Hi Walt,
I would suspect that your problem is caused by either an air leak into the
manifold at the carb mount or a loose or improperly centered throttle plate
(butterfly).
You can often detect a manifold leak using an oxy/acetylene torch. You turn
on a little acetylene and pass the torch tip around all the joints of the
manifold with the engine idling; if the engine speed shows a marked increase
with the torch in one place that is where the leak is.
If the throttle plate is loose "flicking" the throttle closed sometimes will
cause it to find center but, if the screws have been tightened and locked
with the plate in the wrong position, you will have to remove the carb and
check and correct it.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Walton Curl
Sent: Wednesday, May 17, 2006 10:38 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net; Walton Curl
Subject: Idle problem
I have a 60 BT7, and I recently had carbs rebuilt, but I can't get the
idle down below 1100 rpms on the rear carb, the front carb will stall
out as I screw the throttle adjusting screw down, the rear carb,
however, will not stall or decrease below about 1100 rpm's even with the
screw set all the way down. The only way to balance the carbs is to set
the front at the same idle speed. The throttle screw seems to be fine
(no obvious defects in it), could this be from an air leak through the
shaft or through the throttle plate? Any thoughts would be
appreciated.
Walt Curl
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