Hello Ben,
I have read your emails to the group.
I am in complete agreement with you, $350.00 is pure robbery.
Forward me your full address and I will take pity upon you and forward you
one completely free of charge.
This will be a serviceable used one, but you will need to retain your own
"push rod"
Best wishes for the New Year.
Regards.
David.
www.bighealey.ltd.uk
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Ben Prince" <blprince2@comcast.net>; "Healeys" <healeys@Autox.Team.Net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 29, 2004 9:53 PM
Subject: Re: Master Cylinder
> Hi again Ben,
> If you have to resort to heat to get the screwed cap off the body, there
is
> the likelihood of damaging the plastic distance piece inside. I don't
> believe it is normally supplied in a rebuild kit but you may want to
confirm
> this before resorting to the heating business. Everything else that may
come
> to harm from heating will be in the replacement kit anyway.
> I must agree with what Tracy Drummond said in that your life depends on
this
> brake system and it isn't something to fool around with. If you suspect
that
> there has been any permanent damage done to this cylinder assembly, to err
> on the side of safety would be the way to go.
> Perhaps another lister might have a spare used assembly that could be
> rebuilt to help out a new guy to the list???
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ben Prince" <blprince2@comcast.net>
> To: "Healeys" <healeys@Autox.Team.Net>
> Sent: Wednesday, December 29, 2004 3:54 PM
> Subject: Master Cylinder
>
>
> >I removed the brake master cylinder from my recently purchased BN1. Many
> > thanks to Rick Chrysler for his advice on how to get it out.
> >
> > With the leaking master cylinder now on the work bench, I'd like to
> > rebuild
> > it. It is virtually impossible, however, to take it apart. It looks
like
> > someone has used JB Weld on the end cap threads, making it very
difficult
> > to
> > disassemble. I have scraped away as much of the glue as possible, put
the
> > unit in a vice, and twisted with a big socket. If I put any more force
> > on
> > it, something will surely break. Applying heat is the next step. I'd
> > appreciate any comments on how to disassemble.
> >
> > Perhaps the case is cracked and the JB Weld is an attempt to seal it.
I
> > suppose that applying dye penetrant would be in order if I knew where to
> > get
> > it and how to apply it. If cracked, is it possible to weld the case?
> >
> > In looking at some catalogs, new complete assemblies exceed an
> > astronomical
> > $350. Any advice where I might get another master cylinder case? A
used
> > one
> > would be fine. With another case I could break open the old one and use
> > the
> > internals along with a rebuild kit to get a complete assembly.
> >
> > Any suggestions?
> > Many thanks,
> > Ben
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