Well, they are sending the wrong part for your cap. Axe them if they
have another rotor spec... Or get one that is the same brand as your
cap.
I'm still using an ancient Lucas cap and rotor. I just got a new rotor
From moss and it's right for my cap. I opted to continue using my old
rotor just because it looks better built than the new one. I've never
had a rotor failure like described here frequently. Maybe those who've
had "faulty rotors" should check whether they match up to their cap or
not...
Here's a recent post on that issue from another car forum:
"I recently cured a long standing starting fault on one of my other
cars............this is so basic but took three years to find. Have you
checked that the rotor arm and the distributor cap are matched? Some
rotors are about 3mm longer and are therefore nearer the segments in
the cap. I had a short rotor fiited to a 'long' cap. I had superb
sparks at the coil but intermittent at the plugs. If you take the cap
and rotor , turn the cap upside down and place the rotor in the cap you
should have about 1mm clearance at the segments. I found that some
coils are capable of producing sparks that will jump bigger gaps than
others. My original falt was that the car would always start when cold
but refused when hot...I presume that the coil was more efficient when
cold but when hot could not accomodate the 3mm cap gap and the plug
gap"
This could be the root of a lot of cars troubles based some of the
posts about misfires and such that are never cured...
Rick
San Diego
On Jul 1, 2004, at 7:41 PM, Patton Dickson wrote:
> But it is what most vendors send you when you order a cap for a 6
> cylinder
> Healey.
>
> BTW I went ahead and put everything, with the pictures on my website
> to make
> things easier. Just click on http://Austin-Healeys.com and follow the
> link.
>
> Patton
>
> Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX
> '57 A-H 100-Six - http://Austin-Healeys.com
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