You're talking about Alumaseal. That and bahrs leaks both work well.
On 6/13/09, Patrick Yoas <pyoas@yahoo.com> wrote:
> I once owned a '70 Jag XJS V12 and normal maintenance was to add two(2)
> satchels of Bars Leak to radiator after flushing out. I never had a problem
> with leaks.
>
> Also, semi-trucks (aka: 18 wheelers), often use a radiator additive
> available at any truck stop for leaks in their cooling systems. I can not
> think of the exact name at the moment, but it wasn't expensive and worked
> great. It was something similar to Bars Leak, or might have actually been
> the
> same thing but was available in a powder form.
>
> I would not put a whole container of this in a Healey radiator but just
> enough to do the job. It very well could assist someone in a temporary
> repair
> of a leaky casting plug or radiator. Good enough for $20k engines, should be
> good enough for a Healey engine.
> Patrick
> BJ8
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> Subject: Re: [Healeys] radiator leak
> To: Healey Mail List <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Message-ID: <4A32A08F.8090006@ix.netcom.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
> My BJ7 had a radiator leak I could never manage to get a solder to keep
>
> - Ignored:
> shut. At various times over the years I tried stop leak products. Most
> seemed to put in some sort of particulate material that would swell
> somewhat in water. Some worked -more or less- for a time.
>
> Over the years my faithful beast ran hotter and hotter. When I finally
> tore down the engine in year 25 I found the dead spaces in the water
> jacket - around the base of each cylinder and up as much as half way- to
> be filled with a deposit roughly the texture of soggy newsprint. Fine
> insulation preventing cooling.
>
> So I do not recommend commercial stop leaks. However, I must admit that
> the pepper idea sounds intriguing in that I suspect it would stay in
> suspension and not deposit.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Pete Pollock
> Palo Alto, CA, USA
>
>
> - Done.
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--
Alan
'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8
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