Elton -
Caroll Phillips and Rich Chrysler are two of the top Healey restoration
specialists in the world, frankly. I know I told you not to use seam sealer
but I would always defer to them, esp. the recommendation to use a proper
automotive seam sealer, and suggested prep sequences.
The only other thing I'd recommend is filling the chassis with Waxoyl or a
comparable product, this will help keep the inside of your chassis from
rotting from the inside out, unless you had your chassis properly etched and
dipped then it doesn't matter as much.
Best,
Alan
On Sat, May 10, 2008 at 10:55 PM, Carroll A Phillips <bjcap@optonline.net>
wrote:
> I would definatly recomend using the seam sealer at the frame to floor
> panel
> areas. History shows on our cars the worst areas being the forward footwell
> to chassis crossmember area and on 3000s the trunk floor areas.
> Remember the old sealer/caulk was a tar based formula that would dry out
> and
> crack( plus flexing of the chassis didnt help much either.) Water gets into
> the area between floor panels along with dust and dirt,hold the moisture
> and
> rust out the thin metal floors.
>
> I would do this:
> areas that are badly rusted and need floors replaced,
> strip/clean/wirewheel/sandblast whatever your means of rust/paint
> removal,blow crevises out with air (real good) than treat bare metal with
> epoxy primer, weld in new floors or replacement pieces ,seal all seams
> inside and under car as original with a good polyurethane automotive sealer
> , then paint, those of you desiring PC I would still seal with a clear Poly
> seamsealer as painting or powdercoating will not get in between the
> panels
> to protect against corrosion.
>
> Carroll Phillips Top Down Restorations
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