He is not what you would call either a collector or restorer. He just thought
it would be a great car when finished.
he has over $17,000 in receipts plus the cost of the car.
the work was done over the last few years in local shops. he bought it to keep
but is out of space.
the car is located in Los angeles (mid Wilshire).
please contact him directly. you may forward this link to other forums.
you may forward this to local club members.
Ron Rader
1965 BJ8
1967 E FHC
1994 XJ6
http://www.klabin.com/klabin/Members/jahmenaw/Ron%20WebPage/main/document_view
this link worked about 50% of the time (i could not figure out why it was not
totally reliable)
you can click on the pictures to enlarge.
Patrick Stanton
pms5642@yahoo.com
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From "John and Felicia Cope" <naku at wayxcable.com>
Date: Fri, 1 Nov 2002 06:45:29 -0500
Subject: Re: Healeys at Barrett-Jackson
While there is no doubt that BJ is the venue for selling premier cars of all
marques, I have come away with the feeling that "buying it at BJ" guarantees
that you pay too much for the typical Healey sold there.
John Cope
62BT
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 31, 2002 7:41 PM
Subject: Healeys at Barrett-Jackson
> I just got the preliminary list of cars to be auctioned at B-J and there
are
> 7 cars listed under the Austin-Healey category. However, there are a two
> listings that don't inspire a lot of confidence. Either the sellers don't
> know what the hell they're selling, or the B-J folks don't know a lot
about
> Healeys.
>
> For example, we have for sale:
>
> a "1958 100-4 BN2 Roadster " ('58 was a good year for BN2s)
>
> a "1961 BT7 MARK III" (one of the very early MARK IIIS)
>
> In addition, there is a 1960 3000 Mark I 2 + 2 Roadster,
> a 1962 3000 Mark II Roadster (doesn't say whether BN7, or BT7)
> a 1963 MARK II Convertible (OK)
> a 1967 3000 MARK III Convertible and a 1967 BJ8 Convertible (I think if I
> were the seller, I'd use the first description rather than the second, but
I
> always find interesting that the auction people don't strive for any
> consistency in their descriptions).
>
> So, a reasonable number on offer, three on reserve and four on no reserve.
>
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
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From JXLmail at aol.com
Date: Fri, 1 Nov 2002 07:07:07 EST
Subject: Sorry was not intending to send : Pictures from Jim Latoff of
I miss addressed home photos.
Jim L.
BN2
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From "R.Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 01 Nov 2002 07:11:56 -0800
Subject: Re: Healeys at Barrett-Jackson
John and Felicia Cope wrote:
> I don't think that this year's misdescriptions are anything new at BJ. I
> have been on this list for a couple of BJ auctions and each year I have been
> left wondering if the cars (not infrequently described in ways that suggest
> that the "sellers don't know what the hell they're selling, or the B-J folks
> don't know a lot about Healeys") are really worth the huge premiums they
> demand at BJ.
>
> While there is no doubt that BJ is the venue for selling premier cars of all
> marques, I have come away with the feeling that "buying it at BJ" guarantees
> that you pay too much for the typical Healey sold there.
>
> John Cope
> 62BT
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, October 31, 2002 7:41 PM
> Subject: Healeys at Barrett-Jackson
>
> > I just got the preliminary list of cars to be auctioned at B-J and there
> are
> > 7 cars listed under the Austin-Healey category. However, there are a two
> > listings that don't inspire a lot of confidence. Either the sellers don't
> > know what the hell they're selling, or the B-J folks don't know a lot
> about
> > Healeys.
> >
> > For example, we have for sale:
> >
> > a "1958 100-4 BN2 Roadster " ('58 was a good year for BN2s)
> >
> > a "1961 BT7 MARK III" (one of the very early MARK IIIS)
> >
> > In addition, there is a 1960 3000 Mark I 2 + 2 Roadster,
> > a 1962 3000 Mark II Roadster (doesn't say whether BN7, or BT7)
> > a 1963 MARK II Convertible (OK)
> > a 1967 3000 MARK III Convertible and a 1967 BJ8 Convertible (I think if I
> > were the seller, I'd use the first description rather than the second, but
> I
> > always find interesting that the auction people don't strive for any
> > consistency in their descriptions).
> >
> > So, a reasonable number on offer, three on reserve and four on no reserve.
> >
> > Cheers
> > Gary Anderson
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From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 1 Nov 2002 06:20:47 -0600
Subject: BN7 for sale
Before I go any further, I want to tell the list that I will state what the car
needs as plainly as I can and what has been done so far to the car.
First it is a California car with only minor rust. The body has been painted
Colorado Red. It has all the chrome and the bumpers and grill are in decent
shape.
It has new SS hubs and wheels with Michelin 165x15's
The engine has recently been rebuilt. Less than 500 miles on it since rebuild.
All the hydraulics have been rebuilt. It has a new clutch. The transmission
is a four speed with overdrive that works. Tranny may need laygear bearings.
It has new carpet, new seats, new door panels and kick panels. Door panels are
not on car.
It needs:
Wiring harness
New top
Door latch on drivers side (doesn't catch good).
Interior finished. (Rear quarter panels and seals) I have them, they just are
not on)
trunk finished
trafficators work but do not cancel
This car would make a very nice daily driver or could be restored to pristine
condition without a lot of money involved by someone with some mechanical
knowledge. The paint job is good but not "perfect".
The price is $24000 absolutely firm. Don't even bother to offer less.
I don't need a lot of haggling over what the car is or is not worth, either you
want it or you don't.
Pictures available.
Reply off list please.
Don
BN7
"Life is not measured by the breaths we take but by the things that take our
breath away"
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From Jim Wood <jwood_kc at yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 1 Nov 2002 06:33:36 -0800 (PST)
Subject: RE: Simple wiring question
For a negative ground, which wire(s) should connect to
the + and which to the - ???
Also, since it is friday, I thought I would offer the
following bit of humor. It is particularly applicable
to my situation, not to mention pretty funny...
http://home.pacbell.net/diana_do/knowjack.htm
Jim Wood
__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
HotJobs - Search new jobs daily now
http://hotjobs.yahoo.com/
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Fri, 1 Nov 2002 09:47:45 EST
Subject: Re: Simple wiring question
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
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From Slvrbulit2 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 1 Nov 2002 17:11:14 EST
Subject: friday humor
> COUNTRY-WESTERN SONG LYRICS
>
> 1. Her Teeth Was Stained, But Her Heart Was Pure.
> 2. How Can I Miss You If You Won't Go Away?
> 3. I Don't Know Whether To Kill Myself Or Go Bowling.
> 4. I Just Bought A Car From A Guy That Stole My Girl,
> But The Car Don't Run So I Figure We Got An Even Deal.
> 5. I Keep Forgettin' I Forgot About You.
> 6. I Liked You Better Before I Knew You So Well.
> 7. I Wouldn't Take Her To A Dog Fight, Cause I'm Afraid
> She'd Win.
> 8. I'm So Miserable Without You, It's Like Having You Here
> 9. I've Got Tears In My Ears From Lyin' On My Back and
> Cryin' Over You
> 10. If I Had Shot You When I Wanted To, I'd Be Out By Now.
> 11. Mama Get A Hammer (There's A Fly On Papa's Head).
> 12. My Head Hurts, My Feet Stink, And I Don't Love You.
> 13. My Wife Ran Off With My Best Friend, And I Sure Do
> Miss Him.
> 14. Please Bypass This Heart.
> 15. You're The Reason Our Kids Are So Ugly.
> 16. If the Phone Don't Ring, You'll Know It's Me.
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From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Fri, 1 Nov 2002 21:32:55 -0800
Subject: Healey Sighting....Sorta
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From "Ryan at Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2002 01:23:03 -0500
Subject: spacers between carbs & manifold
1 silver heat gasket
1 approx 1/2" bakelite spacer
1 paper gasket
heat shield
1 approx 1/4" fiber spacer
what order should they be in? The thick spacer seems to be between the
manifold and the heat shield just to give enough clearance so the shield
doesn't rattle against the manifold.
I've listed them as I think they go, first against the manifold and last
against the carburetor body. The parts manual lists 2 x 1/4" spacers, but I
don't have that many. Any ideas?
Ryan
BJ7
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From Grglmn at cs.com
Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2002 02:02:59 EST
Subject: Re: Healey Sighting....Sorta
I have a vague memory of a similar ad actually being shown in one of the old
comic books under similar circumstances, any vintage comic buffs out there
able to confirm?
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
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From Magnus Karlsson <492karlsson at telia.com>
Date: Sat, 02 Nov 2002 08:05:42 +0100
Subject: Re: spacers between carbs & manifold
Magnus Karlsson
SWEDEN
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From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
Date: Sat, 02 Nov 2002 11:43:42 +0000
Subject: Re: Proposal: Healey Parts List on CD-ROM
I will see if I still have a copy. Last time I looked it was real
hardcore MS DOS stuff. I found it really unusable so stopped using it.
What would be really useful would be a CD with the original parts lists
on it, most suppliers can answer a query like "Can you provide a
left-handed BSA grommit screw adjustment kit part number XYZ/ABC - 12345".
That would be a really worthwhile operation for the combined AH clubs to
get together and organise - or perhaps persuade whichever of BMCs
successor organisations has it - to get an online parts list organised
if not a CD.
Any support from the clubs?????
Yours,
Peter
WilKo@aol.com wrote:
>I work on a mac so I can't use it...
>
>I was just thinkng that if it were any good the data could be imported into
>any text format for easy production of a text (searchable) database for a CD
>type project.
>
>That combined with the excellent Moss PDF would be sweet.
>
>Rick
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2002 08:42:11 -0600
Subject: Re: Healey Parts List on CD-ROM
Just my two cents, Mark
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From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2002 11:30:08 -0500
Subject: re parts list
Carroll Phillips
Top Down Restorations
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2002 11:49:19 -0600
Subject: Re: re parts list
> What would REALLY be appretiated is a comprehensive parts list of parts
that
> are manufactured as per original spec. I spend TOO much time locating
> quality parts to use in restorations. If there was a list that could
easily
> be updated as a more correct part becomes available ,a lot of people would
> be happy ,not to mention a more correct car.
>
> Carroll Phillips
>
> Top Down Restorations
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From HealeyHundred at aol.com
Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2002 12:13:54 EST
Subject: Re: re parts list
Problem is that a supplier/manufacturer...either wholesale or retail (or even
one of us hobbyists) make up a batch of a piece to original specs and make
them available. Then they get sold and are not made up again. So the list
is an ever changing list.
It would be like trying to catch and moving target.
Richard
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From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2002 12:20:11 EST
Subject: Re: re parts list
> What would REALLY be appretiated is a comprehensive parts list of parts that
> are manufactured as per original spec. I spend TOO much time locating
> quality parts to use in restorations. If there was a list that could
> easily
> be updated as a more correct part becomes available ,a lot of people would
> be happy ,not to mention a more correct car.
>
> Carroll Phillips
>
Such a list as you describe would be very useful. However, it is also
extremely difficult to put together. For one, EVERY person who has bought
parts during the past year would need to provide input to a "list manager"
who would then update.
Here are the main problems, as I see it:
1) contributions would be few, far between, and sporatic
2) many owners don't really know what is "right-on" vs "pretty darn close",
thought they ought to be able to tell whether an item is "servicable but
easily distinguished from an original piece", or "useless".
3) suppliers continually change their sources for parts. Thus, what may be
a great part from vendor "A" this year could be not so great next year. And
while vendor "A" maly have a good bit, because other vendors buy from his
source (in many cases) thely might also have equally good pieces. Giving "A"
the "nod" would lunfairly take busines away from these others. Similarly,
while vendor "B" maly not have a "spot-on" replacement this year, they might
get one in to sell next year. So the list MUST be contiinually updated on a
regular basis or it will end up providing wrong or bad information in short
order.
I sense a lot of feelings among owners of having ONE source they can turn to
for all the answers. Life isn't that simple, and there is no substitute for
doing your own research, lots of legwork, and developing your own network of
people to ask questions of and suppliers.
I recently posted info about Moss' rear leaf springs because quite by
accident I discovered that 1) they were really much better quality than the
saggy ones available for years (and up to two years ago) and could be
installed with confidence now and 2) that they DID have them for the 100
though their catalog doesn't say so. I wrote this all lup and put it out on
the list, plus it has appeard also in both Healey Marque and Austin-Healey
Magazine.
There are other parts that I've picked up form various suppliers that have
been great for a few years but then weren't so right later on due to a change
in manufacturer/source. One example of this is the underlayment material I
wrote about in Austin-Heealey Magazine a few years back. THe 3/16" pitch
inner weave has not been available for a few years now and I'm not even sure
that the 1/4" inner weave stuff is still being offered.
On the "plus" side is the 100 fan belts being sold by A-H Spares. They are
extremely close to the originals in width, thickness and overall length. But
other parts dealers in this country may have these same belts a) if they buy
from A-H Spares themselves, or b) if they buy fromt he same source that A-H
does.
Just some words to keep you on your toes.
Roger
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From "R.Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Sat, 02 Nov 2002 12:21:44 -0800
Subject: Re: re parts list
HealeyHundred@aol.com wrote:
> Excellent idea!
>
> Problem is that a supplier/manufacturer...either wholesale or retail (or even
> one of us hobbyists) make up a batch of a piece to original specs and make
> them available. Then they get sold and are not made up again. So the list
> is an ever changing list.
>
> It would be like trying to catch and moving target.
>
> Richard
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From "R. Poague" <rapoague at gte.net>
Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2002 10:22:41 -0800
Subject: Re: spacers between carbs & manifold
(Manifold)
Thin fiber gasket
1/2" bakelite spacer
Thin fiber gasket
Heat shield
Thin fiber gasket
1/2" bakelite spacer
Thin fiber gasket
(HS6 Carburetor)
This amounts to (do the math) four thin fiber gaskets. Due to the
compressibility of the gaskets, I have to be very careful when tightening
the carb nuts to keep from warping the carbs, which causes sticky throttle
shafts and too fast idle. I have not checked for vacuum leaks but am not
confident I don't have any. The car runs fine except for lots of exhaust
popping during coasting, and run-on when shut down, both of which could be
due to gasket leaks that I've compensated for by jet tuning.
I hope this info is of some value to Ryan and I welcome anyone's thoughts or
suggestions on the propriety of my setup, particularly in regard to the thin
gaskets.
Bob
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From Healeyguy at aol.com
Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2002 14:38:00 EST
Subject: Re: 3000 Owners Handbooks Wanted
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From Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
Date: Sat, 02 Nov 2002 16:24:34 -0500
Subject: test
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2002 16:27:44 -0500
Subject: RE: Healey Sighting....Sorta
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Meanie"
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From "rob" <rob at iwjlaw.com>
Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2002 14:04:48 -0800
Subject: RE: Healey Sighting....Sorta
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2002 18:39:00 -0500
Subject: Healey sightings
Does anyone try to get a copy of all the movies with Healeys in them?
(Richard???)
Just wondering,
CB
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From Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
Date: Sat, 02 Nov 2002 19:03:31 -0500
Subject: Thanks
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Sat, 02 Nov 2002 19:14:29 -0500
Subject: Re: Thanks
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steven Tjepkema" <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, November 02, 2002 7:03 PM
Subject: Thanks
> Thanks to all on the help with getting my car up and runing the carbs was
the last thing not poping thru the carbs its running smooth I think it would
even better If I could lean it out.The plugs still are coming out black, I`m
not to easy on it I can work that gas pedal. Next is side curtains its
getting cool out.MY 1958 bn4 needs sidecurtains are they different from a
rag top and a hard top.Than I wood need two sets. Thanks Steven
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From "Donald" <Mk23000 at attbi.com>
Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2002 19:35:30 -0600
Subject: Re: spacers between carbs & manifold
Yep, Ryan.
In AKD3523 (copy) Mechanical Service Parts List:(BJ7 & 8 ONLY)
"29F-H101 to 6188 calls for FOUR 12B561 Spacer."
That covers BJ-7 ONLY.
When I took Hortense apart (1000% original [?] and seems so)
the order was:
(from manifold outwards)
Silver (heat type) gasket
1/2" (or there abouts<G>) bakelite spacer
Std. Paper Gasket (Note 1)
Heat shield
Std. Paper Gasket (Note 1)
1/2" (or there abouts<G>) bakelite spacer
Std. Paper Gasket (Note 1)
Carb body.
Note 1: See my site "A-H Carb Gasket" under "Product Comparisons".
Hortense and I have been VERY close to 70K miles with said setup
including getting caught TWICE in DC in The Snow!!!
No problems.
At this time don't have one of my other Service Books handy (on loan)
but would suspect the 1/4" spacer is for BJ-8 with 2" carbs.
Anybody??
Regards............
Ed
'63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey)
Founding Member & Delegate, ILLINI Chapter-AHCA(20+yrs)
Member, AHCUSA
Ed Kaler, Proprietor
" Just Brits "
Please visit my web site at: www.justbrits.com
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From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
Date: Sat, 02 Nov 2002 18:22:48 -0800
Subject: Free Tickets . . . . .
Sorry for the last minute notice! I have extra tickets for the CART
500 mile race in Fontana, CA...... tomorrow. The seats are in row 12,
section 2, ON THE START/FINISH LINE.
I will give two tickets FREE of charge (you might have to buy me a
beer) to the FIRST caller . . . . or four tickets for $150. Face
value of the tickets are $75 each.
These are fantastic seats!
Terry Blubaugh
Diamond Bar, CA
(909) 861-8482 or (213) 300-0124
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From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2002 22:33:03 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Gas mileage.
Sorry for the delay in responding to you. I spent Friday with 5 other
guys traveling to Chatham, Ontario to tour RM Classic Restorations
shop. This is a top restoration outfit producing top quality work.
They also have a beautiful display of vehicles, some of which are
awaiting restoration. After that fantastic feast, we went on to the
relatively new Transportation Museum located just east of Windsor,
Ontario. That was another eye opener. It is a georgous new facility
with an enormous variety of vehicles covering a wide range of the
automotive industry evolution. As it turned out, we were the only
guests and were provided with a person tour. All in all, it was a real
neat trip - over 600 miles, four hours feasting on some beautiful cars
and motorcycles, and some wonderful bench jawing on the trip - all in
one day.
Enough of that; your gas mileage may not be that off. It depends on
many factors and one is simply your speed. The following example is
taken from The Autocar report on the Mark II roadster dated December
22, 1961. The test conditions were damp with 0-5 mph winds at an air
temperature of 55 deg. F.
3000 Mk II
Miles per Gallon
[Imperial Measure ]
Speed MPH Direct top O.D. Top % Variance
30 30.5 31.3 2.6%
40 27.2 30.0 10.3%
50 25.1 28.0 11.6%
60 23.3 26.0 11.6%
70 21.2 24.2 14.2%
80 19.1 23.3 22.0%
90 15.0 18.0 20.0%
100 11.0 15.1 37.3%
"The Autocar" Dec 22, 1961
As you can see, an average of 22 MPH on one trip would be quite
possible, especially if your speed range was mostly between 50 and 70
MPH and steady highway travel with only a little stop and go urban
travel to pull your average down. Enjoy your car Jim. It is a great
way to unwind; either driving or maintaining it. And I have found that
the people you get to meet in your travels and club meets are
absolutely the best.
--Scott Morris ['62 3000 MkII BT7 tricarb driver; '60 3000 MkI BN7
project]
Simcoe, Ontario
--- James Lea <clocks@midcoast.com> wrote: << J. Scott. I will have to
do a more thorough test of my mileage. From your figures, it seems mine
is even a little high. Thanks for the information. Cheers, JL
James Lea Clockmaker, 2 West St. PO Box 25, Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632 BT7 tri-carb >>
=====
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
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From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2002 23:03:35 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Gas milage.
The BN7 awaiting restoration was given to me by my next door neighbour
about four years ago. It sat in a garage across the street for about
25-30 years and was unknown to me. My neighbour is into VWs now but
years ago he had a fling with British cars. His work took him away for
weeks at a time and we only got to visit occasionally when he was home.
He admired my BT7 tricarb and we did considerable bench jawing over
the years.
Cutting this story short, one day he asked me if I would be interested
in a Mk I. What can I say - soon I was visiting his mother's garage
[she lived across the street from me] and upon opening it up, gazed
upon a MkI BN7 which showed 25 years of being a home for various
guests. The shift lever was frozen in neutral and the car would roll.
The tires [Firestones] even held air and in short order we pushed it
across the street and into my garage. It definitely needs to be
restored. The frame is too far gone and will have to be replace and
the panels need a lot of work. I have seen many basket cases where
someone has dismantled a car only to loose interest, and then it passes
from dreamer to dreamer. I promised myself that I would not start
restoring the car until I'm ready with the time, money and skills.
Really, it was a free gift that will cost me $40,000 to $50,000 [Cdn]
to restore. Is it for sale? Sorry, no. Not at this time.
--- Keith Pennell <pennell@whro.net> wrote: > > Scott Morris, Simcoe,
Ontario, Canada '62 BT7 Tricarb driver; '60 BN7 awaiting restoration
Scott, What is the condition of your BN7? Interested in selling it?
--Keith Pennell >>
=====
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
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From HealeyHundred at aol.com
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2002 01:04:28 EST
Subject: Re: Healey sightings
<< Does anyone try to get a copy of all the movies with Healeys in them?
(Richard???) >>
Hi Charley,
I'm trying, about 7 of 42 that I now have on the list.
Richard
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From "John Peak" <johnepeak at hotmail.com>
Date: Sat, 02 Nov 2002 22:16:12 -0800
Subject: Old Car Prices
Thought I'd torture myself for a while this evening and flip through a copy
of Hemmings from July 1976. Healey prices ranged from $750 for a V8 powered
100/6 to $3,250 for a fully restored 100/4. There were as many Allards for
sale as Healeys! Many Jags and Corvettes were offered for under $3,000.
How about a DB5 for $5,500? or a Gullwing for $12,500?
In 1976 I paid $2,500 for a Chevy LUV pickup. Sold it 10 years later for
$500. Guess I could have invested my money a little better! Oh well,
hindsight is always 20/20. Just thought you guys might get a kick out of
this.
John
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From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2002 07:03:55 -0600
Subject: Healey Sightings
Don
Bn7
"Life is not measured by the breaths we take but by the things that take our
breath away"
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From Stella67 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2002 10:06:48 EST
Subject: Re: re parts list
Over the years I have purchased parts from many of the vendors, if not all of
them. It is always interesting to see where each of the vendors obtain their
parts. I now order from just a few sources that I can trust. To help get
the quality of parts I really want, I let the vendors know when I place my
order I am looking for parts that are high quality meeting or exceeding
original specifications. The vendors are dealing with all sorts of buyer -
those that will take any part if it almost works and is cheap to those who
will not accept any thing that is not 100% perfect. Until the vendor gets to
know you, they won't know what kind of buyer you are.
When I order parts I really care about (I am buyer who isn't going to fight
on every part) I provide very specific written instructions for these item (I
create my own order form). In general, I tell them not to send me something
that isn't correct. Some vendors ignore my statements and I have to send
parts back - but then I challenge any charges to my card for the item and the
credit card company has supported me. However, many vendors do know their
products and what I expect. They do not sent me the item I requested if it
isn't correct, they appreciate me letting them know there is a problem and I
have had some tell me where I can get the best part (not often, but it has
happened).
Finding and buying parts takes longer then restoring the car. It's almost
like an Easter egg hunt, sometimes you find a really good one, sometimes the
egg isn't quite cooked.
Good luck,
John
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 02:16:15 +1100
Subject: repainting an original Lucas bakelite distributor cap?
Has anyone tried to strip & repaint an original Lucas bakelite distributor
cap?? Some Lucas caps (mostly 4 cyl & earlier 6cyl) I've seen are sort of
ebony coloured bakelite - but others (eg some BJ8, Lucas 25D type) are brown
bakelite 'inside' - and are painted gloss black on the outside. And they look
tacky when they get scratched, or get splashed with brake fluid (RHD cars have
their brake fluid reseviours close to the distributor)!
So - anyone done this? Did you just use paintstripper and respray with aerosol
black? Sand it first? Any ideas? Should I just get a life?
Thanks in advance.
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
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From Slvrbulit2 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2002 12:11:59 EST
Subject: re: repainting an original Lucas bakelite distributor cap?
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From Grglmn at cs.com
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2002 12:19:42 EST
Subject: repainting bakelite distributor cap
I don't know about redoing a distributor cap, you would have to be careful
what finish you applied, you would not want anything that had any propesity
to conduct electricity or you might get arcing.
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From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2002 12:50:42 EST
Subject: Re: Healey Sightings
Rick
San Diego
I was sorta gathering a list a couple of years back but got lazy. My website
has stills from Father of the Bride, State Fair and Herbiew the Love Bug.
http://members.aol.com/wilko click the link in the top right of the three
little cars.
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From "GM" <altec210 at yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2002 12:55:39 -0500
Subject: Re: repainting an original Lucas bakelite distributor cap?
GM
----- Original Message -----
> Isn't bakelite black in color without paint and when it starts to
deteriorate
> with age then it turns brown?
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From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2002 13:07:39 EST
Subject: Re: repainting an original Lucas bakelite distributor cap?
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From "R.Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 03 Nov 2002 14:45:13 -0800
Subject: Correct nuts, bolts and screws
Am I correct?
Bob Denton
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From "rdavies" <rdavies at cox.net>
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2002 14:10:08 -0800
Subject: RE: Old Car Prices
Subject: Old Car Prices
List,
Thought I'd torture myself for a while this evening and flip through a copy
of Hemmings from July 1976. Healey prices ranged from $750 for a V8 powered
100/6 to $3,250 for a fully restored 100/4. There were as many Allards for
sale as Healeys! Many Jags and Corvettes were offered for under $3,000.
How about a DB5 for $5,500? or a Gullwing for $12,500?
In 1976 I paid $2,500 for a Chevy LUV pickup. Sold it 10 years later for
$500. Guess I could have invested my money a little better! Oh well,
hindsight is always 20/20. Just thought you guys might get a kick out of
this.
John
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From "Franck Vigneron" <franckv at hotmail.com>
Date: Sun, 03 Nov 2002 22:52:57 +0000
Subject: Orange County CA Healey Club???
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From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2002 17:55:07 EST
Subject: Re: prices
> I don't keep up to date on what prices are these days. Looking at the
> want ads in the back of the club magazines will give you some ball park
> indication.
>
> A truly pristine BN1/2 (more accurate in the fine details than most
> concours
> cars), such as I would regard mine as being, I would value at $50-$60k. A
>
> "concours gold" quality one should bring $40-50k at auction. A really nice
>
> driver, well done but needing details fixed up to bring it up to "gold"
> level
> I would place in the a$30-40k range. A cosmetic ground-up wwith many items
>
> wrong, but well done, I would value around $20-30k. An good original car
> needing restoration, but running, is in the $10-20k range (most definitely
> depending on condition!!!), while a non-running one, depending on the
> degree
> of rust, etc. could be anywhere from $4-10k.
>
> These are just my estimates and I'm sure others will disagree. However,
> prices for really good Healeys, at least ones that look "great" to the
> uninitiated, are going up over the past year and $50-60k is not that
> unheard
> of for these cars at recent auctions. And most of these "top-price" cars
> would score only 95-96 points in concours "as-is" -- i.e. they have a
> number
> of details wrong that one would want to set straight.
>
> Roger
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From dwflagg at juno.com
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2002 19:58:56 -0500
Subject: Re: Ammeter
Happy Healeying,
Doug
'56 BN2
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From "Pete Ryner" <pryner at interfold.com>
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2002 18:23:21 -0700
Subject: Some to look at a healey
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2002 17:26:41 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Healey Sightings
I wish I knew which episode it was... but there was an
episode of the Simpsons in the first or second season
which featured Marge riding in a Healey with a very
handsome man on a Mountain road.
This particular cartoon sighting was unique in that
the illustrator must have been a healey owner - the
car was correct in every detail down to the smiths
tachometer!
I think the car was a BT7 Mk I - correct to the grille
and everything.... Wish I knew the episode # but
unfortunately....
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- WilKo@aol.com wrote:
> Friday I saw Spiderman for the first time. Yeah, I
> saw the Healey.
> then last night I saw "The Royal Tenebaums" with
> it's Healey all over the
> place...
>
> Rick
> San Diego
>
> I was sorta gathering a list a couple of years back
> but got lazy. My website
> has stills from Father of the Bride, State Fair and
> Herbiew the Love Bug.
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From Neil McDonald <nimcdonald at shaw.ca>
Date: Sun, 03 Nov 2002 17:41:57 -0800
Subject: Fixing Shock Absorbers
I have never opened up a shock to see exactly how they worked - but I
understand the general idea of damping by using a valve to restrict the flow of
hydraulic fluid when the car hits a bump. Is it possible that replacing this
valve will fix the shock, or is there something else internally that
contributes to the problem, i.e. fluid blowby on a worn piston?
Neil McDonald
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Sun, 03 Nov 2002 20:18:51 -0800
Subject: Re: Fixing Shock Absorbers
-Roland
On Sun, 03 Nov 2002 17:41:57 -0800, Neil McDonald <nimcdonald@shaw.ca>
wrote:
:: The front shocks on my 100/6 no longer work and need repair or replacement.
:From what I hear, many old shocks suffer from fluid leakage and without fluid
:they can obviously not do their job. Mine do not leak!
::
:: I have never opened up a shock to see exactly how they worked - but I
:understand the general idea of damping by using a valve to restrict the flow
:of hydraulic fluid when the car hits a bump. Is it possible that replacing
:this valve will fix the shock, or is there something else internally that
:contributes to the problem, i.e. fluid blowby on a worn piston?
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From skip <tfsbj7 at mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 03 Nov 2002 23:40:36 -0500
Subject: Re: Correct nuts, bolts and screwsx-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
www.anglo-parts.com
(but their web site doesn't seem to be up at the moment0, ...
you might try calling them. This is their phone number:
32.15.42 37 83
they are in Mechelen, Belgium
-skip-
"R.Denton, Auburn Design Group" wrote:
>
> A friend of mine asked where he could obtain correct nuts, bolts and
> screws for 100-6. With the correct markings on them. I told him that I
> didn't think anyone had them and he would have to scavange and scrounge.
>
> Am I correct?
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From "rdavies" <rdavies at cox.net>
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2002 21:01:06 -0800
Subject: RE: Some to look at a healey
To: healey
Subject: Some to look at a healey
I'm new to the healey list and am looking to purchase a BJ8. Had one years
ago and let it get away. Anyway, there are a couple on ebay t
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From Grglmn at cs.com
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 00:21:39 EST
Subject: rebuilding shock absorbers
-Roland
Excellent point, if they not leaking maybe because there is nothing to leak
out.
Greg L.
54 BN1
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From MeditionM at netscape.net
Date: Mon, 04 Nov 2002 01:15:32 -0500
Subject: RE: Orange County CA Healey Club???
Try:Austin Healey Association
16555 E. Murphey Rd.
La Mirada, CA 90638
or: Ralph Comito (Membership chairman) <rcomito@uia.net>
Phone 909/985-6481
Ken Mason
"Franck Vigneron" <franckv@hotmail.com> wrote:
>Dear Healey Emailers,
>I live in Orange County California and I am looking for a Healey club. Do
>you know of any?
>Thanks Franck
>
>
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Sun, 03 Nov 2002 23:28:59 -0800
Subject: Re: Some to look at a healey
rdavies wrote:
> Pete:
> Be VERY careful about auctions and buying sight unseen unless you win
> lotteries regularly. Few are that lucky.
> I
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From HealeyBJ7 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 06:23:37 EST
Subject: Brake lights
Any thoughts on this and how to fix it or what to look for?
TIA
Bob
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 05:48:50 -0600
Subject: Re: Some to look at a healey
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From Rick Swain <grain at auracom.com>
Date: Mon, 04 Nov 2002 07:58:00 -0400
Subject: Paint questions
The brake drums on 100-6s are painted the same silver-grey as the wheels. I
have found a source for this colour but not in a high temperature paint. Is
this necessary for the brake drums?
The second question has to do with the colour of rally cars. I know the 60's
rally Healeys were red but I have seen black and white photos of a 1958 car
UOC 741 that has a two-tone paint job. What were those colours?
Cheers
Rick Swain
1959 BN4
It's Monday morning and, although it's sunny in Nova Scotia, the temperature
when I got up was -8.8 (that's celsius). There's ice on the lake beside my
house. Driving season is over and repair/renovation/restoration season is
here.
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 08:54:24 EST
Subject: Re: Someone to look at a healey
I started looking for a well-restored BN7 about a year ago and quickly found
that if I restricted my search to cars that were within a day's driving
distance I was highly unlikely to find many candidates, so I began to pursue
ads that would naturally require inspections by others. Since qualified
professionals charge anywhere between $100-300 to go over a car I spent a
fair amount of time on qualifying candidates--talking to the sellers and/or
examining photos--and was thereby able to eliminate those that did not fit
within my parameters. Still, I paid to have two cars inspected and
ultimately walked from the deals, thus incurring a few hundred dollars in
fees without having bought anything other than useful information about cars
that were not to be mine.
About two months ago I learned from a member of this list of a car for sale
on Ebay and began to investigate it. It had already been inspected by a
well-qualified Healey owner whose objections were on points of
originality--issues that did not necessarily matter to me. The car was
located in South Florida and I called my friend Marion Brantley who referred
me to a respected restoration shop that was willing to do an inspection
(naturally, for a fee). After I agreed to give him the report were I not to
proceed with the purchase, the seller paid to have the car taken there on a
rollback and the results were most encouraging. On the strength of the
comments I was able to negotiate a sale and transportation north. The car
has since arrived and, while I have not yet torn down the engine to inspect
the condition of all bearing faces, all indications are that I got a very
nice car that had been restored extremely well. As far as I can tell, I got
more than I bargained for.
While I will admit that the most disconcerting part of such a process is
having to rely upon the opinions of others, at the same time why should we
automatically assume that our assessment is the "sine qua none" of accuracy
and that we could not secure as good or better an appraisal from a
disinterested, suitably qualified and compensated professional? Deciding to
go this route certainly opened up many more options to me. And let us keep
in mind that we are, after all, talking about cars that are 40-50 years old,
and no matter how well one goes over them, latent defects are always lurking.
One car that I saw in Hemmings was sold by a reputable owner to an
apparently smart buyer the day before I got there and I kicked myself in the
ass for not having acted more quickly. The report I later received was that
a few hundred miles after the car's delivery the nut securing the front
pulley came undone, resulting in the new owner's having to buy a radiator and
repair the resulting shroud damage.
Go figure....
Based upon my experience, I think it is possible to successfully buy a car
sight-unseen providing one is willing to establish in advance what one wants
and is roughly willing to pay for it, and invests the time in searching and
utilizing the various resources available to us. Also, a bit of luck
couldn't hurt!
And for those who are rushing off to the Ebay archives, I can only tell you
that the sales prices shown are not always accurate reflections of what
consideration ultimately changes hands--after all was said and done I was
able to negotiate the selling price down from the "winning bid" as apparently
the seller had misgivings about another bidder's intentions or abilities to
actually concude the sale. Also, I naturally did not pay for the car until I
had both it and the executed title in hand and had a chance to see and drive
it.
Best and good luck to all--
Michael Oritt--100 Le Mans and BN7
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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 07:23:43 -0700
Subject: Re: Fixing Shock Absorbers
Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: "Neil McDonald" <nimcdonald@shaw.ca>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, November 03, 2002 6:41 PM
Subject: Fixing Shock Absorbers
> The front shocks on my 100/6 no longer work and need repair or
replacement. From what I hear, many old shocks suffer from fluid leakage and
without fluid they can obviously not do their job. Mine do not leak!
>
> I have never opened up a shock to see exactly how they worked - but I
understand the general idea of damping by using a valve to restrict the flow
of hydraulic fluid when the car hits a bump. Is it possible that replacing
this valve will fix the shock, or is there something else internally that
contributes to the problem, i.e. fluid blowby on a worn piston?
>
> Neil McDonald
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From "coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 06:41:14 -0800
Subject: Re: Someone to look at a healey
Excellent photos can easily hide problems that are buried deep within. Well
meaning but clueless POs can represent cars as in X condition never knowing
that they are really Y condition. Friends and Healey club buddies may know
a bit about the car and its owner but will have no intimate knowledge about
the car.
In my case the car had been in a serious rear ender in its prior life and
the fellow I bought the car from didn't even know it. Of course it had been
repaired and pretty well, but in such a sneaky way that all evidence of said
repair was hidden beneath body panels. Until we started stripping the car
for restoration none of us had a clue what was to be found along the way.
This isn't a story about that though. Just a reminder that if you are
planning to buy a Healey sight unseen (or if you do not consider yourself an
expert in these things) spend the extra bucks to have an expert go over the
car with a fine tooth comb and report back on every important component of
the car, especially underneath where the story of your car's life is there
to be told.
Cheers. Coop
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From "rdavies" <rdavies at cox.net>
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 06:47:30 -0800
Subject: RE: Fixing Shock Absorbers
The front shocks on my 100/6 no longer work and need repair or replacement.
>From what I hear, many old shocks suffer from fluid leakage and without
fluid they can obviously not do their job. Mine do not leak!
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From "rdavies" <rdavies at cox.net>
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 06:59:01 -0800
Subject: RE: Orange County CA Healey Club???
Dear Healey Emailers,
I live in Orange County California and I am looking for a Healey club. Do
you know of any?
Thanks Franck
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From "Paul Negus" <Paul.Negus at iplbath.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 15:07:04 -0000
Subject: RE: Orange County CA Healey Club???
Yes - it is.
I spent much fruitless effort using various enamels, etc, until finally I had
mine powder coated. There have also been many reports of listers having success
with high temperature paint.
Regards
Paul
Longbridge BN4
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Mon, 04 Nov 2002 07:58:00 -0400
From: Rick Swain <grain@auracom.com>
Subject: Paint questions
I have 2 paint questions, one practical, the second more a trivia question.
The brake drums on 100-6s are painted the same silver-grey as the wheels. I
have found a source for this colour but not in a high temperature paint. Is
this necessary for the brake drums?
<snipped>
Cheers
Rick Swain
1959 BN4
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From N0040 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 12:22:06 EST
Subject: Re: Brake lights
I'll take a stab at this.
Glowing lights might be an indication of a possible frayed wire or connection
causing the negative voltage (in a positive ground car) in your brake light
wire(s) to build up somewhere but is not a direct short.
If the BJ7 is the same as a BJ8, there is a hydraulic pressure switch the
turns the brake lights "on". That type of switch should not have an
"intermediate position" where it's only partially on (that is, there should
not be a current leak across the open contact of the switch). If you had a
brake light wire or connection that is picking up a voltage source slowly,
like through painted metal or a corrosion point, or a small strand in
stranded wire. The fact that the light goes on correctly with the brake
applied would indicate your ground connection for the light is good.
If the stabbing the brake caused the same problem I would look at the ground
connection in the brake lights for corrosion or poor connection.
Regards,
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI
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From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 12:37:35 EST
Subject: Re: Healey Sightings
In a message dated 11/3/02 17:26:40, international_investor@yahoo.com writes:
<< Rick -
I wish I knew which episode it was... but there was an
episode of the Simpsons in the first or second season
which featured Marge riding in a Healey with a very
handsome man on a Mountain road.
This particular cartoon sighting was unique in that
the illustrator must have been a healey owner - the
car was correct in every detail down to the smiths
tachometer!
I think the car was a BT7 Mk I - correct to the grille
and everything.... Wish I knew the episode # but
unfortunately....
Cheers,
Alan >>
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From "Sam Marble" <samncyna at attbi.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 13:13:48 -0500
Subject: Early BT7
Is there anything that would prevent replacing the grill with the
proper horizontal grill ?
Is there any intrinsic value to the car being in standard equipped
form due to it's relative rarity vs. upgrading to overdrive for
drivability purposes? (I like the idea of the disk wheels for the same
reason.)
Would a non overdive BT7 have the higher ratio rear end (which would
make it even better for highway cruising with overdrive) ?
The engine was equipped with the "automatic" choke assembly that I
also understand was found on early BT7's. Can this easily be converted
to manual ? Again, would this affect the car's value vs. being
restored intact ?
I'd appreciate any thoughts.
Sam
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From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 13:14:34 EST
Subject: Re: Thanks
<< MY 1958 bn4 needs sidecurtains are they different from a rag top and a
hard top.Than I wood need two sets. Thanks Steven
>>
If your interior is the same as the BT7, then those sidecurtains will fit.
The sidecurtains are designed to fit with both the hard top and soft top, and
are made for the late BN4, BN6, BN7, and BT7 -- all the same.
Cheers
Gary
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From "Casarona, Paul" <pcasarona at auburnschools.org>
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 14:06:58 -0600
Subject: BN6 Original Owner's Handbook
Thanks,
Paul
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From "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 04 Nov 2002 15:37:42 -0600
Subject: Re: BN6 Original Owner's Handbook
Bob Denton
"Casarona, Paul" wrote:
> Hi all,
> Sorry to tag on to Perry's note, but since it is on the same subject
> I'm looking for an original BN6 handbook. I have (in exchange or for sale
> outright) an original BN4 in mint condition and a reproduction BN4 handbook
> (brand new) that I will let anyone interested have for less than what I have
> in them. I'm not looking to make money (will even lose some) I just want
> the correct book for my car.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Paul
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From "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 04 Nov 2002 16:16:53 -0600
Subject: Barrett Jackson correction
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From "Tom White" <racerx at swcp.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 14:23:59 -0700
Subject: looking for title
Many thanks,
Tom White
58 BN6
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 16:47:48 -0500
Subject: Re: Paint questions
Painted the drums on the BJ8 many years ago with off the shelf Al paint. No
deterioration or chipping since. Unless you drive hard as in racing I see
no need for anything special.
On the rally cars . . . ????????????
Keith Pennell
> I have 2 paint questions, one practical, the second more a trivia
question.
>
> The brake drums on 100-6s are painted the same silver-grey as the wheels.
I
> have found a source for this colour but not in a high temperature paint.
Is
> this necessary for the brake drums?
>
> The second question has to do with the colour of rally cars. I know the
60's
> rally Healeys were red but I have seen black and white photos of a 1958
car
> UOC 741 that has a two-tone paint job. What were those colours?
>
> Cheers
>
> Rick Swain
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From Jon McLeroy <jfm at ballistic.com>
Date: Mon, 04 Nov 2002 16:22:42 -0600
Subject: British Car Magazine 100th Edition
I just received your Special Collectors Edition Issue 100 and its great.
The article on Open Roads 2002 is very well done and supported with great
pictures.
All in all one of the best issues to date. Keep up the good work.
God Bless
Jon
Classic Auto Lubes
12803 CR 1222
Tyler, Tx. 75709
Ph: 903-561-4858
Fax: 903-561-7177
Email: jfm@ballistic.com
www.classicautolubes.com
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From "John Peak" <johnepeak at hotmail.com>
Date: Mon, 04 Nov 2002 15:05:10 -0800
Subject: Re: Early BT7
I am sure the rest of the list will correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't
think anything would prevent you from changing the grille to the earlier
style. I think the only parts that differ (other than the grille assembly)
are the air deflector and the clips on the lower shroud, and you may be able
to use the later ones with the early grille. I would however be very wary
of a car that was hit hard enough to require having the front clip replaced.
As to the value of standard cars, the disc wheels and lack of overdrive
reduce the market value by maybe $1500 to $3000. This is approximately the
cost of converting to wire wheels and overdrive. I have a BN4 for sale with
disc wheels and those who have looked at it have all said they prefer wire
wheels. It does have overdrive and the non-overdrive axle ratio. This
combination is much better suited to today's driving speeds.
As far as the choke is concerned, I think a conversion kit is available but
don't know for sure. I'm sure someone else knows.
Good luck and be careful,
John
'58 BN4
'59 BN7
>From: "Sam Marble" <samncyna@attbi.com>
>Reply-To: "Sam Marble" <samncyna@attbi.com>
>To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Early BT7
>Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 13:13:48 -0500
>
>Listers:
>I ran into an interesting early BT7 for sale that was imported (and
>still is) in "standard"
>equipped form (ie: disk wheels, no overdrive).
>In the early 60's the front clip (chassis from about the front shock
>towers foreward) and front shroud had been replaced by a dealership
>(probably an accident). The car now has a MK2 (verticle) grill. and
>MK2 badging. but is obviously an early (1959) BT7 as the current owner
>acknowledges.
>My questions to the list are:
>
>Is there anything that would prevent replacing the grill with the
>proper horizontal grill ?
>
>Is there any intrinsic value to the car being in standard equipped
>form due to it's relative rarity vs. upgrading to overdrive for
>drivability purposes? (I like the idea of the disk wheels for the same
>reason.)
>
>Would a non overdive BT7 have the higher ratio rear end (which would
>make it even better for highway cruising with overdrive) ?
>
>The engine was equipped with the "automatic" choke assembly that I
>also understand was found on early BT7's. Can this easily be converted
>to manual ? Again, would this affect the car's value vs. being
>restored intact ?
>
>I'd appreciate any thoughts.
>
>Sam
_________________________________________________________________
Protect your PC - get McAfee.com VirusScan Online
http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963
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From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 04 Nov 2002 17:10:31 -0600
Subject: Non Healey part -side marker light Lucas
Looking for a supplier with Lucas side marker lights, in particular I am looking
for a lens No. 938648 P1 69 L841 red in colour which fits over a base T8/4 4W.
The light assembly is constructed of a flat rectangular reflector and square
red lens which has a lamp behind it. The reflector and lens are held in place
with a chrome bezel. I have checked Holden catalogue and the Moss catalogues I
have on hand without success. This unit is fitted to the left rear wing of my
Morgan 4/4 as an auxiliary, non factory addition. Any suppliers names, etc.,
or assistance would be greatly appreciated.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
'65 BJ8
'89 Morgan 4/4
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From Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: stjepkem@optonline.net
Date: Mon, 04 Nov 2002 16:16:29 -0500
Subject: Fw: car pictures
enjoy
----- Original Message -----
From: Shtjsh@aol.com
To: stjepkem@optonline.net
Sent: Monday, November 04, 2002 11:28 AM
Subject: Re: car pictures
SENDING YOU 1 PICTURESEE IF YOU GET IT RONNIE
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
Dscf0011.jpg]
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From Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: stjepkem@optonline.net
Date: Mon, 04 Nov 2002 18:38:38 -0500
Subject: side curtains
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: stjepkem@optonline.net
Date: Mon, 04 Nov 2002 19:04:19 -0500
Subject: Re: 58bn4
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
04, 2002 6:27 PM
Subject: 58bn4
> Hi everybody heres a picture of my healey the picture makes it look, good
but the paint is tired
> Return-path: <stjepkem@optonline.net>
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: stjepkem@optonline.net
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 19:57:09 EST
Subject: Re: 58bn4
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
In a message dated 11/4/02 4:09:59 PM, healey6@optonline.net writes:
<< Stephen, you can not send attachments on this list. I am sure that a lot of
us would like to see how your car turned out. Is there a web site you can
post the foto to and then let us know?
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
04, 2002 6:27 PM
Subject: 58bn4
> Hi everybody heres a picture of my healey the picture makes it look, good
but the paint is tired
> Return-path: <stjepkem@optonline.net> >>
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From "Ryan at Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
From: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: stjepkem@optonline.net
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 21:00:02 -0500
Subject: Strange engine color - ??
I am repainting the parts on my 1961 3000 Mk I engine and I have several parts
related to the carburetors which are painted a color I'd call Ford Blue. Maybe
it is royal blue. The parts are the cross breathing pipe from the crank case
to the carburetor, the air filters, and the support piece for the choke
cable.
Any idea why these aren't the usual Healey engine green?
Ryan
BJ7 - older engine
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From "Ryan at Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
From: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: stjepkem@optonline.net
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 21:07:33 -0500
Subject: paper oil filters - what is the NAPA part numbe
BTW, if anyone has an opinion on filters that are better than the simple paper
canisters, feel free to reply. I once had a really neat cloth/felt oil
filter, but it was expensive and I never bought another one.
Ryan
BJ7
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From John May <jdmay at attglobal.net>
From: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: stjepkem@optonline.net
Date: Mon, 04 Nov 2002 22:02:22 -0500
Subject: Re: Non Healey part -side marker light Lucas
M.E. & E.A. Driver wrote:
> Hi Folks
>
> Looking for a supplier with Lucas side marker lights, in particular I am
>looking
> for a lens No. 938648 P1 69 L841 red in colour which fits over a base T8/4
>4W.
> The light assembly is constructed of a flat rectangular reflector and square
> red lens which has a lamp behind it. The reflector and lens are held in place
> with a chrome bezel. I have checked Holden catalogue and the Moss
>catalogues I
> have on hand without success. This unit is fitted to the left rear wing of my
> Morgan 4/4 as an auxiliary, non factory addition. Any suppliers names, etc.,
> or assistance would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Kind regards
> Ed
> Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
> '65 BJ8
> '89 Morgan 4/4
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From Austin Healey <ah62bn7 at yahoo.com>
From: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: stjepkem@optonline.net
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 19:16:24 -0800 (PST)
Subject: The best Healey story ever
Since I'm reading all these messages about finding a
Healey to love, and feeling your pain, here's my
inspirational message of hope, bordering on the
religious.
In 1967, my father, who cared nothing for cars and
knew me to be a car fanatic, asked me what car we
should buy, stipulating that it had to be a practical
family car. I said, "how about an ice blue
Austin-Healey 3000?" because it had a back seat
(meaning ample room for 4) and would be a lot of fun.
He and my mother paid $2900, went to England, picked
it up, drove it around England for a week, and brought
it back to Philadelphia, where at 16 years old, I
drove it everyday to high school in my senior year, if
you can stand to hear that. Business reversal forced
its sale after the best ten months of my life. I felt
as though I had lost a kidney, or worse, and I never
stopped mourning the loss.
After 33 years of making the stupidest possible car
purchases based solely on emotion (Peugeot 403, 404,
504, 1963 Jaguar E-type 3.8 crashed 30 minutes after a
140mph speedrun on the Garden State Parkway, 66 MGB,
66 Rover 200TC, 70 Rover 3500S, etc, ad nauseum), I
moved to Tucson, Arizona, the automotive time-warp
capitol of the world (no rust).
Obviously, God saw me in the role of Job and decided I
had suffered enough. You can see what happened to me
at:
http://www.caymanconferences.com/corvette/62bn7.htm
With help from eBay, the incredibly knowledgeable
Nocks of British Car Specialists, and my great local
British car mechanic and Moss distributor here in
Tucson, my 62 BN7 tri-carb and I are now complete,
although still needing paint and an interior. Enjoy
the pictures. By the way, I paid $9,000. Did I pay too
much?
Bob S.
__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
HotJobs - Search new jobs daily now
http://hotjobs.yahoo.com/
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From "rob" <rob at iwjlaw.com>
From: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: stjepkem@optonline.net
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 19:52:27 -0800
Subject: Paint color
Regards,
Rob White
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From "Jerry Costanzo" <grumpyingb at surewest.net>
From: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: stjepkem@optonline.net
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 21:22:05 -0800
Subject: Disk brake instructions
Can anyone fax me the write up on disk brake installation that is in the July
issue of Austin Healey Magazine?
Also, if anyone has any tips on installing a Denis Welch disk brake kit, I
would love to hear from you.
Jerry
BN4
Fax 916-791-2569
Thanks
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: stjepkem@optonline.net
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 21:38:31 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: The best Healey story ever
The story could've only been better if it involved
having sex in the front seat. By the way, the 100S is
only slightly more rare at 55 copies....
Cheers & congrats!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Austin Healey <ah62bn7@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> Since I'm reading all these messages about finding a
> Healey to love, and feeling your pain, here's my
> inspirational message of hope, bordering on the
> religious.
>
> In 1967, my father, who cared nothing for cars and
> knew me to be a car fanatic, asked me what car we
> should buy, stipulating that it had to be a
> practical
> family car. I said, "how about an ice blue
> Austin-Healey 3000?" because it had a back seat
> (meaning ample room for 4) and would be a lot of
> fun.
> He and my mother paid $2900, went to England, picked
> it up, drove it around England for a week, and
> brought
> it back to Philadelphia, where at 16 years old, I
> drove it everyday to high school in my senior year,
> if
> you can stand to hear that. Business reversal forced
> its sale after the best ten months of my life. I
> felt
> as though I had lost a kidney, or worse, and I never
> stopped mourning the loss.
>
> After 33 years of making the stupidest possible car
> purchases based solely on emotion (Peugeot 403, 404,
> 504, 1963 Jaguar E-type 3.8 crashed 30 minutes after
> a
> 140mph speedrun on the Garden State Parkway, 66 MGB,
> 66 Rover 200TC, 70 Rover 3500S, etc, ad nauseum), I
> moved to Tucson, Arizona, the automotive time-warp
> capitol of the world (no rust).
>
> Obviously, God saw me in the role of Job and decided
> I
> had suffered enough. You can see what happened to me
> at:
>
> http://www.caymanconferences.com/corvette/62bn7.htm
>
> With help from eBay, the incredibly knowledgeable
> Nocks of British Car Specialists, and my great local
> British car mechanic and Moss distributor here in
> Tucson, my 62 BN7 tri-carb and I are now complete,
> although still needing paint and an interior. Enjoy
> the pictures. By the way, I paid $9,000. Did I pay
> too
> much?
>
> Bob S.
>
>
>
> __________________________________________________
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From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: stjepkem@optonline.net
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 03:15:47 EST
Subject: Re: 100 Poor Running
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: stjepkem@optonline.net
Date: Tue, 05 Nov 2002 02:00:20 -0800
Subject: Re: 100 Poor Running
Except for "runs great for 20 minutes" it sounds like something plugging
the exhaust.
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> Listers
> A friends 100 runs great for 20 minutes or so then starts acting like the
> carbs are running low in the fuel bowls. No so after checking them. Engine
> will start and idle, all be it rough but not rev and under load won't get out
> of it's own way. Ignition is optic electronic and changing to a back up cap,
> rotor and wires does't fix the problem. Fuel system is clean as a whistle
> front to back and the SU pump is working at normal delivery rates and
> pressure. Temp never goes above 180 F. Any ideas?
> Aloha
> Perry
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: stjepkem@optonline.net
Date: Tue, 05 Nov 2002 02:05:36 -0800
Subject: Re: The best Healey story ever
WRT: "I paid $9,000. Did I pay too much?"
You got thoroughly taken to the cleaners. How 'bout I take if off your
hands for you ;)
I think someone looking for a car like this might pay (at least) twice as much.
(The Other) Bob S.
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> Hi all,
>
> Since I'm reading all these messages about finding a
> Healey to love, and feeling your pain, here's my
> inspirational message of hope, bordering on the
> religious.
>
> In 1967, my father, who cared nothing for cars and
> knew me to be a car fanatic, asked me what car we
> should buy, stipulating that it had to be a practical
> family car. I said, "how about an ice blue
> Austin-Healey 3000?" because it had a back seat
> (meaning ample room for 4) and would be a lot of fun.
> He and my mother paid $2900, went to England, picked
> it up, drove it around England for a week, and brought
> it back to Philadelphia, where at 16 years old, I
> drove it everyday to high school in my senior year, if
> you can stand to hear that. Business reversal forced
> its sale after the best ten months of my life. I felt
> as though I had lost a kidney, or worse, and I never
> stopped mourning the loss.
>
> After 33 years of making the stupidest possible car
> purchases based solely on emotion (Peugeot 403, 404,
> 504, 1963 Jaguar E-type 3.8 crashed 30 minutes after a
> 140mph speedrun on the Garden State Parkway, 66 MGB,
> 66 Rover 200TC, 70 Rover 3500S, etc, ad nauseum), I
> moved to Tucson, Arizona, the automotive time-warp
> capitol of the world (no rust).
>
> Obviously, God saw me in the role of Job and decided I
> had suffered enough. You can see what happened to me
> at:
>
> http://www.caymanconferences.com/corvette/62bn7.htm
>
> With help from eBay, the incredibly knowledgeable
> Nocks of British Car Specialists, and my great local
> British car mechanic and Moss distributor here in
> Tucson, my 62 BN7 tri-carb and I are now complete,
> although still needing paint and an interior. Enjoy
> the pictures. By the way, I paid $9,000. Did I pay too
> much?
>
> Bob S.
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From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: stjepkem@optonline.net
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 05:30:01 -0600
Subject: Greatest Healey Story Ever
Bob S."
Maybe you paid too much but not likely.
These kind of "found it in a barn" stories are great, however when reality sets
in, how often does this happen?
I, too, bought a BN7 two seat tri-carb center shift that was sold on a
mechanics lien. I can't help but wonder sometimes what circumstances led the
original owner to put the car in the shop and why they couldn't get it out.
In this case, it sounds as though the rightful owner didn't even know the car
was being held on a mechanics lien.
Don
BN7
(paid $1200 for it in 1974)
"Life is not measured by the breaths we take but by the things that take our
breath away"
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: stjepkem@optonline.net
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 06:14:45 -0600
Subject: Re: Strange engine color - ??
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: stjepkem@optonline.net
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 06:18:22 -0600
Subject: Re: paper oil filters - what is the NAPA part numbe
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: stjepkem@optonline.net
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 07:40:38 -0500
Subject: RE: 100 Poor Running
I had one with what sounds like the same problem about 20 years ago. Try
this. When the engine starts it misbehavin' pour some cold water over
the carburetors (try to avoid cracking the exhaust manifold) and
immediately try to drive again.
If it runs OK for a short while the problem is overheating of the bottom
of the carburetors causing the fuel to boil before it reaches the jets.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Healeyguy@aol.com
Sent: 5-Nov-02 3:16 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: 100 Poor Running
Listers
A friends 100 runs great for 20 minutes or so then starts acting like
the
carbs are running low in the fuel bowls. No so after checking them.
Engine
will start and idle, all be it rough but not rev and under load won't
get out
of it's own way. Ignition is optic electronic and changing to a back up
cap,
rotor and wires does't fix the problem. Fuel system is clean as a
whistle
front to back and the SU pump is working at normal delivery rates and
pressure. Temp never goes above 180 F. Any ideas?
Aloha
Perry
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: stjepkem@optonline.net
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 07:40:54 -0500
Subject: Re: 100 Poor Running
If the fuel flow has been confirmed to be adequite *while* these symptoms are
going on, and the carbs are O.K. (floats not sticking, pistons free to move),
then that pretty well narrows it down to ignition, no?
When he changed the cap, rotor and wires, he was still using the same
ignition sensor, module and coil, right?
What does the exhaust smell like while this is going on?
--
John Miller, N4VU
"I'd love to go out with you, but the man on television told me to say tuned."
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: stjepkem@optonline.net
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 23:42:31 +1100
Subject: Re: Paint questions
I think hi temp paint is necessary - but my car does get used on the track.
My drums are painted with an off the shelf. aerosol - aluminium exhaust
manifold paint - probably not colour correct - but they look clean &
functional behind aluminium coloured centrelock minlite wheels.
I also painted the front calipers with the same hi temp aluminium paint.
The paint has stayed on all these parts for several years - but generally I
give them a freshen up (usually before our annual AHOC concours & display
day) - more to cover up the greasy fingerprints that seem to end up on my
drums (from changing diff ratios & checking linings) than because the paint
had worn/blistered off
I understand painting disk rotors is more problematic - fortunately - with a
100/6 - you don't have to consider this issue... :)
Regarding UOC741 - you are absolutely correct - page 214 of Browning's book
'The Works big healeys" has a black & white picture of UOC741 in two tone
paint! I have no idea what the actual colours were - I'd guess white below
the swage line - but that is very well spotted!!
Best regards
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
>
> > I have 2 paint questions, one practical, the second more a trivia
> question.
> >
> > The brake drums on 100-6s are painted the same silver-grey as the
wheels.
> I
> > have found a source for this colour but not in a high temperature paint.
> Is
> > this necessary for the brake drums?
> >
> > The second question has to do with the colour of rally cars. I know the
> 60's
> > rally Healeys were red but I have seen black and white photos of a 1958
> car
> > UOC 741 that has a two-tone paint job. What were those colours?
> >
> > Cheers
> >
> > Rick Swain
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: stjepkem@optonline.net
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 08:30:17 -0500
Subject: Re: The best Healey story ever
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
Mail to: clocks@jamesleaclocks.com
Web Page http://www.jamesleaclocks.com
NAWCC #12482 AWI #30820 BHI # 19609
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From "James Sailer" <heliskier at direcway.com>
From: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: stjepkem@optonline.net
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 07:22:58 -0700
Subject: Re: Subject: Paint questions
I too had mine powder coated.. A very similar silver grey... they will be
bullet proof and easy to clean... T'was about a $60 adventure though as the
silver/grey required clear over it..
jim Sailer66 BJ8 - comin' along
>From: Rick Swain <>
I have 2 paint questions, one practical, the second more a trivia question.
>The brake drums on 100-6s are painted the same silver-grey as the wheels. I
>have found a source for this colour but not in a high temperature paint. Is
>this necessary for the brake drums?
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: stjepkem@optonline.net
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 09:58:19 -0500
Subject: RE: The best Healey story ever
Congrats.
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Meanie"
Former cars: 1957 100-6 and 1967 BJ8 3000
Radio AI2Q
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: stjepkem@optonline.net
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 11:08:16 EST
Subject: Re: Non Healey part -side marker light Lucas
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
In a message dated 11/4/02 3:15:20 PM, edriver@sk.sympatico.ca writes:
<< Hi Folks
Looking for a supplier with Lucas side marker lights, in particular I am
looking
for a lens No. 938648 P1 69 L841 red in colour which fits over a base T8/4
4W.
The light assembly is constructed of a flat rectangular reflector and square
red lens which has a lamp behind it. The reflector and lens are held in place
with a chrome bezel. I have checked Holden catalogue and the Moss
catalogues I
have on hand without success. This unit is fitted to the left rear wing of my
Morgan 4/4 as an auxiliary, non factory addition. Any suppliers names, etc.,
or assistance would be greatly appreciated.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
'65 BJ8
'89 Morgan 4/4 >>
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From Jim Wood <jwood_kc at yahoo.com>
From: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: stjepkem@optonline.net
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 08:52:20 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Drainage channel (gutter) attachment
I am in the midst of probably the second most
satisfying stage of my BJ8 restoration; refitting the
body panels after countless hours of stripping and
refinishing. (the most satisfying was hearing the
engine start and run)
I am learning to appreciate the importance of taking
lots of photos during the tear down stage. Needless to
say, I did not take enough, so I will get on with my
question.
The drainage channel that fits around the rear shroud;
should it fit behind and underneath the rear shroud,
or does it fit on the outside, with the chrome
finisher on top?
I have loosely fit it with the shroud already in place
and the rivet holes are not lining up very well.
If it fits underneath the shroud, can it be installed
without removing the shroud completely?
Thanks,
Jim Wood
'67 BJ8
__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
HotJobs - Search new jobs daily now
http://hotjobs.yahoo.com/
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From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: stjepkem@optonline.net
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 11:57:30 EST
Subject: Re: repainting bakelite distributor cap
<< There was recently an article that I read about restoring bakelite pieces,
can't remember where I saw it (Moss Motoring? Healey Marque?, British Car?).
>>
Hi All,
That was my article that has been on Jim Werner's Healey Adventure website
for some time now.
http://hometown.aol.com/bgahc/jimwerner.html
Cheers,
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, Ca
'55 BN1, '60 AN5 :{)
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: stjepkem@optonline.net
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 12:22:39 EST
Subject: Re: Drainage channel (gutter) attachment
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Doug Miller <enginem at earthlink.net>
From: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: stjepkem@optonline.net
Date: Tue, 05 Nov 2002 09:30:56 -0800
Subject: Re: 100 Poor Running
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From Austin Healey <ah62bn7 at yahoo.com>
From: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: stjepkem@optonline.net
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 10:14:49 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Factory hardtop for 2 seaters on Ebay
Here's a really good hardtop for a 2 seater. I have no
connection to this.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1872009913&rd=1
Bob S.
62 BN7 tri-carb
__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
HotJobs - Search new jobs daily now
http://hotjobs.yahoo.com/
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From "simon.lachlan" <simon.lachlan at btopenworld.com>
From: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: stjepkem@optonline.net
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 19:15:34 -0000
Subject: Boot rack
Simon Lachlan
Comfort House
Bradninch
Devon EX5 4NN
UK
01392-882248
March1962 MkII
HBT7 18111 (29E/RU/H4590)
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: stjepkem@optonline.net
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 15:00:29 EST
Subject: Re: Strange engine color - ??
<< it is royal blue. The parts are the cross breathing pipe from the crank
case
to the carburetor, the air filters, and the support piece for the choke
cable.
Any idea why these aren't the usual Healey engine green?
Ryan >>
Sure; someone had a can of blue paint and thought it would look nice if he
painted the carb parts on his car with it. Haven't you ever found yourself
in the garage with an open can of paint and a brush in your hand, and looked
around for something else you could paint?
Cheers
Gary
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From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: stjepkem@optonline.net
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 08:36:06 +1100
Subject: Smoke
In my second career as a freelance motoring writer I am currently preparing
some words on vehicle electrics and what's on offer to classic car people in
Australia.
However what I would like to include in the article is an extract from the
"Smoke" piece. That's the funny story on how the wires in our cars hold in
smoke and if you let the smoke escape you then have problems.
Does anyone have the piece close at hand and can send it to me, please?
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: stjepkem@optonline.net
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 16:54:37 -0600
Subject: Re: 100 Poor Running
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From "Jerry Costanzo" <grumpyingb at surewest.net>
From: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: stjepkem@optonline.net
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 15:31:07 -0800
Subject: springs for the head
Jerry
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From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
From: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: stjepkem@optonline.net
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 18:57:41 -0500
Subject: RE: 100 Poor Running
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Healeyguy@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 05, 2002 3:16 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: 100 Poor Running
Listers
A friends 100 runs great for 20 minutes or so then starts acting like the
carbs are running low in the fuel bowls. No so after checking them. Engine
will start and idle, all be it rough but not rev and under load won't get
out
of it's own way. Ignition is optic electronic and changing to a back up
cap,
rotor and wires does't fix the problem. Fuel system is clean as a whistle
front to back and the SU pump is working at normal delivery rates and
pressure. Temp never goes above 180 F. Any ideas?
Aloha
Perry
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From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: stjepkem@optonline.net
Date: Tue, 05 Nov 2002 18:19:53 -0600
Subject: Lucas side marker light - a note of thanks
Many on the List are sports fans, and I note most are fans of commercials, well
many will have seen the commercials that the PGA run highlighting the skills as
well as the good deeds the many of the professional golfers. These commercials
usually end with a comment "these guys are good."
Well out of a simple request I posted last night concerning a Lucas side marker
light I received a great number of posts. What the body shop who is looking
after the repairs to my Morgan 4/4 could not accomplish in finding this part
over the last two months the List came through in less than 18 hours - I floored
and humbled and grateful for the help.
Some of you may know that very late last fall we had a 1/2 ton go through our
double attached garage damaging my 4/4. THe 1/2 ton was being pursued by five
police cars in a chase which started 15 miles north of Saskatoon. It took
considerable time the deal with insurance in regard to the house and the Morgan.
So getting the Morgan in for repairs took longer than I expected.
I would especially like to thank Marion Brantey (Florida - Marion hope you
managed to watch the Packers to the end!), John May (Arizona, thanks for the
photo and contacts), Jim Albeck (California), Michael Salter (Ontario), a
BATANS club mate David Munroe (Nova Scotia), David Nock (California) and Rick
Swain for all your suggestions, and offers! To the other not list, a big
thanks! All You guys are good!
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
'65 BJ8
'89 Morgan 4/4
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: stjepkem@optonline.net
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 19:24:53 -0500
Subject: Re: springs for the head
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Jerry Costanzo
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, November 05, 2002 6:31 PM
Subject: springs for the head
I have a head that is being rebuilt. How many of you replace the springs
when doing a rebuild? By the way, the old springs are a bit rusty.
Jerry
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From "Russ & Natalie Bamsey" <ia549 at worldchat.com>
From: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: stjepkem@optonline.net
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 20:16:41 -0500
Subject: Re: Fixing Shock Absorbers
----- Original Message -----
From: "Neil McDonald" <nimcdonald@shaw.ca>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, November 03, 2002 8:41 PM
Subject: Fixing Shock Absorbers
> The front shocks on my 100/6 no longer work and need repair or
replacement. From what I hear, many old shocks suffer from fluid leakage and
without fluid they can obviously not do their job. Mine do not leak!
>
> I have never opened up a shock to see exactly how they worked - but I
understand the general idea of damping by using a valve to restrict the flow
of hydraulic fluid when the car hits a bump. Is it possible that replacing
this valve will fix the shock, or is there something else internally that
contributes to the problem, i.e. fluid blowby on a worn piston?
>
> Neil McDonald
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From HealeyBJ7 at aol.com
From: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: stjepkem@optonline.net
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 21:26:33 EST
Subject: Gauge Restoration
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: stjepkem@optonline.net
Date: Tue, 05 Nov 2002 19:41:46 -0700
Subject: Re: 100 Poor Running
I think that the fiber washers that were used to
seal the joint between the
carburetor body and the float bowl are either too
thin or not resilient enough
and the hollow bolts that secure them expand when
they get warm and release
pressure on the washers which causes the joint to
leak. At that point the float
bowl starts to leak .
You will smell a strong fuel odor and the fuel
pump will work continuously.
Since there is no control of fuel flow the mixture
goes rich and the engine
tends to flood and carbon up.
This all happened to my car despite the fact that
the engine temp never reached
the top of the normal range. I've since replaced
the washers with thicker ones
(and the weather has cooled of) and the problem
has not recurred.
Bill Lawrence
Peter Schauss wrote:
> Bad coil?
>
> Peter Schauss
> Long Island, NY
> 1980 MGB
> 1963 BJ7
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Healeyguy@aol.com
> Sent: Tuesday, November 05, 2002 3:16 AM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: 100 Poor Running
>
> Listers
> A friends 100 runs great for 20 minutes or so then starts acting like the
> carbs are running low in the fuel bowls. No so after checking them. Engine
> will start and idle, all be it rough but not rev and under load won't get
> out
> of it's own way. Ignition is optic electronic and changing to a back up
> cap,
> rotor and wires does't fix the problem. Fuel system is clean as a whistle
> front to back and the SU pump is working at normal delivery rates and
> pressure. Temp never goes above 180 F. Any ideas?
> Aloha
> Perry
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From "Robert Wiley" <wileyrob at pacifier.com>
From: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: stjepkem@optonline.net
Date: Tue, 05 Nov 2002 19:27:11 -0800
Subject: Re: Gauge Restoration
Bob
----------
>From: HealeyBJ7@aol.com
>To: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Gauge Restoration
>Date: Tue, Nov 5, 2002, 6:26 PM
>
> Sorry to do this to the list.
> I know there was a string about this recently, but I don't seem to have any
> success with the archives.
> I need the name and number of the place to have gauges restored.
> TIA
> Bob
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: stjepkem@optonline.net
Date: Tue, 05 Nov 2002 20:40:54 -0700
Subject: Re: Gauge Restoration
HealeyBJ7@aol.com wrote:
> Sorry to do this to the list.
> I know there was a string about this recently, but I don't seem to have any
> success with the archives.
> I need the name and number of the place to have gauges restored.
> TIA
> Bob
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: stjepkem@optonline.net
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 19:51:13 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: springs for the head
My philosophy is if you are going through all that
trouble, you should replace the springs and valves and
install valve inserts as well so you can run unleaded
gas. Good springs are key to making sure you have
good high end horsepower - when the springs are used
and they start losing force, high end horspower can
really start to drop off...
FYI - I saw a set of new valve springs on Ebay
yesterday...
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Jerry Costanzo <grumpyingb@surewest.net> wrote:
> I have a head that is being rebuilt. How many of
> you replace the springs
> when doing a rebuild? By the way, the old springs
> are a bit rusty.
>
> Jerry
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From "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson at earthlink.net>
From: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: stjepkem@optonline.net
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 21:39:28 -0800
Subject: RE: springs for the head
Best,
Greg
67 BJ8
> -----Original Message-----
>
> I have a head that is being rebuilt. How many of you replace the springs
> when doing a rebuild? By the way, the old springs are a bit rusty.
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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: "Jerry Costanzo" <grumpyingb@surewest.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 07:27:48 -0700
Subject: springs for the head
> I have a head that is being rebuilt. How many of you replace the springs
> when doing a rebuild? By the way, the old springs are a bit rusty.
>
> Jerry
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From Jim Wood <jwood_kc at yahoo.com>
From: "Jerry Costanzo" <grumpyingb@surewest.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 06:37:17 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Drainage channel (gutter) attachment
Thanks, you are right as usual, and the old holes line
up. I only had to remove the top 3 fender bolts to
get it in correctly.
Now can you tell me how to get the last fender bolt
in? (the one that is at the top of the wheel arch,
behind the gutter. ;)
Regards,
Jim Wood
--- HLYDOC@aol.com wrote:
> The rear shroud gutter fits under the lip of the
> rear shroud and is riveted
> to the shroud. It must be intalled to the rear
> shroud before it is installed
> onto the car.
>
__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
HotJobs - Search new jobs daily now
http://hotjobs.yahoo.com/
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From "Haber, David J." <David.Haber at vtmednet.org>
From: "Jerry Costanzo" <grumpyingb@surewest.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 10:23:35 -0500
Subject: New starter
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From <alan at andysnet.net>
From: "Jerry Costanzo" <grumpyingb@surewest.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 09:27:48 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Bumpers for a BJ8
TIA
Alan HBJ8L/34297 (Aint-it-fun)
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From <alan at andysnet.net>
From: "Jerry Costanzo" <grumpyingb@surewest.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 09:31:06 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: Drainage channel (gutter) attachment
Alan HBJ8L/34297 (Aint-it-fun)
> David,
>
> Thanks, you are right as usual, and the old holes line
> up. I only had to remove the top 3 fender bolts to
> get it in correctly.
>
> Now can you tell me how to get the last fender bolt
> in? (the one that is at the top of the wheel arch,
> behind the gutter. ;)
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From <alan at andysnet.net>
From: "Jerry Costanzo" <grumpyingb@surewest.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 09:35:57 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: New starter
Alan HBJ8L/34297 (Aint-it-fun)
> I need to replace the starter on my 1960 BT7. Any suggestions on a
> reputable place to buy one?
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From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "Jerry Costanzo" <grumpyingb@surewest.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 07:52:09 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: springs for the head
Dean (BN7)
--- Jerry Costanzo <grumpyingb@surewest.net> wrote:
> I have a head that is being rebuilt. How many of
> you replace the springs
> when doing a rebuild?
__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
HotJobs - Search new jobs daily now
http://hotjobs.yahoo.com/
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From skip <tfsbj7 at mindspring.com>
From: "Jerry Costanzo" <grumpyingb@surewest.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 06 Nov 2002 11:02:17 -0500
Subject: Re: springs for the head
Does anyone know how to measure a springs "springyness"? and
what are the measurements of the standard springs vs
upgraded/heavy duty springs?
Thanks
-skip-
frogeye wrote:
>
> Jerry,
> Whether you reuse the old or replace them..have the machine shop measure
> them for correct tension....
>
> > I have a head that is being rebuilt. How many of you replace the springs
> > when doing a rebuild? By the way, the old springs are a bit rusty.
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Jerry Costanzo" <grumpyingb@surewest.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 11:12:51 EST
Subject: Re: New starter
First we have the original style rebuilt with re wound armatures and new
field windings, brushs, bearings and bushs.
The other style that we have is a High torque gear reduction style starter
that uses much less eneergy to crank the engine and turns the engine much
faster but will not look original.
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "Jerry Costanzo" <grumpyingb@surewest.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 08:48:46 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: New starter
I plan on doing this with my generator as soon as I am
convinced it will start raining here in So. Cal.
I think it was around $120. My local import auto guys
had a trusted rebuilder.
Dean
--- "Haber, David J." <David.Haber@vtmednet.org>
wrote:
> I need to replace the starter on my 1960 BT7. Any
> suggestions on a reputable
> place to buy one?
>
__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
HotJobs - Search new jobs daily now
http://hotjobs.yahoo.com/
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Jerry Costanzo" <grumpyingb@surewest.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 13:51:15 EST
Subject: Re: New starter
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "simon.lachlan" <simon.lachlan at btopenworld.com>
From: "Jerry Costanzo" <grumpyingb@surewest.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 19:04:49 -0000
Subject: RE: springs for the head
Simon Lachlan
Comfort House
Bradninch
Devon EX5 4NN
UK
01392-882248
March1962 MkII
HBT7 18111 (29E/RU/H4590)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Blue One
Hundred
Sent: 06 November 2002 03:51
To: Jerry Costanzo; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: springs for the head
Jerry -
My philosophy is if you are going through all that
trouble, you should replace the springs and valves and
install valve inserts as well so you can run unleaded
gas. Good springs are key to making sure you have
good high end horsepower - when the springs are used
and they start losing force, high end horspower can
really start to drop off...
FYI - I saw a set of new valve springs on Ebay
yesterday...
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Jerry Costanzo <grumpyingb@surewest.net> wrote:
> I have a head that is being rebuilt. How many of
> you replace the springs
> when doing a rebuild? By the way, the old springs
> are a bit rusty.
>
> Jerry
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "simon.lachlan" <simon.lachlan at btopenworld.com>
From: "Jerry Costanzo" <grumpyingb@surewest.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 19:05:21 -0000
Subject: RE: springs for the head
sales@bighealey.co.uk
I've no interest in DW; I just use them when I've an engine
project.
Simon Lachlan
Comfort House
Bradninch
Devon EX5 4NN
UK
01392-882248
March1962 MkII
HBT7 18111 (29E/RU/H4590)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of skip
Sent: 06 November 2002 16:02
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: springs for the head
Does anyone have a recommended place to buy "heavy duty", or
"upgraded" valve springs?
Does anyone know how to measure a springs "springyness"? and
what are the measurements of the standard springs vs
upgraded/heavy duty springs?
Thanks
-skip-
frogeye wrote:
>
> Jerry,
> Whether you reuse the old or replace them..have the machine
shop measure
> them for correct tension....
>
> > I have a head that is being rebuilt. How many of you
replace the springs
> > when doing a rebuild? By the way, the old springs are a bit
rusty.
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "Jerry Costanzo" <grumpyingb@surewest.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 08:41:55 +1100
Subject: Re: springs for the head
I too would second Simon Lachlan's recommendation for DenisWelch Motorsport
in the UK, as the place to buy high performance Healey parts.
Even from the other side of the world. : )
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "skip" <tfsbj7@mindspring.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, November 07, 2002 3:02 AM
Subject: Re: springs for the head
> Does anyone have a recommended place to buy "heavy duty", or
> "upgraded" valve springs?
>
> Does anyone know how to measure a springs "springyness"? and
> what are the measurements of the standard springs vs
> upgraded/heavy duty springs?
>
> Thanks
> -skip-
>
> frogeye wrote:
> >
> > Jerry,
> > Whether you reuse the old or replace them..have the machine shop
measure
> > them for correct tension....
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From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: "Jerry Costanzo" <grumpyingb@surewest.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 16:55:43 EST
Subject: Alloy Valve Cover for sale
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From "Chris Masucci" <sooch at houston.rr.com>
From: "Jerry Costanzo" <grumpyingb@surewest.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 20:29:29 -0600
Subject: Vacuum advance needed
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From "Scott H." <austrheamgafun at arczip.com>
From: "Jerry Costanzo" <grumpyingb@surewest.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 06:32:10 -0500
Subject: Original Austin-Healey
For those who have the need to know, the original hardbound version of the
Original Austin-Healey Restorers Guide has been out of print, but is now
available through Classic Motorbooks (www.motorbooks.com) in a softbound
version for $24.95.
Same text, same photo's, same mistakes.
Scott Helms
P.S. No financial interest, just hobby interest.
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From "Sigi B.- Koenigs" <SigiBKoenigs at comcast.net>
From: "Jerry Costanzo" <grumpyingb@surewest.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 07 Nov 2002 08:19:53 -0500
Subject: test only -- delete -
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From Grglmn at cs.com
From: "Jerry Costanzo" <grumpyingb@surewest.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 08:48:45 EST
Subject: Original Austin Healey
For those who have the need to know, the original hardbound version of the
Original Austin-Healey Restorers Guide has been out of print, but is now
available through Classic Motorbooks (www.motorbooks.com) in a softbound
version for $24.95.
Same text, same photo's, same mistakes.
Does anybody have a list of the mistakes, or have some knowledge of the more
notorious ones, I reference the book fairly often.
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
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From "Phil Leslie" <phil at lesliecompanies.com>
From: "Jerry Costanzo" <grumpyingb@surewest.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 07 Nov 2002 09:37:02 -0600
Subject: BJ8 Brake Problem
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From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: "Jerry Costanzo" <grumpyingb@surewest.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 08:08:00 -0800
Subject: More help needed for Healey Masters victim.
As referenced below, and some of you may remember.
This Healeydude, (Nelson Tharp) was one of the victims of Healey Master's
(July-August) owner disappearance, eviction and abandonment of numerous
(20-30) in-process Healey restorations.
Nelson is once again in need of our collective wisdom with his ongoing effort
to
complete his BJ8 restoration..
Please respond to Nelson as referenced below.
Kirk Kvam
62BT7 (Tri-Carb)
59/60BN7 (Nasty Boy 302 Ford, 101mph @ Tahoe.)
----- Original Message -----
From: nltharp
To: 62BT7@prodigy.net
Sent: Wednesday, November 06, 2002 10:04 PM
Subject: Update and Another Question
Dear Kirk:
Back in August you helped me out with a posting to your members regarding my
'65 Healey which had been trashed and abandoned by Healey Masters while in the
process of restoration. I aquired some parts from one of your responding
members, and other parts from one of the other victims of Healey Masters who
decided to part out his Healey.I am continuing the process of restoration with
hopes of completion around January. Thanks for your help and the responses of
several club members.
I have a question that I hope one or more members may be able to help me with,
and again request your help. My '65 BJ8 3000 Mark III was to be equipped with
a heater/air conditioner that reportedly fit in the same space as the Smith's
heater box standard with my Healey, and would use the same heating ducts and
vents in the Healey. Randy Cook, the criminal owner of Healey Masters who is
now in hiding, had told me that this heating and air conditioning unit was an
after-market item used in Hot Rods, but that is all I know. Cook had already
built a bracket (see attached jpg picture)in front of the radiator to hold a
fan, compressor, or something related to this air conditioner, and I'd like to
continue with it if only I knew where to find this unit and whether it works
efficiently. Otherwise I will remove the bracket and replace it with the
X-strut normally in front of the radiator.
Is anyone familiar with a heater/air conditioner such as the one I've
described and know of its efficiency or where I can obtain one?
I'd be very appreciative for any advice or help with this issue.
Thanks again.
Nelson Tharp
nltharp@prodigy.net
Los Angeles Home: (323) 650-6670
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
Bracket.jpg]
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From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: "Jerry Costanzo" <grumpyingb@surewest.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 07 Nov 2002 16:25:34 +0000
Subject: Re: More help needed for Healey Masters victim.
- Chinese Proverb
> To All Listers,
>
> As referenced below, and some of you may remember.
>
> This Healeydude, (Nelson Tharp) was one of the victims of Healey Master's
> (July-August) owner disappearance, eviction and abandonment of numerous
> (20-30) in-process Healey restorations.
>
> Nelson is once again in need of our collective wisdom with his ongoing effort
> to
> complete his BJ8 restoration..
>
> Please respond to Nelson as referenced below.
>
> Kirk Kvam
> 62BT7 (Tri-Carb)
> 59/60BN7 (Nasty Boy 302 Ford, 101mph @ Tahoe.)
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: nltharp
> To: 62BT7@prodigy.net
> Sent: Wednesday, November 06, 2002 10:04 PM
> Subject: Update and Another Question
>
>
> Dear Kirk:
>
> Back in August you helped me out with a posting to your members regarding my
> '65 Healey which had been trashed and abandoned by Healey Masters while in the
> process of restoration. I aquired some parts from one of your responding
> members, and other parts from one of the other victims of Healey Masters who
> decided to part out his Healey.I am continuing the process of restoration with
> hopes of completion around January. Thanks for your help and the responses of
> several club members.
>
> I have a question that I hope one or more members may be able to help me with,
> and again request your help. My '65 BJ8 3000 Mark III was to be equipped with
> a heater/air conditioner that reportedly fit in the same space as the Smith's
> heater box standard with my Healey, and would use the same heating ducts and
> vents in the Healey. Randy Cook, the criminal owner of Healey Masters who is
> now in hiding, had told me that this heating and air conditioning unit was an
> after-market item used in Hot Rods, but that is all I know. Cook had already
> built a bracket (see attached jpg picture)in front of the radiator to hold a
> fan, compressor, or something related to this air conditioner, and I'd like to
> continue with it if only I knew where to find this unit and whether it works
> efficiently. Otherwise I will remove the bracket and replace it with the
> X-strut normally in front of the radiator.
>
> Is anyone familiar with a heater/air conditioner such as the one I've
> described and know of its efficiency or where I can obtain one?
>
> I'd be very appreciative for any advice or help with this issue.
>
> Thanks again.
>
> Nelson Tharp
>
> nltharp@prodigy.net
>
> Los Angeles Home: (323) 650-6670
>
> [demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
> Bracket.jpg]
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From DMMax at aol.com
From: "Jerry Costanzo" <grumpyingb@surewest.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 11:37:48 EST
Subject: Re: More help needed for Healey Masters victim.
<< this heating and air conditioning unit was an
after-market item used in Hot Rods >>
I believe "Vintage air" might be the supplier of some of these systems.
Cheers, David & "Mrs. BN7 Peel"
(who wants one of these systems.... she's so spoiled !)
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From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 11:19:02 -0600
Subject: A/C
Hi Nelson,
"Vintage Air" in San Antonio,Texas makes A/C kits and supplies parts for
retro,classic and hot rod installations. i have a catalog some where around
here w/address ,etc in a box from when i quit work in May and packed up all my
stuff.i think they now may have a website also. HTH, HoYo
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From <alan at andysnet.net>
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 12:28:38 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: More help needed for Healey Masters victim.
Alan HBJ8L/34297 (Aint-it-fun)
> To All Listers,
>
> As referenced below, and some of you may remember.
>
> This Healeydude, (Nelson Tharp) was one of the victims of Healey
> Master's (July-August) owner disappearance, eviction and abandonment of
> numerous (20-30) in-process Healey restorations.
>
> Nelson is once again in need of our collective wisdom with his ongoing
> effort to
> complete his BJ8 restoration..
>
> Please respond to Nelson as referenced below.
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From Ah59bn4 at aol.com
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 13:32:13 EST
Subject: Re: Original Austin Healey
Bill Percival 59 BN4 in 63th week of 12 week restoration
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From "paul Jennings" <paul at jenningsok.freeserve.co.uk>
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 20:48:10 -0000
Subject: Springs For The head
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
wrote
I too would second Simon Lachlan's recommendation for DenisWelch Motorsport
in the UK, as the place to buy high performance Healey parts.
Even from the other side of the world. : )
Chris
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From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Thu, 07 Nov 2002 15:42:29 -0600
Subject: Re: More help needed for Healey Masters victim.
Best regards,
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 16:12:52 -0600
Subject: Re: More help needed for Healey Masters victim.
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 16:15:09 -0600
Subject: Re: Original Austin Healey
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From HealeyHundred at aol.com
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 17:45:21 EST
Subject: Re: Original Austin Healey
I did get the "near miss humor" though.
Best,
Richard
Ah59bn4@aol.com writes:
<< Gary A. will email you a list of updates to problems in the text of the
book
... email him and ask for them. Of course it is a given that R. Moment will
admit to no mistakes.
Bill Percival 59 BN4 in 63th week of 12 week restoration >>
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Thu, 07 Nov 2002 18:28:29 -0500
Subject: Re: Original Austin Healey
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: <HealeyHundred@aol.com>
To: <Ah59bn4@aol.com>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, November 07, 2002 5:45 PM
Subject: Re: Original Austin Healey
> Bill, really...??? I find that Roger not only readily admits to the
mistakes
> in his and Garys book, but also to those of Clausager's book, the one in
> question here. I don't think that Gary has compiled a list of the errors,
> ommisions, and mistakes in Calusager's book, but that would be a very good
> idea.
>
> I did get the "near miss humor" though.
> Best,
> Richard
>
> Ah59bn4@aol.com writes:
> << Gary A. will email you a list of updates to problems in the text of the
> book
> ... email him and ask for them. Of course it is a given that R. Moment
will
> admit to no mistakes.
> Bill Percival 59 BN4 in 63th week of 12 week restoration >>
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From Ptuleysr at cs.com
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 18:56:08 EST
Subject: 60BT7 rear seatback
Price Tuley 60 BT7
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 19:03:06 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ8 Brake Problem
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Phil Leslie
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Thursday, November 07, 2002 10:37 AM
Subject: BJ8 Brake Problem
A couple of weeks ago I described a problem regarding my BJ8's ability to
collect air in the brake system without an apparent fluid leak. Someone on
the list suggested that I check the cap on the supply tank to make sure that
the air hole was clear. Question: should the hole be open all the way
through the cap i.e. should I be able to stick a pin or thin wire all the
way through? This sounds like a real newby question but I don't have the old
cap to check.
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From "matt wilson" <mwilson18 at cox.net>
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 16:15:30 -0800
Subject: Re: 60BT7 rear seatback
----- Original Message -----
From: <Ptuleysr@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, November 07, 2002 3:56 PM
Subject: 60BT7 rear seatback
> My interior was completely gutted when I began. I am buying from Heritage
the
> interior. They wanted to know whether I had a 5-1/2 inch or 6-1/2 seatback
> frame. This refers to the dimension of the seatback front to rear at the
> center of the top. Since I didn't have a seatback and am going to purchase
> one from them, they sent me both frames to find out which one fit. My
problem
> is I don't know how it is supposed to fit. I am working with the raw wood
> frame without any upholstery on it. When I put the 5-1/2 inch frame on the
> car there is about a 5/8 inch gap between the frame and the rear cockpit
> moulding. will the upholstery fill this gap? When I put on the 6-1/2 inch
> frame it touches the rear cockpit moulding and their doesn't seem the be
much
> room for upholstery. I believe their is a beading that runs around the
back.
> Is this correct? Does the finished rear seatback butt up against the rear
> cockpit moulding or lay on top of it?Thanks,
>
> Price Tuley 60 BT7
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From "John Soderling" <jsoderling at ca.astound.net>
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 16:15:18 -0800
Subject: Original Austin Healey - Mistaken
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From "Mark J. Bradakis" <mjb at autox.team.net>
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 17:21:28 -0700
Subject: Possible delays in service
Once this is done, I can get back to working on some of the minor problems
with archiving and such.
mjb.
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From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 11:33:52 +1100
Subject: Collective Smoke
Many thanks to all who responded to my request for words on the carriage of
smoke through the wiring harness. It was excatly what I was after.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
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From GSFuqua1 at aol.com
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 19:52:12 EST
Subject: Re: More help needed for Healey Masters victim.
BUT I had spoken to Randy before his disappearance about the air conditioner
and as I remember it he was getting them from a company in the Ft. Worth, TX
area. I have seen a couple of adds for them in some of my Corvette magazines
so I will do a little reading of the other responses and if no one has come
up with the answer I will look back through some of the mags and send it to
you.
