Pat
You can do this yourself with a spirit level. Set the frame level off
the top face, leave the springs out of the front end and brake backing
plates. Put a 2 inch spacer under the shock arm stop as in this photo -
http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/page10.html
Cut a piece of straight hollow square tube or timber 20 1/2 inches long
to simulate the mean diameter of your tyres and attach it vertically to
the to the front of the stub axle forging using the brake backing plate
holes with no screws coming through the outer face.
You can then easily check against the outer face of the tube/timber with
a spirit level in both the front ahead and full lock positions. Over the
length of the tube/timber each 1/8 inch off vertical equals 1 degree
angle from memory.
If you get the choice I would be aiming for zero camber for a road car
on radial tyres but you probably won't get that without fitting
Kilmartin camber plates or the eccentric top shock bush. In my opinion
the less positive camber the better.
I set my car up like this, it steers beautifully, doesn't scrub tyres
etc etc.
Cheers
Larry Varley
Austin Healey 100 restoration site
http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/
patrick harris wrote:
> How do you figure out the front a arm mounts on a healey as to their
> alignment. I think mine are ok but the front of the frame forward from the
> cross member is dented and tweaked. I can fix that fairly easily myself but I
> cannot figure out from the drawings how to measure correctly those mounting
> points as they are not straight on the frame but mounted slanted on the frame
> and they are not a square piece but sort of oddly shaped. Any ideas or
> experience with this? Currently I do have the engine etc back in the car
> with the suspension mounted but have not found a frame shop in San Diego
> willing or capable of checking it out. Thanks Pat Harris
> _______________________________________________
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