healeys
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Re: Fitting the doors

To: <Rp826union@aol.com>, <healeys@Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: Re: Fitting the doors
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2005 17:57:13 -0500
Robert,
It sounds as if the metal in the area of the door shut pillar, outer and 
inner dogleg areas was altered in some way. For one thing the commercial 
replacement door shut pillars for Hundreds are often made a 1/4" too wide 
and the edge has to be turned in and reprofiled to fit properly. I've run 
into this 3 times on Hundreds with new shut pillars.
Of course to do this, the shut plates and latches come off, the rear fender 
comes off, etc.
One way to cheat here (I won't tell anybody if you don't) is to remove the 
door interior trim panel and remove the door latch and it's mounting plate 
from within the door casing. Pack the latch mounting back into the door 
using washers. This will require the door to come inboard further to latch, 
which is what you want. This should solve the problem.
Let me know how it turns out.
Rich Chrysler
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Rp826union@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2005 4:38 PM
Subject: Fitting the doors


>I am finishing the restoration of a 56 100 and am having a hard time 
>getting
> the doors to close completely.
> The gaps are great and without the door strikers in place, the doors are
> perfect.  The rear(back) edge of the driver door sticks out about 1/4 inch 
> when
> the door is closed.  The passenger door closes completely but the bottom 
> edge of
> the door is sticking out from the sill about 1/4 to a 1/2 inch.
> Does this type of adjustment have to do with the hinges? I have adjusted 
> the
> door strikers all I can.
> If this is a hinge adjustment issue, can someone explain it to me in 
> simple
> terms?
> I am tired of people telling me that my doors are open!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>
> Thanks.
> Robert Phillips




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