Paul: If not the rotor (least likely) or the black/white wire, or the battery
posts, another option could be the coil. I had this symptom years ago while
using the Allison/Crane optical ignition system. Engine would stop but start
again after cooling off some.
How sure are you about the cut-off switch? Mine gradually became intermittent
before dying completely. Investigation revealed that the cone shaped spring
that applies pressure to the contacts had gotten hot and flattened out.
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, California, USA
1967 3000 MKIII, HBJ8L39031
----- Original Message -----
From: "PG" <bj8mk3@shaw.ca>
To: "'Healey List'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 12, 2007 5:43 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Lucas Issue
> The Prince of Darkness has struck me for the first time in 3 years!
>
>
>
> About three weeks ago, my 67 BJ8 suddenly lost all electrical power. I was
> in first gear and starting on an uphill slope. The car "lurched" a bit
> when I let the clutch out and suddenly I was without power. At that time,
I
> checked the "on/off" knob in the trunk and the connection at the starter
> solenoid but could find no short or loose connection. All the fuses were
> fine and nothing else seemed out of order.
>
>
>
> I was about to push it onto the side of the driveway when the electrical
> started working again for no apparent reason.
>
>
>
> I was going to write the list but....
>
>
>
> Today, I was backing the car into a parking stall and Voila...the power
dies
> again. Again, a miraculous cure after a few hours!.
>
>
>
> Rear "on/off" know is fine, Fuses are fine, connections as starter solenoid
> are fine..
>
>
>
> I am thinking voltage regulator but would like some guidance first.
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Paul
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