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Re: [Healeys] King pins

To: Stephen Hutchings <s.hutchings@rogers.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] King pins
From: Bob Haskell <rchaskell@earthlink.net>
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 2009 17:33:37 -0500
Stephen,

If you can feel any lip on the bore of the king pin, you should remove 
it.  The fulcrum pin needs to fit snuggly, with good contact all around 
the bore.  If there's lip that holds the fulcrum pin away from the 
surface, the joint may loosen over time.

You can remove a little material on the flat tapered section of the 
cotter pin with a file.  You don't want to change the angle of the 
taper, just make the cotter pin thinner.  The pin will then go in 
farther.  Just take a little bit off at a time and test fit it.  Repeat. 
  It's easier to remove material than to put it back on. :)

Bob

Stephen Hutchings wrote:
> I posted a question about this a while back and didn't get any 
> responses, so I thought I'd have another go.
> There was some excess metal left on the bottom of my new kingpins where 
> they had been machined...specifically where the hole for the cotter pin 
> meets the opening for the threaded fulcrum. I carefully cleaned this 
> out, but I'd like to know how tight the fit of the threaded fulcrum 
> should be. Is this an intereference fit like a bearing? Or is a bit of 
> burr in there making it tighter than it should be. To put it more 
> simply, what's the procedure of fitting the fulcrums usually like? The 
> cotter pin seems tight too, before I get any thread coming out of the 
> other end to get ahold of.
> Hope this is clear,
> Thanks,
> Stephen, BJ8
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