Kees, and Tadek ,
The one thing to remember is that powder-coat, aka powder paint, is just
that PAINT, that is applied dry (electrostatically) instead of wet
(chemically). But paint none the less. It is in fact the dry process that
*can* make the powdercoat process superior to wet paint applications, IF it
is done correctly. As such in a wet environment if a painted surface is
susceptible to corrosion so would a powder-coated surface.
The great part about powder-coat is that it will get into and cover areas
that regular paint could never get into. It is actually sucked into small
crevices and areas that an aerosol paint could never reach, and after all,
it's is these uncovered areas where corrosion first takes hold and gets
underneath the paint, causing the damage that Kees refers to taking hold.
Look at it this way if traditional paint is poorly or improperly applied
corrosion will start sooner than later... the same can be said for
improperly applied powder-coating.
Possibly the Powder-coating processes where you live are not the same as the
one I use. Trust me , I will NOT use most of the local powder-coating,
since they are basically catering to large industrial applications.
My powder-coater specializes in high end applications not old lawn and patio
furniture...
- The parts are bead blasted clean, which is of course the standard starting
process,
- then phosphate coated, a process that most other vendors do not do,
- and then the powder is applied to a cool part rather than being heated
prior, and then it is baked on. This enables a much thinner coating coating
that looks exactly like a quality aerosol paint rather than a too thick
dipped paint job.
- finally they use a quality powder. And as I've previously stated they
sell matching aerosol paint cans in the various gloss levels.
I pay more but the results are nothing less than spectacular.
As too Tadek's statement about "looking closely and peeling away the loose
bits... here appears to be the problem. My powder-coating looks as good and
or better than chemically applied paint and there are NO loose bits. Guys
this is NOT porcelain enamel or some other complete different, or exotic
process different than paint. I have been hearing this stuff for 20 years
now and from folks that mistakenly think that powder-coating is some
completely different process rather than what it really is... simply a
better way to apply traditional paint. And Tadek, don't tell me that you
are going to drive you 100 on slushy, salty roads this winter.
Look at all of the industrial applications where powder-coating process is
now used, not only for ease of manufacturing but for durability. Finally, I
cannot think of a better part to power-coat than the convertible top frame.
My restorer friend, who literally does 20 plus cars a year swears by this on
his top frames, mostly for classic Jaguars, Porches, etc...
Finally I have to keep reminding myself where Kees lives... the Netherlands,
and as such he's one fat fingered little Dutch boy away from being under
salt water ;-) so I can understand his concern about moisture and
corrosion. And to those who don't get my humorous reference, read this
link...
http://www.pantheon.org/articles/l/little_dutch_boy.html
Cheers,
Curt...
from sunny dry Southern California :-)
On Sat, Aug 13, 2011 at 5:38 AM, Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>wrote:
> Fair's fair Kees.
> The discussion was about hood bows. Just stop tailgating the snow grader
> and put your side screens in if salt corrosion is affecting your hood bows!!
> ;-)
> Chris
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
> On 13/08/2011, at 6:16 PM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote:
>
> Curt,
>> I am sorry, but I have to disagree. Most older powder coating jobs I
>> have seen are just looking terrible if you look at it closer and peel
>> away some of the loose bits. There may be better powder coatings around
>> now but so far I did not come across them. Of course these coatings do
>> look much better than the paint jobs when new and/or in good condition
>> but AFAIAC they are for trailer queens or dry warm climates only, not
>> for chassis parts of cars that are in frequent use in bad weather or
>> winterly conditions with salt on the road. You simply cannot detect
>> deterioration early enough to prevent serious corrosion.
>> Kees Oudesluijs
>> NL
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