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Re: Front Bearing Shims

To: John Loftus <loftusdesign@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Front Bearing Shims
From: jerry adams <cjerryadams@yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 22 Oct 2004 13:23:44 -0700 (PDT)
To John, Don, Elton, Kevin, and all,
 
When I first repacked my front bearings I found that I had to replace the 
bearings.  In 1975 Healey parts were very hard to find in Columbus, OH but 
Temkin headquarters was close so I placed a call to Temkin Corp offices and 
found that the bearing would have to come from England.  Finally got the 
bearings but not at a cost you would pay for at a local Industrial Bearing 
house.  I just replaced the shims that were there not knowing or having a 
service manual.  Later on after getting a service manual I found out that I 
needed to redo the shim package.  I used all the shims from both sides and got 
the zero preload that the factory specified on each wheel. Then I got shims 
from local Industrial Bearing supply house to build the second pack I needed.  
If you do this then you will know just how many of what size to buy and not 
over spend.  The OD of the shims were filed down by packing together on an 
electric drill, clamping drill in vise, turning drill on and filing to correct 
OD.
The Healey factory service manual describes a "zero or close to it" preload on 
the bearings.  Most american cars describe a high positive preload and then 
backing off to a neutral preload.  However more often than not the preload 
turns out to be negative.  This puts tremendous loads on the bearings during 
turns but it seems to work.  On four wheel drive vechiles (Chevys) the preload 
is positive.  So---- what the heck what is best?  I think that zero preload or 
very slightly positive will give best bearing wear and front end feel. 
By the way you won't get exactly zero preload using the Healey service manual 
method but it will be close.   
 
Jerry
BN 2
 

John Loftus <loftusdesign@cox.net> wrote:
Elton,

I bought a package of assorted shims through either a local industial 
hardware store or McMaster-Carr. The problem is you can find the right 
I.D of .875" (7/8") but the O.D. needs to be 1.25" (1 1/4") for the BJ7 
(and I think earlier 6's .. I believe the BJ8 uses different sized 
shims). So the shims I ordered have an O.D. of 1.375" (1 3/8") so it was 
necessary to make a quick fixture, chuck them up to a lathe and cut the 
O.D. down (all at the same time). An easy job if you have a machine 
lathe or a machinist friend like I do who likes beer :)

I just checked for you and McMaster-Carr has an assorted shims set. If 
you go to

http://www.mcmaster.com/ and put in the following part number into the 
search field, 3088A935, you will see that the 19-Piece Plain Steel Shim 
Assortment costs $10.33 and contains one each of these thicknesses:

.001", .0015", .002", .003", .004", .005", .006", .007", .008", .010", 
.012", .015", .020", .025", .031", .047", .062", .093", and .125".

With the above assortment and the original shims that were on the car, 
it was no problem finding the right combinations to get the bearings 
adjusted right. I do have a stack of extras that I could send you ... 
maybe it would be enough (btw, I like beer too :)

Cheers,
John

Elton Schulz wrote:

>Hi, fellow listers!
>Does anyone know of an inexpensive source of front bearing shims for a BJ7?
>Moss wants over $4 each for the .003" and .005" shims. Based on archive
>recommendations that I should get six of each size plus four of the .010"
>shims, it can get pretty expensive for these flimsy critters.
>Thanks for your help.
>
>Elton Schulz
>63 BJ7


                
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