On the very remote chance that someone on the Healey list knows anything
about some of the item I mentioned above I would be EXTREMELY grateful to
hear from you.
Best regards,
Gary Fuqua
Branson, Missouri
BJ8, Triumphs (6) and a Tiger
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From "Scott H." <austrheamgafun at arczip.com>
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 19:59:30 -0500
Subject: Original Austin-Healey
I'm very sorry. Old age and paint fumes has taken its toll on me. The
"Original Austin-Healey....." in paperback by Anders Ditlev Clausager is
also now available through the AHCUSA for $21 (plus shipping). A much
better deal!
Please contact Jerry Wall at JWall@Healey.org and he will load your shopping
cart!
Now back to your regularly scheduled reading......
Scott Helms
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, November 07, 2002 6:32 AM
Subject: Original Austin-Healey
> Hi all,
>
> For those who have the need to know, the original hardbound version of the
> Original Austin-Healey Restorers Guide has been out of print, but is now
> available through Classic Motorbooks (www.motorbooks.com) in a softbound
> version for $24.95.
>
> Same text, same photo's, same mistakes.
>
> Scott Helms
> P.S. No financial interest, just hobby interest.
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 17:02:16 -0800 (PST)
Subject: 100 basket case
__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
U2 on LAUNCH - Exclusive greatest hits videos
http://launch.yahoo.com/u2
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From Ah59bn4 at aol.com
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 21:10:23 EST
Subject: Re: Original Austin Healey
Bill Percival 59 BN4 in 63rd week of 12 week restoration
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 19:50:36 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: 100 basket case
It's really a matter of how you want to set up your
healey. In general for a '54 healey it should
actually be pretty low cost....
I would start with Bill Bolton in Oregon. He's a
great guy with a huge stack of used Healey parts, and
he'll sell you everything you need at a hell of alot
less than a standard healey supplier. Send him an
email at:
tricarb@aol.com
My guess is that a complete motor and tranny will set
you back somwhere between $1,000 and $4,000 depending
on how you source it and what condition it's in.
That's why you should start with Bill - he'll probably
sell you the stuff at the lower end of the spectrum.
Also - I would definitely put the old 3-speed BN1
tranny in the car - there's alot of spare ones around
and they're cheap (plus it's original). If you put in
the BN2 4 speed it'll cost you more and frankly won't
give you that much better performance (it's heavier,
bigger and first gear is non-synchro).
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- joe mulqueen <joemulqueen@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Hello,
> I've located a '54 Healey 100 basket case -
> seemingly
> complete except no engine or tranny. What is the
> "economic" feasibility of sourcing those items and
> all
> their ancilliaries? Any other options to consider
> (other than a big v8?).
> Thanks,
> Joe Mulqueen
> '60 BT7
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> U2 on LAUNCH - Exclusive greatest hits videos
> http://launch.yahoo.com/u2
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Thu, 07 Nov 2002 21:00:33 -0700
Subject: Re: 100 basket case
Bill Lawrence
joe mulqueen wrote:
> Hello,
> I've located a '54 Healey 100 basket case - seemingly
> complete except no engine or tranny. What is the
> "economic" feasibility of sourcing those items and all
> their ancilliaries? Any other options to consider
> (other than a big v8?).
> Thanks,
> Joe Mulqueen
> '60 BT7
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> U2 on LAUNCH - Exclusive greatest hits videos
> http://launch.yahoo.com/u2
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 11:06:39 -0500
Subject: Re: Original Austin Healey - Mistaken
These are most exciting when made in haste and then require an apology
'downstream'.
As someone used to say, "If you haven't made a mistake, you haven't done
anything".
R M Nixon - (I'm not sure)
CB
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 00:09:46 -0500
Subject: Fresh air duct
I was browsing Jim Werner's web site and noticed something in the picture of
his Jamaican. The fresh air duct has a very pronounced droop in it just
forward of the firewall. This same situation existed on my friend's BJ7 prior
to disassembly beginning the resto.
Is this droop abnormal? What causes it? Did some cars leave the factory that
way?
Curious as a cat
Keith Pennell
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 00:36:44 EST
Subject: Re: Fresh air duct
<< Is this droop abnormal? What causes it? Did some cars leave the factory
that
way?
Curious as a cat
Keith Pennell >>
The droop is completely normal and the way the ducts were installed
originally. Without it, you can't fit the original air ducts into the fenders.
Cheers
Gary
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Thu, 07 Nov 2002 20:57:02 -0500
Subject: Re: More help needed for Healey Masters victim.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
the answer but I thought I would share with the
> group as I too was a victim of Randy Cook and Healey Masters. He trashed
my
> Triumph TR 3B and stole thousands of dollars, parts, etc., etc. Among the
> items lost was a brand new set of 2" SU's with intake, all of my
instruments,
> an antique Nardi wooden steering wheel that was given to me by an old
friend
> off his car. Complete wiring harness custom made in England. Like I
said,
> etc., etc.
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From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 02:50:14 EST
Subject: Re: 100 Poor Running - Resolved
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From Bob Haskell <bhaskell at iquest.net>
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Fri, 08 Nov 2002 06:16:58 -0500
Subject: Re: Original Austin-Healey
Bob Haskell
1960 Austin-Healey 3000 Mk I
1964 Austin Mini Cooper RHD
1980 MGB-LE
bhaskell@iquest.net
"Scott H." wrote:
>
> Hi all (again),
>
> I'm very sorry. Old age and paint fumes has taken its toll on me. The
> "Original Austin-Healey....." in paperback by Anders Ditlev Clausager is
> also now available through the AHCUSA for $21 (plus shipping). A much
> better deal!
>
> Please contact Jerry Wall at JWall@Healey.org and he will load your shopping
> cart!
>
> Now back to your regularly scheduled reading......
>
> Scott Helms
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, November 07, 2002 6:32 AM
> Subject: Original Austin-Healey
>
> > Hi all,
> >
> > For those who have the need to know, the original hardbound version of the
> > Original Austin-Healey Restorers Guide has been out of print, but is now
> > available through Classic Motorbooks (www.motorbooks.com) in a softbound
> > version for $24.95.
> >
> > Same text, same photo's, same mistakes.
> >
> > Scott Helms
> > P.S. No financial interest, just hobby interest.
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From Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Fri, 08 Nov 2002 10:09:15 -0500
Subject: siide curtains
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From "Kirk Kvam" <klkvam at prodigy.net>
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 07:15:52 -0800
Subject: Thanks from Nelson Tharp Re: Healey Masters Victim
Just thought you'd like to know.
You guys made Nelson a Happy Camper.
Thanks for responding (as usual) to him, in his time of need.
Fwd: His letter below.
YES !! "WE ARE A GREAT BAND OF BROTHERS (sisters)
WHO SHARE A LOVE ...."
Healey's (and nasty boy's) Live
Kirk
----- Original Message -----
From: "Nelson Tharp" <nltharp@prodigy.net>
To: "'Kirk Kvam'" <klkvam@prodigy.net>
Sent: Thursday, November 07, 2002 9:40 PM
Subject: RE: Healey List subscribe
> Dear Kirk....
>
> I just wanted to thank you again for your help with my Healey
> restoration problems. You and your members have been amazing. I
> received many responses within a day of my request to you, and their
> info was extremely helpful... down to the name and city of the
> manufacturer of the air conditioning/heating unit. You guys are a great
> band of brothers who share a love of one of the great British sports
> cars, and I appreciate the time you and your buddies have given me in my
> quest to restore this 1965 Healey, my first car, which I aquired in
> 1972.
>
> Thanks again.
>
> Sincerely,
>
> Nelson Tharp
> nltharp@prodigy.net
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Kirk Kvam [mailto:klkvam@prodigy.net]
> Sent: Thursday, November 07, 2002 8:33 AM
> To: nltharp@prodigy.net
> Subject: Healey List subscribe
>
>
> Hi Nelson,
>
> Good to hear you didn't loose interest and are still
> in process of restoring your Healey.
>
> I forwarded your request for help to the Healey List
> with cc to you.
>
> If you desire, you can subscribe to the list and have
> one on one communication with any list member.
>
> Here's how to subscribe
>
> Send a e-mail message to
>
> majordomo@autox.team.net
>
> Leave the subject blank
>
> In the text, type only,
>
> subscribe healeys
>
> "note, lower case and healeys is plural"
>
> You'll receive a return message asking you to send another message to
> them with a code they provide.
>
> Good Luck with your resto,
>
> Kirk
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From "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Fri, 08 Nov 2002 10:37:24 -0600
Subject: Re: siide curtains
This is all part and parcel of the parts suppliers creedo, "sell 'em anything.
If they need it, they'll buy it. Doesn't matter if it's right or wrong." and
that goes all of them. Big places, small places, etc.
Steven Tjepkema wrote:
> Hi everybody I just recieved my new side curtains from moss they look great
>but they don`t line up right with my hard top. Am I missing something, do I
>trim the side curtains or or the hard top trim.I need to open the the door to
>get in and out with out a hassel Yes I need help. Thanks Steve 58 bn4
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From Rmoment at aol.com
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 10:48:30 EST
Subject: Re: Fresh air duct
> I was browsing Jim Werner's web site and noticed something in the picture of
> his Jamaican. The fresh air duct has a very pronounced droop in it just
> forward of the firewall. This same situation existed on my friend's BJ7
> prior
> to disassembly beginning the resto.
>
> Is this droop abnormal? What causes it? Did some cars leave the factory
> that
> way?
>
>
Yes, there is a large "droop" to the fresh air ducting on the left side.
Part of the reason, I believe, is to aid in routing the tubing so that it
doesn't interfere with the carb air cleaners. Also, installing this ducting
into a completed and painted body is no trivial matter. However, if you have
an empty engine bay, and the car is up on saw horses (to put it about 2 1/2 -
3 ft off the ground) you can stand in the engine bay and much more easily
reach around to where the wire clamp holds the tubing onto the short fitting
that is screwed to the firewall (and which, by the way, was attached BEFORE
the body was finally assembled and painted because it would be very difficult
(read almost impossible) to insert the three screws that hold the fitting to
the firewall with the left wing in place as you'd be working "blind").
There is a reason for putting the duct in after affixing the wing, though.
Getting to the middle top screws that hold the wing joint to the shroud is
very hard witht eh ducting in place, as it hides access to them.
Just some thoughts.
Roger
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From WhoCares56 at aol.com
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 10:48:44 EST
Subject: BN1 brakes
I have a 53 BN1 and I'm trying to sort out the brakes. According to the Moss
catalog there are different part numbers for the front and rear brake drums.
Also the brake shoes are different part numbers for the front and rear. Can
anyone tell me how to distinguish fonts from rears? (no jokes) I have a pile
of drums and shoes and they are not all the same but I don't know which are
which.
Also do the front shoe return springs go from shoe to shoe or shoe to backing
plate?
Thanks for your help
Carroll
53 BN1 # 484
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From Rmoment at aol.com
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 11:04:14 EST
Subject: Re: siide curtains
> Welcome to Mossworld. These are basic sliding windows. They need to be
> "fitted". You could have gotten the exact same thing for 60% less at your
> local acylic shop. Sort of like what Moss does.
>
Before you come down on Moss, remember:
1) all such parts were custom fitted at the factory when the cars were new
2) with cars that have been around for some 40 years, and no telling what
all has been done to them (remember the fellow recently who had a windshield
mounting problem?), a certain amount of fitting will be required.
3) even with my original side curtains on my 3000 BT7 (original Healey --
not to my car, however) , I had to do a little filing and careful adjusting
of the mounting hardware, as well as trimming of the front edge rubber seal
to the windshield frame. Ended up with 0.020" (or so!!) clearance to the
hardtop aluminum window opening and a perfect fit to the windshield. The
hardtop was not originally fitted to my car either.
So patience is certainly in order. This is not to say Moss, or any other
supplier for that matter, can't have products that vary enough from the
original dimensions as to be difficult to use. Just let's not jump too
quickly on the wagon to be harshly critical.
Roger
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From "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Fri, 08 Nov 2002 11:14:39 -0600
Subject: Re: slide curtains
In your point 3) you clarified if for us. YOU didn't use Moss Parts. You
wouldn't use Moss parts would you? You are the severst critic of
aftermarket replacement parts so why suddenly "don't come down on Moss?"
Bob Denton
In a message dated 11/08/2002 8:38:41 AM Mountain Standard Time,
foxriverkid@earthlink.net writes:
Welcome to Mossworld. These are basic sliding windows. They need to
be "fitted". You could have gotten the exact same thing for 60% less at
your
local acylic shop. Sort of like what Moss does.
Before you come down on Moss, remember:
1) all such parts were custom fitted at the factory when the cars were
new
2) with cars that have been around for some 40 years, and no telling
what all has been done to them (remember the fellow recently
who had a windshield mounting problem?), a certain amount of fitting
will be required.
3) even with my original side curtains on my 3000 BT7 (original Healey
-- not to my car, however) , I had to do a little filing and
careful adjusting of the mounting hardware, as well as trimming of the
front edge rubber seal to the windshield frame. Ended up
with 0.020" (or so!!) clearance to the hardtop aluminum window opening
and a perfect fit to the windshield. The hardtop was not
originally fitted to my car either.
So patience is certainly in order. This is not to say Moss, or any
other supplier for that matter, can't have products that vary enough
from the original dimensions as to be difficult to use. Just let's not
jump too quickly on the wagon to be harshly critical.
Roger
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From "Bob Yule" <autofarm at gate-way.net>
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 11:14:39 -0500
Subject: Re: siide curtains
----- Original Message -----
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Steven Tjepkema" <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, November 08, 2002 11:37 AM
Subject: Re: siide curtains
> Welcome to Mossworld. These are basic sliding windows. They need to be
"fitted". You could have gotten the exact same thing for 60% less at your
local acylic shop. Sort of like what Moss does.
>
> This is all part and parcel of the parts suppliers creedo, "sell 'em
anything. If they need it, they'll buy it. Doesn't matter if it's right or
wrong." and that goes all of them. Big places, small places, etc.
>
>
>
>
> ///
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From "rdavies" <rdavies at cox.net>
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 08:13:45 -0800
Subject: BJ8 tuning gear
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From Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Fri, 08 Nov 2002 11:42:26 -0500
Subject: side curtains
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From "Udo Putzke" <putzke_u at bilstein.com>
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 08:42:28 -0800
Subject: RE: siide curtains
Udo Putzke
Bilstein leading the race
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On
Behalf Of Rmoment@aol.com
Sent: Friday, November 08, 2002 8:04 AM
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net; stjepkem@optonline.net
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: siide curtains
In a message dated 11/08/2002 8:38:41 AM Mountain Standard Time,
foxriverkid@earthlink.net writes:
> Welcome to Mossworld. These are basic sliding windows. They need to be
> "fitted". You could have gotten the exact same thing for 60% less at your
> local acylic shop. Sort of like what Moss does.
>
Before you come down on Moss, remember:
1) all such parts were custom fitted at the factory when the cars were new
2) with cars that have been around for some 40 years, and no telling what
all has been done to them (remember the fellow recently who had a windshield
mounting problem?), a certain amount of fitting will be required.
3) even with my original side curtains on my 3000 BT7 (original Healey --
not to my car, however) , I had to do a little filing and careful adjusting
of the mounting hardware, as well as trimming of the front edge rubber seal
to the windshield frame. Ended up with 0.020" (or so!!) clearance to the
hardtop aluminum window opening and a perfect fit to the windshield. The
hardtop was not originally fitted to my car either.
So patience is certainly in order. This is not to say Moss, or any other
supplier for that matter, can't have products that vary enough from the
original dimensions as to be difficult to use. Just let's not jump too
quickly on the wagon to be harshly critical.
Roger
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 12:32:41 EST
Subject: BN7 Body Plate Numbers
Best--Michael Oritt
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From "Roberta and Bob Johnson" <bandrj at earthlink.net>
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 12:46:20 -0500
Subject: Re: Fixing Shock Absorbers
So what is the right kind of oil. Hydraulic because it has an anti-foam
agent. What else?
Bob Johnson
BJ8
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 13:27:33 EST
Subject: Re: 100 basket case
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
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From "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Fri, 08 Nov 2002 14:26:50 -0600
Subject: Re: siide curtains
> Don't tar everyone with the same brush!!
> Bob @ Autofarm
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
> To: "Steven Tjepkema" <stjepkem@optonline.net>
> Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, November 08, 2002 11:37 AM
> Subject: Re: siide curtains
>
> > Welcome to Mossworld. These are basic sliding windows. They need to be
> "fitted". You could have gotten the exact same thing for 60% less at your
> local acylic shop. Sort of like what Moss does.
> >
> > This is all part and parcel of the parts suppliers creedo, "sell 'em
> anything. If they need it, they'll buy it. Doesn't matter if it's right or
> wrong." and that goes all of them. Big places, small places, etc.
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From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 14:34:43 EST
Subject: Re: BN1 brakes
As best I can tell from my car, parts book and service manual:
Drums are all from the same casting (1B4276/83) but rear drums may be machine
faced outside center for the bolt-on rear hubs.
Three of my drums are original. They are all stamped 1L538 on the outside
face. Two are marked 17F4 (with the 7 being hand stamped over the cast
1_F4). One is marked 19F4 (with the 9 being hand stamped over the cast
1_F4). Mine could be mixed up, but if yours are original, I would expect
that you had two marked "17F4" and two marked "19F4" and, hopefully, two of
them are machined for the rear bolt-on hubs.
Front shoes have two holes and a slot in the web. Rear shoes have tree holes
through the web.
Front springs go from shoe to backing plate.
I have a couple of photos of the shoe arrangements. Let me know if you
need/want them.
Steve Mickelson
BN1L156610 "Brutus" with the spiral bevel rear axle.
In a message dated 11/8/02 9:12:09 AM Pacific Standard Time,
WhoCares56@aol.com writes:
<< Good morning Listers,
I have a 53 BN1 and I'm trying to sort out the brakes. According to the
Moss
catalog there are different part numbers for the front and rear brake drums.
Also the brake shoes are different part numbers for the front and rear. Can
anyone tell me how to distinguish fonts from rears? (no jokes) I have a
pile
of drums and shoes and they are not all the same but I don't know which are
which.
Also do the front shoe return springs go from shoe to shoe or shoe to
backing
plate?
Thanks for your help
Carroll
53 BN1 # 484 >>
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From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 12:09:15 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: BJ8 tuning gear
Colortune:
A friend gave me a colortune kit that he intended to
use on his MG but never did. We recently tried it on
the Healey. Yellow flame, orange flame, blue flame,
lighter blue flame - OK. It is neat and fun to see the
spark/ingition process really happening, but my
experence is you have to radically adjust the mixture
screws before you notice a change in flame color.
Tuning your car my flame color must a real art. We
tried for hours and just could not see the differences
in the varoius shades of blue to have any confidence
that we were close. In the end we followed the tried
and true method of lifting the dashpot and noting the
RPM change.
You are welcome to borrow the kit or I can send you a
copy of the instructions. My five year old thought it
was cool...
Timing light:
> 5. where to get a pos ground timing light.
Funny - a few years back I had the same thought.
Using my Sears light (6yrs old) all I needed to do was
attach the neg side to the fuse block and pos to the
chassis and that was it. The induction picked up fine
and all the smoke stayed in the wires.
I have a NOS Lucas BJ8 point/condensor if you want it
(free). Moss part number 153900 and 154000. Let me
know.
Dean BN7
Thousand Oaks
__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
U2 on LAUNCH - Exclusive greatest hits videos
http://launch.yahoo.com/u2
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From HealeyHundred at aol.com
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 15:19:26 EST
Subject: Re: siide curtains
That's why not...:))) You might be the recipient. I would like to keep the
name calling off the list and get the facts regarding a specific part from a
specific supplier. In this case, the side curtains provider by Moss really
aren't to bad. They do not have the original markings and the mounting
hardware isn't as original But you can use the original hardware and just
move it to the new frames. They will have to be carefully fit just like the
originals. Yes, it would be nice if the manufacturers would make the
mounting hardware identicle to the originals, so, lets ask moss to ask the
manufacturers. Some of Moss' parts are excellent. some are fair, some are
poor. They have at least been receptive to complaints. And the more
complaints they get, the sooner parts will be made better. But don't just
complain...let them know exactly what is wrong and let them know that you are
willing to pay a little more for correct items.
Just my 2 cents worth.
Richard
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 16:02:49 -0500
Subject: Re: Original Austin Healey - Mistaken
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Charley Braum
To: John Soderling
Cc: Healey-List
Sent: Thursday, November 07, 2002 11:06 AM
Subject: Re: Original Austin Healey - Mistaken
I ,for one, enjoy incorrect information and (especially) derogatory
remarks.
These are most exciting when made in haste and then require an apology
'downstream'.
As someone used to say, "If you haven't made a mistake, you haven't
done
anything".
R M Nixon - (I'm not sure)
CB
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Fri, 08 Nov 2002 16:20:41 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ8 tuning gear
2. I have a color tune and have never been able to use it according to the
directions. the shading gradients are just to fine for my old eyes even when
I try it in a darkened garage.
3. These things are rather expensive and, since I am exempt from smog
checks, don't use one.
4. Carb synchs are rather easy to use but the ear works also.
5. As far as a positive ground timing lite is concerned, I found one at J C
Whitney. there are others but Whitney is cheapest -- most of the ones on the
other sites are around $225.00. Whitneys is $80. Sears no longer sells them
and when I went to Pep Boys locally they just gave me a blank stare - "duh,
what's a timing light" Also the case should/must be plastic rather than
metal in order to avoid the risk of a shock.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "rdavies" <rdavies@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, November 08, 2002 11:13 AM
Subject: BJ8 tuning gear
> Back in 65-70 I did my own basic engine work on my BJ8; plugs, condensor,
> points, timing, valves, etc. That was a long time ago. On this rainy
morning
> in California my BJ8 just cries out for a tuneup.
> I'd appreciate some feedback, pros and cons, on the merits of purchasing
the
> following from the Moss catalog:
> 1. clikadjust (valves)
> 2. gunson's colortune (glass topped spark plug)
> 3. exhaust gas analyzer
> 4. carb synchronizer (airflow between multiple carbs)
> 5. where to get a pos ground timing light.
> Also, any suggestions on other tools, books, manuals or videos for tune
ups
> would be very helpful.
> Thanks again :-)
> Ronald O. Davies
> 67 BJ8
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From Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Fri, 08 Nov 2002 16:48:55 -0500
Subject: side curtains again
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From Rmoment at aol.com
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 16:40:52 EST
Subject: Re: slide curtains
>
> In your point 3) you clarified if for us. YOU didn't use Moss Parts. You
> wouldn't use Moss parts would you? You are the severst critic of
> aftermarket replacement parts so why suddenly "don't come down on Moss?"
>
I DO use Moss parts. Some they have had made up on their own that are
perfectly fine. Others I have worked with them to improve -- getting the
correct 9" original wiper refills, better king pins, for example), and still
others they have gone after the improvement themselves -- the rear springs
for example.
We all benefit from having Moss, as well as other suppliers, out there making
parts. There is an excellent note by Graham Robson in the Dec 2002-Jan 2003
issue of British Car Magazine (which also has a nice write-up on Tahoe as
well as many other excellent articles) in which he notes, on page 23, how
companies like Moss have been such a boon to us. Just because an item isn't
totally indistinguishable from original doesn't mean it isn't worth putting
on your car. Many of the Moss items I have chosen not to use I have been
able to do without because I have the ability to remanufacture them mlyself
to orignal specs. Most people don't know how to do this (and keep it
affordable).
And sometimes other parts sources in England have far worse products than
Moss, so you really lhave to consider the situation anew with every purchase
and not just make blanket judgements.
Roger
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From Rmoment at aol.com
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 16:52:00 EST
Subject: Re: BN1 brakes
> I have a 53 BN1 and I'm trying to sort out the brakes. According to the
> Moss
> catalog there are different part numbers for the front and rear brake
> drums.
> Also the brake shoes are different part numbers for the front and rear.
> Can
> anyone tell me how to distinguish fonts from rears? (no jokes) I have a
> pile
> of drums and shoes and they are not all the same but I don't know which are
>
> which.
>
> Also do the front shoe return springs go from shoe to shoe or shoe to
> backing
> plate?
>
> Thanks for your help
> Carroll
> 53 BN1 # 484
>
Carroll,
I believe the part numbers are cast into the brake drums. For the BN1s (all
of them) the parts book lists 1B 4276. I believe these shoes are 1 3/4" in
width. If you look at paages M/4 and M/5 of the 100 shop manual you will see
what the front and rear shoes ought to look like. THe rear ones have arcs on
their ends, while the front ones have tongues at one end.
The springs on the front shoes go from the shoe to the backing plate -- on
the rear shoes from shoe to shoe.
Also Figure 5 on page M/4 shows the LF brake. The RF one is a mirror image
-- that is, the forward wheel cylinder has the piston facing down, and the
rear one facing up.
Hope this helps,
Roger
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From "John Peak" <johnepeak at hotmail.com>
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Fri, 08 Nov 2002 13:51:55 -0800
Subject: Re: BJ8 tuning gear
Forgive my ignorance, but what is a positive ground timing light? I just
used the same old timing light that I have been using on all my cars for the
last 25-30 years with no (apparent) problems. It is a Sears with plastic
case. Am I missing something here?
John
From WhoCares56 at aol.com
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 19:59:00 EST
Subject: Re: BN1 brakes - Thanks
Thanks again. I believe my questions have been throughly answered.
Carroll
53 BN1 # 484
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 21:37:03 -0600
Subject: Product Quality
Thanks, Mark
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 21:44:33 -0600
Subject: Re: side curtains again
Good Luck, Mark
> The curtains I recieved with the car were not to bad of shape they were
never mounted right.They have a rubber flare all around, original I don`t
know.the curtains I recieved from moss are real nice but don`t fit.I would
have to take off from the top front nothing to the curve in rear 3/4 inch
and I would still have to do the brackets over to pull the frame closer to
the door.The brackets that came with the curtains should be a blank I would
have made my own holes.And I did losen the windshield and the hard top.I`m
tired so i`m stoping for now 5hr`s I need a break Thank again. am I
sorry I got this car know way it took only 25 years to get it. Its my for
life Steven 58bn4
From "Ryan at Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 22:43:10 -0500
Subject: how to install fan
I'm putting my fan on my car (BJ7) and the way the bolts line up, the blades
are not at 90% from one another. Rather, it is more like 60% 120% 60% and
120% (the two pieces fit so that each of the 4 blades are at (on a clock): 8 &
10 and 2 & 4 oclock.)
I have the blades facing the right way, so they all should be scooping air
into the car as the fan spins clockwise. Why aren't they evenly spaced from
one another
Is this right? Am I missing something? Even the simple things are hard?
Ryan
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 18:26:46 -0500
Subject: Sprite rad for sale
Not sure this went through the other day so am reposting.
Have a friend and rad shop owner who has a Sprite rad for sale. Do not know
for which year. I saw it a couple years ago and as I seem to remember it
looked OK.
He wants $50 as is or will recore it for $200. He will guarantee it to pass
pressure check either way.
Contact me and I will put you in touch.
Keith Pennell
From "Ryan at Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 00:59:31 -0500
Subject: steering idler - what does it do?
Is it supposed to be easy to turn? If not, is there a way to adjust it?
Ryan
BJ7
From AHCUSA at go.com
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Fri, 08 Nov 2002 22:08:12 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: "Original Austin-Healey" by Anders Ditlev Clausager
A tiny correction... Jerry's actual email address is:
jerryw@healey.org
E-Mail now, operators are standing by! ;-)
Reid Trummel
http://www.healeyhighlights.com
From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 20:34:55 EST
Subject: Re: slide curtains x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
<< In your point 3) you clarified if for us. YOU didn't use Moss Parts. You
wouldn't use Moss parts would you? You are the severst critic of aftermarket
replacement parts so why suddenly "don't come down on Moss?" >>
Gee Bob, where do I start?
First of all I probably know Rogers car better than anyone else on this list,
other than Roger himself, and though his is one of the most meticulously
restored 100s in the world, I know of a number of Moss parts on his car.
Roger and I recently purchased a set of rear springs from Moss which were
very original and even though we both went a bit further to modify them to
make them just a bit more original looking, what they sell are excellent as
is.
Roger worked with Moss to get them to improve the quality of their king pin
sets and he and I installed one of the knew sets on my car. They are of
first rate quality and as good as some of the older Quinton Hazel sets that
are still around. He at least takes the time to help to improve the quality
of some of the parts, many of which are essential to keeping ours cars
running safely, and to Moss's credit, they are willing to listen and do
something about it.
I have been getting parts for my very original Bugeye from them for a few
years now and have been impressed overall with the quality of their parts
even though a few still need a bit of tweaking to make them work and others I
have just returned. This is definitely better than the parts situation of
years past where either the parts were not available at all or what was sold
wasn't worth the effort to install.
I was even told some years ago by a vendor that of course they knew that a
certain part was wrong but if the sell 100 a month and only 80 get returned
that was 20 sold of a part that they couldn't give away other wise!
Bottom line is that too many people expect NOS quality in replacement parts
but then complain about the cost and shop elsewhere. You get what you pay
for and if your overriding decision is based on price alone the quality will
suffer.
Curt Arndt
'55 BN1, '60 AN5 :{)
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From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 03:18:15 EST
Subject: Re: how to install fan
What you have described IS correct. I do not know why they are not equally
spaced, but the following could be the answer. Some cars were fitted with
six-blade fans, so there MAY be another blade section, not meant for your
car, which would align in such a manner as to fill the missing gaps.
Or, the six blade fan may be an entirely different animal - have never seen
one.
Dick Hosmer
BT7L18556
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From Grglmn at cs.com
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 17:59:53 EST
Subject: side curtains
I need to open the door to get in and out without a hassle too!!
(sorry couldn't resist, and needed to add some levity to a topic which has
gotten way too serious.)
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
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From Rmoment at aol.com
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 22:07:55 EST
Subject: Re: Fresh air duct
> BTW Can the ducting which is now supplied be worked into that orig shape?
> I have used several pieces of it and there is no way it can be bent to that
> shape unless it is soaked, heated or something!
>
Working with the ducting is difficult, but it is the same stuff as when new.
FIRST you have to stretch it out to its full length. This "softens" it up
a bit. Then you'll have to fold the big bend into it, allowing enough to
stretch rearwards towards the firewall fitting. Even original ducts are
partially collapsed at the sharpest curvature of the bend. Then you'll have
to recompress the front part a ways so that you can tread it forward from
behind the left wheel arch riser. Then you stuff the bend down into the
pocket behind the LF wing. Then stretch the rear back to mate with the
fitting, first slipping the wire clamp over it and also making sure the open
end is not partially bent out of shape or folded inwards. It is a close fit
to the round metal fitting, even though the edge of this fitting is rounded
inwards slightly. Finally you re-stretch the front of the ducting forward to
its attaching fitting on the LF cross brace (remember to slip the wire clamp
over it just when you're ready to slide it over the forward fitting).
The carbs ought to be off the engine (that is, if the engine is in the car --
I would strongly suggest you put the engine in AFTER you fit the ducting if
possible). Still you will find you have little surface area to grab to pull
the accordian folds out when stretching the duct.
DO NOT soak it in water. It is the aluminum inner layer that is giving the
body and stiffness. You'll only end up with a ruined duct where the paper
has disintegrated off the exterior.
Roger
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From Rmoment at aol.com
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 21:55:57 EST
Subject: Re: slide curtains
> I have seen their rubber parts dry-rot and fall
> off of my cars in less than 6-months. After 1 year, the 40 year old rubber
> I took off the car looks better. What's up with that?
>
I'm curious about this comment. I've had the Moss reflector pod rubber
gaskets on lmy car for over 10 years. It is holding up just fine.
The rear bumper bracket "grommets" tend to crack after a few years,
especially around the hole the bracket bars pass through. This deterioration
can be accelerated by the bars not being totally flat against each other as
they pass through the grommet (they should only start to spread after they
are an inch or so from the car body).
But these bumper grommets I have bought out of England are equally short
lived. I found that if you trim lthe hole a bit larger to reduce the
internal stress, thely hold up much better.
THe anti-roll bar rubber bushings are another item that don't hold up. Thely
are under compression when installed and cracks develop at the bulging outer
surface. Moss' bushings are no worse than those from lanly other source.
EXCEPT S-C in England has been offering urethane bushings for a few years and
these do hold up better.
But along this line, I was also told by David Jeffereys, previous and
long-time owner of S-C (and a man of genuine negineering iinterest int eh
quality of products he's had made and sold), that there is an unsuspected
potential problem from using urethane bushings at the inner A-arm positions.
He said the Urethane is stiffer and as the A-arms flex more torsional
stress is translated through the bushings and into the welded mounting
pockets on the frame ( a known area for cracks to develop). That is why the
only urethane bushings I will use are the anti-roll bar/ gearbox "drag-link"
ones.
So you can see a bit of the varied picture regarding parts and maybe come to
realize that keeping a collector car running, or restoring it to pristine
condition, will definitely require 1) patience, 2) understanding of the
economics and pressures in the parts manufacturing and retailing business,
and 3) a lot of hard individual foot work to ferret out wht's good and what's
not (and hope that the information you come up with wil still be good a year
or two downt he road).
Roger
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From Slvrbulit2 at aol.com
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 19:25:49 EST
Subject: gas tank
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From Slvrbulit2 at aol.com
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 07:19:20 EST
Subject: gas tank
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From "R.Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Sat, 09 Nov 2002 07:26:37 -0800
Subject: Re: gas tank
Slvrbulit2@aol.com wrote:
> Can anyone tell me a good place to get a gas tank for a '60 BT7? I ordered
> one from one catalog and it was dented and the paint had runs all over it. I
> sent that one back. Then I ordered one from a different catalog and they
> sent me one with the same part number from the first catalog, plus their own
> part number. This tank was also dented and the paint had runs all over it
> too. Am I expecting too much for the money I am spending, or are all the
> tanks like this?
> Seth
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From bn1 at pacbell.net
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Sat, 09 Nov 2002 04:44:34 -0800
Subject: Re: Non-Healey was: Original Austin Healey - Mistaken
> Or, as Mark Twain once said (and as I used to use as my signature line): "It
> is better to remain silent and be thought a fool....than to speak, and remove
> all doubt."
A long time ago when I first saw this in your sig line, I researched and found
it
to be attributed to Abe Lincoln, Mark Twain, Ben Franklin, Samuel Johnson
and even Confucius!
I love it and it has prompted me to keep my mouth shut more than once :-)
Does anybody really know who said it?
Bill Barnett
'53 BN1 #663
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 07:47:32 EST
Subject: Re: gas tank
> On each
> end is a lead "helmet" that says Lucas on it. The mold was made from an old
> beat
> up original and one can barely read the Lucas on it, but theoretically, I
> guess,
> they are made to like worn, old original pieces. This is all that is
> available.
> There is no proper piece that looks like new, freshly made Lucas pieces
Bob--
You could have gotten one from Roger!
Best--Michael
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Fri, 08 Nov 2002 21:05:47 -0700
Subject: Re: BN1 brakes
The front brakes are a double leading edge design actuated by a separate single
acting cylinder for each shoe. The shoes will have a long tang on one end that
is the actuation point from the piston and a smoother rounded end which bears
against the rear side of the opposite cylinder. There will be a steel pin
perpendicular to the shoe near the actuated end which engages the adjuster. The
location of the pin determines the hand of the shoe. The pin must be facing
toward the backing plate so there is a distinct left and right.
The front shoe return springs attach to the backing plates by hooks formed on
their ends which fit through holes in the shoe and backing plate.
The rear shoes are of the single leading edge type actuated by a single double
acting cylinder. The shoes have less prominent ends than the front shoes and
there is a rectangular hole near one end which, when assembled, engages the
lever for the emergency brake. the opposing end of both shoes is butted against
a wedge type adjuster.
Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554
WhoCares56@aol.com wrote:
> Good morning Listers,
>
> I have a 53 BN1 and I'm trying to sort out the brakes. According to the Moss
> catalog there are different part numbers for the front and rear brake drums.
> Also the brake shoes are different part numbers for the front and rear. Can
> anyone tell me how to distinguish fonts from rears? (no jokes) I have a pile
> of drums and shoes and they are not all the same but I don't know which are
> which.
>
> Also do the front shoe return springs go from shoe to shoe or shoe to backing
> plate?
>
> Thanks for your help
> Carroll
> 53 BN1 # 484
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 08:29:47 -0500
Subject: Re: how to install fan
It's correct that the fan blades are not at 90 degrees to each other. Why
was it done this way? I don't know, but even the 6 blades on the "Texas
Kooler" are not symmetrical. I have been told that the fan runs quieter with
unevenly-spaced blades.
Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Ryan@Ledwith
To: Healey List
Sent: Friday, November 08, 2002 10:43 PM
Subject: how to install fan
Folks:
I'm putting my fan on my car (BJ7) and the way the bolts line up, the
blades
are not at 90% from one another. Rather, it is more like 60% 120% 60% and
120% (the two pieces fit so that each of the 4 blades are at (on a clock): 8
&
10 and 2 & 4 oclock.)
I have the blades facing the right way, so they all should be scooping air
into the car as the fan spins clockwise. Why aren't they evenly spaced
from
one another
Is this right? Am I missing something? Even the simple things are hard?
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From MOWOGMAN at aol.com
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 08:56:17 EST
Subject: Re: BJ8 tuning gear
> Forgive my ignorance, but what is a positive ground timing light? I just
> used the same old timing light that I have been using on all my cars for
> the
> last 25-30 years with no (apparent) problems. It is a Sears with plastic
> case. Am I missing something here?
>
I'll second this, I still have the chromed metal case timing light I bought
22 years ago from Sears, I have used it on Healeys, Minis, Sprites, Triumphs,
Dodges, etc, etc with every kind of ground there is (except French ground!)
and I've never had a problem. I just hook up the leads right and off you
go!
John, Oostburg, WI
Home of:
'60 AH 3000
'60 Austin Mini
'69 Austin America
'80 Triumph TR8 Coupe
'80 Triumph TR7 DHC
'57 BMW Isetta
'39 Dodge Coupe
'86 Jaguar XJ6
(more always welcome!)
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 08:56:57 -0500
Subject: Re: Non-Healey was: Original Austin Healey - Mistaken
I don't know now where I got the attribution to Mark Twain, but I have had
that idea for a long, long time. In any event, from what I have read about
Mark, it sounds like something he would have said. Until better proof comes
along, I'll continue to give him the credit.
Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
----- Original Message -----
From: bn1@pacbell.net
To: Steve Byers ; healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Saturday, November 09, 2002 7:44 AM
Subject: Re: Non-Healey was: Original Austin Healey - Mistaken
Steve Byers wrote:
> Or, as Mark Twain once said (and as I used to use as my signature line):
"It
> is better to remain silent and be thought a fool....than to speak, and
remove
> all doubt."
A long time ago when I first saw this in your sig line, I researched and
found it
to be attributed to Abe Lincoln, Mark Twain, Ben Franklin, Samuel Johnson
and even Confucius!
I love it and it has prompted me to keep my mouth shut more than once :-)
Does anybody really know who said it?
Bill Barnett
'53 BN1 #663
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 20:53:49 -0500
Subject: Re: Non-Healey was: Original Austin Healey - Mistaken
CB???
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 21:10:12 -0500
Subject: Re: side curtains
Humor is limited to one day a week and that day is determined by the
listers that are the least humorous. They will inform you as to the 'humor
day' once it has passed.
So, cut it out!
Remember: "Why should we just get along"? Rod King circa 1990 (a
welder I know)
CB
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From Grglmn at cs.com
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 09:29:45 EST
Subject: Steering Idler-what does it do?
You don't want the steering idler to have any siginificant resistance, it is
basically there to complete the steering geometry by giving a pivot point
(which mirrors the pivot point on the steering wheel side, the steering
gearbox)
I often marvel at the complexity of the design of the steering gear of these
cars, rack and pinion seems so much simpler and more intuitive, I think there
were bump steer issues and maybe not a suitable unit available at the time,
which is why rack and pinion wasn't used on the big healeys.
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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 07:37:07 -0700
Subject: Re: Fresh air duct
Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: <Rmoment@aol.com>
To: <pennell@whro.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, November 08, 2002 8:07 PM
Subject: Re: Fresh air duct
> In a message dated 11/08/2002 6:05:26 PM Mountain Standard Time,
> pennell@whro.net writes:
>
>
> > BTW Can the ducting which is now supplied be worked into that orig
shape?
> > I have used several pieces of it and there is no way it can be bent to
that
> > shape unless it is soaked, heated or something!
> >
>
> Working with the ducting is difficult, but it is the same stuff as when
new.
> FIRST you have to stretch it out to its full length. This "softens" it
up
> a bit. Then you'll have to fold the big bend into it, allowing enough to
> stretch rearwards towards the firewall fitting. Even original ducts are
> partially collapsed at the sharpest curvature of the bend. Then you'll
have
> to recompress the front part a ways so that you can tread it forward from
> behind the left wheel arch riser. Then you stuff the bend down into the
> pocket behind the LF wing. Then stretch the rear back to mate with the
> fitting, first slipping the wire clamp over it and also making sure the
open
> end is not partially bent out of shape or folded inwards. It is a close
fit
> to the round metal fitting, even though the edge of this fitting is
rounded
> inwards slightly. Finally you re-stretch the front of the ducting forward
to
> its attaching fitting on the LF cross brace (remember to slip the wire
clamp
> over it just when you're ready to slide it over the forward fitting).
>
> The carbs ought to be off the engine (that is, if the engine is in the
car --
> I would strongly suggest you put the engine in AFTER you fit the ducting
if
> possible). Still you will find you have little surface area to grab to
pull
> the accordian folds out when stretching the duct.
>
> DO NOT soak it in water. It is the aluminum inner layer that is giving
the
> body and stiffness. You'll only end up with a ruined duct where the paper
> has disintegrated off the exterior.
>
> Roger
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From Rmoment at aol.com
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 10:06:19 EST
Subject: Re: Fresh air duct
> I know I'll probably regret this and that Rodger may never speak to me again
> but, this is one of those deals that should be included in the "ok to up
> grade" list of items on these autos. This ducting material is diabolical at
> best. It requires a helper to install, a very patient helper....
> I happen to know that Tom Monaco at Tom's Import Toy Store ( T.I.T.S.) for
> short...503-245-0174 sells a very nice rubberized duct that looks good,
> lasts forever, does not tear, kink, dissolve, and is easily installed...but
> you didn't hear about it from me.
>
I have no problem with upgrades on "drivers". From a practical point of view
they may be more durable and easier to clean. However, if you are trying to
retain originalitly, then you've got to work with those sometimes damnable
parts.
Roger
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Sat, 09 Nov 2002 07:45:45 -0800
Subject: Urethane Bushings; was Re: slide curtains
"THe anti-roll bar rubber bushings are another item that don't hold up. Thely
are under compression when installed and cracks develop at the bulging outer
surface. Moss' bushings are no worse than those from lanly other source.
EXCEPT S-C in England has been offering urethane bushings for a few years and
these do hold up better.
But along this line, I was also told by David Jeffereys, previous and
long-time owner of S-C (and a man of genuine negineering iinterest int eh
quality of products he's had made and sold), that there is an unsuspected
potential problem from using urethane bushings at the inner A-arm positions.
He said the Urethane is stiffer and as the A-arms flex more torsional
stress is translated through the bushings and into the welded mounting
pockets on the frame ( a known area for cracks to develop). That is why the
only urethane bushings I will use are the anti-roll bar/ gearbox "drag-link"
ones."
I tried the urethane bushings on the anti-roll links and the threaded part of
the
links kept snapping off. Further proof of the "if you make one part stronger
something else will break" principle (yes, the links were aftermarket parts that
appear to be made of a very low-grade steel).
FWIW, you can get urethane bushings to fit the anti-roll links from "S-C West,"
aka J.C. Whitney (and others).
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
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From "Linwood Rose" <linwoodrose at hotmail.com>
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Sat, 09 Nov 2002 11:04:50 -0500
Subject: Door Check Strap
Thank you for the clarification. I have checked the photos in my 8-10 Healey
books, Norman Nock's restoration photos and hundreds of my own photos and
have discovered that photographing that aspect of our cars is obviously not
a common practice - even by accident!
Lin Rose
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From "I Erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 08:29:24 -0800
Subject: RE: Non-Healey was: Original Austin Healey - Mistaken
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Steve Byers
Sent: Saturday, November 09, 2002 5:57 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Non-Healey was: Original Austin Healey - Mistaken
Bill, your comment made me curious so I did some quick internet research,
too.
It seems that the quote is attributed to lots of people, but I couldn't find
any of them that gave the actual source of the quote.
I don't know now where I got the attribution to Mark Twain, but I have had
that idea for a long, long time. In any event, from what I have read about
Mark, it sounds like something he would have said. Until better proof
comes
along, I'll continue to give him the credit.
Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
----- Original Message -----
From: bn1@pacbell.net
To: Steve Byers ; healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Saturday, November 09, 2002 7:44 AM
Subject: Re: Non-Healey was: Original Austin Healey - Mistaken
Steve Byers wrote:
> Or, as Mark Twain once said (and as I used to use as my signature line):
"It
> is better to remain silent and be thought a fool....than to speak, and
remove
> all doubt."
A long time ago when I first saw this in your sig line, I researched and
found it
to be attributed to Abe Lincoln, Mark Twain, Ben Franklin, Samuel Johnson
and even Confucius!
I love it and it has prompted me to keep my mouth shut more than once :-)
Does anybody really know who said it?
Bill Barnett
'53 BN1 #663
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From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 21:47:36 -0500
Subject: RE: BJ8 tuning gear
2 and 3. I just set my carbs with the lift-the-dashpot
method.
4. I have a Unisyn but I prefer the Moss SU tool kit.
It consists of a three wire gadgets (you only need the
third one if you have a tricarb) which slip into the dashpots,
so that you can compare the relative height of each.
5. My Sears adjustable timing light has two power leads
and an inductive pickup. For postive ground, connect the
red lead to ground and the black to a power source.
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of rdavies
Sent: Friday, November 08, 2002 11:14 AM
To: Healeys
Subject: BJ8 tuning gear
Back in 65-70 I did my own basic engine work on my BJ8; plugs, condensor,
points, timing, valves, etc. That was a long time ago. On this rainy morning
in California my BJ8 just cries out for a tuneup.
I'd appreciate some feedback, pros and cons, on the merits of purchasing the
following from the Moss catalog:
1. clikadjust (valves)
2. gunson's colortune (glass topped spark plug)
3. exhaust gas analyzer
4. carb synchronizer (airflow between multiple carbs)
5. where to get a pos ground timing light.
Also, any suggestions on other tools, books, manuals or videos for tune ups
would be very helpful.
Thanks again :-)
Ronald O. Davies
67 BJ8
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 12:11:20 EST
Subject: Re: Product Quality
<< Listers,
Since we are on the topic of product quality , again. Can someone give
me any advice on Moss's syncro rings that I just purchased for my BT7.
2nd gear ring looks symmetrical(ok) but the two for 3rd and 4th look
a-symmetrical. The "little house"syncro tabs look very lop sided and not
proportioned well at all. Infact the overall appearance (color) is
different between 2nd and 3/4 rings.
Is this an area of "you get what you pay for" and what effect would
these have on the operations of my transmission? Has anyone questioned Moss
on these yet?
>>
We have had problems with these not lasting. We have had several instances
were they only last a very short time , I had a set that was installed by a
shop prior to us finishing a restoration that last less than 10 miles.
We have a set that we have been using that are hardened that last but are
quit a bit more costly.
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at <A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Healey International 2002</A>
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 12:19:50 EST
Subject: Re: Urethane Bushings; was Re: slide curtains
<< I tried the urethane bushings on the anti-roll links and the threaded part
of the
links kept snapping off. Further proof of the "if you make one part stronger
something else will break" principle (yes, the links were aftermarket parts
that
appear to be made of a very low-grade steel).
>>
The links commonly break because the plates that attach them tho the lower
control arm are installed on the wrtong side. If you install them incorrectly
the link will not be vertical when the car is in the loaded position, this
will break the links no matter which bushings you are usiong.
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at <A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Healey International 2002</A>
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From Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 13:25:19 -0500
Subject: BJ8 Parts Manual
Scot
'66 BJ8
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From pcowper at webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 10:56:32 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Replacement Parts Suppliers
Do we really want to push all these "hawkers of shoddy merchandise" out
of business . . . so we can return to searching for our replacement
parts in the aisles of the Pomona Swap Meet or scrape rust off those we
find behind barns?
When I first got my 1960 BT7 in February 1968. I needed a 3000 spear for
the trunk. I went to the local BMC dealer who ordered it and it finally
arrived about 6 weeks later. A few years later when I had the car torn
apart for repainting, I tried to order some more parts from the same BMC
dealer, who said "Sorry, BMC says they are no longer supplying parts for
your 1960 Austin Healey." That was about the time I began dealing with
Moss Motors.
I have always been satisfied with the service and parts from Moss.
Their overhead to stock parts seldom called for is obviously much higher
than a local Napa Part Store. The parts I have received have always
worked (well excepting those damn short lived Lucas voltage regulators)
and have kept my Healey on the road.
I stopped about 6 years ago in their new shop in Goleta (the week they
had just moved) to look at their replacement red plastic reflector
bullets. The sales manager who spoke with me said they had tried
various suppliers for the "red bullets" over the years, but had never
been satisfied with the translucency. They finally found some from
China which appeared red on the outside but did not reduce the ability
of the reflector inside to still be seen from the rear. That concern
about such a small insignificant product impressed me that they do care
about the quality of their replacement products. The recent thread
about kingpins shows that they are concerned and continue to seek better
quality if and when it becomes available.
Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
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From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: HoYo
To: nltharp@prodigy.net
Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 10:57:15 -0800
Subject: Re: gas tank / Bob's battery cable
18" @ $100.00 ??, thats $5.55555 per inch !!! talk about foolish.
18,000,000,000 (nano inches) @ $100.00, thats
$0.0000000055 (nano bucks) per inch.
"One per minute is born."
I'm sure Roger would have a prestine (not "old beat up original")
NOS to sell, lets say for $10.00.
Now, have Roger's NOS part duplicated ("molded") by
one of Auburn Design Group'ees loyal source's.
By leaning on his loyal source (with his slick tongue),
I'm sure Bob can get a real deal.
Let's say $1.00 a pop.
Now outsource some "O" or "OO" welding cable @ $0.89
per foot, that's $1.335 for 18" or $0.0741666 per inch.
(Cheaper in quantity)
Excluding the NOS from Roger, the total parts cost is $3.335
per unit. (2ea NOS's and 1ea cable).
Assembly should take approx six minutes, that's 1/10 hour.
Since we (Healeydudes) work for -$0.45 cents per hour
the total OTD (out the door) cost per unit is $2.885 ea.
(I run a Union shop, so I've taken the full hour for assembly.)
Now that we have the production cost figured, 1,000 units @
$2.885 ea = $2,885.00.
YES, EVERYONE ON THE LIST NEEDS ONE.
(1,000 units @ $100.00 ea = $100,00.00. Profit = $97,115)
"LET'S PARTY"
We can do better than that for our Healey List Brethren.
Sale/Offer price,
Let's be nice and make um a deal they cain't refuse,
(now that we have reproduction NOS "proper part availability")
I'LL LEAVE THE PRICING TO YOU,
Suggestion for pricing,
Since you think $4.95 is a fair price for the cable and we can make
them for $2.885 (the difference being $2.065) let's price them at
(half the difference $1.0325) $2.885 + $1.0325 = $3.9175 ea.
Still making a tidy profit of $1,032.00.
NUFF SAID !!! ???
Kirk ;-)
----- Original Message -----
From: "R.Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, November 09, 2002 7:26 AM
Subject: Re: gas tank
> Let me add something else to ponder regarding aftermarket replacement
parts.
> Parts are not priced by traditional methods of costing. They are priced by
> availability, a method normally used for NOS parts. A good example, I
recently
> bought an 18" battery cable that goes between two six volt batteries. On
each
> end is a lead "helmet" that says Lucas on it. The mold was made from an
old beat
> up original and one can barely read the Lucas on it, but theoretically, I
guess,
> they are made to like worn, old original pieces. This is all that is
available.
> There is no proper piece that looks like new, freshly made Lucas pieces.
So, for
> all intents and purposes, these are crap parts. That 18" piece cost me
$100.00.
> A normal 18" battery cable would have been around $4.95. I had no choice
but to
> accept it because I wanted a "proper" part.
>
> Slvrbulit2@aol.com wrote:
>
> > Can anyone tell me a good place to get a gas tank for a '60 BT7? I
ordered
> > one from one catalog and it was dented and the paint had runs all over
it. I
> > sent that one back. Then I ordered one from a different catalog and
they
> > sent me one with the same part number from the first catalog, plus their
own
> > part number. This tank was also dented and the paint had runs all over
it
> > too. Am I expecting too much for the money I am spending, or are all
the
> > tanks like this?
> > Seth
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From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <bn1@pacbell.net>; "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>;
Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 11:02:14 -0800
Subject: Re: Non-Healey was: Original Austin Healey - Mistaken
> "GOD" said it.
>
> When Adam wanted a bite of Eve's..... apple.
>
> Kirk
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <bn1@pacbell.net>
> To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, November 09, 2002 4:44 AM
> Subject: Re: Non-Healey was: Original Austin Healey - Mistaken
>
>
> > Steve Byers wrote:
> >
> > > Or, as Mark Twain once said (and as I used to use as my signature
line):
> "It
> > > is better to remain silent and be thought a fool....than to speak, and
> remove
> > > all doubt."
> >
> > A long time ago when I first saw this in your sig line, I researched and
> found it
> > to be attributed to Abe Lincoln, Mark Twain, Ben Franklin, Samuel
Johnson
> > and even Confucius!
> >
> > I love it and it has prompted me to keep my mouth shut more than once
:-)
> > Does anybody really know who said it?
> >
> > Bill Barnett
> > '53 BN1 #663
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From MOWOGMAN at aol.com
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <bn1@pacbell.net>; "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>;
Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 14:08:13 EST
Subject: Re: gas tank / Bob's battery cable
Hey, I thought this is what we all did! This is what I used to call
"restoring a car" it was fun, you did most of the work yourself, you made
things or had them remade. When it was done, you proudly stood by it and
said "Look what I did!, And when you drove it, with all your efforts singing
in harmony, oh what a feeling!
Nowadays, The boast I hear most often is "yes, that's my car, I had such and
such restore it" etc, etc, etc.
> Hey Bob,
> How about pondering (pounding) this ???
>
> 18" @ $100.00 ??, thats $5.55555 per inch !!! talk about foolish.
>
> 18,000,000,000 (nano inches) @ $100.00, thats
> $0.0000000055 (nano bucks) per inch.
>
> "One per minute is born."
>
> I'm sure Roger would have a prestine (not "old beat up original")
> NOS to sell, lets say for $10.00.
>
> Now, have Roger's NOS part duplicated ("molded") by
> one of Auburn Design Group'ees loyal source's.
> By leaning on his loyal source (with his slick tongue),
> I'm sure Bob can get a real deal.
>
> Let's say $1.00 a pop.
>
> Now outsource some "O" or "OO" welding cable @ $0.89
> per foot, that's $1.335 for 18" or $0.0741666 per inch.
> (Cheaper in quantity)
>
> Excluding the NOS from Roger, the total parts cost is $3.335
> per unit. (2ea NOS's and 1ea cable).
>
> Assembly should take approx six minutes, that's 1/10 hour.
>
> Since we (Healeydudes) work for -$0.45 cents per hour
> the total OTD (out the door) cost per unit is $2.885 ea.
> (I run a Union shop, so I've taken the full hour for assembly.)
>
> Now that we have the production cost figured, 1,000 units @
> $2.885 ea = $2,885.00.
> YES, EVERYONE ON THE LIST NEEDS ONE.
> (1,000 units @ $100.00 ea = $100,00.00. Profit = $97,115)
> "LET'S PARTY"
> We can do better than that for our Healey List Brethren.
>
> Sale/Offer price,
> Let's be nice and make um a deal they cain't refuse,
> (now that we have reproduction NOS "proper part availability")
>
> I'LL LEAVE THE PRICING TO YOU,
>
> Suggestion for pricing,
>
> Since you think $4.95 is a fair price for the cable and we can make
> them for $2.885 (the difference being $2.065) let's price them at
> (half the difference $1.0325) $2.885 + $1.0325 = $3.9175 ea.
>
> Still making a tidy profit of $1,032.00.
>
> NUFF SAID !!! ???
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From pcowper at webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <bn1@pacbell.net>; "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>;
Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 11:50:56 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Exhaust Gas Analyzer
About 15 years ago I assembled a $129.00 Heathkit Exhaust Gas Analyzer
to set the mixture on my 1974 Porsche 911S with Bosch CIS injection. It
is a necessity to adjust CIS mixture.
About 5 years ago or so I got the bright idea that I could adjust my
Healey to be more environmentally sensitive after noting the black soot
it left against a white painted wall when I fired it up after a local
A&W Cruise Night. My Healey has always run very strongly and fired
right up since rebuilding my carburetors in about 1969-70.
My analyzer scale reads from 11.5 Air/Fuel mix marked 70% combustion
efficiency on the left of the scale in the red rich side ("standard
idle") to 15.0 Air/Fuel mix marked 90% efficiency on the right side of
the scale in the green lean side ("ECS idle"). The area in the middle
of the scale from 12.9 Air/Fuel mix to about 13.7 Air/Fuel mix is left
white as the "good combustion" range. My analyzer is accurate as my
2.0-2.5% CO adjustment settings on my 1974 911S have always agreed with
the readings on the high tech machines at my state smog test performed
every other year.
I stuck the probe into my idling Healey's tailpipe and the needle sunk
all the way down and pegged against the red "rich" side. I started
leaning the mixture screws and brought the needle up into the white area
between 13.0 and 13.5 (80% combustion efficiency/ 4% CO). I was so
happy . . . my Healey and I could now drive around doing our part to
clean the air.
I pulled out of the driveway and took off down the road. The poor thing
was missing like crazy as I tried to accelerate. It showed that it was
warmed up on the temperature gauge, but I had to pull out the choke to
get it to accelerate without stumbling and straining.
I pulled back into the driveway and began revving up the engine at idle.
As I tried to accelerate quickly there was a distinct miss as if a plug
was not firing. Hmmm . . . I didn't touch any of the ignition system.
I popped the distributor cap, checked points, checked plug wires, etc.
Began it think . . . pulling choke on richens mixture for starting. . .
so I revved the engine up where to where it was missing and enriched
each carb slightly. Miss starts to disappear. I slowly enriched each
carburetor until it would rev up quickly without missing or faltering.
Stuck Exhaust Analyzer probe back in the tailpipe . . . needle again
sank down against the pin on the left rich side of the scale. I found
that the missing quit and the engine ran healthy about 1/2 turn lean of
where the black smoke begins to drift out of the tailpipes at idle. Car
still feels like it is straining under heavy acceleration and has a
"blaaat" sound rather that my previous hearty roar. Guess I need to
enrich it further into the "black soot drifting out of the tailpipe at
idle" range and just not back into spaces against white walls at car
shows.
So much for tuning a 1960 Austin Healey SU carbureted six with modern
engine testing equipment ( . . . and so much for environmental
correctness).
Pete Cowper -1960 BT7
(Address and Air Pollution Control District withheld)
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From "eugene faust" <ejfaust at worldnet.att.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <bn1@pacbell.net>; "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>;
Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 14:52:13 -0500
Subject: Rear springs
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From Ah59bn4 at aol.com
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <bn1@pacbell.net>; "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>;
Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 15:37:36 EST
Subject: Re: Rear Springs
Bill Percival 59 BN4 in 63rd week of 12 week restoration
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From Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <bn1@pacbell.net>; "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>;
Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 14:00:18 -0500
Subject: Re: Fresh air duct
On the subject of the fresh air ducting, is there a cleaning method/solvent
available make the original ducting material look better if it is still
seviceable?
I have the original material in my BJ8 and am looking for a way to
otherwise preserve it's service life.
Scot
'66 BJ8
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From APPRAISE11 at aol.com
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <bn1@pacbell.net>; "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>;
Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 16:01:11 EST
Subject: paint code and wire wheels
thanks mitch
1963bj7
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From "R. Poague" <rapoague at gte.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <bn1@pacbell.net>; "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>;
Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 13:26:53 -0800
Subject: Re: how to install fan
My understanding is that the uneven fan blade spacing (on many other cars as
well as Healeys) is to reduce fan noise.
Bob P.
BJ7
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From "Charlie & Adriane" <chadstew at texas.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <bn1@pacbell.net>; "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>;
Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 09:55:20 -0600
Subject: Rear Bumper Clearance
I cleaned the Healey this morning to get ready for a multi-marque TSD Rallye
put on by the Tejas Miata club. As I was cleaning the rear bumper, I remember
comparing some other early cars to mine and noticed other cars, early and late
had the bumpers very close in... so close, it didn't look as though the boot
lid would clear the overriders. Mine on the other hand clears with many
inches. What gives? I was looking at Blair Harbers great side picture of his
#1 made Healey in the latest British Car magazine and his looks close in like
all the others.
My guess would be that I have replacement support brackets for the rear
bumper, and I hate to think why they were replaced :o The car doesn't show
any tell tell signs that it was ever rear ended though...
Charlie Stewart
Nov. '53 A-H BN1
chadstew@texas.net
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From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <bn1@pacbell.net>; "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>;
Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 15:29:41 -0600
Subject: Re: Urethane Bushings; was Re: slide curtains
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <bspidell@pacbell.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, November 09, 2002 11:19 AM
Subject: Re: Urethane Bushings; was Re: slide curtains
> In a message dated 11/9/02 7:46:50 AM, bspidell@pacbell.net writes:
>
> << I tried the urethane bushings on the anti-roll links and the threaded
part
> of the
> links kept snapping off. Further proof of the "if you make one part
stronger
> something else will break" principle (yes, the links were aftermarket
parts
> that
> appear to be made of a very low-grade steel).
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From "R.Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <bn1@pacbell.net>; "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>;
Date: Sat, 09 Nov 2002 06:52:19 -0800
Subject: Re: gas tank
Somebody please tell Seth where he can find a decent replacement gas tank.
Pretty simple request. I'll bet if you say M*ss, he'll tell he's already tried
that one.
Bob Denton
Slvrbulit2@aol.com wrote:
> Can anyone tell me a good place to get a gas tank for a '60 BT7? I ordered
> one from one catalog and it was dented and the paint had runs all over it. I
> sent that one back. Then I ordered one from a different catalog and they
> sent me one with the same part number from the first catalog, plus their own
> part number. This tank was also dented and the paint had runs all over it
> too. Am I expecting too much for the money I am spending, or are all the
> tanks like this?
> Seth
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From "Gary R. Cox" <gcox at tampabay.rr.com>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <bn1@pacbell.net>; "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>;
Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 17:59:35 -0500
Subject: Re: paint code and wire wheels
Gary R. Cox
Bradenton, FL
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: <APPRAISE11@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, November 09, 2002 4:01 PM
Subject: paint code and wire wheels
> hi everybody,
> does anybody know where i can find the correct paint code for red used on
a
> 1963
> bj7. where is the best place to purchase a new set of 72 spoke wheels for
my
> car.
>
> thanks mitch
> 1963bj7
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From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 14:08:56 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: BJ8 Parts Manual
--Scott Morris
--- Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com> wrote: << Does anyone know
if there was just one edition of the BJ8 service parts manual or did
BMC print one for every year of the BJ8? I came across one printed in
1964 but it covers the BJ7 and BJ8. Could this be for all the years?
I'm trying to get the correct one. Any insight appreciated...... --Scot
'66 BJ8 >>
=====
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
______________________________________________________________________
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
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From GeneralFolder at aol.com
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 18:30:11 EST
Subject: re: Top 10 list of mechnical & technological Healey
Just wondering if there is a top 10 or at least a running list of
"considerable" improvements that are worth pursuing when planning a
restoration project of our 62' tricarb?
With the house re-fi'd and a couple of dollars pulled out - I finally have
the bread to seriously finance the project.
The goal is to have a reliable daily driver - that takes advantage of 40
years of mechanical & technological enhancements - AND - still retains its
"kick ass" vintage style.
I'm a lil' familiar with the Jule frame, Smitty's tranny kit and the Blistein
shocks - I'm just curious as to what other options I should look at before I
roll the car out of the garage and send it on its merry way to a reputable
restorer.
Any feedback offline or to the list, is greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Alfred Haymond
Pasadena, California
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From john spaur <jmsdarch at infoasis.com>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
Date: Fri, 08 Nov 2002 17:01:28 -0800
Subject: Fwd: Re: slide curtains
John
'62 BT7
>I DO use Moss parts. Some they have had made up on their own that are
>perfectly fine. Others I have worked with them to improve -- getting the
>correct 9" original wiper refills, better king pins, for example), and still
>others they have gone after the improvement themselves -- the rear springs
>for example.
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 06:49:04 -0500
Subject: Re: gas tank
Just my .065 cents.
CB
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 06:55:10 -0500
Subject: Re: Top 10 list of mechnical & technological Healey
Sell the car; better yet give it to some unsuspecting senior person
(sorry, that's another subject) so they can find out that it's much more
fun, and easier, to get a six-year-old Honda Accord and 'restore' it.
British cars, and their parts suppliers, are 'bad JU-JU'!!
Just trying to help,
CB
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From JXLmail at aol.com
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 18:59:50 EST
Subject: Radio and antenna installed in a BN2
I love my 100 but I have got to have a radio. I looked at a promotional
poster of the 100 that Donald Healey was sitting in with Lord Austin standing
near by. The car has an antenna installed in the middle of the left front
fender. I have a mirror installed in the same location. I could remove the
mirror. Drill out the hole. Install the antenna and run the coax back to the
trunk. Another option is to install a "chain mount". This type of antenna
mount is basically strapping the antenna mount to the rear bumper using small
chains as straps and alot of threaded "J" shaped hooks .
I really like the use of the mirror. I did not like the look of a chain
mount so I bought a chain mount and a antenna (radio antenna is 31 inches). I
flattened out the bracket that came with the mount kit that is used to hold
the antenna. I attached the bracked to one of two bolts inside of the trunk
that support the rear bumpper. I attached the antenna to the bracket so that
it floats across the trunk between the rear edge of the gas tank and inside
lip of the rearend sheet metal. The antenna can be removed quickly and if my
wife ever wants to get rid of me she could swap the radio for something that
transmitts energy like a CB.
Jim L.
56 BN2
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From "Charlie & Adriane" <chadstew at texas.net>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 13:58:28 -0600
Subject: Rear Bumper Brackets BN1
Listers,
I cleaned the Healey this morning to get ready for a multi-marque TSD Rallye
put on by the Tejas Miata club. As I was cleaning the rear bumper, I remember
comparing some other early cars to mine and noticed the other cars, early and
late A-H's had the bumpers very close in... so close, it didn't look as though
the boot lid would clear the overriders. Mine on the other hand clears with
many inches. What gives? I was looking at Blair Harbers side picture of his
#1 made Healey in the latest British Car magazine and his looks close in like
all the others.
My guess would be that I have replacement support brackets for the rear bumper
that are not to spec... I hate to think why they were replaced :o The car
doesn't show any tell tell signs that it was ever rear ended though...
Charlie Stewart
Nov. '53 A-H BN1
chadstew@texas.net
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From "R. Poague" <rapoague at gte.net>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 16:05:31 -0800
Subject: Restoration
----- Original Message -----
From: <MOWOGMAN@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, November 09, 2002 11:08 AM
Subject: Re: gas tank / Bob's battery cable
> Hey, I thought this is what we all did! This is what I used to call
> "restoring a car" it was fun, you did most of the work yourself, you made
> things or had them remade. When it was done, you proudly stood by it and
> said "Look what I did!, And when you drove it, with all your efforts
singing
> in harmony, oh what a feeling! Nowadays, The boast I hear most often is
"yes, >that's my car, I had such and such restore it" etc, etc, etc.
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 19:13:51 -0600
Subject: Re: Product Quality
Mark
>
> << Listers,
> Since we are on the topic of product quality , again. Can someone
give
> me any advice on Moss's syncro rings that I just purchased for my BT7.
> 2nd gear ring looks symmetrical(ok) but the two for 3rd and 4th look
> a-symmetrical. The "little house"syncro tabs look very lop sided and not
> proportioned well at all. Infact the overall appearance (color) is
> different between 2nd and 3/4 rings.
> Is this an area of "you get what you pay for" and what effect would
> these have on the operations of my transmission? Has anyone questioned
Moss
> on these yet?
> >>
>
> We have had problems with these not lasting. We have had several instances
> were they only last a very short time , I had a set that was installed by
a
> shop prior to us finishing a restoration that last less than 10 miles.
> We have a set that we have been using that are hardened that last but are
> quit a bit more costly.
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From "James Sailer" <heliskier at direcway.com>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 17:11:30 -0700
Subject: Differential Gasket
Can anyone tell me who offers a quality gasket ... differential to rear...
the one I got from MXSS was too small.... truly..I was amazed...it was also
as thin as waxed paper.....and was hoping to get my BJ8 back on wheels this
weekend.... Oh well.....
Otherwise.. I'm progressing well with the resto... and having a ball..
Thanks...
Jim Sailer 66 BJ8
PS... My new Cooper S got a build number Friday.... should be here in
February...
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From "Dallas Congleton" <dcong996 at earthlink.net>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 19:21:13 -0500
Subject: Parts and Suppliers
my .02 worth
Dallas Congleton
1967 BJ8 41193
1953 MGTD 25937
1989 Jaguar XJS-12 Conv
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From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
Date: Sat, 09 Nov 2002 18:35:26 -0600
Subject: Re: gas tank
"Classic Choice" <classic.choice@virgin.net>
Best regards. Jim Hockert
>Somebody please tell Seth where he can find a decent replacement gas tank.
>
>
> > Can anyone tell me a good place to get a gas tank for a '60 BT7?
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From "Ryan at Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 19:48:48 -0500
Subject: Need picture/diagram of HS6 carbs
thanks
Ryan
BJ7
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From "Sigi B.- Koenigs" <SigiBKoenigs at comcast.net>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
Date: Sat, 09 Nov 2002 19:57:57 -0500
Subject: continental exhaust
Sigi
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From "John Peak" <johnepeak at hotmail.com>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
Date: Sat, 09 Nov 2002 17:08:18 -0800
Subject: Re: gas tank
CB,
Actually, I have a Japanese vintage sports car. It's a Datsun 2000 roadster
that I have owned for 25 years. Although they were produced in about the
same numbers as big Healeys, parts availability is very poor. I would love
to have access to some replacement parts even if they are crap! It would be
better than nothing.
It is great to have access to so many parts from Moss, VB, and the others,
and a true luxury to be able to bitch about the quality. I can restore the
Healey for a fraction of the cost of restoring the Datsun, and the car will
actually be worth something when done!
I think Roger is on the right track in trying to work with the suppliers to
improve the quality and originality of the parts. We need the supliers as
much as they need us. So work to fix the problems don't just complain and
we will all be better off for it.
Just my $.02
John
'59 BN7
'58 BN4
'70 2000 roadster
_________________________________________________________________
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From Grglmn at cs.com
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 20:11:47 EST
Subject: Radio and Antenna Installation on Healey
Radio mounts under parcel tray (BN1) without drilling any extra holes by
creating some brackets, speakers behind seats next to driveline hump, just
sitting there, they have nowhere to go, no drilling there either.
Interesting to hear some creative ideas for antenna mounting, may need to
re-think my less than ideal arrangement.
The infamous "Mel Torme Road Tests the Austin Healey" Car Life, 1955, shows
an antenna mounted on the front fender, drivers side (left) a few inches in
front of the foward mount for the windscreen post (the one used for screen
lowered position) and to the outside of the fender bead (as far as I can
tell), radio mounted below the center area of the dash, with a speaker
bracket mounted right behind the front bulkhead and over the tranny hump.
Happy Healying
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
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From William Moyer <William.Moyer at millersville.edu>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 20:18:14 -0500
Subject: RE: Top 10 list of mechnical & technological Healey
How about safety issues? How aggressively are you going to drive? Three
point seat belts might be a minimum. I'd vote to allow a collapsing
steering column into perfection class if it isn't already. We don't need a
spear pointed at our chests and perfect cars should be safely driveable.
End of rant. Need bigger anti-roll bars? Wider tires? Stickier tires?
More expensive tires? Special attention to steering and braking? You don't
need to move. You need to steer and stop. Moving is the icing on the cake.
All light's work? While idiling? Mine don't blink below 1K rpm and when it
matters, I idle at 1K.
You're on a great journey. Take plenty of pictures, more than you think you
want to. Many more.
Good Luck,
Good Work,
Good Job.
Bill Moyer, BJ7 known far and wide as Chimera
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From JXLmail at aol.com
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 20:21:09 EST
Subject: Re: Radio and Antenna Installation on Healey
Greg,
> I mounted two $14 indoor/outdoor sealed speakers on the parcel tray. The
> radio/CD player is mounted on the shelf for the cut-off switch. The radio
> came with a wired remote that I ran back to the driving compartment.
Jim L.
BN 2
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 21:04:27 EST
Subject: Re: Top 10 list of mechnical & technological Healey
<< Just wondering if there is a top 10 or at least a running list of
"considerable" improvements that are worth pursuing when planning a
restoration project of our 62' tricarb? >>
There are plenty of things that many Healey lovers do to their cars.
Rear main oil seal
Radial tires
Good seat belts
Alternator and negative grounding for better current, safer jump starting,
etc.
Electronic ignition
Increased cooling capacity
My personal car has many "performance upgrades as well, all reversable.
Thicker anti-roll bar
Bilstein Shocks
Alloy wheels/wider tires
Stiffer steering wheel
Increased lighting ability
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 21:16:40 EST
Subject: Fwd: Radio and Antenna Installation on Healey
> Since I was going to be out of radio range on the way to Tahoe I installed
> an XM set (the receiver attaches to and runs thru my preexisting radio).
> The antennae looks and is the size of a computer mouse and sits rather
> inconspicuously on the rear deck in front of the boot lid. It's all that I
> listen to now.
>
> Michael Oritt, BN1
Return-path: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
From: Awgertoo@aol.com
Full-name: Awgertoo
Message-ID: <a3.31f45209.2aff1b5b@aol.com>
Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 21:15:55 EST
Subject: Re: Radio and Antenna Installation on Healey
To: Grglmn@cs.com
MIME-Version: 1.0
X-Mailer: AOL 7.0 for Windows US sub 10637
Since I was going to be out of radio range on the way to Tahoe I installed an
XM set (the receiver attaches to and runs thru my preexisting radio). The
antennae looks and is the size of a computer mouse and sits rather
inconspicuously on the rear deck in front of the boot lid. It's all that I
listen to now.
Michael Oritt, BN1
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From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 21:19:25 EST
Subject: Re: Differential Gasket
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From "Robert Wiley" <wileyrob at pacifier.com>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
Date: Sat, 09 Nov 2002 19:20:42 -0800
Subject: Re: continental exhaust
Last time a checked I believe people thought that Falcon bought them out.
Bob
----------
>From: "Sigi B.- Koenigs" <SigiBKoenigs@comcast.net>
>To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: continental exhaust
>Date: Sat, Nov 9, 2002, 4:57 PM
>
> Listers,
> One of my many projects is the restoration of a 3000 MK2 "Export". The
> heritage certificate indicates that the car originally had the
> continental exhaust system (mix of MK1 and MK3 = routing like Mk3, but 2
> single silencers instead of 2x 2silencers) installed. Unfortunately the
> car had nothing of it left when I acquired the car.
> I am searching for help to find a complete system or parts of it for
> purchase or sources/drawings allowing manufacturing the "continental"
> exhaust system.
> Please reply off list.
>
> Sigi
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 22:30:25 -0500
Subject: Close call.
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7 tri-carb
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From john spaur <jmsdarch at infoasis.com>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
Date: Sat, 09 Nov 2002 19:18:17 -0800
Subject: Re: Fresh air duct
John
'62 BT7
At 10:07 PM 11/8/02 -0500, Rmoment@aol.com wrote:
>In a message dated 11/08/2002 6:05:26 PM Mountain Standard Time,
>pennell@whro.net writes:
>
>
> > BTW Can the ducting which is now supplied be worked into that orig
> shape?
> > I have used several pieces of it and there is no way it can be bent to
> that
> > shape unless it is soaked, heated or something!
> >
>Roger Moment wrote:
>....Working with the ducting is difficult, but it is the same stuff as
>when new.
> FIRST you have to stretch it out to its full length. This "softens" it up
>a bit. .....
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 00:10:05 -0500
Subject: Re: Rear Bumper Clearance
Are you aware that there are slots in the brackets at the attachment point
of the brackets to the frame? This may only gain you an inch or so if any.
I can actually move the bumper in so that the overriders will interfere with
the trunk lid on both my cars. At the same attachment points there is also
some vertical adjustment to the bumper position.
Have you looked to see if the bumper is twisted so that the overriders are
not vertical? I have observed this on a number of cars before. The bumper
all across should be pretty much parallel with the road.
Keith Pennell
> Listers,
>
> I cleaned the Healey this morning to get ready for a multi-marque TSD
Rallye
> put on by the Tejas Miata club. As I was cleaning the rear bumper, I
remember
> comparing some other early cars to mine and noticed other cars, early and
late
> had the bumpers very close in... so close, it didn't look as though the
boot
> lid would clear the overriders. Mine on the other hand clears with many
> inches. What gives? I was looking at Blair Harbers great side picture of
his
> #1 made Healey in the latest British Car magazine and his looks close in
like
> all the others.
>
> My guess would be that I have replacement support brackets for the rear
> bumper, and I hate to think why they were replaced :o The car doesn't
show
> any tell tell signs that it was ever rear ended though...
>
> Charlie Stewart
> Nov. '53 A-H BN1
> chadstew@texas.net
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 00:15:10 -0500
Subject: Re: Steering Idler-what does it do?
Just a thought
Keith Pennell
Keith Pennell
> Since no one else has that I have seen I will take a stab at this. There
are
> probably others better qualified.
>
> You don't want the steering idler to have any siginificant resistance, it
is
> basically there to complete the steering geometry by giving a pivot point
> (which mirrors the pivot point on the steering wheel side, the steering
> gearbox)
>
> I often marvel at the complexity of the design of the steering gear of
these
> cars, rack and pinion seems so much simpler and more intuitive, I think
there
> were bump steer issues and maybe not a suitable unit available at the
time,
> which is why rack and pinion wasn't used on the big healeys.
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
Date: Sat, 09 Nov 2002 22:56:48 -0700
Subject: Re: how to install fan
Bill Lawrence
Steve Byers wrote:
> Hi, Ryan -
>
> It's correct that the fan blades are not at 90 degrees to each other. Why
> was it done this way? I don't know, but even the 6 blades on the "Texas
> Kooler" are not symmetrical. I have been told that the fan runs quieter with
> unevenly-spaced blades.
>
> Happy Healeying!
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC USA
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Ryan@Ledwith
> To: Healey List
> Sent: Friday, November 08, 2002 10:43 PM
> Subject: how to install fan
>
> Folks:
>
> I'm putting my fan on my car (BJ7) and the way the bolts line up, the
> blades
> are not at 90% from one another. Rather, it is more like 60% 120% 60% and
> 120% (the two pieces fit so that each of the 4 blades are at (on a clock): 8
> &
> 10 and 2 & 4 oclock.)
>
> I have the blades facing the right way, so they all should be scooping air
> into the car as the fan spins clockwise. Why aren't they evenly spaced
> from
> one another
>
> Is this right? Am I missing something? Even the simple things are hard?
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
Date: Sat, 09 Nov 2002 22:57:13 -0700
Subject: Re: Steering Idler-what does it do?
Bill Lawrence
Grglmn@cs.com wrote:
> Since no one else has that I have seen I will take a stab at this. There are
> probably others better qualified.
>
> You don't want the steering idler to have any siginificant resistance, it is
> basically there to complete the steering geometry by giving a pivot point
> (which mirrors the pivot point on the steering wheel side, the steering
> gearbox)
>
> I often marvel at the complexity of the design of the steering gear of these
> cars, rack and pinion seems so much simpler and more intuitive, I think there
> were bump steer issues and maybe not a suitable unit available at the time,
> which is why rack and pinion wasn't used on the big healeys.
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From AHCUSA at go.com
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
Date: Sat, 09 Nov 2002 21:40:32 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Digital Camera Advice Sought - NO Healey Content
I'm thinking of buying a digital camera. My specs:
-- I want to take photos with adequate quality for publication, up to at least
full-page size (8 1/2 x 11 inches) without showing pixilation. Hi-res is good.
-- A built-in zoom lens would be a big plus.
-- A built-in flash would be a plus.
-- Budget limit of maybe $1500-ish.
-- Want to try to avoid something that will quickly become yesterday's
technology (I can dream, can't I?).
I know little of the jargon and state-of-this art, so please speak in layman's
terms. Thanks in advance for any assistance. Private replies to
AHCUSA@go.com, and again, sorry to bomb the list with an off-topic request.
Reid Trummel
Doha, Qatar
Arabian Gulf
"Operation Enduring Freedom"
___________________________________________________
GO.com Mail
Get Your Free, Private E-mail at http://mail.go.com
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From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 04:16:08 EST
Subject: Re: Phase 2 BJ8 Rear Subframe
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 06:23:52 -0600
Subject: Re: Radio and Antenna Installation on Healey
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 06:36:15 -0600
Subject: Re: Steering Idler-what does it do?
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 08:13:05 -0500
Subject: Re: Radio and Antenna Installation on Healey
On my BJ8, they put it on the passenger side cowl.
--
John Miller, N4VU
Imagination is more important than knowledge.
-- Albert Einstein
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From Ptuleysr at cs.com
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 08:47:40 EST
Subject: dash furflex
Price
60 BT7
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From Rick Swain <grain at auracom.com>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 08:55:17 -0400
Subject: Jule Frames
Thanks
Rick
59 BN4
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From Austin Healey <ah62bn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 06:18:52 -0800 (PST)
Subject: 4 seater factory hardtop
There's an original factory Healey hardtop on eBay.
The seller says it's for a 4 seater. I have no
connection to this.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1871885199&rd=1
Bob S.
__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
U2 on LAUNCH - Exclusive greatest hits videos
http://launch.yahoo.com/u2
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From LarryRPH at aol.com
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 10:18:29 EST
Subject: Re: Jule Frames
They are regular advertisers in the "Healey Marque" magazine put out by AHCA.
You may reach them at :
Jule Enterprises-Martin Jansen
RR #2 Rockwood , Ontario, Canada,NOB 2KO
Tel: 905-854-3555
Fax : 905-854-3554
Ps : I have no financial interest!
Larry Wysocki
BN 6
BJ 7
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From Jonathan and Carole Quandt <fourqz at earthlink.net>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 08:02:38 -0800
Subject: 100-4 rear spring packing plates
The question in my mind remains, what is the purpose of the BEVELED plates
and the effect of both these and the fiber-packing piece on the rear
suspension.
Cheers
Jonathan Quandt
BN-2
Northern California
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From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 08:05:42 -0800
Subject: Re: Close call.
Hale to the Healey lest we forget a Hale to the DRIVER
The DRIVER made the Healey do what it did.
Great job, speaks well for both, saving Yourself and the Healey
Kirk
----- Original Message -----
> From: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>
> To: "List Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, November 09, 2002 7:30 PM
> Subject: Close call.
>
>
> > Today I was reminded what a great car the Healey really is. I was taking
> an
> > unexpected drive this afternoon (the temp was 59 F.) and was minding my
> own
> > business down the road at about 45 MPH when a young girl in a Toyota
> pulled
> > out in front of me without looking. I mean she came out of nowhere and
> > didn't slow down when she saw me but kept right on coming. I cranked the
> > wheel hard to the left, went into the oncoming lane, then hard to the
> right
> > and did a complete 360 before I stopped. Luckily the traffic coming the
> > other way was fifty feet away or my new baby would have been a pile or
> > crumpled metal. The girl never stopped but sped away like nothing had
> > happened. As I sat there I realized that if I had been in Detroit or
even
> > modern Japanese iron the close call could/would have had a very
different
> > outcome. The Healey handled perfectly and stuck to the pavement like
glue.
> > So, no harm done except to my underwear but I hope that it doesn't
happen
> > again soon. All hale the wonderful Healey. Cheers, JL
> >
> > James Lea Clockmaker
> > 2 West St. PO Box 25
> > Rockport Maine 04856
> > 1-207-236-3632
> > BT7 tri-carb
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From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: Nelson Tharp
To: 'Kirk Kvam'
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 08:20:26 -0800
Subject: Healey Ice Blue Metalic Paint
Dear Kirk...
One last thing before I become a total pest to you: I'd like some info, if
anyone has it, on a current paint code for Healey Ice Blue Metalic. One
manufacture, R & R paint in Long Beach, CA, claimed to have the exact
matching paint but it proved to be too blue and too metalic. My restorer has
a sample of some leaded paint (which is now illegal to use in California)
which is a very close match, but there have been some problems trying to scan
and match it precisely with a non-leaded code (we're still trying).
Additionally, it appears that the original 1960's BMC and ICI codes for this
color are useless to current paint manufacturers.
If anyone has had a Healey painted with the later version (less greenish)
Healey Blue for BJ8's that they believe is very close to the original color,
I'd be very appreciative if they could provide me with a current paint code.
As always, I am in your debt and appreciate all you have done to help with my
restoration project (5 years and counting).
Nelson Tharp (323) 650-6670 (Los Angeles, CA) nltharp@prodigy.net
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
Glacier Bkgrd.jpg]
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From RAWDAWGS at aol.com
From: Nelson Tharp
To: 'Kirk Kvam'
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 11:34:58 EST
Subject: Parts Quality
Scott McPherson
Lake Charles, LA.
BN4 Longbridge
BT7 rustbucket(for sale)
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From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: Nelson Tharp
To: 'Kirk Kvam'
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 09:11:29 -0800
Subject: Re: Jule Frames
Martin Jansen
R.R. #2
Rockwood,Ont.
Canada N0B 2K0
905-854-3555
Fax 905-854-3554
Kirk
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick Swain" <grain@auracom.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, November 10, 2002 4:55 AM
Subject: Jule Frames
> I've seen and heard references to Jule frames. Where can I get
information?
>
> Thanks
>
> Rick
>
> 59 BN4
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from inside on the bottom. Anyone know if this is repairable? If yes, how? Or
From: Nelson Tharp
To: 'Kirk Kvam'
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 12:33:00 -0500
Subject: OT: Compressor Tank Leaking
Bob Johnson
BJ
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From Bob Relick <rrelick at houston.rr.com>
From: Nelson Tharp
To: 'Kirk Kvam'
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 11:48:00 -0600
Subject: Healey Sighting
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From HealeyHundred at aol.com
From: Nelson Tharp
To: 'Kirk Kvam'
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 13:23:38 EST
Subject: Re: Close call.
Richard
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From "Brad Weldon 55BN1" <healey at bradw.com>
From: Nelson Tharp
To: 'Kirk Kvam'
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 10:25:37 -0800
Subject: Re: Healey Sighting
I've started one recently, with all the talk on this list regarding them.
- Dying to Remember
- Spiderman
- The Royal Tenebaums
- Father of the Bride
- State Fair
- Herbie the Love Bug
- Bullet
Spiderman and Father of the Bride are the only ones I remember seeing.
Anyone want to add to the list above?
Brad Weldon
55 BN1
http://www.healey.org/
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From HealeyHundred at aol.com
From: Nelson Tharp
To: 'Kirk Kvam'
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 13:33:36 EST
Subject: Re: Parts Quality
<< For any one part you usually have a choice
of used, new(repro: good) new( repro: bad) or occasionally NOS. I think
having a price/quality choice is great. The problem is knowing what you are
getting before you get it. I know Gary and Roger make some notations in
their
wonderful book, perhaps we can organize a more extensive reference list
based
on listers experiences. I know "quality " is a subjective thing, but for
most
of these parts (bumpers for instance) the variances are readily discernible.
That way one would know this part may be all right for a daily driver, but
wont past muster on a concourse judging etc >>
It makes sense that when you order the parts to ask the supplier what quality
the parts are. That you are restoring the car to a very high (or Concours)
standard and if they do not meet that standard please let me know and do not
send them. If they do not meet original specifications you will send them
back at their cost with no restocking fee. I have found that the suppliers
like Moss, David Nock, and others will let me know up front what the quality
is like. They know which pieces are good and which ones aren't. So, if I
get poor quality parts from a supplier it is "my fault". Why? Because I
didn't stipulate up front what I want and expect. Plus, It is "my fault" if
I do not send it back and let them know what I want, why I want it and what
was wrong with the part that I am sending back. Yes, it is "my fault". And
in this case I am using the Royal "My fault". The "MY" in this case refers
to each and everyone of us.
Roger Moment, Gary Anderson and others take the extra step to call and say, "
You know, this XXXXXX just isn't up to the quality that I need. It is too
short, thin, short lasting, wrong finish or whatever. It needs to be 20
thousands longer, a quarter inch thicker, last for at least 2 years, black
phosphate finish, etc." So now we get better springs, correct wiper blade
inserts (at least for a period of time), etc. If one person asks they may
say aah, no one cares. But if 100 of us ask, then there is a demand.
So, use the system. Tell them what you want up front. Then it becomes thier
cost on the return and no restocking fee. In the 1980's our parts came from
the junk yards. They are virtually empty of Healey parts now. The suppliers
are doing an excellent job with many of the parts that they now supply. Not
all of them, but many. With our help they will get better. Without our
help, we will get what we deserve.
It is not the suppliers responsibility to read our minds, it is our
responsibility to tell them what we want. So, please do not pass the buck,
stand up and be counted. It is easy to say XYZ stinks (no pun intended) and
complain to the choir.
Please, pitch in and help. If you don't like what you are getting and you do
nothing about it but complain, well...there are pleanty of good replacement
parts for Miata's <grin>
Richard
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From HealeyHundred at aol.com
From: Nelson Tharp
To: 'Kirk Kvam'
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 13:53:35 EST
Subject: New store...
Any comments?
Richard
Not a recommendation, no financial interest, just sharing information.
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
From: Nelson Tharp
To: 'Kirk Kvam'
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 11:03:16 -0800
Subject: Re: OT: Compressor Tank Leaking
Your tank is giving you the gentlest warning it can that it is time to
buy a new tank. Believe it. Tanks are available in all sizes.
-Roland
been there and done it
On Sun, 10 Nov 2002 12:33:00 -0500, "Roberta and Bob Johnson"
<bandrj@earthlink.net> wrote:
:: My air compressor has a 30 gallon tank that has sprung a leak. Rusted through
:: from inside on the bottom. Anyone know if this is repairable? If yes, how? Or
:: just replacable? Or just get a new Tankless compressor? It's as old as the
:: Healey.
::
:: Bob Johnson
:: BJ
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From "R.Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: Nelson Tharp
To: 'Kirk Kvam'
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 14:15:45 -0800
Subject: Re: New store...
They are nice, but in reality, they are a bit over priced. They are made from a
Dupont fabric, that he claims is proprietary (I doubt it) and the embroidery
work is not the greatest, but okay. A little light on the stitch count.
