Hi Bob,
I think most of your suggestions will work. Everyone seems to have their
own "pet" ideas on the subject.
I disagree with the RL 75W-90 in the differential. This is a API GL-4
rated oil & specifically says on the bottle "do not use in a rear wheel
drive differential which requires a GL-5 lubricant". GL-5 has more
sulfur additive which the high contact pressures in the differential
require. Hypoid gears have a lot of sliding pressure contact. All but
the early BN1's have hypoid gears & should use GL-5 rated lube.
On the other end, sulfur compounds in the transmission are thought to
shorten the life of the "brass" synchro rings so a GL-4 oil is usually
used as you suggest.
Dave Russell
Bob Spidell wrote:
> Here's my preferences:
>
> - Engine oil: I have a BJ8, known for showing relatively low oil
> pressure due to the gear-type pump. I just completed a 2,800+ mile
> trip through the Southwest in a heat wave, and I believe the Quaker
> State semi-syn oil I used gave me a couple more PSI. This stuff only
> costs a little more than mineral 20W-50. I did a lot of research
> and believe the viscosity index (VI) of an oil roughly correlates
> with oil pressure when hot. The QS semi-syn has a VI of
> 130-something, mineral 20W-50 is usually 120 and full syns are
> around 150. I think the semi-syn is a good compromise.
>
> - Brake fluid: I've used DOT5 (silicone) BF for probably 18 years
> with no problems I can attribute to the fluid. But lately, I've
> noticed that some of the fluid I've bled to have a browish
> color--anybody else noticed this? I just rebuilt the servo and
> replaced both MCs--I think maybe there was something in the new cyls.
> - Gearbox-O/D: I've used Redline MT90 for over two years and 7,000
> miles. I'll never go back. One Lister (Alan?) has noted less brass
> shake in the fluid with MT90; this bodes well for synchro lifespan.
> Shifts are smoother and the O/D engages quicker.
>
> - Differential: Redline 75W-90 gear oil. No noticeable difference
> from mineral (not surprisingly), but if the MT90 is any indication I
> expect no problems and probably longer life from the (already almost
> indestructable) Healey rearend. - Carbs: I use the "official" SU oil,
> but I think any 20W would work. Have used engine oil and ATF in the
> past and not noticed much difference. Use the lightest oil you can
> that prevents lean miss on hard acceleration (and only put about a
> half-inch in the bottom of the inner piston; any more gets blown out
> the cap).
>
> - Shocks: Use official Armstrong shock fluid. Why not--it's not
> expensive.
>
> - Coolant: Unless you live in a really cold climate, use about 1/3
> antifreeze (green) to 2/3 distilled water. As far as I'm concerned,
> the "controversy" over using dist. water--something about it being
> "mineral hungry" or some such hogwash--is over. Most auto experts
> are recommending distilled, and I've used it for over 15 years and
> the coolant and the inside of the engine stay clean. Use Redline
> Water Wetter if you live in a hot climate; it appears to keep the
> temp down a couple degrees. In fact, if you live in a hot climate
> you can use straight dist. water with Water Wetter.
>
> - Driver: Arizona Ice Tea with Ginseng ;)
>
>
> bs
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