Bill -
1) Prep the head for unleaded fuel. With hardened seats and valves, you can
run the car without fear of chipping a valve.
2) Rear seal kit is easy to install. Get the round one from
Cape-International, be sure to buy the aluminum rear engine plate so that
you don't have to futz around with cutting a hole in the steel plate to fit
the rear engine seal
3) Planing both surfaces is a good idea, just be mindful that this tends to
slightly increase compression, so don't put in high compression pistons.
4) If possible, I would go with lower compression pistons... there is one
type around that lowers the compression a little from stock... this is a
good thing because it allows for you to use unleaded, and reduces pinging
and running on.
5) When using 5 ring pistons, use all five rings. It is a misconception
that five rings wear the bore, some mechanics throw out one of the rings. 5
rings will help you keep from burning oil over time, and maintain nice
compression for a very long time.
6) reprofile your cam, or even better get a road rally cam if you want more
HP. You have the whole thing apart do not cheap out and not reprofile.
7) be sure to replace all of your valve springs... to avoid high RPM
flutter.
8) If you are using your car mostly for street driving, go out and buy a
new rotary vane oil pump from an earlier 3000/100/6. The gear pumps used on
BJ8s were pretty cheap manufacture, and really are only superior for high
RPM situations, otherwise the rotary vane pump will last much longer and
keep much better oil pressure at low RPMs.
9) replace your timing chain and sprockets.
10) use lots of gasket seal on everything to keep that hunk of iron from
leaking oil like a Kuwaiti sand dune.
I realize all of this is always an exercise in watching your budget, but in
my opinion you should always spend as much as you can on an engine rebuild,
it's a bitch to get out later because you were too cheap to replace
something that should have been replaced when it was out.
Good Luck!
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
On 1/21/06, WWSCPO@aol.com <WWSCPO@aol.com> wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> I'm at the point in my restoration that I need to turn my attention to the
> engine/drivetrain. I have pulled the head and found lots of carbon on all
> the
> valve faces with 5 and 6 also showing rust. The valves seem to be
> sitting,
> uniformly, ever so slightly proud of the seats. The piston tops are also
> carboned with 5 and 6 showing similar rust. The head gasket had carbon
> leeching
> between 5 and 6.
>
> The bottom looks clean and the cam lobes appear unworn as do the bottoms
> of
> the lifters. I have yet to plastigauge any of the bearings.
>
> I am thinking resurfacing the faces of the head and block for true flat,
> magnafluxing both, replacing the the valve guides and necessary valves as
> determined. Also honing the cylinders and replacing the rings. I have
> also heard
> that one should install the rear seal kit. Is line boring
> an automatic? Any
> ballpark $$$$ anticipated to do this? Your experiences and opinions are
> greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill Schumann BJ8 38046
> Nahant, MA
>
> P.S. The car has sat indoors since 1983
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