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Re: Distributor Oil Seal

To: Robert Poague <rapoague@comcast.net>,
Subject: Re: Distributor Oil Seal
From: Earl Kagna <kags@shaw.ca>
Date: Mon, 06 Nov 2006 11:34:01 -0800
Bob:

I've always used the correct lip seal as depicted in both of my factory 
parts books (BJ7/BJ8, BN7/BT7 - shown in the 'distributor and dynamo 
mounting sections'), which is probably the same as the Moss part that you 
referred to.  I goop the rubber part of the seal liberally with rubber 
grease - the seal doesn't seem to get damaged from re & re-ing  the 
distributor if one is careful.  Of course, this doesn't happen very often 
(if at all) with an electronic ignition installed!  Before that, I would 
pull the distributor at every tune-up - much easier to do on the bench, and 
it had to be re-timed anyway.

I would venture to guess that most DM6 distributors are running with sealant 
at the joint - whether the original lip seal is still there or not.  It 
doesn't seem to be a big problem area.  Granted, the BJ8 distributor is more 
'hi-tech' with an simple o-ring in a groove on the lower distributor body, 
but then I guess it had to be - no tach drive extension - the distributor 
sits a lot closer to the oil in the sump!

Ah well, another bit of Healey trivia dealt with!

Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
BT7 tri-carb
BJ8



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robert Poague" <rapoague@comcast.net>
To: "HealeyList" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2006 5:19 PM
Subject: Distributor Oil Seal


What is the best way to provide an oil seal at the distributor-to-tach drive
housing joint in early 3000's using the DM6 distributor?

Moss sells an oil seal p/n 520-280 which I am currently using, but its
design (similar to a front wheel bearing seal) makes it difficult to remove
the distributor without destroying the seal. Its neoprene lip hangs up in
the groove in the distributor housing extension. Since the seal is a press
fit in the tach drive housing, changing it each time the distributor is
removed and replaced is a hassle, especially if it should become necessary
on the road.

When I assembled the engine after a major overhaul many years ago I just
used silicon sealer on the joint which worked well, but it seems that there
should be a better way. An O-ring? I've seen no reference to a physical seal
anywhere
else except in the Moss catalog. What am I missing?

I welcome your suggestions and comments.

Bob
BJ7




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