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[Healeys] Replacing knobs on switches

from [Derek Job] [Permanent Link][Original]
To: Forum <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Replacing knobs on switches
From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 18:14:22 +0200 
My car has a non-standard light switch knob and a very old wiper knob with
no markings. I am replacing them with new knobs that i have purchased.

Are these knobs just glued in place, and if so do I just 'cut' the old ones
off?

Derek
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Previous by Thread:  [Healeys] Lucas Charging System?I recently had my C45-P5 Generator rebuilt. After installing it with a Part No. 37206 RB 108 2 12V. NOS Lucas control box I cleaned the points and adjusted the point setting per instructions from Lucas Technical Correspondence course session 5. I then conducted the test as instructed by the Technical Correspondence course session 5. I installed a Volt Gage to confirm that the idiot light is accurately informing me of a valid charging system. At idle speed the system is charging at 13.6 volts. At highway speed with RPM’s around 2500 to 3000 RPM the system is charging at 15.6 to 16 volts. This conforms to the test I conducted of the system. When I turn the lights on I’m only charging around 13.5 volts at speed or idle. My question is should the charging system be that dramatically different with the lights on? Will my Generator’s armature overheat from constantly trying to charge the battery with the settings I have set it to? Will charging values at 15.6 to 16 Volts at highway speeds will the Battery overcharge and boil out the fluids. I haven’t found any answers to these questions on the internet so I thought I would ask the experts. My questions are prompted by an experience last year. I had a generator failure after leaving Encounter. I had a shop in Elkton Maryland where my daughter lives install a Generator and Control Box to the tune of $675 dollars. After leaving my daughters house in Elkton I had a complete electrical failure about 300 miles out and 365 miles from my home. I had the car flat bedded home by AAA. That was an additional $927 to add to the repairs cost. The Generator rebuilder that I use said that the armature had overheated and thrown out all the solder. He felt the cause was an improperly adjusted Control Box. I just want to make sure that my system is working properly and I’m not going to destroy another generator. Any input will be appreciated. Ron Mitchell, Goodrich Michigan 1962 MkII BN7I recently had my C45-P5 Generator rebuilt. After installing it with a Part No. 37206 RB 108 2 12V. NOS Lucas control box I cleaned the points and adjusted the point setting per instructions from Lucas Technical Correspondence course session 5. I then conducted the test as instructed by the Technical Correspondence course session 5. I installed a Volt Gage to confirm that the idiot light is accurately informing me of a valid charging system. At idle speed the system is charging at 13.6 volts. At highway speed with RPM’s around 2500 to 3000 RPM the system is charging at 15.6 to 16 volts. This conforms to the test I conducted of the system. When I turn the lights on I’m only charging around 13.5 volts at speed or idle. My question is should the charging system be that dramatically different with the lights on? Will my Generator’s armature overheat from constantly trying to charge the battery with the settings I have set it to? Will charging values at 15.6 to 16 Volts at highway speeds will the Battery overcharge and boil out the fluids. I haven’t found any answers to these questions on the internet so I thought I would ask the experts. My questions are prompted by an experience last year. I had a generator failure after leaving Encounter. I had a shop in Elkton Maryland where my daughter lives install a Generator and Control Box to the tune of $675 dollars. After leaving my daughters house in Elkton I had a complete electrical failure about 300 miles out and 365 miles from my home. I had the car flat bedded home by AAA. That was an additional $927 to add to the repairs cost. The Generator rebuilder that I use said that the armature had overheated and thrown out all the solder. He felt the cause was an improperly adjusted Control Box. I just want to make sure that my system is working properly and I’m not going to destroy another generator. Any input will be appreciated. Ron Mitchell, Goodrich Michigan 1962 MkII BN7I recently had my C45-P5 Generator rebuilt. After installing it with a Part No. 37206 RB 108 2 12V. NOS Lucas control box I cleaned the points and adjusted the point setting per instructions from Lucas Technical Correspondence course session 5. I then conducted the test as instructed by the Technical Correspondence course session 5. I installed a Volt Gage to confirm that the idiot light is accurately informing me of a valid charging system. At idle speed the system is charging at 13.6 volts. At highway speed with RPM’s around 2500 to 3000 RPM the system is charging at 15.6 to 16 volts. This conforms to the test I conducted of the system. When I turn the lights on I’m only charging around 13.5 volts at speed or idle. My question is should the charging system be that dramatically different with the lights on? Will my Generator’s armature overheat from constantly trying to charge the battery with the settings I have set it to? Will charging values at 15.6 to 16 Volts at highway speeds will the Battery overcharge and boil out the fluids. I haven’t found any answers to these questions on the internet so I thought I would ask the experts. My questions are prompted by an experience last year. I had a generator failure after leaving Encounter. I had a shop in Elkton Maryland where my daughter lives install a Generator and Control Box to the tune of $675 dollars. After leaving my daughters house in Elkton I had a complete electrical failure about 300 miles out and 365 miles from my home. I had the car flat bedded home by AAA. That was an additional $927 to add to the repairs cost. The Generator rebuilder that I use said that the armature had overheated and thrown out all the solder. He felt the cause was an improperly adjusted Control Box. I just want to make sure that my system is working properly and I’m not going to destroy another generator. Any input will be appreciated. Ron Mitchell, Goodrich Michigan 1962 MkII BN7, Ron Mitchell
Next by Thread:  [Healeys] Replacing knobs on switches, Derek Job
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