I agree that the cylinder walls should not be abraded because they are
anodized to form a seal and a wear surface. I've also heard that honing the
anodized coating off will cause them to oxidize and deteriorate.
What I've found is that the cylinders don't seem to pit very much. I suppose
if there were a component of electrolysis pitting might occur, but they seem
pretty immune to normal chemical action in the brake fluid.
What I have seen is solids which appear to be the remnants of old,
contaminated brake fluid caked on the walls. I use hot soapy water, soft
scrub and a tooth brush to clean the bores. All the cylinders I've done have
come out like new.
Bill Lawrence
On 4/11/05 6:58 PM, "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Hello,
> Not sure about the treatment but do know that typical
> whl cylinder hones really scuff into aluminum leaving
> a relatively rough surface finish. Very noticeble to
> the finger nail test. That said, I've had success
> cleaning up a few cruddy (but not pitted) cylinders
> using 600 paper.
> Regards,
> Joe Mulqueen
> '60 BT7
>
>
> Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2005 08:11:34 +0800
> From: Blue One Hundred <healey.nut@gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: Brake Master Cylinder Leaking
>
> Jim / Scot -
>
> You don't want to hone the aluminum bore, because the
> cylinder bore is
> specially treated at the factory to resist wear.
> Honing the bore will
> remove this hardened treatment and ruin the master
> cylinder.
>
> Aluminum when it is untreated will wear out quickly...
> that's why
> using rebuild kits on these aluminum master cylinders
> don't work long
> term the majority of the time. If the hardened
> surface of the bore is
> damaged or worn in any way, your only option is either
> to resleeve
> with a SS liner or buy a new master cylinder.
>
> Regards,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '64 BJ8
>
> On 4/10/05, Bluechipracing <bluechipracing@snet.net>
> wrote:
>> Bob: Why not hone an aluminum bore?
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