>> 67 BJ8
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