Bob Denton (the quality nut!!!!)
HealeyHundred@aol.com wrote:
> I recently purchased a bunch of Christmas cards on line with Healey content.
> Thought I would share the site with you. I think the cards are pretty nice.
> They also have Hats, Jackets, and lap throws/blankets that they can put
> Healey logos on. They are very proud of these soft goods and I haven't seen
> them. Even if they are the very best, I think they might be a bit expensive,
> at least for my pocket book. But I wanted to pass the information on...
> http://www.TheMGStore.com
>
> Any comments?
> Richard
> Not a recommendation, no financial interest, just sharing information.
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From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
From: Nelson Tharp
To: 'Kirk Kvam'
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 13:20:59 -0600
Subject: Re: Parts Quality
> If they do not meet original specifications you will send them
> back at their cost with no restocking fee. I have found that the suppliers
> like Moss, David Nock, and others will let me know up front what the quality
> is like. They know which pieces are good and which ones aren't. So, if I
> get poor quality parts from a supplier it is "my fault".
I don't agree! One of the popular suppliers will send you something as simple
as
urethane bushings for a BJ8 sawyer that don't fit. When you call, they say that
"yes, they knew they don't fit" but they sent them anyway. Then "all you need
to
do is get a knife and trim them, etc." Nope, they are coming back to you.
Part 2- They will send a different brand to make me happy. They arrive and they
don't fit either. "Yes, I know they don't fit but all you have to do is take
them to a machine shop to get drilled out" but they sent them anyway. They act
as if it was my error in refusing to accept a part that doesn't fit. No, it
wasn't a dated early Bugeye regulator--it was a simple set of bushings--and they
knew they didn't fit when they sent the parts out-twice. I even had to argue a
little to get my shipping charges back. To their credit, there wasn't a hassle
about crediting by credit card.
I learned a lesson about the supplier. He knows who he is and he'll never get
another of my hard earned dollars. You man enough to 'fess up on this list??
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 528 (New census numbers)
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From Bob Haskell <bhaskell at iquest.net>
From: Nelson Tharp
To: 'Kirk Kvam'
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 14:13:50 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey Sighting
There's a short list on the SOL healey web site...
http://localhost/www/healey/autobila/video.html
Bob Haskell
1960 Austin-Healey 3000 Mk I
1964 Austin Mini Cooper RHD
1980 MGB-LE
bhaskell@iquest.net
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From Grglmn at cs.com
From: Nelson Tharp
To: 'Kirk Kvam'
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 14:28:49 EST
Subject: Healey Sighting: Movie List
The Birds (Tipi Hedren (sp?) drives for quite while it at the beginning of
the movie I believe)
There are a few other 50's and 60's movies I can remember them in, can't
remember the names right now
Greg
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From "R.Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: Nelson Tharp
To: 'Kirk Kvam'
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 14:35:53 -0800
Subject: Re: Healey Sighting: Movie List
Grglmn@cs.com wrote:
> Add to the list:
>
> The Birds (Tipi Hedren (sp?) drives for quite while it at the beginning of
> the movie I believe)
>
> There are a few other 50's and 60's movies I can remember them in, can't
> remember the names right now
>
> Greg
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From skip <tfsbj7 at mindspring.com>
From: Nelson Tharp
To: 'Kirk Kvam'
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 16:17:09 -0500
Subject: Re: paint code and wire wheels
I know some people like Hendricks wire wheels...Personally, I
had fantastic service from British Wire Wheels
http://www.britishwirewheel.com/
They not only gave me excellent advice, I had them mount new
tires before sending them to me. The tires/wheels came very
very well balanced, and I've driven on the tires/wheels for
thousands of miles with no leaks, no wobble, and no problems.
The tires they recommended have provided excellent handling in
all kinds of roads and weather... So, I've been pleased with
their service.
-skip-
APPRAISE11@aol.com wrote:
>
> hi everybody,
> does anybody know where i can find the correct paint code for red used on a
> 1963
> bj7. where is the best place to purchase a new set of 72 spoke wheels for my
> car.
>
> thanks mitch
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From skip <tfsbj7 at mindspring.com>
From: Nelson Tharp
To: 'Kirk Kvam'
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 17:05:16 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey Sighting
I wish I knew how to get a copy of that video...
-skip-
Brad Weldon 55BN1 wrote:
>
> > Does anyone have an unofficial list of Healey movie appearances?
> > Bob
> > AN5
> > BJ8
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: Nelson Tharp
To: 'Kirk Kvam'
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 16:53:10 -0600
Subject: Re: Healey Sighting: Movie List
there is also "on the beach" with gregory peck, ava gardner and fred astaire
from the 50's as well as the second father of the bride movie.
Grglmn@cs.com wrote:
>
> Add to the list:
>
> The Birds (Tipi Hedren (sp?) drives for quite while it at the beginning of
> the movie I believe)
>
> There are a few other 50's and 60's movies I can remember them in, can't
> remember the names right now
>
> Greg
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From "Heard" <heard at datatrontech.net>
From: Nelson Tharp
To: 'Kirk Kvam'
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 18:00:30 -0500
Subject: Driveshaft questions
Continuing to rebuild various sub-assemblies on my BT7 I starting working on
the driveshaft and would appreciate some input about the following:
1. Should I take the u joints apart? and if so, after removing the
retaining clips, is there a trick to getting this apart? I basically want
to just clean it up, blast it, and paint it, but it seems like I should
break it down completely to do it right.
2. Why is there a grease fitting on the yoke collar? It seems this serves
no purpose, but I'm sure it must.
3. Should I have the unit balanced? If so, any suggestions as to where to
send it are appreciated. Keep in mind that I've never driven this car so I
can't speak as to any vibration problems. The PO says everything was OK the
last time he drove it, but it sure will be easier to have it checked now.
Is this a common problem on these cars?
Thanks,
Heard Saxon
60 BT7
Enterprise, FL
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From THOMAS FELTS <tfelts at prodigy.net>
From: Nelson Tharp
To: 'Kirk Kvam'
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 15:13:02 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Healey Sighting
tom
--- skip <tfsbj7@mindspring.com> wrote:
> Are people counting MTV Music Video's... there was a
> recent
> Janet Jackson video which prominently featured a red
> BJ8... She
> is on a country road with the Healey sexily
> approaching her, and
> later with her in the car... and then the video ends
> with the
> Healey too....
>
> I wish I knew how to get a copy of that video...
>
> -skip-
>
>
>
> Brad Weldon 55BN1 wrote:
> >
> > > Does anyone have an unofficial list of Healey
> movie appearances?
> > > Bob
> > > AN5
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From "Sid Bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
From: Nelson Tharp
To: 'Kirk Kvam'
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 16:23:26 -0700
Subject: air cleaner modification
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From Grglmn at cs.com
From: Nelson Tharp
To: 'Kirk Kvam'
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 18:19:55 EST
Subject: Healey Sightings movie list
The movie was listed as on cable this afternoon, so I was going to check it
out, movie ended up not being on, but with so many remebering it as an Aston,
I will consider myself corrected.
Greg
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: Nelson Tharp
To: 'Kirk Kvam'
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 16:50:20 -0700
Subject: Re: 100-4 rear spring packing plates
Bill Lawrence
Jonathan and Carole Quandt wrote:
> I recently replaced the rear spring on my BN-2 and noticed in the exploded
> views of the parts catalog that 2 different kinds of packing plates were
> fitted to the 100-4 series. One set is aluminum and beveled; the other set
> is fiber and flat. I assume the beveled plates were for the spiral bevel
> axle of BN-1.
>
> The question in my mind remains, what is the purpose of the BEVELED plates
> and the effect of both these and the fiber-packing piece on the rear
> suspension.
>
> Cheers
>
> Jonathan Quandt
> BN-2
> Northern California
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: Nelson Tharp
To: 'Kirk Kvam'
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 17:08:33 -0700
Subject: Re: OT: Compressor Tank Leaking
Bill Lawrence
Roberta and Bob Johnson wrote:
> My air compressor has a 30 gallon tank that has sprung a leak. Rusted through
> from inside on the bottom. Anyone know if this is repairable? If yes, how? Or
> just replacable? Or just get a new Tankless compressor? It's as old as the
> Healey.
>
> Bob Johnson
> BJ
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From Rmoment at aol.com
From: Nelson Tharp
To: 'Kirk Kvam'
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 19:09:34 EST
Subject: Re: 100-4 rear spring packing plates
>
> The difference in packing plates was due to the change in the differential
> type
> which occurred with the BN2 model. The beveled packing plates go with the
> BN1
> spiral bevel gear set.
>
The change occurred when the hypoid axle (which is what the BN2 has) was
first introduced on the BN1 in late 1954. Thus, the pack ing pieces only go
on some of the BN1s, not all of them. In fact, the change point where these
packing pieces were dropped is BN1 chassis 221536, which is also where the
hypoid axle was introduced.
According to Joyn Wheatley, their purpose was to better tilt/align the
differential input with the drive shaft.
Roger
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: Nelson Tharp
To: 'Kirk Kvam'
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 19:09:32 -0500
Subject: Re: Driveshaft questions
If you disassemble the u-joints, you should plan to replace them. They are
cheap and not worth trying to clean up and reuse.
Once you remove the retaining clips, you can use a large C-clamp to push the
bearing cups out. Use a socket that is small enough to fit through the hole
for the bearing cup in the yoke and press against it with the C-clamp to force
the opposite cup out of the yoke. You will need a larger socket as a
receiver on the side you are trying to press out so that the emerging bearing
cup has room to come out. Hard to describe in simple terms, but you can
probably figure it out from there.
The grease fitting is to lubricate the splines between the two halves of the
drive shaft.
If I knew where to get my driveshaft balanced, I would do it, too the next
time I remove it. Every little bit helps, but I can't say that I've noticed
any particular vibrations I could attribute to the shaft.
Good luck!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Heard
To: Healey List
Sent: Sunday, November 10, 2002 6:00 PM
Subject: Driveshaft questions
Hello Everyone,
Continuing to rebuild various sub-assemblies on my BT7 I starting working
on
the driveshaft and would appreciate some input about the following:
1. Should I take the u joints apart? and if so, after removing the
retaining clips, is there a trick to getting this apart? I basically want
to just clean it up, blast it, and paint it, but it seems like I should
break it down completely to do it right.
2. Why is there a grease fitting on the yoke collar? It seems this serves
no purpose, but I'm sure it must.
3. Should I have the unit balanced? If so, any suggestions as to where to
send it are appreciated. Keep in mind that I've never driven this car so I
can't speak as to any vibration problems. The PO says everything was OK
the
last time he drove it, but it sure will be easier to have it checked now.
Is this a common problem on these cars?
Thanks,
Heard Saxon
60 BT7
Enterprise, FL
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From "John Peak" <johnepeak at hotmail.com>
From: Nelson Tharp
To: 'Kirk Kvam'
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 16:23:16 -0800
Subject: Exhaust sealant, Parts
I am in the process of replacing the exhaust system on my BN7. I have
successfully removed the down pipes from the manifold (without breaking any
studs!). When installing the new pipes should I use a sealant on the
manifold to down pipe gasket? If so, what kind?
Also, I would like to replace some of my chrome items. Specifically,
fender spears, trunk hinges, wiper cones, and (later) door handles. Given
the recent discussion on parts quality from the various suppliers, is there
one source for these particular parts that is better than the others or are
they all basically the same? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Regards,
John
'59 BN7
'58 BN4
_________________________________________________________________
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: Nelson Tharp
To: 'Kirk Kvam'
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 20:06:07 -0600
Subject: Re: dash furflex
Thanks, Mark
: dash furflex
> I am installing the dash furflex, Archives are not clear on how to
proceed.
> How many of you use adhesive when installing the dash furflex. I have the
> type with spring steel.
> Any install suggestions are greatly appreciated. The dash is off the car.
> Thanks,
>
> Price
> 60 BT7
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: Nelson Tharp
To: 'Kirk Kvam'
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 18:05:08 -0700
Subject: Re: Driveshaft questions
The disassembly method outlined in the book recommends striking the side of the
yoke with a soft hammer until the cup walks out far enough to be removed. the
opposite cup is then forced out in the same manner. This method is low tech and
may be counter intuitive, but it will keep you from damaging the cup or yoke
through unwise use of hydraulic (or BFH) pressure.
Reassembly can be a little tricky because there will be numerous needle bearings
which will need to be replaced in the cups. (make sure you catch them all during
disassembly.) Some wheel bearing grease should be used to hold them in place
while you force the cups back into place. If you encounter a cup which doesn't
appear to seat properly You will likely find there is one or more of the needle
bearings out of place and laying on the bottom of the cup. This is especially
true if you are trying to use a hammer to drive the cups in. A vise or a c-clamp
is a gentler persuader. Be patient, take it a step at a time and don't try to
force it together.
The grease fitting on the yoke collar is used for lubricating the splined slip
joint on the end of the shaft. This joint is necessary to compensate for the
change in the length of the shaft caused by axle motion. Lack of lube can cause
it to bind and wear.
By all means have the assembly balanced, I wish I had. There is probably some
kind of a drivetrain shop in the phone book.
Good luck.
Bill Lawrence
Heard wrote:
> Hello Everyone,
>
> Continuing to rebuild various sub-assemblies on my BT7 I starting working on
> the driveshaft and would appreciate some input about the following:
>
> 1. Should I take the u joints apart? and if so, after removing the
> retaining clips, is there a trick to getting this apart? I basically want
> to just clean it up, blast it, and paint it, but it seems like I should
> break it down completely to do it right.
>
> 2. Why is there a grease fitting on the yoke collar? It seems this serves
> no purpose, but I'm sure it must.
>
> 3. Should I have the unit balanced? If so, any suggestions as to where to
> send it are appreciated. Keep in mind that I've never driven this car so I
> can't speak as to any vibration problems. The PO says everything was OK the
> last time he drove it, but it sure will be easier to have it checked now.
> Is this a common problem on these cars?
>
> Thanks,
> Heard Saxon
> 60 BT7
> Enterprise, FL
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From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
From: Nelson Tharp
To: 'Kirk Kvam'
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 19:11:53 -0600
Subject: Re: Parts Quality
> Open and honest dialogue is always preferable to "presumed"
> conversations. So, I agree with Richard. We need to say "up front" what our
> expectations are.
You need to explain that a part needs to fit? Jeez, no wonder all the crap I
get is
just that..........crap. I forgot to explain that I needed a part that fit--not
concours correct, not the correct color, not the correct material--all I wanted
was a
part that fit and did the job? My man sent me two sets that did not fit and he
knew it
up front and made no apology for it. Stay w/ me here: I paid shipping for the
first
set. I paid to ship the bad parts back. He charged me to send the second set.
See a
pattern here? That is the status quo and, apparently, he sleeps well at night.
> Some companies may have individual employees that are not fully
> atuned to the need for customer attention.
A cop out and an unreasonable excuse in my opinion. The company in question
has been
around for years. Blaming in on individual employees is the sad state of
current
affairs, i.e., it's not my fault or it's someone else's fault, etc. I dealt w/
the
owner and not a high school kid that was working his first day. He should
stand up
like a man and admit he tries his best to send out any part that someone is
silly
enough to pay for. He got me twice before I caught on. As I stated, they did
make it
good on my credit card but it took a couple of calls from me--not a single one
from
them. They understood the process of disputing a charge on a credit card. My
guess is
that they understood it really well. The alternative is to hide in the dark
and
bullshit the rest of you believers.
> I'll grant that some bad experiences have, and unfortunately will continue, to
> happen. But I'm certain that it is not company policy to create unhappy
>customers.
Sorry to disagree w/ the Pollyanna's out there. The policy is to make money.
Nothing
more and nothing less. I'm not the least bit impressed w/ advertising that
explains
they've been in the business for 30+ years. Bad experiences are made on
purpose and if
you don't believe it, you are a professional victim and the very person these
types of
companies have done well on by sending out inferior items that they know to be
wrong.
Sorry about the sentence structure but the dollar is way more important to a
lot of
these outfits than a happy customer or even a repeat customer.
> Dialogue with sales managers should help improve the education level of
> sales employees, and will continue to improve, rather than degrade our
>experiences
> with parts suppliers.
Holy cow! They gotta love opinions like that.
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 528 (New census numbers)
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: Nelson Tharp
To: 'Kirk Kvam'
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 18:16:46 -0700
Subject: Re: Exhaust sealant, Parts
Bill Lawrence
John Peak wrote:
> List,
>
> I am in the process of replacing the exhaust system on my BN7. I have
> successfully removed the down pipes from the manifold (without breaking any
> studs!). When installing the new pipes should I use a sealant on the
> manifold to down pipe gasket? If so, what kind?
>
> Also, I would like to replace some of my chrome items. Specifically,
> fender spears, trunk hinges, wiper cones, and (later) door handles. Given
> the recent discussion on parts quality from the various suppliers, is there
> one source for these particular parts that is better than the others or are
> they all basically the same? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Regards,
> John
> '59 BN7
> '58 BN4
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: Nelson Tharp
To: 'Kirk Kvam'
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 20:25:02 EST
Subject: Re: Driveshaft questions
Driveshaft balancing is common with big trucks (long driveshafts). The place
I use is actually a diesel engine supply house that makes custom driveshafts.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
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From John Slade <edalsj at igs.net>
From: Nelson Tharp
To: 'Kirk Kvam'
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 20:29:40 -0500
Subject: Re: Driveshaft questions
I wouldn't take the U-joints apart unless they feel rough or clunky, or
unless there is obvious slack in them. In either of those cases they
need to be overhauled. I have found them to be reasonably easy to clean
up and refinish without taking apart, consistent with the fact that
there is usually grease around them anyway.
Regarding balancing. I believe these units were balanced at the factory,
and installed in a balanced condition. Other than for damage, the usual
way for them to become unbalanced is if the two pieces were taken apart,
and then not reassembled in the same spline. You will find, after giving
the two pieces of the shaft a good clean up, that the factory carefully
marked both halves with an arrowhead, on the long piece about 1" behind
the weld at the front end of the outer tube, and on the short end about
1" forward of the threads and cap which screws onto them. These arrows
must be aligned when reassembling. This applies to drive shaft #1B7489.
I don't know if other shafts were used in later cars.
Regarding the grease nipple, somebody else has already provided the
correct answer...grease for the sliding splines.
Cheers
John Slade
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Nelson Tharp
To: 'Kirk Kvam'
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 17:31:01 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Exhaust sealant, Parts
The ONLY thing you should do is make sure you use a
new copper gasket between the manifold and the
downpipes. Buy one of the copper gaskets made
specifically for your car from a Healey Parts
supplier.
You DEFINITELY do not want to use any sort of sealant
as it will probably wear out over time and cause
exhaust leaks. You'll also want to use something
called anti-seize (permatex, amongst other companies,
makes this stuff) which will help preserve the copper
gasket over time and make removal of the downpipes in
the future a snap. Anti-sieze is great stuff - use it
on the gasket and use it on the bolts and nuts.
You'll never pull out an exhaust stud again if you use
this stuff. It'll smoke a bit upon first start up
after use, so don't worry about that....
The best thing to do regarding your bright work is to
have it rechromed. Most of the stuff that came from
the factory is of a better quality than what can be
bought these days from suppliers. Usually rechromers
will also make sure the quality of rechroming is
higher than what a factory part will give you anyway.
If you DO buy new brightwork, you should buy it from a
Healey specialist such as British Car Specialists or
Hemphills in the US or AH Spares / Cape-international
in the UK. In general these guys are on top of some
of these concerns and if you talk with them about what
you want, they'll give you exactly what you need.
British Car Specialists and Hemphills are pretty good
in this regard...
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- John Peak <johnepeak@hotmail.com> wrote:
> List,
>
> I am in the process of replacing the exhaust system
> on my BN7. I have
> successfully removed the down pipes from the
> manifold (without breaking any
> studs!). When installing the new pipes should I use
> a sealant on the
> manifold to down pipe gasket? If so, what kind?
>
> Also, I would like to replace some of my chrome
> items. Specifically,
> fender spears, trunk hinges, wiper cones, and
> (later) door handles. Given
> the recent discussion on parts quality from the
> various suppliers, is there
> one source for these particular parts that is better
> than the others or are
> they all basically the same? Any advice would be
> greatly appreciated.
>
> Regards,
> John
> '59 BN7
> '58 BN4
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From "R.Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: Nelson Tharp
To: 'Kirk Kvam'
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 20:41:00 -0800
Subject: Re: Parts Quality
Let's hear from some of you suppliers out there. Will any of you admit to
shipping stuff
you knew was crap and that the guy buying it was expecting better? It would be
very to
name names because you know who sold to me and Larry and others.
Let's get off of our collective pollyanna asses and stand up for ourselves. It
is no more
difficult to produce a badge with the mounting prongs in the right place than
it to put
the friggin' prongs off the mark by 1/2". I've seen it. It's being sold as an
"Exact
copy."
It does prove something, though. Anyone can sell something to a guy restoring a
British
car.
Open and honest dialog with these vendors is okay. Boycott is much better.
Bob Denton
Larry Dickstein wrote:
> skip wrote:
>
> > Open and honest dialogue is always preferable to "presumed"
> > conversations. So, I agree with Richard. We need to say "up front" what
>our
> > expectations are.
>
> You need to explain that a part needs to fit? Jeez, no wonder all the crap I
>get is
> just that..........crap. I forgot to explain that I needed a part that
>fit--not
> concours correct, not the correct color, not the correct material--all I
>wanted was a
> part that fit and did the job? My man sent me two sets that did not fit and
>he knew it
> up front and made no apology for it. Stay w/ me here: I paid shipping for
>the first
> set. I paid to ship the bad parts back. He charged me to send the second
>set. See a
> pattern here? That is the status quo and, apparently, he sleeps well at
>night.
>
> > Some companies may have individual employees that are not fully
> > atuned to the need for customer attention.
>
> A cop out and an unreasonable excuse in my opinion. The company in question
>has been
> around for years. Blaming in on individual employees is the sad state of
>current
> affairs, i.e., it's not my fault or it's someone else's fault, etc. I dealt
>w/ the
> owner and not a high school kid that was working his first day. He should
>stand up
> like a man and admit he tries his best to send out any part that someone is
>silly
> enough to pay for. He got me twice before I caught on. As I stated, they
>did make it
> good on my credit card but it took a couple of calls from me--not a single
>one from
> them. They understood the process of disputing a charge on a credit card.
>My guess is
> that they understood it really well. The alternative is to hide in the dark
>and
> bullshit the rest of you believers.
>
> > I'll grant that some bad experiences have, and unfortunately will continue,
>to
> > happen. But I'm certain that it is not company policy to create unhappy
>customers.
>
> Sorry to disagree w/ the Pollyanna's out there. The policy is to make money.
>Nothing
> more and nothing less. I'm not the least bit impressed w/ advertising that
>explains
> they've been in the business for 30+ years. Bad experiences are made on
>purpose and if
> you don't believe it, you are a professional victim and the very person these
>types of
> companies have done well on by sending out inferior items that they know to
>be wrong.
> Sorry about the sentence structure but the dollar is way more important to a
>lot of
> these outfits than a happy customer or even a repeat customer.
>
> > Dialogue with sales managers should help improve the education level of
> > sales employees, and will continue to improve, rather than degrade our
>experiences
> > with parts suppliers.
>
> Holy cow! They gotta love opinions like that.
>
> Larry Dickstein
> Lone Jack, MO
>
> Pop. 528 (New census numbers)
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From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
From: Nelson Tharp
To: 'Kirk Kvam'
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 20:50:07 -0500
Subject: RE: air cleaner modification
It's in the Tech Tips book published by the Carolina Area
Healey Club.
The suggestion was to drill a hole through each of the
studs on the air cleaner and replace the nut and washer with
a spring and a hitch pin.
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Sid Bronson
Sent: Sunday, November 10, 2002 6:23 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: air cleaner modification
Somewhere I saw an explanation or tech tip on modifing MK 111 air cleaners
for
easer removal and installation. Could't find anything in the archives. Any
ideas where I can find this?
Sid 65 BJ8
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Nelson Tharp
To: 'Kirk Kvam'
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 18:00:26 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Roger Los? RE: New store...
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- HealeyHundred@aol.com wrote:
> I recently purchased a bunch of Christmas cards on
> line with Healey content.
> Thought I would share the site with you. I think
> the cards are pretty nice.
> They also have Hats, Jackets, and lap
> throws/blankets that they can put
> Healey logos on. They are very proud of these soft
> goods and I haven't seen
> them. Even if they are the very best, I think they
> might be a bit expensive,
> at least for my pocket book. But I wanted to pass
> the information on...
> http://www.TheMGStore.com
>
> Any comments?
> Richard
> Not a recommendation, no financial interest, just
> sharing information.
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Nelson Tharp
To: 'Kirk Kvam'
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 18:16:34 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Parts Quality
Now I'd say the majority of owners have a desire to
get their cars to a high level condition, near
concourse if not concourse. This means the old crap
that guys like Moss used to sell no one really wants
anymore - and owners now are really willing to pay for
proper quality rather than whatever is cheapest and
works well.
I know, I've gone through so many cheap parts, I know
in the long run it is cheaper to pay for quality up
front rather than what's cheapest on the list.....
I have 4 "new" & cheap heater control valves on the
shelf as proof - all of them broke after about 3
months of use. I would pay twice as much for a valve
that I know would last.... Now if only suppliers like
Moss and SC Parts would work harder to understand
this...
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Larry Dickstein <bugide@solve.net> wrote:
> skip wrote:
>
> > Open and honest dialogue is always preferable to
> "presumed"
> > conversations. So, I agree with Richard. We
> need to say "up front" what our
> > expectations are.
>
> You need to explain that a part needs to fit? Jeez,
> no wonder all the crap I get is
> just that..........crap. I forgot to explain that I
> needed a part that fit--not
> concours correct, not the correct color, not the
> correct material--all I wanted was a
> part that fit and did the job? My man sent me two
> sets that did not fit and he knew it
> up front and made no apology for it. Stay w/ me
> here: I paid shipping for the first
> set. I paid to ship the bad parts back. He charged
> me to send the second set. See a
> pattern here? That is the status quo and,
> apparently, he sleeps well at night.
>
>
> > Some companies may have individual employees that
> are not fully
> > atuned to the need for customer attention.
>
> A cop out and an unreasonable excuse in my opinion.
> The company in question has been
> around for years. Blaming in on individual
> employees is the sad state of current
> affairs, i.e., it's not my fault or it's someone
> else's fault, etc. I dealt w/ the
> owner and not a high school kid that was working his
> first day. He should stand up
> like a man and admit he tries his best to send out
> any part that someone is silly
> enough to pay for. He got me twice before I caught
> on. As I stated, they did make it
> good on my credit card but it took a couple of calls
> from me--not a single one from
> them. They understood the process of disputing a
> charge on a credit card. My guess is
> that they understood it really well. The
> alternative is to hide in the dark and
> bullshit the rest of you believers.
>
> > I'll grant that some bad experiences have, and
> unfortunately will continue, to
> > happen. But I'm certain that it is not company
> policy to create unhappy customers.
>
> Sorry to disagree w/ the Pollyanna's out there. The
> policy is to make money. Nothing
> more and nothing less. I'm not the least bit
> impressed w/ advertising that explains
> they've been in the business for 30+ years. Bad
> experiences are made on purpose and if
> you don't believe it, you are a professional victim
> and the very person these types of
> companies have done well on by sending out inferior
> items that they know to be wrong.
> Sorry about the sentence structure but the dollar is
> way more important to a lot of
> these outfits than a happy customer or even a repeat
> customer.
>
> > Dialogue with sales managers should help improve
> the education level of
> > sales employees, and will continue to improve,
> rather than degrade our experiences
> > with parts suppliers.
>
> Holy cow! They gotta love opinions like that.
>
>
> Larry Dickstein
> Lone Jack, MO
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From "Mike Wedeln" <rotary at iname.com>
From: Nelson Tharp
To: 'Kirk Kvam'
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 21:21:23 -0500
Subject: How tough is it to rebuild a pair of carburators?
How tough is it to rebuild a pair of carburators? I have never done this
before and am thinking about doing it this winter.
Question is am I nuts for thinking about doing this or should I send them out
to be done?
Mike
1959 early BT7 with manual choke carbs
--
__________________________________________________________
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From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
From: Nelson Tharp
To: 'Kirk Kvam'
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 20:34:56 -0600
Subject: Re: Parts Quality
> I think the problem here relates to a shift in
> ownership of these old cars. 20 years ago, Healey
> owners wanted cheap stuff to keep their cars running,
> nothing more nothing less. There was little choice
> out there for quality and we all survived on Beck
> Arnley and JC Whitney stuff.
It's better to con a customer now than it was 20 years ago?
>
> Now I'd say the majority of owners have a desire to
> get their cars to a high level condition, near
> concourse if not concourse. This means the old crap
> that guys like Moss used to sell no one really wants
> anymore -
I've had the best luck w/ Moss Motors. No, not all of the items are of
concours
quality but they have, w/out fail, fit and have functioned. No one in
their organization lied to me, tried to con me, nor purposely sent me a
part that they knew would not fit. I cannot say that about all
suppliers, especially a highly revered one that hang around this list.
> I know, I've gone through so many cheap parts, I know
> in the long run it is cheaper to pay for quality up
> front rather than what's cheapest on the list.....
That is assuming that the supplier is honest to begins with and intends
to help you out by supplying a quality part. The above statement is
only as true as the honesty of the supplier. You think by paying more
you stand a better chance of a quality part? Get in the game, sir. You
are the victim that these folks thrive on. Now you're willing to pay
more for an inferior part--they love it!
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 528 (New census numbers)
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From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
From: Nelson Tharp
To: 'Kirk Kvam'
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 21:50:35 -0500
Subject: rubber mouldings for BJ8 convertible top
Carroll Phillips
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Nelson Tharp
To: 'Kirk Kvam'
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 19:12:34 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Parts Quality
Sir, where exactly do you get off attacking me when
all I did was post some basic observations I've had
with parts suppliers over the years? That was
definitely uncalled for...
Listen, I've owned enough old cars to know that new
Healey parts tend to be some of the cheapest parts out
there. Try getting a tailight for a '70 mustang and
you'll be lucky if you get a crappy mexican made part
for less than $200.
Now, Moss is selling a new heater control valve at
$31.95. I can guarantee you that at that price, Moss
is sourcing the lowest bidder and could care less
about whether the valve will keep working after three
months or not. I know, two of the four valves on my
shelf are from Moss. The other two are from SC Parts
in the UK which I later figured out is Moss's main
supplier. I stopped exchanging them at Moss (and SC
Parts) because I didn't want to go through the hassle
of installing yet another valve that I would have to
pull out in a few months - free replacements didn't
solve my problem. Buying from a decent UK supplier
did... someone who specializes only in Healey Parts...
And as far as your experience with Moss, I'm glad your
experience has been as good as it's been. I on the
other hand have a paper thin Taiwanese shite bumper on
my BJ8 that I bought from Moss a few years ago that I
can twist and bend with my bare hand if I want. They
NEVER told me it was a crap bumper eventhough they
knew it was no good - so that means Moss is just as
guilty about what you are complaining about as anyone
else.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Larry Dickstein <bugide@solve.net> wrote:
> Blue One Hundred wrote:
>
> > I think the problem here relates to a shift in
> > ownership of these old cars. 20 years ago, Healey
> > owners wanted cheap stuff to keep their cars
> running,
> > nothing more nothing less. There was little
> choice
> > out there for quality and we all survived on Beck
> > Arnley and JC Whitney stuff.
>
> It's better to con a customer now than it was 20
> years ago?
>
> >
> > Now I'd say the majority of owners have a desire
> to
> > get their cars to a high level condition, near
> > concourse if not concourse. This means the old
> crap
> > that guys like Moss used to sell no one really
> wants
> > anymore -
>
> I've had the best luck w/ Moss Motors. No, not all
> of the items are of
> concours
> quality but they have, w/out fail, fit and have
> functioned. No one in
> their organization lied to me, tried to con me, nor
> purposely sent me a
> part that they knew would not fit. I cannot say
> that about all
> suppliers, especially a highly revered one that hang
> around this list.
>
> > I know, I've gone through so many cheap parts, I
> know
> > in the long run it is cheaper to pay for quality
> up
> > front rather than what's cheapest on the list.....
>
> That is assuming that the supplier is honest to
> begins with and intends
> to help you out by supplying a quality part. The
> above statement is
> only as true as the honesty of the supplier. You
> think by paying more
> you stand a better chance of a quality part? Get in
> the game, sir. You
> are the victim that these folks thrive on. Now
> you're willing to pay
> more for an inferior part--they love it!
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From Bill Rister <brister at hal-pc.org>
From: Nelson Tharp
To: 'Kirk Kvam'
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 21:37:25 -0800
Subject: Re: Parts Quality
Go back with me to the early 70's ...I might find a make-do part at my
local auto parts house, I may find a part at the local BMC parts counter
..but not always. I have purchased parts from J.C. Whitney - they
weren't sold as "original". They were sold as "fits". I've had brake
shoes made in Spain, cylinder kits made in India, and other parts made
all over the world. They were by no means original but they did the
job. In 1974 I couldn't locate a gas tank to replace the pin-hole
covered original. I had to have a sheet metal shop build me a make-do tank.
In more recent years I've been privileged to purchase parts from various
suppliers around the country. Apparently some were made in China vs
England. But they worked. No, they didn't fit the "concours" bill
but they kept me going. Likewise there are now rebuilders,
refinishers, repair, etc around the country who can keep our beloved
vehicles rolling.
I have purchased items from across the country which gave me a problem
when I tried to install it. A free phone call always got the right part
or the right adaptor on the way to me ...no 15% restocking charge.
Let's face, be honest with them and they'll bend over backwards to keep
your business.
I am not trying for concours ..I've even modified to my liking. If it
is so important that the purchased part be concours, try obtaining it
from one of the companies overseas which have taken over parts
inventories or have even purchased original dies and are now making new
parts, panels, etc.
Off my soapbox.
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 10:44:40 -0500
Subject: Re: Parts Quality - spelling
> Just so nobody forgets, there is no 'E' in concours.
>
> Back me up here Gary.
>
> CB
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From Grglmn at cs.com
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 22:48:07 EST
Subject: How tough to rebuild carbs
For the rest you can take them off and rebuild on your basement workbench or
even your coffee table if you have an understanding spouse and something to
cover the table with (pour the gas out of the floats, etc. first)
1. Pay close attention when you disassemble, sometimes it is hard to see all
the intracies of assembly from the diagrams, esp on small parts like the
seals on the jets.
2. Take one apart at a time, you can use the other for reference if needed.
3. Make sure everything moves smoothly when you get done, read the manual
for centering the jets and make sure the pistons move up and down freely
after that task has been done, if you center the jets with the mixture set at
its leanest, jets all the way up into the carb body, you should have no
problem when you are running at normal mixture.
4. make sure there are no leaks in the carb floats
5. Don't know others opinions, but I have used grose jets (to replace the
fuel flow cut off needles in the float chambers. on the last three british
cars I wowned and have never had a problem with the carbs overflowing, they
are inexpesive the last time I checked.
6. I haven't tried it but have heard you can make the mechanism smoother
with polishing compond or jewelers rouge on surfaces that have some inherent
friction (mixture jets)
7. When you put them back on the car first turn it on let the pump click,
make sure nothing leaks before you "fire up the car"
8. Common problem is choke not fully releasing from the mixture richening
thing it does (by pulling down the jets) check this too, after checking choke
and throttle turn the car on again make sure nothing leaks.
9. Don't forget the dashpot oil, and remember pouring something thin in the
dashpots, like WD40, will not improve throttle response, don't ask me how I
know, just take my word.
Just some tips, follow a good workshop manual on all of it others may have
better ideas, rebuilding the carbs is a job I consider low stress and not too
hard, maybe partly because I can (once they are removed) do it without
bending over into the car or crawling under it. The first one may take a
short afternoon, the second with experience, half the time of the first.
Happy Healying
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 22:54:00 EST
Subject: Re: Fw: Parts Quality - spelling
<<
> Just so nobody forgets, there is no 'E' in concours. >>
And while on corrections...
How 'bout the phrase "could care less."
That is COULDN'T care less. As in, It's the least concern...
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From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 15:00:01 +1100
Subject: RE: Parts Quality - spelling
One of my favourite pedantry subjects. A concourse is something you can walk or
parade along or even a group of people and a concours is an abbreviation of the
French Concour de Elegance.
However English is a changing language while the French stick steadfastly at
not changing theirs.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
-----Original Message-----
From: Charley Braum [mailto:cbaustin@sgi.net]
Sent: Monday, November 11, 2002 2:45 AM
To: Healey-List
Subject: Fw: Parts Quality - spelling
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 10, 2002 10:44 AM
Subject: Re: Parts Quality - spelling
> Just so nobody forgets, there is no 'E' in concours.
>
> Back me up here Gary.
>
> CB
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From Grglmn at cs.com
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 23:08:42 EST
Subject: Parts Quality
I have dealt with probably a dozen different suppliers, here and abroad,
there was only one time I would say I ran across someone who may have been
unethical or had absolutely no interest in what happened after I paid for the
part, and that was a place in Rhode Island, I don't do business with them
anymore, don't even know if they are around.
The Healey parts and supply industry has made nearly every part available
that I need to work on my nearly fifty year old low production foreign car.
I have had very few instances where I have ever had to return a part, with
the exception noted above this has never been a problem.
I can get these parts next day air, I have to wait longer than that when a
part is not in stock for my late model Nissan.
There are certainly some things that could be higher quality, but I for one
am happy and somewhat amazed and bemused that I can get the parts at all.
Twenty years ago the list of available stuff was much shorter and half the
time you ordered something was out of stock.
Could it be better, sure, but bottom line we never had it so good.
I know these people are out there to make a living off of me, but most doing
it (suppliers, don't know about manufacturers) have some interest and
knowledge of what they do...
....In my humble opinion
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
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From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 22:50:42 -0600
Subject: Fw: Parts Quality - spelling
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
> To: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
> Sent: Sunday, November 10, 2002 10:44 AM
> Subject: Re: Parts Quality - spelling
>
>
> > Just so nobody forgets, there is no 'E' in concours.
> >
> > Back me up here Gary.
> >
> > CB
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From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 21:17:48 -0800
Subject: Re: Healey Sighting Janet Jackson....
http://idirector.media.ibeam.com/netshow/virg001/Janet_Jackson/Video/someone
_to_call_my_lover_album_300.asx
----- Original Message -----
From: "skip" <tfsbj7@mindspring.com>
To: "Brad Weldon 55BN1" <healey@bradw.com>
Cc: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, November 10, 2002 2:05 PM
Subject: Re: Healey Sighting
> Are people counting MTV Music Video's... there was a recent
> Janet Jackson video which prominently featured a red BJ8... She
> is on a country road with the Healey sexily approaching her, and
> later with her in the car... and then the video ends with the
> Healey too....
>
> I wish I knew how to get a copy of that video...
>
> -skip-
>
>
>
> Brad Weldon 55BN1 wrote:
> >
> > > Does anyone have an unofficial list of Healey movie appearances?
> > > Bob
> > > AN5
> > > BJ8
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From "David Masucci" <david_m at radiantsoundworks.com>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 00:36:56 -0500
Subject: BJ8 Erratic Tach
A NUMBER of months ago, I sent out a notice to the list about my rebuild for
the BJ8 Electronic tach. Since I sent out that notice, I ended up sick with
a pinched nerve. Then my girlfriend and I...we had our little house on the
market with a bad septic system. It made it hard to sell, but then suddenly
out of the blue we got a buyer, and the house we wanted was still available.
So we moved. Then I freakin' lost my job! So...it's been a little crazy for
the last few months. I finally decided that I could get this done, and then
my
scanner died!!!!
Anyway.............I finally got it done. If you remember I rebuilt the
electronics of my tach with modern parts. It's been working perfectly now
all this time....rock solid! The scans of my hand drawings aren't so hot, as
I had to use my digital camera. But they are readable. So I wrote up some
instructions, with a schematic and a parts list. The list includes generic
part numbers, and the part numbers of the place that I ordered the parts. I
also have hand drawings of a section of the circuit board where the
transistors are mounted. I hope this thing is clear, and helpful. I will be
happy to answer questions or clarify anything that I wasn't clear on. I take
no responsibility for your results however. You're on your own.
The document is in the form of a PDF file. But it came out kinda big....it's
about 500K. You can download it from my site...the link is below. If that
doesn't work for you, I can snail mail a printout of this. Let me know if
you need that. Some people did at the time, but please let me know again.
Anyway...here it is. Good luck, and I'm sorry for the delay.
Click on the link below. Go to the BOTTOM of the page, and right click on
the UPDATE to save the
document.
http://www.radiantsoundworks.com/AustinHealey.html
Cheers,
Dave Masucci
BJ8
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 01:27:01 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: How tough is it to rebuild a pair of carburators?
Rebuilding Carburators is very easy. The key thing
you may need a shop to do is to ream and/or ream and
bush the main throttle shaft holes.... have a shop do
this for you. Do not rebuild the carbs without doing
this step as a leaky throttle shaft is the most common
cause of unsteady idle speed.
The rest of the rebuilding procedure can be done by
any average mechanic and is basically a simple
dissassembly and parts replacement procedure.
Good Luck,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Mike Wedeln <rotary@iname.com> wrote:
> Guys,
>
> How tough is it to rebuild a pair of
> carburators? I have never done this before and am
> thinking about doing it this winter.
>
> Question is am I nuts for thinking about doing
> this or should I send them out to be done?
>
> Mike
> 1959 early BT7 with manual choke carbs
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From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 20:06:50 +1000
Subject: Re: Healey Sighting: Movie List
She is famously quoted as saying that Melbourne was the ideal place for a
film about the end of the world. Obviously not impressed with Down-under.
Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
|
| There are a few other 50's and 60's movies I can remember them in, can't
| remember the names right now
|
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From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 05:17:14 -0600
Subject: Parts Quality
Let me relate a little story to you:
I am what might be called a "hairless" type of guy. I don't have a hairy chest
and I only have a few stray whiskers on my chin. For years I was unable to
grow a mustache. I always wanted a mustache, however, and one year when my
first wife and I were invited to a party I was at May Company in California and
found a FALSE mustache.
Well I bought it. It was about $7.00. It came with the little bottle of glue.
We went to the party and I was adorned with the most beautiful mustache you
could imagine. It REALLY looked nice. I was a cross between Tom Selleck and
Clark Gable. (IN MY OWN MIND).
About half way through the party people started looking at me kinda funny.
I had to discharge some of the Michelob I had been soaking up so I went to the
bath room. As I was standing there I glanced in the mirror and saw that the
mustache had slipped on one side and was drooping down.
I held on to the immediate instrument of business with one hand and with the
other I yanked off the phony mustache and dropped it in the commode. When I
flushed, that was the end of the phony mustache.
No one said a word to me about it when I returned to the party.
What is the moral of this story? Phony parts are never as good as original,
but if they make you happy, even for a short period of time, they are usually
worth it.
Don
BN7
"Life is not measured by the breaths we take but by the things that take our
breath away"
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From "Ph.J.Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin at tiscali.nl>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 14:13:40 +0100
Subject: Re: Parts Quality - spelling
allow me to correct your French: it is Concours d' Elegance, not Concour de
Elegance.
(In the good old days in which I grew up we were tought four languages at
secundary school: Dutch, English, French and German. Has been a great help
to me all my life.Now realise I should have learned a fifth one: American.
Sometimes I have real problems trying to follow the discussions on this
marvellous site.)
Jack Aeckerlin
Capelle a/d Yssel, The Netherlands
BJ8 29432
----- Original Message -----
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: "'Charley Braum'" <cbaustin@sgi.net>; "Healey-List"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, November 11, 2002 5:00 AM
Subject: RE: Parts Quality - spelling
> G'day
>
> One of my favourite pedantry subjects. A concourse is something you can
walk or parade along or even a group of people and a concours is an
abbreviation of the French Concour de Elegance.
>
> However English is a changing language while the French stick steadfastly
at not changing theirs.
>
> Regards
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Sydney, Australia
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Charley Braum [mailto:cbaustin@sgi.net]
> Sent: Monday, November 11, 2002 2:45 AM
> To: Healey-List
> Subject: Fw: Parts Quality - spelling
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
> To: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
> Sent: Sunday, November 10, 2002 10:44 AM
> Subject: Re: Parts Quality - spelling
>
>
> > Just so nobody forgets, there is no 'E' in concours.
> >
> > Back me up here Gary.
> >
> > CB
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 08:30:57 EST
Subject: Re: Parts Quality - spelling
> allow me to correct your French: it is Concours d' Elegance, not Concour
But--as I remember my college French--pronounced "concour", as the final
consonent sound is dropped, unless followed by an "e"--n'est ce pas?
Tojours--Michael
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From Eric Wells <eric at associatedprinting.biz>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 08:47:55 -0800
Subject: Re: Close call.
Glad to hear that you & yours are safe, James
Eric Wells
67 BJ8 in WNC
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From Eric Wells <eric at associatedprinting.biz>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 08:54:28 -0800
Subject: Re: Healey Sighting
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 00:57:32 +1100
Subject: Re: Parts Quality - spelling
Secundary school? Mate - even I got tought a Tertiary education!!
Hence - I inherently knew what ('my learned friend') Patrick meant.
Nonetheless - I'll "take the piss out of Patrick" at our club meeting on
Wednesday evening for his mistake....
: )
On second thoughts - having just run that phrase through 36 different phrase
spelling checkers in all the major languages (including Lone_jackese :) )
- Patrick can just "remove (take, evacuate) his own urine (piss, liquid
refuse), on his own (by himself, with no assistance)........."
And we'll just agree that the 'u' is sometimes an 'o' = uk?
Best regards
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ph.J.Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>
To: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
Sent: Tuesday, November 12, 2002 12:13 AM
Subject: Re: Parts Quality - spelling
> Patrick,
.............tought four languages at secundary school:>
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 21:04:52 -0500
Subject: Re: Parts Quality - spelling - the end?
CB
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From "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios at snet.net>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 09:15:55 -0800
Subject: Carbs
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 21:23:50 -0500
Subject: Re: Parts Quality - spelling - rocks
CB
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From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 08:28:36 -0600
Subject: Re: Parts Quality
> Sir, where exactly do you get off attacking me when
> all I did was post some basic observations I've had
> with parts suppliers over the years? That was
> definitely uncalled for...
My, aren't some of us a little defensive. Feel free to stick up for
anyone you care to.
Is it always an attack you you when someone disagrees w/ you?
You can buy parts wherever you want--it makes no difference to me.
Since you've bought all of these Healey part for so many years, you
might have missed the fact that there are very few manufacturers of
parts. There are, however, many other folks selling the same stuff.
Springs, for instance, come to mind. I think that there is just one
manufacturer for those things. How many manufacturers do you think the
"industry" will support? It's probably the same for heater valves. You
finally got a good one.
Patronize the crooks if you want to. Be unhappy w/ me if you want to.
Your diatribe, which started out on me, was really aimed at Moss.
Bumpers? Find any other distributor that sells anything other than what
you described. Most folks that have been around Healeys much simply
find OEM bumpers and get them straightened and rechromed. A sturdy
solid bumper that looks rights, feels right, and, generally, costs less
than a reproductions.
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 528 (New census numbers)
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From "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble at intel.com>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 09:29:21 -0500
Subject: restorations books
Thanks,
Fred
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From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 08:38:03 -0600
Subject: Re: Parts Quality
> Hey guys:
> This thread is getting a little old and a little too serious when we start
>YIPPING at each other.
You're right, of course. Thank you!
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 528 (New census numbers)
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From dcorning at comcast.net
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 08:37:04 -0600
Subject: Re: Healey Sighting
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eric Wells" <eric@associatedprinting.biz>
To: "Healeys/autox.team" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, November 11, 2002 10:54 AM
Subject: Re: Healey Sighting
> > I've started one recently, with all the talk on this list regarding
them.
> >
> > - Dying to Remember
> > - Spiderman
> > - The Royal Tenebaums
> > - Father of the Bride
> > - State Fair
> > - Herbie the Love Bug
> > - Bullet
> >
> > Spiderman and Father of the Bride are the only ones I remember seeing.
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From "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 10:09:17 -0600
Subject: Re: restorations books
"Scheuble, Fred" wrote:
> Hi All,
> Now that I've decided to a full restoration on my BN7, I would like
> to know what are "must have restoration books" for a correct in every detail
> restoration, (plugs are welcome) and where may I purchase, for example Gary
> and Rodgers book among others, short of Moss.
>
> Thanks,
> Fred
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From "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 10:10:44 -0600
Subject: Re: Healey Sighting
dcorning@comcast.net wrote:
> It's always fun to see a Healey in a movie or on TV but my favorite Healey
> sighting is in my garage!
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Eric Wells" <eric@associatedprinting.biz>
> To: "Healeys/autox.team" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, November 11, 2002 10:54 AM
> Subject: Re: Healey Sighting
>
> > > I've started one recently, with all the talk on this list regarding
> them.
> > >
> > > - Dying to Remember
> > > - Spiderman
> > > - The Royal Tenebaums
> > > - Father of the Bride
> > > - State Fair
> > > - Herbie the Love Bug
> > > - Bullet
> > >
> > > Spiderman and Father of the Bride are the only ones I remember seeing.
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From Rmoment at aol.com
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 10:31:09 EST
Subject: Re: restorations books
> Now that I've decided to a full restoration on my BN7, I would like
> to know what are "must have restoration books" for a correct in every
> detail
> restoration, (plugs are welcome) and where may I purchase, for example Gary
> and Rodgers book among others, short of Moss.
>
Lest expectations not be met, there is NO book that is correct in every
detail of restoration. In fact, among all the books out there, collectively
(and even including the parts books), you won't find the answer on every
detail question yo might have. Some books are better than others in 1) the
amount of information included or 2) having fewer errors, and I like to think
that Gary's and my book is among these, but if you want a completely accurate
restoration you'll still have to do a lot of leg work for gathering info and
build up your own reference library.
The concours Guidelines, sold by the Austin-Healey Concours Committee, also
has a lot of good stuff, and it is being updated again this fall so the 2003
issue, which should be available by Feb., will contain not only more new
tidbits but also some corrections to past versions. You can obtain a copy
from Marion Brantley [MBran89793@aol.com]. Price is $25, but I strongly
suggest you contact him now and wait 'till the new issue comes out.
Anders' book, The Original Austin-Healey, is now available in soft cover, but
has a number of wrong items shown in photos of the cars he chose to use.
Still, the text is good and many of the photos of original cars have good
stuff in them. You just have to use other books to let you know what to
ignore in Anders' photos and what to pay attention to.
There just is no "easy and complete" answer -- no "one-stop-shopping". But
the availability of info is far better than it used to be.
Roger
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From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: "Ph.J.Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>; "Quinn, Patrick"
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 09:38:51 -0600
Subject: Re: Parts Quality - spelling
> Shit eh mates!!??
>
> Secundary school? Mate - even I got tought a Tertiary education!!
>
> Hence - I inherently knew what ('my learned friend') Patrick meant.
>
> Nonetheless - I'll "take the piss out of Patrick" at our club meeting on
> Wednesday evening for his mistake....
>
> : )
>
> On second thoughts - having just run that phrase through 36 different
phrase
> spelling checkers in all the major languages (including Lone_jackese :) )
> - Patrick can just "remove (take, evacuate) his own urine (piss, liquid
> refuse), on his own (by himself, with no assistance)........."
>
> And we'll just agree that the 'u' is sometimes an 'o' = uk?
>
> Best regards
> Chris
> ______________________________________
>
> Chris Dimmock
> Sydney Australia
>
> http://www.myaustinhealey.com
> ______________________________________
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ph.J.Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>
> To: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
> Sent: Tuesday, November 12, 2002 12:13 AM
> Subject: Re: Parts Quality - spelling
>
>
> > Patrick,
> .............tought four languages at secundary school:>
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From "Charlie & Adriane" <chadstew at texas.net>
From: "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: "Ph.J.Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>; "Quinn, Patrick"
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 09:52:11 -0600
Subject: A Perfect Sunday
Sunday the weather was perfect, clear skies and in the '70's. After the
drivers meeting we were car #12 out of about 20 cars. We started out doing
really well, but the more we got to know each other talking highs and lows of
our lives since HS, the less we were paying attention to what the hell we were
suppose to be doing. We were missing turns, clues, you name it. I think we
drove most roads twice backtracking.
At the end of the rallye, we were the last car to make the dinner/awards
ceremony. At the end, were were voted nicest looking couple with the best
looking car! Although there was no such trophy, but it was nice of them to
say it.
The Healey performed flawlessly all day... the '60 MGA and '70 MGB that made
the rallye on Sunday had machanical problems, so they had their daily drivers
for the Sunday drive. Besides my Healey, only a new mini and a 12 cylinder
Jag carried the British flag amongst many Miatas and a couple of Porshe's.
To top off my perfect Sunday, I was driving Patty to her car and a woman in a
early big Healey red/oew pulls out of a restaurant parking lot in front of us,
honking horns and waving to each other, I had to think of the odds of that!
Other than car shows, I may have seen only a couple of Healeys in the past
year on Austin roads.
Sorry for the long winded report, but I sure wish I could live that day
again,
Charlie Stewart
'53 BN1 Red
Georgetown, TX
chadstew@texas.net
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From "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: "Ph.J.Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>; "Quinn, Patrick"
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 10:55:30 -0600
Subject: Re: Parts Quality
Don Yarber wrote:
> Hey guys:
> This thread is getting a little old and a little too serious when we start
>YIPPING at each other.
>
> Let me relate a little story to you:
> I am what might be called a "hairless" type of guy. I don't have a hairy
>chest and I only have a few stray whiskers on my chin. For years I was unable
>to grow a mustache. I always wanted a mustache, however, and one year when my
>first wife and I were invited to a party I was at May Company in California
>and found a FALSE mustache.
>
> Well I bought it. It was about $7.00. It came with the little bottle of
>glue. We went to the party and I was adorned with the most beautiful mustache
>you could imagine. It REALLY looked nice. I was a cross between Tom Selleck
>and Clark Gable. (IN MY OWN MIND).
>
> About half way through the party people started looking at me kinda funny.
>
> I had to discharge some of the Michelob I had been soaking up so I went to
>the bath room. As I was standing there I glanced in the mirror and saw that
>the mustache had slipped on one side and was drooping down.
>
> I held on to the immediate instrument of business with one hand and with the
>other I yanked off the phony mustache and dropped it in the commode. When I
>flushed, that was the end of the phony mustache.
>
> No one said a word to me about it when I returned to the party.
>
> What is the moral of this story? Phony parts are never as good as original,
>but if they make you happy, even for a short period of time, they are usually
>worth it.
>
> Don
> BN7
> "Life is not measured by the breaths we take but by the things that take our
>breath away"
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From rjmc46 at att.net
From: "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: "Ph.J.Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>; "Quinn, Patrick"
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 16:01:25 +0000
Subject: Differential gear carrier
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: "Ph.J.Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>; "Quinn, Patrick"
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 11:20:37 EST
Subject: Re: Phase 2 BJ8 Rear Subframe
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
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From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: "Ph.J.Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>; "Quinn, Patrick"
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 10:56:56 -0600
Subject: Re: Phase 2 BJ8 Rear Subframe
"Life is not measured by the breaths we take but by the things that take our
breath away"
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From MBran89793 at aol.com
From: "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: "Ph.J.Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>; "Quinn, Patrick"
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 12:11:19 EST
Subject: Re: restorations books
> . You can obtain a copy
> from Marion Brantley [MBran89793@aol.com].
Please note that the correct person to contact for a copy of the Concours
Standards for either the Big Healeys or Sprites is George Marinos <
GMari58175@aol.com> and phone number (201) 445-3124. The address to which you
should mail your $25.00 payment is: 105 Thornbury Ave., Glen Rock, NJ 07452.
Make checks payable to "Concours Registry" and specify either Big Healey or
Sprite when requesting a copy of the Concours Standards.
Marion S. Brantey, Jr.
Concours Committee Member
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From John Slade <edalsj at igs.net>
From: "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: "Ph.J.Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>; "Quinn, Patrick"
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 12:34:38 -0500
Subject: Re: restorations books
What I would like to know is...what are the known errors in each of the
published restoration books? People seem to know that there are some,
but seem to want to keep the specific info to themselves, while still
advising others that there are errors in the books. After Roger and Gary
published their first excellent effort, they almost immediately made
available a modest correction list which probably corrected 95% of the
outstanding errors. We need the same sort of list for Clausager's book,
which seems to bear the brunt of this type of comment, and for any other
reference where errors are known to exist. Surely this is not a
difficult task? We seem to have lots of info being volunteered for
movies with Healeys in them, but that doesn't help my restoration very much.
John Slade
Manotick, ON
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From HealeyHundred at aol.com
From: "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: "Ph.J.Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>; "Quinn, Patrick"
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 13:36:58 EST
Subject: Re: Healey Sighting
<< Sort of like owning a sailboat, huh? >>
You mean it is a hole in the ocean which you can throw endless amounts of
money?
Richard
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: "Ph.J.Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>; "Quinn, Patrick"
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 13:42:15 -0500
Subject: Re: A Perfect Sunday
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7 Tri-carb
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From HealeyHundred at aol.com
From: "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: "Ph.J.Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>; "Quinn, Patrick"
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 13:44:00 EST
Subject: UK Veterans rally...was parts quality
Dear All
While I was in England last week, i had the opportunity to be able to
view some of the cars in the London to Brighton Veterans Car Rally. Only
cars built before 1909 are allowed to enter, some 400 cars entered this
years rally.
Click on the Link below to view some pictures. Brian
http://www.brianserff.com/VeteransRally/index.html
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From HealeyHundred at aol.com
From: "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: "Ph.J.Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>; "Quinn, Patrick"
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 13:51:38 EST
Subject: Re: A Perfect Sunday
<< I hope you don't leave us hanging but will give us an occasional update. >>
And send PICTURES...
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: "Ph.J.Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>; "Quinn, Patrick"
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 13:54:23 -0500
Subject: Formula V
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7 Tri-carb
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From "Ed Adams" <JE.Adams at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: "Ph.J.Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>; "Quinn, Patrick"
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 14:32:27 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey Sighting
>
><< Sort of like owning a sailboat, huh? >>
>You mean it is a hole in the ocean which you can throw endless amounts of
>money?
>
>Richard
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: "Ph.J.Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>; "Quinn, Patrick"
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 13:54:22 -0600
Subject: Re: Carbs
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: "Ph.J.Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>; "Quinn, Patrick"
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 13:56:09 -0700
Subject: Re: restorations books
Bill Lawrence
"Scheuble, Fred" wrote:
> Hi All,
> Now that I've decided to a full restoration on my BN7, I would like
> to know what are "must have restoration books" for a correct in every detail
> restoration, (plugs are welcome) and where may I purchase, for example Gary
> and Rodgers book among others, short of Moss.
>
> Thanks,
> Fred
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: "Ph.J.Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>; "Quinn, Patrick"
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 13:56:31 -0700
Subject: Re: restorations books
Bill Lawrence
"Scheuble, Fred" wrote:
> Hi All,
> Now that I've decided to a full restoration on my BN7, I would like
> to know what are "must have restoration books" for a correct in every detail
> restoration, (plugs are welcome) and where may I purchase, for example Gary
> and Rodgers book among others, short of Moss.
>
> Thanks,
> Fred
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: "Ph.J.Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>; "Quinn, Patrick"
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 16:04:51 EST
Subject: Factory 100 M's
I guess this is why I often hear it said that out of the original 640 M's
more than 3000 still survive....
Michael Oritt--1955 100 Le Mans (NOT an M)
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: "Ph.J.Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>; "Quinn, Patrick"
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 14:07:16 -0700
Subject: Re: restorations books
Bill Lawrence
Rmoment@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 11/11/2002 7:31:46 AM Mountain Standard Time,
> fred.scheuble@intel.com writes:
>
> > Now that I've decided to a full restoration on my BN7, I would like
> > to know what are "must have restoration books" for a correct in every
> > detail
> > restoration, (plugs are welcome) and where may I purchase, for example Gary
> > and Rodgers book among others, short of Moss.
> >
> Lest expectations not be met, there is NO book that is correct in every
> detail of restoration. In fact, among all the books out there, collectively
> (and even including the parts books), you won't find the answer on every
> detail question yo might have. Some books are better than others in 1) the
> amount of information included or 2) having fewer errors, and I like to think
> that Gary's and my book is among these, but if you want a completely accurate
> restoration you'll still have to do a lot of leg work for gathering info and
> build up your own reference library.
>
> The concours Guidelines, sold by the Austin-Healey Concours Committee, also
> has a lot of good stuff, and it is being updated again this fall so the 2003
> issue, which should be available by Feb., will contain not only more new
> tidbits but also some corrections to past versions. You can obtain a copy
> from Marion Brantley [MBran89793@aol.com]. Price is $25, but I strongly
> suggest you contact him now and wait 'till the new issue comes out.
>
> Anders' book, The Original Austin-Healey, is now available in soft cover, but
> has a number of wrong items shown in photos of the cars he chose to use.
> Still, the text is good and many of the photos of original cars have good
> stuff in them. You just have to use other books to let you know what to
> ignore in Anders' photos and what to pay attention to.
>
> There just is no "easy and complete" answer -- no "one-stop-shopping". But
> the availability of info is far better than it used to be.
>
> Roger
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: "Ph.J.Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>; "Quinn, Patrick"
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 14:12:51 -0700
Subject: Re: A Perfect Sunday
Charlie & Adriane wrote:
> After my sister stood me up for the multi-marque TSD/Gimmick Rallye held
> Saturday by the Miata club, I met a replacement navigator at an informal
> dinner I attended Saturday night. The moment I walked in, I recognized a
> woman from my HS years (class of '75). After introducing myself, we were
> talking cars and I told her about my flakey sister standing me up and how
> disappointed I was. She said she would navigate for the Sunday drive,
> ALRIGHT, my first date since my divorce! It didn't hurt she was and is still
> dropdead beautiful, funny, smart, never married, but ready and looking.
>
> Sunday the weather was perfect, clear skies and in the '70's. After the
> drivers meeting we were car #12 out of about 20 cars. We started out doing
> really well, but the more we got to know each other talking highs and lows of
> our lives since HS, the less we were paying attention to what the hell we were
> suppose to be doing. We were missing turns, clues, you name it. I think we
> drove most roads twice backtracking.
>
> At the end of the rallye, we were the last car to make the dinner/awards
> ceremony. At the end, were were voted nicest looking couple with the best
> looking car! Although there was no such trophy, but it was nice of them to
> say it.
>
> The Healey performed flawlessly all day... the '60 MGA and '70 MGB that made
> the rallye on Sunday had machanical problems, so they had their daily drivers
> for the Sunday drive. Besides my Healey, only a new mini and a 12 cylinder
> Jag carried the British flag amongst many Miatas and a couple of Porshe's.
>
> To top off my perfect Sunday, I was driving Patty to her car and a woman in a
> early big Healey red/oew pulls out of a restaurant parking lot in front of us,
> honking horns and waving to each other, I had to think of the odds of that!
> Other than car shows, I may have seen only a couple of Healeys in the past
> year on Austin roads.
>
> Sorry for the long winded report, but I sure wish I could live that day
> again,
>
> Charlie Stewart
> '53 BN1 Red
> Georgetown, TX
> chadstew@texas.net
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From "I Erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: "Ph.J.Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>; "Quinn, Patrick"
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 13:25:33 -0800
Subject: RE: Formula V
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of James Lea
Sent: Monday, November 11, 2002 10:54 AM
To: List Healeys
Subject: Formula V
Hello Listers. I have been thinking about a winter project and am wondering
if anyone on this list remembers the Formula V cars from the sixties? I had
one for five years and raced in the midwest SCCA regionals. It would be a
gas to have one again but a search through Hemmings and others comes up
empty. There must be someone out there who knows if these cars are available
and if they are still raced on the vintage circuit. I live three hours from
Loudin NH and five hours from Limerock CT. Thanks for any help. Cheers, JL
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7 Tri-carb
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: "Ph.J.Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>; "Quinn, Patrick"
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 16:24:39 -0500
Subject: FW: Healey Sighting
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Meanie"
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of R. Denton, Auburn
Design Group
Sent: Monday, November 11, 2002 11:11 AM
To: dcorning@comcast.net
Cc: Healeys/autox.team
Subject: Re: Healey Sighting
Sort of like owning a sailboat, huh?
dcorning@comcast.net wrote:
> It's always fun to see a Healey in a movie or on TV but my favorite Healey
> sighting is in my garage!..............
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: "Ph.J.Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>; "Quinn, Patrick"
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 16:28:33 -0500
Subject: FW: Healey Sighting
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Meanie"
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: "Ph.J.Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>; "Quinn, Patrick"
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 14:46:47 -0700
Subject: Re: Formula V
Bill Lawrence
James Lea wrote:
> Hello Listers. I have been thinking about a winter project and am wondering
> if anyone on this list remembers the Formula V cars from the sixties? I had
> one for five years and raced in the midwest SCCA regionals. It would be a
> gas to have one again but a search through Hemmings and others comes up
> empty. There must be someone out there who knows if these cars are available
> and if they are still raced on the vintage circuit. I live three hours from
> Loudin NH and five hours from Limerock CT. Thanks for any help. Cheers, JL
>
> James Lea Clockmaker
> 2 West St. PO Box 25
> Rockport Maine 04856
> 1-207-236-3632
> BT7 Tri-carb
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From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: "Ph.J.Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>; "Quinn, Patrick"
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 08:50:59 +1100
Subject: Stone the Crows
A fella's allowed to a little balls up every blue moon or two. Taking the piss
out of youse yanks (and other serious people) is the best part of my day.
On that note has any one seen the newish book about the exploits of cousin Les
Healey in the Alpine Rally? Great bloody stuff.
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
-----Original Message-----
From: Ph.J.Aeckerlin [mailto:j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl]
Sent: Tuesday, November 12, 2002 12:14 AM
To: Quinn, Patrick; healey gebruikers website
Subject: Re: Parts Quality - spelling
Patrick,
allow me to correct your French: it is Concours d' Elegance, not Concour de
Elegance.
(In the good old days in which I grew up we were tought four languages at
secundary school: Dutch, English, French and German. Has been a great help
to me all my life.Now realise I should have learned a fifth one: American.
Sometimes I have real problems trying to follow the discussions on this
marvellous site.)
Jack Aeckerlin
Capelle a/d Yssel, The Netherlands
BJ8 29432
----- Original Message -----
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: "'Charley Braum'" <cbaustin@sgi.net>; "Healey-List"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, November 11, 2002 5:00 AM
Subject: RE: Parts Quality - spelling
> G'day
>
> One of my favourite pedantry subjects. A concourse is something you can
walk or parade along or even a group of people and a concours is an
abbreviation of the French Concour de Elegance.
>
> However English is a changing language while the French stick steadfastly
at not changing theirs.
>
> Regards
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Sydney, Australia
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Charley Braum [mailto:cbaustin@sgi.net]
> Sent: Monday, November 11, 2002 2:45 AM
> To: Healey-List
> Subject: Fw: Parts Quality - spelling
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
> To: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
> Sent: Sunday, November 10, 2002 10:44 AM
> Subject: Re: Parts Quality - spelling
>
>
> > Just so nobody forgets, there is no 'E' in concours.
> >
> > Back me up here Gary.
> >
> > CB
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: "Ph.J.Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>; "Quinn, Patrick"
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 14:10:57 -0800
Subject: Re: steering idler - what does it do?
> From: "Ryan@Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
> Reply-To: "Ryan@Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
> Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 00:59:31 -0500
> To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: steering idler - what does it do?
>
> List:
> I am reassembling the suspension of my car and I was wondering about the
> steering idler. I thought it was like a shock absorber, used to keep the
> steering from turning too quickly in the event of bumps and things. But my
> rebuilt one doesn't have much resistance, even with 90 weight oil in it.
>
> Is it supposed to be easy to turn? If not, is there a way to adjust it?
>
> Ryan
> BJ7
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From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: "Ph.J.Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>; "Quinn, Patrick"
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 09:33:25 +1100
Subject: Shiny Stuff
I have recently bought a relatively new motor car (1992 is very new for me)
which had recently been detailed. The engine bay and all the plastic stuff that
seems to be used these days around engines had been sprayed with a shiny
coating of something. It has not dried like a coating of clear gloss but has
remained oily or liquid.
I am wanting to detail the car this weekend but have not had any success in
finding out what the liquid is.
Does anyone know what to spray into an engine bay to give this shiny finish. To
my friends outside Australia no brand names please as I will be unable to get
it here.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
ps. No, I not spray it under the bonnet of the BN3.
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From Joseph Smathers <healey27 at mindspring.com>
From: "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: "Ph.J.Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>; "Quinn, Patrick"
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 18:14:09 -0500
Subject: Re: FW: Healey Sighting
Is there much Healey content in this movie? It is only available on DVD to
purchase.
Clive Owen is the hero driver in the series put out by BMW and can be
downloaded at www.bmwfilms.com
The films are only about 6 to 8 minutes long and have some great driving
action. Make sure you go to earlier releases and download " The Star ".
Best regards, Joe
1955 100
1960 3000
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: "Ph.J.Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>; "Quinn, Patrick"
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 18:14:43 EST
Subject: Re: Shiny Stuff
<< The engine bay and all the plastic stuff that seems to be used these days
around engines had been sprayed with a shiny coating of something. It has not
dried like a coating of clear gloss but has remained oily or liquid. >>
That is likely some form of silicone. It is very bad for the rubber parts.
They will dry and crack after some time. Some argue that is is good. It's
much like a drug habit, you need to keep the thing drenched in it to avoid it
every drying...
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From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Ed Adams" <JE.Adams@worldnet.att.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 18:00:37 -0600
Subject: Re: Healey Sighting
> and get to use twice a year?
>
> >
> ><< Sort of like owning a sailboat, huh? >>
> >You mean it is a hole in the ocean which you can throw endless amounts of
> >money?
> >
> >Richard
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From "MARK LAWRENCE" <MLawrence at rmpla.com>
From: "Ed Adams" <JE.Adams@worldnet.att.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 16:31:41 -0800
Subject: towing a Healey
Thanks
Mark
Venice, CA
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From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "Ed Adams" <JE.Adams@worldnet.att.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 17:42:26 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: towing a Healey
At the Tahoe meet someone used a UHAUL box truck and
put the Healey inside. You would have to have some
good ramps and tie downs but that is one way to get
your $19.00 worth. Perhaps is was someone on the
list??
Dean BN7
__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
U2 on LAUNCH - Exclusive greatest hits videos
http://launch.yahoo.com/u2
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From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Ed Adams" <JE.Adams@worldnet.att.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 21:14:59 -0500
Subject: RE: Formula V
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of James Lea
Sent: Monday, November 11, 2002 1:54 PM
To: List Healeys
Subject: Formula V
Hello Listers. I have been thinking about a winter project and am wondering
if anyone on this list remembers the Formula V cars from the sixties? I had
one for five years and raced in the midwest SCCA regionals. It would be a
gas to have one again but a search through Hemmings and others comes up
empty. There must be someone out there who knows if these cars are available
and if they are still raced on the vintage circuit. I live three hours from
Loudin NH and five hours from Limerock CT. Thanks for any help. Cheers, JL
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7 Tri-carb
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From "Brad Weldon 55BN1" <healey at bradw.com>
From: "Ed Adams" <JE.Adams@worldnet.att.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 19:05:22 -0800
Subject: Re: towing a Healey
What a memory....
Brad Weldon
55 BN1 (in a multitude of parts in my shop)
Webmaster, Austin Healey Club USA
http://www.healey.org/
> Has anyone transported an AH 3000 using a UHAUL auto trailer
> (http://www.uhaul.com/towing/).
> If anyone has some words of wisdom (things like, the best way to secure
> the vehicle, will this damage anything?) with regard to towing a Healey
> using this kind of system please let me know.
>
>
> Thanks
> Mark
> Venice, CA
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From "Charlie & Adriane" <chadstew at texas.net>
From: "Ed Adams" <JE.Adams@worldnet.att.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 21:31:04 -0600
Subject: Re: A Perfect Sunday
This story is soooo long, I had to edit so much stuff and I'm sure you guys
are not interested in my love life. She did bring a camera and asked check
point guys to take our picture together, she said she would e-mail them to
me.
The interesting thing to me was (for Healey content sake), the Healey was
the most popular car there... I actually saw people walk past and completely
ignore expensive Porshe's to gawk at the Healey. I did find this
surprising with all the the Miata's too... most of these cars were somewhat
modified and look pretty darn good, rollbars, decals, wide tires etc...
I think as a brotherhood, we should seek these events out and participate
and drive our cars, they are reliable, attention getters and can be repaired
on the side of the road, unlike our Miata friends.
Lets build our future guys,
Charlie & maybe Patty :)
PS How do I eliminate my x's name from my post's?
----- Original Message -----
From: "THOMAS FELTS" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>; "Charlie & Adriane" <chadstew@texas.net>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, November 11, 2002 4:24 PM
Subject: Re: A Perfect Sunday
> Y no, Tink--I don't think he did. sorry, couldn't
> resist.
> --- ynotink <ynotink@qwest.net> wrote:
> > Well surely you have her phone number!
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From MOWOGMAN at aol.com
From: "Ed Adams" <JE.Adams@worldnet.att.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 22:35:30 EST
Subject: Re: towing a Healey
> At the Tahoe meet someone used a UHAUL box truck and
> put the Healey inside. You would have to have some
> good ramps and tie downs but that is one way to get
> your $19.00 worth. Perhaps is was someone on the
> list??
>
I tried this years ago when I first got my Mini and it spun a rod bearing 20
minutes into the 4 hour ride home! U haul in Timbucktoo, Ohio said that
transporting a car inside one of their trucks was forbidden!
So check it out before you try it!
Or don't tell them?
John, Oostburg, WI
Home of:
'60 AH 3000
'60 Austin Mini
'69 Austin America
'80 Triumph TR8 Coupe
'80 Triumph TR7 DHC
'57 BMW Isetta
'39 Dodge Coupe
'86 Jaguar XJ6
(more always welcome!)
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Ed Adams" <JE.Adams@worldnet.att.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 20:36:21 -0700
Subject: Re: A Perfect Sunday
THOMAS FELTS wrote:
> Y no, Tink--I don't think he did. sorry, couldn't
> resist.
> --- ynotink <ynotink@qwest.net> wrote:
> > Well surely you have her phone number!
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From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: "Ed Adams" <JE.Adams@worldnet.att.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 22:55:52 EST
Subject: Towing a Healey
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Ed Adams" <JE.Adams@worldnet.att.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 21:10:16 -0700
Subject: Re: A Perfect Sunday
This is a great event in a beautiful part of the country and you can take it as
seriously as you want to.
It's usually held around the second weekend in June when the mountains are at
their best.
Bill Lawrence
Charlie & Adriane wrote:
> I think as a brotherhood, we should seek these events out and participate
> and drive our cars, they are reliable, attention getters and can be repaired
> on the side of the road, unlike our Miata friends.
>
> Lets build our future guys,
>
> Charlie & maybe Patty :)
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Ed Adams" <JE.Adams@worldnet.att.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 17:51:28 -0600
Subject: Re: restorations books
JERRY WALL
ynotink wrote:
>
> I got mine at Borders Books.
>
> Bill Lawrence
>
> "Scheuble, Fred" wrote:
>
> > Hi All,
> > Now that I've decided to a full restoration on my BN7, I would like
> > to know what are "must have restoration books" for a correct in every detail
> > restoration, (plugs are welcome) and where may I purchase, for example Gary
> > and Rodgers book among others, short of Moss.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Fred
>
> /
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From HealeyHundred at aol.com
From: "Ed Adams" <JE.Adams@worldnet.att.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 00:20:03 EST
Subject: Re: towing a Healey
I used one of their earlier, longer, heavier versions to bring the BN1 from
Spokane to Denver. It came with 4 wheel baskets that secured the car
perfectly. No complaints, no problems. And no surcharge for one way.
Richard
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: "Ed Adams" <JE.Adams@worldnet.att.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 20:16:18 -0800
Subject: Re: A Perfect Sunday
Charlie & Adriane wrote:
> PS How do I eliminate my x's name from my post's?
>
> -
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From "Diann Jones" <diann.lindsay at xtra.co.nz>
From: "Ed Adams" <JE.Adams@worldnet.att.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 21:48:33 +1300
Subject: Couple of Parts Wanted
BJ7 - Gear - Tachometer Driving Service Parts # AEC679
BN2 - Engine Rev Counter Drive Shafts and Housing
If anyone can help with both or either of these parts, or know where we can
locate them, please contact us off the list
Much appreciated
Diann
New Zealand
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "Ed Adams" <JE.Adams@worldnet.att.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 21:19:03 +1100
Subject: Re: Healey Sighting
It was a great student job - getting paid to watch movies...... but the
downside was that you often had to watch the same movie over and over
again....
There was a movie called "Making Love" which starred Harry Hamlin, Kate
Jackson (one of Charlie's original angels) and a Healey 3000. I notice that
no one has yet mentioned this movie?? It was about this married couple -
this guy is married to Kate (what a honey) Jackson - he drives an immaculate
Healey 3000, nice big home, very successful yaddah yaddah
So far so good.
Lots of shots of him driving around in his Healey. But then .......... he
decides he's gay! and he starts cruising around gay bars - IN THE HEALEY!!!
There was even one scene where he turns up at a 'motel' - you know - the
single story, park-in-front-of-your-room type place - to meet his 'new male
friend' - played by Harry Hamlin - and the Healey headlights light up the
room number - and the room number is 104!!
As a Sprite owner - it bloody near scared me off buying a big healey!!
Imagine - married to Kate Jackson, driving around in a 3000 one minute -
then suddenly deciding that you preferred blokes !!
: )
There has to be another healey person who has seen this movie- and there had
to be a Healey person involved in the film - the room number shot; and (from
memory) lots of shots of the car, inside the car, driving the car.........
too much to be coincidence....
Anyone going to confess?? Bring their 3000 'out of the closet' so to
speak? - it had to be someone's car...........
Best regards
Chris
A big healey owner for over 16 years, and still heterosexual : )
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alex" <alexmm@adelphia.net>
To: "Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, November 12, 2002 8:28 AM
Subject: FW: Healey Sighting
> Add the movie "The Croupier," starring Alex Kingston and Clive Owen.
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From "Scott H." <austrheamgafun at arczip.com>
From: "Ed Adams" <JE.Adams@worldnet.att.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 06:30:58 -0500
Subject: British Car Week
I am asking for help from all of my fellow British car enthusiasts by
requesting that you pass along the following event information to all of your
British car friends, and any British car hobby related recipeints that you can
think of. With the much needed help of everyone, we can continue to spread
British car awareness to other potential enthusiasts, and help preserve all
phases of our wonderful hobby.
Much thanks for your continued support!
Scott Helms
BritCarWeek@arczip.com
http://users.arczip.com/zntech/britishcarweek.html
==============Please Read Below==================
The Seventh Annual British Car Week - May 24 to June 1, 2003
British Car Week is the ongoing tradition of spreading awareness of classic
British automobiles. Driving our British cars in our own communities during
this week, especially in larger numbers, will help create a heightened
exposure toward these wonderful cars, thus help to preserve the entire British
car hobby.
http://users.arczip.com/zntech/britishcarweek.html
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From "Charlie" <chadstew at texas.net>
From: "Ed Adams" <JE.Adams@worldnet.att.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 06:12:33 -0600
Subject: Re: A Perfect Sunday
I'm a bit shy, even at 45 yo... I've noticed being shy is somewhat endearing
to the ladies :) As long as they think it's their idea and not being
pushed, things work out pretty well.
I promise I won't let down my Healey brothers or embarrass you guys!
Charlie
> Richard and Charlie
>
> Since Charlie admits to "Patty" (after 27 years) being so
> drop dead gorgeous, therefore causing him to drive his Healey
> BACKWARDS in a TSD ralley, I'm quite sure he didn't,
> couldn't think "CAMERA - ACTION - PICTURES".
>
> Furthermore he states, "driving Patty to her car", WHAT ???
> Not to Dinner or His (now bachelor) Pad ???
> What kind of a HealeyDude is he ???
> Shame, Shame !!
>
> Those "Don't Mess With Texas" dudes, have something
> to learn or re-learn. They also have all the luck.
>
> Kirk ;-) :-(
>
> PS, If "Adriane" (as in "Charlie & Adriane") is the most recent X
> better-half he refers too, I suggest he revise his e-mail listing before
> sending "Patty" an e-mail, attempting to explain his actions,
> or lack-of-action, and his being so GOOFY on Sunday.
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <HealeyHundred@aol.com>
> To: <clocks@midcoast.com>; <chadstew@texas.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, November 11, 2002 10:51 AM
> Subject: Re: A Perfect Sunday
>
>
> > In a message dated 11/11/2002 11:45:22 AM Mountain Standard Time,
> > clocks@midcoast.com writes:
> >
> > << I hope you don't leave us hanging but will give us an occasional
> update. >>
> >
> > And send PICTURES...
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From Ah59bn4 at aol.com
From: "Ed Adams" <JE.Adams@worldnet.att.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 08:49:23 EST
Subject: Overdrive
Bill Percival 59 BN4 in 64th week of 12 week restoration
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "Ed Adams" <JE.Adams@worldnet.att.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 01:13:33 +1100
Subject: Re: Overdrive
This can be a relativeley common occurance. Don't try to drive it in
reverse - and don't park/ drive it anywhere where you can't move forwards.
The only way to get the car to move 'backwards' is by using a trolley jack
under the diff - with both rear wheels off the ground. Out of gear - you
won't even be abl;e to push it backwards.
Jack up the car, secure it with axle stands, crawl underneath, (or take it
somewhere where they will let you use a hoist) and look at the overdrive.
There is a steel plate sandwiched in between the alloy overdrive housing,
around the middle of the overdrive.
Using your copper/lead wire wheel hammer, smack the steel plate several
times. Don't 'belt the living snot out of it' - but tap the steel plate
firmly a few times.
Then go for a drive & try your overdrive - it should now be released.
The overdrive is put 'in' by the solenoid and hydraulics. It 'comes out' by
springs. Sometimes - the springs have lost tension etc, especially if the
car has been standing for a long time - and won't come out - and sometimes
it seems to be related to temperature - eg this sometimes happens if you
drive it hard (eg at a track day). But this tapping the plate method seems
to release the springs from the plate, and thus deselects overdrive.
Everytime I've done this/ seen this done the problem doesn't reoccur. ie it
happened once to me - neverr since.
Like the SU fuel pump that stops..... maybe its just the the threat of a
copper/lead wire wheel hammer that intimidates the overdrive back into
operation..... swearing/threatening whilst waving the hammer around also
helps - but is optional.
: )
I'm sure that Mike Salter, Norman or David Nock etc can tell you more about
what causes this - but I know this method will 'get you home'.
Best regards
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: <Ah59bn4@aol.com>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, November 13, 2002 12:49 AM
Subject: Overdrive
> Big day! !! Drove "almost finished" car for 6 careful miles or so. It
runs
> so strong that it's sooo hard to not push it. Will be a long 500 mile
break
> in. Only "major" problem is that the overdrive went in great when I
flipped
> the switch at 45 mph or so in 4th gear, but it won't come out of
overdrive!
> What are the trouble shooting steps for this problem? It worked without a
> hitch before this 15 month rest. Transmission was rebuilt, but the
rebuilder
> only "went through" the overdrive and it was found to be fine. Do I
remember
> correctly also that reverse should be avoided until this condition is
fixed?
>
>
> Bill Percival 59 BN4 in 64th week of 12 week restoration
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From "Ron Davies, DDS" <rdavies at cox.net>
From: "Ed Adams" <JE.Adams@worldnet.att.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 06:36:19 -0800
Subject: RE: Close call.
I sold my Harley to make room in the garage for my BJ8.
This weekend I sat at stoplights next to Corvettes, Miatas, and other
ragtops and we are really low to the ground next to them, and consequently
out of sight of the SUVs. Busy mom's on the phone, screaming kids in their
SUVs don't see motorcycles or Healeys. It's interesting that a Harely weighs
750lbs and has 55 HP and a Healey weighes 2200 lbs with 150 HP. Similar
weight/ HP ratios.
So if you fellow Healey riders want to learn from a Harley rider:
1. Assume no one can see you.
2. Assume everyone is trying to run you over.
3. Drive with your lights on.
4. Be VERY careful crossing intersections.
5. Expect the unexpected.
6. When you see someone coming the opposite direction about to make a left
in front of you, make eye contact and expect them to cut you off.
7. They're waiting for you to relax.
8. Keep the shiny side up.
Ron O. Davies
67 BJ8
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From "Kirk Kvam" <klkvam at prodigy.net>
From: "Ed Adams" <JE.Adams@worldnet.att.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 06:47:17 -0800
Subject: Test
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From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 07:03:52 -0800
Subject: Fw: A Perfect Sunday
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
> To: <HealeyHundred@aol.com>; <clocks@midcoast.com>; <chadstew@texas.net>;
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, November 11, 2002 12:31 PM
> Subject: Re: A Perfect Sunday
>
>
> > Richard and Charlie
> >
> > Since Charlie admits to "Patty" (after 27 years) being so
> > drop dead gorgeous, therefore causing him to drive his Healey
> > BACKWARDS in a TSD ralley, I'm quite sure he didn't,
> > couldn't think "CAMERA - ACTION - PICTURES".
> >
> > Furthermore he states, "driving Patty to her car", WHAT ???
> > Not to Dinner or His (now bachelor) Pad ???
> > What kind of a HealeyDude is he ???
> > Shame, Shame !!
> >
> > Those "Don't Mess With Texas" dudes, have something
> > to learn or re-learn. They also have all the luck.
> >
> > Kirk ;-) :-(
> >
> > PS, If "Adriane" (as in "Charlie & Adriane") is the most recent X
> > better-half he refers too, I suggest he revise his e-mail listing before
> > sending "Patty" an e-mail, attempting to explain his actions,
> > or lack-of-action, and his being so GOOFY on Sunday.
> >
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <HealeyHundred@aol.com>
> > To: <clocks@midcoast.com>; <chadstew@texas.net>;
<healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Monday, November 11, 2002 10:51 AM
> > Subject: Re: A Perfect Sunday
> >
> >
> > > In a message dated 11/11/2002 11:45:22 AM Mountain Standard Time,
> > > clocks@midcoast.com writes:
> > >
> > > << I hope you don't leave us hanging but will give us an occasional
> > update. >>
> > >
> > > And send PICTURES...
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 10:44:30 -0500
Subject: Re: Close call.
> So if you fellow Healey riders want to learn from a Harley rider:
> 6. When you see someone coming the opposite direction about to make a left
> in front of you, make eye contact and expect them to cut you off.
And just to amplify, from another bicycle and motorcycle rider...
...humans have a pretty good collision-avoidance algorithm hard-wired in
their brains, but it's no good if they're not looking.
On a two-wheeler, I find it useful, if I'm not sure someone sees me, to make
a *slight* momentary swerve toward them. That usually activates the
collision avoidance system.
Oh, and a second on the notion of driving as though you're invisible (to
everyone except the police).
--
John Miller, N4VU
Cold, adj.:
When the politicians walk around with their hands in their own pockets.
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From N0040 at aol.com
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 10:43:21 EST
Subject: Re: Close call.
You just gave a perfect list of the "defensive driving" we should all follow
in any vehicle. We should especially have our children memorize and follow
same.....
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI (4 on the roads, 1 to go)
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From "Kirk Kvam" <klkvam at prodigy.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 07:46:07 -0800
Subject: Re: Test / List
It must be Pluto, as yesterday I attempted to reply
to several messages on the list (1 to Charlie's Sunday)
and all came back "Host unknown" while others
on the list were able to send and receive list messages ?????
My "Test" message to list today;
Sent 6:47 am
Received your response 6:55 am
Received test 7:22 am
USA to Down Under and Back, 8 min.
USA to List 35 min.
?????
Kirk
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: "Kirk Kvam" <klkvam@prodigy.net>
Sent: Tuesday, November 12, 2002 6:52 AM
Subject: Re: Test
> Earth to Kirk,
>
> Got you loud & clear
>
> Best
>
> ______________________________________
>
> Chris Dimmock
> Sydney Australia
>
> http://www.myaustinhealey.com
> ______________________________________
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From Barry J Hammel <BlueSky at execpc.com>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 10:59:40 -0600
Subject: Re: Formula V
Check this site: http://www.sracing.com/ Covers FV and Super V racing
including vintage. Note link for classifieds. FV is some of the least
expensive
racing, especially when considering cost of initial vehicle purchase.
The Midwestern Council (Chicago/Milwaukee/Madison) have several vintage V's
running around along with some vintage FF's. I am returning to racing after 25
years in a FF - old but not old enough to qualify for vintage. Might even have
to sell my street BJ7 to afford the racing :-(
Cheers, Barry (Milwaukee WI)
James Lea wrote:
> Hello Listers. I have been thinking about a winter project and am wondering
> if anyone on this list remembers the Formula V cars from the sixties? I had
> one for five years and raced in the midwest SCCA regionals. It would be a
> gas to have one again but a search through Hemmings and others comes up
> empty. There must be someone out there who knows if these cars are available
> and if they are still raced on the vintage circuit. I live three hours from
> Loudin NH and five hours from Limerock CT. Thanks for any help. Cheers, JL
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From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 11:39:08 -0600
Subject: Re: A Perfect Sunday
I'm doing the same thing... recently divorced... kinda not interested in the
whole dating gig... but I know this Cute little Banker that want's my
body... ( hey use your imagination here... maybe she's a little Blind girl )
anyway she's heard me talk about the Healey's... but she's never seen one in
person... she is going to come down here in December and check out the finer
things available in Enterprise Alabama... ( hope she can read Hick!!! )
anyway I told her we have to Bleed the brakes on the Hundred so we can take
it for a putt.... ( yes I can do it myself... just want to see her hands
dirty ) She says it's fine with Her... we'll see... I also ended up with a
bugeye in the divorce settlement... now the question is does she want it?
should I keep it? so on and so forth... what's next with it...
I may have to write an e-mail on toys... I'm finding there is a limit to how
much I can Honestly accomplish...
Keith ( Class of 75? and 45? damn Charlie... this can't be a mid life
crisis... I did that 6 yrs ago when I started racing... so what's going on
here? )
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Rader" <rader@interworld.net>
To: "Charlie & Adriane" <chadstew@texas.net>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, November 11, 2002 10:16 PM
Subject: Re: A Perfect Sunday
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 12:37:17 -0500
Subject: RE: FW: Healey Sighting
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Meanie"
---Original Message-----
From: Joseph Smathers [mailto:healey27@mindspring.com]
Sent: Monday, November 11, 2002 6:14 PM
To: Alex
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: FW: Healey Sighting
At 04:28 PM 11/11/2002, you wrote:
>Add the movie "The Croupier," starring Alex Kingston and Clive Owen.
>
>== Alex in Maine
> 1960 BT7 "Blue Meanie"
Alex,
Is there much Healey content in this movie? It is only available on DVD to
purchase.
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 10:17:26 -0800
Subject: Towing a Healey
This has been a great trailer! Apparently it had a factory winch mounted on
the tongue which some PO had removed. I replaced it w/ a boat trailer winch.
