I shimmed mine on my BN7. I bought some shim stock from McMaster and cut to
fit with tin snips. Set the gap per the manual.
Dave
On 6/5/08, John Harper <ah@jharper.demon.co.uk> wrote:
>
> Jerry
>
> I did not notice anybody replying to this. It might be of interest to
> you and others for me to reproduce below a short item I wrote for one of
> our magazines about 18 years ago. I always set my mountings up to this
> so I don't know if other settings can cause a problem.
>
> ************
>
> It is not usually appreciated that the front top engine mountings need
> setting up. This is not surprising as the instructions do not appear in
> the 100-workshop manual but are in the 100/6 3000 version. These buffers
> or "snubbers" as they are sometimes called should be set to 1/6th of an
> inch clearance between the bottom of the buffer and the top of the
> chassis bracket. This is achieved by adjusting the number and thickness
> of the shims fitted between the metal top of the rubber mounting and the
> main engine top bracket. The shims can be removed or added easily
> without any dismantling as they are slotted to fit around the fixing
> bolt and locating peg. First loosen the main fixing nut and then slide
> them in or out until the correct clearance is obtained.
>
>
> >I noted in the book that the rebound adjustment for the engine mounts has
> the
> >upper rubber mount almost touching the lower rubber. I have talked to a
> few
> >people and none of them actually use shims to alter whatever happens with
> the
> >mounts. What do you guys on the list do with your engine mounts? Shim or
> >forget it?
> >
> --
> John Harper
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