Ken -
The nylon float adjustment you are talking about has almost nothing to
do with whether the car runs rich or not. I know that American style
Carter and Holley carbs can work this way, but SU carbs are totally
different.
You have a BJ7 which means you should have HS6 carbs on it. You
adjust the mixture on HS6 carbs by twisting the big brass nut on the
bottom of the carb... this is the big brass nut in which the flexible
line that connects the float chamber with the brass jet connects too.
It's actually sort of a pain in the ass to get to, but if you have the
little SU spanner, the job is fairly easy.
You twist the nut upwards to make it leaner, downwards to make it
richer. You should also check to make sure your needles are properly
set in the dashpot piston. The needle's mounting (the cylinder shaped
portion on the top most part of the needle) should be flush with the
bottom of the dashpot piston, if the needle has been pushed in too far
into the dashpot piston, your car will be running way too rich like
you describe.
Hope that helps,
Best Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
On 5/18/06, KENNETH MASON <meditionm@msn.com> wrote:
> I just started my rebuilt engine for the first time and have gone thru the
> preliminary carb and ignition adjustments. It is running very rich. Looking
> for possible causes. I set the nylon floats at 3/16-inch during carb rebuild,
> but find conflicts with this setting in various publications and/or data
> sheets. They show 1/8-inch to 5/16-inch and sometimes vary depending on the
> actual float material. Any have any other info? What is correct? Another
> couple symptoms are that the rich/lean jet adjustments have no effect on
> engine RPM and some fuel drips from the forward manifold drain tube. They
> have been synchronized. Suggestion will be appreciated!
> Ken Mason
> BJ7 in work
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