For the front tiedown, bolt a chain between the inner sides of the
threaded bumper mounts, and just hook the winch to the chain. For the rear
tiedown, run a ratcheting nylon tiedown in an X pattern between the rear
cross-member
(by the spring shackles) to the 2 attaching rings/loops at the rear of the
trailer. For extra security, I space a 4" x 4" across the floor at the
front on the floor so that when the front wheels are pulled against it by
the winch, the front of the car is spaced back a few inches from the front
barrier of the trailer.
I have hauled various big Healeys up and down the West Coast w/ no
problems.This trailer is very stable at, or over, the speed limit.
John Snyder
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "MARK LAWRENCE" <MLawrence@rmpla.com>
> > To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Monday, November 11, 2002 4:31 PM
> > Subject: towing a Healey
> >
> >
> > > Has anyone transported an AH 3000 using a UHAUL auto trailer
> > > (http://www.uhaul.com/towing/).
> > > If anyone has some words of wisdom (things like, the best way to
secure
> > > the vehicle, will this damage anything?) with regard to towing a
Healey
> > > using this kind of system please let me know.
> > >
> > >
> > > Thanks
> > > Mark
> > > Venice, CA
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From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 11:43:13 -0800 (PST)
Subject: RE: FW: Healey Sighting
The only good thing on cable.
Dean BN7
--- Alex <alexmm@adelphia.net> wrote:
> There are two short (very short) takes showing what
> looks like a blue Mk. I
> in the flick.
>
> == Alex in Maine
> 1960 BT7 "Blue Meanie"
>
>
__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
U2 on LAUNCH - Exclusive greatest hits videos
http://launch.yahoo.com/u2
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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 13:03:13 -0700
Subject: Fw: Overdrive
Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Ah59bn4@aol.com>
> To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, November 12, 2002 6:49 AM
> Subject: Overdrive
>
>
> > Big day! !! Drove "almost finished" car for 6 careful miles or so. It
> runs
> > so strong that it's sooo hard to not push it. Will be a long 500 mile
> break
> > in. Only "major" problem is that the overdrive went in great when I
> flipped
> > the switch at 45 mph or so in 4th gear, but it won't come out of
> overdrive!
> > What are the trouble shooting steps for this problem? It worked without
a
> > hitch before this 15 month rest. Transmission was rebuilt, but the
> rebuilder
> > only "went through" the overdrive and it was found to be fine. Do I
> remember
> > correctly also that reverse should be avoided until this condition is
> fixed?
> >
> >
> > Bill Percival 59 BN4 in 64th week of 12 week restoration
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From Ptuleysr at cs.com
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 15:33:07 EST
Subject: Dash instrument holes
Price
60BT7
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From MBran89793 at aol.com
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 16:16:20 EST
Subject: Re: Dash instrument holes
> . What is the
> other used for?
>
>
The "windscreen washer."
M. S. Brantley, Jr.
Concours Committee Member
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From MBran89793 at aol.com
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 16:19:57 EST
Subject: Re: Dash instrument holes
> What is the
> other used for?
>
Please let me rephrase that. It is for the "windscreen washer pump."
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 17:32:08 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey Sighting
Chris
A big healey owner for over 16 years, and still heterosexual : )
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From "R. Poague" <rapoague at gte.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 16:37:21 -0800
Subject: Re: towing a Healey
Earlier this year I bought a used tandem axle wooden deck car trailer to
haul my BJ7 from Olympia, WA to Open Roads 2002 in Lake Tahoe. In the
process of deciding how to tie down the Healey, I looked at the UHAUL
trailers. The current versions use web baskets with tensioning ratchets for
the front wheels only. Liking what I saw, I purchased a pair of those
baskets from the UHAUL dealer for $22, and attached and rigged them on my
trailer in the same manner as the UHAUL. The UHAUL didn't have a rear tie
down scheme, but did utilize two safety chains, one fore and one aft. I used
straps and ratchets in the rear, hooked to the rear end of the rear springs
of the Healey and adjusted to compress the rear springs just slightly. The
whole scheme worked beautifully for the trip to and from Tahoe, towed by my
F250.
I've seen quite a few UHAUL trailers, and they all use the same tie down
method. They have dropped axles and long ramps, so should be easy to
load/unload. They still use the surge brake system. From my experience and
the examination of the UHAUL trailers, I think they would work just fine for
you. This assumes you have an adequate tow vehicle and hitch...1/2 ton or
better pickup or equivalent, and 7000 pound rated hitch and ball. And you
should definitely make sure you can get your car on and off the trailer
without dragging any part of it on the trailer or on the ground before you
rent/buy it. Of course you must have it hooked up to your tow vehicle for
this.
Bob P.
P.S. This was the first time I had ever trailered my Healey in the 19 years
I've owned it. Both it and I are getting older and and don't fit together
for long trips as well as we used to. I plan to trailer it to Eureka next
year as well. Anti-trailer folks, please hold down the jeers...you may find
yourselves in the same position someday.
----- Original Message -----
From: "MARK LAWRENCE" <MLawrence@rmpla.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, November 11, 2002 4:31 PM
Subject: towing a Healey
> Has anyone transported an AH 3000 using a UHAUL auto trailer
> (http://www.uhaul.com/towing/).
> If anyone has some words of wisdom (things like, the best way to secure
> the vehicle, will this damage anything?) with regard to towing a Healey
> using this kind of system please let me know.
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From "R. Poague" <rapoague at gte.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 17:28:25 -0800
Subject: Re: towing a Healey
Yes, the event in Eureka, CA is a Healey get-together. It is called "2003
Rendezvous" and is scheduled for July 7 thru 11, 2003. This kind of event
has been held annually at various locations up and down the West Coast for
years, and prior to 2000 was called the "West Coast Austin Healey Meet". It
typically draws cars from British Columbia, Washington, Oregon, and
California, but cars from everywhere are welcome and do appear. The 2003
event is being organized by a "consortium" of A-H clubs on the West Coast.
The "head honcho" is Karen Morrison in the B.C. club, karenm@telus.net. And
your question was not stupid at all. Thanks for your interest.
Bob P.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Trevor A Bentley" <trevor@atomiccartoons.com>
To: "R. Poague" <rapoague@gte.net>
Sent: Tuesday, November 12, 2002 4:47 PM
Subject: Re: towing a Healey
> > Bob P.
> >
> > P.S. This was the first time I had ever trailered my Healey in the 19
years
> > I've owned it. Both it and I are getting older and and don't fit
together
> > for long trips as well as we used to. I plan to trailer it to Eureka
next
> > year as well. Anti-trailer folks, please hold down the jeers...you may
find
> > yourselves in the same position someday.
> >
> Sorry to sound stupid... What is the event in Eureka next year? A Healey
get
> together?
>
> Thanks.
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From "Cory LeBlanc" <cleblanc at midsouth.rr.com>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 19:37:25 -0600
Subject: Re: Overdrive
I have fixed this condition a few times. Remove the tunnel cover and open
the brass 7/16 plug over the overdrive valve. If a teaspoon of oil comes
out, this is the problem. Remove the valve and clear the tiny vent hole that
is perpendicular to the length of the shaft. This hole is tiny, maybe the
size of a #60 drill. Do not reassemble until the 1/8 hole and the #60 hole
is clean.
Best Luck,
Jim LeBlanc
1956 100-M
----- Original Message -----
From: <Ah59bn4@aol.com>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, November 12, 2002 7:49 AM
Subject: Overdrive
> Big day! !! Drove "almost finished" car for 6 careful miles or so. It
runs
> so strong that it's sooo hard to not push it. Will be a long 500 mile
break
> in. Only "major" problem is that the overdrive went in great when I
flipped
> the switch at 45 mph or so in 4th gear, but it won't come out of
overdrive!
> What are the trouble shooting steps for this problem? It worked without a
> hitch before this 15 month rest. Transmission was rebuilt, but the
rebuilder
> only "went through" the overdrive and it was found to be fine. Do I
remember
> correctly also that reverse should be avoided until this condition is
fixed?
>
>
> Bill Percival 59 BN4 in 64th week of 12 week restoration
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 19:05:49 -0700
Subject: Re: A Perfect Sunday
good luck.
Bill Lawrence
"Scheuble, Fred" wrote:
> wait, you just met her and she's giving you grief about a two hour telephone
> call window? be afraid be very afraid :-)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Charlie & Adriane [mailto:chadstew@texas.net]
> Sent: Monday, November 11, 2002 10:31 PM
> To: THOMAS FELTS; ynotink
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: A Perfect Sunday
>
> Oh come on guys, of course I got her numbers... I told her I would call her
> at 9:00 AM (according to her) and called her at 11:00 AM * (one hour before
> the Rallye started, tons of time) . I swear I don't remember saying I would
> call at 9:00. When I called, boy did I hear a tone in Patty's voice... I'm
> smart enough to know she was not a happy camper... she gave me poop about
> this later.... point is, she showed up! I know it's mostly my charming
> personality she couldn't resist ;) As Doctor Evil from Austin Powers would
> say, rrriiight!
>
> This story is soooo long, I had to edit so much stuff and I'm sure you guys
> are not interested in my love life. She did bring a camera and asked check
> point guys to take our picture together, she said she would e-mail them to
> me.
>
> The interesting thing to me was (for Healey content sake), the Healey was
> the most popular car there... I actually saw people walk past and completely
> ignore expensive Porshe's to gawk at the Healey. I did find this
> surprising with all the the Miata's too... most of these cars were somewhat
> modified and look pretty darn good, rollbars, decals, wide tires etc...
>
> I think as a brotherhood, we should seek these events out and participate
> and drive our cars, they are reliable, attention getters and can be repaired
> on the side of the road, unlike our Miata friends.
>
> Lets build our future guys,
>
> Charlie & maybe Patty :)
>
> PS How do I eliminate my x's name from my post's?
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "THOMAS FELTS" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
> To: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>; "Charlie & Adriane" <chadstew@texas.net>
> Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, November 11, 2002 4:24 PM
> Subject: Re: A Perfect Sunday
>
> > Y no, Tink--I don't think he did. sorry, couldn't
> > resist.
> > --- ynotink <ynotink@qwest.net> wrote:
> > > Well surely you have her phone number!
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From cyfied <cyfied at uslink.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 21:33:29 -0600
Subject: Re: towing a Healey
Rick Ollah
BN1 (well most of it)
MOWOGMAN@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 11/11/2002 7:45:01 PM Central Standard Time,
> healeybn7@yahoo.com writes:
>
> > At the Tahoe meet someone used a UHAUL box truck and
> > put the Healey inside. You would have to have some
> > good ramps and tie downs but that is one way to get
> > your $19.00 worth. Perhaps is was someone on the
> > list??
> >
>
> I tried this years ago when I first got my Mini and it spun a rod bearing 20
> minutes into the 4 hour ride home! U haul in Timbucktoo, Ohio said that
> transporting a car inside one of their trucks was forbidden!
> So check it out before you try it!
> Or don't tell them?
>
> John, Oostburg, WI
> Home of:
> '60 AH 3000
> '60 Austin Mini
> '69 Austin America
> '80 Triumph TR8 Coupe
> '80 Triumph TR7 DHC
> '57 BMW Isetta
> '39 Dodge Coupe
> '86 Jaguar XJ6
> (more always welcome!)
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From cyfied <cyfied at uslink.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 21:58:27 -0600
Subject: Re: A Perfect Sunday
Keith Turk wrote:
> Okay Charlie
>
> I'm doing the same thing... recently divorced... kinda not interested in the
> whole dating gig... but I know this Cute little Banker that want's my
> body... ( hey use your imagination here... maybe she's a little Blind girl )
> anyway she's heard me talk about the Healey's... but she's never seen one in
> person... she is going to come down here in December and check out the finer
> things available in Enterprise Alabama... ( hope she can read Hick!!! )
> anyway I told her we have to Bleed the brakes on the Hundred so we can take
> it for a putt.... ( yes I can do it myself... just want to see her hands
> dirty ) She says it's fine with Her... we'll see... I also ended up with a
> bugeye in the divorce settlement... now the question is does she want it?
> should I keep it? so on and so forth... what's next with it...
>
> I may have to write an e-mail on toys... I'm finding there is a limit to how
> much I can Honestly accomplish...
>
> Keith ( Class of 75? and 45? damn Charlie... this can't be a mid life
> crisis... I did that 6 yrs ago when I started racing... so what's going on
> here? )
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ron Rader" <rader@interworld.net>
> To: "Charlie & Adriane" <chadstew@texas.net>
> Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, November 11, 2002 10:16 PM
> Subject: Re: A Perfect Sunday
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From rhss at onecom.com
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 22:58:38 -0500
Subject: BJ8 LIFTERS & PISTons
It is going to take 20 over Pistons I am getting those
from Moss also are they OK or their better ones out
there.
Thank you
Bob Sturdevant
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From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 21:18:48 -0800
Subject: Re: A Perfect Sunday
Yo li'll whippasnappa, sit rat down hee-ah,
an lissen up tooo u-ol Healeydaddy.
Hee-aah me now son,
She now aint gonna leav ya lone, oh
dump ya, lyke dat ol weeval Bill Lawrence saeez
As yus drives one-a dem "Red 53 BN-1s"
K...
Jus bout redi ta send dis, an jus intara-rupted by "cyfied"
(who ever the hell that is ?) complain-un bout ours fun,
HOW CRASS.
P.S. "cyfied", (whom ever thou art) if so encumbered with
e-mail, use da BIG "D" (as in "dating habits") delete key !
The subject matter is plainly stated.
Suggestion: "Porsche list".
----- Original Message -----
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
Cc: "'Charlie & Adriane'" <chadstew@texas.net>; "THOMAS FELTS"
<tfelts@prodigy.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, November 12, 2002 6:05 PM
Subject: Re: A Perfect Sunday
> Welcome to the Austin Healey technical and advise to the lovelorn list.
> Actually, Charlie, all thes guys aren't worried about your embarrassing
us.
> They just want her phone number in case she dumps you.
>
> good luck.
>
> Bill Lawrence
>
> "Scheuble, Fred" wrote:
>
> > wait, you just met her and she's giving you grief about a two hour
telephone
> > call window? be afraid be very afraid :-)
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Charlie & Adriane [mailto:chadstew@texas.net]
> > Sent: Monday, November 11, 2002 10:31 PM
> > To: THOMAS FELTS; ynotink
> > Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: A Perfect Sunday
> >
> > Oh come on guys, of course I got her numbers... I told her I would call
her
> > at 9:00 AM (according to her) and called her at 11:00 AM * (one hour
before
> > the Rallye started, tons of time) . I swear I don't remember saying I
would
> > call at 9:00. When I called, boy did I hear a tone in Patty's voice...
I'm
> > smart enough to know she was not a happy camper... she gave me poop
about
> > this later.... point is, she showed up! I know it's mostly my charming
> > personality she couldn't resist ;) As Doctor Evil from Austin Powers
would
> > say, rrriiight!
> >
> > This story is soooo long, I had to edit so much stuff and I'm sure you
guys
> > are not interested in my love life. She did bring a camera and asked
check
> > point guys to take our picture together, she said she would e-mail them
to
> > me.
> >
> > The interesting thing to me was (for Healey content sake), the Healey
was
> > the most popular car there... I actually saw people walk past and
completely
> > ignore expensive Porshe's to gawk at the Healey. I did find this
> > surprising with all the the Miata's too... most of these cars were
somewhat
> > modified and look pretty darn good, rollbars, decals, wide tires etc...
> >
> > I think as a brotherhood, we should seek these events out and
participate
> > and drive our cars, they are reliable, attention getters and can be
repaired
> > on the side of the road, unlike our Miata friends.
> >
> > Lets build our future guys,
> >
> > Charlie & maybe Patty :)
> >
> > PS How do I eliminate my x's name from my post's?
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "THOMAS FELTS" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
> > To: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>; "Charlie & Adriane"
<chadstew@texas.net>
> > Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Monday, November 11, 2002 4:24 PM
> > Subject: Re: A Perfect Sunday
> >
> > > Y no, Tink--I don't think he did. sorry, couldn't
> > > resist.
> > > --- ynotink <ynotink@qwest.net> wrote:
> > > > Well surely you have her phone number!
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From Kent McLean <kentmclean at mindspring.com>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 00:37:05 -0500
Subject: Re: A Perfect Sunday
Depends on the email program you use. For example,
in Eudora, look under Tools, Options, Getting Started.
There is a "Real Name" entry that shows how your
name will be displayed. Change it. Done.
I'm sure Outlook and other programs have similar
options/defaults.
And good luck with Patty. Love is better the second time
around.
Kent
'56 100 BN-2
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From Kent McLean <kentmclean at mindspring.com>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 00:49:13 -0500
Subject: Re: A Perfect Sunday
The best post-divorce advice I got was from a coworker who has
been married for umpty-ump years. His advice was to date 100
women. It doesn't matter if they're tall or short, fat or thin, white,
black, or brown. And it doesn't matter what the date is; dinner,
movie, or shopping for shoes. Just get out and have fun. No
commitments. No search for a life-long mate. No disappointments
if she isn't the 'one'.
That gave me the courage to ask a coworker at a former workplace
for a date. 1 date. Asked another coworker at the new job. 1 date.
A friend fixed me up with two friends of hers, blind dates both. It
started to get fun.
Then I found myself in the little league baseball stands watching my
kids play. I was seated next to the woman who was married to the
guy my ex had the affair with. Monday was her final court date.
"Would you like to go out for a drink?" She did. And the rest, as
they say, is history. We've been together for 4 years now, and are
engaged. Life is weird sometimes.
Kent
'56 100 BN-2
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From cyfied <cyfied at uslink.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 00:33:38 -0600
Subject: Re: A Perfect Sunday
Be well
Rick Ollah
BN1 (well most of it)
62BT7 wrote:
> Charlie,
> I be-un odd -nuf ta be yo daddy.
>
> Yo li'll whippasnappa, sit rat down hee-ah,
> an lissen up tooo u-ol Healeydaddy.
>
> Hee-aah me now son,
>
> She now aint gonna leav ya lone, oh
> dump ya, lyke dat ol weeval Bill Lawrence saeez
>
> As yus drives one-a dem "Red 53 BN-1s"
>
> K...
>
> Jus bout redi ta send dis, an jus intara-rupted by "cyfied"
> (who ever the hell that is ?) complain-un bout ours fun,
> HOW CRASS.
>
> P.S. "cyfied", (whom ever thou art) if so encumbered with
> e-mail, use da BIG "D" (as in "dating habits") delete key !
> The subject matter is plainly stated.
> Suggestion: "Porsche list".
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
> To: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
> Cc: "'Charlie & Adriane'" <chadstew@texas.net>; "THOMAS FELTS"
> <tfelts@prodigy.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, November 12, 2002 6:05 PM
> Subject: Re: A Perfect Sunday
>
> > Welcome to the Austin Healey technical and advise to the lovelorn list.
> > Actually, Charlie, all thes guys aren't worried about your embarrassing
> us.
> > They just want her phone number in case she dumps you.
> >
> > good luck.
> >
> > Bill Lawrence
> >
> > "Scheuble, Fred" wrote:
> >
> > > wait, you just met her and she's giving you grief about a two hour
> telephone
> > > call window? be afraid be very afraid :-)
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: Charlie & Adriane [mailto:chadstew@texas.net]
> > > Sent: Monday, November 11, 2002 10:31 PM
> > > To: THOMAS FELTS; ynotink
> > > Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> > > Subject: Re: A Perfect Sunday
> > >
> > > Oh come on guys, of course I got her numbers... I told her I would call
> her
> > > at 9:00 AM (according to her) and called her at 11:00 AM * (one hour
> before
> > > the Rallye started, tons of time) . I swear I don't remember saying I
> would
> > > call at 9:00. When I called, boy did I hear a tone in Patty's voice...
> I'm
> > > smart enough to know she was not a happy camper... she gave me poop
> about
> > > this later.... point is, she showed up! I know it's mostly my charming
> > > personality she couldn't resist ;) As Doctor Evil from Austin Powers
> would
> > > say, rrriiight!
> > >
> > > This story is soooo long, I had to edit so much stuff and I'm sure you
> guys
> > > are not interested in my love life. She did bring a camera and asked
> check
> > > point guys to take our picture together, she said she would e-mail them
> to
> > > me.
> > >
> > > The interesting thing to me was (for Healey content sake), the Healey
> was
> > > the most popular car there... I actually saw people walk past and
> completely
> > > ignore expensive Porshe's to gawk at the Healey. I did find this
> > > surprising with all the the Miata's too... most of these cars were
> somewhat
> > > modified and look pretty darn good, rollbars, decals, wide tires etc...
> > >
> > > I think as a brotherhood, we should seek these events out and
> participate
> > > and drive our cars, they are reliable, attention getters and can be
> repaired
> > > on the side of the road, unlike our Miata friends.
> > >
> > > Lets build our future guys,
> > >
> > > Charlie & maybe Patty :)
> > >
> > > PS How do I eliminate my x's name from my post's?
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "THOMAS FELTS" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
> > > To: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>; "Charlie & Adriane"
> <chadstew@texas.net>
> > > Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > Sent: Monday, November 11, 2002 4:24 PM
> > > Subject: Re: A Perfect Sunday
> > >
> > > > Y no, Tink--I don't think he did. sorry, couldn't
> > > > resist.
> > > > --- ynotink <ynotink@qwest.net> wrote:
> > > > > Well surely you have her phone number!
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 22:37:29 -0800
Subject: Re: A Perfect Sunday
62BT7 wrote: K...
> P.S. (whom ever thou art) if so encumbered with
> e-mail, use da BIG "D" delete key !
> The subject matter is plainly stated.
> Suggestion: "Porsche list".
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From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 22:45:02 -0800
Subject: Fw: A Perfect Sunday / New names
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From GMari58175 at aol.com
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 09:21:01 EST
Subject: Re: restorations books
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 12:02:54 -0600
Subject: Re: BJ8 LIFTERS & PISTons
Mark
> Hi I am overhauling BJ 8 and installing a reground
> camshaft I need new lifters I want to know what you
> people think of the lifters that Moss is selling.
> this car will be driven but not in competition.
>
> It is going to take 20 over Pistons I am getting those
> from Moss also are they OK or their better ones out
> there.
>
> Thank you
> Bob Sturdevant
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From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 09:09:03 -0800
Subject: wanted-wheel arch panel
Cheers,
John
BJ7
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 09:09:07 -0800
Subject: Re: BJ8 LIFTERS & PISTons
There have been a few problems with new lifters, possibly associated with
faulty assembly / start-up procedures, possibly faulty manufacture of the
lifters, probably improper hardening. Also, I have heard that lifters are
sometimes in short supply - hard to find them when you need them.
Most camshaft regrinders should be able to reface and harden the original
lifters - it's a fairly routine operation for them. If it were me, I would
go that route - at least you will know what is going back into the engine!
I did this when I rebuilt my BJ8 engine about 100,000 miles ago - no
problems - still runs well.
New lifters were used in the previous owners re-build of my BT7 engine -
they pitted quickly and damaged the cam. I am now faced with cam removal,
regrinding, and refacing the engines' original lifters, which, fortunately,
I still have.
The same thing happened to my MGB engine: New lifters at re-build, they
pitted in a few thousand miles, had to regrind the cam, and reface a set of
original lifters. All well after about 30,000 miles.
Fun and games!
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: <rhss@onecom.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, November 12, 2002 7:58 PM
Subject: BJ8 LIFTERS & PISTons
Hi I am overhauling BJ 8 and installing a reground
camshaft I need new lifters I want to know what you
people think of the lifters that Moss is selling.
this car will be driven but not in competition.
It is going to take 20 over Pistons I am getting those
from Moss also are they OK or their better ones out
there.
Thank you
Bob Sturdevant
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From "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 12:34:37 -0600
Subject: Re: wanted-wheel arch panel
John Loftus wrote:
> Looking for a right front inner wheel arch panel. The section at the
> front of the wheel well right above the shock absorber which is spot
> welded to the rest of the inner wheel arch assembly. Anyone have an
> extra or know of a source new or used for this part?
>
> Cheers,
> John
> BJ7
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From "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 12:37:46 -0600
Subject: Re:BJ8 LIFTERS AND PISTons
Mark and kathy LaPierre wrote:
> Could these answers be sent to "all the list" cause other inquiring
minds
> would like to know this also. Good question.
>
> Mark
>
> > Hi I am overhauling BJ 8 and installing a reground
> > camshaft I need new lifters I want to know what you
> > people think of the lifters that Moss is selling.
> > this car will be driven but not in competition.
> >
> > It is going to take 20 over Pistons I am getting those
> > from Moss also are they OK or their better ones out
> > there.
> >
> > Thank you
> > Bob Sturdevant
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From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 12:53:44 EST
Subject: Re: Fw: A Perfect Sunday / New names
Dick Hosmer
Northern CA
BT7L18556
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From "Terry Brunner" <brunner at premier1.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 10:03:10 -0800
Subject: Thank You
Terry Brunner
67 BJ8
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 09:59:38 -0800
Subject: Lifters
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 13:02:36 EST
Subject: Re: wanted-wheel arch panel
<< Looking for a right front inner wheel arch panel. The section at the
front of the wheel well right above the shock absorber which is spot
welded to the rest of the inner wheel arch assembly. Anyone have an
extra or know of a source new or used for this part?
Cheers,
John
BJ7 >>
John we have these available new AH267R in stock. Give Micheal a call in the
parts for more info.
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From Kent McLean <kentmclean at mindspring.com>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 13:35:40 -0500
Subject: Re: A Perfect Sunday
My biggest concern with the divorce was the possibility of losing the Healey.
It was unrestored, so she wasn't going to fight over "that pile of crap".
It still
is unrestored, but I still own it.
It took a while (almost 2 years) before I felt ready to date again. She had
been
cheating on me. I'm over it. The best part is, she isn't. I'm may be
broke, but
I'm happier now than I ever was with her. She may be getting my money, but
she is miserable. C'est la vie.
Kent
'56 100 BN-2
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From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 10:35:58 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: BJ8 LIFTERS & PISTons - Lifter fit
I discovered this only after finishing my rebuild and
having to readjust the valves a couple of times. Don't
repeat my mistake. Double check the fit of these
parts.
Also the cup at the top of the lifter was too small to
fully seat the rocker arm threaded ball. Using
machine die, plastic gauge (silly putty) and some
radius gauges we were able to measure the fit.
PS. I took the time to drive up to Moss, document the
problem explain what was needed for the part to fit.
They immediately pulled the remaining inventory and
committed to contacting their supplier. Turn around
for new Moss parts was longer than I wanted to wait,
so I went to Crane Cams. I am telling you this
because they might have a correct item currently in
stock. Double check and ask for the part history if
you are unsure.
Dean BN7
__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
U2 on LAUNCH - Exclusive greatest hits videos
http://launch.yahoo.com/u2
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From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 12:53:58 -0600
Subject: BJ8 lifters and pistons
The suggestions of both Earl and John are fine; and the process they describe
for reworking the lifters does work. I do not know about the Moss pistons, I
purchased hepolite pistons from SC Parts in England as they matched the
originals the best. As to lifters, unlike Earl and John, I went with a
road/rally camshaft and lifters from Dennis Welch Racing in England and have had
excellent service from this choice.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
'65 BJ8
'89 Morgan 4/4
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From "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 13:59:31 -0600
Subject: Re: A Perfect Sunday
Did you not get the message? Charlie's love line is closed, cerrado, ferme.
We have all had enough.
Maybe all of you with no lives can exchange phone numbers or whatever it is that
you do.
Nothing personal.
I have no financial or emotional interest in this part of Charlie's love line,
blah, blah, blah
Bob Denton
Kent McLean wrote:
> At 11/13/02 09:55 AM, you wrote:
> >Great story Kent and great advice! You would be shocked at the number of
> >personal responses I received on this topic... I felt like I was the only
> >one with a Healey going thru this, I don't now! I feel like I have gained
> >a couple of personal friends from it too.
>
> My biggest concern with the divorce was the possibility of losing the Healey.
> It was unrestored, so she wasn't going to fight over "that pile of crap".
> It still
> is unrestored, but I still own it.
>
> It took a while (almost 2 years) before I felt ready to date again. She had
> been
> cheating on me. I'm over it. The best part is, she isn't. I'm may be
> broke, but
> I'm happier now than I ever was with her. She may be getting my money, but
> she is miserable. C'est la vie.
>
> Kent
> '56 100 BN-2
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From "Kirk Kvam" <klkvam at prodigy.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 11:12:59 -0800
Subject: Anyone in Charlotte, NC. know this guy ?
Kirk ;-)
CIGAR INSURANCE
Note: This is crazy enough to be true.
This is the best lawyer story of the year, decade and probably the
century...
A Charlotte, NC, lawyer purchased a box of very rare and expensive cigars,
then insured them against fire among other things. Within a month, having
smoked his entire stockpile of these great cigars and without yet having
made his first premium payment on the policy, the lawyer filed a claim
against the insurance company.
In his claim, the lawyer stated the cigars were lost "in a series of small
fires."
The insurance company refused to pay, citing the obvious reason:
that the man had consumed the cigars in the normal fashion.
The lawyer sued....and won!
In delivering his ruling, the judge agreed with the insurance company that
the claim was frivolous. The Judge stated nevertheless, that the lawyer
held a policy from the company in which it had warranted that the cigars
were insurable and also guaranteed that it would insure them against fire,
without defining what is considered to be unacceptable fire," and was
obligated to pay the claim.
Rather than endure a lengthy and costly appeal process, the insurance
company accepted the ruling and paid $15,000.00 to the lawyer for his
loss of the rare cigars lost in the "fires."
NOW FOR THE BEST PART... After the lawyer cashed the check, the insurance
company had him arrested on 24 counts of ARSON!!!! With his own insurance
claim and testimony from the previous case being used against him, the
lawyer was convicted of intentionally burning his insured property and was
sentenced to 24 months in jail and a $24,000.00 fine.
This is a true story and was the 1st place winner in a recent Criminal
Lawyers Award Contest
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 11:12:50 -0800
Subject: Re: BJ8 LIFTERS & PISTons
Yeah, they're driven alot! The MGB is a daily driver - my wife drives it to
and from work, although it will be sold soon (bad left knee). Cost to
regrind cam and lifters - about $200 CDN at Shadbolt cams in Vancouver,
B.C. - I did the labour. Nothing else was needed other than a couple of
gaskets, as the engine had been newly re-built.
The BT7 - haven't got around to doing that one yet - I changed one badly
pitted lifter a couple of years ago, so I know that that cam lobe has
damage - there are likely others, as well. Other than a bit of valve train
noise, the engine runs fine as it is - good power for a stock tri-carb.
Drove it to Tahoe and then Colorado this summer without any problems. I'll
get around to doing it soon, I promise!
Cost of regrinding the 6 cyl cam and 12 lifters should be around $300 CDN,
really no big deal. If the cam turns out not to be regrindable, we've got
some good cores here that have come from saloon engines that can be reground
to the Healey specs.
Quality control seems to be the issue with new lifters - one is never sure
of what is coming from the aftermarket manufacturers / suppliers. IMHO, the
best bet is to recondition the originals, for sure!
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
To: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>; <rhss@onecom.com>
Cc: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, November 13, 2002 11:36 AM
Subject: Re: BJ8 LIFTERS & PISTons
Holly crap, thats gotta hurt the pocket book. Do you ever get a chance to
drive those cars?
Stop the madness, where's the "quality control" gone to.
Mark
> New lifters were used in the previous owners re-build of my BT7 engine -
> they pitted quickly and damaged the cam. I am now faced with cam removal,
> regrinding, and refacing the engines' original lifters, which,
fortunately,
> I still have.
>
> The same thing happened to my MGB engine: New lifters at re-build, they
> pitted in a few thousand miles, had to regrind the cam, and reface a set
of
> original lifters. All well after about 30,000 miles.
>
> Fun and games!
>
> Earl Kagna
> Victoria, B. C. Canada
> '62 BT7 tri-carb
> '67 BJ8
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <rhss@onecom.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, November 12, 2002 7:58 PM
> Subject: BJ8 LIFTERS & PISTons
>
>
> Hi I am overhauling BJ 8 and installing a reground
> camshaft I need new lifters I want to know what you
> people think of the lifters that Moss is selling.
> this car will be driven but not in competition.
>
> It is going to take 20 over Pistons I am getting those
> from Moss also are they OK or their better ones out
> there.
>
> Thank you
> Bob Sturdevant
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From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 14:58:41 -0600
Subject: Re: Anyone in Charlotte, NC. know this guy ?
> Know any attorney's
>
> Kirk ;-)
>
> CIGAR INSURANCE
>
> Note: This is crazy enough to be true.
>
> This is the best lawyer story of the year, decade and probably the
> century...
Actually, it is one of the longest running "tell everyone you know" hoaxes.
It's
been around since Jesus was a PFC. Check: http://www.snopes.com/index.html
for the whole story.
I'd rather hear about Charlies love life, personally.
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 528 (New census numbers)
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From John <john4 at attbi.com>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 13:09:09 -0800
Subject: Golden Gate AHC Holiday Dinner
WHERE: T. R.'s Restaurant in Concord.
WHEN: Things start at 3PM. Dinner served at 4:30.
Dan Sekella has arranged for a 4-course, sit-down, semi-formal dinner
with a choice of four entrees:
Grilled New York Steak
Grilled Free Range Chicken w/pesto sauce
Grilled Salmon w/lemon dill butter sauce
Spinach/Mushroom Enchilada
All entrees will be served with garlic mashed potatoes and fresh
vegetables.
First course will be a mixed green salad with vinaigrette dressing;
following the entree will be a Lemon Mousse with raspberry sauce dessert,
coffee or tea.
Cash Bar.
PRICE: $27.50, inclusive, per person.
Please send check payable to A-H Club Holiday 2002 to:
Dan Sekella
1410 Mohr Court
Concord, CA 94518
When you send in your reservations, please indicate your choice of
entrees and any special requests, e.g., steak will be prepared medium
unless you specify otherwise.
Marty Allen is planning to show the wrap-up presentation he made for the
last night of OpenRoads 2002 at the party. If you haven't seen this
presentation, don't miss it. If you have seen it, we know you'll enjoy
seeing it again. This show is sensational.
DIRECTIONS TO TR's: From the south: take I-680 thorough Walnut Creek and
bear right on Route 242. Exit at Clayton Road. Follow Clayton Road
approximately one to Galindo Street. Turn left and go three blocks to
Salvio Street. TR's is on the right. Park on Salvio Street or around
Todos Santos Square or in the public garage on Salvio.
From the north take I-680- to Willow Pass Road, turn left (east) and go
under
I-680. Go one mile to Galindo Street. TR's in one block up on the right.
For more information, questions, etc., contact Dan at 925-825-8966 or at
sekella@pacbell.net.
We will also have elections for club officers and cover other club
business as needed. If you are interested in serving as a Golden Gate
officer, please contact John Trifari at 408-541-9608 or at john4@attbi.com.
We need a head count by November 20. Please send your checks to Dan as
soon as possible. See you
December 1 at TRs.
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From Eric Wells <eric at associatedprinting.biz>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 17:15:27 -0800
Subject: Re: A Perfect Sunday/Re:All other so called Non-healey content
If the curmudgeons-at-large want to read one more post about which kind of
oil to put in the dashpots or another rant for/against parts suppliers, more
power to them.
But for me, part of the fun of having a Healey is the variety of people and
personalities I meet.
"It is not the road that makes the journey but the scenery."
That's original but feel free to use it.
Happy Healeying
Eric Wells
67 BJ8 in WNC
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From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 18:05:56 EST
Subject: Re: A-H 3000 parts was: wanted-wheel arch panel
I just stumbled on a guy that's got several big Healeys and lots of parts for
sale. He's in Virginia. He has a list at:
http://www.classic-autos.net/
Following should be a hyperlink?
<A HREF="http://www.classic-autos.net/";>classic-autos.net</A>
No financial interest, etc.
Steve Mickelson
'54 BN1 "Brutus"
In a message dated 11/13/02 9:14:10 AM Pacific Standard Time,
loftusdesign@cox.net writes:
<< Looking for a right front inner wheel arch panel. The section at the
front of the wheel well right above the shock absorber which is spot
welded to the rest of the inner wheel arch assembly. Anyone have an
extra or know of a source new or used for this part?
Cheers,
John
BJ7 >>
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From LarryRPH at aol.com
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 18:48:39 EST
Subject: Re: A Perfect Sunday/Re:All other so called Non-healey content
>
> C'mon guys,
> Fun is where you find it.
>
> If the curmudgeons-at-large want to read one more post about which kind of
> oil to put in the dashpots or another rant for/against parts suppliers,
> more
> power to them.
>
> But for me, part of the fun of having a Healey is the variety of people and
> personalities I meet.
>
> "It is not the road that makes the journey but the scenery."
> That's original but feel free to use it.
>
> Happy Healeying
>
> Eric Wells
> 67 BJ8 in WNC
>
> /// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or
> try
> /// http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool
Ps. Just pulling your leg!
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From THOMAS FELTS <tfelts at prodigy.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 15:51:35 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re:BJ8 LIFTERS AND PISTons x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
--- "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group"
<foxriverkid@earthlink.net> wrote:
> Are you referring to the Charlie's-love-line list?
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From Slvrbulit2 at aol.com
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 19:59:26 EST
Subject: Re: A Perfect Sunday/Re:All other so called Non-healey content
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From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 12:33:07 +1100
Subject: RE: A Perfect Sunday/Re:All other so called Non-healey content
Sorry couldn't resist that.
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
ps. Actually it's the name for the small oil reservoir (almost as hard to spell
as concours) in the bell shaped cover of the SU carburettor.
-----Original Message-----
From: Slvrbulit2@aol.com [mailto:Slvrbulit2@aol.com]
Sent: Thursday, November 14, 2002 11:59 AM
To: LarryRPH@aol.com; Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: A Perfect Sunday/Re:All other so called Non-healey content
what the hell is a dashpot anyways?
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <LarryRPH@aol.com>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 20:23:05 -0600
Subject: RE: A Perfect Sunday/Re:All other so called Non-healey content
> It's the little hideaway behind the dash where us ageing hippies keep our
supply of pot, hash, grass or whatever you call in your part of the world.
>
> Sorry couldn't resist that.
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Sydney, Australia
>
> ps. Actually it's the name for the small oil reservoir (almost as hard to
spell as concours) in the bell shaped cover of the SU carburettor.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Slvrbulit2@aol.com [mailto:Slvrbulit2@aol.com]
> Sent: Thursday, November 14, 2002 11:59 AM
> To: LarryRPH@aol.com; Healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: A Perfect Sunday/Re:All other so called Non-healey content
>
>
> what the hell is a dashpot anyways?
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <LarryRPH@aol.com>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 20:28:31 -0600
Subject: Re: A-H 3000 parts was: wanted-wheel arch panel
HoYo
----- Original Message -----
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, November 13, 2002 5:05 PM
Subject: Re: A-H 3000 parts was: wanted-wheel arch panel
> John/List:
>
> I just stumbled on a guy that's got several big Healeys and lots of parts
for
> sale. He's in Virginia. He has a list at:
>
> http://www.classic-autos.net/
>
> Following should be a hyperlink?
>
> <A HREF="http://www.classic-autos.net/";>classic-autos.net</A>
>
>
> No financial interest, etc.
>
> Steve Mickelson
> '54 BN1 "Brutus"
>
>
> In a message dated 11/13/02 9:14:10 AM Pacific Standard Time,
> loftusdesign@cox.net writes:
>
> << Looking for a right front inner wheel arch panel. The section at the
> front of the wheel well right above the shock absorber which is spot
> welded to the rest of the inner wheel arch assembly. Anyone have an
> extra or know of a source new or used for this part?
>
> Cheers,
> John
> BJ7 >>
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Andrew_Phillips at Keane.com
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <LarryRPH@aol.com>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 21:30:18 -0500
Subject: Re: A Perfect Sunday/Re:All other so called Non-healey content
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <LarryRPH@aol.com>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 22:16:16 -0600
Subject: I Couldn't resist
Mark L.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <Healeys@Autox.Team.Net>
Sent: Monday, November 09, 1998 9:08 PM
Subject: how do I do this?
> I bought my BN1 on a beautiful day. With the hood stowed behind the seats
and
> the side curtains in their bag in the trunk I gracefully entered the car,
> slammed the door and took off! Though I owned my last Healey (a '61 two-
> seater) about 35 years and 35 lbs. ago, I seemed somehow to have retained
my
> youthful flexibility, as I deftly did the one-legged insertion/squat entry
> combination.
>
> Tonite it was 42 degrees cold and so I put the top up and side curtains
on.
> Entry was a bit more difficult, but I attributed it to the weather. When
I
> got home, however, I COULD NOT GET OUT OF THE CAR! Several alternatives
came
> to mind:
>
> 1. Sleep in the car.
> 2. Attempt to remove side curtains and stow hood from the inside.
> 3. Call 911 and/or AAA.
> 4. Drive to all-night garage and have them extract me with engine hoist.
>
> In the end I sort of rolled-crawled out thru the space between the
door/side-
> curtain and the car and hood frame, landing on my knees onto the garage
floor.
> Not very pretty!
>
> Am I unique in having this problem? Is there an instructional video I
might
> obtain?
> Can anyone recommend particular stretching exercises and/or yoga
techniques?
> Has this maneuver ever been a competitive event at Healey gatherings?
>
> All donations cheerfully accepted!
> Michael Oritt, St. Leonard, Md. (BN1)
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From Russ Staub <bbb11489 at azboss.net>
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <LarryRPH@aol.com>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 20:14:32 -0700
Subject: Burning Oil
My '56 BN2 has recently taken to belching a fair amount of blue smoke
out the tailpipe, particularly when just idling. I used 2 quarts of oil
on a recent 300 miler, which seemed quite a bit more than normal. Any
ideas? Do 100's have valve guide seals, and could one of these have
gone bad, or whatever happens to valve quides?
TIA,
Russ Staub
'56 BN2
'67 BJ48
Mesa, AZ
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From "John P. New" <jnew at hazelden.ca>
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <LarryRPH@aol.com>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: 14 Nov 2002 00:50:46 -0500
Subject: What To Do Before Removing BJ8 Gearbox
Tomorrow I am removing the gearbox from my BJ8 to repair some gremlins
that have gotten in over the last year. Is there anything I should do
before removing the gearbox to make it easier to dismantle its innards?
Stop it in gear or out of gear, overdrive on or off, that sort of thing.
Thanks,
John P. New
London, Ontario, Canada
67 BJ8
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <LarryRPH@aol.com>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 21:55:20 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Burning Oil
I hate to say it but burning alot of oil, particularly
at idle, is indicative of a bad head gasket or worn
rings/cylinder walls.
The reason you are burning alot of oil at idle is
that's when the pistons are sucking in air at the
cylinder's maximum intake vacuum - and if you have
gaps in your head gasket or the rings aren't sealing
well against the cylinder wall... then oil will get
sucked through the gaps and burn at idle.
I'd suggest running a compression test and if
compression is weak in one or two cylinders, you'll
know where to start looking. My guess is your oil
control rings are shot. If you're lucky, you may be
able to get away with simply buying new piston
rings....
Good luck,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Russ Staub <bbb11489@azboss.net> wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> My '56 BN2 has recently taken to belching a fair
> amount of blue smoke
> out the tailpipe, particularly when just idling. I
> used 2 quarts of oil
> on a recent 300 miler, which seemed quite a bit more
> than normal. Any
> ideas? Do 100's have valve guide seals, and could
> one of these have
> gone bad, or whatever happens to valve quides?
>
> TIA,
>
> Russ Staub
> '56 BN2
> '67 BJ48
> Mesa, AZ
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <LarryRPH@aol.com>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 01:06:27 -0700
Subject: Re: Burning Oil
Some of the possible causes of oil burning are worn oil rings, blocked
crankcase venting, worn valve stem seals, & worn rocker arms which allow
top end oil flooding. I doubt if the problem is just at idle, although
this is the time when it is easiest to see. Unless the engine was idling
for the 300 miles mentioned.
Your engine has an oil passage from block to head for rocker arm oiling.
It is possible that a bad head gasket seal around this passage could let
oil be sucked into the #3 or #4 cylinders, but not likely, as it would
also have to be sucking in coolant if this were the case & there would
also be oil leakage to the outside.
The easiest thing to check is the rocker arms & this is one of the most
common causes of oil consumption. With the engine at operating
temperature & idling, remove the valve cover & note the amount of oil
flow from the rocker arms. It should be very little, a few drops at a
time from any individual rocker arm, not a stream. At the same time,
check to see if the vent tube on the rocker arm cover is open. It is
barely possible that the oil feed pipe from the head to the rocker arms
has broken or come undone somehow & this would flood the top end with
oil. Easy enough to see with the cover off.
The stock valve stem seals consist of rather ineffective rubber rings on
the valve stems. You cannot check the condition of the seals without
removing the valve springs. It is possible to remove & replace the valve
springs without removing the head but it is very difficult to do without
experience & if the seals are bad, the valves & seats probably need
attention also.
A cylinder leak down test can show the condition of valve, ring, & head
gasket sealing & where the leakage is occurring. You could buy a leak
down tester, but on the Four it is a two man operation to use it & it
takes some experience. Serious car people (racers) have leak down
testers as do the good shops. It is the definitive test for high
performance car & reciprocating air craft engines.
Dave Russell
Russ Staub wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> My '56 BN2 has recently taken to belching a fair amount of blue smoke
> out the tailpipe, particularly when just idling. I used 2 quarts of oil
> on a recent 300 miler, which seemed quite a bit more than normal. Any
> ideas? Do 100's have valve guide seals, and could one of these have
> gone bad, or whatever happens to valve quides?
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <LarryRPH@aol.com>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 01:00:38 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: What To Do Before Removing BJ8 Gearbox
When removing your gearbox, make sure to put some sort
of support underneath the back of the engine as once
the gearbox is out, there is no support on the back of
the motor and that can stress your engine mounts as
well as the frame around the mounts.
when removing the gearbox, you should make sure to
have it in Neutral as this will make it a little
easier to pull out from the back of the engine.
You should also use some sort of lift on the gearbox
as it is fairly heavy and bulky... although two or
three strong men can move it around fairly easily it
is much better pulled out using a lift.
Cheers & good luck!
Alan
--- "John P. New" <jnew@hazelden.ca> wrote:
> List,
>
> Tomorrow I am removing the gearbox from my BJ8 to
> repair some gremlins
> that have gotten in over the last year. Is there
> anything I should do
> before removing the gearbox to make it easier to
> dismantle its innards?
> Stop it in gear or out of gear, overdrive on or off,
> that sort of thing.
>
> Thanks,
>
> John P. New
> London, Ontario, Canada
> 67 BJ8
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <LarryRPH@aol.com>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 20:29:48 +1100
Subject: Re: What To Do Before Removing BJ8 Gearbox
And make sure that you drain the oil out of the gearbox/ overdrive before
you remove it!! Or else there will be a trail of oil flowing from the
propshaft hole - and oil gets everywhere!!
Also take the opportunity to replace the gearbox mounts and gearbox steady
rod bushes with urethane ones (esp the steady rod) - urethane doesn't go
soft & disintegrate when it comes in contact with oil, like rubber does.
Best regards
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "John P. New" <jnew@hazelden.ca>; "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, November 14, 2002 8:00 PM
Subject: Re: What To Do Before Removing BJ8 Gearbox
> John -
>
> When removing your gearbox, make sure to put some sort
> of support underneath the back of the engine as once
> the gearbox is out, there is no support on the back of
> the motor and that can stress your engine mounts as
> well as the frame around the mounts.
>
> when removing the gearbox, you should make sure to
> have it in Neutral as this will make it a little
> easier to pull out from the back of the engine.
>
> You should also use some sort of lift on the gearbox
> as it is fairly heavy and bulky... although two or
> three strong men can move it around fairly easily it
> is much better pulled out using a lift.
>
> Cheers & good luck!
>
> Alan
> --- "John P. New" <jnew@hazelden.ca> wrote:
> > List,
> >
> > Tomorrow I am removing the gearbox from my BJ8 to
> > repair some gremlins
> > that have gotten in over the last year. Is there
> > anything I should do
> > before removing the gearbox to make it easier to
> > dismantle its innards?
> > Stop it in gear or out of gear, overdrive on or off,
> > that sort of thing.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > John P. New
> > London, Ontario, Canada
> > 67 BJ8
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From THOMAS FELTS <tfelts at prodigy.net>
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <LarryRPH@aol.com>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 02:07:44 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: What To Do Before Removing BJ8 Gearbox
Remove the gearshift before starting and this will
give more moving room under the dash.
Actually, I removed mine once by myself. not easy or
recommended.
Cheers.
tom
--- "John P. New" <jnew@hazelden.ca> wrote:
> List,
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <LarryRPH@aol.com>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 08:17:50 -0500
Subject: Re: What To Do Before Removing BJ8 Gearbox
Here's another tip for doing the solo replacement: Get a couple of long bolts
(the kind with a fair amount of unthreaded portion) of the same diameter and
pitch as the transmission mounting bolts, cut off their heads and saw or
grind a screwdriver slot across the cut end. Screw them into the engine or
bellhousing and use them as locating pegs while getting the splines engaged.
After one or two of the other bolts are installed, you can remove the pegs
and put the regular bolts in their place.
Oh, and if you don't have a proper transmission hoist, you may find it easier
to hold the transmission on your chest and roll on a creeper. Just what
works for me.
Best,
--
John Miller, N4VU
Preserve Wildlife! Throw a party today!
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <LarryRPH@aol.com>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 08:43:50 EST
Subject: Re: I Couldn't resist
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Ken and Sharon Stickle" <kstickle at rochester.rr.com>
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <LarryRPH@aol.com>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 12:45:46 -0500
Subject: A little help!
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Steve Flatt <jsflatt at yahoo.com>
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <LarryRPH@aol.com>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 09:46:14 -0800 (PST)
Subject: bumper bracket or spring bar bolt size & pitch?
I get the list in digest format so a direct response
is OK.
Thanks from a (really) long-time lurker!
=====
Steve Flatt
Elk Grove, CA U.S.A.
jsflatt@yahoo.com
__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Web Hosting - Let the expert host your site
http://webhosting.yahoo.com
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From Austin Healey <ah62bn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <LarryRPH@aol.com>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 10:13:21 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Healey part on EBay
Here's a Healey part on eBay that sounds interesting,
although I never heard of one. Has anyone got one of
these?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1872677556
Bob S.
__________________________________________________
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Yahoo! Web Hosting - Let the expert host your site
http://webhosting.yahoo.com
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "simon.lachlan" <simon.lachlan at btopenworld.com>
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <LarryRPH@aol.com>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 18:22:45 -0000
Subject: RE: What To Do Before Removing BJ8 Gearbox
Simon Lachlan.
Comfort House
Bradninch
Devon
EX5 4NN.
U.K.
01392-882248
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of John P. New
Sent: 14 November 2002 05:51
To: Healey-List
Subject: What To Do Before Removing BJ8 Gearbox
List,
Tomorrow I am removing the gearbox from my BJ8 to repair some
gremlins
that have gotten in over the last year. Is there anything I
should do
before removing the gearbox to make it easier to dismantle its
innards?
Stop it in gear or out of gear, overdrive on or off, that sort of
thing.
Thanks,
John P. New
London, Ontario, Canada
67 BJ8
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From "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <LarryRPH@aol.com>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 13:44:17 -0600
Subject: Re: Healey part on EBay
Austin Healey wrote:
> Listers,
>
> Here's a Healey part on eBay that sounds interesting,
> although I never heard of one. Has anyone got one of
> these?
>
> Bob S.
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <LarryRPH@aol.com>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 13:50:17 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey part on EBay
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Austin Healey" <ah62bn7@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, November 14, 2002 1:13 PM
Subject: Healey part on EBay
> Listers,
>
> Here's a Healey part on eBay that sounds interesting,
> although I never heard of one. Has anyone got one of
> these?
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1872677556
>
> Bob S.
>
>
> __________________________________________________
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Austin Healey <ah62bn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <LarryRPH@aol.com>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 11:29:46 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Healey part on EBay
Bob S.
--- "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group"
<foxriverkid@earthlink.net> wrote:
> What's so strange about a gear shift knob?
>
> Austin Healey wrote:
>
> > Listers,
> >
> > Here's a Healey part on eBay that sounds
> interesting,
> > although I never heard of one. Has anyone got one
> of
> > these?
> >
>
> > Bob S.
>
__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Web Hosting - Let the expert host your site
http://webhosting.yahoo.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
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From Austin Healey <ah62bn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <LarryRPH@aol.com>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 11:37:29 -0800 (PST)
Subject: 1956 Austin Healey LE MANS 100/M on Ebay!
1956 Austin Healey : LE MANS 100/M
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1872662191
I have no connection.
Bob S.
__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Web Hosting - Let the expert host your site
http://webhosting.yahoo.com
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Slvrbulit2 at aol.com
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <LarryRPH@aol.com>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 16:03:02 EST
Subject: Re: What To Do Before Removing BJ8 Gearbox
A word of caution for having thet much weight on your chest. I use a 2X10
about 18" long and lay that on my chest first, that way if the tranny drops
fast it will have more area to spread out the weight and won't hurt as much
as if it lands on a rib or something.
Seth
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <LarryRPH@aol.com>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 17:11:59 -0500
Subject: Re: What To Do Before Removing BJ8 Gearbox
As to supporting the gearbox during removal/replacement, I once did this with
no help by using one of my son's skateboards with a scissors jack mounted on
it. It made it pretty easy to support the gearbox/overdrive while sliding it
back to clear the input shaft, or sliding it forward for installation. This
job is much easier with two people, however. The gearbox/overdrive isn't that
heavy, but it's awkward to maneuver in the cramped spaces inside the cockpit.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry (http://www.britishcarforum.com/bj8quest.html)
Havelock, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: John Miller
To: Healey-List
Sent: Thursday, November 14, 2002 8:17 AM
Subject: Re: What To Do Before Removing BJ8 Gearbox
On Thursday, November 14, 2002 05:07, THOMAS FELTS wrote:
>
> Actually, I removed mine once by myself. not easy or
> recommended.
Here's another tip for doing the solo replacement: Get a couple of long
bolts
(the kind with a fair amount of unthreaded portion) of the same diameter and
pitch as the transmission mounting bolts, cut off their heads and saw or
grind a screwdriver slot across the cut end. Screw them into the engine or
bellhousing and use them as locating pegs while getting the splines engaged.
After one or two of the other bolts are installed, you can remove the pegs
and put the regular bolts in their place.
Oh, and if you don't have a proper transmission hoist, you may find it
easier
to hold the transmission on your chest and roll on a creeper. Just what
works for me.
Best,
--
John Miller, N4VU
Preserve Wildlife! Throw a party today!
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <LarryRPH@aol.com>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 17:40:32 -0500
Subject: Re: What To Do Before Removing BJ8 Gearbox :)
Granted a BJ7/8 with the bulkhead welded in place has an extra challenge as the
starter bulge tends to hang up but still doable even by yourself. This way you
never have the full weight of the trans to deal with until you ask your wife to
assist you in lifting the trans through the door opening so that your nice new
paint job doesn't get (watch out! OH NO!!!) chipped. As she lets go to check
the damage you now get to see if you can really lift a Healey transmission.
Have fun....
Aloha
Perry
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From "John P. New" <jnew at hazelden.ca>
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <LarryRPH@aol.com>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: 14 Nov 2002 17:44:26 -0500
Subject: Re: What To Do Before Removing BJ8 Gearbox
Thanks to all who replied to my question, and for the great suggestions.
The gearbox came out easily, if not overly quickly. I had help, and
three of us managed to get it out of the car without scratching,
ripping, denting or breaking anything!
Because the car had to be transported after the gearbox was removed (on
a flatbed tow truck), we had to make a steel frame that sat in place of
the transmission to keep the rear of the engine supported and also to
keep it from moving forward into the radiator. It was only transported a
few miles (to its winter storage) and arrived without damage.
Now all I have to do is get it ready for its winter nap...
John P. New
London, Ontario, Canada
'67 BJ8
On Thu, 2002-11-14 at 00:50, John P. New wrote:
> List,
>
> Tomorrow I am removing the gearbox from my BJ8 to repair some gremlins
> that have gotten in over the last year. Is there anything I should do
> before removing the gearbox to make it easier to dismantle its innards?
> Stop it in gear or out of gear, overdrive on or off, that sort of thing.
>
> Thanks,
>
> John P. New
> London, Ontario, Canada
> 67 BJ8
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From Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <LarryRPH@aol.com>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 18:17:18 -0500
Subject: side curtains
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <LarryRPH@aol.com>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 20:40:26 -0500
Subject: Heat Shield Rivets
Scot
'66 BJ8
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From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <LarryRPH@aol.com>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 20:40:08 -0600
Subject: Looking for my old 61' Healey, and a 63' #19669
I co-owned this car with my brother and we sold it to a Dave Dolan I believe,
in December of 1979 in Iowa City, IA. It was a nice car and was mechanically
perfect with a red new paint job. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
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From Grglmn at cs.com
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <LarryRPH@aol.com>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 22:02:03 EST
Subject: Re: Looking for my old 61' Healey, and a 63' #19669
You cannot get online infor but they have contact info and you can serch by
VIN, don't know how far back their records go, you may be able to get the VIN
of your old car from their records.
Good luck,
Greg
54 BN1
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <LarryRPH@aol.com>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 22:20:20 -0500
Subject: Re: What To Do Before Removing BJ8 Gearbox
I have found a skateboard really useful in moving stuff around in general.
Just today I moved a 4 ft x 7 ft bookcase around as easy as pie. Have also
moved the dryer with two quite easily. Next time any of you have some
large/heavy/askward object to move, try one!
Keith Pennell
>using one of my son's skateboards with a scissors jack mounted on
> it. It made it pretty easy to support the gearbox/overdrive while
sliding it
> back to clear the input shaft, or sliding it forward for installation.
This
> job is much easier with two people, however. The gearbox/overdrive isn't
that
> heavy, but it's awkward to maneuver in the cramped spaces inside the
cockpit.
>
> Steve Byers
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From "I Erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <LarryRPH@aol.com>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 19:20:33 -0800
Subject: looking for
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <LarryRPH@aol.com>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 22:35:43 -0500
Subject: RE: What To Do Before Removing BJ8 Gearbox
Before starting, remove as much of the interior of the car
as possible, ie seats, carpet, center console, parcel shelf
(BJ7 and earlier), steering wheel.
Also, disconnect the hand brake cable from the linkage next to
the rear axel. On my car, you cannot remove the gearbox
cover unless the hand brake handle is pointing straight up.
I found that disconnecting the cable at the other end was the easiest
way to get enough slack.
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Steve Byers
Sent: Thursday, November 14, 2002 5:12 PM
To: Healey-List
Subject: Re: What To Do Before Removing BJ8 Gearbox
The long bolts used as locator pins in the upper two bolt holes is a very
good
tip. The last time I removed/replaced a tranny, I found the long bolts to
make the job much easier.
As to supporting the gearbox during removal/replacement, I once did this
with
no help by using one of my son's skateboards with a scissors jack mounted on
it. It made it pretty easy to support the gearbox/overdrive while sliding
it
back to clear the input shaft, or sliding it forward for installation. This
job is much easier with two people, however. The gearbox/overdrive isn't
that
heavy, but it's awkward to maneuver in the cramped spaces inside the
cockpit.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry (http://www.britishcarforum.com/bj8quest.html)
Havelock, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: John Miller
To: Healey-List
Sent: Thursday, November 14, 2002 8:17 AM
Subject: Re: What To Do Before Removing BJ8 Gearbox
On Thursday, November 14, 2002 05:07, THOMAS FELTS wrote:
>
> Actually, I removed mine once by myself. not easy or
> recommended.
Here's another tip for doing the solo replacement: Get a couple of long
bolts
(the kind with a fair amount of unthreaded portion) of the same diameter
and
pitch as the transmission mounting bolts, cut off their heads and saw or
grind a screwdriver slot across the cut end. Screw them into the engine
or
bellhousing and use them as locating pegs while getting the splines
engaged.
After one or two of the other bolts are installed, you can remove the pegs
and put the regular bolts in their place.
Oh, and if you don't have a proper transmission hoist, you may find it
easier
to hold the transmission on your chest and roll on a creeper. Just what
works for me.
Best,
--
John Miller, N4VU
Preserve Wildlife! Throw a party today!
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Sid Bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <LarryRPH@aol.com>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 22:23:30 -0700
Subject: Mr. Finespanner
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <LarryRPH@aol.com>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 17:59:15 +1000
Subject: Re: Anyone in Charlotte, NC. know this guy ?
Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
| Actually, it is one of the longest running "tell everyone you know"
hoaxes. It's
| been around since Jesus was a PFC. Check:
http://www.snopes.com/index.html
| for the whole story.
|
| I'd rather hear about Charlies love life, personally.
|
| Larry Dickstein
| Lone Jack, MO
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From "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <LarryRPH@aol.com>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 09:54:46 -0600
Subject: Wow, the list got quiet
What happened? Did we all get talked (typed) out?
Does anyone have a clue about the authenticity of the 100M on e-bay?
Bob Denton
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard at Coalfiresystems.com>
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <LarryRPH@aol.com>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 08:12:58 -0700
Subject: Healey in Denver
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From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <LarryRPH@aol.com>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 10:32:49 EST
Subject: Re: 100M Authenticity, was: Wow, the list got quiet
The VIN is listed as BN2L229089. I've copied Bill Meade, who maintains the
Worldwide 100M Le Mans Registry, and Bill Wood, who has a list of Factory
100M models. Hopefully, one these two can answer your question.
I've also copied Ed Adams and John Harper, who both maintain Registries of
BN1 and BN2 models. This car was not in John Harper's list as of June 2001,
but may have been added since then.
For those that want to look at the auction in question, the following should
be a hyper link:
<A
HREF="http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1872662191
&rd=1">eBay Motors item 1872662191 (Ends Nov-23-02 20:48:42 PST ) - Austin
Healey : LE</A>
Regards.
Steve Mickelson
1954 BN1 "Brutus" (experiencing cash flow difficulties
But, still trying to help the Registries)
In a message dated 11/15/02 6:56:18 AM Pacific Standard Time,
foxriverkid@earthlink.net writes:
<< Does anyone have a clue about the authenticity of the 100M on e-bay?
Bob Denton >>
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From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <LarryRPH@aol.com>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 11:07:20 EST
Subject: Re: 100M Authenticity,
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <LarryRPH@aol.com>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 11:09:57 EST
Subject: Re: Wow, the list got quiet x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
I have noticed in the past that everytime there is an exchange of vitriolic
messages on our list some folks go away, quietly shaking their heads, if only
for a while.
As regards the car on ebay, isn't it is described as a Factory Le Mans/M, or
something along that order? While it can be one or the other it cannot be
both! According to the ad the number of such cars seems to have been changed
to 662 cars versus 640, so maybe this car is one of the "new and authentic"
22 cars. And BTW, there are 6 "Factory M's" in the current Hemmings--kinda
makes ya wonder, huh?
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans (Not an M)
In a message dated 11/15/02 9:56:23 AM Eastern Standard Time,
foxriverkid@earthlink.net writes:
> After forty or so emails a day, the list died to almost nothing.
>
> What happened? Did we all get talked (typed) out?
>
> Does anyone have a clue about the authenticity of the 100M on e-bay?
>
> Bob Denton
>
>
Best--Michael
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From Troy Thames <TThames at barnwell-whaley.com>
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <LarryRPH@aol.com>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 11:16:23 -0500
Subject: Frame metal thickness
Troy
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From "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <LarryRPH@aol.com>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 11:21:02 -0600
Subject: Re: 100M Authenticity,
Healeyguy@aol.com wrote:
> I have asked the seller to verify with a BHT certificate that the M is real.
> Also to relay if the rear fenders have the body crease behind the rear wheel
> openings. (unrelated to M status but curious with the body number given) I
> couldn't tell from the auction photos. I have not recieved a reply to my
> post to him/her.
> Aloha
> Perry
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From "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <LarryRPH@aol.com>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 11:35:44 -0600
Subject: Re: 100M Authenticity,
Healeyguy@aol.com wrote:
> I have asked the seller to verify with a BHT certificate that the M is real.
> Also to relay if the rear fenders have the body crease behind the rear wheel
> openings. (unrelated to M status but curious with the body number given) I
> couldn't tell from the auction photos. I have not recieved a reply to my
> post to him/her.
> Aloha
> Perry
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <LarryRPH@aol.com>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 01:00:02 -0500
Subject: Re: 100M Authenticity,
Maybe it's just me, but do the wheel arch openings look correct - in
this side view?
Not an expert, just referring to Newton's "A-H Buyers Guide".
CB
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <LarryRPH@aol.com>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 01:04:08 -0500
Subject: non-Healey video question
Off-list is fine.
Thanks,
CB
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <LarryRPH@aol.com>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 10:43:05 -0800
Subject: Re: bumper bracket or spring bar bolt size & pitch?
John Snyder
> Anybody know what size the front
> bumper-bracket-to-frame bolt is on a 100-6? Car (early
> BN4) is currently with the painter or I'd measure it
> directly.
>
> I get the list in digest format so a direct response
> is OK.
>
> Thanks from a (really) long-time lurker!
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From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <LarryRPH@aol.com>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 14:18:30 -0500
Subject: Re: 100M Authenticity
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From "Sid Bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <LarryRPH@aol.com>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 12:26:47 -0700
Subject: Fuel pump
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From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (Richard Feibusch)
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <LarryRPH@aol.com>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 12:14:33 -0800
Subject: BBC Poll/ Best Looking Car???
The BBC is asking us car lovers a question.
What is the best looking car of all time?
Yeah there are some really cool cars out
there, and some really beautiful designs..
I might be a little predjudiced here,
but you can cast your vote at:
http://www.bbc.co.uk/lifestyle/motoring/
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <LarryRPH@aol.com>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 15:37:14 -0500
Subject: RE: Fresh air duct
I would have to disagree with the conclusion of others that the fresh
air duct was installed with a droop in it. I believe that these were
straight when installed but have a tendency to droop as result of their
weight when wet or damp.
We have disassembled cars where the duct had drooped all the way down to
the bottom of the fender and was resting on the inner sill.
We have stocks of the original Kopex ducting and it certainly has
minimal strength when completely wet.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Rmoment@aol.com
Sent: 8-Nov-02 10:49 AM
To: pennell@whro.net; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Fresh air duct
In a message dated 11/07/2002 10:10:57 PM Mountain Standard Time,
pennell@whro.net writes:
> I was browsing Jim Werner's web site and noticed something in the
picture of
> his Jamaican. The fresh air duct has a very pronounced droop in it
just
> forward of the firewall. This same situation existed on my friend's
BJ7
> prior
> to disassembly beginning the resto.
>
> Is this droop abnormal? What causes it? Did some cars leave the
factory
> that
> way?
>
>
Yes, there is a large "droop" to the fresh air ducting on the left side.
Part of the reason, I believe, is to aid in routing the tubing so that
it
doesn't interfere with the carb air cleaners. Also, installing this
ducting
into a completed and painted body is no trivial matter. However, if you
have
an empty engine bay, and the car is up on saw horses (to put it about 2
1/2 -
3 ft off the ground) you can stand in the engine bay and much more
easily
reach around to where the wire clamp holds the tubing onto the short
fitting
that is screwed to the firewall (and which, by the way, was attached
BEFORE
the body was finally assembled and painted because it would be very
difficult
(read almost impossible) to insert the three screws that hold the
fitting to
the firewall with the left wing in place as you'd be working "blind").
There is a reason for putting the duct in after affixing the wing,
though.
Getting to the middle top screws that hold the wing joint to the shroud
is
very hard witht eh ducting in place, as it hides access to them.
Just some thoughts.
Roger
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From Eric Wells <eric at associatedprinting.biz>
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <LarryRPH@aol.com>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 15:41:46 -0500
Subject: Re: Fuel pump
Eric Wells
67 BJ8 in WNC
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <LarryRPH@aol.com>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 15:43:07 -0500
Subject: RE: siide curtains
It's been said that to truly understand someone, you must walk a mile in
his shoes.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Rmoment@aol.com
Sent: 8-Nov-02 11:04 AM
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net; stjepkem@optonline.net
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: siide curtains
In a message dated 11/08/2002 8:38:41 AM Mountain Standard Time,
foxriverkid@earthlink.net writes:
> Welcome to Mossworld. These are basic sliding windows. They need to be
> "fitted". You could have gotten the exact same thing for 60% less at
your
> local acylic shop. Sort of like what Moss does.
>
Before you come down on Moss, remember:
1) all such parts were custom fitted at the factory when the cars were
new
2) with cars that have been around for some 40 years, and no telling
what
all has been done to them (remember the fellow recently who had a
windshield
mounting problem?), a certain amount of fitting will be required.
3) even with my original side curtains on my 3000 BT7 (original Healey
--
not to my car, however) , I had to do a little filing and careful
adjusting
of the mounting hardware, as well as trimming of the front edge rubber
seal
to the windshield frame. Ended up with 0.020" (or so!!) clearance to
the
hardtop aluminum window opening and a perfect fit to the windshield.
The
hardtop was not originally fitted to my car either.
So patience is certainly in order. This is not to say Moss, or any
other
supplier for that matter, can't have products that vary enough from the
original dimensions as to be difficult to use. Just let's not jump too
quickly on the wagon to be harshly critical.
Roger
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From "rdavies" <rdavies at cox.net>
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <LarryRPH@aol.com>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 13:10:44 -0800
Subject: RE: 100M Authenticity, was: Wow, the list got quiet
Subject: Re: 100M Authenticity, was: Wow, the list got quiet
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From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <LarryRPH@aol.com>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 16:44:48 EST
Subject: Re: 100M Authenticity, was: Wow, the list got quiet
Steve M
(and "Brutus")
In a message dated 11/15/02 1:19:41 PM Pacific Standard Time, rdavies@cox.net
writes:
<< I was at my mechanics today and he mentioned that he once had a patron that
asked him to "convert" a 1004 to a 100M for his personal use. After making
the changes he was furious to learn that the guy sold it at auction as a
100M. It happens.
Ron >>
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From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <LarryRPH@aol.com>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 21:53:59 +0000
Subject: RE: siide curtains
--
Ira Erbs
Digs-4 Solutions
For training,network,PC and
Macintosh
"Learning without thinking is
labor lost; thinking
without learning is dangerous."
- Chinese Proverb
> Kudos to Roger. (Whatever they are)
>
> It's been said that to truly understand someone, you must walk a mile in
> his shoes.
>
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Rmoment@aol.com
> Sent: 8-Nov-02 11:04 AM
> To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net; stjepkem@optonline.net
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: siide curtains
>
> In a message dated 11/08/2002 8:38:41 AM Mountain Standard Time,
> foxriverkid@earthlink.net writes:
>
>
> > Welcome to Mossworld. These are basic sliding windows. They need to be
>
> > "fitted". You could have gotten the exact same thing for 60% less at
> your
> > local acylic shop. Sort of like what Moss does.
> >
>
> Before you come down on Moss, remember:
>
> 1) all such parts were custom fitted at the factory when the cars were
> new
> 2) with cars that have been around for some 40 years, and no telling
> what
> all has been done to them (remember the fellow recently who had a
> windshield
> mounting problem?), a certain amount of fitting will be required.
> 3) even with my original side curtains on my 3000 BT7 (original Healey
> --
> not to my car, however) , I had to do a little filing and careful
> adjusting
> of the mounting hardware, as well as trimming of the front edge rubber
> seal
> to the windshield frame. Ended up with 0.020" (or so!!) clearance to
> the
> hardtop aluminum window opening and a perfect fit to the windshield.
> The
> hardtop was not originally fitted to my car either.
>
> So patience is certainly in order. This is not to say Moss, or any
> other
> supplier for that matter, can't have products that vary enough from the
> original dimensions as to be difficult to use. Just let's not jump too
>
> quickly on the wagon to be harshly critical.
>
> Roger
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From "Ph.J.Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin at tiscali.nl>
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <LarryRPH@aol.com>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 22:58:45 +0100
Subject: Re: Frame metal thickness
The guy who is presently putting a new chassis under my BJ8 (which is his
speciality, he's done this on more than 50 Healeys already) tells me the
factory standard thickness of the chassis beams is 1.6 millimeters,
equalling 0.063 inches (don't know the gauge number you Americans use to
indicate sheet thickness). Because of the known weakness of the chassis, he
rebuilds his new chassis in 2.0 mm sheet which is 0.0787 inches.
The thickness of my chassis beams, by the way, was zero for more than 40%
of their length.
( the above is based on the assumption that 'frame rails'is American for
chassis...)
Jack Aeckerlin
Capelle a/d Yssel, The Netherlands
64 BJ8 29432
----- Original Message -----
From: "Troy Thames" <TThames@barnwell-whaley.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, November 15, 2002 5:16 PM
Subject: Frame metal thickness
> I can't seem to find this anywhere in the archives, so does anyone know
what
> gauge / thickness the metal used to make the frame rails is? Thanks in
> advance!
>
> Troy
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From Rmoment at aol.com
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <LarryRPH@aol.com>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 17:07:11 EST
Subject: 100 M issue
However, there is another issue, perhaps of even greater importance here.
I've heard of a dealer in CA who had a new chassis plate made up that is a
duplicate of another genuine one -- i.e. there are now TWO BN2s (I think the
original also was a 100M) with the same number. This is a good reason why
having a list available for someone to pour through of what cars had what
numbers is NOT a good idea, as there are many unscrupulous types out there
and they'd just look up what number they needed for an "M" or any other
"special" car that might have high value when finished.
I believe I saw the "fake" BN2 mentioned above here in CO a year or two ago
and it was a good "50-footer". But I don't know how the wrangle over
"ownership" of the chassis number ever shook out.
There is no quick (read, 2-5 day turn around) way to verify 100-Ms. The info
has to come from BMIHT, and I would vehimently argue against having a source
for the numbers separate from them as their existence depends on usage of the
facility and services, so circumventing them does us all harm in the long
run. We all need them as a resource to be able to go to.
Roger
>
> I have asked the seller to verify with a BHT certificate that the M is
> real.
> Also to relay if the rear fenders have the body crease behind the rear
> wheel
> openings. (unrelated to M status but curious with the body number given) I
> couldn't tell from the auction photos. I have not recieved a reply to my
> post to him/her.
> Aloha
> Perry
>
Perry,
The number of the car was 229089. Since the first "official" BN2 was
229047, this would have been a very early BN2/M. As such it very likely
had:
1) BN1 front wings
2) BN1 rear wings -- no crease
3) BN1 Carmine Red (if it was a red car) or Spruce Green (if it was a green
car).
What is really needed is the BMIHT certificate on it, and for an e-bay
auction there isn't time for to get one.
Roger
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <LarryRPH@aol.com>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 18:10:53 -0500
Subject: Re: Frame metal thickness
The frame rail metal thickness is 0.075" (14 gauge).
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Troy Thames
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Sent: Friday, November 15, 2002 11:16 AM
Subject: Frame metal thickness
I can't seem to find this anywhere in the archives, so does anyone know
what
gauge / thickness the metal used to make the frame rails is? Thanks in
advance!
Troy
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <LarryRPH@aol.com>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 18:40:30 -0500
Subject: Re: Frame metal thickness
In agreement with Jack's chassis guy, I measured the thickness of the rail on
an original BJ8 frame with a piece cut out of it at 0.063". Another source
on the list once quoted 0.075" (14 gauge) for the thickness, and I had filed
that away for reference. Given the possibility that the frame I measured had
lost some thickness due to internal corrosion, I opted to pass on the 0.075"
figure.
With the corroboration of Jack's chassis guy, I believe the 0.063 is correct
for original rail thickness. Sheet metal gauge 15 is 0.067", and 16 gauge is
a scosh ("brok", Jack) under 0.060".
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Ph.J.Aeckerlin
To: Troy Thames
Cc: healey gebruikers website
Sent: Friday, November 15, 2002 4:58 PM
Subject: Re: Frame metal thickness
Troy,
The guy who is presently putting a new chassis under my BJ8 (which is his
speciality, he's done this on more than 50 Healeys already) tells me the
factory standard thickness of the chassis beams is 1.6 millimeters,
equalling 0.063 inches (don't know the gauge number you Americans use to
indicate sheet thickness). Because of the known weakness of the chassis, he
rebuilds his new chassis in 2.0 mm sheet which is 0.0787 inches.
The thickness of my chassis beams, by the way, was zero for more than 40%
of their length.
( the above is based on the assumption that 'frame rails'is American for
chassis...)
Jack Aeckerlin
Capelle a/d Yssel, The Netherlands
64 BJ8 29432
----- Original Message -----
From: "Troy Thames" <TThames@barnwell-whaley.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, November 15, 2002 5:16 PM
Subject: Frame metal thickness
> I can't seem to find this anywhere in the archives, so does anyone know
what
> gauge / thickness the metal used to make the frame rails is? Thanks in
> advance!
>
> Troy
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Rmoment at aol.com
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <LarryRPH@aol.com>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 19:07:01 EST
Subject: BN2 chassis numbers
I recently posted a note on the 100M people had been talking about. I my
text I said the following:
The number of the car was 229089. Since the first "official" BN2 was
229047, this would have been a very early BN2/M.
My BIG mistake. The first BN2 was 228047, not 229047. However, my other
comments about finding BN1 body parts on BN2s into the 229xxx series range
(and even into the 2330xxx range!!!) still applies.
Roger
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From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <LarryRPH@aol.com>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 19:08:00 EST
Subject: Re: 100 M issue
Either way, it would not verify that the car for sale was actually the
original car.
Regards.
Steve M/Brutus
In a message dated 11/15/02 2:08:45 PM Pacific Standard Time, Rmoment@aol.com
writes:
<<
There is no quick (read, 2-5 day turn around) way to verify 100-Ms. The
info
has to come from BMIHT, and I would vehimently argue against having a source
for the numbers separate from them as their existence depends on usage of
the
facility and services, so circumventing them does us all harm in the long
run. We all need them as a resource to be able to go to.
Roger >>
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From "craig" <craigeboy at sprynet.com>
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <LarryRPH@aol.com>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 16:56:23 -0800
Subject: selling a 1960 3000 BT7
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From "matt wilson" <mwilson18 at cox.net>
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <LarryRPH@aol.com>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 17:28:52 -0800
Subject: Re: selling a 1960 3000 BT7
----- Original Message -----
From: "craig" <craigeboy@sprynet.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, November 15, 2002 4:56 PM
Subject: selling a 1960 3000 BT7
> My father recently passed away and I inherited his 1960, 3000 BT7 Austin
> Healey. Can anyone offer some advice as to how I would go about selling
> it. I do not want to put it in the recycler as I would rather sell it
> to someone with a Healey passion like he had. I have pictures. I do
> not know where to start, what an acceptable price would be and so forth.
>
> It appears to have a good body, all metal, no bondo. Needs a better
> paint job. Original engine with 78K on it. Spoke rims and excellent
> soft top. I do not have the hard top.
>
> I would appreciate your comments.
>
> Craig Alexander
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From "Ryan at Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <LarryRPH@aol.com>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 20:37:44 -0500
Subject: thread types
Also, what is the name of the nuts/bolts that don't fit standard wrenches (I
forget the name). Which threads go with them? So far, all my nuts and bolts
work fine with my craftsman standard tools.
Just wondering, and hoping this thread doesn't prompt vitriol. :)
Ryan
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From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 19:49:33 -0600
Subject: Re: 100M Authenticity, was: Wow, the list got quiet
> Just communicated with a guy that had scrapped out a rusted out Ohio100M
and
> the "ID was transferred" to a BN2 frame resurrected from a Sacramento,
> California, junkyard.
>
> Steve M
> (and "Brutus")
>
> In a message dated 11/15/02 1:19:41 PM Pacific Standard Time,
rdavies@cox.net
> writes:
>
> << I was at my mechanics today and he mentioned that he once had a patron
that
> asked him to "convert" a 1004 to a 100M for his personal use. After
making
> the changes he was furious to learn that the guy sold it at auction as a
> 100M. It happens.
> Ron >>
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From "R.Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 21:11:47 -0800
Subject: Re: 100 M issue
I cannot believe you either said that or feel that way.
Is Healeydom some kind of secret society???
Bob Denton
Rmoment@aol.com wrote:
> I recently sent Perry the following in response to his comment on this topic.
> I thought, after reading a couple of other postings, that the list as a
> whole might want to see what I wrote. I copy it all below.
>
> However, there is another issue, perhaps of even greater importance here.
> I've heard of a dealer in CA who had a new chassis plate made up that is a
> duplicate of another genuine one -- i.e. there are now TWO BN2s (I think the
> original also was a 100M) with the same number. This is a good reason why
> having a list available for someone to pour through of what cars had what
> numbers is NOT a good idea, as there are many unscrupulous types out there
> and they'd just look up what number they needed for an "M" or any other
> "special" car that might have high value when finished.
>
> I believe I saw the "fake" BN2 mentioned above here in CO a year or two ago
> and it was a good "50-footer". But I don't know how the wrangle over
> "ownership" of the chassis number ever shook out.
>
> There is no quick (read, 2-5 day turn around) way to verify 100-Ms. The info
> has to come from BMIHT, and I would vehimently argue against having a source
> for the numbers separate from them as their existence depends on usage of the
> facility and services, so circumventing them does us all harm in the long
> run. We all need them as a resource to be able to go to.
>
> Roger
>
> >
> > I have asked the seller to verify with a BHT certificate that the M is
> > real.
> > Also to relay if the rear fenders have the body crease behind the rear
> > wheel
> > openings. (unrelated to M status but curious with the body number given) I
> > couldn't tell from the auction photos. I have not recieved a reply to my
> > post to him/her.
> > Aloha
> > Perry
> >
>
> Perry,
>
> The number of the car was 229089. Since the first "official" BN2 was
> 229047, this would have been a very early BN2/M. As such it very likely
> had:
>
> 1) BN1 front wings
> 2) BN1 rear wings -- no crease
> 3) BN1 Carmine Red (if it was a red car) or Spruce Green (if it was a green
> car).
>
> What is really needed is the BMIHT certificate on it, and for an e-bay
> auction there isn't time for to get one.
>
> Roger
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From "R.Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 21:39:58 -0800
Subject: I just invited the high bidder to join our list
Here is your chance, if you believe like Roger that he (she) shouldn't know if
this
car is real or not, to tell him, or her, just that. You can come right out and
say
that there are two private lists of verified100Ms that could be accessed, but he
(she) doesn't have the right to know.
Bob Denton
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From "GM" <altec210 at yahoo.com>
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 22:16:42 -0500
Subject: Re: Frame metal thickness
GM
----- Original Message -----
> With the corroboration of Jack's chassis guy, I believe the 0.063 is
correct
> for original rail thickness. Sheet metal gauge 15 is 0.067", and 16 gauge
is
> a scosh ("brok", Jack) under 0.060".
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From "Mark Endicott \(WS\)" <mark at nashvilletn.org>
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 21:17:42 -0600
Subject: Re: 100 M issue
Mark
BN1 Nashville
One of the "rare" non-M cars!!
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From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 22:31:08 -0500
Subject: re heat shield rivets
As far as I know, all Ive seen are painted metal shield, then heat panel
assembled afterward.R ivet heads and washers on the asbestos side.
Carroll
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From "Ray Juncal" <gonzo18 at mindspring.com>
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 20:22:21 -0800
Subject: Re: selling a 1960 3000 BT7
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 11:32:08 -0500
Subject: Re: 100 M issue
I'll let others comment on the 'originality' of the 'bonnet seal'; I
don't think it's correct, but that's just me.
As far as the engine compartment itself, it doesn't look like a lot of
work was done in there, does it??
On another note, allowing incorrect cars to be bid up (or just sold) for
a lot more than they are 'really worth' might tend to drag up all the prices
to false levels. Sort of like Enron at $65/share. When does the whole
inflated car-price-thing crash, or does it?
CB
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From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 00:01:03 EST
Subject: Re: thread types
With just a few exceptions, almost all of the fasteners on your car will be
UNF.
The BSF or British Standard Fine fasteners were used on the major and minor
mechanical components on the BN1/2s but since the British were in the process
of phasing them out during this time frame, the rest of the fasteners on the
100 were UNF.
Both BSF and BSW, British Standard Whitworth fasteners have the different or
non standard hex size that you refer to and as such, the wrenches or spanners
used are marked either as Whitworth or BSF, but most commonly referred to as
Whitworth spanners.
The components that would have either Whitworth or BA, British Association
fasteners on your car would be the Lucas, SU or Smiths components only.
Drop me an e-mail off list if you want further information on this subject
since I've discussed it at length on this list over the years and there is
way too much info to cover in a short post.
Cheers,
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5 :{)
In a message dated 11/15/02 7:50:56 PM Pacific Standard Time,
ryan@ledwith.com writes:
<< I am pretty far along with my restoration and noticed that most of my bolts
are UNF (63 BJ7). At the beginning of my restoration I bought a bunch of
extra
nuts and bolts and some taps for BSF threads, but haven't really needed them.
Any ideas what BSF are for?
Also, what is the name of the nuts/bolts that don't fit standard wrenches (I
forget the name). Which threads go with them? So far, all my nuts and bolts
work fine with my craftsman standard tools.
Just wondering, and hoping this thread doesn't prompt vitriol. :) >>
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From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 00:56:38 EST
Subject: Re: 100M Authenticity
Remember Gordon Brockman's 100M (The 58th 100M produced) that you and I
judged at the '99 West Coast Meet in San Diego. It was Chassis number
229028, body number 10996, and it originally came with smooth rear wings and
the reason I know is that I found the car in Los Angeles in '91, and it was a
one owner, 28K mile car.
I seem to remember that Gordon was thinking about changing them to the later
creased wings because he liked them better and the originals were in such
poor shape, but I talked him out of it. Plus, his body man was an absolute
magician and brought them back to near perfect condition.
Cheers,
Curt Arndt
In a message dated 11/15/02 11:23:41 AM Pacific Standard Time,
Healeyguy@aol.com writes:
<< Regarding the crease behind the rear wheel I would like to hear from
owners with cars in the 228047 to 229300 range to see if their car has the
crease or not. I know of one original car just below 229200 that doesn't
have it.
Aloha
Perry >>
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From Bruce Steele <bsteele2 at pacbell.net>
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 22:06:59 -0800
Subject: Fw: Looking for a project??? 1962 Sprite for sale
Bruce Steele
1960 BN7
bsteele2@pacbell.net
----- Original Message -----
From: Ken Johnson
To: bsteele2@pacbell.net
Sent: Friday, November 15, 2002 11:33 AM
Subject: Looking for a project???
Dear Bruce,
Looking for a project???
I had this sent to me, maybe you could forward it to the Healey ring for
this guy.
1962 Austin Healey Sprite
I have a sprite project car for sale $1500.00 obo complete needs some
work. Lots of new and NOS parts
Michael
909-214-5439
It was just a thought. Who knows, could be some fun! Later Bruce!
Agape kai Theos Euleges
Love and God Bless
Ken
559-307-2458
Get your free E-mail from http://www.fresnomail.com/
Visit The Fresno Bee at http://www.fresnobee.com/
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From "John Peak" <johnepeak at hotmail.com>
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 22:22:33 -0800
Subject: Re: thread types
John
>From: CNAArndt@aol.com
>Reply-To: CNAArndt@aol.com
>To: ryan@ledwith.com
>CC: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: thread types
>Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 00:01:03 EST
>
>Ryan,
>
>With just a few exceptions, almost all of the fasteners on your car will be
>UNF.
>
>The BSF or British Standard Fine fasteners were used on the major and minor
>mechanical components on the BN1/2s but since the British were in the
>process
>of phasing them out during this time frame, the rest of the fasteners on
>the
>100 were UNF.
>
>Both BSF and BSW, British Standard Whitworth fasteners have the different
>or
>non standard hex size that you refer to and as such, the wrenches or
>spanners
>used are marked either as Whitworth or BSF, but most commonly referred to
>as
>Whitworth spanners.
>
>The components that would have either Whitworth or BA, British Association
>fasteners on your car would be the Lucas, SU or Smiths components only.
>
>Drop me an e-mail off list if you want further information on this subject
>since I've discussed it at length on this list over the years and there is
>way too much info to cover in a short post.
>
>Cheers,
>
>Curt Arndt
>Carlsbad, CA
>'55 BN1, '60 AN5 :{)
>
>In a message dated 11/15/02 7:50:56 PM Pacific Standard Time,
>ryan@ledwith.com writes:
>
><< I am pretty far along with my restoration and noticed that most of my
>bolts
> are UNF (63 BJ7). At the beginning of my restoration I bought a bunch of
>extra
> nuts and bolts and some taps for BSF threads, but haven't really needed
>them.
> Any ideas what BSF are for?
>
> Also, what is the name of the nuts/bolts that don't fit standard wrenches
>(I
> forget the name). Which threads go with them? So far, all my nuts and
>bolts
> work fine with my craftsman standard tools.
>
> Just wondering, and hoping this thread doesn't prompt vitriol. :) >>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*.
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 06:49:00 -0500
Subject: Fw: 100 M issue
Recognizing that Roger's remarks are probably only intended for 100Ms and
other "rare" Healeys.....
Lest anyone read his comments and conclude that ALL non-BMIHT registries of
cars (lists of VINs and other data) is a bad thing, I would like to provide a
dissenting voice. Most of you know by now that the BJ8 registry is a subject
close to my heart. I know, based on the experience of the last 5 years, that
having a collection of identifying details and ownership history on as many
cars as possible has proven to be a valuable and a positive thing to the
Healey community. It allows us to gain some insights into the original
production of the cars, how they are configured and distributed today, as well
as to be of help to owners who have occasion to ask questions about their own
car or its true identification. The registries can provide a source of
information to Healey owners and enthusiasts that is not available anywhere
else.
The bad guys who are willing to forge a new VIN plate for a car will find a
way to discover the "legitimate" numbers, if it's important enough for to them
to do so, whether a list of them exists outside BMIHT or not. I think the
lists for these cars have by now already been constructed anyway by those who
are interested. The range of VINs for other models is already published (in
Clausager, for one) and is available to anybody.
BMIHT knows that ABC123 is a legitimate VIN for a 100M, but they aren't
keeping up with who owns it or where it is. Nor do they know that engine X
and/or gearbox Y has been substituted for the original somewhere along the
way. Without a registry, how would anyone ever recognize that there are TWO
or more cars out there with the same number, and where they are? The bad guys
could forge 20 with the same number. Two years ago, I discovered that there
were two different BJ8s in Tennessee registered with the same VIN. Although
one of these turned out to have been a mistake (since 1972), nobody would ever
have learned that if the registry didn't already have that number listed when
the owner of the second car tried to register it.
I haven't tried to use BMIHT as a resource, other than to get my BMIHT
certificate. But, are they willing or do they have the capability to be used
as a resource beyond issuing original manufacturing data -- especially without
being paid for the information? Do they help return original driver's
handbooks to the car they originally belonged to? Do they help former owners
or children of owners find their cars today? Do they provide advice to
potential Healey buyers from the vantage point of knowing the history of a
car, or having some details recorded that would help to positively identify it
or its history? I don't think so.
As of today, the BJ8 registry can account for 4,188 individual BJ8s worldwide,
which is almost 25% of total production. Wouldn't it be even better if ALL of
them could be accounted for? Rather than being a source of data that can be
used for illegitimate purposes, I believe the registries can actually
discourage forgeries if it is known that there is a resource to allow positive
identification of the cars as they are NOW, as well as how they WERE.
Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry (http://www.britishcarforum.com/bj8quest.html)
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Rmoment@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Friday, November 15, 2002 5:07 PM
Subject: 100 M issue
I recently sent Perry the following in response to his comment on this
topic.
I thought, after reading a couple of other postings, that the list as a
whole might want to see what I wrote. I copy it all below.
However, there is another issue, perhaps of even greater importance here.
I've heard of a dealer in CA who had a new chassis plate made up that is a
duplicate of another genuine one -- i.e. there are now TWO BN2s (I think
the
original also was a 100M) with the same number. This is a good reason why
having a list available for someone to pour through of what cars had what
numbers is NOT a good idea, as there are many unscrupulous types out there
and they'd just look up what number they needed for an "M" or any other
"special" car that might have high value when finished.
I believe I saw the "fake" BN2 mentioned above here in CO a year or two ago
and it was a good "50-footer". But I don't know how the wrangle over
"ownership" of the chassis number ever shook out.
There is no quick (read, 2-5 day turn around) way to verify 100-Ms. The
info
has to come from BMIHT, and I would vehimently argue against having a source
for the numbers separate from them as their existence depends on usage of
the
facility and services, so circumventing them does us all harm in the long
run. We all need them as a resource to be able to go to.
Roger
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From Marty Filardi <marty_filardi at yahoo.com>
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 05:32:46 -0800 (PST)
Subject: 100M
__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Web Hosting - Let the expert host your site
http://webhosting.yahoo.com
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From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 07:37:38 -0600
Subject: Re: I just invited the high bidder to join our list
In other words, Roger, you would let some guy spend $65,000, or whatever, on
this car and then find out later it's a fake? If there is another source such as
a compiled list, for god's sake, man, let him use it. You know you would use it.
What the hell is the other list for? So someone can say, "I have a secret list
and you can't see it"? There is a dealer here who swears it is authentic and
there are a number of people on this list wh who know a hell of a lot more than
this dealer who seriously question the car.
> I just invited the high bidder on the car in question to join our list. I
>told him
> (her) that there was some lively discussion going on regarding the
>authenticity of
> the car.
>
> Here is your chance, if you believe like Roger that he (she) shouldn't know
>if this
> car is real or not, to tell him, or her, just that. You can come right out
>and say
> that there are two private lists of verified100Ms that could be accessed, but
>he
> (she) doesn't have the right to know.
Now you did it, Bob! You'll never get your super decoder ring nor will you
ever learn
about the secret handshake!! We'll look for you in the BJ8 ranks soon.
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
BJ8 ( in a darned fine registry)
AN5 ( also in a registry or sorts)
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From Magnus Karlsson <492karlsson at telia.com>
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 14:39:14 +0100
Subject: Re: thread types
Magnus Karlsson
SWEDEN
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From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 07:47:17 -0600
Subject: Re: Fw: 100 M issue
> Lest anyone read his comments and conclude that ALL non-BMIHT registries of
> cars (lists of VINs and other data) is a bad thing, I would like to provide a
> dissenting voice. Most of you know by now that the BJ8 registry is a
> subjectclose to my heart. I know, based on the experience of the last 5
>years,
> that having a collection of identifying details and ownership history on as
>many
> cars as possible has proven to be a valuable and a positive thing to the
>Healey
> community.
Before I forget it, thanks again, Steve, for all the work and the information.
It
is a valuable resource and is used in an intelligent manner for the good of all
interested Healey people.
> The registries can provide a source of information to Healey owners and
> enthusiasts that is not available anywhere else.
Everyone ought to operated their personal registries in such a fashion, I think.
> The bad guys who are willing to forge a new VIN plate for a car will find a
> way to discover the "legitimate" numbers, if it's important enough for to them
> to do so, whether a list of them exists outside BMIHT or not.
It wouldn't take 10 minutes and we all know it.
Keep up the good work!!!!!
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
BJ8 (in the BJ8 registry)
AN5 (in some super secret registry)
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From Magnus Karlsson <492karlsson at telia.com>
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 14:43:56 +0100
Subject: Re: thread types
Magnus Karlsson
SWEDEN
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From "Ryan at Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 09:32:29 -0500
Subject: is there a BJ7 registry?
With the BJ7, being a sort of transition year, I'm always glad and a bit
surprised to hear of others who are tackling the same beast!
Ryan
BJ7
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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 07:43:48 -0700
Subject: Re: 100M Authenticity, was: Wow, the list got quiet
Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
..
----- Original Message -----
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, November 15, 2002 2:44 PM
Subject: Re: 100M Authenticity, was: Wow, the list got quiet
> Just communicated with a guy that had scrapped out a rusted out Ohio100M
and
> the "ID was transferred" to a BN2 frame resurrected from a Sacramento,
> California, junkyard.
>
> Steve M
> (and "Brutus")
>
> In a message dated 11/15/02 1:19:41 PM Pacific Standard Time,
rdavies@cox.net
> writes:
>
> << I was at my mechanics today and he mentioned that he once had a patron
that
> asked him to "convert" a 1004 to a 100M for his personal use. After
making
> the changes he was furious to learn that the guy sold it at auction as a
> 100M. It happens.
> Ron >>
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From Rmoment at aol.com
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 09:59:03 EST
Subject: Re: Fw: 100 M issue
> Lest anyone read his comments and conclude that ALL non-BMIHT registries of
> cars (lists of VINs and other data) is a bad thing, I would like to provide
> a
> dissenting voice.
I guess I might have spoken a bit strongly about use of BMIHT. Yes,
registries are good and can be used to help avoid fraud.
I guess what I am concerned about is having a private list to provide the
same info that BMIHT does. I do think it would be helpful, and harmless to
BMIHT's existence, if a Registry could answer a specific question about a
specific number, but only if the request seemed legit. Such as, "I'm, told
that a car I'm looking to buy is a factory "M" and it has chassis and/or body
number xxxxxx -- is this true?"
What I would want to avoid is any published listing that people could have to
look through.
I think the Registries can also be a great service if their "keepers" set
them up in a way that allows changes and trends, especially with respect to
colors and color combinations, to be identified. It is not possible to asi
BMIHT what the body/chassis number was on the first Goldn Beige Metallic BJ8,
yet that would be of interest to know. Also, how many of these cars were
trimmed in Red as opposed to Black.
So my appologies for sounding a bit pendantic. However, please do consider
that BMIHT needs to be supported and it is not, in my opinion, a good thing
when folks try to looks for ways to avoid paying them the $40for a
certificate just so a few $$ can be saved.
Roger
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From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 10:35:34 EST
Subject: Re: thread types
This is a very common mistake but the bolt that screws into the generator
that you think is UNC is actually BSW and the reason for the mistake is that
with one exception, all UNC bolts have the same threads per inch as BSW. The
only difference is that UNC/UNF fasteners have a 60 degree angle between the
threads while BSW/BSF are 55 degrees by definition.
I have brought this up on the list before regarding my '60 Bugeye and the
fact that there is one BSW fastener on the car and it's the tapped hole on
the front case of the generator. If the bolt is original to the car you will
see that the head will not have the small circular depression in it
delineating it as a Unified fastener versus a Whitworth Fastener. The only
other way to tell is to use a thread gage but as I've stated it's difficult
since the TPIs are the same.
Additionally you find that all of the small screws in the Smiths instruments,
SU components and Lucas electrical equipment are either BA or Whitworth.
Cheers,
Curt Arndt
In a message dated 11/16/02 5:43:33 AM Pacific Standard Time,
492karlsson@telia.com writes:
<< As far as I know the only bolts on my BJ7 that are not UNF are the UNC bolt
that screws into the generator and holds the adjusting link and the two BSF
bolts that hold the fuel pump. >>
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 07:40:40 -0800
Subject: Re: Fw: 100 M issue
Supposedly, a mechanic/restorer was requesting certificates from the
BMIHT for a range of VINs--fishing for VINs with the telltale "shipped
with louvered bonnet"--indicating a factory M. He built and sold 3 of
them with the same VIN to unsuspecting buyers.
If I recall correctly, the fraud was exposed when (more than one of) the
owners tried to register the same VIN with Bill.
I was told that when the buyers found out they sued him and won; little
consolation for the disappointment they must have felt. I've also heard
the BMIHT will no longer provide a "batch" of certs, though I suppose
you could still request a range of VINs individually.
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> In a message dated 11/16/2002 4:53:20 AM Mountain Standard Time,
> byers@cconnect.net writes:
>
>
> > Lest anyone read his comments and conclude that ALL non-BMIHT registries of
> > cars (lists of VINs and other data) is a bad thing, I would like to provide
> > a
> > dissenting voice.
>
> I guess I might have spoken a bit strongly about use of BMIHT. Yes,
> registries are good and can be used to help avoid fraud.
>
> I guess what I am concerned about is having a private list to provide the
> same info that BMIHT does. I do think it would be helpful, and harmless to
> BMIHT's existence, if a Registry could answer a specific question about a
> specific number, but only if the request seemed legit. Such as, "I'm, told
> that a car I'm looking to buy is a factory "M" and it has chassis and/or body
> number xxxxxx -- is this true?"
>
> What I would want to avoid is any published listing that people could have to
> look through.
>
> I think the Registries can also be a great service if their "keepers" set
> them up in a way that allows changes and trends, especially with respect to
> colors and color combinations, to be identified. It is not possible to asi
> BMIHT what the body/chassis number was on the first Goldn Beige Metallic BJ8,
> yet that would be of interest to know. Also, how many of these cars were
> trimmed in Red as opposed to Black.
>
> So my appologies for sounding a bit pendantic. However, please do consider
> that BMIHT needs to be supported and it is not, in my opinion, a good thing
> when folks try to looks for ways to avoid paying them the $40for a
> certificate just so a few $$ can be saved.
>
> Roger
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From skip <tfsbj7 at mindspring.com>
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 10:38:54 -0500
Subject: Re: Frame metal thickness
As I recall: Those prefering to keep the 15 guage metal liked
it because some of the handling properties of the Healey involve
some degree of frame flex.
-skip-
Steve Byers wrote:
>
> Hi, Troy -
>
> The frame rail metal thickness is 0.075" (14 gauge).
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From cyfied <cyfied at uslink.net>
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 09:54:54 -0600
Subject: Re: 100M
Rick Ollah
54 BN1 (well most of it)
Marty Filardi wrote:
> This situation has gone on throughout the collector
> car industry for ever, and it is a buyer beware
> situation. I do not think any buyer is going to pay
> premium prices for a "rare" car of any make without
> checking out its authenticity with paper work. If they
> do they are dumb, nieve, or basically have more money
> then they know what to do with. It is a self
> correcting situation in my opinion. The few buyers
> that get "taken" I feel really sorry for and the
> sellers should rot in hell. Where did the " used car
> salesman" re: liar, come from anyway? I have had more
> car salesmen, and collector car salesmen lie right to
> my face over the years. I just smile, make some joke,
> and walk away. I am not into changing them or
> confronting them. I may do on the other hand ask for
> "proof" and explain to them the knowledge that I may
> have on a particular make. It is a great exchange of
> information, and often one may learn a few things
> about a particular make, and make good connections
> with people. The cars that are documented with paper
> work are worth far more than the ones without, and the
> more paperwork, the more they are worth. Any savvy
> collector knows this, don't you think? Who would buy a
> "rare" car on ebay, sight unseen, for a premium price
> anyway? By the way, I know where a real 66 Cobra that
> was crashed, was burried by a rich guy because the
> family did not know what to do with the car. They live
> on an island off the right coast. It is in their yard.
> No Lie, a friend of mine and I have talked about
> digging it up for years, but as we get older, are
> backs just hurt too much. This is a true story, The
> car was burried in 72 when they were not worth too
> much. Ciao, Marty
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Web Hosting - Let the expert host your site
> http://webhosting.yahoo.com
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From "Classic-Car-World Ltd" <enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk>
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 16:19:39 -0000
Subject: Looking for suitable images
If you would like a T-Shirt, mug or mouse mat etc. with your own classic car
on it simply send an image through and we will upload it to our site. Please
note images should be 1240 X 1240 and a minimum resolution of 150dpi.
Thank you for your interest
Tom
Tom McCay
Classic-Car-World Ltd
Tel: 01522 888178
Fax: 0870 7059115
E-mail: enquiries@classic-car-world.co.uk
URL: www.classic-car-world.co.uk
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 11:21:17 EST
Subject: 100M Authenticity--another view
Exactly right--the result is (or should be) the same--and it is an
interesting footnote that the marketing of part number P.280 (the Le Mans
Tuneup kit described in the "Special Equipment and Tuniing Instructions"
handbook) preceded the introduction of the M-cars. In other words, BN1's
were being modified before the kit's changes were subsequently incorporated
into a "factory-made" BN2 car.
To my mind, the exclusiveness (read that "more money") that has attached to
the M's stems not from any performance difference but from the claim to
factory labeling as opposed to a car that has "merely" been modified by an
owner or dealer (although some Le Mans kits were supposedly installed at the
factory to existing cars for friends of DMH--but that is another story.)
There are 6 cars in the current Hemmings that are advertised as "factory-M's.
Some wags predict that unmodified or stock 100's are getting rare and soon
the M's will be unconverted back to stock to take advantage of this market
shortage--we'll see!
Some think that the M was introduced because the Healeys were enjoying such
success in the marketing of the so-called "Le Mans kit". Another
interesting, if perhaps cynical explanation, is that they had about 640 cars
sitting around that they couldn't move, and knowing of the impending
introduction of the 100-6, DMH created the M car to get rid of them: "The
collector's edition".... But I think that it begs the question to say that
because there is no mechanical difference, the price differential is
unjustified. It might be unjustified but people will always pay for the
cache of exclusivity--even if they know or suspect that it is fake (Look at
all the knock-off Rolexes that float around).
In the case of my car, the Le Mans kit was installed by the first owner in
1957, and he probably received some help from Phil Styles who was the service
manager (and who also raced 100's at Sebring) for the dealer, Ship and Shore
Motors in West Palm Beach. I am always careful to tell folks who I think
might understand all of the above that the car is Le Mans--that it is NOT an
M--but there are those who would rather think that they are looking at an M
and sometimes it is easier to simply save the lengthy explanation and nod in
agreement!
Best--Michael Oritt, 1955 100 Le Mans (NOT an M)
In a message dated 11/16/02 9:47:04 AM Eastern Standard Time,
frogeye@swcp.com writes:
> I'm having some difficulty differentiating the difference
> between the factory installing some performance parts and some cosmetic
> changes or having a dealership or a private owner doing them. The point
> that Mr. Healey was making was one of performance and appearance. A
> conversion. The result was the same regardless. If you guys want to put a
> price premium on one that came from the "Factory" ( and it's my impression,
> that even those weren't done "on the line" ) versus another version then,
> well OK, it's your bragging right and money.........
> Having said that...there is a notable difference about lying who made the
> changes...
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From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 17:04:35 +0000
Subject: Re: Fw: 100 M issue
All the best
>Hello, Healeyphiles --
>
>Recognizing that Roger's remarks are probably only intended for 100Ms and
>other "rare" Healeys.....
>
>Lest anyone read his comments and conclude that ALL non-BMIHT registries of
>cars (lists of VINs and other data) is a bad thing, I would like to provide a
>dissenting voice. Most of you know by now that the BJ8 registry is a subject
>close to my heart. I know, based on the experience of the last 5 years, that
>having a collection of identifying details and ownership history on as many
>cars as possible has proven to be a valuable and a positive thing to the
>Healey community. It allows us to gain some insights into the original
>production of the cars, how they are configured and distributed today, as well
>as to be of help to owners who have occasion to ask questions about their own
>car or its true identification. The registries can provide a source of
>information to Healey owners and enthusiasts that is not available anywhere
>else.
>
>The bad guys who are willing to forge a new VIN plate for a car will find a
>way to discover the "legitimate" numbers, if it's important enough for to them
>to do so, whether a list of them exists outside BMIHT or not. I think the
>lists for these cars have by now already been constructed anyway by those who
>are interested. The range of VINs for other models is already published (in
>Clausager, for one) and is available to anybody.
>
>BMIHT knows that ABC123 is a legitimate VIN for a 100M, but they aren't
>keeping up with who owns it or where it is. Nor do they know that engine X
>and/or gearbox Y has been substituted for the original somewhere along the
>way. Without a registry, how would anyone ever recognize that there are TWO
>or more cars out there with the same number, and where they are? The bad guys
>could forge 20 with the same number. Two years ago, I discovered that there
>were two different BJ8s in Tennessee registered with the same VIN. Although
>one of these turned out to have been a mistake (since 1972), nobody would ever
>have learned that if the registry didn't already have that number listed when
>the owner of the second car tried to register it.
>
>I haven't tried to use BMIHT as a resource, other than to get my BMIHT
>certificate. But, are they willing or do they have the capability to be used
>as a resource beyond issuing original manufacturing data -- especially without
>being paid for the information? Do they help return original driver's
>handbooks to the car they originally belonged to? Do they help former owners
>or children of owners find their cars today? Do they provide advice to
>potential Healey buyers from the vantage point of knowing the history of a
>car, or having some details recorded that would help to positively identify it
>or its history? I don't think so.
>
>As of today, the BJ8 registry can account for 4,188 individual BJ8s worldwide,
>which is almost 25% of total production. Wouldn't it be even better if ALL of
>them could be accounted for? Rather than being a source of data that can be
>used for illegitimate purposes, I believe the registries can actually
>discourage forgeries if it is known that there is a resource to allow positive
>identification of the cars as they are NOW, as well as how they WERE.
>
>
>Happy Healeying!
>Steve Byers
>HBJ8L/36666
>BJ8 Registry (http://www.britishcarforum.com/bj8quest.html)
>Havelock, NC USA
>
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
> From: Rmoment@aol.com
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Sent: Friday, November 15, 2002 5:07 PM
> Subject: 100 M issue
>
>
> I recently sent Perry the following in response to his comment on this
>topic.
> I thought, after reading a couple of other postings, that the list as a
> whole might want to see what I wrote. I copy it all below.
>
> However, there is another issue, perhaps of even greater importance here.
> I've heard of a dealer in CA who had a new chassis plate made up that is a
> duplicate of another genuine one -- i.e. there are now TWO BN2s (I think
>the
> original also was a 100M) with the same number. This is a good reason why
> having a list available for someone to pour through of what cars had what
> numbers is NOT a good idea, as there are many unscrupulous types out there
> and they'd just look up what number they needed for an "M" or any other
> "special" car that might have high value when finished.
>
> I believe I saw the "fake" BN2 mentioned above here in CO a year or two ago
> and it was a good "50-footer". But I don't know how the wrangle over
> "ownership" of the chassis number ever shook out.
>
> There is no quick (read, 2-5 day turn around) way to verify 100-Ms. The
>info
> has to come from BMIHT, and I would vehimently argue against having a source
> for the numbers separate from them as their existence depends on usage of
>the
> facility and services, so circumventing them does us all harm in the long
> run. We all need them as a resource to be able to go to.
>
> Roger
>
--
John Harper
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From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 17:24:45 +0000
Subject: BN2M
This subject of authentic lists in private hands seems to come up from
time to time but I wonder if such things actually exist.
This information could only have come from two sources. Either BMC who
dispatched the cars to Warwick for conversion or the Healey Motor
Company who carried out the conversions.
In the former case the only records that are known to survive are those
held by BMIHT. These are microfiches of the original production records
that survived at BMC Service Cowley and were about to be thrown out when
a collegue of mine thought that they ought to be sent to the Heritage
people. As far as I am aware these records at BMIHT only show that a
louvered bonnet was fitted before the car left Longbridge. This is a
fairly good indicator that the car was converted but not a guarantee as
we read in Geoff Healey's book
The other records could have come from the Donald Healey Motor Company.
It is rumoured that such records might have ben sold to a third party.
If so what has become of them? Surely they are of no value to anybody
unless used!
So as I said at the beginning, are there such things as authentic
records or is it all a myth?
All the best
>"R.Denton, Auburn Design Group" wrote:
>
>In other words, Roger, you would let some guy spend $65,000, or whatever, on
>this car and then find out later it's a fake? If there is another
>source such as
>a compiled list, for god's sake, man, let him use it. You know you
>would use it.
>What the hell is the other list for? So someone can say, "I have a secret list
>and you can't see it"? There is a dealer here who swears it is authentic and
>there are a number of people on this list wh who know a hell of a lot more than
>this dealer who seriously question the car.
>
>> I just invited the high bidder on the car in question to join our
>>list. I told him
>> (her) that there was some lively discussion going on regarding the
>>authenticity of
>> the car.
>>
>> Here is your chance, if you believe like Roger that he (she)
>>shouldn't know if this
>> car is real or not, to tell him, or her, just that. You can come
>>right out and say
>> that there are two private lists of verified100Ms that could be
>>accessed, but he
>> (she) doesn't have the right to know.
>
> Now you did it, Bob! You'll never get your super decoder ring nor
>will you ever learn
>about the secret handshake!! We'll look for you in the BJ8 ranks soon.
>
>--
>Larry Dickstein
>Lone Jack, MO
>
>BJ8 ( in a darned fine registry)
>AN5 ( also in a registry or sorts)
>
--
John Harper
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From foxriverkid <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 13:00:27 -0800
Subject: ebay car
PhilNeweyCars@aol.com wrote:
> BOTH MEAN THE SAME, PHIL.
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From "R. Poague" <rapoague at gte.net>
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 10:06:05 -0800
Subject: Re: is there a BJ7 registry?
As of February 2002, Thomas L. Blaskovics at u2347@wvnvm.wvnet.edu was
building a BJ7 registry. He sent me a form to fill out, which I did and sent
it back to him. I don't know if he is still doing this or if he still has
the same address, but it's worth a shot. Perhaps someone else can verify
this.
Bob P.
BJ7
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ryan@Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, November 16, 2002 6:32 AM
Subject: is there a BJ7 registry?
> At one time, someone was putting together a BJ7 registry. Did this ever
> happen. Not that our cars are that unique, but as I'm sure we all have
> discovered, there is a certain kinship that develops between people who
are
> restoring the same car type.
>
> With the BJ7, being a sort of transition year, I'm always glad and a bit
> surprised to hear of others who are tackling the same beast!
>
> Ryan
> BJ7
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 13:21:58 EST
Subject: Re: ebay car x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
> BOTH MEAN THE SAME, PHIL.
Translation: Caveat Emptor...
Best--Michael
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From "craig" <craigeboy at sprynet.com>
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 10:22:06 -0800
Subject: re: 1960 3000 BT7
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 13:24:54 -0500
Subject: Fw: is there a BJ7 registry?
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666 (AND HBJ7L/20111)
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Ryan@Ledwith
To: Healey List
Sent: Saturday, November 16, 2002 9:32 AM
Subject: is there a BJ7 registry?
At one time, someone was putting together a BJ7 registry. Did this ever
happen. Not that our cars are that unique, but as I'm sure we all have
discovered, there is a certain kinship that develops between people who are
restoring the same car type.
With the BJ7, being a sort of transition year, I'm always glad and a bit
surprised to hear of others who are tackling the same beast!
Ryan
BJ7
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 13:44:04 -0500
Subject: Metallic Golden Beige BJ8s (was: 100M issue)
"I think the Registries can also be a great service if their "keepers" set
them up in a way that allows changes and trends, especially with respect to
colors and color combinations, to be identified. It is not possible to ask
BMIHT what the body/chassis number was on the first Golden Beige Metallic BJ8,
yet that would be of interest to know. Also, how many of these cars were
trimmed in Red as opposed to Black."
_______________________
The BJ8 Registry is set up to contain a running record of the original and
subsequent configurations (color, trim, top, etc.), as well as a continuous
ownership record (or as much as is known or can be reconstructed) for each
car. Copies of BMIHT certificates are solicited both to document the
original configuration as well as for convenience in comparisons and sorting
statistitics. To date, the registry has a record of almost 25% of total BJ8
production (4,188 of 17,712) , and of those a copy of the BMIHT certificate
for about 10% of them (410).
According to John Wheatley's book, the first Metallic Golden Beige BJ8 (that
is the way the colo(u)r is always given on the BMIHT certs) was HBJ8/40190 (RH
drive). The BMIHT certificate for that car gives the body number as 85051,
however the cert does not specify that the car was the first. Of the 101
cars recorded as MGBs in the regisry, there are none earlier than that chassis
or body number. HBJ8/40190 was built 12 - 16 January 1967, and was
despatched to Kennings Car Mart, Ltd., London NW 1.
The last MGB was HBJ8/43025G (also RH drive), which is also the next to last
BJ8 chassis number, built 1 - 16 November 1967. It was despatched to the
Donald Healey Motor Company, Ltd., Warwick.
Of the MGB cars for which I have a BMIHT record, the trim colors are
distributed as follows:
Red Leather: 1
Red Ambla: 7
Black Leather: 1
Black Ambla: 49
Obviously, the more certificates that can be assembled in the registry, the
more accurate the real picture becomes.
If anyone is interested in a complete list of MGBs currently included in the
registry, along with body numbers when available, let me know and I'll send
it. The file is Excel.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
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From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 13:52:58 -0500
Subject: BJ8 registry - was RE: 100 M issue
How many of those 4,188 BJ8's are in driveable condition?
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Steve Byers
Sent: Saturday, November 16, 2002 6:49 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Fw: 100 M issue
As of today, the BJ8 registry can account for 4,188 individual BJ8s
worldwide,
which is almost 25% of total production. Wouldn't it be even better if ALL
of
them could be accounted for? Rather than being a source of data that can
be
used for illegitimate purposes, I believe the registries can actually
discourage forgeries if it is known that there is a resource to allow
positive
identification of the cars as they are NOW, as well as how they WERE.
Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry (http://www.britishcarforum.com/bj8quest.html)
Havelock, NC USA
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From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 13:24:29 -0600
Subject: Re: BN2M
> This subject of authentic lists in private hands seems to come up from
> time to time but I wonder if such things actually exist.
All I know of 100's. M's, LeMans, etc. is what is see and what is published. I
don't
know about these things......I don't even suspect.
I was referring to the Concours Registries here in the US. They are rumored to
exist but where is open to speculation. I've participated in the judging of
cars for
several years. I was awarded a Gold Level certificate for my Bugeye. I was
sent a
nice certificate and given the opportunity to buy a nice medallion. All is fine
except that I don't know anything else about the registry and the information is
impossible to get. I have not yet tried a congressional subpoena but, I
suspect, it
would be thwarted as well.
I don't know who else might have a Bugeye in the registry or anything else-they
will
not release any information at all. That includes numbers. They cite security
precautions. I didn't ask for someone's bank account number or garage door
opener
code; all I wanted to know is how many gold level Bugeyes there are. I still
don't
have a definitive answer. You know: computer problems, work schedules, why do
you
need to know?, etc. It's all top secret supported by the big three Healey
organizations in the US. What they do or why they're there is open to
speculation.
My personal opinion is that such registries should be more open and publicized.
That would generate some interest and, maybe, more participants. That, of
course,
would dilute the gene pool which is probably why it is such a secret. No
riff-raff
allowed. How I got in is still a mystery!
> Surely they are of no value to anybody unless used!
You hit it right on the head, John! Absolutely worthless except for a few.
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 528 (New census numbers)
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From Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 14:59:21 -0500
Subject: Re: BN2M
> Surely they are of no value to anybody unless used!
You hit it right on the head, John! Absolutely worthless except for a few.
--<
Hi Larry,
I can't speak for the Bugeye registry but it seems to me running one of
these depends alot on the personality of the keeper since there are very
few official rules that govern the maintainence of one!
My experience with Steve Byers has only been a positive one. He has been a
tireless worker and I for one am glad he is the registry keeper of my
particular model.
Everything that I have requested in the form of BJ8 information he has sent
me (less personal information due to privacy).
Hopefully, the other registry keepers are as forthright with the
information they have worked hard to collate.
Might I suggest JUST ASK!
'66 BJ8
HBJ8L36081
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From Grglmn at cs.com
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 15:05:27 EST
Subject: Re: 100M Authenticity, was: Wow, the list got quiet
> "Well, frankly, I'm having some difficulty differentiating the difference
> between the factory installing some performance parts and some cosmetic
> changes or having a dealership or a private owner doing them. The point
> that Mr. Healey was making was one of performance and appearance. A
> conversion. The result was the same regardless. If you guys want to put a
> price premium on one that came from the "Factory" ( and it's my impression,
> that even those weren't done "on the line" ) versus another version then,
> well OK, it's your bragging right and money.........
> Having said that...there is a notable difference about lying who made the
> changes..."
>
>
Well said Dave!
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 15:07:31 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ8 registry - was RE: 100 M issue
I have made no attempt to keep a record of the actual condition of each car
beyond just "in existence" or "scrapped". The driving or restoration status
could change from one month to the next and would be impossible to keep up
with. I can say that 21 of the 4,188 have been said to be
scrapped/destroyed/parted out/no longer existing. This can get a little
confusing, though, when the car that left the factory was 90% scrapped, but
another car is using the original VIN. The scrapped cars are, of course,
harder to identify now than those that survive. So many of them have gone to
the junkyard without any record of them.
Steve
----- Original Message -----
From: Peter Schauss
To: Steve Byers ; healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Saturday, November 16, 2002 1:52 PM
Subject: BJ8 registry - was RE: 100 M issue
Steve,
How many of those 4,188 BJ8's are in driveable condition?
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Steve Byers
Sent: Saturday, November 16, 2002 6:49 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Fw: 100 M issue
As of today, the BJ8 registry can account for 4,188 individual BJ8s
worldwide,
which is almost 25% of total production. Wouldn't it be even better if ALL
of
them could be accounted for? Rather than being a source of data that can
be
used for illegitimate purposes, I believe the registries can actually
discourage forgeries if it is known that there is a resource to allow
positive
identification of the cars as they are NOW, as well as how they WERE.
Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry (http://www.britishcarforum.com/bj8quest.html)
Havelock, NC USA
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From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 14:47:36 -0600
Subject: Re: BN2M
> I can't speak for the Bugeye registry but it seems to me running one of
> these depends alot on the personality of the keeper since there are very
> few official rules that govern the maintainence of one!
You're right. It does depend on the personalities of the keeper. You need to
keep in mind, however, that I'm not referring to A Bugeye registry. What I am
referring to is THE Austin Healey Concours Registry which caters to all Healeys,
big or small, common or not, etc. This is the big Kahuna (sorry, Gary) of the
various Healey registries. It is sanctioned by the big three Austin Healey
Clubs
in the US yet it is absolutely impossible to get any information out of them.
Nothing, nada, zip, zilch, zero-nothing! They cite security precautions, among
other things. Odd, but there are a handful of people in the registry that know
where every single gold, silver, or bronze award winner lives. They know where
I
live but I can't get any information out of them. Nothing but secrecy,
problems,
and attitudes.
> My experience with Steve Byers has only been a positive one.
Absolutely right! No secrecy, problems, or attitudes.
> He has been a tireless worker and I for one am glad he is the registry keeper
> of my
> particular model.
Me, too. I like him so well that I got him on the front page of the Lone Jack
Newstand (the weekly paper) last summer!
>
> Everything that I have requested in the form of BJ8 information he has sent
> me (less personal information due to privacy).
That type of info is what I thought registries were for. Who knows what the
Concours Registry is for? Anyone?
>
> Hopefully, the other registry keepers are as forthright with the
> information they have worked hard to collate.
> Might I suggest JUST ASK!
I tried that 5 or 6 times. Nothing! Too busy, etc.
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
HBJ8 40001 and Steve knows about it!!!
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From "coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 13:14:14 -0800
Subject: The rest of the story...
The car was sold to a television "celebrity" in the LA area for $36k. This
of course means nothing to us since who knows what those folks down there
would do with their money if they didn't have 4 wheeled toys to buy. I
guess what it means is that we have another celebrity driving a Healey in
tinsletown. The more the merrier I guess. Oh, I asked the name of the
"celebrity" and my friend said that as part of the term of sale he wasn't
allowed to divulge the buyer's name.
Cheers
Coop ('66 BJ8)
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 13:33:09 -0800
Subject: Re: 100M Authenticity, was: Wow, the list got quiet
Plus, the Ms were converted at the Healey shop, not at the factory, and are
thus a surviving link to Healeydom (and somewhat more useful than a factory
brick ;)
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
>
> > "Well, frankly, I'm having some difficulty differentiating the difference
> > between the factory installing some performance parts and some cosmetic
> > changes or having a dealership or a private owner doing them. The point
> > that Mr. Healey was making was one of performance and appearance. A
> > conversion. The result was the same regardless. If you guys want to put a
> > price premium on one that came from the "Factory" ( and it's my impression,
> > that even those weren't done "on the line" ) versus another version then,
> > well OK, it's your bragging right and money.........
> > Having said that...there is a notable difference about lying who made the
> > changes..."
> >
> >
>
> Well said Dave!
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From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 16:38:48 EST
Subject: Re: The rest of the story...
Rick
In a message dated 11/16/02 5:18:22 PM, coop1@dnai.com writes:
<<Oh, I asked the name of the
"celebrity" and my friend said that as part of the term of sale he wasn't
allowed to divulge the buyer's name.
Cheers
Coop ('66 BJ8)>>
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From Jonathan and Carole Quandt <fourqz at earthlink.net>
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 14:16:08 -0800
Subject: new wiring harness 100-4
no cheers today,
Jonathan Quandt
Northern California
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From robert m bowie <deemi at juno.com>
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 17:22:28 -0800
Subject: Fw: Interesting item on eBay web site item#1872373633: 1959
Bob Bowie in Maine
Proud owner of Healey 100's and Morgan Super Sports.
Subject: Interesting item on eBay web site item#1872373633: 1959 Austin
Healey 3000 early solid car
1959 Austin Healey 3000 early solid car
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1872373633
Item Description:
Chassis number HBT7L/330 one of the very first 3000 MKI series
Austin-Healey cars Engine number is 29DRUH/379 body number 292 original
options from BMIHT certificate (included with car) Black with red trim
black top, wire wheels , OD heater adj steering , ivory white hardtop
(not with it!) laminated windscreen and roadspeed tires. it has disc
brakes, not drums.
LHD, original sent to american market where it lived in Maine for
most of its first 40 years of life. Car was disassembled for
restoration by the previous owner in the 70's. Solid original
floorboards -need new inner and outer sills While the car is mostly
complete there are things missing -if its not in the photos it not there
. Glass is good -we also put in a battery and fed fuel to the carbs -it
started (last fall) there is no gas tank or seat bottoms -perhaps the
previous owner needed those . most of what I have been doing is
completing missing parts -these are in the photos .
Its British. It runs- frame looks fine and is mechanically there .
Odometer shows 32000 miles but one can see its a 100-4 guage so the
previous owner replaced that. Data plate is not on the firewall, but do
have the bill of sale from prior owner and numbers match otherwise as
well as options colors etc. Clark spares can make one.
Also included will be documents from bills of sale in past etc. A
healey with a good history. Sale only because of other vehicles and
space issues.
Shipping by buyer, please, will help load. This should go to a healey
owner that knows why an early 3000 is rare.
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 17:37:36 -0500
Subject: Re: new wiring harness 100-4
Most folks seem to think that British Wiring is the place to get a new
harness.
20449 Ithaca Road, Olympia Fields, IL 60461/Tel: (708) 481-9050.
http://www.britishwiring.com
I bought my BJ8 harness from them a few years ago, and am very pleased with
it.
My suggestion would be to make lots of sketches and notes to yourself about
how the various electrical components are connected to the wiring (what color
wire goes to what for front lights, engine bay, behind the dash, rear lights,
etc.), and how the wiring is routed, including clamping and grounding. Do
this step by step as you are disconnecting everything. It makes it much
easier to put the new one back the way it was without questions or headaches.
Good luck!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Jonathan and Carole Quandt
To: Healeys
Sent: Saturday, November 16, 2002 5:16 PM
Subject: new wiring harness 100-4
I smoked the wiring harness on my BN-2 this morning while attempting to
repair running lights. What distributor has the best wiring harness/best
price? Also, this procedure has to be a major pain! Any advice on where to
begin and what the pitfalls are from someone who's done this already?
no cheers today,
Jonathan Quandt
Northern California
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 17:55:46 -0500
Subject: The Cape
If anyone is interested the building is for sale. Looks to be about
20,000 sq ft.
Can be viewed at:
http://members.rogers.com/magicare/images/View2.jpg
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 17:56:49 EST
Subject: Re: new wiring harness 100-4
> British Wiring is the place to get a new
> harness.
>
Apparently they have two grades--"concours" and "not-concours". The
difference is that one utilizes heavier guage wire than the other (guess
which is which!)
Best--Michael
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From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 16:03:25 -0800
Subject: "Rare Factory LeMans Healey" for sale
(DESCRIPTION AND CLAIMS)
"1956 Austin Healey LeMans, 100/M, - Rare -"
This car appears to have been manufactured in the
month of October 1955. (I know, "titled in year sold")
A total of 4,604 BN2's were produced from August
1955 thru July 1956. Starting with car #228047 and this
car being #229089 it is the 1,042nd BN2 produced.
Twelve months of production, averaging 384 cars per month
this is the 274th BN2 produced in October, 1955.
"Rare factory Le Mans Healey"
"One of 662 ever produced"
Fact is, only 640 "Factory" LeMans/100Ms were produced.
"Sold new in California"
"All numbers match"
Without documentation and/or BMIHT certificate,
how can this claim be valid ?
"In a private collection for 20 years, owned by a Multi
Healey Collector..."
If this is accurate, how can so many errors be portrayed
in the photos of the listing ? .
Contrary to what is purported in description !
Not a very astute collector.
(PHOTOS)
In the photos of this purported "Factory" LeMans/100M..
I find the following genuine "Factory" / After Market Kit
items missing.
1. Metal plaque, (fixed to carburetor cold air box) with 100 flash,
stating,
"This car has been fitted with a Le Mans modification kit".
2. Large flexible cold air hose, (from rear of grille to front of
aluminum cold air box.
3. Small "M" factory wired (or cast integrally) to the 100 flash on the
grille.
Other items observed that appear to be not correct are;
1. Buffer strip between front shroud and splash pan should be black,
not painted body color.
2. Rear reflector lenses should be red with chrome retainer rings,
they appear to be opaque, surrounded by black retainer ring.
3. Engine compartment heater hoses are improperly connected / shut
off valve is missing.
With the above obvious discrepancies in mind, what other latent
faults are there to be found ???
The following are taken from Bill Emerson's book "The Healey Book"
"A complete history of the Austin Healey".
Geoff Healey is quoted "there were 1159, 100Ms produced.....
Graham Robson writes in his book (Austin Healey 100&3000 Series)
"Factory records show 640, 100M cars were built. The balance
- 519 - must therefore have been converted at the dealers or by owners
after delivery......
For more info and pictures of "Factory Built" and "After Market Kit"
LeMans/100M see pages 112 thru 115 of Emerson's book.
Healey-on boys and girls.
Kirk Kvam
62BT7 Tri-Carb
59/60 BN7 (NastyBoy 302Ford)
101mph @ Tahoe
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From Douglas W Flagg <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 20:05:58 -0500
Subject: Re: Starter
Happy Healeying,
Doug
'56 BN2
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From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 17:12:40 -0800
Subject: Re: "Rare Factory LeMans Healey" for sale
And even more obvious is the polished/chrome valve cover.
Typo, left it out in my original mail.
I WANNA SEE YOUR "M" TATTOO
Kirk
----- Original Message -----
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <62BT7@prodigy.net>
Sent: Saturday, November 16, 2002 4:59 PM
Subject: Re: "Rare Factory LeMans Healey" for sale
> And althogh difficult to see for sure, the verticle piece of sheet metal
that
> "divides" the space in front of the radiator seems to be missing--is that
an
> oil cooler in there?
>
> Best--Michael Oritt, 1955 100 Le Mans (NOT an M)
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From Dennis Broughel <brougheldp at earthlink.net>
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 23:46:47 -0500
Subject: Fender Beading
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From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 17:24:45 +0000
Subject: BN2M
This subject of authentic lists in private hands seems to come up from
time to time but I wonder if such things actually exist.
This information could only have come from two sources. Either BMC who
dispatched the cars to Warwick for conversion or the Healey Motor
Company who carried out the conversions.
In the former case the only records that are known to survive are those
held by BMIHT. These are microfiches of the original production records
that survived at BMC Service Cowley and were about to be thrown out when
a collegue of mine thought that they ought to be sent to the Heritage
people. As far as I am aware these records at BMIHT only show that a
louvered bonnet was fitted before the car left Longbridge. This is a
fairly good indicator that the car was converted but not a guarantee as
we read in Geoff Healey's book
The other records could have come from the Donald Healey Motor Company.
It is rumoured that such records might have ben sold to a third party.
If so what has become of them? Surely they are of no value to anybody
unless used!
So as I said at the beginning, are there such things as authentic
records or is it all a myth?
All the best
>"R.Denton, Auburn Design Group" wrote:
>
>In other words, Roger, you would let some guy spend $65,000, or whatever, on
>this car and then find out later it's a fake? If there is another
>source such as
>a compiled list, for god's sake, man, let him use it. You know you
>would use it.
>What the hell is the other list for? So someone can say, "I have a secret list
>and you can't see it"? There is a dealer here who swears it is authentic and
>there are a number of people on this list wh who know a hell of a lot more than
>this dealer who seriously question the car.
>
>> I just invited the high bidder on the car in question to join our
>>list. I told him
>> (her) that there was some lively discussion going on regarding the
>>authenticity of
>> the car.
>>
>> Here is your chance, if you believe like Roger that he (she)
>>shouldn't know if this
>> car is real or not, to tell him, or her, just that. You can come
>>right out and say
>> that there are two private lists of verified100Ms that could be
>>accessed, but he
>> (she) doesn't have the right to know.
>
> Now you did it, Bob! You'll never get your super decoder ring nor
>will you ever learn
>about the secret handshake!! We'll look for you in the BJ8 ranks soon.
>
>--
>Larry Dickstein
>Lone Jack, MO
>
>BJ8 ( in a darned fine registry)
>AN5 ( also in a registry or sorts)
>
--
John Harper
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From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 06:34:20 +0000
Subject: Re: Fender Beading
> Dear List:
> Now that my car has paint on it, I noticed that the fender beading
> has some dings in them and I should really replace them. Do the major
> suppliers get the beading from the same place or is one better than the
> other. Does the beading come with the little folding clips?
> Thanks in advance
> Dennis Broughel..............Bn-4 ........45281
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From cyfied <cyfied at uslink.net>
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 00:39:47 -0600
Subject: Ledgends of Motorsport
Rick Ollah
54 BN1 (well most of it)
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 11:49:48 EST
Subject: Re: 100M Authenticity--another view
> I am by no means an authority on 100-M's, but I was wondering if anyone
> could answer this question for me. I have seen photos in various Healey
> books of "factory 100-M's" with grille badges indicating such with an exta
> letter M after the normal 100. I have never seen this badge in any photo
> of
> the "Le Mans modification kit" suppossedly offered to individuals who
> wished
> to fit these items to their cars. Could this original badge be one
> difference between a "factory" 100-M, and one modified by its owner? Or
> have they already made reproductions of this badge as well?
>
>
Paul--
My car (a Le Mans, NOT an M) came with an "M" letter which is attached to the
grille flash. The attachable "M's" are apparently available from time to
time and have no signifigance as concerns the car's bona fides. In the case
of my car, the "M" stands for "Michael"!
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans (NOT an M)
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From Rmoment at aol.com
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 12:03:03 EST
Subject: Re: 100M Authenticity--another view
> Exactly right--the result is (or should be) the same--and it is an
> interesting footnote that the marketing of part number P.280 (the Le Mans
> Tuneup kit described in the "Special Equipment and Tuniing Instructions"
> handbook) preceded the introduction of the M-cars. In other words, BN1's
> were being modified before the kit's changes were subsequently incorporated
>
> into a "factory-made" BN2 car.
>
I have long held that "genuine" 100Ms included those BN1s that weren't
documented, the documented BN2s, and any cars fitted with the kits referred
to.
The sticky wicket of late is that it is possible to buy the carbs, high
compresion pistons (though, interestingly, these were NOT part of the P.280
kit!) and cam (maybe --- one "new" 100M cam being sold, that I had a chance
to examine along side a NOS 100M cam, had shorter lobes but longer open dwell
time. Definitely not the same cam, but maybe it would work just as well -- I
don't know). The main difference in the "M" distributor from the standard
one is the mechanical advance springs, which are, on a very limited basis,
available (and remember that original BN1 distributors, both standard and
"M", differed a bit in design of the vacuum advance linkage from those used
on BN2s). The heavier anti roll bar can be bought, as well as the louvered
bonnet (though the underside bracing is not done as original) and I think the
cold air box (though again, not exactly as original in the small details).
These "1980s - 200x" vintage "M"s don't, then, have the period-original bits
and, to someone who has not studied Ms in minute detail, will look just the
same.
It is these modern M conversions that I feel should not have the value, or
authenticity, of those built up either as new Ms or using the parts kits that
BMC made available back then (OR, for that matter, using spares that you
could buy from the parts bins to make up the equivalent of a P.280 kit,
though the bits wouldn't have been marketed in a "box" as such -- i.e. they
would still be period-original upgrade parts).
But since it is so difficult for the unknowing to tell the difference, the
build sheet documentation of "louvered bonnet" is the simplest way for
someone to know what the car was supposed to have been. So this has been the
"proof of choice" for years and looks to continue a such. And given all the
counterfeiting efforts that folks will go through, as pointed out by many on
the list, it is still very much buyer beware!
Roger
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From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 12:31:41 EST
Subject: Re: 100M Authenticity--Horse of a Different Color
' 2013. Painting or disguising horses
A person who knowingly and designedly for the purpose of competing for a
purse or premium offered by an agricultural society, corporation or
association within the state, enters or drives a horse or horse kind painted
or disguised, or who for such purpose falsely and fraudulently represents a
horse to be another from what it really is, or who for such purpose knowingly
or designedly enters or drives a horse or horse kind in a class in which it
is not entitled to be entered under the rules of such society, corporation or
association, shall be imprisoned not more than six months or fined not more
than $500.00, or both. (Amended 1981, No. 223 (Adj. Sess.), ' 23.)
BTW, anyone know what kind of paint you use on horses?
Happy Healeying,
Rick
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From Rmoment at aol.com
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 12:34:51 EST
Subject: Re: new wiring harness 100-4
>
> Apparently they have two grades--"concours" and "not-concours". The
> difference is that one utilizes heavier guage wire than the other (guess
> which is which!)
>
When I last saw a sample of their (British Wiring) wiring harness for the 100
it had some significant errors that few would recognize. With Rhode Island
Wiring you can get an EXACT harnes made up, with any idiosyncrancies that
your original might have had.
Here is a list of details and what I've seen as to how they are treated by RI
or BW :
1) Some 100s (I'm talking BN1s, now) had odd brown tracers in various
sections of the main or sub harnesses. I think BW may do all pieces with the
same tracer. RI will do each piece with the tracer you found originally.
Just send them in your old bits and they'll return them when done.
2) Generator (dynamo) field winding wire. This has a "basket weave" or
herringbone pattern of green and yellow (and, for that matter, this same
cloth-covered wire and pattern has also been found on original harnesses for
3000s, even though all the other wires are plastic coated). RI will make the
wire this way. BW has a standard yellow wire with green "tick" tracers.
3) On 100s, all other (than the field winding wire) individual wires had a
4-strand tracer -- that is, if you look at the tracer it appears as a "dash"
at intervals on the wire, and each "dash" mark is made up of three threads.
RI will make the wires with the 4-thread tracer. BWs harness has a 3-thread
tracer, or did on the last one I saw. I've also seen a 1006, BN6, with
cloth covering of the individual wires, that had a 3-thread tracer pattern,
but I don't know if this is true for ALL 100-six cars with individual
cloth-wrapped wires or not. But I've never seen an original 100, BN1 or BN2,
that didn't have the 4-thread tracer (except for the field winding wire noted
above).
4) If you really want authenticity, you need to use your old bullets, forks,
and loop hardware. A BIG job to salvage and transfer them from your
original harness to the new one. It can be done and completes the "period"
look to the wiring. RI will send you your new harness, on special request,
with the hardware unattached but in separate bags. They also have excellent
detailed drawings of each harness section and what clips go on each wire.
The transferring technique you'll have to learn and do yourself (contact me
if you want my suggestions). I think BW only sells their harnesses one way
-- with hardware attached.
5) IF you want to use the new hardware, I believe RIs is a bit closer to
what the original looked like than BWs, but I haven't really checked this
detail for years.
The reason that BW can sell their harneses so much cheaper is that they are
made up in quantity to "standard" designs. RI can sell you one they've made
up based on records they've developed over the years (and I and others have
provided input for this data base), but they also can make up a custom
harness to be sure it is exactly like yours was. This custom hand work costs
money, but I think the results are well worth it. I'm not aware that having
a custom one made up costs any more from RI thaln having them sell you one of
theirs "pre-made". Having them leave the fittings off for you to attach may
give you a small saving.
Remember, if you don't think you need that level of correctness in detail,
then you can save money and go the BW route. But if, years later, you decide
you really want to do the harness over, not only is it a lot of work to pull
out and reinstall, but you lnow have spent the money twice. The point here
is to think out where you want to go with your car beforehand -- it can save
you money in the long run.
Roger
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From "Robert Royer" <robroyer at msn.com>
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 10:14:25 -0800
Subject: Austin Healey values
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
Austin Healey values 092002.JPG]
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of 1
to 5 Conditions Explained.JPG]
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From "Thomas L. Blaskovics" <u2347 at mail.wvnet.edu>
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 13:41:49 -0500
Subject: Registries
-
Thanks
Tom Blaskovics
AHCUSA,ACHA
BJ7 Registry
HBJ7L/22380
Morgantown, WV
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 15:38:44 EST
Subject: Re: 100M Authenticity--Horse of a Different Color
> anyone know what kind of paint you use on horses?
>
>
Morgan colors.
Best--Michael
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From frank filangeri <ffilangeri at juno.com>
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 16:44:18 -0500
Subject: Re: Austin Healey values
Frank
> I have attached the value guidelines from Collector Car & Truck
> magazine,
> Market Guide September 2002. The car's condition is rated from 1 to
> 5, and an
> explanation of the condition rating is also attached. I don't agree
> with the
> prices they list for the BN7 2-seat Tri Carb Healeys - the price
> should be
> higher I think.
> Rob Royer
> Bellevue, WA
> '54 BN1/327 'Vette engine
> Nasty Boys Modified Austin Healey Registry
> www.ntahc.org/modifiedhealeys Car #134
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From "Ryan at Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 16:53:00 -0500
Subject: SU damper oil
Is this normal? I can't remember how slowly they move, since my car hasn't
been on the road for awhile.
Ryan
BJ7
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From "Ryan at Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 16:54:55 -0500
Subject: Throttle Linkage - does anyone have a spare?
Ryan
BJ7
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 17:32:23 -0500
Subject: 2-1/2 Jensen Healeys for sale - California
===================================================
The $2,500 is for both cars and all parts. Aprox 2 and 1\2 cars.
a partial list is:
3 lotus 904 engines
34sp tranys
extra doors
Bonet
bot lid
all new dampers ( spax 14 way ajustable)
New coil springs
all new bushings (full set)
2 windscreens
2 sets of rims
front spoiler
ect: ect list to long for me to type.
The cars are not at this time runing.
One car was to be used as a parts car for the other.
Enuf good parts to build one 97% car with what I have here.
A little more work will give you a 100% car
===================================================
--
John Miller, N4VU
High heels are a device invented by a woman who was tired of being kissed
on the forehead.
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From "Peter Hunt" <peter at hunt.sol.co.uk>
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 22:38:28 -0000
Subject: Re: 100M Authenticity--Horse of a Different Color
Peter & Ann Hunt
Colorado Red '62 BT7 modified.
OEW/IB '63 BJ7 std.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <HealeyRic2@aol.com>; <Rmoment@aol.com>; <frogeye@swcp.com>;
<SMickel950@aol.com>; <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, November 17, 2002 8:38 PM
Subject: Re: 100M Authenticity--Horse of a Different Color
> In a message dated 11/17/02 12:31:41 PM Eastern Standard Time, HealeyRic2
> writes:
>
>
> > anyone know what kind of paint you use on horses?
> >
> >
>
> Morgan colors.
> Best--Michael
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From "Ryan at Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 17:56:34 -0500
Subject: What color are the Air Cleaners?
Ryan
BJ7
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From "Scott H." <austrheamgafun at arczip.com>
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 18:23:46 -0500
Subject: Air Cleaners
Ryan's air cleaner color question reminded me of a question I had for the
list.....My '57 BN4 and its boxes of parts came with a couple of Stellings
chrome air cleaners that I will probably go with since they are nice looking,
and I guess part of me would like to keep the car as how the previous owner
had it equipped many years ago. Does anyone happen to know where to find air
cleaner filters for this style of air cleaner? If K&N makes a size for this,
what size?
Thanks,
Scott Helms
'57 BN4 - ready to hit the road in the spring!!
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From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 18:33:31 EST
Subject: Re: The Cape
Happy Healeying,
Rick
In a message dated 11/16/02 6:59:08 PM, msalter@precisionsportscar.com writes:
<<During a visit to Warwick last week I managed to find what I believe is
"The Cape" works.
If anyone is interested the building is for sale. Looks to be about
20,000 sq ft.
Can be viewed at:
http://members.rogers.com/magicare/images/View2.jpg
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
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From Rmoment at aol.com
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 18:35:28 EST
Subject: Re: What color are the Air Cleaners?
Roger
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From Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 11:00:17 +1100
Subject: BN1 Tailshaft
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From "Donald" <Mk23000 at attbi.com>
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 18:23:06 -0600
Subject: Re: 100M Authenticity--Horse of a Different Color
<<obviously all you North Americans knows that Paint
Horses are a recogised breed in your part of the world. >>
Nope!!! He only knows about Chesapeak Bay oysters, clams and some other
assorted "fish"!!!!
Oh yeah. And a Healey or two<G><G><G>!!!
And my diving board!!
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From Doug Miller <enginem at earthlink.net>
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 17:26:31 -0800
Subject: Gas Tank-BN 2
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From Jonathan and Carole Quandt <fourqz at earthlink.net>
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 17:46:44 -0800
Subject: 100-4 wiring harness resolution
All is well with the world again.
Cheers,
Jonathan Quandt
North Bay
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From bn1 at pacbell.net
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 17:52:40 -0800
Subject: Re: 100M Authenticity--another view
<snip>
> I have long held that "genuine" 100Ms included those BN1s that weren't
> documented, the documented BN2s, and any cars fitted with the kits referred
> to.
>
<snip>
My '53 BN1, body #663, was fitted with the kit by the PO in 1954 in Chicago.
In addition to the PO telling me this, it looks to be confirmed by his
handwritten
notes in the original Service Manual. However, he opted to forgo the louvered
bonnet and retain the original aluminum for weight savings as the car was being
heavily raced. So, is it a M or not a M? ;-)
Bill Barnett
Santa Ana, CA
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 18:00:08 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Gas Tank-BN 2
I'd suggest getting an aluminum tank. They are much
more impervious to corrosion, provided your boot is
well painted and you put some neoprene padding between
the tank and the boot. In addition, Alu tanks weigh
less! Lots of supplier carry them in the US and UK,
try moss, british car specialists, hemphills, AH
Spares in the UK, or Dennis Welch or Cape
International in the UK also.
My preference is for the UK suppliers mostly because
of better price and service quality, but the US
suppliers are ok too.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Doug Miller <enginem@earthlink.net> wrote:
> Hi Listers,
> After 2 unsuccessful attempts to repair my original
> fuel tank I am
> looking for an alternative. I would appreciate any
> experience you have
> on replacement tanks. I am looking for your
> supplier experience and the
> pros and cons of aluminum vs. steel tanks. TIA
> I am in the final (I hope) stages of sorting out
> problems on a rolling
> chassis after 3 years of frame off restoration.
> Newly painted body
> panels get installed next.
> Doug Miller
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 19:41:17 -0800
Subject: Re: Gas Tank-BN 2
I bought a new steel gas tank for my green car (you know which one that is,
but the rest of the List does not, BT7 MK2) from Moss. It arrived w/ one
small dent and big runs in the paint, just like someone else on the List
described. I could not remove the dent, but sanded down the paint,
repainted it, and decided to live w/ it. The connection for the gas line
was at the wrong angle, so I bent it a little.
It works OK, but the pump starts to suck air while there is still over 2
gallons of gas in the tank.
Nuff said.
John Snyder
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Miller" <enginem@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, November 17, 2002 5:26 PM
Subject: Gas Tank-BN 2
> Hi Listers,
> After 2 unsuccessful attempts to repair my original fuel tank I am
> looking for an alternative. I would appreciate any experience you have
> on replacement tanks. I am looking for your supplier experience and the
> pros and cons of aluminum vs. steel tanks. TIA
> I am in the final (I hope) stages of sorting out problems on a rolling
> chassis after 3 years of frame off restoration. Newly painted body
> panels get installed next.
> Doug Miller
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From SERVICAR1 at cs.com
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 23:10:56 EST
Subject: Re: BT7 windshield seal
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From "Ryan at Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 23:27:15 -0500
Subject: tightening tie rods
Maybe the problem is that I did put in an anti-seize compound on the contact
surface of the ball joint and the steering (and idler) arm, so maybe that is
why they don't grip. But with nothing in there, the joints will eventually
freeze solid and make it impossible to separate them down the road. Should I
simply remove the anti-seize compound and just suffer the consequences later.
(I won't be a DPO, since I will never sell the car).
Even before I tried the anti seize stuff I was having problems. Should I just
junk the lock-nuts?
Ryan
BJ7
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From Rmoment at aol.com
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 23:56:22 EST
Subject: Re: tightening tie rods
The side rods should be inserted from the TOP and the tie rod ends from the
UNDERSIDE.
Then, you need to be sure the tapered holes and the tapered "pins" are clean
of paint and can be fit together tightly. If you grease the tapers you
increase the ability of the pin to twist inside the pocket in the arms.
Also, be sure you have the correct nut threads to match those on the pins of
each joint. If the threads jam you won't be able to draw the joint up tight.
The original nuts were slotted with cotter pin keepers. I'm not familiar
with the new parts, but it sounds like when you buy them they come with nyloc
nuts instead. I mention this only so that you can check that you're using
the right bits. If the pins have holes through the threads at the endfs,
then maybe you should use the original slotted nuts and new cotter pins.
I usually force my tapered pins up into the mating holes and hold them
tightly as I run the nut down. I first make sure the nuts thread on smoothly
with no binding. With the slotted nuts I don't encounter any resistance
until the nut contacts the face of the steering arm.
If you have everything oriented correctly, and the nuts are the correct
thread for your pins, but you still can't get the pins to stay in place as
you run the nyloc nut down, as a last resort you might cut small slots into
the ends of the posts and hold them from turning with a screwdriver until
they firm in place from the draw-down pressure.
Roger
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 21:02:23 -0800
Subject: Re: 100-4 wiring harness resolution
-Roland
On Sun, 17 Nov 2002 17:46:44 -0800, Jonathan and Carole Quandt
<fourqz@earthlink.net> wrote:
:: Many thanks to everyone who responded to my smoked harness. In the end, I
:: took the coward's way out, stripped the harness and replaced the offending
:: wire. The car will need a harness, but it now works. The sun was shining
:: today and we motored, for a bit. In reflection, I suggest that anyone with
:: an "old" Healey, one with old wiring they can't read, take the time to check
:: the continuity of the wires before they energize the lighting circuits.
::
:: All is well with the world again.
::
:: Cheers,
::
:: Jonathan Quandt
:: North Bay
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From cyfied <cyfied at uslink.net>
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 23:34:45 -0600
Subject: Re: tightening tie rods
Good Luck
Rick Ollah
54 BN1 (well most of it)
"Ryan@Ledwith" wrote:
> I'm trying to tighten my tie rods but the nuts have nylon inserts so when I
> get to the nylon part, the ball joint turns. I've tried firming them up in the
> joint with extra washers, hoping to set the ball joint firmly in the steering
> arm/idler arm, but when I go back and remove the washers and try tightening
> the nuts, the nylon insert grabs the ball joint and turns it.
>
> Maybe the problem is that I did put in an anti-seize compound on the contact
> surface of the ball joint and the steering (and idler) arm, so maybe that is
> why they don't grip. But with nothing in there, the joints will eventually
> freeze solid and make it impossible to separate them down the road. Should I
> simply remove the anti-seize compound and just suffer the consequences later.
> (I won't be a DPO, since I will never sell the car).
>
> Even before I tried the anti seize stuff I was having problems. Should I just
> junk the lock-nuts?
>
> Ryan
> BJ7
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 23:42:11 -0700
Subject: Re: tightening tie rods
If you can use a wooden block or a pry bar to force the pin into the hole you
should be able to create enough friction to allow the nut to be drawn down.
Bill Lawrence
"Ryan@Ledwith" wrote:
> I'm trying to tighten my tie rods but the nuts have nylon inserts so when I
> get to the nylon part, the ball joint turns. I've tried firming them up in the
> joint with extra washers, hoping to set the ball joint firmly in the steering
> arm/idler arm, but when I go back and remove the washers and try tightening
> the nuts, the nylon insert grabs the ball joint and turns it.
>
> Maybe the problem is that I did put in an anti-seize compound on the contact
> surface of the ball joint and the steering (and idler) arm, so maybe that is
> why they don't grip. But with nothing in there, the joints will eventually
> freeze solid and make it impossible to separate them down the road. Should I
> simply remove the anti-seize compound and just suffer the consequences later.
> (I won't be a DPO, since I will never sell the car).
>
> Even before I tried the anti seize stuff I was having problems. Should I just
> junk the lock-nuts?
>
> Ryan
> BJ7
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From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 01:56:14 EST
Subject: Re: BN1 Tailshaft
Mine is in place. Flange to flange is 20 1/2". Looks like it could compress
1 to 1 1/4 inches, so that makes it 19 1/4 to 19 1/2" compressed.
Regards.
Steve Mickelson
1954 BN1L156610 "Brutus"
Built May 26, 1954
In a message dated 11/17/02 4:01:25 PM Pacific Standard Time,
varley@cosmos.net.au writes:
<< Hi
Can anyone give me the fully compressed flange to flange length of a BN1
Tailshaft.
Regards
Larry Varley >>
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From Magnus Karlsson <492karlsson at telia.com>
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 11:08:12 +0100
Subject: Re: tightening tie rods
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From "Paul Negus" <Paul.Negus at iplbath.com>
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 13:04:08 -0000
Subject: Fuel Pump
I have been using a Facet 'Solid State' pump on my car for several years now
with complete success. Incidentally, one problem that it did cure was fuel
starvation at high engine outputs (eg climbing steep hills) with the original
SU pump. (The BJ8 has a higher output SU so this isn't usually a problem).
Points to consider are:
1. Use the manufacturer's flexible mounting kit. This not only reduces noise in
the cockpit but gives the pump a better life!
2. As said in a previous response, use a filter between tank and pump and a
Purolator or similar fuel pressure regulator.
3. I wired in an extra earth cable direct from pump to Battery Master Switch in
the boot. This gives a more reliable connection than via the mounting hardware,
especially as the flexible mounts are also very good electrical insulators!
4. Whilst you are at it, it's worth mounting an additional on/off switch in the
rear cockpit on the upright panel in front of the "bucket" seats. This can then
act as a theft deterrent.
5. I simply cut the original pipe between tank and SU pump, inserting flexible
fuel piping (with worm-drive hose clips) but keeping the SU in series. It is
possible to use armoured but as these pipes are held, ie clipped, well clear of
road/axle etc I used twin wall flexible (as supplied by Facet). The new pump
will simply pump fuel through the SU. If you want to keep the piping original,
either buy a replacement and cut that or remove the SU and make up suitable
connections.
6. On the earlier cars such as mine, the SU is mounted over the exhaust pipes,
so another advantage of this conversion is that it allows you to move the pump
to the cooler side of the car! I believe that the BJ8's pump is already on the
better side.
The new pump still gives a reassuring regular thump but there are no points to
worry about!
Hope your conversion goes well.
Regards
Paul
Longbridge BN4
------------------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 12:26:47 -0700
From: "Sid Bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
Subject: Fuel pump
I am trying to install a NAPA solid state pump on my 65 BJ8. I would
appreciate any observations or experiences with the process. Mounting,
keeping original pump, flex lines etc.
Thanks,
Sid
----------------------------------------------------------
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From "Ross Maylor" <obiedog at telusplanet.net>
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 06:30:54 -0700
Subject: Production #'s
"A total of 4,604 BN2's were produced from August
1955 thru July 1956. Starting with car #228047 and this
car being #229089 it is the 1,042nd BN2 produced.
Twelve months of production, averaging 384 cars per month
this is the 274th BN2 produced in October, 1955."
So this means an average of 18 cars per day (assuming they took weekends
off).
Is this a correct assumption or did they have weekend shifts in 1955?
What is the production per day of a modern day sports car, ie a
Miata?
Regards
Ross
'58 BN6
'50 J40
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 01:19:43 +1100
Subject: Re: Production #'s
Don't forget that BMC/ Austin made nearly 50,000 Bugeye sprites in about 3
years - not technically all in the one factory - as some were 'assembled' in
Zetland Sydney, and potentially other CKD (knocked down kit) assembly
plants.
Miata production has fluctuated anywhere between 24,000 and 95,000 per Year
during the 1990's - for an average of about 48,000 per year for a decade....
according to this:
http://www.mscw.com/info/mx5sales.htm
Why did you think that Donald Healey always said that the bugeye Sprite was
his favourite Healey of all time? Because it paid the bills. It wasn't about
'cuteness' - it was about a royalty payment per unit sold......
: )
best regards
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ross Maylor" <obiedog@telusplanet.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, November 19, 2002 12:30 AM
Subject: Production #'s
> Gentlemen,
> I was just curious how modern car production compares.
> From Kirk Kvam's email:
>
> "A total of 4,604 BN2's were produced from August
> 1955 thru July 1956. Starting with car #228047 and this
> car being #229089 it is the 1,042nd BN2 produced.
> Twelve months of production, averaging 384 cars per month
> this is the 274th BN2 produced in October, 1955."
>
> So this means an average of 18 cars per day (assuming they took weekends
> off).
> Is this a correct assumption or did they have weekend shifts in 1955?
> What is the production per day of a modern day sports car, ie a
> Miata?
>
> Regards
> Ross
> '58 BN6
> '50 J40
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From SERVICAR1 at cs.com
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 09:24:26 EST
Subject: Re: BT7 windshield seal
Lanny Pace
59 BT7
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 14:56:23 +0000
Subject: Re: 100M Authenticity--Horse of a Different Color
Probably the same kind of paint that cockney street traders were reputed
to use to paint sparrows yellow, in order to sell them as canaries!
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 09:04:47 -0600
Subject: RE: BT7 windshield seal
-----Original Message-----
From: SERVICAR1@cs.com [mailto:SERVICAR1@cs.com]
Sent: Monday, November 18, 2002 8:24 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: BT7 windshield seal
Good morning, I need some help with the procedure in installing the
windshield to scuttle seal on a BT7 any input that you have is greatly
appreciated. The restoration is about 90% finished with about 60% yet to go,
these little things sure take a lot of time. Many thanks.
Lanny Pace
59 BT7
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From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 11:26:52 EST
Subject: Re: BN1 Tailshaft
Just found "propeller shafts" listed in my parts book as follows:
To C. 140204: 21 1/8" long p/n 1B7345
C. 140205- C.E. 221535: 20 3/4" long p/n 1B7379
C.E. 221536 on: 20" long p/n 1B7461
Regards.
Steve
SMickel950@aol.com writes:
<< Hi Larry:
Mine is in place. Flange to flange is 20 1/2". Looks like it could
compress
1 to 1 1/4 inches, so that makes it 19 1/4 to 19 1/2" compressed.
Regards.
Steve Mickelson
1954 BN1L156610 "Brutus"
Built May 26, 1954
varley@cosmos.net.au writes:
<< Hi
Can anyone give me the fully compressed flange to flange length of a BN1
Tailshaft.
Regards
Larry Varley >> >>
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From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 16:57:51 +0000
Subject: Re: tightening tie rods
--
Mark
59 BT7
Carson, CA
-
-
> I'm trying to tighten my tie rods but the nuts have nylon inserts so when I
> get to the nylon part, the ball joint turns. I've tried firming them up in the
> joint with extra washers, hoping to set the ball joint firmly in the steering
> arm/idler arm, but when I go back and remove the washers and try tightening
> the nuts, the nylon insert grabs the ball joint and turns it.
>
> Maybe the problem is that I did put in an anti-seize compound on the contact
> surface of the ball joint and the steering (and idler) arm, so maybe that is
> why they don't grip. But with nothing in there, the joints will eventually
> freeze solid and make it impossible to separate them down the road. Should I
> simply remove the anti-seize compound and just suffer the consequences later.
> (I won't be a DPO, since I will never sell the car).
>
> Even before I tried the anti seize stuff I was having problems. Should I just
> junk the lock-nuts?
>
> Ryan
> BJ7
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
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From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 17:15:18 +0000
Subject: Re: BT7 windshield seal
--
Mark
59 BT7
Carson, CA
-
-
> Good morning, I need some help with the procedure in installing the
> windshield to scuttle seal on a BT7 any input that you have is greatly
> appreciated. The restoration is about 90% finished with about 60% yet to go,
> these little things sure take a lot of time. Many thanks.
>
> Lanny Pace
> 59 BT7
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 11:15:34 -0800
Subject: Re: BN1 Tailshaft
-Roland
On Mon, 18 Nov 2002 11:00:17 +1100, Larry Varley
<varley@cosmos.net.au> wrote:
:: Hi
:: Can anyone give me the fully compressed flange to flange length of a BN1
:: Tailshaft.
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From "Ken Stickle" <kstickle at rochester.rr.com>
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 14:20:28 -0500
Subject: A Little more Help
Also need help in finding a business that is an Interior Fabricator
where they have patterns for a BN6 to upholster leather seats, panels,
carpet, etc. and still not charge an "arm and leg" for the items. The
people that was going to do it is now out of business.
Are there any suggestions, that can be checked out?
Thanks,
Ken, BN6 58
Rochester, NY
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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Ken Stickle" <kstickle@rochester.rr.com>
To: "Healeys@Autox. Team. Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 16:14:18 -0500
Subject: A Little more Help
> Hello everyone!
> Thanks for the assist in obtaining the eyebrow surround ...... Lots of
> suggestions were given and they are being followed up with these ideas.
>
> Also need help in finding a business that is an Interior Fabricator
> where they have patterns for a BN6 to upholster leather seats, panels,
> carpet, etc. and still not charge an "arm and leg" for the items. The
> people that was going to do it is now out of business.
> Are there any suggestions, that can be checked out?
>
> Thanks,
> Ken, BN6 58
> Rochester, NY
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
From: "Ken Stickle" <kstickle@rochester.rr.com>
To: "Healeys@Autox. Team. Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 13:27:53 -0800
Subject: Re: 100-4 wiring harness resolution
http://www.riwire.com/
(posted to Healeys in case someone else wanted to find them and didn't
know how).
-Roland
On Mon, 18 Nov 2002 15:53:28 -0500, dyaarl <dyaarl@attbi.com> wrote:
:: Does Rhode Island have a web site, I will be needing a harness in the
:: near future.
::
:: Thanks Dyaarl
:: BN4
::
:: Roland Wilhelmy wrote:
::
:: >Rhode Island Wiring will create another loom around your harness for
:: >you if you can spare it long enough to send it in.
:: >
:: >-Roland
:: >
:: >On Sun, 17 Nov 2002 17:46:44 -0800, Jonathan and Carole Quandt
:: ><fourqz@earthlink.net> wrote:
:: >
:: >:: Many thanks to everyone who responded to my smoked harness.
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From APPRAISE11 at aol.com
From: "Ken Stickle" <kstickle@rochester.rr.com>
To: "Healeys@Autox. Team. Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 17:49:16 EST
Subject: ebay item 1872985442
mitch
1963 bj7
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Ken Stickle" <kstickle@rochester.rr.com>
To: "Healeys@Autox. Team. Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 07:24:21 -0500
Subject: non-Healey video question
And I didn't even get chastised for the content (yet).
Thanks all,
CB
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From foxriverkid <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Ken Stickle" <kstickle@rochester.rr.com>
To: "Healeys@Autox. Team. Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 19:54:33 -0800
Subject: concours lists.
Gary, you are on the score sheets as the keeper of such information. Why
don't you give the group a list of gold cars by numbers, not names, for
each type of Healey. For example there are 12 BN1, 8 BN2, etc.
Would you kindly do that for us, sir?
Bob Denton
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
From: "Ken Stickle" <kstickle@rochester.rr.com>
To: "Healeys@Autox. Team. Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 17:34:08 -0800
Subject: Re: concours lists. x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Seriously, original is original, even if aging original, and a
concours award is sort of like having a car born again. You know that
in certain important ways, the car was at that moment: 'new'.
-Roland
3rd vice-assistant concours judge once at Tahoe.
got the shirt to prove it ;-)
On Mon, 18 Nov 2002 19:54:33 -0800, foxriverkid
<foxriverkid@earthlink.net> wrote:
:: I am trying to find out how many gold level BN6cars exist in the USA.
::
:: Gary, you are on the score sheets as the keeper of such information. Why
:: don't you give the group a list of gold cars by numbers, not names, for
:: each type of Healey. For example there are 12 BN1, 8 BN2, etc.
::
:: Would you kindly do that for us, sir?
::
:: Bob Denton
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Ken Stickle" <kstickle@rochester.rr.com>
To: "Healeys@Autox. Team. Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 17:45:14 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: A Little more Help
Heritage is a first class shop and their products are
second to none.
If budget is a major concern, I'd try the UK suppliers
where it was more common for people to order factory
leather interiors for their cars. Try
www.ahspares.co.uk for a decent selection at a good
price.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Ken Stickle <kstickle@rochester.rr.com> wrote:
> Hello everyone!
> Thanks for the assist in obtaining the eyebrow
> surround ...... Lots of
> suggestions were given and they are being followed
> up with these ideas.
>
> Also need help in finding a business that is an
> Interior Fabricator
> where they have patterns for a BN6 to upholster
> leather seats, panels,
> carpet, etc. and still not charge an "arm and leg"
> for the items. The
> people that was going to do it is now out of
> business.
> Are there any suggestions, that can be checked out?
>
> Thanks,
> Ken, BN6 58
> Rochester, NY
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From rhss at onecom.com
From: "Ken Stickle" <kstickle@rochester.rr.com>
To: "Healeys@Autox. Team. Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 21:44:03 -0500
Subject: Big Healey Scuttle Shake & Reversing the polarity.
A couple of weeks ago I put a post in asking for help on
lifters and Pistons from MOSS.
I want to thank everybody I learned a lot.
Now I have two other questions the first is on shuttle
shake. I'm in the middle or restoring 1966 BJ8
the vehicle is very solid with no rust in a very tight
front end. I have read a lot about these cars having a
shuttle shake between 50 and 60. (I have Never driven
this car)
I have seen articles on the Web were owners have welded
in bracing and done other things to stop this.
I would like to hear from someone who has done this and
how it is worked and what exactly they did.
Right now the car has no interior and no drivetrain so
it is very easy to work on.
The next question is on polarity the Healey Marque
magazine for March 2001 has a very good article on
reversing polarity written by Alan Hendrix on page 6.
The only thing he does not cover is what to do about the
gas gauge do I change it or leave alone.
Thank you
Bob Sturtevant
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Ken Stickle" <kstickle@rochester.rr.com>
To: "Healeys@Autox. Team. Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 21:45:58 -0500
Subject: Healey wings hood emblem
Anybody out there see the Healey wings hood emblem for the early cars that
just sold on ebay? New from BMC and still in the wrapper.
Sold for $255 US!!! WOW!!!!
Please no flames if you were a bidder or buyer.
Keith Pennell
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From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Ken Stickle" <kstickle@rochester.rr.com>
To: "Healeys@Autox. Team. Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 21:57:09 -0500
Subject: RE: ebay item 1872985442
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of APPRAISE11@aol.com
Sent: Monday, November 18, 2002 5:49 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: ebay item 1872985442
anybody see this car yet? is it the real thing?
mitch
1963 bj7
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From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
From: "Ken Stickle" <kstickle@rochester.rr.com>
To: "Healeys@Autox. Team. Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 22:04:44 -0500
Subject: Hammertone Silver
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From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
From: "Ken Stickle" <kstickle@rochester.rr.com>
To: "Healeys@Autox. Team. Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 22:07:15 -0500
Subject: archives
Carroll
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From HealeyMJ at aol.com
From: "Ken Stickle" <kstickle@rochester.rr.com>
To: "Healeys@Autox. Team. Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 22:07:15 EST
Subject: Re: Austin Healey values
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From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Ken Stickle" <kstickle@rochester.rr.com>
To: "Healeys@Autox. Team. Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 21:31:50 -0600
Subject: need dimension of "distance Pieces" for 61 BT7 shifter
These show as no longer available in the Moss catalog.
Any thoughts on whether I might stack some washers up there to act as a
spacer?
If anyone had these pieces and could part with them, I would pay any
reasonable price.
Thanks,
Brian Collins
Dallas, TX
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Ken Stickle" <kstickle@rochester.rr.com>
To: "Healeys@Autox. Team. Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 20:55:20 -0700
Subject: Re: archives
http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
bjcap wrote:
>
> Can someone please send me the archive url. Not working for me.
>
> Carroll
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From "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
From: "Ken Stickle" <kstickle@rochester.rr.com>
To: "Healeys@Autox. Team. Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 22:57:20 -0500
Subject: Re: concours lists. x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Roland,
I would submit that at that moment, these award winning cars were better
than new!
Scot
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From "Ryan at Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
From: "Ken Stickle" <kstickle@rochester.rr.com>
To: "Healeys@Autox. Team. Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 23:44:07 -0500
Subject: broke a screw in my distributor cap. Help!
Ryan
BJ7
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From "Ryan at Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
From: "Ken Stickle" <kstickle@rochester.rr.com>
To: "Healeys@Autox. Team. Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 23:45:54 -0500
Subject: tach and speedo cables questions
Ryan
BJ7
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Ken Stickle" <kstickle@rochester.rr.com>
To: "Healeys@Autox. Team. Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 22:34:53 -0700
Subject: Re: BT7 windshield seal
The job went very quickly this way.
Bill Lawrence
"Brashear, Jack, N" wrote:
> Hi Lanny, I presume you mean putting a new seal in the bottom channel of the
>WS frame. Just did this on my BT7 Mk2 a couple of months ago. While it
>wasn't all THAT difficult, it was pretty tedious and I coined some new words
>and made up a new dance during the job. Of course, the side WS posts are
>detached and you have a piece of plywood on a couple of saw horses covered
>with a packing quilt, or something, as a work stand. First, make sure the
>channel is perfectly clean. After I got most of the old chunks out with a
>dental pick, I repeatedly pushed a piece of a Brillo pad back and forth with a
>screw driver tip until the channel was shiny. You'll need to watch out of any
>metal barbs or scratches in the channel as they can deal you lots of grief.
>Have a little cup of liquid vegetable oil handy for lubing the channel.
>You'll put in a little oil every couple of inches that the new seal advances.
>The rest is obvious...just keep pulling and shoving and aligning the seal as!
> it enters the channel. It'll take time. Keep a rag handy to wipe the
>veggie oil off your fingers before pulling on the seal. When the seal is
>finally through, leave about 2" excess on both ends. Don't be too quick to
>trim. There's a recess at the base of each WS side post for the new seal to
>enter a short distance. Measure, measure, do a trial installation, measure,
>fit, try, and look carefully before trimming. There ain't no splicing these
>babies together if you cut 'em too short. I put the seal ends ABOVE the side
>post gaskets on my car. I wasn't sure if this was correct but it has worked
>for me. Lotsa luck,
> Jack Brashear
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: SERVICAR1@cs.com [mailto:SERVICAR1@cs.com]
> Sent: Monday, November 18, 2002 8:24 AM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: BT7 windshield seal
>
> Good morning, I need some help with the procedure in installing the
> windshield to scuttle seal on a BT7 any input that you have is greatly
> appreciated. The restoration is about 90% finished with about 60% yet to go,
> these little things sure take a lot of time. Many thanks.
>
> Lanny Pace
> 59 BT7
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Ken Stickle" <kstickle@rochester.rr.com>
To: "Healeys@Autox. Team. Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 23:17:28 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: The Cape
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Michael Salter <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
wrote:
> During a visit to Warwick last week I managed to
> find what I believe is
> "The Cape" works.
>
> If anyone is interested the building is for sale.
> Looks to be about
> 20,000 sq ft.
>
> Can be viewed at:
>
> http://members.rogers.com/magicare/images/View2.jpg
>
>
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Ken Stickle" <kstickle@rochester.rr.com>
To: "Healeys@Autox. Team. Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 23:20:12 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: SU damper oil
This is normal.
The daspot piston has to move slowly up on
acceleration to enrichen the fuel mixture so you get
the power you need - this is the SU's version of an
accelerator pump on a Holley carb....
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- "Ryan@Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com> wrote:
> I put the damper oil in my SU carburetors and they
> now move very slowly up,
> and quicker down. If I push up with my finger it
> takes approx. 5 seconds to go
> all the way up. During operation is it this slow,
> or is there vacuum
> assistance to help it move?
>
> Is this normal? I can't remember how slowly they
> move, since my car hasn't
> been on the road for awhile.
>
> Ryan
> BJ7
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From "Jack Feldman" <qualitas at millenicom.com>
From: "Ken Stickle" <kstickle@rochester.rr.com>
To: "Healeys@Autox. Team. Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 06:02:40 -0600
Subject: RE: Fuel Pump
The recommended way to keep both pumps is to put them in parallel. That way
if one clogs, then the other will still work. They come in several fuel
pressures, and you can get on that is right for your car (3 1/2 lb.) from
J.C. Whitney. DON'T BUY IT FROM MOSS! They charge more than twice the price
than other vendors (NAPA, J.C., etc.). I didn't use the recommended fuel
filter before the pump, but have one in the engine compartment. One minor
thing. The pump runs constantly. It doesn't just fill the bowls and stop as
an SU does.
Get a DPDT (Double Pole, Double Throw) center off switch from Radio Shack. I
chose one with the red handle so I could see it quickly in an emergency. It
isn't an automotive switch so I had to solder the wires to it. You can get a
SPDT center off with tabs that take automotive connectors from there also,
but the handle is black. Note that you won't find the red handle switch in
either the on
line catalog or last years. Each has a different switch pictured, and both
are wrong!
You have to go to the store and look though the parts bin. Leave it to Radio
Shack.
The feed to the SU is a white wire coming off of the fuse block. The switch
center pole goes to the fuse block, the original white wire goes to one side
of the switch. A wire that powers the cube pump goes to the other side of
the switch. Now you can chose either pump, or none at all. I use the center
position for running the carbs dry when storing the car. It would also come
in handy if you have an accident and need to get the fuel supply shut off
quickly.
Jack
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Ken Stickle" <kstickle@rochester.rr.com>
To: "Healeys@Autox. Team. Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 07:31:33 -0500
Subject: RE: Big Healey Scuttle Shake & Reversing the polarity.
You are certainly going to be looking forward to driving your Healey!
My personal experience with scuttle shake has been that it is not a
problem if the car is in good condition, the wheels and tires and true
and balanced and things like brake drums and splines and properly
sorted.
Other listers however have had problems in this area and may be better
able to advise.
The fuel (gas) gauge will not be affected by your polarity change.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of rhss@onecom.com
Sent: 18-Nov-02 9:44 PM
To: Healey Help List
Subject: Big Healey Scuttle Shake & Reversing the polarity.
Big Healey Scuttle Shake & Reversing the polarity.
A couple of weeks ago I put a post in asking for help on
lifters and Pistons from MOSS.
I want to thank everybody I learned a lot.
Now I have two other questions the first is on shuttle
shake. I'm in the middle or restoring 1966 BJ8
the vehicle is very solid with no rust in a very tight
front end. I have read a lot about these cars having a
shuttle shake between 50 and 60. (I have Never driven
this car)
I have seen articles on the Web were owners have welded
in bracing and done other things to stop this.
I would like to hear from someone who has done this and
how it is worked and what exactly they did.
Right now the car has no interior and no drivetrain so
it is very easy to work on.
The next question is on polarity the Healey Marque
magazine for March 2001 has a very good article on
reversing polarity written by Alan Hendrix on page 6.
The only thing he does not cover is what to do about the
gas gauge do I change it or leave alone.
Thank you
Bob Sturtevant
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Ken Stickle" <kstickle@rochester.rr.com>
To: "Healeys@Autox. Team. Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 07:52:48 -0600
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump
Mark
Subject: RE: Fuel Pump
> I sent this to the wrong address at first, but it give me a chance to add
a
> comment.
> I have one of those pumps in each of my cars. They work great, and act as
a
> backup to the ancient SU pumps I have in the cars. The pump on the Healey
is
> over 40 years old, and still going strong.
>
> The recommended way to keep both pumps is to put them in parallel. That
way
> if one clogs, then the other will still work. They come in several fuel
> pressures, and you can get on that is right for your car (3 1/2 lb.) from
> J.C. Whitney. DON'T BUY IT FROM MOSS! They charge more than twice the
price
> than other vendors (NAPA, J.C., etc.). I didn't use the recommended fuel
> filter before the pump, but have one in the engine compartment. One minor
> thing. The pump runs constantly. It doesn't just fill the bowls and stop
as
> an SU does.
>
> Get a DPDT (Double Pole, Double Throw) center off switch from Radio Shack.
I
> chose one with the red handle so I could see it quickly in an emergency.
It
> isn't an automotive switch so I had to solder the wires to it. You can get
a
> SPDT center off with tabs that take automotive connectors from there also,
> but the handle is black. Note that you won't find the red handle switch in
> either the on
> line catalog or last years. Each has a different switch pictured, and both
> are wrong!
> You have to go to the store and look though the parts bin. Leave it to
Radio
> Shack.
>
> The feed to the SU is a white wire coming off of the fuse block. The
switch
> center pole goes to the fuse block, the original white wire goes to one
side
> of the switch. A wire that powers the cube pump goes to the other side of
> the switch. Now you can chose either pump, or none at all. I use the
center
> position for running the carbs dry when storing the car. It would also
come
> in handy if you have an accident and need to get the fuel supply shut off
> quickly.
>
> Jack
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Ken Stickle" <kstickle@rochester.rr.com>
To: "Healeys@Autox. Team. Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 08:01:11 EST
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump
> The recommended way to keep both pumps is to put them in parallel
Apparently there is no check valve in an SU pump, or so I must assume: When
initially installing the NAPA pump I tried two parallel loops, using two "T'"
fittings to create the loops . All ws okay when running on the SU, but when
running on the NAPA pump I experienced fuel starvation, indicating that some
of the fuel was pumping back from the second "T" back thru the SU to the
first "T" and so back again to the NAPA. IOW, the suction of the NAPA was
pulling fuel back thru the SU, and as a result not enough fuel was getting to
the engine at even moderate speeds. When I mounted the pumps in series (as
they remain) I experienced no problems.
Best--Michael Oritt, 1955 00 Le Mans (Not an M)
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From Rmoment at aol.com
From: "Ken Stickle" <kstickle@rochester.rr.com>
To: "Healeys@Autox. Team. Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 08:15:48 EST
Subject: Re: broke a screw in my distributor cap. Help!
>
> Very disappointed. Think I ruined my NOS distributor cap by breaking off a
> screw inside the cap. It was just too tight and the screw top spread then
> snapped. Any suggestions? I'm bitter, but not defeated. Yet.
>
>
I'm assuming you are talking about a 6-cylinder dist. cap. I would suggest
finding a talented machinist and have him drill out the screw. He'll need
to use the hole leading down to the "mushed" slot as a guide to establish a
center into the screw, and follow up with a drill that is SMALLER than the
hole needs to be to re-tap -- take out another screw and check with drill
sizes until you fiind one that goes through easily.
Once you get the screw out, you'll need to retap the hole. BUT, it is likely
a BA thread. You can get BA taps from Namrick in England --
011-44-1273-779864. My guess is it will be a BA4, but best to measure the
OD of the screw you removed to check the hole size and give them the
idimension (body diameter, that is).
>From an old cap you can salvage another screw.
If you know someone with a BA thread gage you can use that to determine the
thread.
BA is very fine and we have nothing in America that is the same. You'll find
these threads on fuel system components and electrical stuff (BA scres hold
the main plate into the distributer body, for example).
Good luck. Once you get the right tools and have a new thread, you'll be
home free. It isn't all that difficult. Just will take some time and
patience.
Roger
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From Rmoment at aol.com
From: "Ken Stickle" <kstickle@rochester.rr.com>
To: "Healeys@Autox. Team. Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 08:20:14 EST
Subject: Re: tach and speedo cables questions
> Any suggestions for lubricating these? Also, are they supposed to be the
> same
> length? My speedo cable is longer, although it is new. Speedo cable has a
> black covering, and distributor cable has a goldish covering. Since the
> only
> one seen is the one from the distributor, what color should this be?
>
That goldish color tach cable sounds like an origianl one. To lube the
cables, just disconnect from the tach (or speedo) head and pull the cable all
the way out. I'd suggest a light grease, but others may know exactly what is
best. Be sure to rotate the cable core as you re-insert it to engage the
square drive end.
The speedo cable should be longer than the tach. It could be original, or a
replacement. Doesn't matter. But be aware that new cables will differ
slightly lin length, so it is unlikely you will be able to find a replacement
core (off the shelf) to fit your existing sheath unless you have a shop
custom make one up (I'd recommend this on the tach should you need to replace
the cable, as the original golden sheath is a nice tid bit to have and all it
will ever need is a new core).
Roger
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 09:23:37 -0500
Subject: RE: Fuel Pump
Hi Michael,
Your experience with the two pumps in parallel is very strange. The 100S
fuel system consists of something very similar; a pair of identical SU
LCS pumps in parallel, although they have separate pick up pipes from
the tank, one of which is located lower in the tank. The pump with the
lower pickup is used to provide a fuel reserve when that pump is turned
on.
The SU pumps do, in fact, have a check valve, in fact most have 2 being
the inlet and outlet valves for the pump chamber.
Your problem would tend to indicate that the NAPA pump was installed
backwards, but I'm sure that you would have checked on that.
Weird!!
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Awgertoo@aol.com
Sent: 19-Nov-02 8:01 AM
To: qualitas@millenicom.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump
In a message dated 11/19/02 7:05:19 AM Eastern Standard Time,
qualitas@millenicom.com writes:
> The recommended way to keep both pumps is to put them in parallel
Apparently there is no check valve in an SU pump, or so I must assume:
When
initially installing the NAPA pump I tried two parallel loops, using two
"T'"
fittings to create the loops . All ws okay when running on the SU, but
when
running on the NAPA pump I experienced fuel starvation, indicating that
some
of the fuel was pumping back from the second "T" back thru the SU to the
first "T" and so back again to the NAPA. IOW, the suction of the NAPA
was
pulling fuel back thru the SU, and as a result not enough fuel was
getting to
the engine at even moderate speeds. When I mounted the pumps in series
(as
they remain) I experienced no problems.
