It's not a mechanical failure that causes these rotors to fail. The
rivet is installed in a way that causes microscopic cracking in the
rotor, then a few hundred miles later with heat and voltage the cracks
propogate (it's all microscopic, you typically can't see it) and the
rotor fails. Only buy rotors without brass rivets.
On 7/21/08, sebring@illawarra.hotkey.net.au
<sebring@illawarra.hotkey.net.au> wrote:
> As previously mentioned the mechanical/dynamic load on these items is so
> little
> that I have driven with my rotor held together with electrical insulation
> tape.
> Maybe the issue is one of being supplied the CORRECT ITEM ( THEY ALL LOOK
> THE
> SAME ) Can I suggest a trial fit before attempting to run the engine. By
> using
> some plastic bearing clearence strip attached to the end of the rotor then,
> hand rotate the engine and check there is no physical contact. I cannot
> believe
> that a car that is running so smoothly down the road suddenly has such
> excessive movement in the distributor shaft that it mechanically destructs
> its
> rotor. The effect on the points gap if such clearence existed would make the
> car run like crap to the extent most drivers would retutn home immediately.
> The
> effect of the high voltage spark jumping from rotor to the cap terminal is
> only
> going to increase the gap. Another suggestion if the failure occurs after
> having the cap off recently is that it has been incorrectly fitted causing
> mechanical interference.
> In the past I have flattened and increased the length of an old rotor by
> hammering it flatter. ( blacksmith technology )Lucas stuff in a reasonable
> state of maintenance is ultra reliable. It all comes down to the skill and
> experience of the maintainer!
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Alan
'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8
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