Don -
Congratulations of having a set of brass nuts. They are clearly an
indication that if I was on Omaha beach I'd want you to be the guy in my
platoon with the BAR.
By design the brass nuts on the manifold are essentially self locking (when
new), this is why it is always recommended that when you take these nuts
off, you replace them with new ones. As brass they can't take that much
torque anyway.
The manifold to head nuts should be torqued quite lightly, only about 25 -
30 ft lbs. If you tighten them too much, you can warp the manifold and
pinch the gasket and either get intake leaks or exhaust leaks. The nuts are
larger so they will be very good at keeping in place over time.
The exhaust to downpipe nuts can be torqued a little tighter, maximum 35-40
ft lbs. Again, the downpipe gasket is a thick copper coated gasket, so you
don't want to overtighten and pinch the gasket, otherwise you'll get leaks
over time. Only on this particular gasket I like to use Permatex anti-seize
on both surfaces to keep the gasket from sticking to either surface over
time.
Best,
Alan
'52 A90
'53 BN1
'59 Jag Mk IX
'64 BJ8
On Wed, Nov 4, 2009 at 6:56 AM, Don Day <fsufan1952@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Good Evening List
> Does anyone have the torque spec. for my brass nuts/steel nuts attaching
> the exhaust manifold and the intake manifold to the head of my BJ-8.Does
> anyone have a list of all the torque specs of the nuts and bolts for our
> cars?
> Thanks Don
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