Best--Michael Oritt, 1955 00 Le Mans (Not an M)
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 11:21:48 EST
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump
> Your problem would tend to indicate that the NAPA pump was installed
> backwards, but I'm sure that you would have checked on that.
>
>
I have since heard from another lister who said that he had no problem
hooking up the SU and NAPA in parallel. It is possible that my particular SU
has a bad check valve. It is NOT possible that the NAPA was backward, as it
was delivering fuel (I ran it with an open head before reconnecting it. It
IS possible that I may have created too close a loop--I believe that "T's" at
the beginning and end of the two loops were less than 6" apart, thus allowing
the NAPA to pull fuel more easily back thru the SU, but that was my
experience. FWIW, since both pumps are diaphragm types, I saw--and have
experienced--no probelms with them being mounted in series, plus it made for
a neater, more compact installation. It all happens inside the wheel arch.
Just my $.02--Michael
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From "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 11:51:29 -0600
Subject: Gary Anderson? Where are you? Anybody seen Gary???
I would like to know how many Gold Level BN6 Austin Healeys there are in
the USA. I know that's difficult. Let's make it easy. How many made gold
over the past two years. That's easy since you are the record keeper for
the concours.
Others would like similar information about the other model Austin
Healeys.
Bob Denton
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 09:51:49 -0800
Subject: Re: need dimension of "distance Pieces" for 61 BT7 shifter
In the past, I have made some of these from steel tubing that was
approximately the correct OD and ID.
John Snyder
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Austin Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, November 18, 2002 7:31 PM
Subject: need dimension of "distance Pieces" for 61 BT7 shifter
> can anyone tell me the dimensions of the 3 distance pieces that go between
> the transmission and the metal plate or "seat" that secures/retains the
> shifter ball for the side shift lever?? Mine are missing (dismantled 8
> years ago).
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From "Terence H. & Suzanne F. McCool" <cm18 at epix.net>
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 14:59:31 -0500
Subject: test
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 15:05:56 EST
Subject: spridget list info
TIA--Michael
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 04:06:51 -0500
Subject: Re: spridget list info
Maybe hardtops are easier to find for the tiny cars?
Regards,
CB
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 14:43:12 -0700
Subject: BN2 top bow
The top bow on my BN2 projects about one half inch beyond the windshield
frame on each side. This causes the top latches to be bent at an angle
to the windshield posts & leaves a very noticeable step/gap at the top
corners.
Is this correct or should I consider narrowing the top bow? I don't know
if the bow is original. Do you have a dimension for bow width?
Can the top frame assembly mounting be adjusted for fore - aft alignment
with the windshield. As is, it takes a real fight to get the top fully
latched.
Thanks for the help,
Dave Russell
BN2
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From "Casarona, Paul" <pcasarona at auburnschools.org>
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 15:49:20 -0600
Subject: BN6 Owners
Thanks,
Paul Casarona
1958 BN6
Auburn, AL
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 14:54:16 -0700
Subject: Re: spridget list info
The first line in the trailer.
http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool
Dave Russell
Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
>
> Where do I go to sign up for the Spridget list?
>
> TIA--Michael
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From HealeyHundred at aol.com
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 17:28:59 EST
Subject: Re: BN6 Owners
The following are the publication numbers and dates of the owners handbooks
that I know of, I am sure there are more.
996/F (January 1957) Owners Handbook AH100-6
996/G (March 1957) Owners Handbook AH 100-6
97H 996H (May 1957) Owners Handbook AH100-6
996/J (February 1958) Owners Handbook AH 100-6
996H May 1957 Owners handbook AH 100/6
996G March 1957 Owners handbook AH 100/6
I do have a spare of the 996/F . If your interested in trading, let me know.
Good luck on your search, the 100/6 Owners books seem to be RAHT!
Best,
Richard
Richard
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 15:55:44 -0800
Subject: Re: BN6 Owners
I have a Brooklands - Heritage reprint of the May 1957 version of the 100-6
Owners Handbook - publication # 97H 996H. It is in near perfect condition,
and is signed by Geoff, John, and Brian Healey (at the Healey '92
International Meet - Breckenridge, Colorado).
Since I have never owned a 100-6, nor is it likely that I ever will, I could
be talked into parting with it. The problem is that I have no idea what it
might be worth.
Let me know if you have any interest.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Casarona, Paul" <pcasarona@auburnschools.org>
To: "Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, November 19, 2002 1:49 PM
Subject: BN6 Owners
Ok guys,
I am determined not to give up on this one. I really want an
original owner's handbook for my BN6. I can't seem to find any information
on these things, let alone one for sale. I'm starting to doubt that they
even exist. If any of you has one of these, could you please e-mail me back
with the publication number and date of the manual so that I can at least
tell which one is correct for my car. Any help you could provide would
instantly make you my new best friend, (but don't let that scare you off.)
Thanks,
Paul Casarona
1958 BN6
Auburn, AL
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 19:04:36 -0500
Subject: Car cover usage
The cover that I have seems to made of very pale green cotton cloth. It
doesn't have any liner per se, nor is one side different than the other. I
don't see any identifying labels or marks on it.
Might any listers have experience with such covers? Do they aggravate the
collection of moisture, or help eliminate any? Is there anything I should
watch out for when using a car cover?
I plan on driving the car once a week, weather permitting, during the cold
winter season.
Ideas and/or suggestions are welcome. Thanks!
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Meanie"
Former owner of a 1957 100-6, and a 1967 BJ8
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From A2Garrison at aol.com
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 19:23:12 EST
Subject: Re: BN6 Owners
Alan
BN 6
In a message dated 11/19/2002 5:41:09 PM Eastern Standard Time,
HealeyHundred@aol.com writes:
> The following are the publication numbers and dates of the owners handbooks
> that I know of, I am sure there are more.
>
> 996/F (January 1957) Owners Handbook AH100-6
> 996/G (March 1957) Owners Handbook AH 100-6
> 97H 996H (May 1957) Owners Handbook AH100-6
> 996/J (February 1958) Owners Handbook AH 100-6
> 996H May 1957 Owners handbook AH 100/6
> 996G March 1957 Owners handbook AH 100/6
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 17:29:57 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Car cover usage
The only time when car covers aggrevates the
collection of moisture is when you live in a very hot
and humid climate like Houston. I think in the dead
of winter in Maine, although it is wet and sometimes
humid, the actual water content of the air is quite
low (it's too cold to carry that much water). As a
result, I think using a cover in this environment
won't cause any problems, particularly if you put it
on in the dead of winter where the temperature will
only go up going into spring.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 (Covered in California)
'66 BJ8 (Uncovered in Hong Kong)
--- Alex <alexmm@adelphia.net> wrote:
> Now that the cold weather has arrived in southern
> Maine, I'm planning to put
> my BT7 in a different garage, also unheated. As I do
> this, I'm thinking
> about covering it with a car cover that the OO gave
> to me. I'm wondering if
> this is a good idea or not.
>
> The cover that I have seems to made of very pale
> green cotton cloth. It
> doesn't have any liner per se, nor is one side
> different than the other. I
> don't see any identifying labels or marks on it.
>
> Might any listers have experience with such covers?
> Do they aggravate the
> collection of moisture, or help eliminate any? Is
> there anything I should
> watch out for when using a car cover?
>
> I plan on driving the car once a week, weather
> permitting, during the cold
> winter season.
>
> Ideas and/or suggestions are welcome. Thanks!
>
> == Alex in Maine
> 1960 BT7 "Blue Meanie"
> Former owner of a 1957 100-6, and a 1967 BJ8
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 18:05:28 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: BN2 top bow
I don't know if this email is any help or not.... but
my BN1 has the same problem - it projects forward
about 1/2-3/4" too far, so far that it doesn't seal
with the windshield in places & has broken off one of
the two chrome triangles on the backside of the top
bow - from too much pressure on them.
I've futzed around with it quite a bit and you can get
some relief by re aligning the windscreen at a
slightly more perpendicular angle, and you can also
get the top to come back a bit by ajusting at the
top's mounts on each side of the car - moving them
back as well as rotating them a bit will bring the top
back some.
I've done all the adjustment I can and I've decided to
replace the two chrome triangles with an aluminum
strip from one side of the top bow to the other - this
should once and for all fix the gap problem by forcing
the top to come back a bit - this will help with
sealing in rain and keep the top on the car as high
speed as well (I can't go any faster than 70 with the
top up right now....).
Anyone else have any experience with this problem?
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net> wrote:
> Roger or anyone who knows,
>
> The top bow on my BN2 projects about one half inch
> beyond the windshield
> frame on each side. This causes the top latches to
> be bent at an angle
> to the windshield posts & leaves a very noticeable
> step/gap at the top
> corners.
>
> Is this correct or should I consider narrowing the
> top bow? I don't know
> if the bow is original. Do you have a dimension for
> bow width?
>
> Can the top frame assembly mounting be adjusted for
> fore - aft alignment
> with the windshield. As is, it takes a real fight to
> get the top fully
> latched.
>
> Thanks for the help,
>
> Dave Russell
> BN2
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From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 20:29:19 -0600
Subject: Little Tuesday evening humour from the Great White North
With the recent bout of drivers vs concours (no pun intended), Michael (Oritt)
in search of a Spridgets list or was it a lost second pump, and that good old
boy Michael (Salter) trying to pass off an old building in Toronto as "the Cape"
I thought it's only fitting for some additional humour from the mind numbing
part of the North American continent -wink!
The following was supplied to me by an ex biker come biker mechanic now into
re-building MGBs and MGB-GTs while servicing golf carts and lawn mowers for the
Saskatoon Golf and Country Club - oh I believe in giving credit where credits
due!
the joke:
A team of archaeologists from the Royal Ontario Museum were working on a dig
near Jerusalem when they found a slab of rock with five figures carved into it.
The figures were: 1.) a women, 2.0 a donkey, 3.) a shovel, 4.) a fish and 5.)
something that looked like the Star of David. After months of studying the rock
and the figures, the leader of the dig took the rock and went on a lecture
tour. He said: the carving were more than several thousands of years old, but
even so, they revealed a lot about the people that inhabited the site: 1.) the
women being placed first in line of figures indicated that women were held in
very high esteem. It was most likely a family oriented culture. 2.) The donkey
indicated they had domesticated animals which were used to till the fields. 3.)
The shovel shows these people were highly intelligent as they were capable of
designing and building tools. 4.) The fish shows they augment their diet with
food from the sea . Finally 5.) the Star indicated they were a very religious
group.
Just then a little old man in the second row raised his hand to get the
archaeologists attention. When acknowledged the old man said "I'm sorry to blow
away your conclusions but you were reading the piece of stone from left to
right. In Hebrew we read from right to left. That way, it read "holy mackerel,
dig the ass on that babe!"
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
'65 BJ8
'89 Morgan 4/4
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From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 02:32:38 +0000
Subject: Jensen Interceptor "list"
--
Mark
59 BT7
Carson, CA
-
-
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From Doug Ingram <dougi at shaw.ca>
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 18:34:04 -0800
Subject: Re: Car cover usage
Here on the wet northwest coast (will it ever stop raining??) I keep my car
covered all winter, with only occasional usage, and with no detrimental
affect to the paintwork.
Doug Ingram
Victoria BC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Alex" <alexmm@adelphia.net>; "Healeys (E-mail)"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, November 19, 2002 5:29 PM
Subject: Re: Car cover usage
> Alex -
>
> The only time when car covers aggrevates the
> collection of moisture is when you live in a very hot
> and humid climate like Houston. I think in the dead
> of winter in Maine, although it is wet and sometimes
> humid, the actual water content of the air is quite
> low (it's too cold to carry that much water). As a
> result, I think using a cover in this environment
> won't cause any problems, particularly if you put it
> on in the dead of winter where the temperature will
> only go up going into spring.
>
> Regards,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 (Covered in California)
> '66 BJ8 (Uncovered in Hong Kong)
>
> --- Alex <alexmm@adelphia.net> wrote:
> > Now that the cold weather has arrived in southern
> > Maine, I'm planning to put
> > my BT7 in a different garage, also unheated. As I do
> > this, I'm thinking
> > about covering it with a car cover that the OO gave
> > to me. I'm wondering if
> > this is a good idea or not.
> >
> > The cover that I have seems to made of very pale
> > green cotton cloth. It
> > doesn't have any liner per se, nor is one side
> > different than the other. I
> > don't see any identifying labels or marks on it.
> >
> > Might any listers have experience with such covers?
> > Do they aggravate the
> > collection of moisture, or help eliminate any? Is
> > there anything I should
> > watch out for when using a car cover?
> >
> > I plan on driving the car once a week, weather
> > permitting, during the cold
> > winter season.
> >
> > Ideas and/or suggestions are welcome. Thanks!
> >
> > == Alex in Maine
> > 1960 BT7 "Blue Meanie"
> > Former owner of a 1957 100-6, and a 1967 BJ8
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 21:46:53 EST
Subject: Re: BN6 Owners
which included an 8 page suppliment that was inserted (not bound):
"Suppliment (for series BN6)"
"Suppliment AKD 931 to Publication 97H 996"
Later BN6's had this light blue covered book:
AKD 947
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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 21:49:23 -0500
Subject: Re: BN2 top bow
It sounds to me as though Dave is asking if the top bow projection from left
to right is excessive. I'd say that the bow and frame sitting proud to the
left and right of the windscreen posts sounds about right. That's the reason
the top latch has the angled bend to reach in to the stud. If yours doesn't
have the required bend, check with an original and make sure yours has the
correct angled bend.
As for the fore and aft fit, this ca be adjusted two ways. First make sure
the windscreen posts have the correct angle to them. This can be checked
approximately by comparing the angle of the sidescreen frame, which should
run parallel. Secondly the top frame anchor brackets where they fit to the
body can be loosened and adjusted quite a bit by rotating the anchor plate
within the tolerance of the 5/16" diameter bolts sitting within 1/2"
diameter holes in the body. This adjustment will also greatly alter the gap
between the top of the windscreen frame and the header bar, allowing the
sometimes excessive gap in the middle to close up to an acceptable fit.
Good luck.
Rich Chrysler
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 22:20:45 -0500
Subject: Re: BN6 Owners
Anyone know where I can get this supplement -- AKD 931?
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <pcasarona@auburnschools.org>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, November 19, 2002 9:46 PM
Subject: Re: BN6 Owners
> The BN6 originally came with this book with a red cover:
> "February 1958"
> "Publication 97H 996J"
>
> which included an 8 page suppliment that was inserted (not bound):
> "Suppliment (for series BN6)"
> "Suppliment AKD 931 to Publication 97H 996"
>
> Later BN6's had this light blue covered book:
> AKD 947
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 22:18:51 -0500
Subject: Re: BN6 Owners
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: <A2Garrison@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, November 19, 2002 7:23 PM
Subject: Re: BN6 Owners
> My 100-Six Owners Handbook goes by part no. AKD947A with no date
indicated.
> It states that it applies to Series BN 6 and Series BN 4 from car no.
48863.
>
> Alan
> BN 6
>
> In a message dated 11/19/2002 5:41:09 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> HealeyHundred@aol.com writes:
>
>
> > The following are the publication numbers and dates of the owners
handbooks
> > that I know of, I am sure there are more.
> >
> > 996/F (January 1957) Owners Handbook AH100-6
> > 996/G (March 1957) Owners Handbook AH 100-6
> > 97H 996H (May 1957) Owners Handbook AH100-6
> > 996/J (February 1958) Owners Handbook AH 100-6
> > 996H May 1957 Owners handbook AH 100/6
> > 996G March 1957 Owners handbook AH 100/6
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From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 23:12:00 -0600
Subject: keeping the smoke in
>Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 14:16:08 -0800
>From: Jonathan and Carole Quandt <fourqz@earthlink.net>
>Subject: new wiring harness 100-4
>I smoked the wiring harness on my BN-2 this morning while attempting >to
>repair running lights. What distributor has the best wiring harness/best
>price? Also, this procedure has to be a major pain! Any advice on >where
to
>begin and what the pitfalls are from someone who's done this already?
>no cheers today,
>Jonathan Quandt
>Northern California
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 22:07:42 -0700
Subject: Re: BN2 top bow
Thanks for the replies.
I took your advice, loosened the top frame mounting bolts behind the
doors & with the top clamped to the windshield, wiggled the top frame
around to equalize the pressures, & tightened the bolts. The top now
comes down exactly in line & clamps easily. The bow to windshield fit is
even & snug.
Alan, a couple of thoughts on your top. If the bow meets the windshield
at both outside corners but not in the center, your top bow may be
warped. There is some kind of cushion rubber under the vinyl, where it
folds around the bow, that will take up some gap between bow &
windshield. Also there is a front lip on the bow (under the vinyl) which
fits down over the top front of the windshield frame & this lip must fit
down over the windshield to compress the rubber.
Maybe you could enlarge the top frame mounting holes behind the doors
even more to allow more fore & aft adjustment. Just a thought.
I imagine that everyone but me already knows this stuff.
Thanks again,
Dave Russell
Blue One Hundred wrote:
>
> Hi Dave -
>
> I don't know if this email is any help or not.... but
> my BN1 has the same problem - it projects forward
> about 1/2-3/4" too far, so far that it doesn't seal
> with the windshield in places & has broken off one of
> the two chrome triangles on the backside of the top
> bow - from too much pressure on them.
>
> I've futzed around with it quite a bit and you can get
> some relief by re aligning the windscreen at a
> slightly more perpendicular angle, and you can also
> get the top to come back a bit by ajusting at the
> top's mounts on each side of the car - moving them
> back as well as rotating them a bit will bring the top
> back some.
>
> I've done all the adjustment I can and I've decided to
> replace the two chrome triangles with an aluminum
> strip from one side of the top bow to the other - this
> should once and for all fix the gap problem by forcing
> the top to come back a bit - this will help with
> sealing in rain and keep the top on the car as high
> speed as well (I can't go any faster than 70 with the
> top up right now....).
>
> Anyone else have any experience with this problem?
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 21:10:38 -0800
Subject: Re: keeping the smoke in
I agree with nearly everything you have said and I'm saving your post
in my archives, but Rhode Island Wiring does solder the bullets, or at
least they did on my BN1 harnesses. (Sorry Roger M. but I'm going to
leave the connectors where they are on the harness and not unsolder
the bullets and attach the originals, but I will keep them.:-)
-Roland
On Tue, 19 Nov 2002 23:12:00 -0600, "Mr. Finespanner"
<MrFinespanner@prodigy.net> wrote:
:: Jonathan,
:: In addition to also recommending the parts and service from British
:: Wiring there are a couple installation tips I would like to offer, to you
:: or anyone else contemplating the task:
:: No manufacturer solders the bullets these days; they are crimped instead.
:: The British Wiring harnesses are the only ones I've seen where the bullets
:: won't pull off relatively easily. Whatever the source, I make it a regular
:: practice to solder any crimped bullets that may need to be disconnected for
:: any reason in the future, like those on the headlight leads and the
:: stator cable.
:: To avoid letting the smoke out of a new harness test for dead [snip]
:: Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
::
:: >Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 14:16:08 -0800
:: >From: Jonathan and Carole Quandt <fourqz@earthlink.net>
:: >Subject: new wiring harness 100-4
::
:: >I smoked the wiring harness on my BN-2 this morning while attempting >to
:: >repair running lights. What distributor has the best wiring harness/best
:: >price? Also, this procedure has to be a major pain! Any advice on >where
:: to
:: >begin
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From HealeyHundred at aol.com
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 00:26:15 EST
Subject: Re: BN6 Owners
AKD 947A shows both the BN6 and the BN4 from car no. 48863. The photo page
also shows both cars.
Best,
Richard
In a message dated 11/19/2002 4:11:22 PM Mountain Standard Time,
pcasarona@auburnschools.org writes:
<< Subj: RE: BN6 Owners
Date: 11/19/2002 4:11:22 PM Mountain Standard Time
From: pcasarona@auburnschools.org (Casarona, Paul)
To: HealeyHundred@aol.com ('HealeyHundred@aol.com')
Richard,
Since my car is a BN6 which were not made until March of '58, I
don't believe any of these books include the 2-seat 100-6. I have been in
contact with another lister who has the one I need but I doubt that he will
part with it. Hopefully, I can get at least the publication number and date
from him. Better than nill I suppose.
Thanks for responding,
Paul Casarona
1958 BN6
Auburn, AL >>
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 22:37:03 -0700
Subject: BN2 dash paint
Can someone help with the "silver" paint color around the instruments on
my BN2 dash. I have read that it should be a dull silver. This really
doesn't tell me enough to select the correct paint. There are all kinds
& shades of silver available. I need a specific paint manufacturer &
number, or preferably more than one.
Also has anyone tried to repaint this part of the dash without removing
it. Only the silver part needs to be redone. Maybe slip the instruments
partially out, remove the steering wheel, & a lot of masking. It is
really hard on my old bones to try to stand on my head to disconnect all
of the wiring & stuff to completely remove the dash.
Thanks,
Dave Russell
BN2
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From "Ryan at Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 01:14:27 -0500
Subject: air flow direction flaps - how do they fit?
I know, I shoulda taken more pictures. Even the British Car Specialist BJ7
picture set doesn't have them shown in place. :)
Ryan
BJ7
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from a spray can, probably too "silvery", but I think you could paint it with
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 01:24:24 EST
Subject: Re: BN2 dash paint
That being said, once you have taken the gauges out, all you have is the
switches, and if I remember correctly you can remove those without taking the
wiring off, just unscrew the nuts on the front. I gus what I am saying is
once you have the guages out it is not much more work to pull the dash,
ultimately the job would probably be easier that way.
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From British Wiring <BritishWiring at Ameritech.net>
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 19:14:08 -0600
Subject: Reply to comments (regarding harnesses) by R. Moment &
While I certainly uphold every person's right to an opinion and
certainly their right to shop wherever they please there are some
comments I would like to address.
The difference between our concours harnesses and the non-concours is
generally to provide a choice between braided wire or PVC wire, both
with the braid outer wrap. In the case of the BN6 & 7, BT7 and BJ7
harness it is basically a distinction in the color of tracer in the
chassis section outer braid, and the presence of braiding on the
yellow/green wire.
Our harnesses are made in England and use the correct British spec wire,
the system being to identify the wire by the number of copper strands it
contains. This is not the same as the US wire sizes or system of gauges.
Our harnesses are always produced using the size of wire required for
the application involved. In no way do we substitute in the non-concours
option.
We do hear this reference to "brown" tracers occasionally. The
'background' or base color of a harness is black. Black fades out into a
definite shade of brown. Dyes of many years ago were not as consistent
and color fast as those of today. Depending on the strength and fastness
of the dye lot some spools of cotton thread faded quicker than others.
This cotton wrap on the harnesses is done by fitting several spools of
thread on to a machine that knits the thread onto the harness. Naturally
these threads are knit in a consistent order, therefore if one spool
fades faster than the others then a reoccurring pattern of "brown" will
show in the whole length of the harness wrap.
In conclusion I would just like to add that we have several "gold
winners" among our customers so I think that speaks for itself. As wth
all of life's choices it comes down to a matter of "each to his own"!
Lesley Cehelnik
_____________________________________
British Wiring
20449 Ithaca Road
Olympia Fields, IL
USA 60461
Phone or Fax
(708) 481-9050
email: BritishWiring@Ameritech.net
web: www.BritishWiring.com
terms: Visa, Mastercard, Discover, Prepay, COD
****************************************************************************
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From Joyce Corcoran <jcorcoran at printex-inc.com>
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 10:54:55 -0500
Subject: book search
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From "Charlie" <charliestewart at hotmail.com>
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 23:18:10 -0600
Subject: Rallye Time Piece
Thanks,
Charlie
'53 BN1 Red
charliestewart@hotmail.com
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 06:09:50 EST
Subject: Re: Reply to comments (regarding harnesses) by R. Moment &
> Our harnesses are made in England and use the correct British spec wire,
> the system being to identify the wire by the number of copper strands it
> contains. This is not the same as the US wire sizes or system of gauges.
> Our harnesses are always produced using the size of wire required for
> the application involved. In no way do we substitute in the non-concours
> option.
>
>
Forgive the misinformation--I stand corrected.
Best--Michael
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From "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 06:07:21 -0800
Subject: Re: Rallye Time Piece
Those rally clocks and gooseneck lights are frightfully expensive. A good set of
Heuer (pronounced hoyer) clocks and the chrome mounting plates will run you a
couple of grand. if you can find them. You are much better off with a couple of
digital ones mounted to a clip board. Besides, it's not the size your clock,
it's
how you it.
Bob Denton
Charlie wrote:
> The next TSD Rallye weekend will be in February. I would like to be
> competitive this time around... I hate losing to all those Miata guys/gals!
> Does anyone have a set-up that is user friendly for a novice. I've seen the
> map light and time pieces that are attached to the passenger side dash on the
> professional rallye cars... I think they look cool. Sources, tips/hints would
> be greatly appreciated and cost is always a factor.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Charlie
> '53 BN1 Red
> charliestewart@hotmail.com
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From "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 06:24:21 -0800
Subject: Re: Little Tuesday evening humour from the Great White North
However, I am more concerned about Mr. Salter's picture. Is that truly a
building
in Toronto?
Bob Denton
"M.E. & E.A. Driver" wrote:
> Hi Fellows
>
> With the recent bout of drivers vs concours (no pun intended), Michael (Oritt)
> in search of a Spridgets list or was it a lost second pump, and that good old
> boy Michael (Salter) trying to pass off an old building in Toronto as "the
>Cape"
> I thought it's only fitting for some additional humour from the mind numbing
> part of the North American continent -wink!
>
> The following was supplied to me by an ex biker come biker mechanic now into
> re-building MGBs and MGB-GTs while servicing golf carts and lawn mowers for
>the
> Saskatoon Golf and Country Club - oh I believe in giving credit where credits
> due!
>
> the joke:
>
> A team of archaeologists from the Royal Ontario Museum were working on a dig
> near Jerusalem when they found a slab of rock with five figures carved into
>it.
> The figures were: 1.) a women, 2.0 a donkey, 3.) a shovel, 4.) a fish and 5.)
> something that looked like the Star of David. After months of studying the
>rock
> and the figures, the leader of the dig took the rock and went on a lecture
> tour. He said: the carving were more than several thousands of years old,
>but
> even so, they revealed a lot about the people that inhabited the site: 1.) the
> women being placed first in line of figures indicated that women were held in
> very high esteem. It was most likely a family oriented culture. 2.) The donkey
> indicated they had domesticated animals which were used to till the fields.
>3.)
> The shovel shows these people were highly intelligent as they were capable of
> designing and building tools. 4.) The fish shows they augment their diet with
> food from the sea . Finally 5.) the Star indicated they were a very religious
> group.
>
> Just then a little old man in the second row raised his hand to get the
> archaeologists attention. When acknowledged the old man said "I'm sorry to
>blow
> away your conclusions but you were reading the piece of stone from left to
> right. In Hebrew we read from right to left. That way, it read "holy
>mackerel,
> dig the ass on that babe!"
>
> Kind regards
> Ed
> Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
> '65 BJ8
> '89 Morgan 4/4
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 06:30:16 -0500
Subject: RE: Rallye Time Piece
I would strongly recommend a Brantz International 2 "S" Pro. You can
download information from this site. It is easy to use and gives you
lotsa good info with BIG numbers for those of us fighting old age :-)
http://www.donbarrow.co.uk/
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Charlie
Sent: 16-Nov-02 12:18 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Rallye Time Piece
The next TSD Rallye weekend will be in February. I would like to be
competitive this time around... I hate losing to all those Miata
guys/gals!
Does anyone have a set-up that is user friendly for a novice. I've seen
the
map light and time pieces that are attached to the passenger side dash
on the
professional rallye cars... I think they look cool. Sources, tips/hints
would
be greatly appreciated and cost is always a factor.
Thanks,
Charlie
'53 BN1 Red
charliestewart@hotmail.com
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From HealeyBJ7 at aol.com
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 06:44:13 EST
Subject: The Healey Book
Bill Emerson,
Our chapter of the Austin Healey Club would like to present a copy of
"The Healey Book" as a grand prize for our annual event next summer. The
publishers web page shows this as sold out, but I was wondering if you (or
anyone else} have any suggestions about where to find one of these limited
editions.
Thank you,
Bob
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 03:47:40 -0800 (PST)
Subject: RE: Big Healey Scuttle Shake & Reversing the polarity.
Although I agree in part with Micheal, there is one
thing will cause scuttle shake no matter what - when
you hit pot holes or rough road conditions. No manner
of balancing or trueness will help here. The only
thing that will stop scuttle shake in this particular
instance is either:
1) Frame and outriggers are solid and like new with no
internal rust and subframe and frame are solidly fixed
together
- or -
2) you weld in some of that angle iron in the
transmission bulkhead area... like everyone recommends
My BJ8 does not have scuttle shake on the freeway
because it is all well balanced like Mike says, but
when I hit a pothole or some bad road conditions, boy
the bulkhead sounds like a chain mail skirt on a hula
dancer! I plan on fixing this my next tear down on
the BJ8....
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Michael Salter <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
wrote:
> Hi Bob,
>
> You are certainly going to be looking forward to
> driving your Healey!
>
> My personal experience with scuttle shake has been
> that it is not a
> problem if the car is in good condition, the wheels
> and tires and true
> and balanced and things like brake drums and splines
> and properly
> sorted.
>
> Other listers however have had problems in this area
> and may be better
> able to advise.
>
> The fuel (gas) gauge will not be affected by your
> polarity change.
>
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of rhss@onecom.com
> Sent: 18-Nov-02 9:44 PM
> To: Healey Help List
> Subject: Big Healey Scuttle Shake & Reversing the
> polarity.
>
> Big Healey Scuttle Shake & Reversing the polarity.
>
> A couple of weeks ago I put a post in asking for
> help on
> lifters and Pistons from MOSS.
> I want to thank everybody I learned a lot.
>
> Now I have two other questions the first is on
> shuttle
> shake. I'm in the middle or restoring 1966 BJ8
> the vehicle is very solid with no rust in a very
> tight
> front end. I have read a lot about these cars
> having a
> shuttle shake between 50 and 60. (I have Never
> driven
> this car)
> I have seen articles on the Web were owners have
> welded
> in bracing and done other things to stop this.
> I would like to hear from someone who has done this
> and
> how it is worked and what exactly they did.
> Right now the car has no interior and no drivetrain
> so
> it is very easy to work on.
>
> The next question is on polarity the Healey Marque
> magazine for March 2001 has a very good article on
> reversing polarity written by Alan Hendrix on page
> 6.
> The only thing he does not cover is what to do about
> the
> gas gauge do I change it or leave alone.
>
> Thank you
> Bob Sturtevant
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From "Lawrence Mercier" <lmercibn6 at mindspring.com>
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 06:53:19 -0500
Subject: Re: BN6 Owners
----- Original Message -----
From: "Casarona, Paul" <pcasarona@auburnschools.org>
To: "Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, November 19, 2002 4:49 PM
Subject: BN6 Owners
> Ok guys,
> I am determined not to give up on this one. I really want an
> original owner's handbook for my BN6. I can't seem to find any
information
> on these things, let alone one for sale. I'm starting to doubt that they
> even exist. If any of you has one of these, could you please e-mail me
back
> with the publication number and date of the manual so that I can at least
> tell which one is correct for my car. Any help you could provide would
> instantly make you my new best friend, (but don't let that scare you off.)
>
> Thanks,
>
> Paul Casarona
> 1958 BN6
> Auburn, AL
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From Bob Haskell <bhaskell at iquest.net>
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 07:02:30 -0500
Subject: Re: book search
The publisher is Coterie Press and their web site is
http://www.coteriepress.com. EWA lists the book on their site,
http://www.ewa1.com.
Bob Haskell
1960 Austin-Healey 3000 Mk I
1964 Austin Mini Cooper RHD
1980 MGB-LE
bhaskell@iquest.net
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 07:25:54 -0500
Subject: RE: Little Tuesday evening humour from the Great White North
The building is in the CAPE area of Warwick and was pointed out as being
the one used by the Healeys.
As far as I could see it was the only "hangar" style building in the
area and The Cape Works was a wartime hangar moved to the site just
after WWII.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group
Sent: 20-Nov-02 9:24 AM
To: M.E. & E.A. Driver
Cc: Austin Healey list
Subject: Re: Little Tuesday evening humour from the Great White North
funny.
However, I am more concerned about Mr. Salter's picture. Is that truly a
building
in Toronto?
Bob Denton
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From "Jack Feldman" <qualitas at millenicom.com>
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 06:30:03 -0600
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump
The first person who suggested leaving two pumps put the new one in series. As
you said, no problems. However, when I asked Forintune to do the same, Tom
suggested that they should go in parallel. I have a book on modifying and
improving MGs that also suggests the parallel configuration. Neither say how
to accomplish it, but your method sounds like what I will do.
I really haven't driving my Healey using the cube pump, but had planned to do
it next time I drive the car. It is time to put it to bed so I might not give
it much of a trial. I'll save your message, and share my experience when I
rack up some miles on the cube pump.
Thanks for the information,
Jack
----- Original Message -----
From: Awgertoo@aol.com
To: qualitas@millenicom.com ; healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, November 19, 2002 7:01 AM
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump
In a message dated 11/19/02 7:05:19 AM Eastern Standard Time,
qualitas@millenicom.com writes:
The recommended way to keep both pumps is to put them in parallel
Apparently there is no check valve in an SU pump, or so I must assume: When
initially installing the NAPA pump I tried two parallel loops, using two "T'"
fittings to create the loops . All ws okay when running on the SU, but when
running on the NAPA pump I experienced fuel starvation, indicating that some
of the fuel was pumping back from the second "T" back thru the SU to the first
"T" and so back again to the NAPA. IOW, the suction of the NAPA was pulling
fuel back thru the SU, and as a result not enough fuel was getting to the
engine at even moderate speeds. When I mounted the pumps in series (as they
remain) I experienced no problems.
Best--Michael Oritt, 1955 00 Le Mans (Not an M)
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From "Roberta and Bob Johnson" <bandrj at earthlink.net>
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 07:53:41 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ8 Erratic Tach
Thanks again for posting the rebuild instructions for the tach. I think that
there may be a slight problem in the parts list. However, since I haven't
taken the tach out since I received my parts from Mouser I can't be sure,
but part no. 292-3.0K is a very tiny square, flat "chip" resistor with no
pigtails. All of the others are the old style barrel shaped resistors. Is
this right? (I'm posting this now before anyone else might order parts.)
Bob Johnson
BJ8
> Hi All,
>
> A NUMBER of months ago, I sent out a notice to the list about my rebuild
for
> the BJ8 Electronic tach.
<snip>
>
> The document is in the form of a PDF file. But it came out kinda
big....it's
> about 500K. You can download it from my site...the link is below. If that
> doesn't work for you, I can snail mail a printout of this. Let me know if
> you need that. Some people did at the time, but please let me know again.
>
> Anyway...here it is. Good luck, and I'm sorry for the delay.
>
> Click on the link below. Go to the BOTTOM of the page, and right click on
> the UPDATE to save the
> document.
> http://www.radiantsoundworks.com/AustinHealey.html
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From "Terence H. & Suzanne F. McCool" <cm18 at epix.net>
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 08:21:34 -0500
Subject: Balance tube 100-M
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 20:29:16 -0500
Subject: Re: 'Cape' hanger
Could it be that the one now at 'The Cape' is a repro? Did anyone check
for a certificate or look for numbers under the eaves? Could the original be
in a barn in Toronto?
Just a thought,
CB
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From OldHealeys at aol.com
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 08:33:15 EST
Subject: Re: book search
Bill Emerson
Author
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From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 14:31:34 +0000
Subject: Re: Balance tube 100-M
The packing you saw was the original. It used to be available as a spare
part. Before fitting, it is a ring of something like hemp wrapped in
lead which is then compressed tight between the two tapered items when
the two small nuts are tightened. You are correct to liken this to an
early type of water pump seal. This is the nearest you might now find to
the original. At one time I had this for fitting to a Standard Fordson
tractor but I am not sure if you can still get it from a vintage tractor
supplier.
All the best
>Healey List
>I have been monitoring the list for sometime and have learned alot about my
>Healey, however I now have a question that hopefully someone can help me
>with. The balance tube between the two intake manifolds has one end fixed
>and on the other end the collar that mounts to the intake moves and is not
>fixed. When I took the SU's and intake off there was like a small like
>water pump packing in the end that moved.
>My question is what can I put on this to seal it up? It seems there should
>be an oring or some type of gasket. Any help will be appreciated
>Thanks
>Terry McCool 100-M
>Stroudsburg, PA
>
--
John Harper
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From Rmoment at aol.com
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 09:36:01 EST
Subject: Re: Reply to comments (regarding harnesses) by R. Moment &
Unfortuneately, just becaluse something is made in England, or even by the
original supplier, doesn't mean it is being done today as it was some 40
years ago. I was not trying to make disparaging remarks about her wiring
harnesses. Thely are very fine and are correct, up to a point.
There are a number of lus who have been looking at details of wiring on a
large nubmer of cars. My observations were not based on one or two, but
rather malybe 10-20. The issue of brown tracers in 100 harnesses has been
discussed by manly of us on, and off, the Concours Committee. What I
reported about tracers, both in the covering looming and individual wires are
facts.
Her comments about British wire specs vs American is correct. However, I
know that Auto Sparks Ltd., who were one of the original wiring suppliers, is
now using the three-strand tracer in their indiividually-wrapped wires,
whereas they didn't in the 50s.
I have bought some wiring from Leslie before and, if I need more in the
future, would continue to use her as a source. In particular I buy the
battery cable as it is spot-oin.
Roger
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 10:02:34 -0500
Subject: RE: Car cover usage
I'm located in Kennebunk, in southern Maine. When we first moved here an old
timer told me that "If you can sahvive the wintah, you deserve the summah."
That about sums it up, although it seems that winters are getting milder,
just as climate change is being seen elsewhere.
In the summer, it has been quite hot at times. We had a few spells of
90-degree heat this last summer, but the evenings are usually pleasant, with
cooling breezes. We had many summertime days of idyllic 75 degree weather.
In the winter, we can get down to -15 at times, although usually it doesn't
go below 20 degrees F.
Two years ago we had more snow that I've ever seen, with drifts more than
ten feet high. Last year we hardly had any snow at all.
I hope this helps! Maine's a good place to live, high taxes aside. The
people are great, local town government is pretty good, the air is generally
crisp and clean, and vehicular traffic is a lot less than most places.
Hope that helps.
== Alex
1960 BT7 "Blue Meanie"
-----Original Message-----
From: Tom O'Brien [mailto:tomobrien@sbcglobal.net]
Sent: Tuesday, November 19, 2002 10:00 PM
To: Alex
Subject: Re: Car cover usage
Hi Alex, I'm a "list lurker" and BN1 owner but I'm more interested in Maine
this evening. If it's not to nosy can you tell me where you live in Maine
and what the average summer and winter temperatures and climates are. My
wife and I spent 3 weeks on the Maine's coast last October and fell in love
with the place. We have toyed with the idea of moving to Maine but being
from California don't have a clue about the harsh part of the year. Thanks
in advance,
Tom O'Brien.................
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From "Ted Schroeder" <Tedseven at torchlake.com>
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 10:20:04 -0500
Subject: Re: BN2 dash paint
I just went through this a few months ago. First of all, I don't think you
could do a good job without removing the dash. I managed to get it out with
out removing the steering wheel. Removing all the gauges and switches was
slow going but not difficult.
For color I selected a neutral dull silver that I was told by the list to be
correct. ( The paint I used was Seymour Dull Aluminum). After I applied the
dull silver I didn't like the look so I clear coated it. To my eye the dull
silver looked too bright and kind of cheap looking. Adding clear gloss
actually tones the silver down a little. I suppose it's not correct but I
don't really care. It looks nice. I did the whole job with spray cans.
Ted Schroeder
BN1
Subject: BN2 dash paint
> Hi,
>
> Can someone help with the "silver" paint color around the instruments on
> my BN2 dash. I have read that it should be a dull silver. This really
> doesn't tell me enough to select the correct paint. There are all kinds
> & shades of silver available. I need a specific paint manufacturer &
> number, or preferably more than one.
>
> Also has anyone tried to repaint this part of the dash without removing
> it. Only the silver part needs to be redone. Maybe slip the instruments
> partially out, remove the steering wheel, & a lot of masking. It is
> really hard on my old bones to try to stand on my head to disconnect all
> of the wiring & stuff to completely remove the dash.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dave Russell
> BN2
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From SERVICAR1 at cs.com
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 10:20:50 EST
Subject: Re: BT7 windshield seal
Lanny Pace
59 BT7
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From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 08:22:15 -0800
Subject: Re: air flow direction flaps - how do they fit?
Plate J1 of the Mechanical Service Parts List for the BJ7 and BJ8 shows the
Deflector pieces and the Tie-bar that connects them across the bottom. I can
scan
and email it to you if you need it but would suggest eventually getting the
Parts
list for your restoration because it identifies the correct fasteners and
assembly
details.
Cheers,
John
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From john mann <jemann58 at yahoo.com>
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 08:23:22 -0800 (PST)
Subject: toyoa converison of transmission
john mann jemann58@yahoo.com
__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Web Hosting - Let the expert host your site
http://webhosting.yahoo.com
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From "GM" <altec210 at yahoo.com>
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 11:52:28 -0500
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump
GM
----- Original Message -----
However, when I asked Forintune to do the same, Tom
> suggested that they should go in parallel. I have a book on modifying and
> improving MGs that also suggests the parallel configuration. Neither say
how
> to accomplish it, but your method sounds like what I will do.
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From justin.miller at lineone.net
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 15:58:45 +0000
Subject: car covers, my 1/20th of a Euro
My father bought a car cover for his new BMW Z3 and left it sat on the drive
for 3 years, only covering 1000 miles. I was really impressed with the
protection
the cover gave. It was turned green by the surrounding trees and eventually
perished, but the paintwork was kept immaculate.
When he took it back to the dealership to trade it in, they refused point
blank to believe it had never been garaged.
I think the #200 he paid for it was small change in comparison to the potential
depreciation and damage of 3 winters.
Justin Miller
'59 BT7
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From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 13:43:47 EST
Subject: Vredestein Tire Healey Brochure
Rick
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 20:23:06 -0600
Subject: Reassembly Lube for trany.
Thanks Mark
Mark,
58-MGA
60-MGA
76-MGB
74.5-MGBGT
60-BT7
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 17:37:11 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump
Cheers,
Alan
--- GM <altec210@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Pumps in series increases flow resistance and the
> potential for the fuel to
> 'vapor flash', especially on hot days, so isn't the
> best solution. Pumps in
> parallel need to be individually plumbed to the tank
> and filtered with only
> a mesh screen for best performance.
>
> GM
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> However, when I asked Forintune to do the same, Tom
> > suggested that they should go in parallel. I have
> a book on modifying and
> > improving MGs that also suggests the parallel
> configuration. Neither say
> how
> > to accomplish it, but your method sounds like what
> I will do.
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 20:51:19 EST
Subject: Jim Smith/Bluechip racing
Please contact me offlist (or if anyone know's Jim's current email address
please forward it to me.)
Best--Michael Oritt
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 18:13:24 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: The Healey Book
I think Steve Norton at Cape International may have a
couple copies for sale... www.cape-international.com.
Cheers
Alan
--- HealeyBJ7@aol.com wrote:
> Sorry to bomb the list but:
>
> Bill Emerson,
> Our chapter of the Austin Healey Club would like
> to present a copy of
> "The Healey Book" as a grand prize for our annual
> event next summer. The
> publishers web page shows this as sold out, but I
> was wondering if you (or
> anyone else} have any suggestions about where to
> find one of these limited
> editions.
> Thank you,
> Bob
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From "Cory LeBlanc" <cleblanc at midsouth.rr.com>
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 20:36:19 -0600
Subject: Re: Balance tube 100-M
Consider wrapping the tube with Teflon stem packing. This is available from
your local plumbing store. Before using this material, take a small strip of
it and apply it to a hot exhaust manifold. This will check for heat
tolerance. It should be ok.
Best Regards,
Jim LeBlanc
1956 100-M
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terence H. & Suzanne F. McCool" <cm18@epix.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, November 20, 2002 7:21 AM
Subject: Balance tube 100-M
> Healey List
> I have been monitoring the list for sometime and have learned alot about
my
> Healey, however I now have a question that hopefully someone can help me
> with. The balance tube between the two intake manifolds has one end fixed
> and on the other end the collar that mounts to the intake moves and is not
> fixed. When I took the SU's and intake off there was like a small like
> water pump packing in the end that moved.
> My question is what can I put on this to seal it up? It seems there
should
> be an oring or some type of gasket. Any help will be appreciated
> Thanks
> Terry McCool 100-M
> Stroudsburg, PA
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 18:53:30 -0800
Subject: Re: Reassembly Lube for trany.
John Snyder
> What would be a recommended reassembly lube for my BT7 transmission that
I
> expect may need to sit idle on a self for awhile , O/D included. The
> usual engine oil, STP, or what else? I just want something to coat the
> gears with that will last.
>
> Thanks Mark
>
>
> Mark,
> 58-MGA
> 60-MGA
> 76-MGB
> 74.5-MGBGT
> 60-BT7
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From "GM" <altec210 at yahoo.com>
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 22:18:21 -0500
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump
Really, if you're going to do this, then go ahead and add an oil pressure
sensor too so they don't pump fuel if there's low/no oil pressure.
GM
----- Original Message -----
> One small note here - you don't need to individually
> plumb each pump that is in parallel to the tank if you
> have a one intake / two way output valve on the inlet
> side of the pumps. You can buy electronically
> switched valves from suppliers like JCWhitney - they
> are usually used for cars that have a reserve petrol
> tank. With it being electronically switched... you
> can put it on the same circuit at the pump toggle....
> been thinking of doing this job for some time....
>
> Cheers,
>
> Alan
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From "John P. New" <jnew at hazelden.ca>
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: 20 Nov 2002 23:34:08 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ8 Erratic Tach
If anyone is interested, I have posted Dave's article on my website
(with permission from Dave). I have replaced Dave's hand-drawn diagrams
with computer graphics ("straightened the lines" as we used to say in
engineering), and the rest of the text is in html format, rather than
pdf.
You can take a look at the article at
http://members.rogers.com/jnew/austinhealey/RebuildingBJ8Tach/index.html
John P. New
London, Ontario, Canada
'67 BJ8
On Mon, 2002-11-11 at 00:36, David Masucci wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> A NUMBER of months ago, I sent out a notice to the list about my rebuild for
> the BJ8 Electronic tach. Since I sent out that notice, I ended up sick with
> a pinched nerve. Then my girlfriend and I...we had our little house on the
> market with a bad septic system. It made it hard to sell, but then suddenly
> out of the blue we got a buyer, and the house we wanted was still available.
> So we moved. Then I freakin' lost my job! So...it's been a little crazy for
> the last few months. I finally decided that I could get this done, and then
> my
> scanner died!!!!
>
> Anyway.............I finally got it done. If you remember I rebuilt the
> electronics of my tach with modern parts. It's been working perfectly now
> all this time....rock solid! The scans of my hand drawings aren't so hot, as
> I had to use my digital camera. But they are readable. So I wrote up some
> instructions, with a schematic and a parts list. The list includes generic
> part numbers, and the part numbers of the place that I ordered the parts. I
> also have hand drawings of a section of the circuit board where the
> transistors are mounted. I hope this thing is clear, and helpful. I will be
> happy to answer questions or clarify anything that I wasn't clear on. I take
> no responsibility for your results however. You're on your own.
>
> The document is in the form of a PDF file. But it came out kinda big....it's
> about 500K. You can download it from my site...the link is below. If that
> doesn't work for you, I can snail mail a printout of this. Let me know if
> you need that. Some people did at the time, but please let me know again.
>
> Anyway...here it is. Good luck, and I'm sorry for the delay.
>
> Click on the link below. Go to the BOTTOM of the page, and right click on
> the UPDATE to save the
> document.
> http://www.radiantsoundworks.com/AustinHealey.html
>
> Cheers,
> Dave Masucci
> BJ8
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 23:53:40 -0600
Subject: Re: Reassembly Lube for trany.
M L
> I would recommend against STP. Many years ago when some of us were racing
> Buy-Eye Sprites, a friend put STP in his transmission after an overhaul.
It
> made the synchronizers non-operational. It was too slippery.
>
> John Snyder
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 22:04:31 -0700
Subject: Re: Rallye Time Piece
Bill Lawrence
"Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" wrote:
> Charlie, my friend.
>
> Those rally clocks and gooseneck lights are frightfully expensive. A good set
>of
> Heuer (pronounced hoyer) clocks and the chrome mounting plates will run you a
> couple of grand. if you can find them. You are much better off with a couple
>of
> digital ones mounted to a clip board. Besides, it's not the size your clock,
>it's
> how you it.
>
> Bob Denton
>
> Charlie wrote:
>
> > The next TSD Rallye weekend will be in February. I would like to be
> > competitive this time around... I hate losing to all those Miata guys/gals!
> > Does anyone have a set-up that is user friendly for a novice. I've seen the
> > map light and time pieces that are attached to the passenger side dash on
>the
> > professional rallye cars... I think they look cool. Sources, tips/hints
>would
> > be greatly appreciated and cost is always a factor.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Charlie
> > '53 BN1 Red
> > charliestewart@hotmail.com
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 21:50:44 -0800
Subject: Re: BJ8 Erratic Tach
The instructions explicitly say not to replace the thermistor. However,
my tach's reading varies greatly--and linearly--with heat; i.e. the hotter
the ambient temp the greater the RPM readout. On a 90 deg F day the
tach may read several hundred RPM high at, say, 4,000 RPM. Seems
like replacing the thermistor would be in order to correct this problem.
Is there a particular reason not to replace the thermistor? Hard/impossible
to find a correct replacement?
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> List,
>
> If anyone is interested, I have posted Dave's article on my website
> (with permission from Dave). I have replaced Dave's hand-drawn diagrams
> with computer graphics ("straightened the lines" as we used to say in
> engineering), and the rest of the text is in html format, rather than
> pdf.
>
> You can take a look at the article at
> http://members.rogers.com/jnew/austinhealey/RebuildingBJ8Tach/index.html
>
> John P. New
> London, Ontario, Canada
> '67 BJ8
>
> On Mon, 2002-11-11 at 00:36, David Masucci wrote:
> > Hi All,
> >
> > A NUMBER of months ago, I sent out a notice to the list about my rebuild for
> > the BJ8 Electronic tach. Since I sent out that notice, I ended up sick with
> > a pinched nerve. Then my girlfriend and I...we had our little house on the
> > market with a bad septic system. It made it hard to sell, but then suddenly
> > out of the blue we got a buyer, and the house we wanted was still available.
> > So we moved. Then I freakin' lost my job! So...it's been a little crazy for
> > the last few months. I finally decided that I could get this done, and then
> > my
> > scanner died!!!!
> >
> > Anyway.............I finally got it done. If you remember I rebuilt the
> > electronics of my tach with modern parts. It's been working perfectly now
> > all this time....rock solid! The scans of my hand drawings aren't so hot, as
> > I had to use my digital camera. But they are readable. So I wrote up some
> > instructions, with a schematic and a parts list. The list includes generic
> > part numbers, and the part numbers of the place that I ordered the parts. I
> > also have hand drawings of a section of the circuit board where the
> > transistors are mounted. I hope this thing is clear, and helpful. I will be
> > happy to answer questions or clarify anything that I wasn't clear on. I take
> > no responsibility for your results however. You're on your own.
> >
> > The document is in the form of a PDF file. But it came out kinda big....it's
> > about 500K. You can download it from my site...the link is below. If that
> > doesn't work for you, I can snail mail a printout of this. Let me know if
> > you need that. Some people did at the time, but please let me know again.
> >
> > Anyway...here it is. Good luck, and I'm sorry for the delay.
> >
> > Click on the link below. Go to the BOTTOM of the page, and right click on
> > the UPDATE to save the
> > document.
> > http://www.radiantsoundworks.com/AustinHealey.html
> >
> > Cheers,
> > Dave Masucci
> > BJ8
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From Bob Haskell <bhaskell at iquest.net>
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2002 06:55:09 -0500
Subject: Healey coupe
Can anyone shed a little more light on the Austin-Healey 3000 coupe/hatchback
that's pictured/described (briefly) in the December 2002 issue of Classic &
Sports Car, page 9?
The description: "Spotted at the Eiffel-Klassik was this novel interpretation
of a Healey coupe. The car was not one of the two original prototypes overseen
by Donald Healey but a German enthusiast's dream GT. The top-hinged rear door
provides impressive boot space."
The car looks good - base on a 3000 convertible with wire wheels, rally vents
and a hatchback.
Bob Haskell
1960 Austin-Healey 3000 Mk I
1964 Austin Mini Cooper RHD
1980 MGB-LE
bhaskell@iquest.net
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From "John P. New" <jnew at hazelden.ca>
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: 21 Nov 2002 09:21:26 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ8 Erratic Tach
I have another Smiths Tachometer article from a Sunbeam Tiger site, and
I think this is the article on which Dave based his. (You can see it at
http://members.rogers.com/jnew/austinhealey/RebuildingSunbeamTigerSmithsTach/index.html)
In the former article, the author says that the most common cause of
temperature sensitivity is the failure of the main timing capacitor (the one
labelled C2 in both articles).
The only mention made of the thermistor is to change it if the tach
won't read above a certain RPM, regardless of engine speed.
I don't know enough about electronic circuits to comment, so I present
it as a possibility based on the original article.
John P. New
London, Ontario, Canada
'67 BJ8
On Thu, 2002-11-21 at 00:50, Bob Spidell wrote:
> Nicely done!
>
> The instructions explicitly say not to replace the thermistor. However,
> my tach's reading varies greatly--and linearly--with heat; i.e. the hotter
> the ambient temp the greater the RPM readout. On a 90 deg F day the
> tach may read several hundred RPM high at, say, 4,000 RPM. Seems
> like replacing the thermistor would be in order to correct this problem.
>
> Is there a particular reason not to replace the thermistor? Hard/impossible
> to find a correct replacement?
>
> bs
> *****************************************************
> Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
>(home)
> San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
> `67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
> *****************************************************
>
>
> > List,
> >
> > If anyone is interested, I have posted Dave's article on my website
> > (with permission from Dave). I have replaced Dave's hand-drawn diagrams
> > with computer graphics ("straightened the lines" as we used to say in
> > engineering), and the rest of the text is in html format, rather than
> > pdf.
> >
> > You can take a look at the article at
> > http://members.rogers.com/jnew/austinhealey/RebuildingBJ8Tach/index.html
> >
> > John P. New
> > London, Ontario, Canada
> > '67 BJ8
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From "Sid Bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2002 09:45:15 -0700
Subject: Carb rebuild
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2002 12:53:22 -0500
Subject: Re: Carb rebuild
Any reason not to have the machine shop bore and bush the bodies to the
original size? Just seems like a little "cleaner" approach.
Best of success,
--
John Miller, N4VU
Being popular is important. Otherwise people might not like you.
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From "matt wilson" <mwilson18 at cox.net>
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2002 10:30:06 -0800
Subject: Steering Wheel Removal - Non Adj.
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2002 10:30:38 -0800
Subject: Re: Carb rebuild
Your post is very timely - I am about to dismantle a pair of BJ8 carbs for a
friend!
The HD8's used in the BJ8 Healey have a 'PTFE' teflon bush between the carb
body and the throttle shaft. Most of these carbs that I have taken apart
only need the bush replaced, some have needed the shafts as well. None have
needed the bodies repaired. (Of course, this all goes out the window if
your carbs have been previously repaired without the bushes).
If you can avoid boring the bodies for oversized shafts, as well as having
to ream all of the fittings on the shafts, the job will be much easier (and
less expensive!) I would suggest dismantling the carbs (if you have not
already done so) in order to diagnose the condition of the parts. I have a
factory sheet that is invaluable in the installation / removal of the bushes
if you've never done it before. I could fax this sheet to you if you
provide a fax number.
Also, there is an specialist SU supplier in eastern Canada that I have dealt
with that has the bushes, as well as all the other stuff that you may need.
I would recommend Grose-Jet float chamber needle / seat assemblies, which he
can supply instead of the SU item - BJ8's particularly seem to benefit from
these, in my experience. He also has shafts pe-cut to the correct size if
you need them - the only thing you have to do is have them drilled for the
pins for all the linkage fittings.
I assume that you have some service literature as well - the parts list
pages of the carbs are really helpful.
Let me know if I can help further.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sid Bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, November 21, 2002 8:45 AM
Subject: Carb rebuild
I am starting a rebuild on my HD8's using oversized shafts. I am assuming
that a local machine shop can line bore the bodies at a reasonable price.
Will the oversized shaft cause any problems with other linkage parts? Any
observations or suggestions would be much appreciated.
Sid 65 BJ8
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From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2002 19:56:21 +0000
Subject: Re: Steering Wheel Removal - Non Adj.
I'm trying to remember this from memory, so I may have left something out. I'm
sure others will fill in the gaps or correct me if I'm in error.
--
Mark
59 BT7
Carson, CA
-
-
> Dear Healey Forum-
> I checked my manuals and I didn't see anything on how to remove my
> Non-Adjustable Steering wheel from my 1960 BT7. I am about to have the dash
> and dash fascia recovered. I'll also be putting a new/reproduction wheel on
> the car. Can anyone provide any tips for this process? Specifically how to
> remove the wheel and then maybe any tips on how to get the car ready for the
> shop that's doing this upholstery work? Does the fascia need to be removed to
> be recovered? Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
> Thanks,
> Matt-
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From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2002 20:01:21 +0000
Subject: re steering wheel removal
--
Mark
59 BT7
Carson, CA
-
-
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2002 15:25:28 EST
Subject: Re: Steering Wheel Removal - Non Adj.
=== DO NOT UNSCREW ANYTHING AT THE WHEEL.========
You need to looosen the nut/olive at the steering gearbox, Disconnect the
wires and push the whole assembly out though the steering wheel.
Once that is out, you loosen the large nut holding the wheel in place, and
remove the wheel.the dash is held on by a few screws and the gauges.
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From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2002 21:08:50 +0000
Subject: Re: Steering Wheel Removal - Non Adj.
--
Ira Erbs
Digs-4 Solutions
For training,network,PC and
Macintosh
"Learning without thinking is
labor lost; thinking
without learning is dangerous."
- Chinese Proverb
> On non-adjustable sterring cars, the only way to remove the wheel is by
> removing the whole stator tube assembly. there are no set screws at the
> wheel.
>
> === DO NOT UNSCREW ANYTHING AT THE WHEEL.========
>
>
> You need to looosen the nut/olive at the steering gearbox, Disconnect the
> wires and push the whole assembly out though the steering wheel.
>
> Once that is out, you loosen the large nut holding the wheel in place, and
> remove the wheel.the dash is held on by a few screws and the gauges.
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2002 17:59:17 -0500
Subject: Re: Steering Wheel Removal - Non Adj.
It is not necessary to loosen the olive nut to free up the wires. The olive
and nut merely form a seal for the steering box lubricant. Once the
trafficator is free by removing the 3 set screws the wires will slide
easily.
Keith Pennell
> Matt,
> Yes the facia will need to be removed.
> If I recall correctly you should be able to do this one of two ways: One
by
> removing the trafficator and wiring harness that goes through the steering
> column, or by disconnecting the trafficator harness at the steering wheel
and
> only only removing the trafficator and steering wheel itself. To just
remove
> the trafficator and steering wheel you'll need to:
> 1 there are 3 set screws on the steering wheel behind the spokes. Loosen
these.
> 2. You might need to loosen the olive at the steering box so that the
wires can
> be partially removed. Retighten the olive nut so you don't lose too much
> steering lube.
> 3. disassemble the trafficator and disconnect the 3 wires (tag the wires
so
> you know where they go)you should be able to pull the trafficator out now.
> 4. remove the cir-clip on the steering shaft, loosen the steering wheel
locking
> assembly and remove the steering wheel.
> To remove the entire assembly:
> 1. disconnect the wires behind the front grill coming through the steering
box.
> 2. loosen the "olive" nut that hold the wires in place at the steering box
(you
> will lose the fluid out of the steering box
> 3. there are 3 set screws on the steering wheel behind the spokes. Loosen
these.
> 4. the trafficator should be able to be removed now, but before you
completely
> remove the trafficator and the harness tie a string to the harness wires
so
> that you can pull the wires back when you reassemble it.
> 5. remove the cir-clip, loosen the adjusting nut , remove the steering
wheel.
>
> I'm trying to remember this from memory, so I may have left something out.
I'm
> sure others will fill in the gaps or correct me if I'm in error.
> --
> Mark
> 59 BT7
> Carson, CA
> -
> -
>
>
> > Dear Healey Forum-
> > I checked my manuals and I didn't see anything on how to remove my
> > Non-Adjustable Steering wheel from my 1960 BT7. I am about to have the
dash
> > and dash fascia recovered. I'll also be putting a new/reproduction
wheel on
> > the car. Can anyone provide any tips for this process? Specifically
how to
> > remove the wheel and then maybe any tips on how to get the car ready for
the
> > shop that's doing this upholstery work? Does the fascia need to be
removed to
> > be recovered? Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
> > Thanks,
> > Matt-
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2002 18:03:55 EST
Subject: Re: Steering Wheel Removal - Non Adj.
<< Mark and Matt,
It is not necessary to loosen the olive nut to free up the wires. The olive
and nut merely form a seal for the steering box lubricant. Once the
trafficator is free by removing the 3 set screws the wires will slide
easily.
Keith Pennell >>
Non-Adjustable cars do not have these set screws. The whole assembly needs to
come out.
The only way to get it out is to loosen the nut and olive and slide the tube
and trafficator switch together.
Rick
San Diego
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From bron <bron at rmci.net>
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2002 17:05:24 -0600
Subject: Re: Steering Wheel Removal - Non Adj.
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From "John P. New" <jnew at hazelden.ca>
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: 21 Nov 2002 18:10:10 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ8 Erratic Tach
I just looked at the mouser.com website, and the part number for the 3K
ohm resistor should be 293-3K. There is a typo in Dave's parts list for
that particular resistor.
Hope that helps.
John P. New
London, Ontario, Canada
'67 BJ8
On Wed, 2002-11-20 at 07:53, Roberta and Bob Johnson wrote:
> David,
>
> Thanks again for posting the rebuild instructions for the tach. I think that
> there may be a slight problem in the parts list. However, since I haven't
> taken the tach out since I received my parts from Mouser I can't be sure,
> but part no. 292-3.0K is a very tiny square, flat "chip" resistor with no
> pigtails. All of the others are the old style barrel shaped resistors. Is
> this right? (I'm posting this now before anyone else might order parts.)
>
> Bob Johnson
> BJ8
>
>
> > Hi All,
> >
> > A NUMBER of months ago, I sent out a notice to the list about my rebuild
> for
> > the BJ8 Electronic tach.
>
> <snip>
> >
> > The document is in the form of a PDF file. But it came out kinda
> big....it's
> > about 500K. You can download it from my site...the link is below. If that
> > doesn't work for you, I can snail mail a printout of this. Let me know if
> > you need that. Some people did at the time, but please let me know again.
> >
> > Anyway...here it is. Good luck, and I'm sorry for the delay.
> >
> > Click on the link below. Go to the BOTTOM of the page, and right click on
> > the UPDATE to save the
> > document.
> > http://www.radiantsoundworks.com/AustinHealey.html
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From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2002 18:53:56 EST
Subject: Re: A-H 3000 parts was: wanted...Follow Up
I previously posted:
______________________
John/List:
I just stumbled on a guy that's got several big Healeys and lots of parts for
sale. He's in Virginia. He has a list at:
http://www.classic-autos.net/
________________________
I have received information from a fellow list member that I would classify
as "neutral-to-negative" feedback.
As always, "buyer beware".
Regards to all.
Steve & Brutus
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2002 19:06:21 -0500
Subject: RE: Steering Wheel Removal - Non Adj.
I believe a non adjustable column is being discussed.
A very different kettle of fish.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Keith Pennell
Sent: 21-Nov-02 5:59 PM
To: fawcett1187@attbi.com; matt wilson
Cc: Healey Forum
Subject: Re: Steering Wheel Removal - Non Adj.
Mark and Matt,
It is not necessary to loosen the olive nut to free up the wires. The
olive
and nut merely form a seal for the steering box lubricant. Once the
trafficator is free by removing the 3 set screws the wires will slide
easily.
Keith Pennell
> Matt,
> Yes the facia will need to be removed.
> If I recall correctly you should be able to do this one of two ways:
One
by
> removing the trafficator and wiring harness that goes through the
steering
> column, or by disconnecting the trafficator harness at the steering
wheel
and
> only only removing the trafficator and steering wheel itself. To just
remove
> the trafficator and steering wheel you'll need to:
> 1 there are 3 set screws on the steering wheel behind the spokes.
Loosen
these.
> 2. You might need to loosen the olive at the steering box so that the
wires can
> be partially removed. Retighten the olive nut so you don't lose too
much
> steering lube.
> 3. disassemble the trafficator and disconnect the 3 wires (tag the
wires
so
> you know where they go)you should be able to pull the trafficator out
now.
> 4. remove the cir-clip on the steering shaft, loosen the steering
wheel
locking
> assembly and remove the steering wheel.
> To remove the entire assembly:
> 1. disconnect the wires behind the front grill coming through the
steering
box.
> 2. loosen the "olive" nut that hold the wires in place at the steering
box
(you
> will lose the fluid out of the steering box
> 3. there are 3 set screws on the steering wheel behind the spokes.
Loosen
these.
> 4. the trafficator should be able to be removed now, but before you
completely
> remove the trafficator and the harness tie a string to the harness
wires
so
> that you can pull the wires back when you reassemble it.
> 5. remove the cir-clip, loosen the adjusting nut , remove the steering
wheel.
>
> I'm trying to remember this from memory, so I may have left something
out.
I'm
> sure others will fill in the gaps or correct me if I'm in error.
> --
> Mark
> 59 BT7
> Carson, CA
> -
> -
>
>
> > Dear Healey Forum-
> > I checked my manuals and I didn't see anything on how to remove my
> > Non-Adjustable Steering wheel from my 1960 BT7. I am about to have
the
dash
> > and dash fascia recovered. I'll also be putting a new/reproduction
wheel on
> > the car. Can anyone provide any tips for this process?
Specifically
how to
> > remove the wheel and then maybe any tips on how to get the car ready
for
the
> > shop that's doing this upholstery work? Does the fascia need to be
removed to
> > be recovered? Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
> > Thanks,
> > Matt-
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FROM: Norman Cay <normcay at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2002 16:11:33 -0800
SUBJECT: It is my intent, and always.
The only time I was not in Ukiah since well before the Eskay contract was
awarded was the brief period that I went to Michigan to bury my father and see
to my mothers welfare.
My net income through September this year has been $13162.45. This is
approximately the same for Jerry and Dave.
My monthly bills are approximately $4200.
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type application/octet-stream which
had a name of intent.bat]
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From "James Sailer" <heliskier at direcway.com>
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2002 17:47:10 -0700
Subject: My BJ8 Resto Status & Misc.
All in all it is going well.. (Running gear was completely rebuilt before I
dissassembled her so that is nice...) I wish I had more time at the
moment.....
I have my chassis almost to the rolling chassis stage... (minus a complete
dash and gas tank..) which still have to be dealt with..... Steering box
now has new seals and is awaiting to go in... a new differential seal has
arrived and after the diff installation the rest of the rear can be
assembled.. The front suspension went in like a dream after I made the
lower wishbone bushes fit... such is life.... but a good reminder to check
fit before installation....
I am still struggling with what to do with the "tar paper" like material on
the inside of the firewall.. The only pre-made is $40 which seemed awfully
high... so I was going to try and reconsition my original pieces... hmmmmm
Am I getting cheap here????
I am also in a quandry what to do with my hubs.... I have 2 new ones... all
silver plated and shiny... and 2 old ones that are fine but dingy and
brown... thinking of taking them up for zinc plating to match the new
ones.... hmmmm... getting retentive here.....
I picked up my grill surround, bonnet chrome peices and misc chrome nuts and
studs from the plater today... all I can say is WOW!.....
As for the misc.... My 2003 Mini Cooper S (BRG with lots of goodies) is
scheduled for production december 20th... I have waited over a year now (As
I wanted to wait for certain options) .. It will arrive In February I
suspect and need to wait a bit for snow to clear to really have fun with
it.... Ed Driver... yes the cold winter has hit here also... (But alas so
has skiing in the Tetons).. grin....
I am planning a detailed photo shoot of the BJ8 chasis after I get it all
complete..... and before panels...
Well all for now... Thanks to the list (and Gary and Roger's book), as well
as a myriad of other sources, my video I took as I dissassembled the car,
etc..... she is really turning out nice..and a nice DRIVER... .
jim Sailer
66 BJ8 - coming along
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2002 17:27:15 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Carb rebuild
HOLD YOUR HORSES!!!
The HD8 is different to most other SU's in that it
does not use a brass bush and the throttle shaft does
not directly contact the throttle body in any way.
For this reason it is unlikely that there is a need to
bore out the throttle body.
All you need to do is to simply get a new teflon
bushing (british car specialists sells them, amongst
other healey specialists) and fit it to the carb using
a new standard sized throttle shaft.
If you bore out your throttle body to fit an oversized
throttle shaft, it should ONLY be done if the throttle
body's throttle shaft holes are damaged in some way,
otherwise just leave them alone...
Don't ruin your HD8s!!! No need to fit oversized
throttle shafts.....
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Sid Bronson <bron@rmci.net> wrote:
> I am starting a rebuild on my HD8's using oversized
> shafts. I am assuming
> that a local machine shop can line bore the bodies
> at a reasonable price.
> Will the oversized shaft cause any problems with
> other linkage parts? Any
> observations or suggestions would be much
> appreciated.
> Sid 65 BJ8
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2002 17:28:20 -0800
Subject: Re: Carb rebuild
The float needle used will have no bearing on the horsepower or performance
of the engine as long as the jet is the correct size for the application and
will flow enough fuel.
I as well as several friends have solved float chamber flooding problems
over the years by installing the Grose-Jet - it uses a caged ball valve
arrangement in place of the needle and seat design of the original SU part.
It's been my experience that the HD8's have more of a tendency to flood,
perhaps because of the larger float chamber. It's possible for the float
needle to get cocked in its housing, particularly if the chambers are
emptied for winter storage. (Everyone does that don't they?) The caged
ball design eliminates that.
I routinely use Grose-Jets in every SU I own - both Healeys and an MGB, and
install them in any other SU carb equipped car that I help out with.
If your carbs don't flood at all, you don't need to make any changes. If
you experience flooding and can rule out the other causes (high fuel
pressure, dirt in the carbs, etc), it's easy enough to make the change later
with the car on the road.
Earl
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Giroux" <mgiroux@sgl.com>
To: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
Sent: Thursday, November 21, 2002 11:29 AM
Subject: Re: Carb rebuild
Earl,
When you say "BJ8's particularly seem to benefit from these, in my
experience" , Do you mean that the HP is increased or just the overall
response of the engine. The reason I am asking is that I hope to soon have
my engine dyno tested, it was rebuilt to BJ8 specs last fall with HD8 carbs
which I have rebuilt. When test is done I will share results with list as
promised to list last fall. If you think that Grose-Jet float chamber
needle / seat assemblies will help with HP and these are not too expensive
I would like the name of your contact in Canada as I am in Ottawa.
Michael Giroux
62 BT7(unknown miles), 71 TR6(100k miles), 81 Malibu(300k km) (all standard
trans)
At 01:30 PM 11/21/02, you wrote:
>Sid:
>
>Your post is very timely - I am about to dismantle a pair of BJ8 carbs for
a
>friend!
>
>The HD8's used in the BJ8 Healey have a 'PTFE' teflon bush between the carb
>body and the throttle shaft. Most of these carbs that I have taken apart
>only need the bush replaced, some have needed the shafts as well. None
have
>needed the bodies repaired. (Of course, this all goes out the window if
>your carbs have been previously repaired without the bushes).
>
>If you can avoid boring the bodies for oversized shafts, as well as having
>to ream all of the fittings on the shafts, the job will be much easier (and
>less expensive!) I would suggest dismantling the carbs (if you have not
>already done so) in order to diagnose the condition of the parts. I have a
>factory sheet that is invaluable in the installation / removal of the
bushes
>if you've never done it before. I could fax this sheet to you if you
>provide a fax number.
>
>Also, there is an specialist SU supplier in eastern Canada that I have
dealt
>with that has the bushes, as well as all the other stuff that you may need.
>I would recommend Grose-Jet float chamber needle / seat assemblies, which
he
>can supply instead of the SU item - BJ8's particularly seem to benefit from
>these, in my experience. He also has shafts pe-cut to the correct size if
>you need them - the only thing you have to do is have them drilled for the
>pins for all the linkage fittings.
>
>I assume that you have some service literature as well - the parts list
>pages of the carbs are really helpful.
>
>Let me know if I can help further.
>
>Earl Kagna
>Victoria, B. C. Canada
>'62 BT7 tri-carb
>'67 BJ8
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Sid Bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
>To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Thursday, November 21, 2002 8:45 AM
>Subject: Carb rebuild
>
>
>I am starting a rebuild on my HD8's using oversized shafts. I am assuming
>that a local machine shop can line bore the bodies at a reasonable price.
>Will the oversized shaft cause any problems with other linkage parts? Any
>observations or suggestions would be much appreciated.
>Sid 65 BJ8
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2002 17:42:43 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Steering Wheel Removal - Non Adj.
Non adjustable columns are different than removing the
wheel to an adjustable column. Unfortunately for you
it is more difficult.
1) Remove the indicator/horn wires from the main loom
where they connect by the radiator
2) remove the brass olive nut & olive (underneath the
nut) on the front of the steering box. This nut faces
forward (ie it is not on top of the box)
3) undo the two (or three) allen (or slotted) screws
located in your steering wheel's hub.
4) pull out the trafficator. It should come right
out. Note that oil will be leaking out of your
steering box by now...
5) remove the circlip that retains the steering wheel
.... and...
Voila - you should be able to remove your steering
wheel.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net> wrote:
> Dear Healey Forum-
> I checked my manuals and I didn't see anything on
> how to remove my
> Non-Adjustable Steering wheel from my 1960 BT7. I
> am about to have the dash
> and dash fascia recovered. I'll also be putting a
> new/reproduction wheel on
> the car. Can anyone provide any tips for this
> process? Specifically how to
> remove the wheel and then maybe any tips on how to
> get the car ready for the
> shop that's doing this upholstery work? Does the
> fascia need to be removed to
> be recovered? Any insight would be greatly
> appreciated.
> Thanks,
> Matt-
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From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2002 17:55:50 -0800
Subject: HS6 to HD8
Thanks,
John Loftus
http://www.loftusdesign.net/virtual_healey.htm
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2002 21:52:53 EST
Subject: Re: Steering Wheel Removal - Non Adj.
<< 3) undo the two (or three) allen (or slotted) screws
located in your steering wheel's hub. >>
Non-adjustable wheels DO NOT HAVE these set screws.
I repeat because you do not want to undo any screws at the trafficator switch
if you don't need to. It just makes the job difficult.
It's very simple to loosen the olive and slide everything out as one piece.
Just as the service manuals say to do.
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2002 18:54:49 -0800
Subject: Grose Jets
I have been told by Hemphill and others that the Grose Jets currently
available are unacceptable, and not to buy them. I had put a set in my
tri-carb, 2 seat car, and have continuous problems w/ float chamber
over-flow. Am about to switch back to the original style jets.
Comments?
John Snyder
> I as well as several friends have solved float chamber flooding problems
> over the years by installing the Grose-Jet - it uses a caged ball valve
> arrangement in place of the needle and seat design of the original SU
part.
> I routinely use Grose-Jets in every SU I own - both Healeys and an MGB,
and
> install them in any other SU carb equipped car that I help out with.
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2002 20:10:17 -0700
Subject: Re: Steering Wheel Removal - Non Adj.
There are no set screws in the non-adjustable assembly, their only purpose being
to hold the switch base plate in place, which function is accomplished for the
non adjustable switches by having the plate welded to the solid stator tube.
Also, there is no circlip holding the wheel in place on the spline. that is a
feature of the adjustable columns used to allow the wheel to , well, adjust...
The non-adjustable assemblys use a large hex nut threaded onto the end of the
column tube.
VOILA! (depending on the condition of the splines) may only occur after you have
used a suitable puller to remove the wheel.
Bill Lawrence
Blue One Hundred wrote:
> Matt -
>
> Non adjustable columns are different than removing the
> wheel to an adjustable column. Unfortunately for you
> it is more difficult.
>
> 1) Remove the indicator/horn wires from the main loom
> where they connect by the radiator
>
> 2) remove the brass olive nut & olive (underneath the
> nut) on the front of the steering box. This nut faces
> forward (ie it is not on top of the box)
>
> 3) undo the two (or three) allen (or slotted) screws
> located in your steering wheel's hub.
>
> 4) pull out the trafficator. It should come right
> out. Note that oil will be leaking out of your
> steering box by now...
>
> 5) remove the circlip that retains the steering wheel
> .... and...
>
> Voila - you should be able to remove your steering
> wheel.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
>
> --- matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net> wrote:
> > Dear Healey Forum-
> > I checked my manuals and I didn't see anything on
> > how to remove my
> > Non-Adjustable Steering wheel from my 1960 BT7. I
> > am about to have the dash
> > and dash fascia recovered. I'll also be putting a
> > new/reproduction wheel on
> > the car. Can anyone provide any tips for this
> > process? Specifically how to
> > remove the wheel and then maybe any tips on how to
> > get the car ready for the
> > shop that's doing this upholstery work? Does the
> > fascia need to be removed to
> > be recovered? Any insight would be greatly
> > appreciated.
> > Thanks,
> > Matt-
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2002 19:34:07 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Steering Wheel Removal - Non Adj.
I always get the two types confused... I stand
corrected - no screws and no circlip.... sorry!!
Alan
--- ynotink <ynotink@qwest.net> wrote:
> You were right up to instruction #3, however:
>
> There are no set screws in the non-adjustable
> assembly, their only purpose being
> to hold the switch base plate in place, which
> function is accomplished for the
> non adjustable switches by having the plate welded
> to the solid stator tube.
>
> Also, there is no circlip holding the wheel in place
> on the spline. that is a
> feature of the adjustable columns used to allow the
> wheel to , well, adjust...
> The non-adjustable assemblys use a large hex nut
> threaded onto the end of the
> column tube.
>
> VOILA! (depending on the condition of the splines)
> may only occur after you have
> used a suitable puller to remove the wheel.
>
> Bill Lawrence
>
>
> Blue One Hundred wrote:
>
> > Matt -
> >
> > Non adjustable columns are different than removing
> the
> > wheel to an adjustable column. Unfortunately for
> you
> > it is more difficult.
> >
> > 1) Remove the indicator/horn wires from the main
> loom
> > where they connect by the radiator
> >
> > 2) remove the brass olive nut & olive (underneath
> the
> > nut) on the front of the steering box. This nut
> faces
> > forward (ie it is not on top of the box)
> >
> > 3) undo the two (or three) allen (or slotted)
> screws
> > located in your steering wheel's hub.
> >
> > 4) pull out the trafficator. It should come right
> > out. Note that oil will be leaking out of your
> > steering box by now...
> >
> > 5) remove the circlip that retains the steering
> wheel
> > .... and...
> >
> > Voila - you should be able to remove your steering
> > wheel.
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > Alan
> >
> > '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
> >
> > --- matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net> wrote:
> > > Dear Healey Forum-
> > > I checked my manuals and I didn't see anything
> on
> > > how to remove my
> > > Non-Adjustable Steering wheel from my 1960 BT7.
> I
> > > am about to have the dash
> > > and dash fascia recovered. I'll also be putting
> a
> > > new/reproduction wheel on
> > > the car. Can anyone provide any tips for this
> > > process? Specifically how to
> > > remove the wheel and then maybe any tips on how
> to
> > > get the car ready for the
> > > shop that's doing this upholstery work? Does
> the
> > > fascia need to be removed to
> > > be recovered? Any insight would be greatly
> > > appreciated.
> > > Thanks,
> > > Matt-
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2002 19:41:42 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Grose Jets
Oh boy... I have to agree about the new Grose Jets.
I have an old set of Grose jets on my old HD8s (about
10 years old) - they never failed me and always worked
perfectly.
Now... I put on a new pair of HD8s on my car about two
years ago and bought new grose jets - they DID NOT
WORK AT ALL.
They were always shutting the fuel flow off all the
time, and I'd have to blow compressed air through them
to get the little balls dislodged. My fuel line has a
proper filter on it so it wasn't getting dirty - the
grose jets were not made correctly - the main ball
would seat too firmly in the brass housing and then
have to be forced out. It was maddening trying to
figure out the problem - it's a bizarre one to
diagnose as you'd think your float jets wouldn't
arbitrarily cut off fuel flow.... My fuel pump
pressure is proper for the car too, so it wasn't weak
fuel pressure that was causing the problem....
I'd stay away from new Grose Jets!!!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- John Snyder <johnahsn@olypen.com> wrote:
> Hi Earl,
>
> I have been told by Hemphill and others that the
> Grose Jets currently
> available are unacceptable, and not to buy them. I
> had put a set in my
> tri-carb, 2 seat car, and have continuous problems
> w/ float chamber
> over-flow. Am about to switch back to the original
> style jets.
>
> Comments?
>
> John Snyder
>
> > I as well as several friends have solved float
> chamber flooding problems
> > over the years by installing the Grose-Jet - it
> uses a caged ball valve
> > arrangement in place of the needle and seat design
> of the original SU
> part.
> > I routinely use Grose-Jets in every SU I own -
> both Healeys and an MGB,
> and
> > install them in any other SU carb equipped car
> that I help out with.
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From "Mark Endicott" <mark at nashvilletn.org>
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2002 22:33:03 -0600
Subject: Re: Grose Jets ( Another Opinion)
Mark
Nashville
BN1
> John -
>
> Oh boy... I have to agree about the new Grose Jets.
> I'd stay away from new Grose Jets!!!
>
> Alan
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2002 23:43:27 -0500
Subject: Re: My BJ8 Resto Status & Misc.
Keith Pennell
> I am also in a quandry what to do with my hubs.... I have 2 new ones...
all
> silver plated and shiny... and 2 old ones that are fine but dingy and
> brown... thinking of taking them up for zinc plating to match the new
> ones.... hmmmm... getting retentive here.....
> jim Sailer
> 66 BJ8 - coming along
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From "Sid Bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
From: Earl Kagna <kags@shaw.ca>
To: Michael Giroux <mgiroux@SGL.COM>
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2002 21:55:21 -0700
Subject: Re: Carb rebuild
> >Your post is very timely - I am about to dismantle a pair of BJ8 carbs
for
> a
> >friend!
> >
> >The HD8's used in the BJ8 Healey have a 'PTFE' teflon bush between the
carb
> >body and the throttle shaft. Most of these carbs that I have taken apart
> >only need the bush replaced, some have needed the shafts as well. None
> have
> >needed the bodies repaired. (Of course, this all goes out the window if
> >your carbs have been previously repaired without the bushes).
> >
> >If you can avoid boring the bodies for oversized shafts, as well as
having
> >to ream all of the fittings on the shafts, the job will be much easier
(and
> >less expensive!) I would suggest dismantling the carbs (if you have not
> >already done so) in order to diagnose the condition of the parts. I have
a
> >factory sheet that is invaluable in the installation / removal of the
> bushes
> >if you've never done it before. I could fax this sheet to you if you
> >provide a fax number.
> >
> >Also, there is an specialist SU supplier in eastern Canada that I have
> dealt
> >with that has the bushes, as well as all the other stuff that you may
need.
> >I would recommend Grose-Jet float chamber needle / seat assemblies, which
> he
> >can supply instead of the SU item - BJ8's particularly seem to benefit
from
> >these, in my experience. He also has shafts pe-cut to the correct size
if
> >you need them - the only thing you have to do is have them drilled for
the
> >pins for all the linkage fittings.
> >
> >I assume that you have some service literature as well - the parts list
> >pages of the carbs are really helpful.
> >
> >Let me know if I can help further.
> >
> >Earl Kagna
> >Victoria, B. C. Canada
> >'62 BT7 tri-carb
> >'67 BJ8
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Sid Bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
> >To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> >Sent: Thursday, November 21, 2002 8:45 AM
> >Subject: Carb rebuild
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Earl Kagna <kags@shaw.ca>
To: Michael Giroux <mgiroux@SGL.COM>
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2002 21:02:56 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Grose Jets ( Another Opinion)
That's interesting. What type of changes got put in
place? I bought my (new) grose jets in early 2000 or
late 1999 I think, so if there's been some changes
since then, that's good news.
I always preferred grose jets much better than the
standard jets which one way or another always get
stuck open and waste gas...
Any info from you or the list on this matter would be
great to hear. Where did you get your grose jets?
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Mark Endicott <mark@nashvilletn.org> wrote:
> I have another opinion on Grose Jets, I too had
> problems with some a few
> years ago but decided to give a new pair a home in
> my BN1 (H6's). When I
> looked into it last year I found that there had been
> a change in the
> ownership (or some company changes) recently and
> that the new jets were once
> again ok. I installed them in my carbs in September
> of 2001 and they have
> worked flawlessly since. I was having some overflow
> problems with standard
> jets with a slightly over pressure fuel pump, 3.5
> lbs pressure. Maybe I
> have just been lucky but they have kept all of the
> gas in the carbs, only
> wish there was something similar to keep the oil in
> the sump.
>
> Mark
> Nashville
> BN1
>
> > John -
> >
> > Oh boy... I have to agree about the new Grose
> Jets.
> > I'd stay away from new Grose Jets!!!
> >
> > Alan
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From "Sid Bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
From: Earl Kagna <kags@shaw.ca>
To: Michael Giroux <mgiroux@SGL.COM>
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2002 22:09:12 -0700
Subject: Re: Grose Jets ( Another Opinion)
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From Jerry Rude <gdrude at pacbell.net>
From: Earl Kagna <kags@shaw.ca>
To: Michael Giroux <mgiroux@SGL.COM>
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2002 21:39:34 -0800
Subject: Left Rear Shock for 6 cyl needed
Anyone have a left rear shock in usable condition which they would like
to sell?? Mine has the holes elongated severely., and I don't think its
repairable.
Jerry Rude
67 BJ8
PS, I believe any of the 6 cylinder car left rear shocks will fit.
jr
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Earl Kagna <kags@shaw.ca>
To: Michael Giroux <mgiroux@SGL.COM>
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2002 22:39:54 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: My BJ8 Resto Status & Misc.
The hubs can easily be replated without plating the
area where the bearing race goes - just tell your
plating shop what you want them to do.
Regards,
Alan
--- Keith Pennell <pennell@whro.net> wrote:
> Question to the list: Might plating of the hubs
> cause some tolerances to
> become intolerable? That is, if bearing races are
> not removed first, I
> should think that the plating would be too rough for
> a bearing. If they are
> removed and then replaced afterwards, there may be
> difficulty in getting the
> races back in. Dunno. Any thoughts out there?
>
> Keith Pennell
>
> > I am also in a quandry what to do with my hubs....
> I have 2 new ones...
> all
> > silver plated and shiny... and 2 old ones that are
> fine but dingy and
> > brown... thinking of taking them up for zinc
> plating to match the new
> > ones.... hmmmm... getting retentive here.....
> > jim Sailer
> > 66 BJ8 - coming along
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From "rob" <rob at iwjlaw.com>
From: Earl Kagna <kags@shaw.ca>
To: Michael Giroux <mgiroux@SGL.COM>
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2002 23:40:31 -0800
Subject: BJ8 Transmission O/D Rebuild.
I'm just in the process of having my transmission/overdrive rebuilt. The
fellow doing the rebuild has advised that I need to locate the spring
tension washers (curved washers) that fit between the bell housing and input
gear and between the o/d and rear bearing. Would anyone happen to have
spares of these curved washers available for purchase at a reasonable price?
If so, please contact me off list. TIA.
Regards,
Rob
'65 BJ8
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From Magnus Karlsson <492karlsson at telia.com>
From: Earl Kagna <kags@shaw.ca>
To: Michael Giroux <mgiroux@SGL.COM>
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 2002 11:09:19 +0100
Subject: Re: HS6 to HD8
Magnus Karlsson
SWEDEN
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From "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino at ripnet.com>
From: Earl Kagna <kags@shaw.ca>
To: Michael Giroux <mgiroux@SGL.COM>
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 2002 10:34:23 -0500
Subject: grose jets
Carl
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From "James Sailer" <heliskier at direcway.com>
From: Earl Kagna <kags@shaw.ca>
To: Michael Giroux <mgiroux@SGL.COM>
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 2002 08:58:08 -0700
Subject: RE: My BJ8 Resto Status & Misc.
Best to all.
jim Sailer
-----Original Message-----
From: Blue One Hundred [mailto:international_investor@yahoo.com]
Sent: Thursday, November 21, 2002 11:40 PM
To: Keith Pennell; James Sailer; Healey List
Subject: Re: My BJ8 Resto Status & Misc.
Keith -
The hubs can easily be replated without plating the
area where the bearing race goes - just tell your
plating shop what you want them to do.
Regards,
Alan
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From "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: Earl Kagna <kags@shaw.ca>
To: Michael Giroux <mgiroux@SGL.COM>
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 2002 11:16:24 -0600
Subject: Friday humor too good let slip by.
HU'S ON FIRST
By James Sherman
(We take you now to the Oval Office. GWB is sitting at
his desk.
Condoleeza Rice enters)
George: Condi! Nice to see you. What's happening?
Condi: Sir, I have the report here about the new leader
of China.
George: Great. Lay it on me.
Condi: Hu is the new leader of China.
George: That's what I want to know.
Condi: That's what I'm telling you.
George: That's what I'm asking you. Who is the new
leader of
China?
Condi: Yes.
George: I mean the fellow's name.
Condi: Hu.
George: The guy in China.
Condi: Hu.
George: The new leader of China.
Condi: Hu.
George: The Chinaman!
Condi: Hu is leading China.
George: Now whaddya' asking me for?
Condi: I'm telling you Hu is leading China.
George: Well, I'm asking you. Who is leading China?
Condi: That's the man's name.
George: That's who's name?
Condi: Yes.
George: Will you or will you not tell me the name of the
new
leader of China?
Condi: Yes, sir.
George: Yassir? Yassir Arafat is in China? I thought
he was in
the Middle East.
Condi: That's correct.
George: Then who is in China?
Condi: Yes, sir.
George: Yassir is in China?
Condi: No, sir.
George: Then who is?
Condi: Yes, sir.
George: Yassir?
Condi: No, sir.
George: Look, Condi. I need to know the name of the new
leader of
China. Get me the Secretary General of the U.N. on the phone.
Condi: Kofi?
George: No, thanks.
Condi: You want Kofi?
George: No.
Condi: You don't want Kofi.
George: No. But now that you mention it, I could use a
glass of
milk. And then get me the U.N.
Condi: Yes, sir.
George: Not Yassir! The guy at the U.N.
Condi: Kofi?
George: Milk! Will you please make the call?
Condi: And call who?
George: Who is the guy at the U.N?
Condi: Hu is the guy in China.
George: Will you stay out of China?!
Condi: Yes, sir.
