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Re: [Healeys] Brake Disc Stud Question

To: "'Mark LaPierre'" <lapierrem@sbcglobal.net>,
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake Disc Stud Question
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2009 22:37:39 -0400
Hi Mark,
That does not sound correct. I think you need to check the hole sizes in the
hub. As I recall the outside of the serrations on the stud should be about
0.010" greater than the hole diameter.

Michael Salter
100 (1953) #174
AHX12 (1953)
Bugeye (1961)
http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=432

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Mark LaPierre
Sent: April 11, 2009 10:20 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Disc Stud Question

I have searched the list history to no avail cause I don't really know what
the correct
wording for these studs is or ares.

So "brake disc to hub studs" is the best I can do for now.    On a  BT7
3000.

I removed the old studs from my old front wire wheel hub/disc with know real
difficulty, but
reinstalling them in the new wire wheel hub has been very interesting so
far.
Hammering
on brand new wire wheel hubs is not what I had in mind when I purchased
these.
Why
the studs aren't already installed in the hub in the first place is another
question for later.

When I decided that hammering the studs into place was not working at all I
moved over
to the vise to try to persuade them in with a little pressing action.   I
really thought I was
gaining some ground since the vise handle kept turning,  then suddenly my
vise
decided to give it up.
One of the forged metal halves literally broke in half.   Wow,  couldn't
believe it.   That was
a huge amount of force but the stud was not moving like I thought it was.
So
, no more
vise till the stores open on Monday.

The studs are now in the freezer chillin, (contracting)  and the torch comes
out tomorrow to
warm the holes up a tad (expansion) unless someone comes up with a better
idea.
I never  had this much trouble in the past on TRs that we had to do this
same
operation on.

At  $8.00 a piece for new studdly duddlies, x 10 =  $80.00.   Out of the
question.

The heat is the answer here,  right?

Or,  I noticed (per Moss) that the late BJ8s used a regular bolt in this
area
instead of the serrated studs.    .94 cents a piece.
Would this be an acceptable mod in your humble opinions if I still can't get
the serrated studs in tomorrow?

Mark
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