I've had MT90 in my gearbox for about 5,000 miles now and
I am very happy with it. Shifts seem a bit smoother, and the O/D
definitely activates faster--especially when hot--than with the 20W-50
I was using. FWIW, I ran 20W-50 detergent oil in the box for 80,000
miles--changed every 10-12,000--with no problems. When I drained the box
the oil looked new except for some brass; it was as if you'd taken a piece
of brass the size of a BB, or smaller, and ground it to the smallest possible
particle size. I had to look at the oil in bright sunlight to see the swirls
of brass
(kinda pretty, actually), and I couldn't feel any grit in the oil whatsoever.
I
assume this is normal wear of the shifting forks.
After breakin, most use a 20W-50 oil. I used Chevron Supreme--which
used to be available at Costco for $1/qt--for years and was happy with it.
But Costco quit carrying it and I haven't seen it anywhere else so I think
maybe Chevron quit making it (in 20W-50, at least). Tried Castol, again,
which is more expensive and seems to give a PSI or two less oil pressure
than the Chevron did. Also tried Valvoline "Extended Life," which gives
a little more pressure than the Castrol.
Was just browsing the website of my cam grinder--Crower--and noticed
they recommend AGAINST using synthetic(!), especially for all flat and
hydraulic tappet engines. They implied the shear strength of the synthetic was
not adequate. They recommended Kendall GT-1 20W-50. I always thought
Kendall was an "off" brand, but it looks like I'll be giving it a try. Have
been
using it in my lawnmower with no problems ;)
bs
********************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************
> Robert -
>
> For a new motor, run non-detergent 30 WT for about 500
> - 1,000 miles (you can get this at Napa or Carquest)
> then switch to the 20W-50 of your choice, although I
> prefer Castrol. Synthetics like Mobil 1 are typically
> too thin to work in the Healey motor, which is
> designed to run with a more viscous oil. Using Mobil
> one or 10W-40 your oil pressure can run low.
>
> For the gearbox, you should run either non-detergent
> 30WT (additives in multiweights like 20W-50 keep
> particles in suspension, which wears out a gearbox.
> multi weights also have friction reducers, which can
> make shifting hard). I have also had very good
> experience with Redline MT 90 Gearbox oil, although it
> is expensive stuff. If you buy this make sure to seal
> up your gearbox nice and leak free.
>
> Regards,
>
> Alan
>
>
> --- Robert - 65BJ8 <rnbmail@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> > List,
> >
> > For a new motor and gearbox restoration, what oil is
> > currently favored for each by experinced folks and
> > why? Handbook spec, or newer technology? Mobil 1
> > anybody?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > =====
> > Robert - 65BJ8
> > rnbmail@yahoo.com
> > Cell: 408-221-5244
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