George: And stay out of the Middle East! Just get me
the guy at
the U.N.
Condi: Kofi.
George: All right! With cream and two sugars. Now get
on the
phone.
(Condi picks up the phone.)
Condi: Rice, here.
George: Rice? Good idea. And a couple of egg rolls,
too. Maybe
we should send some to the guy in China. And the Middle East.
Can you get
Chinese food in the Middle East?
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: Earl Kagna <kags@shaw.ca>
To: Michael Giroux <mgiroux@SGL.COM>
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 2002 11:32:08 EST
Subject: Re: Steering Wheel Removal - Non Adj.
<< Which brings me to my second question. A Healey buddy of mine told
me that someone, somewhere was making a hub adaptor for a Derrington
steering wheel on a Big Healey. Anyone know what company/individual is
doing this? Contact info? >>
Mota Lita and others have been making adapters/wheels for years. The mota
Lita adapter works with many of the derrington repros available through many
dealers.
the Derrington style wheel on my car was made by Mota Lita.
Both the regular Mota Lita, and the Derrington Style Mota Lita can be seen on
my car:
http://members.aol.com/wilko/derrington.html
The trafficator switch assembly for non-adjustable wheels is much more
expensive and not as available as the adjustable style.
Rick
San Diego
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: Earl Kagna <kags@shaw.ca>
To: Michael Giroux <mgiroux@SGL.COM>
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 2002 11:32:43 -0500
Subject: BJ8 Tach and resistor
The 3 kohm resistor shown on the schematic is NOT critical. The nominal
value you'll most easily find is 2.7 kohms, and the color code for it on the
first three bands is red-violet-red, with a possible silver of gold fourth
band. Some film resistors do not use a color code at all, just printed
nomenclature.
Because the resistor is in series with the calibration pot, the
potentiometer will let you make an adjustment anyway, so there's no need to
find a precision 3 kohm resistor. The 3 kohm value is NOT a nominal value,
and therefore may be more difficult to locate, so why bother?
Get an ordinary axial leaded 1/2-W resistor from Radio Shack, et al, and
don't fret about chip resistors, surface-mount parts etc. that are difficult
to deal with.
If you're really unable to find one, let me know and I'll get you one.
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Meanie"
Former owner 1957 100-6 and 1967 BJ8
Radio AI2Q
>..........I just looked at the mouser.com website, and the part number for
the 3K
ohm resistor should be 293-3K. There is a typo in Dave's parts list for
that particular resistor.
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From XK120FHCSE at aol.com
From: Earl Kagna <kags@shaw.ca>
To: Michael Giroux <mgiroux@SGL.COM>
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 2002 11:55:59 EST
Subject: Classic & Sportscar Mags, FREE, U pick up, Loc in CT.
Only conditions are...
1. You have to pick them up. Too heavy and expensive to pack and ship.
Located in Glastonbury, CT. (about 10 minutes from Hartford).
2. First person to e-mail back with a specific pick-up time between now and
noon Sunday (11/24) wins the right to have this rare collection reside at
their house! Bring several boxes.
3. If nobody is able to pick up the magazines by noon Sunday, I could take
the magazines to the local Mailboxes Etc. next week provided you make credit
card arrangements with them in advance to pay for them to pack and ship the
magazines to you.
These are great magazines as anyone familiar with them knows.
RLR
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From "paul Jennings" <paul at jenningsok.freeserve.co.uk>
From: Earl Kagna <kags@shaw.ca>
To: Michael Giroux <mgiroux@SGL.COM>
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 2002 16:51:44 -0000
Subject: Ignition Light
Thanks
Paul Jennings
'63 BJ7 goes by the name Denise - don't ask
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: Earl Kagna <kags@shaw.ca>
To: Michael Giroux <mgiroux@SGL.COM>
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 2002 09:09:03 -0800
Subject: Re: Grose Jets
I too am aware that the company has had some problems - the product was
faulty, the product was not available for awhile, family company having some
difficulties, etc. etc.
I guess that I've been lucky. The Grose-jets in the BJ8 have been there for
at least 10 years, and probably about 50,000 miles - still working
perfectly. They were installed to correct a persistent flooding problem
that nothing else would fix.
The others that I've used in the last year or so have also been fine and
look exactly like the older ones. I think what happened is that the design
was changed a few years back using a much smaller check ball (similar to the
original part that Volvo used in their SU carbs years ago), and that didn't
work. They have now changed back to the original style, and the product
works fine.
I guess it's going to be up to the purchaser to determine that the supplier
has the updated product in stock. Bear in mind that if any suppliers had
problems with them and had to refund a whole bunch of customers, it stands
to reason that they are going to be biased against Grose-jets - can't really
blame them!
Based on my experience, I still highly recommend them. I'll pass on the
name of the supplier ( eastern Canada) that I used to anyone that requests
it, but I'd better check with him first! I'll do that today.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, November 21, 2002 6:54 PM
Subject: Grose Jets
Hi Earl,
I have been told by Hemphill and others that the Grose Jets currently
available are unacceptable, and not to buy them. I had put a set in my
tri-carb, 2 seat car, and have continuous problems w/ float chamber
over-flow. Am about to switch back to the original style jets.
Comments?
John Snyder
> I as well as several friends have solved float chamber flooding problems
> over the years by installing the Grose-Jet - it uses a caged ball valve
> arrangement in place of the needle and seat design of the original SU
part.
> I routinely use Grose-Jets in every SU I own - both Healeys and an MGB,
and
> install them in any other SU carb equipped car that I help out with.
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From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
From: Earl Kagna <kags@shaw.ca>
To: Michael Giroux <mgiroux@SGL.COM>
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 2002 09:16:54 -0800
Subject: Re: Grose Jets
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, November 21, 2002 6:54 PM
Subject: Grose Jets
> Hi Earl,
>
> I have been told by Hemphill and others that the Grose Jets currently
> available are unacceptable, and not to buy them. I had put a set in my
> tri-carb, 2 seat car, and have continuous problems w/ float chamber
> over-flow. Am about to switch back to the original style jets.
>
> Comments?
>
> John Snyder
>
> > I as well as several friends have solved float chamber flooding problems
> > over the years by installing the Grose-Jet - it uses a caged ball valve
> > arrangement in place of the needle and seat design of the original SU
> part.
> > I routinely use Grose-Jets in every SU I own - both Healeys and an MGB,
> and
> > install them in any other SU carb equipped car that I help out with.
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: Earl Kagna <kags@shaw.ca>
To: Michael Giroux <mgiroux@SGL.COM>
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 2002 12:50:01 EST
Subject: Re: Ignition Light
To polarize the generator you need to disconnect the generator and TOUCH a
hot wire from the brown wire at the fuse box to the SMALL terminal on the
generator. There will be a small spark when you do this. Then connect the
wires back up to the generator and check the charge rate.
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
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From Troy Thames <TThames at barnwell-whaley.com>
From: Earl Kagna <kags@shaw.ca>
To: Michael Giroux <mgiroux@SGL.COM>
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 2002 13:51:19 -0500
Subject: Rear Spring Removal?
Troy
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From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: Earl Kagna <kags@shaw.ca>
To: Michael Giroux <mgiroux@SGL.COM>
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 2002 19:26:54 +0000
Subject: Re: Rear Spring Removal?
- Chinese Proverb
> Does anyone have any advice for removing the bolt on the front of the rear
> springs. I've removed the axle, rear spring shackle, and the spring is
> hanging by the front bolt only. I also removed the nut from the front
> spring shackle, but can't get the bolt to budge. I've tried tapping it out
> with a brass drift, but no luck. It's really stuck. Any pointers, comment
> on previous experience appreciated. Please forgive me if this is an obvious
> question, but I am unable to come up with a solution.
> As always, thanks in advance for any help!
>
> Troy
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From "Splitkane" <Splitkane at GenomicTechnologies.com>
From: Earl Kagna <kags@shaw.ca>
To: Michael Giroux <mgiroux@SGL.COM>
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 2002 15:29:24 -0500
Subject: Re: Rear Spring Removal?
I just did this myself a couple of days ago. I had the same situation as you,
with the spring hanging down in the rear and the front bolt stuck.
I found that the spring has to be aligned just right for the bolt to move
within the hole. On one side I just pulled steady on the bolt head while
moving the spring around to different positions, up and down and in an out. I
also turned the bolt while pulling on it. I think that helps get any lubricant
you spray on there into the bolt
The other side was more difficult! I used a smaller diameter bolt as a punch
and tapped on the bolt from the inboard side. Its difficult because your
hammering at an angle and there isn't much room for the little bolt. Once the
bolt started moving and the smaller bolt was all the way in and the big bolt
was still not clear I had to switch to a longer bolt for doing the pushing. I
think once I got enough of the bolt coming out I was able to grab it with some
vice grips and do the steady pulling while moving the spring around in
different orientations.
If you get it a little way out and then it binds, try spraying some WD on it
and pushing it back in. this will help get the oil in and things will go a lot
smoother.
I hope that helps.
Sincerely
Rick Neves
Genomic Technologies, Inc.
12 Walnut Hill Road
Millis, MA 02054
V 508.376.2541
F 508.376.5319
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: Earl Kagna <kags@shaw.ca>
To: Michael Giroux <mgiroux@SGL.COM>
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 2002 16:38:51 -0500
Subject: Re: Rear Spring Removal?
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Troy Thames" <TThames@barnwell-whaley.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, November 22, 2002 1:51 PM
Subject: Rear Spring Removal?
> Does anyone have any advice for removing the bolt on the front of the rear
> springs. I've removed the axle, rear spring shackle, and the spring is
> hanging by the front bolt only. I also removed the nut from the front
> spring shackle, but can't get the bolt to budge. I've tried tapping it
out
> with a brass drift, but no luck. It's really stuck. Any pointers,
comment
> on previous experience appreciated. Please forgive me if this is an
obvious
> question, but I am unable to come up with a solution.
> As always, thanks in advance for any help!
>
> Troy
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: Earl Kagna <kags@shaw.ca>
To: Michael Giroux <mgiroux@SGL.COM>
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 2002 19:20:54 -0600
Subject: Re: Rear Spring Removal?
Good luck, take your time and Be Careful.
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Troy Thames <TThames@barnwell-whaley.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, November 22, 2002 12:51 PM
Subject: Rear Spring Removal?
> Does anyone have any advice for removing the bolt on the front of the rear
> springs. I've removed the axle, rear spring shackle, and the spring is
> hanging by the front bolt only. I also removed the nut from the front
> spring shackle, but can't get the bolt to budge. I've tried tapping it
out
> with a brass drift, but no luck. It's really stuck. Any pointers,
comment
> on previous experience appreciated. Please forgive me if this is an
obvious
> question, but I am unable to come up with a solution.
> As always, thanks in advance for any help!
>
> Troy
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From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: Earl Kagna <kags@shaw.ca>
To: Michael Giroux <mgiroux@SGL.COM>
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 2002 18:30:40 -0600
Subject: No Healey Content Delete now if not interested. Barometers
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: Earl Kagna <kags@shaw.ca>
To: Michael Giroux <mgiroux@SGL.COM>
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 2002 22:51:59 -0800
Subject: Fridays Humor, Internet related
ANSWER: 1,331:
1 to change the light bulb and to post to the mail list that the light bulb has
been changed.
14 to share similar experiences of changing light bulbs and how the light bulb
could have been changed differently.
7 to caution about the dangers of changing light bulbs.
27 to point out spelling/grammar errors in posts about changing light bulbs.
53 to flame the spell checkers
156 to write to the list administrator complaining about the light bulb
discussion and its inappropriateness to this mail list.
41 to correct spelling in the spelling/grammar flames.
109 to post that this list is not about light bulbs and to please take this
email exchange to alt.lite.bulb
203 to demand that cross posting to alt.grammar, alt.spelling and
alt.punctuation about changing light bulbs be stopped.
111 to defend the posting to this list saying that we are all use light bulbs
and therefore the posts **are**
relevant to this mail list.
306 to debate which method of changing light bulbs is superior, where to buy
the best light bulbs, what brand
of light bulbs work best for this technique, and what brands are faulty.
27 to post URLs where one can see examples of different light bulbs.
14 to post that the URLs were posted incorrectly, and to post corrected URLs.
3 to post about links they found from the URLs that are relevant to this
list which makes light bulbs relevant to this list.
33 to concatenate all posts to date, then quote them including all headers and
footers, and then add "Me Too."
12 to post to the list that they are unsubscribing because they cannot handle
the light bulb controversy.
19 to quote the "Me Too's" to say, "Me Three."
4 to suggest that posters request the light bulb FAQ.
1 to propose new alt.change.lite.bulb newsgroup.
47 to say this is just what alt.physic.cold_fusion was meant for, leave it here.
143 votes for alt.lite.bulb.
....received this anonymously on the internet, but apologize to whoever wrote
it for not giving adequate credit.
>From the E type list
Ron
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From AHCUSA at go.com
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri Nov 15 11:18:30 PST 2002
Subject: Re: 100M Authenticity
<< ...Regarding the crease behind the rear wheel I would like to hear from
owners with cars in the 228047 to 229300 range to see if their car has the
crease or not. >>
Sounds like a question for the 100 Registrar... is Steve Byers' BN1/BN2
counterpart reading this?
Reid Trummel
100, 100M, Bugeye, Ski-Master
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From AHCUSA at go.com
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 01:52:07 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: 100 M issue
I've heard about this incident also (of someone buying a range of BMIHT certs
hoping to find one for a 100M and then use that number to "create" a 100M), and
in fact I think that more than once someone has purchased BMIHT certs for a
range of cars that they didn't own, hoping to reveal a 100M among the range of
Car Numbers that they pruchased. I also believe that you're correct that the
BMIHT stopped allowing such purchases, although note that their Archivist
changed in the not-too-distant past, and it is possible that the new one is not
aware of the history there and may not be disallowing such pruchases any longer.
I agree with Roger -- a.k.a. The Godfather -- that we need to support the
BMIHT, partly by purchasing the certificates from them. In my own case, back
in 1987 when I was considering the purchase of a 100M, I bought the cert for
the car in question to verify its authenticity. (It was legit and I did buy
the car -- and I was also buying it from the original owner, so that didn't
hurt anything either.) However, most of the time there is not enough time for
this, especially in the case of an online auction (which is, by the way, an
exceptionally dangerous way to buy a car, tempting though it may be).
Steve Byers -- and bless his efforts with the BJ8 Registry -- mentioned that it
would be nice to have a registry that "could answer a specific question about a
specific number, but only if the request seemed legit. Such as, 'I'm told
that a car I'm looking to buy is a factory 'M' and it has chassis and/or body
number xxxxxx -- is this true?'" In fact that does exist (or did) in the case
of the 100M. I hesitate to reveal the person who has that list and can answer
those questions (although it is possible that I could be shamed into it if
bombarded with enough cries of, "Foul, insider information!"). However, due to
concerns about fraudulent use of the information, I believe that "this person"
no longer responds to such inquiries from strangers. However, even apart from
that person, there exists the 100M Registry (Bill Meade) and he can at least
tell you if such-and-such a car is already registered with him. Of course just
having a car registered with him does not, by itself, make it legit, but in
some cases it can at least indicate if a problem exists (resolving the problem
would be quite another matter).
Another problem is the occasional practice of individuals who are not dealers
or restorers salvaging Car Number plates, using them on different cars, and
even some that find their way onto online auctions. Some of this is fruad and
some of it is innocent (although, in my opinion, a terrible practice) and done
merely for convenience.
The bottom line is that there is a lot of potential for fraud in these matters,
and with cars that are 35-50 years old and have mostly changed hands
innumerable times, we're never going to stop all of it. The 100M is
particularly vulnerable to this type of fraud (heck, it's hard just to get some
people to agree what a legit 100M "is", much less be able to tell a legit one
from an illegit one), and that is why I wrote in the "Big Healey Model
Overview" of the Austin-Healey Club USA website:
"We should also mention here two special models made during the period in
question: the 100S and 100M. The 100S is a racing model and is exceptionally
rare (just 50 made) and expensive. It is not typically considered a beginner's
first choice, and unless your budget is into six figures and you have very
knowledgeable and experienced advice on the model readily available, do not
even consider one for your first Austin-Healey. The 100M is a variant of the
standard 100 with increased performance. It is a very desirable model, but due
to much confusion and misinformation over what constitutes an authentic 100M,
it is best that novices either not consider it, or get the advice of someone
with much experience and knowledge of this model. There are many pitfalls here
and many cars out there are promoted as being 100M models when in fact they are
not. Caveat Emptor! (See also the discussion of the 100S and 100M in the
Austin-Healey Resource Book.)"
See http://www.healey.org/model-100.shtml
I repeat, Caveat Emptor! Do your homework, consult knowledgeable people,
attend car shows and join clubs!
Reid Trummel
President, Austin-Healey Club USA
http://www.healeyhighlights.com
-----Original Message-----
From: "Bob Spidell"<bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat Nov 16 07:40:40 PST 2002
Subject: Re: 100 M issue
>I was told by Bill Meade--"owner" of the 100M Registry (where is he,
>anyway???)--that the BMIHT itself was abused to create fake Ms.
>
>Supposedly, a mechanic/restorer was requesting certificates from the
>BMIHT for a range of VINs--fishing for VINs with the telltale "shipped
>with louvered bonnet"--indicating a factory M. He built and sold 3 of
>them with the same VIN to unsuspecting buyers.
>
>If I recall correctly, the fraud was exposed when (more than one of) the
>owners tried to register the same VIN with Bill.
>
>I was told that when the buyers found out they sued him and won; little
>consolation for the disappointment they must have felt. I've also heard
>the BMIHT will no longer provide a "batch" of certs, though I suppose
>you could still request a range of VINs individually.
>
>
>bs
>*****************************************************
>Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
>(home)
>San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
>`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
>*****************************************************
>
>
>> In a message dated 11/16/2002 4:53:20 AM Mountain Standard Time,
>> byers@cconnect.net writes:
>>
>>
>> > Lest anyone read his comments and conclude that ALL non-BMIHT registries of
>> > cars (lists of VINs and other data) is a bad thing, I would like to
>provide
>> > a
>> > dissenting voice.
>>
>> I guess I might have spoken a bit strongly about use of BMIHT. Yes,
>> registries are good and can be used to help avoid fraud.
>>
>> I guess what I am concerned about is having a private list to provide the
>> same info that BMIHT does. I do think it would be helpful, and harmless to
>> BMIHT's existence, if a Registry could answer a specific question about a
>> specific number, but only if the request seemed legit. Such as, "I'm, told
>> that a car I'm looking to buy is a factory "M" and it has chassis and/or
>body
>> number xxxxxx -- is this true?"
>>
>> What I would want to avoid is any published listing that people could have
>to
>> look through.
>>
>> I think the Registries can also be a great service if their "keepers" set
>> them up in a way that allows changes and trends, especially with respect to
>> colors and color combinations, to be identified. It is not possible to asi
>> BMIHT what the body/chassis number was on the first Goldn Beige Metallic
>BJ8,
>> yet that would be of interest to know. Also, how many of these cars were
>> trimmed in Red as opposed to Black.
>>
>> So my appologies for sounding a bit pendantic. However, please do consider
>> that BMIHT needs to be supported and it is not, in my opinion, a good thing
>> when folks try to looks for ways to avoid paying them the $40for a
>> certificate just so a few $$ can be saved.
>>
>> Roger
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From AHCUSA at go.com
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 02:38:58 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: "Rare Factory Le Mans Healey" for sale
I would, however, ask everyone to recall the difference between a fact and a
statement, and that just because something is printed does not make it so.
My belief of what constitutes a 100M is described in the Austin-Healey Resource
Book http://www.healey.org/resource-book.shtml
(see the "Special Models" section), and after all of the discussion and all of
the statements and all of the facts (few thought they may be) that have come to
light in recent years, I stand by it and would encourage anyone interested in
the subject to give it due consideration.
(Hi Kirk, Ain't this list fun?)
Reid Trummel
Owner of a 100M and a 100 with the Le Mans mods, and I differentiate between
the two for what I believe are good reasons.
-----Original Message-----
From: "62BT7"<62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat Nov 16 16:03:25 PST 2002
Subject: "Rare Factory LeMans Healey" for sale
>After reviewing the description, claims and photos made
>by the seller of this vehicle. I have some constipation.
>
>(DESCRIPTION AND CLAIMS)
>
>"1956 Austin Healey LeMans, 100/M, - Rare -"
>
> This car appears to have been manufactured in the
> month of October 1955. (I know, "titled in year sold")
>
> A total of 4,604 BN2's were produced from August
> 1955 thru July 1956. Starting with car #228047 and this
> car being #229089 it is the 1,042nd BN2 produced.
> Twelve months of production, averaging 384 cars per month
> this is the 274th BN2 produced in October, 1955.
>
>"Rare factory Le Mans Healey"
>"One of 662 ever produced"
>
> Fact is, only 640 "Factory" LeMans/100Ms were produced.
>
>
>"Sold new in California"
>"All numbers match"
>
> Without documentation and/or BMIHT certificate,
> how can this claim be valid ?
>
>"In a private collection for 20 years, owned by a Multi
>Healey Collector..."
>
> If this is accurate, how can so many errors be portrayed
> in the photos of the listing ? .
> Contrary to what is purported in description !
> Not a very astute collector.
>
>(PHOTOS)
>
> In the photos of this purported "Factory" LeMans/100M..
> I find the following genuine "Factory" / After Market Kit
> items missing.
>
>1. Metal plaque, (fixed to carburetor cold air box) with 100 flash,
>stating,
> "This car has been fitted with a Le Mans modification kit".
>
>2. Large flexible cold air hose, (from rear of grille to front of
> aluminum cold air box.
>
>3. Small "M" factory wired (or cast integrally) to the 100 flash on the
>grille.
>
>
> Other items observed that appear to be not correct are;
>
>1. Buffer strip between front shroud and splash pan should be black,
> not painted body color.
>
>2. Rear reflector lenses should be red with chrome retainer rings,
> they appear to be opaque, surrounded by black retainer ring.
>
>3. Engine compartment heater hoses are improperly connected / shut
> off valve is missing.
>
> With the above obvious discrepancies in mind, what other latent
> faults are there to be found ???
>
>The following are taken from Bill Emerson's book "The Healey Book"
>"A complete history of the Austin Healey".
>
>Geoff Healey is quoted "there were 1159, 100Ms produced.....
>Graham Robson writes in his book (Austin Healey 100&3000 Series)
>"Factory records show 640, 100M cars were built. The balance
>- 519 - must therefore have been converted at the dealers or by owners
>after delivery......
>
>For more info and pictures of "Factory Built" and "After Market Kit"
>LeMans/100M see pages 112 thru 115 of Emerson's book.
>
> Healey-on boys and girls.
>
>Kirk Kvam
>62BT7 Tri-Carb
>59/60 BN7 (NastyBoy 302Ford)
>101mph @ Tahoe
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From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 11:26:39 EST
Subject: Re: 100 M issue
<< I repeat, Caveat Emptor! Do your homework, consult knowledgeable people,
attend car shows and join clubs!
Reid Trummel
President, Austin-Healey Club USA
http://www.healeyhighlights.com >>
Reid/Bob and others:
That is exactly what started this latest thread.
(In a message dated 11/15/02 6:56:18 AM Pacific Standard Time,
foxriverkid@earthlink.net writes: << Does anyone have a clue about the
authenticity of the 100M on e-bay? Bob Denton>>)
I've requested help on this specific car (BN2L229089, Body 11004) from
several sources. Following is a statement from Bill Meade.
Regards all. Steve Mickelson & Brutus
In a message dated 11/22/02 12:14:44 PM Pacific Standard Time,
billmeade@charter.net writes:
Steve,
The only way I know to confirm (as much as humanly possible) a factory built
100 M is to first confirm that its VIN number is in the list of 100M cars
held by the British Motor Industry Heritage Trust in England (or perhaps the
list Bill Wood has). You must write to England and send proof of ownership
plus $35 for a build certificate which will state if the car is a factory M.
The car you mentioned, BN2L229089 is not currently listed in the 100M
Registry. It is always interesting to find out why the owner never
registered their car.
Second, the car would need to be inspected to confirm eighteen different
points of identification on the car. These eighteen points are pictured and
described in our booklet "100 M Identification Guidelines". Someone could,
of course, attempt to take a known 100M VIN number and build up a standard
car trying to duplicate all the distinguishing items that make a 100M.
However, there are a number of 100M conversion parts and stamped numbers
that have not been reproduced accurately and could most likely be identified
by using our booklet (available to Registry members for $20).
Hope this helps.
Bill Meade, Founder
Worldwide 100M "LeMans" Registry
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 14:38:52 EST
Subject: Re: 100 M issue
> Second, the car would need to be inspected to confirm eighteen different
> points of identification on the car. These eighteen points are pictured and
> described in our booklet "100 M Identification Guidelines". Someone could,
> of course, attempt to take a known 100M VIN number and build up a standard
> car trying to duplicate all the distinguishing items that make a 100M.
> However, there are a number of 100M conversion parts and stamped numbers
> that have not been reproduced accurately and could most likely be
> identified
> by using our booklet (available to Registry members for $20).
>
>
But the conversion parts that were supplied with early Le Mans kits (such as
mine which was installed circa1956) conformed to the "M" configuration and
therefore cannot be differentiated. For example, one of the points of
identification that Bill Meade refers to is the alignment of the letters
backstamped onto the brass plate that was affixed to the cold air boxes. The
plate on my car has the "correct" alignment, and the carbs and intake
manifolds have the right numbers, as they were part of a kit that was made up
out the same parts bins as the "Factory M's". So one could merely salvage an
early "Le Mans" conversion kit and do their worst, etc. etc. Then too, many
of these small parts may have been lost from a real M car and been replaced
blah blah blah.
For anyone who owns an original 100 that has not yet been converted into a
"Factory M", hang onto it as such cars are getting exceedingly rare!
Best--Michael Oritt (1955 100 Le Mans--NOT an M)
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From Marty Filardi <marty_filardi at yahoo.com>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 13:06:23 -0800 (PST)
Subject: gross jet or float bowl?
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From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 16:12:53 EST
Subject: Re: 100 M issue
If the list does exist, I assume it does not include those cars that were
retrofitted at the factory and would most certainly not include those
modified by dealers.
Looks to me like the only cars that can be authenticated, using the two steps
that Bill Meade stated, are the original (640?) factory "M"s.
Regardless, if a car is modified, and done well, it would be a pleasure to
experience the additional performance which, of course, is what the
modification was intended for to start with.
I recently looked at the performance numbers (accelerations, etc.) and
noticed that, excluding the 100S, the only thing that out performed the "M"
was the latest and greatest BJ8s. Took 'em 10-12 years to produce a better
performer!
Regards all, now go drive your Healey and enjoy it!
Steve Mickelson & Brutus (one of the remaining non-"M" Hundreds).
In a message dated 11/23/02 11:41:50 AM Pacific Standard Time,
Awgertoo@aol.com writes:
<< So one could merely salvage an
early "Le Mans" conversion kit and do their worst, etc. etc. Then too, many
of these small parts may have been lost from a real M car and been replaced
blah blah blah.
For anyone who owns an original 100 that has not yet been converted into a
"Factory M", hang onto it as such cars are getting exceedingly rare!
Best--Michael Oritt (1955 100 Le Mans--NOT an M) >>
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 16:17:51 EST
Subject: Re: Grose Jets & keeping oil in your sum p
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 16:31:50 -0500
Subject: Fw: gross jet or float bowl?
Moss also has the floats (P/N 370-010, $17.95).
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Marty Filardi
To: healey
Sent: Saturday, November 23, 2002 4:06 PM
Subject: gross jet or float bowl?
I haven't driven my BJ8 in a few weeks and this
afternoon it go pretty nice in New England. I go out
to the garage and try to start the beast and gas goes
all over the floor. How can this be? Did the beast
hear about gross jet failure from the CPU? I have had
the jets in the carbs for over 10 years without any
problems. I take the bowls apart and clean everything,
and am just about to put it all back together, after
finding no dirt or bound up ball valve, and the float
in the front carb is sitting lower in the bowl than
the back one! I take the thing out with my custom
paperclip float removal tool and the little brass
bugger has gas inside it> I cannot find the pin hole
leak yet. Can these things be soldered if you can find
the leak? Or should I just replace the 34 year old
thing? Do they still make brass ones?
What do you all think? TIA, So I took my son's MR2
out, boy does that stick to the road. Marty
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 16:49:42 -0500
Subject: BJ8 Tool Kit
I know this was discussed on the list not too long ago, but I can't find
anything in the archives. Can someone provide the list or description of
tools that came in the original BJ8 tool kit?
Thanks!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
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From bn1 at pacbell.net
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 14:41:43 -0800
Subject: Re: 100 M issue
<snip>
> For anyone who owns an original 100 that has not yet been converted into a
> "Factory M", hang onto it as such cars are getting exceedingly rare!
>
> Best--Michael Oritt (1955 100 Le Mans--NOT an M)
I love it, Michael. Unfortunately my BN1 had the kit, less the louvered
bonnet, added in
1954 by the PO. Damn, screwed again!
Bill Barnett
Santa Ana, CA
BN1 #663 Whatever it is!
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From "Robert D. Hughes" <dhugh at tscnet.com>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 15:09:32 -0800
Subject: O.R. video
Robert Hughes
65 BJ8
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 18:11:11 EST
Subject: Re: 100 M issue
<< For anyone who owns an original 100 that has not yet been converted into a
"Factory M", hang onto it as such cars are getting exceedingly rare!
Best--Michael Oritt (1955 100 Le Mans--NOT an M) >>
This argument gets silly with the repetition. At least you're not arguing
that any 100 converted to LeMans specs should be considered a 100M since
"Donald converted a lot, shouldn't they be considered 100Ms, and what's the
difference anyway between a factory M and one converted by a dealer."
It's like any other arcanity of the classic automotive market. Why should
matching numbers be important? Because they are considered important by
buyers.
Why should it be considered important that a BN2 was received at Longbridge
from Jensen's with a louvered bonnet? (the only actual fact we know about
these cars.) Because buyers say it is and are willing to pay more money as a
result.
Actually, if you knew a serial number that had originally been on one of the
louvered bonnet BN2s, and that wasn't currently on the 100M/LeMans register
(so you wouldn't be caught the minute you tried to register it with Bill
Meade), and you had one of the original Jensen bonnets (they're different
than the aftermarket bonnets), and all of your LeMans conversion parts were
from one of the original kits made up and sold by Donald Healey Motor Works,
and you scraped off the old body numbers from the cockpit rails and found
stamps to match them and stamped in the 100M's body number, and you replaced
the body number plate as well as the car number plate, and you also changed
the stampings on the boot lid, and bonnet to match the body number, no one
would be able to tell that this wasn't a "factory 100M" --- the chances of
getting every single one of those changes exactly correct, however, are
pretty damn small, and if the seller had managed to do so, I suppose he would
deserve the extra $10,000 the effort would net him.
Cheers
Gary.
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From "Scott H." <austrheamgafun at arczip.com>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 18:25:19 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey coupe
Speaking of coupes, there's also a great story (Part 1 of .....) about a
coupe in the November 2002 issue of A-H Magazine. This car was converted
into a coupe from a two seat roadster (at the factory - 1954), then
delivered to Belgium. One of two known that were delivered to Belgium this
way. An interesting story by Bruno Verstraete.
Scott Helms
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Haskell" <bhaskell@iquest.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, November 21, 2002 6:55 AM
Subject: Healey coupe
> Listers,
>
> Can anyone shed a little more light on the Austin-Healey 3000
coupe/hatchback that's pictured/described (briefly) in the December 2002
issue of Classic & Sports Car, page 9?
>
> The description: "Spotted at the Eiffel-Klassik was this novel
interpretation of a Healey coupe. The car was not one of the two original
prototypes overseen by Donald Healey but a German enthusiast's dream GT.
The top-hinged rear door provides impressive boot space."
>
> The car looks good - base on a 3000 convertible with wire wheels, rally
vents and a hatchback.
>
> Bob Haskell
> 1960 Austin-Healey 3000 Mk I
> 1964 Austin Mini Cooper RHD
> 1980 MGB-LE
> bhaskell@iquest.net
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From "Robert Koss" <cmos at ieee.org>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 17:36:10 -0600
Subject: "TR Sales" in Fort Worth, Texas
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 15:50:28 -0800
Subject: Re: 100 M issue
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
> Actually, if you knew a serial number that had originally been on one of the
> louvered bonnet BN2s, and that wasn't currently on the 100M/LeMans register
> (so you wouldn't be caught the minute you tried to register it with Bill
> Meade), and you had one of the original Jensen bonnets (they're different
> than the aftermarket bonnets), and all of your LeMans conversion parts were
> from one of the original kits made up and sold by Donald Healey Motor Works,
> and you scraped off the old body numbers from the cockpit rails and found
> stamps to match them and stamped in the 100M's body number, and you replaced
> the body number plate as well as the car number plate, and you also changed
> the stampings on the boot lid, and bonnet to match the body number, no one
> would be able to tell that this wasn't a "factory 100M" --- the chances of
> getting every single one of those changes exactly correct, however, are
> pretty damn small, and if the seller had managed to do so, I suppose he would
> deserve the extra $10,000 the effort would net him.
>
> Cheers
> Gary.
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From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 16:26:38 -0800
Subject: Re: 100 M issue / He lives
But first I want some sort of certification and authenticity.
HAS SOMEONE BEEN DIGGING BEHIND THE "CAPE" ???
The Healey Police and "M" Gods have been searching for him.
He has been "sourly" missed.
BLESSED BE THE "M" GODS FOR HIS RESURRECTION.
Kirk Kvam
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, November 23, 2002 3:11 PM
Subject: Re: 100 M issue
> In a message dated 11/23/02 11:42:09 AM, Awgertoo@aol.com writes:
>
> << For anyone who owns an original 100 that has not yet been converted
into a
> "Factory M", hang onto it as such cars are getting exceedingly rare!
>
> Best--Michael Oritt (1955 100 Le Mans--NOT an M) >>
>
> This argument gets silly with the repetition. At least you're not arguing
> that any 100 converted to LeMans specs should be considered a 100M since
> "Donald converted a lot, shouldn't they be considered 100Ms, and what's
the
> difference anyway between a factory M and one converted by a dealer."
>
> It's like any other arcanity of the classic automotive market. Why should
> matching numbers be important? Because they are considered important by
> buyers.
> Why should it be considered important that a BN2 was received at
Longbridge
> from Jensen's with a louvered bonnet? (the only actual fact we know about
> these cars.) Because buyers say it is and are willing to pay more money as
a
> result.
>
> Actually, if you knew a serial number that had originally been on one of
the
> louvered bonnet BN2s, and that wasn't currently on the 100M/LeMans
register
> (so you wouldn't be caught the minute you tried to register it with Bill
> Meade), and you had one of the original Jensen bonnets (they're different
> than the aftermarket bonnets), and all of your LeMans conversion parts
were
> from one of the original kits made up and sold by Donald Healey Motor
Works,
> and you scraped off the old body numbers from the cockpit rails and found
> stamps to match them and stamped in the 100M's body number, and you
replaced
> the body number plate as well as the car number plate, and you also
changed
> the stampings on the boot lid, and bonnet to match the body number, no one
> would be able to tell that this wasn't a "factory 100M" --- the chances of
> getting every single one of those changes exactly correct, however, are
> pretty damn small, and if the seller had managed to do so, I suppose he
would
> deserve the extra $10,000 the effort would net him.
>
> Cheers
> Gary.
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From "R. Poague" <rapoague at gte.net>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 16:29:27 -0800
Subject: Re: O.R. video
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert D. Hughes" <dhugh@tscnet.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, November 23, 2002 3:09 PM
Subject: O.R. video
> Hi,
> Has anyone received their Open Rods video, yet?
>
> Robert Hughes
> 65 BJ8
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From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 19:59:58 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Healey coupe
1. 1954 Austin Healey with fastback hardtop. Image is noted as being
taken at Concours d'Elegance, Mt. Diablo Country Club, California May
22, 1955.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=738989846
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=738990241
2. A Austin Healey Special, or race car, is also listed. Image is noted
as being taken at Buchanan Field, Pacheco, California August 20, 1955.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=738987383
3. Of interest is an Austin Healey with special grill. Image is noted
as being taken at Sonoma County Airport, California May 14, 1955.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=738987968
--Scott Morris [62 3000 BT7 tricarb-driver; 60 3000 BN7 project]
--- "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com> wrote: << Hi, Speaking of
coupes, there's also a great story (Part 1 of .....) about a coupe in
the November 2002 issue of A-H Magazine. This car was converted into a
coupe from a two seat roadster (at the factory - 1954), then delivered
to Belgium. One of two known that were delivered to Belgium this way.
An interesting story by Bruno Verstraete. --Scott Helms >>
=====
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
______________________________________________________________________
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
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From "I Erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 17:09:21 -0800
Subject: RE: Healey coupe
<3. Of interest is an Austin Healey with special grill. Image is noted
as being taken at Sonoma County Airport, California May 14, 1955.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=738987968>
I ERbs
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of J. Scott Morris
Sent: Saturday, November 23, 2002 5:00 PM
To: Scott H.; Bob Haskell
Cc: Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Healey coupe
And of course on eBay are several photos [from the mid 50's]listed for
auction(s) which also include a fastback hardtop. Just search for
"Healey" and go to the start date of November 21st.
1. 1954 Austin Healey with fastback hardtop. Image is noted as being
taken at Concours d'Elegance, Mt. Diablo Country Club, California May
22, 1955.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=738989846
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=738990241
2. A Austin Healey Special, or race car, is also listed. Image is noted
as being taken at Buchanan Field, Pacheco, California August 20, 1955.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=738987383
3. Of interest is an Austin Healey with special grill. Image is noted
as being taken at Sonoma County Airport, California May 14, 1955.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=738987968
--Scott Morris [62 3000 BT7 tricarb-driver; 60 3000 BN7 project]
--- "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com> wrote: << Hi, Speaking of
coupes, there's also a great story (Part 1 of .....) about a coupe in
the November 2002 issue of A-H Magazine. This car was converted into a
coupe from a two seat roadster (at the factory - 1954), then delivered
to Belgium. One of two known that were delivered to Belgium this way.
An interesting story by Bruno Verstraete. --Scott Helms >>
=====
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
______________________________________________________________________
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From "Mark Endicott" <mark at nashvilletn.org>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 19:43:38 -0600
Subject: Re: 100 M issue
Mark
Nashville
BN1 150202
----- Original Message -----
From: <bn1@pacbell.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, November 23, 2002 4:41 PM
Subject: Re: 100 M issue
> Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
>
> <snip>
>
> > For anyone who owns an original 100 that has not yet been converted into
a
> > "Factory M", hang onto it as such cars are getting exceedingly rare!
> >
> > Best--Michael Oritt (1955 100 Le Mans--NOT an M)
>
> I love it, Michael. Unfortunately my BN1 had the kit, less the louvered
bonnet, added in
> 1954 by the PO. Damn, screwed again!
>
> Bill Barnett
> Santa Ana, CA
> BN1 #663 Whatever it is!
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 19:02:22 -0700
Subject: Re: My BJ8 Resto Status & Misc.
Bill Lawrence
Keith Pennell wrote:
> Question to the list: Might plating of the hubs cause some tolerances to
> become intolerable? That is, if bearing races are not removed first, I
> should think that the plating would be too rough for a bearing. If they are
> removed and then replaced afterwards, there may be difficulty in getting the
> races back in. Dunno. Any thoughts out there?
>
> Keith Pennell
>
> > I am also in a quandry what to do with my hubs.... I have 2 new ones...
> all
> > silver plated and shiny... and 2 old ones that are fine but dingy and
> > brown... thinking of taking them up for zinc plating to match the new
> > ones.... hmmmm... getting retentive here.....
> > jim Sailer
> > 66 BJ8 - coming along
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 21:23:01 EST
Subject: Re: 100 M issue
> <<For anyone who owns an original 100 that has not yet been converted into a
>
> "Factory M", hang onto it as such cars are getting exceedingly rare!
>
> Best--Michael Oritt (1955 100 Le Mans--NOT an M) >>
>
> This argument gets silly with the repetition. At least you're not arguing
> that any 100 converted to LeMans specs should be considered a 100M since
> "Donald converted a lot, shouldn't they be considered 100Ms, and what's the
>
> difference anyway between a factory M and one converted by a dealer."
>
>
Gary--
I hate it when I have to explain that something was meant to be a joke. I
got a laugh out of it, in any case. And, in addition to believing in truth,
justice and the American Way, I agree that a Le Mans conversion is just that:
A conversion and NOT an "M" (hence my signature line in the snippet!)
Best--Michael
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 18:35:31 -0800
Subject: Re: O.R. video
Beginning to wonder if it exists.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert D. Hughes" <dhugh@tscnet.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, November 23, 2002 3:09 PM
Subject: O.R. video
> Hi,
> Has anyone received their Open Roads video, yet?
>
> Robert Hughes
> 65 BJ8
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 22:48:50 EST
Subject: Re: O.R. video
David Nock
co/chaiman Healey International 2002
June 23/28 2002
Horizon Casino Resort
Lake Tahoe, Nevada
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Healey International
2002</A>
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 19:57:21 -0800
Subject: Re: Fridays Humor, Internet related
Charlie wrote:
> Ron,
>
> I love your posts... keep 'em coming... I'm so glad you're into Healeys and
> on this list!
>
> Have a great weekend,
>
> Charlie Stewart
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From bn1 at pacbell.net
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 20:02:15 -0800
Subject: Re: O.R. video
Bill Barnett
BN1 #663
John Snyder wrote:
> Not me!
>
> Beginning to wonder if it exists.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Robert D. Hughes" <dhugh@tscnet.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, November 23, 2002 3:09 PM
> Subject: O.R. video
>
> > Hi,
> > Has anyone received their Open Roads video, yet?
> >
> > Robert Hughes
> > 65 BJ8
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 00:05:01 EST
Subject: float repair , brass
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From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 00:51:45 EST
Subject: Authentic 100M? on eBay
Auction ended at $24,300 high bid, which did not meet seller's reserve.
Steve M (& Brutus)
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From "simon.lachlan" <simon.lachlan at btopenworld.com>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 10:33:45 -0000
Subject: RE: float repair , brass
Simon Lachlan
Comfort House
Bradninch
Devon EX5 4NN
UK
01392-882248
March1962 MkII
HBT7 18111 (29E/RU/H4590)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of SJNNOCK@aol.com
Sent: 24 November 2002 05:05
To: marty_filardi@yahoo.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: float repair , brass
If your float has sunk causing a flooding condition the float
will be heavy
with gas (petrol) to empty it drill two small holes in each end
of the float
and empty out ALL ! ! ! the petrol (gas) solder up both these
holes .. I
worked at the factory in England and ALL floats went through a
leak test this
way :--- Get a bowl of very hot water and immerse your float
under the water
and look for bubbles , if you have any you have a leak , fix it
and check
again , DONT TOUCH THE VERY HOT WATER IT BURNS ! ! ! Norman
Nock British
Car Spoecialists C.A
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From bn1 at pacbell.net
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 03:04:35 -0800
Subject: Re: Authentic 100M? on eBay
> FYI:
>
> Auction ended at $24,300 high bid, which did not meet seller's reserve.
>
> Steve M (& Brutus)
Hmmmm. Do I remember correctly? This was the very rare M with the automatic
transmission, right? ;-)
Bill Barnett
Santa Ana, CA
'53 100, what ever it is!
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 07:39:14 -0600
Subject: Re: "TR Sales" in Fort Worth, Texas
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 07:51:32 -0600
Subject: Re: BJ8 Tool Kit
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 09:01:40 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ8 Tool Kit
Thanks for Richard Gordon and Jerry Wall, I now have the information on the
tool kit I was looking for.
Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: Jerry Wall
To: byers@cconnect.net ; healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Sunday, November 24, 2002 8:51 AM
Subject: Re: BJ8 Tool Kit
i believe this is listed at the back of either the body or mechanical parts
list for the bj8 or it is also on page 180 of the anderson/moment restoration
book.
Steve Byers wrote:
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 01:15:39 +1100
Subject: Re: BJ8 Tool Kit
I'll fess up. I was lurking on this one.
I have the BJ8 parts lists (body & mechanical) - but my 'mechanical' copy
doesn't have page MR1 with the pictures of the tool kit ! It only has MR2 -
the part number/ description page for the 'tools'.
Is there any chance that someone with a more complete BJ8 parts list
(mechanical) with page MR1 could scan it & email that page to me??
I'm in the process of trying to assemble a 'proper' display tool kit.
Thanks & best regards
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, November 25, 2002 12:51 AM
Subject: Re: BJ8 Tool Kit
> i believe this is listed at the back of either the body or mechanical
parts list for the bj8 or it is also on page 180 of the anderson/moment
restoration book.
> Steve Byers wrote:
> >
> > Hello, Healeyphiles -
> >
> > I know this was discussed on the list not too long ago, but I can't
find
> > anything in the archives. Can someone provide the list or description
of
> > tools that came in the original BJ8 tool kit?
> >
> > Thanks!
> > Steve Byers
> > HBJ8L/36666
> > BJ8 Registry
> > Havelock, NC USA
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 21:28:11 -0500
Subject: Re: Authentic 100M? on eBay
CB
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 01:26:07 +1100
Subject: Re: BJ8 Tool Kit - Thanks
4 minutes elapsed from request to receipt!
Thanks Steve!
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Byers
To: Chris Dimmock
Sent: Monday, November 25, 2002 1:20 AM
Subject: Re: BJ8 Tool Kit
Glad to oblige, Chris.
Steve
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris Dimmock
To: Jerry Wall ; byers@cconnect.net ; healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Sunday, November 24, 2002 9:15 AM
Subject: Re: BJ8 Tool Kit
Ok Guys,
I'll fess up. I was lurking on this one.
I have the BJ8 parts lists (body & mechanical) - but my 'mechanical' copy
doesn't have page MR1 with the pictures of the tool kit ! It only has MR2
-
the part number/ description page for the 'tools'.
Is there any chance that someone with a more complete BJ8 parts list
(mechanical) with page MR1 could scan it & email that page to me??
I'm in the process of trying to assemble a 'proper' display tool kit.
Thanks & best regards
Chris
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From "Alex" <asuperak at nc.rr.com>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 10:22:54 -0500
Subject: Healey sighting in the land of Oz
Alex
BJ8 34180
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From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 11:11:14 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: BJ8 Tool Kit
--- Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au> wrote: << Ok Guys, I'll
fess up. I was lurking on this one. I have the BJ8 parts lists (body
& mechanical) - but my 'mechanical' copy doesn't have page MR1 with the
pictures of the tool kit ! It only has MR2 - the part number /
description page for the 'tools'. Is there any chance that someone
with a more complete BJ8 parts list (mechanical) with page MR1 could
scan it & email that page to me?? ........ >>
=====
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
______________________________________________________________________
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
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From Jonathan and Carole Quandt <fourqz at earthlink.net>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 08:31:52 -0800
Subject: Rear axle wind up on 100-4 BN2
Thanks to all in advance.
Cheers
Jonathan BN-2
NorCal
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From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 08:02:41 +0000
Subject: Re: Healey coupe
I think that you will find that the conversion was done in Belgium by a
specialist body builder.
All the best
>
>Speaking of coupes, there's also a great story (Part 1 of .....) about a
>coupe in the November 2002 issue of A-H Magazine. This car was converted
>into a coupe from a two seat roadster (at the factory - 1954), then
>delivered to Belgium. One of two known that were delivered to Belgium this
>way. An interesting story by Bruno Verstraete.
>
>Scott Helms
--
John Harper
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 11:58:55 -0500
Subject: RE: Rear axle wind up on 100-4 BN2
Having raced and rallyed my 100S a fair bit I can say that I have never
encountered a handling problem that I could attribute specifically to
rear axle wind up.
What exactly are you experiencing that leads you to believe that this is
the cause of a problem?
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jonathan and Carole Quandt
Sent: 24-Nov-02 11:32 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Rear axle wind up on 100-4 BN2
Here in Northern CA, the country roads are hilly and rough. My BN-2
exhibits
substantial rear axle windup. I am interested in a discussion concerning
cause and solution of this problem, including what aftermarket parts are
available (handling kits, torsion bars, etc.).
Thanks to all in advance.
Cheers
Jonathan BN-2
NorCal
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From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 09:18:00 -0800
Subject: Re: Rear axle wind up on 100-4 BN2
I also installed the kit on my BN7 Nasty Boy, same results.
Putske's Fahrspass
13809 Eisenhower Ave
Poway, CA. 92064
Putzkes@worldnet.att.net
Web: putzkes-fahrspass.com
Ph-Fax 858-486-3870
No financial interest, just happy camper.
Kirk Kvam
62BT7 Tri-Carb
59/60BN7 Nasty Boy
101 mph at Tahoe 1/4 mile, no windup/hop.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, November 24, 2002 8:31 AM
Subject: Rear axle wind up on 100-4 BN2
> Here in Northern CA, the country roads are hilly and rough. My BN-2
exhibits
> substantial rear axle windup. I am interested in a discussion concerning
> cause and solution of this problem, including what aftermarket parts are
> available (handling kits, torsion bars, etc.).
>
> Thanks to all in advance.
>
> Cheers
>
> Jonathan BN-2
> NorCal
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From Jonathan and Carole Quandt <fourqz at earthlink.net>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 09:38:56 -0800
Subject: windup problem response to Michael
to say that excessive windup in rear axle does not contribute to handling
problems is a bold statement. what I am more interested in is the cause of
excessive windup, whether suspension or inherent design problem, and its
resolution. most authoritative books dealing with the design and
construction of AHs mention tendency for windup on new cars. older cars have
worse problems
thanks,
Jonathan
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From "William Kollar" <wkollar at superior.net>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 12:49:08 -0500
Subject: Fw: [modifiedhealeys] 53 100-4 for sale
Noemal disclaimer applies.
----- Original Message -----
From: Brian Collins
To: Modified Healey list
Sent: Sunday, November 24, 2002 12:08 PM
Subject: [modifiedhealeys] 53 100-4 for sale
Project, car was driven into a local restoration shop 8 years ago for
complete restoration. Engine removed, Head removed, front suspension
removed, and then all worked stopped to lack of necessary funds. British
racing Green. Dallas, TX. Make offer. 214-321-7688 or home 214-328-6858
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From "I Erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 09:48:26 -0800
Subject: for sundialent
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From "DH" <donham1 at cox.net>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 12:09:39 -0600
Subject: OD Failure on 62BJ7
DH-62BJ7
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From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 18:03:13 +0000
Subject: Re: Rear axle wind up on 100-4 BN2
What symtoms do you experience? There should be sufficient flexibility
in the transmission for this to happen without you noticing anything
untoward. Normally there is no need for any special kit.
I assume that you are not a drag racer with 500 HP to contend with?
All the best
>Here in Northern CA, the country roads are hilly and rough. My BN-2 exhibits
>substantial rear axle windup. I am interested in a discussion concerning
>cause and solution of this problem, including what aftermarket parts are
>available (handling kits, torsion bars, etc.).
>
>Thanks to all in advance.
>
>Cheers
>
>Jonathan BN-2
>NorCal
>
--
John Harper
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From "DH" <donham1 at cox.net>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 12:13:46 -0600
Subject: TEST-NM
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From Mark J Bradakis <mjb at autox.team.net>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 11:24:35 -0700 (MST)
Subject: Forwarded message about paint
mjb.
----
------- Start of forwarded message -------
From: "Barry Glickstein" <bglickstein@earthlink.net>
To: mjb@autox.team.net
Subject:
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 12:10:7 -0500
Hello, I am looking for some help with the paint code for my 1967 3000 MK
III. The original color was a sky blue or ice blue. Can you help
me? Thank you.
Barry Glickstein
------- End of forwarded message -------
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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 11:27:20 -0700
Subject: Re: OD Failure on 62BJ7
Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: "DH" <donham1@cox.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, November 24, 2002 11:09 AM
Subject: OD Failure on 62BJ7
> List,need your imput as to why the OD just kicked out while driving at
about
> 50mph today. Was unable to re-engage OD using switch on dash.
>
> DH-62BJ7
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From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 13:39:30 EST
Subject: Re: Rear axle wind up on 100-4 BN2
Thanks.
Steve Mickelson
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 13:47:48 EST
Subject: Re: 100 M issue
<< Gary:
Do you think that two identical gold level 100M and 100 le mans
in the same color sitting side by side on the same day would actually differ
in
price by $10,000?????
ron (the skeptic) rader >>
Identical in all other respects, with the M fully documented and
unquestionably right with all original parts?
Yes, that's what I think--the difference in perceived value would be about
$10,000.
But, then everyone's entitled to an opinion; that's what perceptions are all
about.
Cheers
Gary
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 13:53:10 -0500
Subject: RE: OD Failure on 62BJ7
There is an excellent diagnostic section (G5) for your overdrive in your
factory Workshop Manual.
I would recommend that you start there.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of DH
Sent: 24-Nov-02 1:10 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: OD Failure on 62BJ7
List,need your imput as to why the OD just kicked out while driving at
about
50mph today. Was unable to re-engage OD using switch on dash.
DH-62BJ7
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 13:52:43 EST
Subject: Re: 100 M issue / He lives
<< HE LIVES !! GARY ANDERSON LIVES !!
But first I want some sort of certification and authenticity.
HAS SOMEONE BEEN DIGGING BEHIND THE "CAPE" ??? >>
Actually, I went looking for the Cape Works when I was in Warwick. Couldn't
find anyone who could direct me, even though I had the original address. I
did find what I believe to have been the site of the showroom on the high
street (there's an expensive low-rise apartment block built on the site
now), but managed to drive all over the place without finding the location.
Surprisingly, the folks at Gaydon didn't have a clue, even though the
location was within ten miles of Gaydon.
On the other hand, Warwick Castle is worth a day-trip on its own; you'll get
an entertaining capsulized history of England, complete with wax figures from
Mme Tussaud's, from the tenth to the twentieth century, all within the walls
of the castle.
If you're in England, carve out two days; one to visit BMIHT at Gaydon and
one to visit Warwick Castle.
Cheers
Gary
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From "Robert Wiley" <wileyrob at pacifier.com>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 11:00:40 -0800
Subject: Re: OD Failure on 62BJ7
Bob
----------
>From: "DH" <donham1@cox.net>
>To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: OD Failure on 62BJ7
>Date: Sun, Nov 24, 2002, 10:09 AM
>
> List,need your imput as to why the OD just kicked out while driving at about
> 50mph today. Was unable to re-engage OD using switch on dash.
>
> DH-62BJ7
> nclude this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
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From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 13:04:22 -0600
Subject: Re: windup problem response to Michael
> to say that excessive windup in rear axle does not contribute to handling
> problems is a bold statement.
I wondered about that statement myself. I've found that the axle hopping up and
down banging on the ground does not, in any way, contribute to good handling and
is a little distracting as well.
> what I am more interested in is the cause of excessive windup, whether
> suspension or inherent design problem, and its resolution.
Simply, the windup is due to "excessive" power applied to the rear wheels. If
you had an early Camaro or Firebird, you know what we are talking about. GM
solved the problem w/ traction bars and heavier bushings. That is a different
thing than you face--GM had 300+ hp in lightweight nearly front heavy cars. The
wheel/tire combination contributes to this malady, i.e. big fat tires that are
next to impossible to break loose. All this energy is being absorbed in the
drive line causing the springs to flex to the point where they cannot absorb
more
energy and spring back (or break). This usually happens in rapid succession
creating a fairly violent hopping action. This, of course, results in broken
drive line parts in fairly short order if left uncorrected.
Axle windup is caused by fighting between independent deflections: the control
arms and the rubber bushings. If your rear suspension is not top notch, these
types of problems manifest themselves quickly. The lowly control arm is usually
ignored because they are a bitch to change. Another source to consider is the
springs and mounting hardware. If they are tired, they will contribute to
windup. If your car pulls to the left on acceleration and pulls right on
deceleration, you could have loose spring shackles, as well.
Yes, traction bars, will alleviate your problem but you will be treating a
symptom rather than the cause. I suspect the suspension parts are tired and are
in need of attention. Most Healeys w/ a healthy suspension do not have the
power
to generate these types of problems.
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 528 (New census numbers)
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From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 13:27:14 -0600
Subject: Re: OD Failure on 62BJ7
>
> Michael Salter wrote:
> There is an excellent diagnostic section (G5) for your overdrive in your
> factory Workshop Manual.
>
> I would recommend that you start there.
He's right, of course. My money, however, is on the OD solenoid. Smell any
burning plastic or rubber prior to the event?
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 528 (New census numbers)
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 14:44:33 -0500
Subject: RE: Rear axle wind up on 100-4 BN2
There are various types of "axle windup" and these manifest themselves
in different ways in different situations.
The type that I'm most familiar with comes from the days when I used to
race a Hillman Imp. These cars use rubber doughnuts (Rotoflex couplings)
in the half shafts and these produce a weird bouncing in the drive train
if you shift a little over exuberantly.
Healeys have very stout half shafts and no Rotoflex couplings so this is
not likely to be a problem
What Healeys do have, however, is half elliptic rear leaf springs. These
are the cause of "spring windup" which can manifest itself, under hard
acceleration on rough surfaces, as axle tramp. This is where the rear
springs adopt an "S" shape and then the rear axle assembly actually
oscillates around the halfshaft axis and the wheels bounce up and down
as the energy stored in the springs is released. This incidentally is a
major contributor to the corrugations that you encounter on uphill
gravel roads, particularly those frequented by pick up trucks ;-)
Spring wind up is usually solved by fitting radius arms (a la late BJ8)
or anti tramp bars (a la muscle car)which contact the body near the
front mounts of the rear springs and prevent the axle from rotating.
Heavier shocks will also help to control it.
Healeys barely have enough power to cause axle tramp problems on paved
surfaces, nor do they have much rear axle travel, so if the rear shocks
are in good condition it is not a major problem. If however the car has
a grabbing clutch and or bad rear shocks, look out.
That is my $0.02 worth.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of SMickel950@aol.com
Sent: 24-Nov-02 1:40 PM
To: fourqz@earthlink.net; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Rear axle wind up on 100-4 BN2
I'm a dummy...could someone explain to me what "rear axle windup" is?
Thanks.
Steve Mickelson
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From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 11:48:22 -0800
Subject: Re: 100 M issue / He lives
She lives at '4 High Street, Warwick'
Kirk ;-)
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, November 24, 2002 10:52 AM
Subject: Re: 100 M issue / He lives
> In a message dated 11/23/02 4:29:10 PM, 62BT7@prodigy.net writes:
>
> << HE LIVES !! GARY ANDERSON LIVES !!
>
> But first I want some sort of certification and authenticity.
>
> HAS SOMEONE BEEN DIGGING BEHIND THE "CAPE" ??? >>
>
> Actually, I went looking for the Cape Works when I was in Warwick.
Couldn't
> find anyone who could direct me, even though I had the original address. I
> did find what I believe to have been the site of the showroom on the high
> street (there's an expensive low-rise apartment block built on the site
> now), but managed to drive all over the place without finding the
location.
> Surprisingly, the folks at Gaydon didn't have a clue, even though the
> location was within ten miles of Gaydon.
>
> On the other hand, Warwick Castle is worth a day-trip on its own; you'll
get
> an entertaining capsulized history of England, complete with wax figures
from
> Mme Tussaud's, from the tenth to the twentieth century, all within the
walls
> of the castle.
>
> If you're in England, carve out two days; one to visit BMIHT at Gaydon and
> one to visit Warwick Castle.
>
> Cheers
> Gary
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From "Bruce Starke" <bstarke at redshift.bc.ca>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 13:14:58 -0700
Subject: Clutch covers--what to do with the old ones
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From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 15:28:09 EST
Subject: Re: Rear axle wind up on 100-4 BN2
Appreciate the explanation.
(Also-Always wondered what caused [what we call "washboard"] the corrugations
on gravel roads).
Regards
Steve Mickelson
In a message dated 11/24/02 11:42:47 AM Pacific Standard Time,
msalter@precisionsportscar.com writes:
<< Hi Steve,
There are various types of "axle windup" and these manifest themselves
in different ways in different situations.
The type that I'm most familiar with comes from the days when I used to
race a Hillman Imp. These cars use rubber doughnuts (Rotoflex couplings)
in the half shafts and these produce a weird bouncing in the drive train
if you shift a little over exuberantly.
Healeys have very stout half shafts and no Rotoflex couplings so this is
not likely to be a problem
What Healeys do have, however, is half elliptic rear leaf springs. These
are the cause of "spring windup" which can manifest itself, under hard
acceleration on rough surfaces, as axle tramp. This is where the rear
springs adopt an "S" shape and then the rear axle assembly actually
oscillates around the halfshaft axis and the wheels bounce up and down
as the energy stored in the springs is released. This incidentally is a
major contributor to the corrugations that you encounter on uphill
gravel roads, particularly those frequented by pick up trucks ;-)
Spring wind up is usually solved by fitting radius arms (a la late BJ8)
or anti tramp bars (a la muscle car)which contact the body near the
front mounts of the rear springs and prevent the axle from rotating.
Heavier shocks will also help to control it.
Healeys barely have enough power to cause axle tramp problems on paved
surfaces, nor do they have much rear axle travel, so if the rear shocks
are in good condition it is not a major problem. If however the car has
a grabbing clutch and or bad rear shocks, look out.
That is my $0.02 worth.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com/ >>
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From "Jim Hill" <jrhill at chorus.net>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 14:52:15 -0600
Subject: 100 M issue
In addition to the discussion of what constitutes a "real" 100M (and how to
prove it), I've seen references on this list to non-"M" cars as being a "100
Le Mans" or a "100M reproduction".
There appears (?) to be general agreement that a genuine (factory) 100M was
a separate model (designated by the factory as the 100M) and that this group
includes the 640 cars with Job Production Cards containing the notation
"Louvered bonnet", and the unknown number of earlier 100M cars fitted with
the 100M modifications (not just the Le Mans kit) by the DHMC in Warwick.
How one proves that a particular car is one of that group is, of course, a
separate question.
And I'll assume that a "100M reproduction" is an admittedly standard car
which has been made to "look like" a 100M. Since no special heritage is
claimed, a buyer can make his/her own judgment as to the quality of the
reproduction.
But what exactly is a "100 Le Mans"? Since that's not a factory designation,
is there general agreement as to its meaning? Can it be a BN1 or a BN2? Must
the Le Mans Engine Modification kit be the original factory kit? Must it
have been installed by the DHMC?
Jim Hill
Madison WI
PS: There's yet another alleged 'M' listed on eBay (the one with the
"automatic transmission" and "1 mile" on the odometer). An email inquiry
about the automatic transmission, the lack of photos of the underhood 'M'
equipment and the absence of a commission number or reference to a BMIHT
certificate got no response from the seller.
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 16:06:23 -0500
Subject: RE: 100 M issue / He lives
http://members.rogers.com/magicare/images/View2.jpg
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of 62BT7
Sent: 24-Nov-02 2:48 PM
To: Editorgary@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: 100 M issue / He lives
Maybe, Margot Healey knows.
She lives at '4 High Street, Warwick'
Kirk ;-)
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, November 24, 2002 10:52 AM
Subject: Re: 100 M issue / He lives
> In a message dated 11/23/02 4:29:10 PM, 62BT7@prodigy.net writes:
>
> << HE LIVES !! GARY ANDERSON LIVES !!
>
> But first I want some sort of certification and authenticity.
>
> HAS SOMEONE BEEN DIGGING BEHIND THE "CAPE" ??? >>
>
> Actually, I went looking for the Cape Works when I was in Warwick.
Couldn't
> find anyone who could direct me, even though I had the original
address. I
> did find what I believe to have been the site of the showroom on the
high
> street (there's an expensive low-rise apartment block built on the
site
> now), but managed to drive all over the place without finding the
location.
> Surprisingly, the folks at Gaydon didn't have a clue, even though the
> location was within ten miles of Gaydon.
>
> On the other hand, Warwick Castle is worth a day-trip on its own;
you'll
get
> an entertaining capsulized history of England, complete with wax
figures
from
> Mme Tussaud's, from the tenth to the twentieth century, all within the
walls
> of the castle.
>
> If you're in England, carve out two days; one to visit BMIHT at Gaydon
and
> one to visit Warwick Castle.
>
> Cheers
> Gary
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
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From "John" <john4 at attbi.com>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 13:13:40 -0800
Subject: OpenRoads 2002 video
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 24 Jan 2003 16:28:11 -0500
Subject: Re: 100 M issue / He lives
The BT7 comes home from the body shop tomorrow and will be ready for the new
Heratage leather seats front and rear. Winter just started and I can't wait
for spring 8^). Cheers, JL
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7 Tri-carb
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From Marty Filardi <marty_filardi at yahoo.com>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 13:41:13 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: float repair , brass
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 17:32:41 EST
Subject: English Gearhead Destinations (was He's Alive!)
<< Gary. I'll certainly second your comments on BMIHT and Warwick castle but
folks should know that if you are going to Gaydon you must have
transportation. It is in the middle of nowhere or at least it seemed that
way to me. It is a must see though if you are driving around the Midlands.
That said, I could use some info on Beaulie (sp?). We plan to make that part
of our annual trip to England this spring. I've heard a lot about it but
only know it is somewhere south of London. >>
Glad you asked -- You're right that Gaydon seems like it is in the middle of
nowhere, but it actually is quite easy to get to, less than half a mile from
a major motorway exit and only one M road exit from Warwick. You could easily
take British Rail to Warwick, then catch a taxi to Gaydon, or if you wanted a
bit more English experience, get directions at the Warwick train station to
go by one of the country buses. It is a ways away from London, however, and
really requires a day trip, though it's close to Stratford, and just north of
the Cotswolds, so it is a rewarding part of a three-day loop out of London.
Want some fun? You can rent a new Morgan 4/4 at Wykeham's Garage in South
Kensington (easy to get out of London from there on the A4 towards Heathrow)
and then spend the three days cruising the small Cotswold villages, Gaydon,
and Warwick. Info at www.wykehams.com
Beaulieu (pronounced Byou-lee, if you need to ask directions) is the
ancestral home of Lord Montagu of Beaulieu, whose father and grandfather
before him were gearheads (His grandfather took the king of England on his
first ride in a motorcar, and that Lord Montagu's mistress was the model for
the "Spirit of Ecstacy" Rolls Royce hood ornament -- she was spotted by the
sculptor running around the garden in her nightgown the morning after a wild
party -- I'm not making that up!). After getting tired of having his car
collection in his entry hall (all those oil drips on the oriental carpets,
doncha' know?), the current Lord Montagu funded the building of the National
Motor Museum next to the house. The estate grounds are used each year for the
best English autojumble (swapmeet) held in that country.
To get directions, go to www.beaulieu.co.uk, click on National Motor Museum,
and then on visitor information, and scroll down to "How to get here."
Or, if you can wait until September, we're going to be organizing another
gearhead tour of England, that will start at the Goodwood Revival, then tour
by Morgans to Beaulieu, Gaydon, Warwick, Morgan factory and the Cotswolds,
with an optional aftertour run out to the Welsh coast to sample some of the
great historic rally roads across the Welsh marches. Probably cost about
$3,000 a person, two people per car/room. Anyone interested, let me know.
Cheers
gary
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From "GM" <altec210 at yahoo.com>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 17:34:50 -0500
Subject: Re: Rear axle wind up on 100-4 BN2
GM
----- Original Message -----
> Hi Jonathan,
>
> Having raced and rallyed my 100S a fair bit I can say that I have never
> encountered a handling problem that I could attribute specifically to
> rear axle wind up.
> What exactly are you experiencing that leads you to believe that this is
> the cause of a problem?
>
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com/
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From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 17:34:19 EST
Subject: Re: 100 M issue / He lives. Now Beaulieu
Have a great time, we did.
Rick Neville
Neither an Earl of Warwick or a kingmaker.
In a message dated 11/24/02 5:30:43 PM, clocks@midcoast.com writes:
<<Gary. I'll certainly second your comments on BMIHT and Warwick castle but
folks should know that if you are going to Gaydon you must have
transportation. It is in the middle of nowhere or at least it seemed that
way to me. It is a must see though if you are driving around the Midlands.
That said, I could use some info on Beaulie (sp?). We plan to make that part
of our annual trip to England this spring. I've heard a lot about it but
only know it is somewhere south of London.>>
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 17:38:33 EST
Subject: Re: 100 M issue / He lives
<< Maybe, Margot Healey knows.
She lives at '4 High Street, Warwick'
Kirk ;-) >>
Figured she would know, but I didn't have her address, and she's not in the
phone book (probably tired of having people call her up to ask where the Cape
Works are). I would have called Graham Robson, but he was out of the country
at the time.
Has anyone on this list actually been there recently? I understand the
Quonset hut that constituted the "Cape Works" is long gone, but that the Cape
of Good Hope Pub is still nearby -- but no one I asked knew where that was
either. Guess I should have asked the guy in the armor suit on his horse at
the castle.
Cheers
gary
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 17:58:29 EST
Subject: Re: float repair , brass
> Before I drilled the
> hole I put the float in a pot of boiling water to find
> the leak. I could not see it otherwise
I know that there are plastic floats but I've been told that they develop
leaks as well. I'm wondering why no one has produced floats filled with a
closed-cell foam that would not absorb fuel. BTW, on the way to Tahoe this
summer I was travelling with Clive Randall who was driving the Westland
Healey. He developed a sunken float about half-way between Wendover, Utah
and Ealey, NV. We repaired the leak with JB weld and I think he had it
soldered up some time later. Is JB Weld permanently fuel-proof or will gas
eat it up in time?
Best--Michael
Best--Michael
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 18:06:28 EST
Subject: Re: 100 M issue / He lives
<< If you're in England, carve out two days; one to visit BMIHT at Gaydon and
one to visit Warwick Castle.
Cheers
Gary >>
You did go to the "Cape of Good Hope" for a pint?
Rick
San Diego
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 18:16:01 -0500
Subject: RE: Rear axle wind up on 100-4 BN2
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of GM
Sent: 24-Nov-02 5:35 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Rear axle wind up on 100-4 BN2
Does the 'S' have the same shocks/valving and springs of the 100-4? A
rear
swaybar or other spring control?
GM
----- Original Message -----
> Hi Jonathan,
>
> Having raced and rallyed my 100S a fair bit I can say that I have
never
> encountered a handling problem that I could attribute specifically to
> rear axle wind up.
> What exactly are you experiencing that leads you to believe that this
is
> the cause of a problem?
>
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com/
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From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 10:19:00 +1100
Subject: RE: Rear axle wind up on 100-4 BN2
Even after 30 plus years of Austin-Healey ownership I still find it frightening
to run about with the rear seats out and watch how much the rear axle jumps up
and down.
However the worst example of axle wind up I saw was some fourteen years back
when I was running a friend's very quick AH 100 in a hillclimb. (No it was a
rare non M model and much quicker) I swung into the slow first corner and
managed to get the four-speed box back into first and planted the foot. The
axle wound up to the extent that it put so much stress on the differential
pinion gear that the gear gouged through the bottom of the differential housing
and completely locked the diff.
He is still a friend.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 18:47:42 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ8 Tool Kit
OOPs!!! My parts list does not have page MR1 either . . . or any other
pages!!!
Would someone send me a complete parts list for a BJ8??? :)
Keith Pennell
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 18:54:14 -0500
Subject: Re: OD Failure on 62BJ7
Larry, et al,
I agree. 20 or more years ago I had the same situation with the BJ8.
Removed the cap on the solenoid and filed the contacts lightly. Has worked
perfectly ever since. KNOCK ON WOOD
Keith Pennell
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From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 00:15:34 +0000
Subject: after market points and condenser
Is there a NAPA part number for points and condenser for the DM6 distributor? I
think my Pertronix electronic unit went south today. Spark from coil but
nothing from the distributor. Changed the cap and rotor. No go.
--
Mark
59 BT7
Carson, CA
-
-
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From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 00:21:45 +0000
Subject: brake lights
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 18:52:14 -0600
Subject: Re: 100 M issue
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From "Sigi B.- Koenigs" <SigiBKoenigs at comcast.net>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 20:01:22 -0500
Subject: AH 3000 down pipes
Sigi Koenigs
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 20:08:19 EST
Subject: Re: 100 M issue
> PS: There's yet another alleged 'M' listed on eBay (the one with the
> "automatic transmission"
That must be one of super-rare ATM's.
Best--Michael
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From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 19:10:22 -0600
Subject: brake line problem, seat rail question
Sincerely
Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
Sturgeon Bay, WI.
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 19:24:00 -0600
Subject: Re: BJ8 Tool Kit
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 19:28:42 -0600
Subject: Re: OD Failure on 62BJ7
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 19:36:26 -0600
Subject: Re: brake line problem, seat rail question
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 17:55:17 -0800
Subject: Re: brake line problem, seat rail question
As an aside, since our BN1 was an early car, I wanted to retain the
original threaded fittings. Doug took them, replated them and
installed them on the new lines before he sent them to me. No extra
charge.
-Roland
satisfied customer
On Sun, 24 Nov 2002 19:36:26 -0600, Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
wrote:
:: for superb fitting brake line kits, contact doug reid at 18G motorworks.
:his email is mrfinespanner@prodigy.net
:: dicksonr@uwm.edu wrote:
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 21:47:55 EST
Subject: Re: brake line problem, seat rail question
> evidently Doug has 'hangar queens' to use to check the bends he makes
> on the various sizes of Healeys. At least the ones for my BN1 fit at
> least as well as the originals I took off.
>
>
Actually he (Doug Reid) has jigs assembled out of lengths of 2x4's with nails
imbedded in them for the curves, etc.--different ones for each car so he gets
accurate results.
Best--Michael
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From MeditionM at netscape.net
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 23:49:49 -0500
Subject: RE: brake line problem, seat rail question
dicksonr@uwm.edu wrote:
>I recently purchased a brake pipe kit from Moss. What a pile of junk. It was
>supposed to be the all inclusive variety I guess. A couple of the pipes were
>way too long. I was wondering, since I have to cut and reflair a pipe, what
>is
>the proper method of flairing. I have a flair kit, however, it is for the
>typical American style flairs. Is it true that the British flair have an
>inverted flair, and if so how can I accomplish this by myself???
>Another question I have is regarding seat rails. Today I went through my seat
>rails, sandblasted, wire wheeled, punched out the old rusty 1/4 bolts, welded
>in new ones, etc. Anyway, I painted them temporarly with a Rustoleum cold-
>galvanizing zinc paint. I really would have like to chrome plated or
>something
>different, albeit cheaply. Any ideas out there???
>Thanks in advance.
>
>Sincerely
>Randy Dickson
>Healey Archaeologist
>Sturgeon Bay, WI.
__________________________________________________________________
The NEW Netscape 7.0 browser is now available. Upgrade now!
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From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 21:49:14 -0800
Subject: Re: brake lights
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
----- Original Message -----
From: <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, November 24, 2002 4:21 PM
Subject: brake lights
> Listers,
> Should the brake lights come on when the ignition is off or does the
ignition
> have to be on? Mine only come on when the key is on and I thought this
was odd.
> Thanks
> --
> Mark
> 59 BT7
> Carson, CA
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 23:37:56 -0800 (PST)
Subject: re. brake line problem, seat rail question
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 19:10:22 -0600
From: dicksonr@uwm.edu
Subject: brake line problem, seat rail question
I recently purchased a brake pipe kit from Moss. What
a pile of junk.
It was
supposed to be the all inclusive variety I guess. A
couple of the
pipes were
way too long.
__________________________________________________
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 17:56:26 -0800
Subject: Re: English Gearhead Destinations (was He's Alive!)
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 11/24/02 1:30:15 PM, clocks@midcoast.com writes:
>
> Want some fun? You can rent a new Morgan 4/4 at Wykeham's Garage in South
> Kensington (easy to get out of London from there on the A4 towards Heathrow)
> and then spend the three days cruising the small Cotswold villages, Gaydon,
> and Warwick. Info at www.wykehams.com
>
> Beaulieu (pronounced Byou-lee, if you need to ask directions) is the
> ancestral home of Lord Montagu of Beaulieu, whose father and grandfather
> before him were gearheads (His grandfather took the king of England on his
> first ride in a motorcar, and that Lord Montagu's mistress was the model for
> the "Spirit of Ecstacy" Rolls Royce hood ornament -- she was spotted by the
> sculptor running around the garden in her nightgown the morning after a wild
> party -- I'm not making that up!). After getting tired of having his car
> collection in his entry hall (all those oil drips on the oriental carpets,
> doncha' know?), the current Lord Montagu funded the building of the National
> Motor Museum next to the house. The estate grounds are used each year for the
> best English autojumble (swapmeet) held in that country.
>
> To get directions, go to www.beaulieu.co.uk, click on National Motor Museum,
> and then on visitor information, and scroll down to "How to get here."
>
> Or, if you can wait until September, we're going to be organizing another
> gearhead tour of England, that will start at the Goodwood Revival, then tour
> by Morgans to Beaulieu, Gaydon, Warwick, Morgan factory and the Cotswolds,
> with an optional aftertour run out to the Welsh coast to sample some of the
> great historic rally roads across the Welsh marches. Probably cost about
> $3,000 a person, two people per car/room. Anyone interested, let me know.
>
> Cheers
> gary
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 23:44:19 +1100
Subject: Vacuum advance number for a 100M?
I understand 100Ms are different?
Thanks & best regards
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
1954 BN1 & 1966 BJ8
'one of the first and one of the last'
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
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From skip <tfsbj7 at mindspring.com>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 09:14:02 -0500
Subject: Re: brake line problem, seat rail question
The Snap-On Bubble Flare maker is expensive (I think I paid
somewhere around $100
for mine)... but it works. The trick (I found) is to have the
tubing extend
just slightly (about 1/32 inch) above the grip handle before
inserting the
flare-making end. The trick (also) is to be sure the grip
handle is very
securely fastened.... if the tubing slips, the joint is
ruined. After a couple
of practice runs on some scrap tubing, I've had perfect bubble
flares everytime
(knock on wood).
It actually gets fun after you feel confident in the process.
good luck
-skip-
MeditionM@netscape.net wrote:
>
> Randy
>.... There are special flaring tools for this double flare process.
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 09:16:34 -0500
Subject: Re: brake line problem, seat rail question
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7 Tri-carb
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From Drtrite at aol.com
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 09:40:36 EST
Subject: Re: after market points and condenser
<< Pertronix electronic unit went south today. >>
Contact Pertronix and they can send you information on field testing the unit.
Don
NTAHC
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From Drtrite at aol.com
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 09:40:39 EST
Subject: Re: brake line problem, seat rail question
<< I recently purchased a brake pipe kit >>
Contact Doug Reig at 18G Motors. I have purchased a number of lines and a
full kit for my BJ8 and they have all been top quality.
I noticed someone posted information about his fixtures. Interesting
information if you want to buy fixtures from him. No matter how they are
manufactured, the end result, and that is what you want, is quality.
Don
NTAHC
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From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 10:56:07 EST
Subject: Re: Vacuum advance number for a 100M?
Here are the numbers for the 100M distributors and their corresponding vacuum
advance units.
Distributor no., early 40422B - Unit, vacuum control 420755, E.C.M Curve
No. 569 (15-17 degrees)
Distributor no., later 40520A - Unit, vacuum control 54411233, E.C.M.
Curve No. 569 (16-18 degrees)
Cheers,
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5 :{)
In a message dated 11/25/02 4:55:36 AM Pacific Standard Time,
cd3000@bigpond.net.au writes:
<< Can anyone tell me the Vacuum advance part number for a 100M (std one is
#420006 or #421189? ) - and the advance code (eg 5-12-8)?
I understand 100Ms are different? >>
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 11:11:31 EST
Subject: Re: after market points and condenser
<< Hi Guys,
Is there a NAPA part number for points and condenser for the DM6 distributor?
I
think my Pertronix electronic unit went south today. Spark from coil but
nothing from the distributor. Changed the cap and rotor. No go.
--
Mark
59 BT7
Carson, CA
- >>
If you are getting a spark at the coil then the electronic ignition is
working. Check to see if you have any spark at the plugs, if not then check
for a broken rotor.
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 11:25:08 EST
Subject: Re: brake lights
<< Listers,
Should the brake lights come on when the ignition is off or does the ignition
have to be on? Mine only come on when the key is on and I thought this was
odd.
Thanks
--
Mark
59 BT7
Carson, CA
- >>
No the brake lights only work with the key on, they are fed with a Green wire
which is a hot fused circuit only with the key on. If you want the brake
lights to work without the key turned on you can change the wire that feed
the brake light switch, and supply it with power from the purple wire on the
fuse box.
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Roberta and Bob Johnson" <bandrj at earthlink.net>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 11:31:06 -0500
Subject: Fw: BJ8 Erratic Tach
So if you are detirmined to do it yourself, open you tach per David
Masucci's instructions and examine all of the parts. It turned out that in
David's parts list that my particular tach had only one of the resistors
that was listed. So then go to this website:
http://webhome.idirect.com/~jadams/electronics/resistor_codes.htm to find
out exactly what resisitors you need.
http://www.pmel.org/HandBook/HBpage26.htm for capacitors, then order the
parts. David's replacements for the transistors are correct (even though the
Mouser website says that they are a replacement for something else.) Oh joy,
Mouser only carries a 130 uf capacitor, therefore it can't be 310uf (Ihope.)
Bob Johnson
BJ8
> David,
>
> Thanks again for posting the rebuild instructions for the tach. I think
that
> there may be a slight problem in the parts list. However, since I haven't
> taken the tach out since I received my parts from Mouser I can't be sure,
> but part no. 292-3.0K is a very tiny square, flat "chip" resistor with no
> pigtails. All of the others are the old style barrel shaped resistors. Is
> this right? (I'm posting this now before anyone else might order parts.)
>
> Bob Johnson
> BJ8
>
>
> > Hi All,
> >
> > A NUMBER of months ago, I sent out a notice to the list about my rebuild
> for
> > the BJ8 Electronic tach.
>
> <snip>
> >
> > The document is in the form of a PDF file. But it came out kinda
> big....it's
> > about 500K. You can download it from my site...the link is below. If
that
> > doesn't work for you, I can snail mail a printout of this. Let me know
if
> > you need that. Some people did at the time, but please let me know
again.
> >
> > Anyway...here it is. Good luck, and I'm sorry for the delay.
> >
> > Click on the link below. Go to the BOTTOM of the page, and right click
on
> > the UPDATE to save the
> > document.
> > http://www.radiantsoundworks.com/AustinHealey.html
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 11:50:28 EST
Subject: Re: 100 M issue
Cheers
Gary Anderson
In a message dated 11/24/02 4:54:39 PM, jwbn6@iopener.net writes:
<< what if someone had special ordered a BN2 with only a louvered bonnet --
don't you suppose it would show "louvered bonnet" on the BMIHT sheet ?
Jim Hill wrote:
>
> Not to prolong the 100M thread unnecessarily, but . . .
>
> In addition to the discussion of what constitutes a "real" 100M (and how to
> prove it), I've seen references on this list to non-"M" cars as being a
"100
> Le Mans" or a "100M reproduction >>
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 12:28:42 -0500
Subject: Healey Overdrive Solenoid deal. Delete if not interested.
I have the opportunity to purchase a job lot of new overdrive solenoids.
These are the currently available repro type and all will be tested
before shipping.
Also fit Jags, TR2 - 6, and other cars with "A" type overdrives.
This type is also interchangeable with the earlier type used on BN1/2.
Moss number 145-720 list $129.95ea.
They will cost $US75 ($CDN120) ea. and handling and shipping by Surface
will be $US5 (up to 5 weeks) or Air $8.00 (up to 10 days).
Taxes extra for Canadians.
Shipping extra for offshore.
I anticipate that we will get the solenoids within 10 days of ordering
but I have to order a lot to get this price and they have to be ordered
very soon.
Please contact me off line before Friday 29th Nov. if you are
interested.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
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From Earle Knobloch <armynavy at gte.net>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 12:27:58 -0500
Subject: Porsche group
Earle Knobloch
Estero, Florida
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 13:02:34 -0500
Subject: RE: The Cape
The first pic below is one of the ones that I took in Warwick a couple
of weeks back
The second pic below is of Donald standing in front of The Cape Works.
Looks like the right place to me!
Many thanks to Ward and Scott for your input.
http://members.rogers.com/magicare/images/view3.jpg
http://members.rogers.com/magicare/images/oldcape.jpg
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com/
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From Ptuleysr at cs.com
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 13:26:32 EST
Subject: Re: float repair , brass
Price
60BT7
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From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 14:31:50 EST
Subject: Lucas Relay Help
O.K. here's a real esoteric question for any of you Lucas experts out there.
I have a NOS Lucas Relay, model no. SB40/1 with the part no. 33135B.
According to my Lucas book its application is for W.T. Horns, which I assume
to be Wind Tone Horns. This relay is identical to the 33157A/D relay used in
the BN1/2s for the overdrive, i.e. same model no. SB40/1 and voltage, 12V.
The only exception is that the NOS 33157A/D relay that I also have has the
red sticker on it labeled "Overdrive Relay".
Are these relays interchangeable, since I'll need two of them for my BN1?
Thanks,
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5
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From "rob" <rob at iwjlaw.com>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 11:34:35 -0800
Subject: Len
Regards,
Rob
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From "Mike Rose" <lytspeed at hotmail.com>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 14:40:24 -0500
Subject: For Sale
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From RLoosigian at aol.com
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 15:21:37 EST
Subject: BJ8 front bumperette
Thanks
Ralph Loosigian
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From "John" <john4 at attbi.com>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 13:38:43 -0800
Subject: Golden Gate AHC holiday party
Holiday wrap-up party Dec 1 at TRs in Concord
Mark your calendars: Sunday, December 1, 2002 is the Golden Gate Austin Healey
Club's Annual Holiday dinner.
WHERE: T. R.'s Restaurant in Concord.
WHEN: Things start at 3PM. Dinner served at 4:30.
Dan Sekella has arranged for a 4-course, sit-down, semi-formal
dinner with a choice of four entrees:
Grilled New York Steak
Grilled Free Range Chicken w/pesto sauce
Grilled Salmon w/lemon dill butter sauce
Spinach/Mushroom Enchilada
All entrees will be served with garlic mashed potatoes and fresh
vegetables. First course will be a mixed green salad with vinaigrette
dressing; following the entree will be a Lemon Mousse with raspberry sauce
dessert, coffee or tea.
Cash Bar.
PRICE: $27.50, inclusive, per person.
Please send check payable to A-H Club Holiday 2002 to:
Dan Sekella
1410 Mohr Court
Concord, CA 94518
When you send in your reservations, please indicate your choice of entrees
and any special requests, e.g., steak will be prepared medium unless you
specify otherwise.
Marty Allen is planning to show the wrap-up presentation he made for
the last night of OpenRoads 2002 at the party. If you havent seen this
presentation, dont miss it. If you have seen it, we know youll enjoy seeing
it again. This show is sensational.
DIRECTIONS TO TRs: From the south: take I-680 thorough Walnut Creek and
bear right on Route 242. Exit at Clayton Road. Follow Clayton Road
approximately one to Galindo Street. Turn left and go three blocks to Salvio
Street. TRs is on the right. Park on Salvio Street or around Todos Santos
Square or in the public garage on Salvio.
From the north take I-680 to Willow Pass Road, turn left (east) and
go under I-680. Go one mile to Galindo Street. TRs in one block up on the
right.
For more information, questions, etc., contact Dan at
925-825-8966 or at sekella@pacbell.net.
We will also have elections for club officers and cover other club
business as needed. If you are interested in serving as a Golden Gate officer,
please contact John Trifari at 408-541-9608 or at John4@attbi.com.
We need a head count by November 20. Please send your checks to
Dan as soon as possible. See you December 1 at TRs.
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From Slvrbulit2 at aol.com
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 17:26:55 EST
Subject: brake line tool
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From David Masucci <david_m at radiantsoundworks.com>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 17:42:55 -0500
Subject: Re: Fw: BJ8 Erratic Tach
That 56 ohm resistor was on the list, so that's a match. As to none of
the other resistors being the same value, did you use my list, or the
one from the Sunbeam article? The values ARE different for different
versions of the tach. I ASSUME that all BJ8's use the same values, but
no guarantee. Although the schematic seemed to be the same as the
Sunbeams, many of the parts were of different values.
I do agree that if you're not comfortable doing this kind of work, then
don't do it. As stated, I offer only advice if I can.
Regards,
Dave Masucci
Roberta and Bob Johnson wrote:
>To anyone thinking about rebuilding their own tach, think about it for a
>while, unless you actually DO know what you are doing. I thought it would be
>find one like this one and replace it. It is more complex than that. Reading
>resistors is no big deal. Capacitors might not be. Printed ones are OK,
>however I found one disc type that was color coded. Did a Goole search on
>capacitor color codes. Pretty much the same as resistors, but.... this
>particular capacitor has two (not 3, or 5, or 6 marks. And they wrap around
>the cap. You read the numbers clockwise it says in one place. Both sides are
>the same!! So is it br, or (brown, orange) from one side or orande brown
>(clockwise on the other side?) And what about a multiplier? Oh, along the
>edge are three marks, good, br,or,br. Now it is 130 uf. No wait, in another
>place it says read center as first, right as second color band, and left as
>third. Hmmm, thats 310 uf. Who do I beleive? My tach has a pink piece that
>looks like a capacitor but is marked 56 ohm 5%. Must be a resistor?
>
>So if you are detirmined to do it yourself, open you tach per David
>Masucci's instructions and examine all of the parts. It turned out that in
>David's parts list that my particular tach had only one of the resistors
>that was listed. So then go to this website:
>http://webhome.idirect.com/~jadams/electronics/resistor_codes.htm to find
>out exactly what resisitors you need.
>http://www.pmel.org/HandBook/HBpage26.htm for capacitors, then order the
>parts. David's replacements for the transistors are correct (even though the
>Mouser website says that they are a replacement for something else.) Oh joy,
>Mouser only carries a 130 uf capacitor, therefore it can't be 310uf (Ihope.)
>
>Bob Johnson
>BJ8
>
>
>
>
>>David,
>>
>>Thanks again for posting the rebuild instructions for the tach. I think
>>
>>
>that
>
>
>>there may be a slight problem in the parts list. However, since I haven't
>>taken the tach out since I received my parts from Mouser I can't be sure,
>>but part no. 292-3.0K is a very tiny square, flat "chip" resistor with no
>>pigtails. All of the others are the old style barrel shaped resistors. Is
>>this right? (I'm posting this now before anyone else might order parts.)
>>
>>Bob Johnson
>>BJ8
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>Hi All,
>>>
>>>A NUMBER of months ago, I sent out a notice to the list about my rebuild
>>>
>>>
>>for
>>
>>
>>>the BJ8 Electronic tach.
>>>
>>>
>><snip>
>>
>>
>>>The document is in the form of a PDF file. But it came out kinda
>>>
>>>
>>big....it's
>>
>>
>>>about 500K. You can download it from my site...the link is below. If
>>>
>>>
>that
>
>
>>>doesn't work for you, I can snail mail a printout of this. Let me know
>>>
>>>
>if
>
>
>>>you need that. Some people did at the time, but please let me know
>>>
>>>
>again.
>
>
>>>Anyway...here it is. Good luck, and I'm sorry for the delay.
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From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 10:03:45 +1100
Subject: RE: The Cape
I have seen the second pic before with DMH standing next to the Sebring car,
but did you notice that behind and with its nose facing the wall is my BN3/1?
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2002 5:03 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: The Cape
Oh ye of little faith.
The first pic below is one of the ones that I took in Warwick a couple
of weeks back
The second pic below is of Donald standing in front of The Cape Works.
Looks like the right place to me!
Many thanks to Ward and Scott for your input.
http://members.rogers.com/magicare/images/view3.jpg
http://members.rogers.com/magicare/images/oldcape.jpg
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com/
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 18:20:24 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ8 front bumperette
The owner of this car should be in touch with you shortly.
Another fine service of the BJ8 Registry.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: RLoosigian@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, November 25, 2002 3:21 PM
Subject: BJ8 front bumperette
Reference the Moss Motors, British Motoring Magazine, Winter 2000, Volume
21,
Number 4, which was just received. On page 8 is the photo of a green BJ8
that
appears to have Sprite bumperettes on the front. I am wondering whether
anyone knows who the owner of the car is, or whether the owner is on the
list. I would like more info on how they were mounted, where the brackets
came from, etc. I know that there are several sources for mounting brackets
for the rear but have never seen front brackets advertised.
Thanks
Ralph Loosigian
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From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 23:26:44 +0000
Subject: Re: after market points and condenser - the fix
The problem was not the Pertronix unit. The story is that my wife and I, and
other another couple in a '65 356 Porche decided to take a coastal drive up to
Santa Barbara from Los Angeles. All was well, the car running fine and the sun
was shining. Then I noticed a slight low speed stumble from the Healey. We
continued to drive until I thought I'd take a look under the hood. Every seemed
OK, but I decided to look under the distributor cap. I noticed some fine brass
filings from the rotor hitting the brass terminals on the cap and I made the
discision to change the rotor. The car started and we continued the drive.
The stumble continued. As we drive, the engine miss got worse and it was
decided to return to L.A. Well, on the southbound I-5 to I-405 interchange (at
about 70 MPH) I lost power. The engine died. I pulled over, tried to start the
car, it turns over but would start. I checked for spark at the coil...It's OK,
I got fuel. I check for spark at the plug...No spark. At this point I'm
thinking that the Pertronix unit failed, but my thinking wasn't clear. I
changed the distributor cap...nope. I had towed it home.
Today I called Pertronix, I explained the problem and the technician told it
wasn't the modual. He says,"If there is spark at the coil then electronic
modual is signalling the coil to fire." It was. He toldme to check the
timing. Was the rotor pointing to #1 at TDC on the compression stroke? Yes it
was. I was stumped. I checked the continuity from the coil wire to the
dizzy ..It was OK. I checked from the #1 terminal in the cap to the end of the
spark plug wire terminal the type that screws onto the wire, ...No continuity!
Bad wire? I check another wire...Nothing!! I unsrewed the spark plug terminal
and checked just the wire...It's OK. I checked the terminal itself and NO
CONTINUITY!! Checked another, same results! Bad terminals? WRONG. I know, I
know, you already know that there is a resister in the terminal and continuity
can't be tested with an ohm meter. Well I didn't know that. So I changed the
wires and knowing that all is going be fine, I hit the starter button and
NOTHING. It spins but doesn't start. About this time my neighbor from across
the street comes over to see why I'm cussing at the car. He's a retired
electrical engineer. I explain what I've done and he listens... he tells me
about the resistor in the terminals and tells me I probably can't measure the
continuity with my multimeter because it is probably 20mega ohms and my meter
only goes to 2M Ohms. I was skeptical, but I was ready to listen. He says put
the car back the way it was when it ran. So I decided put the old rotor back
in first and then the distributor cap. So I changed the rotor and tried it, and
it started!! The replacement Lucas rotor was bad. Now the original "stumble"
may still be there. I can't tell and now I'm wondering if it was my over active
imagination. Anyway, I learned a lot and credit my neighbor with the save.
--
Mark
59 BT7
Carson, CA
-
-
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From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 18:40:46 -0600
Subject: brake line flares
If you are looking to re-flare your shortened Moss lines a standard
inverted/double flaring tool set will work fine. These are the ones
that produce what you might call a "concave" flare with a two-step process, as
opposed to those which produce a "convex" (bubble-
shaped) flare in a one-step process. Two things to be cautious of:
use a quality tool, like NAPA or Old Forge, not something made in
Taiwan, and, if you are flaring copper brake line, be gentle.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
>Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 19:10:22 -0600
>From: dicksonr@uwm.edu
>Subject: brake line problem, seat rail question
>I recently purchased a brake pipe kit from Moss. What a pile of junk. >It
was
>supposed to be the all inclusive variety I guess. A couple of the pipes
>were
>way too long. I was wondering, since I have to cut and reflair a pipe, >what
is
>the proper method of flairing. I have a flair kit, however, it is for the
>typical American style flairs. Is it true that the British have an
>inverted flair, and if so how can I accomplish this by myself???
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From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 18:43:03 -0600
Subject: THANKS and END OF THE LINE
Listers in the AHCUSA may have noticed my brake line ad no longer
appears in A-H Magazine. This is for two reasons: I have moved and
have not set up a new shop yet, and Girling has DISCONTINUED
production and sale of original A-H brake line fittings. This means no
more concours brake line sets with authentic Girling parts. I have
managed to scrounge enough NOS Girling bits from several sources
to make up SIX more concours sets; after those six sets are gone any
future production will be with reproduction fittings only. Anyone who
would like one of these last six Girling-fitted sets please contact me off
list. They will be available on a first come, first serve basis.
Lastly, due to the never-ending interference of the U.S. government in
things automotive, all future 18G FUEL LINES will be available in
stainless steel only.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 17:07:57 -0700
Subject: Re: 100 M issue
Bill Lawrence
Mark Endicott wrote:
> OK, since we are coming out of the closet, my 100 has the "kit" too. There
> I said it! I feel better now. And no it doesn't have the louvered bonnet,
> I like to think of it as a sleeper... With 16 previous owners, most of them
> dead, who knows when or how it got that way.
>
> Mark
> Nashville
> BN1 150202
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <bn1@pacbell.net>
> To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
> Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, November 23, 2002 4:41 PM
> Subject: Re: 100 M issue
>
> > Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > <snip>
> >
> > > For anyone who owns an original 100 that has not yet been converted into
> a
> > > "Factory M", hang onto it as such cars are getting exceedingly rare!
> > >
> > > Best--Michael Oritt (1955 100 Le Mans--NOT an M)
> >
> > I love it, Michael. Unfortunately my BN1 had the kit, less the louvered
> bonnet, added in
> > 1954 by the PO. Damn, screwed again!
> >
> > Bill Barnett
> > Santa Ana, CA
> > BN1 #663 Whatever it is!
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 18:41:55 -0700
Subject: Re: Porsche group
Earle Knobloch wrote:
...similar to this Austin Healey group??
>
> Earle Knobloch
> Estero, Florida
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 18:09:02 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: BJ8 front bumperette
Front bumperettes were never mounted on the rally cars
(at least not that I'm aware of), that's why no one
sells them. You can probably have your local metal
shop or body shop make up a pair of mounts for about
a Hundred bucks, or frankly even less if they use your
current bumper irons and modify them.
Good Luck,
Alan
--- RLoosigian@aol.com wrote:
> Reference the Moss Motors, British Motoring
> Magazine, Winter 2000, Volume 21,
> Number 4, which was just received. On page 8 is the
> photo of a green BJ8 that
> appears to have Sprite bumperettes on the front. I
> am wondering whether
> anyone knows who the owner of the car is, or whether
> the owner is on the
> list. I would like more info on how they were
> mounted, where the brackets
> came from, etc. I know that there are several
> sources for mounting brackets
> for the rear but have never seen front brackets
> advertised.
>
> Thanks
> Ralph Loosigian
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 18:13:31 -0800 (PST)
Subject: RE: The Cape
By the way who exactly is "butt-head"???
Alan
--- Michael Salter <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
wrote:
> Oh ye of little faith.
>
> The first pic below is one of the ones that I took
> in Warwick a couple
> of weeks back
>
> The second pic below is of Donald standing in front
> of The Cape Works.
>
> Looks like the right place to me!
>
> Many thanks to Ward and Scott for your input.
>
> http://members.rogers.com/magicare/images/view3.jpg
>
>
http://members.rogers.com/magicare/images/oldcape.jpg
>
>
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com/
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From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 18:36:14 -0800
Subject: Re: after market points and condenser - the fix
----- Original Message -----
From: <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Dallas Congleton"
<dcong996@earthlink.net>
Sent: Monday, November 25, 2002 3:26 PM
Subject: Re: after market points and condenser - the fix
> Listers,
>
> The problem was not the Pertronix unit. The story is that my wife and I,
and
> other another couple in a '65 356 Porche decided to take a coastal drive
up to
> Santa Barbara from Los Angeles. All was well, the car running fine and the
sun
> was shining. Then I noticed a slight low speed stumble from the Healey.
We
> continued to drive until I thought I'd take a look under the hood. Every
seemed
> OK, but I decided to look under the distributor cap. I noticed some fine
brass
> filings from the rotor hitting the brass terminals on the cap and I made
the
> discision to change the rotor. The car started and we continued the
drive.
> The stumble continued. As we drive, the engine miss got worse and it was
> decided to return to L.A. Well, on the southbound I-5 to I-405
interchange (at
> about 70 MPH) I lost power. The engine died. I pulled over, tried to start
the
> car, it turns over but would start. I checked for spark at the
coil...It's OK,
> I got fuel. I check for spark at the plug...No spark. At this point I'm
> thinking that the Pertronix unit failed, but my thinking wasn't clear. I
> changed the distributor cap...nope. I had towed it home.
> Today I called Pertronix, I explained the problem and the technician told
it
> wasn't the modual. He says,"If there is spark at the coil then electronic
> modual is signalling the coil to fire." It was. He toldme to check the
> timing. Was the rotor pointing to #1 at TDC on the compression stroke?
Yes it
> was. I was stumped. I checked the continuity from the coil wire to the
> dizzy ..It was OK. I checked from the #1 terminal in the cap to the end of
the
> spark plug wire terminal the type that screws onto the wire, ...No
continuity!
> Bad wire? I check another wire...Nothing!! I unsrewed the spark plug
terminal
> and checked just the wire...It's OK. I checked the terminal itself and NO
> CONTINUITY!! Checked another, same results! Bad terminals? WRONG. I
know, I
> know, you already know that there is a resister in the terminal and
continuity
> can't be tested with an ohm meter. Well I didn't know that. So I changed
the
> wires and knowing that all is going be fine, I hit the starter button and
> NOTHING. It spins but doesn't start. About this time my neighbor from
across
> the street comes over to see why I'm cussing at the car. He's a retired
> electrical engineer. I explain what I've done and he listens... he tells
me
> about the resistor in the terminals and tells me I probably can't measure
the
> continuity with my multimeter because it is probably 20mega ohms and my
meter
> only goes to 2M Ohms. I was skeptical, but I was ready to listen. He says
put
> the car back the way it was when it ran. So I decided put the old rotor
back
> in first and then the distributor cap. So I changed the rotor and tried
it, and
> it started!! The replacement Lucas rotor was bad. Now the original
"stumble"
> may still be there. I can't tell and now I'm wondering if it was my over
active
> imagination. Anyway, I learned a lot and credit my neighbor with the save.
>
> --
> Mark
> 59 BT7
> Carson, CA
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 21:59:28 EST
Subject: Re: The Cape
<< By the way who exactly is "butt-head"??? >>
Butthead would be Beavis's best friend.
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 22:42:41 -0600
Subject: 3.54 Rearend Gearsets
This is not an advertisement just an excited lister about a great
modification.
Mike can now be reached at mlempert@bellsouth.net
Mark L.
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 20:46:00 -0800 (PST)
Subject: RE: The Cape
I'd aver that you'd probably even swap your BN3/1
(without blinking) for the Sebring car!
Cheers,
Alan
--- "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
wrote:
> G'day Mike
>
> I have seen the second pic before with DMH standing
> next to the Sebring car, but did you notice that
> behind and with its nose facing the wall is my
> BN3/1?
>
> Regards
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Sydney Australia
>
> 1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
> 1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Michael Salter
> [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2002 5:03 AM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: RE: The Cape
>
>
> Oh ye of little faith.
>
> The first pic below is one of the ones that I took
> in Warwick a couple
> of weeks back
>
> The second pic below is of Donald standing in front
> of The Cape Works.
>
> Looks like the right place to me!
>
> Many thanks to Ward and Scott for your input.
>
> http://members.rogers.com/magicare/images/view3.jpg
>
>
http://members.rogers.com/magicare/images/oldcape.jpg
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From Rick Swain <grain at auracom.com>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 08:28:47 -0400
Subject: Re: BJ8 front bumperette
I know that there are several sources for mounting brackets
for the rear but have never seen front brackets advertised.
Unlike Ralph, I have not seen sources for mounting brackets for the rear.
I'm considering mounting bumperettes at the rear of my BN4 and am also
interested in mounting driving lights in the front w/o a bumper as on some
of the rally cars.
I suppose I could organize something myself but if ready-made brackets,
which match the look of the rally cars, are available, it might save me some
work. Can anyone point me in the right direction?
Thanks
Rick Swain
'59 BN4
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From Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 23:37:57 +1100
Subject: Update to Healey site
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From "Jim Hill" <jrhill at chorus.net>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 07:03:43 -0600
Subject: 100 M issue
> . . . the louvered-bonnet notation is the only recorded item
> in anyone's production records. It doesn't necessarily
> indicate that a car is a 100M
> . . . if the record [with the louvered-bonnet notation] is
> not there, then the car shouldn't, in theory, be called a 100M.
It was my understanding that the first cars sold as100M models were
assembled at Austin as standard cars and sent to the DHMC at Warwick for
modification. As part of the work done at the DHMC, the bonnets were sent
back to body-maker Jensen to be louvered. There are apparently no factory
records of which (or how many)100M's were produced in this way.
Later on, arrangements were made to have the louvering done before Jensen
shipped the car bodies to Austin. These later cars are the 640 that have the
louvered-bonnet notation on the Job Production Card. But the earlier cars
would still be 100M's, although proving that a particular car belongs to
this group would be rather more difficult.
Jim Hill
Madison WI
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 08:30:09 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ8 front bumperette
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick Swain" <grain@auracom.com>
To: <RLoosigian@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2002 7:28 AM
Subject: Re: BJ8 front bumperette
> on 11/25/02 4:21 PM, RLoosigian@aol.com at RLoosigian@aol.com wrote:
>
> I know that there are several sources for mounting brackets
> for the rear but have never seen front brackets advertised.
>
>
> Unlike Ralph, I have not seen sources for mounting brackets for the rear.
> I'm considering mounting bumperettes at the rear of my BN4 and am also
> interested in mounting driving lights in the front w/o a bumper as on some
> of the rally cars.
>
> I suppose I could organize something myself but if ready-made brackets,
> which match the look of the rally cars, are available, it might save me
some
> work. Can anyone point me in the right direction?
>
> Thanks
>
> Rick Swain
> '59 BN4
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From DMMax at aol.com
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 08:31:40 EST
Subject: Re: after market points and condenser - the fix
<< I can't tell and now I'm wondering if it was my over active
imagination. >>
Mark, This is a classic Healey story. I've learned so much about my car
fixing the wrong thing. Occasionaly I get it right.........
"........ I remember back in '94 ........... "
David M & Mrs. Peel
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 10:03:02 -0500
Subject: Re: 3.54 Rearend Gearsets
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7 Tri-carb
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From "John Peak" <johnepeak at hotmail.com>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 07:57:28 -0800
Subject: OpenRoads Video
John
_________________________________________________________________
The new MSN 8: smart spam protection and 2 months FREE*
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail
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From BlkBT7 at aol.com
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 11:10:28 -0500
Subject: Re: OpenRoads Video
Got mine yesterday also, the producers should have viewed the
video from the St. Louis Conclave before making one, there is
no comparison. Tahoe was great but video is lacking.
Bob
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From Sid_Shadle at dot.ca.gov
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 08:49:37 -0800
Subject: test
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 12:21:18 EST
Subject: Re: BJ8 front bumperette
<< Can anyone point me in the right direction?
Thanks
Rick Swain >>
I got mine from Cape International. They can be seen installed at:
http://members.aol.com/wilko/Overriders.html
and lamps at:
http://members.aol.com/wilko/lamps.html
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From Douglas W Flagg <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 12:13:55 -0500
Subject: Re:Hey Scott
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
Sign Up for Juno Platinum Internet Access Today
Visit www.juno.com
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from me home. This was about 1330 on Tuesday, November 19. She was
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 09:21:28 -0800
Subject: Healey sighting
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 12:38:46 EST
Subject: Re: 100 M issue
<< It was my understanding that the first cars sold as100M models were
assembled at Austin as standard cars and sent to the DHMC at Warwick for
modification. As part of the work done at the DHMC, the bonnets were sent
back to body-maker Jensen to be louvered. There are apparently no factory
records of which (or how many)100M's were produced in this way.
Later on, arrangements were made to have the louvering done before Jensen
shipped the car bodies to Austin. These later cars are the 640 that have the
louvered-bonnet notation on the Job Production Card. But the earlier cars
would still be 100M's, although proving that a particular car belongs to
this group would be rather more difficult >>
Ah, but there you could be wrong in your understanding. Yes, you are quite
correct in the sequence of operations with regard to BN1s that were shipped
from the factory with the LeMans modifications (hood was taken off at Warwick
and sent back to Jensen's for louvering) and BN2s that were shipped from
factory with LeMans mods (the bodies were received at Longbridge with the
louvered bonnets already installed).
In fact, that is exactly the way we describe the process in our restoration
book.
But in whether the BN1s should properly be referred to as "100Ms" the
semantic thicket gets tangled. You see, I have never seen any original
printed references that use the term "100M" which were published before
October 1955 when the BN2s were introduced at the Earls Court London Motor
Show. If no one at the time of their modification referred to the BN1s
converted before October 1955 as 100Ms, then I argue it is incorrect for us
to do so now.
Unless someone can show a printed reference, from BMC (either dealer memos or
advertising literature) or from Donald Healey Motor Works, or from the
motoring press of that period, that uses the term "100M" to refer to the
factory-converted BN1s, which was published and dated before October 1955,
then it is not correct now refer to those models with that term. We know that
the BN2s with LeMans mods introduced at the Motor Show were referred to in
the literature as "100Ms"
But, before everyone gets huffy about how it doesn't matter, I would
generally agree, at least regarding value - If someone has a
factory/Warwick-converted BN1 and has the paperwork to prove that, then
they've got a car which is probably as desirable as a documented BN2 100M.
It's just that unless there's some documentation to prove that such cars were
referred to in period as 100Ms, then they can't be referred to as such now.
But I would be happy to see any documentation dated prior to October 1955
that uses the term "100M."
Cheers
Gary
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 14:42:10 EST
Subject: Re: 100 M issue
> But in whether the BN1s should properly be referred to as "100Ms" the
> semantic thicket gets tangled. You see, I have never seen any original
> printed references that use the term "100M" which were published before
> October 1955 when the BN2s were introduced at the Earls Court London Motor
> Show. If no one at the time of their modification referred to the BN1s
> converted before October 1955 as 100Ms, then I argue it is incorrect for us
>
> to do so now.
>
>
Absolutely--although early 3000's are commonly referred to as "Mark I's", as
though someone anticipated the introduction of the Mark II--but that is a
different story....
Best--Michael
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From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 14:51:41 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Vredestein Tire Healey Brochure
--- HealeyRic2@aol.com wrote: << While at my local tire dealer looking
for snow tires I noticed a Vredestein tire brochure entitled, "Special
tires for classic cars". Brochure has a red BJ8 on the cover. They
list a 185 x 15 for the Healey 3000 in their Sprint St model. --Rick
>>
=====
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
______________________________________________________________________
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
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From "DH" <donham1 at cox.net>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 15:12:09 -0600
Subject: OD Failure on 62BJ7
DH
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From "Roberta and Bob Johnson" <bandrj at earthlink.net>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 16:39:48 -0500
Subject: Re: Fw: BJ8 Erratic Tach
I would have guessed that all BJ8's would have had the same tach, but
apparently they don't. Because mine was so different from yours, that is why
I decided to warn people to look first. Suppose it is a neg/pos ground
issue? Do all BJ8's have a positive ground? Mine does.
I still appreciate your help on this.
Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Masucci" <david_m@radiantsoundworks.com>
To: "Roberta and Bob Johnson" <bandrj@earthlink.net>
Cc: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, November 25, 2002 5:42 PM
Subject: Re: Fw: BJ8 Erratic Tach
> Bob,
>
> That 56 ohm resistor was on the list, so that's a match. As to none of
> the other resistors being the same value, did you use my list, or the
> one from the Sunbeam article? The values ARE different for different
> versions of the tach. I ASSUME that all BJ8's use the same values, but
> no guarantee. Although the schematic seemed to be the same as the
> Sunbeams, many of the parts were of different values.
>
> I do agree that if you're not comfortable doing this kind of work, then
> don't do it. As stated, I offer only advice if I can.
>
> Regards,
> Dave Masucci
>
>
>
> Roberta and Bob Johnson wrote:
>
> >To anyone thinking about rebuilding their own tach, think about it for a
> >while, unless you actually DO know what you are doing. I thought it would
be
> >find one like this one and replace it. It is more complex than that.
Reading
> >resistors is no big deal. Capacitors might not be. Printed ones are OK,
> >however I found one disc type that was color coded. Did a Goole search on
> >capacitor color codes. Pretty much the same as resistors, but.... this
> >particular capacitor has two (not 3, or 5, or 6 marks. And they wrap
around
> >the cap. You read the numbers clockwise it says in one place. Both sides
are
> >the same!! So is it br, or (brown, orange) from one side or orande brown
> >(clockwise on the other side?) And what about a multiplier? Oh, along the
> >edge are three marks, good, br,or,br. Now it is 130 uf. No wait, in
another
> >place it says read center as first, right as second color band, and left
as
> >third. Hmmm, thats 310 uf. Who do I beleive? My tach has a pink piece
that
> >looks like a capacitor but is marked 56 ohm 5%. Must be a resistor?
> >
> >So if you are detirmined to do it yourself, open you tach per David
> >Masucci's instructions and examine all of the parts. It turned out that
in
> >David's parts list that my particular tach had only one of the resistors
> >that was listed. So then go to this website:
> >http://webhome.idirect.com/~jadams/electronics/resistor_codes.htm to find
> >out exactly what resisitors you need.
> >http://www.pmel.org/HandBook/HBpage26.htm for capacitors, then order the
> >parts. David's replacements for the transistors are correct (even though
the
> >Mouser website says that they are a replacement for something else.) Oh
joy,
> >Mouser only carries a 130 uf capacitor, therefore it can't be 310uf
(Ihope.)
> >
> >Bob Johnson
> >BJ8
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >>David,
> >>
> >>Thanks again for posting the rebuild instructions for the tach. I think
> >>
> >>
> >that
> >
> >
> >>there may be a slight problem in the parts list. However, since I
haven't
> >>taken the tach out since I received my parts from Mouser I can't be
sure,
> >>but part no. 292-3.0K is a very tiny square, flat "chip" resistor with
no
> >>pigtails. All of the others are the old style barrel shaped resistors.
Is
> >>this right? (I'm posting this now before anyone else might order parts.)
> >>
> >>Bob Johnson
> >>BJ8
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>>Hi All,
> >>>
> >>>A NUMBER of months ago, I sent out a notice to the list about my
rebuild
> >>>
> >>>
> >>for
> >>
> >>
> >>>the BJ8 Electronic tach.
> >>>
> >>>
> >><snip>
> >>
> >>
> >>>The document is in the form of a PDF file. But it came out kinda
> >>>
> >>>
> >>big....it's
> >>
> >>
> >>>about 500K. You can download it from my site...the link is below. If
> >>>
> >>>
> >that
> >
> >
> >>>doesn't work for you, I can snail mail a printout of this. Let me know
> >>>
> >>>
> >if
> >
> >
> >>>you need that. Some people did at the time, but please let me know
> >>>
> >>>
> >again.
> >
> >
> >>>Anyway...here it is. Good luck, and I'm sorry for the delay.
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From "Healey, Graham" <Graham.Healey at lse.com.au>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2002 08:42:01 +1100
Subject: RE: OD Failure on 62BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: DH [mailto:donham1@cox.net]
Sent: Wednesday, 27 November 2002 8:12 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: OD Failure on 62BJ7
Listers, thanks to all who responded to subject problem. Keith Turk drove
down
Mon. and found the problem to be the OD relay switch{new with only 900 miles
on it}. Called several vendors and found that all have none in stock. All on
back order.Installed old switch that had been on car when I bought it in '75
till '97 when restoration begin and it works fine. Quality that we get on
some
parts is really liking.
DH
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From Grglmn at cs.com
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 17:13:01 EST
Subject: Re: OD Failure on 62BJ7
> Quality that we get on some parts is really liking.
>
> DH
Yes you must be careful, I had a repro light switch on my BN1, it was always
"iffy" and gave up the ghost about midnight in the middle of Iowa coming back
from the vintage races at Road America.
A used Lucas item ($5.00) has served (yeoman's service as they say, whatever
that means) for a couple years since, while the $30 repo lasted about a
month. I am not at all blasting suppliers as was done quite adequately a
sort while ago on an earlier thread, just noting that sometimes the original
stuff is better, and sometimes the old adage "if it ain't broke.." Etc.
applies.
Greg Lemon
54 BN1 (rare non M version)
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From Tracy Drummond <tracyd at garlic.com>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 14:17:49 -0800
Subject: OD solonoid lever adjustment
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From "Casarona, Paul" <pcasarona at auburnschools.org>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 16:32:02 -0600
Subject: Transmission Parts Needed
Thanks,
Paul Casarona
1958 BN6 "Lobelia"
Auburn, AL
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From "Scott H." <austrheamgafun at arczip.com>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 18:38:57 -0500
Subject: Potential Brake Failure Warning
This is a warning to anyone who may possibly have the same type of hydraulic
brake light switch on their car as I "had" on mine. I don't recall right off
hand which of the vendors I purchased this switch from, nor does the sensor
have a manufacturer's name on it, but I will eventually figure out who the
unique mold symbol belongs to. I am only interested in warning them of the
potential safety problem. It could save a life.
I am in the process of restoring an Austin Healey. I have purchased a lot of
very good quality new components for this car, but unfortunately one of them
appears to be defective. The other day while bleeding my brake system, I was
pressing on the brake pedal while my son was at the bleed screw to allow the
air to be forced out of the new brake lines. During the process of pumping
the brake pedal, I was able to build up fluid pressure, but then all of a
sudden the pedal went to the floor and I immediately heard fluid pouring onto
my garage floor. After tracing the origins of the leak, I found brake fluid
dribbling from the brand new brake light switch that I had installed. From
the body of the unit, not the threaded portion. Fortunately my car is sitting
in the garage on jack stands, but if I were braking for, God knows who or
what, I might not be sitting here typing this letter.
Anyway, you can view the switch on the web site I have constructed for this
purpose (see below). Please take a look at the images and make sure you don't
have the same switch on your car. If so, the rest is up to you. Since these
switches are used for many different models, please feel free to FWD this
message to anyone else who may benefit. Meanwhile, if anyone knows of a
well-known quality brake switch that I could buy, please let me know.
Thanks,
Scott Helms
http://users.arczip.com/zntech/switch.html
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 07:23:31 -0500
Subject: looking for--
Thanks,
Charley Braum
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From "Robert Wiley" <wileyrob at pacifier.com>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 16:27:28 -0800
Subject: Re: OD solonoid lever adjustment
----------
>From: Tracy Drummond <tracyd@garlic.com>
>To: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: OD solonoid lever adjustment
>Date: Tue, Nov 26, 2002, 2:17 PM
>
> When I adjust the OD solenoid lever. The 3/16 in hole should line up
> with the hole in OD when solenoid is engaged right?
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 17:58:07 -0500
Subject: Re: 100 M issue
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havleock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Awgertoo@aol.com
To: Editorgary@aol.com ; jrhill@chorus.net ; healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2002 2:42 PM
Subject: Re: 100 M issue
In a message dated 11/26/02 12:48:19 PM Eastern Standard Time,
Editorgary@aol.com writes:
> But in whether the BN1s should properly be referred to as "100Ms" the
> semantic thicket gets tangled. You see, I have never seen any original
> printed references that use the term "100M" which were published before
> October 1955 when the BN2s were introduced at the Earls Court London Motor
> Show. If no one at the time of their modification referred to the BN1s
> converted before October 1955 as 100Ms, then I argue it is incorrect for
us
>
> to do so now.
>
>
Absolutely--although early 3000's are commonly referred to as "Mark I's", as
though someone anticipated the introduction of the Mark II--but that is a
different story....
Best--Michael
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 19:54:12 EST
Subject: Re: Potential Brake Failure Warning
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
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From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 20:00:46 EST
Subject: Re: 100 M issue
Rick
In a message dated 11/26/02 8:54:17 PM, byers@cconnect.net writes:
<<And there were no Phase 1 BJ8s until there were Phase 2s.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havleock, NC USA>>
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 20:25:10 -0500
Subject: RE: Potential Brake Failure Warning
The switch that you have photographed is NOT a brake light switch. It is
an oil pressure switch used in Triumph TR6's, Chevy Vegas and some other
vehicles. It was never designed to withstand the high pressures that it
would be subjected to in a braking system and should never be used as a
brake light switch.
The triumph number for the switch you have illustrated is 159784. It is
made by AC Delco but I don't remember the Delco number of hand.
I have never seen a brake light switch which has 3 terminals the one you
require has 2 terminals and is part number 2A5304.
The person who sold you that switch for use as a brake light switch is
the one at fault, not the manufacturer whom, I would contend, is
blameless in this situation.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Scott H.
Sent: 26-Nov-02 6:39 PM
To: Healeys@autox.team.net
Cc: BritishCars@autox.team.net; MGs@autox.team.net;
Triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Potential Brake Failure Warning
Hello everyone,
This is a warning to anyone who may possibly have the same type of
hydraulic
brake light switch on their car as I "had" on mine. I don't recall
right off
hand which of the vendors I purchased this switch from, nor does the
sensor
have a manufacturer's name on it, but I will eventually figure out who
the
unique mold symbol belongs to. I am only interested in warning them of
the
potential safety problem. It could save a life.
I am in the process of restoring an Austin Healey. I have purchased a
lot of
very good quality new components for this car, but unfortunately one of
them
appears to be defective. The other day while bleeding my brake system,
I was
pressing on the brake pedal while my son was at the bleed screw to allow
the
air to be forced out of the new brake lines. During the process of
pumping
the brake pedal, I was able to build up fluid pressure, but then all of
a
sudden the pedal went to the floor and I immediately heard fluid pouring
onto
my garage floor. After tracing the origins of the leak, I found brake
fluid
dribbling from the brand new brake light switch that I had installed.
>From
the body of the unit, not the threaded portion. Fortunately my car is
sitting
in the garage on jack stands, but if I were braking for, God knows who
or
what, I might not be sitting here typing this letter.
Anyway, you can view the switch on the web site I have constructed for
this
purpose (see below). Please take a look at the images and make sure you
don't
have the same switch on your car. If so, the rest is up to you. Since
these
switches are used for many different models, please feel free to FWD
this
message to anyone else who may benefit. Meanwhile, if anyone knows of a
well-known quality brake switch that I could buy, please let me know.
Thanks,
Scott Helms
http://users.arczip.com/zntech/switch.html
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 17:28:29 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: BJ8 front bumperette
both dennis welch and Steve Norton in the UK make rear
bumperette rally kits:
www.bighealey.co.uk (Dennis Welch)
www.cape-international.com (Steve Norton)
In general, Steve Norton at Cape is a great guy, but
you may or may not have to work with his bumperette
kit - I think a couple listers mentioned there were
some fitting problems (not long enough to mount).
Knowing Steve, however, if you tell this to him on the
phone when ordering, he will make sure it fits
correctly before shipping it.
Dennis Welch - don't know anything about their
bumperette kit.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Rick Swain <grain@auracom.com> wrote:
> on 11/25/02 4:21 PM, RLoosigian@aol.com at
> RLoosigian@aol.com wrote:
>
> I know that there are several sources for mounting
> brackets
> for the rear but have never seen front brackets
> advertised.
>
>
> Unlike Ralph, I have not seen sources for mounting
> brackets for the rear.
> I'm considering mounting bumperettes at the rear of
> my BN4 and am also
> interested in mounting driving lights in the front
> w/o a bumper as on some
> of the rally cars.
>
> I suppose I could organize something myself but if
> ready-made brackets,
> which match the look of the rally cars, are
> available, it might save me some
> work. Can anyone point me in the right direction?
>
> Thanks
>
> Rick Swain
> '59 BN4
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 20:32:28 -0500
Subject: RE: 100 M issue
I'm quite sure that someone on the list will remember that BMC promoted
the Phase 1 BJ8 as a temporary measure "until we come up with an
improved version". WWNN.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Steve Byers
Sent: 26-Nov-02 5:58 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: 100 M issue
And there were no Phase 1 BJ8s until there were Phase 2s.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havleock, NC USA
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 20:34:42 -0500
Subject: Re: Transmission Parts Needed
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Casarona, Paul" <pcasarona@auburnschools.org>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2002 5:32 PM
Subject: Transmission Parts Needed
> Hi All,
> Can anyone help me out with locating good useable parts for my
> transmission rebuild? I need specifically a first gear lay gear, layshaft
> and reverse gear. Alternatively, I would consider purchasing an entire
box,
> but must contain good useable parts.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Paul Casarona
> 1958 BN6 "Lobelia"
> Auburn, AL
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From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 21:04:49 -0500 (EST)
Subject: 1951 Healey Tickford Silverstone
In this standard Tickford form, MGP 943 gave good service to various
owners on the UK mainland before becoming an Irish resident in 1969/70,
since when it would appear to have been bodily converted into an open
Silverstone sports with GRP bodywork. Indeed, the current V5 from our
own DVLC describes the car as being a `Healey Silverstone' under Make
and `2-Axle-Rigid Body Convertible' for Model/Type. The original
Healey of Warwick, England, chassis plaque in brass confirms both
chassis and engine numbers and can be inspected with the V5 and various
correspondence in the auctioneers Documents Office at Buxton.
Although as presented, clearly there is much to do in the workshop
before the car can be returned to the road in its present form, the
project could form the basis for an authentic replication. Fitted with
faithfully reproduced bodywork in aluminum, it would almost certainly
be recognized as a Silverstone-rep by the Association of Healey Owners
and the later AHC, and could therefore be run in all manner of events
in the appropriate class for a 1951 Healey."
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Interesting. If you visit H&H web site, there is a picture along with
the above description.
Enjoy!! --Scott Morris
=====
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
______________________________________________________________________
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 21:20:21 EST
Subject: Re: 100 M issue
<< And there were no Phase 1 BJ8s until there were Phase 2s. >>
Actually, that's another semantic puzzle. I don't think you can find that
term anywhere in any of the factory literature. I believe it was invented
later by enthusiasts who needed to distinguish between the two stages of the
BJ8 evolution. So you could just as easily use the term phase 1 as well as
phase 2, since both terms only began to be used after the production run was
over.
Cheers
Gary
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From Neil McDonald <nimcdonald at shaw.ca>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 18:29:19 -0800
Subject: Re: OD solonoid lever adjustment
Read this fine article for more background to my comment:
http://www.team.net/www/healey/tech/big_hly/od/delborder_od.html
Neil
BN6
Vancouver
Canada
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tracy Drummond" <tracyd@garlic.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2002 2:17 PM
Subject: OD solonoid lever adjustment
> When I adjust the OD solenoid lever. The 3/16 in hole should line up
> with the hole in OD when solenoid is engaged right?
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From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 21:20:20 -0600
Subject: heat shield material sought
Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
Sturgeon Bay, WI.
63 BJ-7
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2002 00:43:56 -0500
Subject: Re: heat shield material sought
I used some ceramic like insulation material. More than one company makes
the product. 1/4 inch thick and appearance very much like the orig stuff.
Found it at a boiler supply place. 2 x 3 ft sheet for about $16 and enough
material to make all the engine bay pieces if you plan right. Cuts fine
with a butcher knife.
However, it is quite brittle and am told that it sort of disentegrates if
wetted. Also, was a bit dingy so painted it with 2-3 coats of spray white.
Hope this helps
Keith Pennell
> Does anybody know where you can get some original sytle heat shield
material in
> bulk??? I really don't want to sand and clean up the old asbestos. I
would
> like to find some kind of cheap alternative that looks original without
> spending and arm and a leg.
> Thanks in advance
>
> Randy Dickson
> Healey Archaeologist
> Sturgeon Bay, WI.
> 63 BJ-7
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 22:28:23 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: heat shield material sought
The great thing is alot of this stuff is thin enough
you can probably put it underneath the asbestos sheets
if you are really anal about original appearance...
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Keith Pennell <pennell@whro.net> wrote:
> Randy,
>
> I used some ceramic like insulation material. More
> than one company makes
> the product. 1/4 inch thick and appearance very
> much like the orig stuff.
> Found it at a boiler supply place. 2 x 3 ft sheet
> for about $16 and enough
> material to make all the engine bay pieces if you
> plan right. Cuts fine
> with a butcher knife.
>
> However, it is quite brittle and am told that it
> sort of disentegrates if
> wetted. Also, was a bit dingy so painted it with
> 2-3 coats of spray white.
>
> Hope this helps
> Keith Pennell
>
> > Does anybody know where you can get some original
> sytle heat shield
> material in
> > bulk??? I really don't want to sand and clean up
> the old asbestos. I
> would
> > like to find some kind of cheap alternative that
> looks original without
> > spending and arm and a leg.
> > Thanks in advance
> >
> > Randy Dickson
> > Healey Archaeologist
> > Sturgeon Bay, WI.
> > 63 BJ-7
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2002 06:59:01 -0500
Subject: Fw: 100 M issue
Steve
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael Salter
To: 'Steve Byers' ; healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2002 8:32 PM
Subject: RE: 100 M issue
Hi Steve,
I'm quite sure that someone on the list will remember that BMC promoted
the Phase 1 BJ8 as a temporary measure "until we come up with an
improved version". WWNN.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Steve Byers
Sent: 26-Nov-02 5:58 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: 100 M issue
And there were no Phase 1 BJ8s until there were Phase 2s.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havleock, NC USA
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2002 08:23:35 -0500
Subject: Re: Fw: 100 M issue
> Is that true? Did they call it a Phase 1 before they came out with the
> Phase 2?
Pretty sure they didn't The older I get, the less I am totally sure of
anything, but I sold BMC cars the during the summer of '66, and do not recall
ever hearing the terms "phase 1" or "phase 2." Matter of fact, the first
time I heard "phase 2" was this year, from an enthusiast.
Until that moment, I never knew that the the quick and easy handle for my
[former] BJ8 was "phase 1." Certainly easier to say than "early model, with
the single bullet taillights."
Best,
--
John Miller, N4VU
The young lady had an unusual list,
Linked in part to a structural weakness.
She set no preconditions.
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From "Lawrence Mercier" <lmercibn6 at mindspring.com>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2002 08:37:37 -0500
Subject: Re: heat shield material sought
----- Original Message -----
From: <dicksonr@uwm.edu>
To: "AH102" <bluechipracing@snet.net>
Cc: "Casarona, Paul" <pcasarona@auburnschools.org>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2002 10:20 PM
Subject: heat shield material sought
> Does anybody know where you can get some original sytle heat shield
material in
> bulk??? I really don't want to sand and clean up the old asbestos. I
would
> like to find some kind of cheap alternative that looks original without
> spending and arm and a leg.
> Thanks in advance
>
> Randy Dickson
> Healey Archaeologist
> Sturgeon Bay, WI.
> 63 BJ-7
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2002 11:00:49 -0500
Subject: Healey BN1, BN2 grill
Jim
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From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2002 11:36:21 -0500
Subject: Mr Finespanner
Alain Giguhre
8339 St-Gerard
Montreal (Quibec)
H2P 2E1
Canada
Alain Giguhre
(514) 385-1186
Cel. 914-2419
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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2002 10:15:49 -0800
Subject: AH owner search
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From ZManDino at aol.com
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2002 13:17:21 EST
Subject: RE: heat shield material
Alex. 1960 BN7
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From francois wildi <fwildi at yahoo.com>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2002 11:12:02 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Transmission cover carpet Q's (centershift)
Can you help me?
Thanks in advance
Francois
__________________________________________________
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From "Randy Blum" <RBlum at sandiego.gov>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2002 11:53:45 -0800
Subject: AH-100 for sale
Randy Blum
rblum@sandiego.gov
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From "Sid Bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
From: Lawrence Mercier <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <dicksonr@uwm.edu>; AH102 <bluechipracing@snet.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2002 12:46:39 -0700
Subject: Re: heat shield material sought
> Randy...this stuff worked great for me.
> The product is HARTIBACKER, made by James Hardie. Building Products. It
can
> be found in the ceramic tile section at The Home Depot. It's made to be
used
> as an underlayment for ceramic tile, vinyl and other flooring. The cost is
> $8.51 + tax and is sold in 34 x 54 sheets, <" thick, and it's a perfect
> replacement for asbestos.
> A bit of advice here. In order to cut it and drill holes for the bolts
you'
> ll need a carbide blade and drill bit. This stuff is cement based and
really
> tough on regular saw blades and drill bits. Also, the material is rigid
but
> somewhat brittle, so handle it carefully and you'll be pleased with the
> results.
> Regards,
> Larry Mercier
> BN 6
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <dicksonr@uwm.edu>
> To: "AH102" <bluechipracing@snet.net>
> Cc: "Casarona, Paul" <pcasarona@auburnschools.org>;
<healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2002 10:20 PM
> Subject: heat shield material sought
>
>
> > Does anybody know where you can get some original sytle heat shield
> material in
> > bulk??? I really don't want to sand and clean up the old asbestos. I
> would
> > like to find some kind of cheap alternative that looks original without
> > spending and arm and a leg.
> > Thanks in advance
> >
> > Randy Dickson
> > Healey Archaeologist
> > Sturgeon Bay, WI.
> > 63 BJ-7
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From Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: Lawrence Mercier <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <dicksonr@uwm.edu>; AH102 <bluechipracing@snet.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2002 15:24:14 -0500
Subject: sprite drive shaft
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: Lawrence Mercier <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <dicksonr@uwm.edu>; AH102 <bluechipracing@snet.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2002 15:53:50 EST
Subject: Re: AH-100 for sale
However, based on your description, sight unseen I would be worried about the
following issues. With the car at least partically disassembled, are all the
parts really there? Hard to know what may have gone missing, or might before
the car is received by the new buyer.
That comment "rust in the usual places" may mean the car requires just a
little metal work in the doglegs and maybe some holes in the lower fenders to
be filled, or it may mean that the entire rocker panel/dogleg area has
disappeared, and must be reconstructed, patching will be required on all
fenders, and the car has no structure left in the lower boot area.
So, hard to say what it might be worth from your description, but if I
certainly would recommend to a prospective buyer that he see it in person, p
referably with his body man standing next to him. Depending on the needed
body work, it could be a pile of parts worth a few thousand dollars, or all
of the $11,000 in our estimate.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
Editor, British Car Magazine
In a message dated 11/27/02 12:02:51 PM, RBlum@sandiego.gov writes:
<< Paint, chrome, interior and windshield are removed. Engine is rebuilt
and has been running recently. Transmission works. Seats are rough, but the
frames are intact. The guages are intact and in good shape. New wiring
harness. Bumpers are there but need rechroming. Rust in the usual
places--floors, sills, rockers, lower doors, doglegs, and a few outriggers. I
have a lot of the replacement metal panels already. Body panels are a bit
rippled but can be repaired. >>
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From "DH" <donham1 at cox.net>
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2002 13:44:57 -0600
Subject: FW: FW: This is Awesome!!!
Happy Thanksgiving to you all. GTB, Sr.
-----Original Message-----
From: bob butler [mailto:rbutler1945@yahoo.com]
Sent: Wednesday, November 27, 2002 11:32 AM
To: Skip Nipper; NSG; PAUL CONDO; Karen Reich; AL SANSOMM; SCOTTVANDEVENDER;
Steve Vandevender; Mark bennett; BILL BUTLER; Wendi Bolton; SAM BOWEN; Brice
condo; carolwyatt707@hotmail.com; Cindy Clark; Steve Rori Clark; KEITH
CONRAD; d.hornbuckle@roadway.com; deepsix@santarosabeach.net; Rodney Jones;
Luke wyatt
Subject: Fwd: FW: This is Awesome!!!
Subject: This is Awesome!!!
Can you answer this riddle?
Here is a pretty neat little thing from Paul Harvey. See if you can
guess the riddle at the end.
Paul Harvey Writes:
We tried so hard to make things better for our kids that we made them
worse. For my grandchildren, I'd like better.
I'd really like for them to know about hand me down clothes and homemade
ice cream and leftover meat loaf sandwiches. I really would.
I hope you learn humility by being humiliated, and that you learn
honesty by being cheated.
I hope you learn to make your own bed and mow the lawn and wash the car.
And I really hope nobody gives you a brand new car when you are sixteen.
It will be good if at least one time you can see puppies born and your
old dog put to sleep.
I hope you get a black eye fighting for something you believe in.
I hope you have to share a bedroom with your younger brother/sister. And
it's all right if you have to draw a line down the middle of the room,but
when he wants to crawl under the covers with you because he's scared, I hope
you let him.
When you want to see a movie and your little brother/sister wants to tag
along, I hope you'll let him/her.
I hope you have to walk uphill to school with your friends and that you
live in a town where you can do it safely.
On rainy days when you have to catch a ride, I hope you don't ask your
driver to drop you two blocks away so you won't be seen riding with someone
as uncool as your Mom.
If you want a slingshot, I hope your Dad teaches you how to make one
instead of buying one.
I hope you learn to dig in the dirt and read books.
When you learn to use computers, I hope you also learn to add and
subtract in your head.
I hope you get teased by your friends when you have your first crush on
a boy\girl, and when you talk back to your mother that you learn what ivory
soap tastes like.
May you skin your knee climbing a mountain, burn your hand on a stove
and stick your tongue on a frozen flagpole.
I don't care if you try a beer once, but I hope you don't like it. And
if a friend offers you dope or a joint, I hope you realize he is not your
friend.
I sure hope you make time to sit on a porch with your Grandma/Grandpa
and go fishing with your Uncle.
May you feel sorrow at a funeral and joy during the holidays.
I hope your mother punishes you when you throw a baseball through your
neighbor's window and that she hugs you and kisses you at Hannukah/Christmas
time when you give her a plaster mold of your hand.
These things I wish for you - tough times and disappointment, hard work
and happiness. To me, it's the only way to appreciate life.
Written with a pen. Sealed with a kiss. I'm here for you. And if I die
before you do, I'll go to heaven and wait for you.
Send this to all of your friends. We secure our friends, not by
accepting favors, but by doing them.
Paul Harvey RIDDLE:
When asked this riddle, 80% of kindergarten kids got the answer,
compared to 17% of Stanford University seniors.
What is greater than God, More evil than the devil, The poor have it,
The rich need it, And if you eat it, you'll die?
Send this to 10 people and then press shift and you will get the answer.
P.S. You won't believe this, but this really does give you the
answer!!!!
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----
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Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now
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From linwoodrose <linwoodrose at hotmail.com>
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2002 21:37:58 +0000
Subject: NORESIZE
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2002 17:12:09 EST
Subject: Richard Gordon
Please contact me offlist--I am not sure that the email address that I have
for you is still valid.
Best--Michael
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From Doug Ingram <dougi at shaw.ca>
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2002 13:58:15 -0800
Subject: Re: sprite drive shaft
Getting it out is very easy - just remove the four bolts at the rear that
connect the prop shaft to the differential, lower that end below the rear
axle and pull it out. The gearbox end is a sliding spline joint with no
fasteners.
It's a little trickier putting it back in, as you must line up the gearbox
output shaft with the corresponding end of the prop shaft, which will flop
around causing great frustration. I use crumpled up pieces of newspaper to
form a crude cradle to support the prop shaft, and a bent piece of coat
hanger wire through the grease access hole in the tunnel for added control.
Easiest with a helper. Afterwards, use a longer piece of wire to fish out
the newspaper.
Good luck,
Doug Ingram
Victoria BC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steven Tjepkema" <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, November 27, 2002 12:24 PM
Subject: sprite drive shaft
> Hi everybody I need to know if ther are any trick to removing and
installing a drive shaft from my 68 sprite I want to chang out the
u-joints.And I can`t see anyway to disconnect it from the tranny or dose it
slip out to the rear with a slip joint at the tranny. And how do I line it
back up Thanks Steve 68sprite 58bn4
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2002 17:31:17 -0500
Subject: Hypothetical question
I bet this one will generate some discussion.
Suppose one saw a Healey for sale on eBay, and knew that the car had been
totalled about a year ago, but the description makes no mention of it. What
recommendations would you have for what should be done with that knowledge?
Let the comments begin......
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
Havelock, NC
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2002 17:41:27 EST
Subject: Happy Thanksgiving to all
Best--Michael Oritt
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From Trevor A Bentley <trevor at atomiccartoons.com>
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2002 14:45:19 -0800
Subject: totalled about a year ago
Trevor
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From TRICARB at aol.com
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2002 17:51:00 EST
Subject: Re: OD solonoid lever adjustment
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From "GM" <altec210 at yahoo.com>
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2002 18:05:53 -0500
Subject: Re: sprite drive shaft
GM
----- Original Message -----
> Hi everybody I need to know if ther are any trick to removing and
installing a drive shaft from my 68 sprite I want to chang out the
u-joints.And I can`t see anyway to disconnect it from the tranny or dose it
slip out to the rear with a slip joint at the tranny. And how do I line it
back up Thanks Steve 68sprite 58bn4
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From THOMAS FELTS <tfelts at prodigy.net>
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2002 15:32:22 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Hypothetical question
cheers
tom
--- Steve Byers <byers@cconnect.net> wrote:
> Hello, Healeyphiles -
>
> I bet this one will generate some discussion.
>
> Suppose one saw a Healey for sale on eBay, and knew
> that the car had been
> totalled about a year ago, but the description makes
> no mention of it. What
> recommendations would you have for what should be
> done with that knowledge?
>
> Let the comments begin......
>
>
.
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From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2002 18:24:05 -0600
Subject: Let the comments begin
I think that you have already taken a big step to fulfill your obligation with
that knowledge that the car had been totalled. Notifiying this list is the
first and biggest step, in my opinion.
Next, I would e-mail the owner and tell him that you have personal knowledge
that his car has been totaled and that you think he should make that known on
his "for sale" offer.
Don
BN7
"Life is not measured by the breaths we take but by the things that take our
breath away"
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From John Slade <edalsj at igs.net>
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2002 19:57:26 -0500
Subject: Re: Hypothetical question
Caveat Emptor
John Slade
Manotick, ON
-
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2002 20:33:26 -0500
Subject: Re: Hypothetical question
Speaking of which, I feel compelled to relate something I saw in the shops of
Precision Motors in Dallas back in around '65 or '66. It was a car they'd
pieced together from a Sunbeam Tiger that had been rear-ended, and an Alpine
that had been in a head-on.
There was a weld that went longitudinally across the whole car. Was the
Alpine a unit body, rather than panels on frame? If so,
Semper caveat-you-bet-your-sweet-ass-emptor!
I've never been able to look at a used car quite as innocently as before
seeing that.
Best,
--
John Miller, N4VU
"No, no, I don't mind being called the smartest man in the world. I just
wish
it wasn't this one."
-- Adrian Veidt/Ozymandias, WATCHMEN
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2002 20:33:39 -0500
Subject: Hypothetical question - responses so far
1. That might take care of the members of the Healeys list, but what about
the bidders who are not on the list? Would one be obligated to keep up with
the auction and notify all of the "high bidders" as the auction proceeds?
-------------------------------------------------
"Some might say buyer be ware, but if you know for a fact that this is an
issue, one might post it to the list or email the seller asking them to come
clean to any high bidder.
But that said, one must assume that any car bought should be checked out
first by a knowledgeable person."
2. E-mailing to the seller would alert them to the fact that the car was
totalled, if they don't know; and that someone else knows, if they do. It
would be interesting to see what happened after that with the auction. See
response #5 below.
_________________________
"Caveat Emptor."
3. "Buyer beware" would argue that no action needs to be taken at all.
Suppose some friends were intending to bid on the car. Would you not warn
them, if you knew the car was suspect?
---------------------------------------------------
"Not sharing the knowledge would make the knowledge-holder an accomplice
in a deceit or fraud. It is often not easy to "do the right thing" but
that is why it there are moral dilemnas. In the long run, sleeping will
be easier."
4. Who's to say that deceit or fraud is going on? Maybe the seller doesn't
know the car was totalled. Perhaps they bought it as "totally restored" six
months ago.
----------------------------------------------------
"tell us about the car and also tell anyone who might
be considering it to call you so you can pass that
info off line."
See response to #1 above.
-------------------------------
"I think that you have already taken a big step to fulfill your obligation
with that knowledge that the car had been totalled. Notifiying this list is
the first and biggest step, in my opinion.
Next, I would e-mail the owner and tell him that you have personal knowledge
that his car has been totaled and that you think he should make that known on
his "for sale" offer."
5. Certainly a possibility. What if the owner senses a threat to his ability
to sell this car, and that makes him reluctant to identify the VIN of the next
car he has for sale on eBay? We might save a potential buyer some grief on
this one, but in the process never know any "bad" history on the next three
cars this buyer has for sale.
____________________________
"Seems to me there are two possibilities here. Either the written off car
has been rebuilt, in which case any potential buyer should be made aware
so that the necessary inspections can be made, or the ID plates from the
written off car have been used for a restored or refinished vehicle
which for one reason or another could not be registered on its own
merits, which again warrants a thorough investigation by any potential
buyer."
6. See response #1.
7. What sources would any potential buyer of a car on eBay have to know the
history of a car before the auction is over, beyond what the seller tells
them?
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2002 17:42:46 -0800
Subject: Re: Hypothetical question
So, knowing or hearing that a car offered me had been totalled would
be a red flag, and I would want to know about it. But it would not
necessarily mean that the car was junk or was worth a whole lot less
than an untotalled car. Ideally I would like pictures of the car with
damage, and when it was under reconstruction, and a list of repairs.
I think that an honest seller would provide information without being
asked. Someone who discovered a situation Steve describes should make
what he knows known to others, and contact the seller. That way the
seller could not claim that he never knew the car had been totalled.
I think it would be risky to try to corner each bidder and email them
a "did you know ...." I suspect that eBay would say that the seller
takes full responsibility for accuracy and completeness of
description, so eBay wouldn't be interested in getting involved.
-Roland
BN1, BJ7
On Wed, 27 Nov 2002 17:31:17 -0500, "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>
wrote:
:: Suppose one saw a Healey for sale on eBay, and knew that the car had been
:: totalled about a year ago, but the description makes no mention of it. What
:: recommendations would you have for what should be done with that knowledge?
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2002 17:49:16 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Hypothetical question
You know as well as I do that there are a few stolen
healeys out there and it wouldn't be all that
difficult to switch VINs with a totalled car to try to
clean up the paper trail.
I think the thing to do is to have a list member go
there to pretend to be a buyer but then nonchalantly
check the right front shock tower, write down the
proper VIN number, and then check it against a
registry (or police info) to see if it is a stolen
vehicle. If it is stolen, then we know what to do...
There's so much personal attachment associated with
these vehicles that I'm sure the original owner would
love to have it back...
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Steve Byers <byers@cconnect.net> wrote:
> Hello, Healeyphiles -
>
> I bet this one will generate some discussion.
>
> Suppose one saw a Healey for sale on eBay, and knew
> that the car had been
> totalled about a year ago, but the description makes
> no mention of it. What
> recommendations would you have for what should be
> done with that knowledge?
>
> Let the comments begin......
>
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> Havelock, NC
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2002 19:00:34 -0800
Subject: Re: Hypothetical question - responses so far
Fair Disclosure: I'm not an expert on eBay and have barely used it, but
I have followed news items regarding the company closely since before the
company went public.
Having "said" that, I believe eBay has their own form of "internal
investigations."
I believe you can inform them--anonymously, if you like--that you believe
an item on auction is incompletely or inaccurately represented, then let
them handle it.
I'd wager the auction will be cancelled quickly--they have an enormous interest
in maintaining the integrity of their service.
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> "Post the info for all."
>
> 1. That might take care of the members of the Healeys list, but what about
> the bidders who are not on the list? Would one be obligated to keep up with
> the auction and notify all of the "high bidders" as the auction proceeds?
>
> -------------------------------------------------
> "Some might say buyer be ware, but if you know for a fact that this is an
> issue, one might post it to the list or email the seller asking them to come
> clean to any high bidder.
> But that said, one must assume that any car bought should be checked out
> first by a knowledgeable person."
>
> 2. E-mailing to the seller would alert them to the fact that the car was
> totalled, if they don't know; and that someone else knows, if they do. It
> would be interesting to see what happened after that with the auction. See
> response #5 below.
>
> _________________________
>
> "Caveat Emptor."
>
> 3. "Buyer beware" would argue that no action needs to be taken at all.
> Suppose some friends were intending to bid on the car. Would you not warn
> them, if you knew the car was suspect?
>
> ---------------------------------------------------
>
> "Not sharing the knowledge would make the knowledge-holder an accomplice
> in a deceit or fraud. It is often not easy to "do the right thing" but
> that is why it there are moral dilemnas. In the long run, sleeping will
> be easier."
>
> 4. Who's to say that deceit or fraud is going on? Maybe the seller doesn't
> know the car was totalled. Perhaps they bought it as "totally restored" six
> months ago.
> ----------------------------------------------------
>
> "tell us about the car and also tell anyone who might
> be considering it to call you so you can pass that
> info off line."
>
> See response to #1 above.
>
> -------------------------------
>
> "I think that you have already taken a big step to fulfill your obligation
> with that knowledge that the car had been totalled. Notifiying this list is
> the first and biggest step, in my opinion.
> Next, I would e-mail the owner and tell him that you have personal knowledge
> that his car has been totaled and that you think he should make that known on
> his "for sale" offer."
>
> 5. Certainly a possibility. What if the owner senses a threat to his ability
> to sell this car, and that makes him reluctant to identify the VIN of the next
> car he has for sale on eBay? We might save a potential buyer some grief on
> this one, but in the process never know any "bad" history on the next three
> cars this buyer has for sale.
>
> ____________________________
>
> "Seems to me there are two possibilities here. Either the written off car
> has been rebuilt, in which case any potential buyer should be made aware
> so that the necessary inspections can be made, or the ID plates from the
> written off car have been used for a restored or refinished vehicle
> which for one reason or another could not be registered on its own
> merits, which again warrants a thorough investigation by any potential
> buyer."
>
> 6. See response #1.
>
> 7. What sources would any potential buyer of a car on eBay have to know the
> history of a car before the auction is over, beyond what the seller tells
> them?
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2002 17:40:34 -0800
Subject: SU Supplier
Sorry to take awhile to get this done - just managed to make contact.
'Parts and service for SU carburettors'-------------------
Blain Hughes
Hughes Carburettors
32 Parkview Hill Crescent
Toronto, ON M4B 1P8
416-750-1367 'phone
416-750-8614 fax
blain.hughes@sympatico.ca (this is a brand new e-mail address)
Blain informs me that he has sold a lot of Grose-Jets in the last couple of
years, and had no problems with them. The manufacturer, on the other hand,
is a different story - inconsistent delivery seems to be the problem.
Blain has no Grose-Jets in stock at the moment, but has a large order
booked, doesn't know when he'll get them. He does have a good stock of SU
parts in hand - rebuild kits, etc. Contact him with your needs.
Incidentally, he is a Healey owner - gotta be a good guy, right!
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
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From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2002 22:08:02 -0600
Subject: OD lever line-up
>Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 14:17:49 -0800
>From: Tracy Drummond <tracyd@garlic.com>
>Subject: OD solonoid lever adjustment
>When I adjust the OD solenoid lever. The 3/16 in hole should line up
>with the hole in OD when solenoid is engaged right?
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2002 22:32:41 -0800
Subject: Re: Fw: 100 M issue
> Until that moment, I never knew that the the quick and easy handle for my
> [former] BJ8 was "phase 1." Certainly easier to say than "early model, with
> the single bullet taillights."
> Best,
> --
> John Miller, N4VU
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Thu, 28 Nov 2002 00:41:36 -0700
Subject: Re: heat shield material sought
Good hunting.
Bill Lawrence
dicksonr@uwm.edu wrote:
> Does anybody know where you can get some original sytle heat shield material
>in
> bulk??? I really don't want to sand and clean up the old asbestos. I would
> like to find some kind of cheap alternative that looks original without
> spending and arm and a leg.
> Thanks in advance
>
> Randy Dickson
> Healey Archaeologist
> Sturgeon Bay, WI.
> 63 BJ-7
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2002 23:59:12 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Fw: 100 M issue
I have one of these "phase II" BJ8s as well - Phase I
BJ8s have an earlier type panhard rod rear suspension,
BJ7 exhaust, and a lifting Armrest storage box.
Single Bullet tailights are not related to the "Phase"
classification of the BJ8.
Actually, the word on the street is for about a year
in 1965, the factory wavered between single and double
indicator lights depending on whether Jensen delivered
a late model BJ8 body or the earlier BJ8 style...
apparently they had several of these earlier bodies in
stock still even after they switched the tooling and
delivered them interspersed with the new style when
delivery was convenient. That's why the body numbers
aren't sequential with the switch between body types.
I know, I have a high number single indicator BJ8, '66
model year....
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Ron Rader <rader@interworld.net> wrote:
> John:
> I have a early model with single bullet tailight but
> it is a phase II.
> Ron r
>
> > Until that moment, I never knew that the the quick
> and easy handle for my
> > [former] BJ8 was "phase 1." Certainly easier to
> say than "early model, with
> > the single bullet taillights."
> > Best,
> > --
> > John Miller, N4VU
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From "Paul Negus" <Paul.Negus at iplbath.com>
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Thu, 28 Nov 2002 10:08:47 -0000
Subject: sprite drive shaft
It's many years since I last fitted one of these back onto a Sprite but the
method that I used was to use newspaper and sellotape wrapped around the front
UJ to make the shaft rigid.
There's no need to remove the tape and paper - it will fly off into the tranny
tunnel as the shaft turns and you can remove it at leisure.
Regards
Paul
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2002 15:24:14 -0500
From: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Subject: sprite drive shaft
Hi everybody I need to know if ther are any trick to removing and installing a
drive shaft from my 68 sprite I want to chang out the u-joints.And I can`t see
anyway to disconnect it from the tranny or dose it slip out to the rear with a
slip joint at the tranny. And how do I line it back up Thanks Steve 68sprite
58bn4
--------------------------------------------------------
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Thu, 28 Nov 2002 09:13:37 -0500
Subject: Phase 1 vs Phase 2 was 100 M issue
There may be others and I'm sure Steve Byers will add them.
1. Modified frame and rear suspension to produce additional rear axle
vertical travel. This includes:
a. Dip in the rear frame
b. Deletion of the Panhard Rod
c. Modification of rear axle housing to accommodate d. and e.
below
d. Addition of radius arms to locate the rear axle
e. Different bump stop rubbers on rear axle
f. Modification of rear kick panel and installation of a box and
pivot to create forward location for radius arms
g. Changes to carpet and rear inner trim panels for f.(above)
h. Shorter bump boxes on body
2. Replacement of outer door handles to push button type including
changes to door latch mechanism
3. Installation of larger Girling 16 front brake calipers
4. Changes to swivel axles to include integral caliper mounts
5. Replacement of Lucas glass lens side and signal lamps with later
plastic lens type.
6. Replacement of glove box between seats with arm rest including
shortening centre console.
7. Change from 12 to 8 t.p.i. on wheel spinners and increase in wall
thickness on rears.
Changes to the exhaust were made at the introduction of the BJ8.
Happy Thanksgiving Neighbours.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Blue One Hundred
Sent: 28-Nov-02 2:59 AM
To: Ron Rader; John Miller
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Fw: 100 M issue
John....
I have one of these "phase II" BJ8s as well - Phase I
BJ8s have an earlier type panhard rod rear suspension,
BJ7 exhaust, and a lifting Armrest storage box.
Single Bullet tailights are not related to the "Phase"
classification of the BJ8.
Actually, the word on the street is for about a year
in 1965, the factory wavered between single and double
indicator lights depending on whether Jensen delivered
a late model BJ8 body or the earlier BJ8 style...
apparently they had several of these earlier bodies in
stock still even after they switched the tooling and
delivered them interspersed with the new style when
delivery was convenient. That's why the body numbers
aren't sequential with the switch between body types.
I know, I have a high number single indicator BJ8, '66
model year....
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
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From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Thu, 28 Nov 2002 09:39:50 -0500
Subject: Re:Re: Hypothetical Question
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Thu, 28 Nov 2002 09:44:05 -0500
Subject: BJ8, HBJ8L/36693 for sale
I received the e-mail below and am forwarding it for whoever might be
interested. From the photos provided, the car appears to be well worth
$14K.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
----------------------------------------
For sale, 1966 Austin-Healey 3000 BJ8, Serial Number HBJ8L/36693
The car is located in Findlay, OH (extreme NW Ohio) and is owned by a friend
of mine who just wants to sell the car because he hardly ever drives it. He
has owned it for many years and only gets it on the road a couple of times a
year. His asking price for the car is $14,000. I am aware that this car is
probably worth much more than that, but he has priced it to sell.
I don't know a lot about this car except what I have been told by the owner.
He says it drives very good. He cannot get the overdrive to kick in, but that
very well might be because the car is almost never driven. I had the same
problem with an MGB that I once owned and the overdrive started working after
I changed the transmission oil.
This car is not a show car. Neither is it a wreck. There is a bit of rust on
the passenger's rocker panel and inside the trunk near the battery. The
wheels have recently been bead blasted and primed and painted and new tires
mounted.
The owner has just had some fairly major surgery and is unavailable for a week
or so, so if you are interested in this car please contact me, Mike Rose, at
lytspeed@hotmail.com and I will put you in contact with the owner.
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Thu, 28 Nov 2002 10:14:24 -0500
Subject: Re:Re: Hypothetical Question
Whistle while you do it, and look in another direction.
--
John Miller, N4VU
A woman is like your shadow; follow her, she flies; fly from her, she follows.
-- Chamfort
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Thu, 28 Nov 2002 10:49:38 -0500
Subject: Re: Phase 1 vs Phase 2 was 100 M issue
It may have been planned that all of those items be included in the changeover
to the Phase 2, but the factory appears to have been pretty casual about
implementing the changes. This is especially true of details such as (but not
limited to) exterior doorhandles and shroud light configuration.
For instance, the first Phase 2 car was supposed to be HBJ8L/26704 (built May,
1964), but the registry data shows that the following cars still have the
lever type exterior doorhandles:
27052 (body 3182 BJ8 71873)
28278 (body 3190 BJ8 73202)
28359 (body XXXX BJ8 73609)
28984
29782 (body 3198 BJ8 74700)
30699 (body 3202 BJ8 75590, built 13 - 21 Jan 65)
33202 (body 3211 BJ8 78089, built 28 Sep - 4 Oct 65)
Of course, some of those cars may have had the doors changed at sometime in
their history after they left the factory, but I doubt that all of them did.
Other details also show a similar "fuzzy" changeover, such as the shroud
lights: the following have the single small clear glass lenses of the Phase 1
era in the front shroud:
27373 (body 3182 BJ8 71650)
28096 (body 3197 BJ8 73876)
28477
30069 (body 3198 BJ8 74797, built 19 - 24 Nov 64)
31264 (body 3205 BJ8 76122)
33710 (body 3212 BJ8 78578)
I would consider a car as Phase 2 if it has the rear axle radius arms and
associated changes (the radius arm boxes in the rear floors are easy to check
for), regardless of what else it might have. Since the other details can vary
so much, either from the factory or afterwards, they aren't very reliable to
identify Phase 1 vs. Phase 2.
Happy Healeydays to everyone!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael Salter
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Thursday, November 28, 2002 9:13 AM
Subject: Phase 1 vs Phase 2 was 100 M issue
There is a pile of confusion over the differences between the 1390
"Phase I" and later "Phase II" BJ8s. The following is a list of the
items that I recall as being changed when the "Phase II" was introduced.
There may be others and I'm sure Steve Byers will add them.
1. Modified frame and rear suspension to produce additional rear axle
vertical travel. This includes:
a. Dip in the rear frame
b. Deletion of the Panhard Rod
c. Modification of rear axle housing to accommodate d. and e.
below
d. Addition of radius arms to locate the rear axle
e. Different bump stop rubbers on rear axle
f. Modification of rear kick panel and installation of a box and
pivot to create forward location for radius arms
g. Changes to carpet and rear inner trim panels for f.(above)
h. Shorter bump boxes on body
2. Replacement of outer door handles to push button type including
changes to door latch mechanism
3. Installation of larger Girling 16 front brake calipers
4. Changes to swivel axles to include integral caliper mounts
5. Replacement of Lucas glass lens side and signal lamps with later
plastic lens type.
6. Replacement of glove box between seats with arm rest including
shortening centre console.
7. Change from 12 to 8 t.p.i. on wheel spinners and increase in wall
thickness on rears.
Changes to the exhaust were made at the introduction of the BJ8.
Happy Thanksgiving Neighbours.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com/
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From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Thu, 28 Nov 2002 10:56:43 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re:Re: Hypothetical Question
One other point; before assuming a 'totalled' car advertised as
'restored' is a fraud and announcing it to the world, check it out
yourself. Otherwise, the courts may have a field day with you.
Happy Thanksgiving to our southern neighbours. Enjoy and go for a
great drive, weather permitting. If it doesn't, just dream of summer.
--Scott Morris [62 BT7 tricarb-driver; 60 BN7-project]
Simcoe, Ontario, Canada
--- Stephen Hutchings <hutching@the-wire.com> wrote: << ..
"nonchalantly check the right front shock tower"...!?? ...what, with a
wire brush, and some paint stripper? Have you ever tried this?
--Stephen BJ8 >>
=====
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
______________________________________________________________________
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
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From "John P. New" <jnew at hazelden.ca>
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: 28 Nov 2002 13:47:59 -0500
Subject: BMC Carburetter Service Sheets Posted
I just wanted to let everyone know that I have posted two more BMC
Service Sheets to my Web site at
http://members.rogers.com/jnew/austinhealey/index.html
The first is "Type HD SU Carburetter, Basic Principles (Service Sheet
AUC 9794)". This is a great introduction and explanation for those (like
me) who are sometimes mystified by the inner workings of the SU Carb.
The second is "Type HD SU Carburetter, Instructions for replacing
Polytetrafluoroethylene (P.T.F.E.) bushes in throttle spindle bores
(Service Sheet AUC 9791)". This is great for those wanting to rebuild
their carbs.
Thanks to Earl Kagna for supplying me with the service sheets.
Enjoy,
John P. New
London, Ontario, Canada
'67 BJ8
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Thu, 28 Nov 2002 14:47:13 EST
Subject: eBay question - tell the powers-that-be?
Since I've never looked at eBay, i don't know, but perhaps one of our online
market experts would know who to ask.
Cheers
Gary
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Thu, 28 Nov 2002 14:54:49 EST
Subject: Re: Fw: 100 M issue
<< John:
I have a early model with single bullet tailight but it is a phase II.
Ron r >>
Right -- There's no mystery here; the information is listed in the Service
Parts List and the transition is described in detail in most standard Healey
reference books -- The designation "Phase II" is generally understood to
denote BJ8s built after the frame and rear suspension were changed and the
trailing arms added to give the car more clearance and a little better
handling. The change in lights from single to dual head and tail lights did
not coincide with that change, but rather was made soon afterward. (I've even
heard some people refer to a car with dual signal lights and the suspension
change as "Phase III" cars.
Cheers
Gary
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Thu, 28 Nov 2002 12:19:30 -0800
Subject: Re: Phase 1 vs Phase 2 was 100 M issue
Michael Salter wrote:
> There is a pile of confusion over the differences between the 1390
> "Phase I" and later "Phase II" BJ8s. The following is a list of the
> items that I recall as being changed when the "Phase II" was introduced.
>
> There may be others and I'm sure Steve Byers will add them.
>
> 1. Modified frame and rear suspension to produce additional rear axle
> vertical travel. This includes:
> a. Dip in the rear frame
> b. Deletion of the Panhard Rod
> c. Modification of rear axle housing to accommodate d. and e.
> below
> d. Addition of radius arms to locate the rear axle
> e. Different bump stop rubbers on rear axle
> f. Modification of rear kick panel and installation of a box and
> pivot to create forward location for radius arms
> g. Changes to carpet and rear inner trim panels for f.(above)
> h. Shorter bump boxes on body
>
> 2. Replacement of outer door handles to push button type including
> changes to door latch mechanism
>
> 3. Installation of larger Girling 16 front brake calipers
>
> 4. Changes to swivel axles to include integral caliper mounts
>
> 5. Replacement of Lucas glass lens side and signal lamps with later
> plastic lens type.
>
> 6. Replacement of glove box between seats with arm rest including
> shortening centre console.
>
> 7. Change from 12 to 8 t.p.i. on wheel spinners and increase in wall
> thickness on rears.
>
> Changes to the exhaust were made at the introduction of the BJ8.
>
> Happy Thanksgiving Neighbours.
>
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com/
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Thu, 28 Nov 2002 12:23:41 -0800
Subject: Re: Phase 1 vs Phase 2 was 100 M issue
Steve Byers wrote:
> That's a pretty comprehensive list, Mike, and I don't have any items to add;
> but I'll make a comment:
>
> I would consider a car as Phase 2 if it has the rear axle radius arms and
> associated changes (the radius arm boxes in the rear floors are easy to check
> for), regardless of what else it might have. Since the other details can vary
> so much, either from the factory or afterwards, they aren't very reliable to
> identify Phase 1 vs. Phase 2.
>
> Happy Healeydays to everyone!
>
> Steve Byers
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Thu, 28 Nov 2002 15:28:57 EST
Subject: Re: Phase 1 vs Phase 2 was 100 M issue
This includes:
a. Dip in the rear frame
b. Deletion of the Panhard Rod
c. Modification of rear axle housing to accommodate d. and e.
below
d. Addition of radius arms to locate the rear axle
e. Different bump stop rubbers on rear axle
f. Modification of rear kick panel and installation of a box and
pivot to create forward location for radius arms
g. Changes to carpet and rear inner trim panels for f.(above)
h. Shorter bump boxes on body
2. Replacement of outer door handles to push button type including
changes to door latch mechanism at HBJ8 26705 and onward.
3. Installation of larger Girling 16 front brake calipers At HBJ826705 onward
4. Changes to swivel axles to include integral caliper mounts At HBJ8 26705
onward
5. Replacement of Lucas glass lens side and signal lamps with later
plastic lens type. change took place in North America cars with HBJ876138
onward, (other markets, including West Germany, italy, and Sweden changed
earlier -- the change listings run for about ten pages) There's no indication
in the SPL that the changes occured in an intermittent sequence, but if
someone had an original N.A. car earlier than 76138 with the plastic lenses,
or a car later than 76138 with glass lenses, I'll reconsider what the SPL
says.
6. Replacement of glove box between seats with arm rest including
shortening centre console. change took place with HBJ826705
7. Change from 12 to 8 t.p.i. on wheel spinners and increase in wall
thickness on rears. >> AT HBJ826705 onward
SO, all together class: The Phase II, with modified suspension, hubs, door
handles, and center console, was introduced with HBJ826705.
The combined indicator lights with glass lenses were replaced with separate
indicator lights with plastic lenses with HBJ876138 (except in specific
European countries).
Any questions?
Cheers
Gary
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Thu, 28 Nov 2002 15:39:32 EST
Subject: Re: Phase 1 vs Phase 2-Lighting changes
<< Other details also show a similar "fuzzy" changeover, such as the shroud
lights: the following have the single small clear glass lenses of the Phase 1
era in the front shroud:
27373 (body 3182 BJ8 71650)
28096 (body 3197 BJ8 73876)
28477
30069 (body 3198 BJ8 74797, built 19 - 24 Nov 64)
31264 (body 3205 BJ8 76122)
33710 (body 3212 BJ8 78578) >>
Note that only one of these cars (78578) was built after 76138 when the
change was documented by the factory to have occured. On the other hand,
that car has a body number very close to 76122. I'd certainly accept the
possibility that the body shell or partially completed car got diverted
somewhere before assembly was completed -- or the chassis number is
incorrect, or something. One exception wouldn't be enough to convince me
that the change-over was "fuzzy" but rather would lead me to look very
carefully at the specific car to see if it has any stories to tell.
Cheers
Gary Anderon
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From "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Thu, 28 Nov 2002 16:25:58 -0600
Subject: Re: eBay question - tell the powers-that-be?
A good example is the guy who has 25 Cartier watches on the auction at any given
time all starting at $1.00 with no reserve even though if real would be worth a
minimum of $2,500 each. He say disclaims it by saying "I'm no watch expert and I
got this at an estate sale. All sales are final. Ebay will allow him to
continue. As I said, sad.
Bob Denton
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
> What do the powers-that-be at eBay have to say? Isn't there some sort of
> central place at eBay that monitors sales to avoid scams and
> misrepresentations?
>
> Since I've never looked at eBay, i don't know, but perhaps one of our online
> market experts would know who to ask.
>
> Cheers
> Gary
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From Grglmn at cs.com
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Thu, 28 Nov 2002 17:24:02 EST
Subject: Re: eBay question - tell the powers-that-be?
> This part of Ebay is quite sad. If you can prove to them that it is scam or a
> counterfeit and they can really grasp it, there is a 50/50 chance they will
> pull
> the listing and spank the seller. Most of the times they accept what the
> seller
> says it is.
>
>From my experiences with E-bay I concur. They will crack down on deadbeat
bidders (win auction but don't pay), but sellers they pretty much leave alone
unless numerous provable transgressions occur, it is the sellers who pay the
bills at E-bay, go figure.
My cynical thanksgiving thoughts.
Happy Thanksgiving all
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
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From "Ph.J.Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin at tiscali.nl>
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Thu, 28 Nov 2002 23:40:12 +0100
Subject: Black instead of grey
I just printed the two new S.U.service sheets which John P.New put on his
website (Thanks a lot, John and Earl!).
Whatever I do, the prints which come out of my printer are printed in gray
instead of black. My screen shows beautiful black text and pictures. I am
printing the files out of IrfanView version 3.75 on a Canon bubble jet printer
(BJC 220) fitted with a black ink reservoir. Is there anything I can do in
order to obtain a real black print with my present equipment?
TIA
Jack Aeckerlin
Capelle a/d Yssel, The Netherlands
64 BJ8 29432
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From "John P. New" <jnew at hazelden.ca>
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: 28 Nov 2002 18:15:38 -0500
Subject: Re: Black instead of grey
I'm not familiar with the program nor the printer you are using, so the
only thing I could suggest is increasing the printing resolution (dots
per inch) and the print density (how much ink is placed on the page). I
just printed out one of the pages and it is as black as on the screen.
John
On Thu, 2002-11-28 at 17:40, Ph.J.Aeckerlin wrote:
> Hi Listers,
>
> I just printed the two new S.U.service sheets which John P.New put on his
> website (Thanks a lot, John and Earl!).
>
> Whatever I do, the prints which come out of my printer are printed in gray
> instead of black. My screen shows beautiful black text and pictures. I am
> printing the files out of IrfanView version 3.75 on a Canon bubble jet printer
> (BJC 220) fitted with a black ink reservoir. Is there anything I can do in
> order to obtain a real black print with my present equipment?
>
> TIA
>
> Jack Aeckerlin
> Capelle a/d Yssel, The Netherlands
> 64 BJ8 29432
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Thu, 28 Nov 2002 19:40:47 -0600
Subject: Re: eBay question - tell the powers-that-be?
Mark
>
>
> > This part of Ebay is quite sad. If you can prove to them that it is scam
or a
> > counterfeit and they can really grasp it, there is a 50/50 chance they
will
> > pull
> > the listing and spank the seller. Most of the times they accept what the
> > seller
> > says it is.
> >
>
> >From my experiences with E-bay I concur. They will crack down on
deadbeat
> bidders (win auction but don't pay), but sellers they pretty much leave
alone
> unless numerous provable transgressions occur, it is the sellers who pay
the
> bills at E-bay, go figure.
>
> My cynical thanksgiving thoughts.
>
> Happy Thanksgiving all
>
> Greg Lemon
> 54 BN1
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From Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Thu, 28 Nov 2002 21:20:09 -0500
Subject: drive shaft
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From Richard Wegner <rwegner at synapse.net>
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Thu, 28 Nov 2002 21:42:54 -0500
Subject: Re: AH-100 for sale
>In our recent Healey Buyers Guide, we estimated a value of $11,000 for a
>BN1/2 that is "a project car with all components and most details intact,
>limited rust or structural damage, but needing extensive restoration before
>being usable."
Hi Gary,
Can you elaborate a little on how this value was arrived at? For
example was this based on a driveable car, did the engine run, etc.
I currently have 3 - 100 project cars which I am trying to sell, and
it really is difficult to arrive at a reasonable estimate of their
value. One is reasonably complete, has been stored for about 25
years, but definitely not driveable in its current state. The other
2 are what I would call parts cars, although I am sure they could be
restored if someone had the $ and ambition.
So anymore details you could provide would certainly be appreciated.
Cheers,
Richard Wegner
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From cyfied <cyfied at uslink.net>
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Thu, 28 Nov 2002 22:31:46 -0600
Subject: Re: Hypothetical question
Rick Ollah
54 BN1
Master Claims Representative
Roland Wilhelmy wrote:
> You know, "totalled" can mean an awful wide range of damage. All it
> might mean is that the insurance company was willing to pay more to
> total the car than to repair it, and depending on the car's owner's
> response, that might involve non structural damage only, such as a
> demolished front or rear shroud with or without fenders. This could
> be repaired by replacement and with some top quality body work and
> produce a car as good as new. Of course it could also mean that there
> was a twisted mass of sheet metal hiding under that nice paint job,
> too, or a trapezoid-shaped frame.
>
> So, knowing or hearing that a car offered me had been totalled would
> be a red flag, and I would want to know about it. But it would not
> necessarily mean that the car was junk or was worth a whole lot less
> than an untotalled car. Ideally I would like pictures of the car with
> damage, and when it was under reconstruction, and a list of repairs.
>
> I think that an honest seller would provide information without being
> asked. Someone who discovered a situation Steve describes should make
> what he knows known to others, and contact the seller. That way the
> seller could not claim that he never knew the car had been totalled.
> I think it would be risky to try to corner each bidder and email them
> a "did you know ...." I suspect that eBay would say that the seller
> takes full responsibility for accuracy and completeness of
> description, so eBay wouldn't be interested in getting involved.
>
> -Roland
> BN1, BJ7
>
> On Wed, 27 Nov 2002 17:31:17 -0500, "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>
> wrote:
>
> :: Suppose one saw a Healey for sale on eBay, and knew that the car had been
> :: totalled about a year ago, but the description makes no mention of it.
>What
> :: recommendations would you have for what should be done with that knowledge?
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From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Thu, 28 Nov 2002 23:50:52 -0600
Subject: Re: Hypothetical Question
The original post by Steve Beyers " ....Suppose one saw a Healey for sale on
e-Bay, and knew that the car had been totaled about a year ago, but the
description makes no mention of it. What recommendations would you have for
what should be done with that knowledge?"
This is an interesting question as it is posed - first it deals with the
individual who has knowledge of this potential fraud (if that term can be used
here) i.e. his values - he can do nothing, he contact the seller to inquire
about the vehicle; he can without all information at his disposal attempt to
advertize this problem on a media such as this or like media (Healey Marque,
local club newsletter, or other). If he feels he has all the information and it
points to a "fraud" he can contact the listing agency, in this example e-bay.
His information could be that the disposal of most of the vehicle was to a
variety of sources, which in a way someone has acquired the appropriate plate
(VIN, body numbers, etc.) and placed them on another car. Etc. Etc.
But as my friend and club mate Scott Morris has ably pointed out someone may
have acquired the totaled vehicle, at least the essential pieces, (and taken
several cars to fabricate the car which appears on e-bay ) or purchased
sufficient spares to reconstitute the vehicle (nice to have that sort of bank
roll) - this has surely been done by more than one once over the last 40 years.
For me it comes back to the character (morals) of the individual with the
initial knowledge he had on hand, if it is complete, and legally he feels he
is observing a fraudulent act, his actions are - walk away or provide e-bay
with the documentation of the fraud. This way we never have to reach the buyer
beware stage. But if he does not have all the facts - then Scott's have much
merit!
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
BJ8 and Morgan 4/4
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Thu, 28 Nov 2002 22:04:32 -0800 (PST)
Subject: shock tower-was re.Hypothetical question
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2002 17:49:16 -0800 (PST)
From: Blue One Hundred
<international_investor@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Hypothetical question
Steve -
You know as well as I do that there are a few stolen
healeys out there and it wouldn't be all that
difficult to switch VINs with a totalled car to try to
clean up the paper trail.
I think the thing to do is to have a list member go
there to pretend to be a buyer but then nonchalantly
check the right front shock tower, write down the
proper VIN number, and then check it ..........
__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now.
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From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Thu, 28 Nov 2002 22:49:41 -0800
Subject: Re: Black instead of grey
(The Other) Len.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ph.J.Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>
To: "Healey users website" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, November 28, 2002 2:40 PM
Subject: Black instead of grey
> Hi Listers,
>
> I just printed the two new S.U.service sheets which John P.New put on his
> website (Thanks a lot, John and Earl!).
>
> Whatever I do, the prints which come out of my printer are printed in gray
> instead of black. My screen shows beautiful black text and pictures. I am
> printing the files out of IrfanView version 3.75 on a Canon bubble jet
printer
> (BJC 220) fitted with a black ink reservoir. Is there anything I can do in
> order to obtain a real black print with my present equipment?
>
> TIA
>
> Jack Aeckerlin
> Capelle a/d Yssel, The Netherlands
> 64 BJ8 29432
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Fri, 29 Nov 2002 07:43:49 -0500
Subject: Roller Rockers
Thanks.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com/
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From EJBJR935 at aol.com
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Fri, 29 Nov 2002 08:58:33 EST
Subject: HYPOTHETICAL QUESTION
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Fri, 29 Nov 2002 12:24:46 EST
Subject: Re: AH-100 for sale
<< >In our recent Healey Buyers Guide, we estimated a value of $11,000 for a
>BN1/2 that is "a project car with all components and most details intact,
>limited rust or structural damage, but needing extensive restoration before
>being usable."
Hi Gary,
Can you elaborate a little on how this value was arrived at? For
example was this based on a driveable car, did the engine run, etc.
I currently have 3 - 100 project cars which I am trying to sell, and
it really is difficult to arrive at a reasonable estimate of their
value. One is reasonably complete, has been stored for about 25
years, but definitely not driveable in its current state. The other
2 are what I would call parts cars, although I am sure they could be
restored if someone had the $ and ambition.
So anymore details you could provide would certainly be appreciated. >>
The value estimates are based on our knowledge of specific cars that have
sold -- generally at auction since those are open sales of cars that we or
other auction commentators have had a chance to inspect -- coupled with
discussions with people in the business (restorers and dealers).
Our lowest category project car is defined as a running car -- sorry, didn't
make that clear. Thus we don't put value on disassembled cars or cars with
non-running engines.
Aside from that, there isn't any real good way to put a value on a specific
car for appraisal purposes without actually seeing that car, and, frankly, no
way to tell a seller exactly what his car should sell for. The value
estimates are simply intended to give people an idea of what they might have
to pay on average, to help them decide if they would like to buy particular
car, and to give people info on specific sales so they can decide how much
money they wish to put into a car that they are thinking about buying or
restoring.
As to your situation, all I can say is -- put them up for sale and publicize
them in as many ways as possible -- local newspaper and auto trader, club
magazines, short notices on this list, British Car magazine, and eBay -- and
see what kind of interest you get. If you don't get any responses, then
you're advertising in the wrong place or asking WAY too much money. If you
get responses but no one bites, then you're asking more than the market
believes they're worth.
Not much more scientific than that.
Cheers
Gary
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Fri, 29 Nov 2002 12:50:01 EST
Subject: Re: Roller Rockers
<< I am looking for a set of 8 roller rockets 1.6 / 1 ratio for a 100/4
race engine.
Anyone out there got a set they aren't using or know of a US source?
Thanks.
Michael Salter >>
For shame -- such a crude violation of the vintage car racing spirit. "I'm
shocked...shocked that there's gambling going on ..." I meanb& that you'd
consider doing such a thing.
Be aware, of course, that roller rockers are expressly forbidden in any of
the racing events that Steve Earle and General Racing organize (Monterey
Historics, etc.) and spot checks are carried out at each event.
Cheers
Gary
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From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Fri, 29 Nov 2002 18:20:23 +0000
Subject: Re: Hypothetical question
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Fri, 29 Nov 2002 13:29:30 EST
Subject: Re: Hypothetical question
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Fri, 29 Nov 2002 14:50:09 EST
Subject: Re: Hypothetical question
Q. > What would a car be if it had a Jules chassis?
A. Probably real nice!
Best--Michael Oritt
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From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Fri, 29 Nov 2002 14:54:19 -0600
Subject: Hypothetical Question
I don't do that.
I don't pay top dollar for those knives, usually a couple of bucks at a flea
market. I could even substitute a real "BOKER" OR "CASE" blade from another
junk knife but I won't do that either.
Good knife collectors know what to look for to determine genuine originality
and I think Good Healey owners should know what to look for to find an original
genuine Healey.
In a manner of speaking it is Buyer Beware, but the seller needs to be told
that he is lacking in morals and character if he tries to pass something off
for something it AINT.
(PLEASE DON'T FLAME ME FOR USING 'AINT' IT'S JUST TO MAKE A POINT)
Don
BN7
"Life is not measured by the breaths we take but by the things that take our
breath away"
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Fri, 29 Nov 2002 14:52:30 -0600
Subject: Re: HYPOTHETICAL QUESTION
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From "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Fri, 29 Nov 2002 16:12:03 -0600
Subject: Re: Hypothetical Question
Don Yarber wrote:
> I guess everything is relevant. As an example:
> I collect old pocket knives. Occasionally I'll find a Case or a Boker that
>is in VERY good condition with the exception of one broken blade.
> It would be very easy for me to drive out the bolster rivets, take the knife
>apart and substitute a blade. I could even etch the blade "BOKER" OR "CASE".
>
> I don't do that.
>
> I don't pay top dollar for those knives, usually a couple of bucks at a flea
>market. I could even substitute a real "BOKER" OR "CASE" blade from another
>junk knife but I won't do that either.
>
> Good knife collectors know what to look for to determine genuine originality
>and I think Good Healey owners should know what to look for to find an
>original genuine Healey.
> In a manner of speaking it is Buyer Beware, but the seller needs to be told
>that he is lacking in morals and character if he tries to pass something off
>for something it AINT.
> (PLEASE DON'T FLAME ME FOR USING 'AINT' IT'S JUST TO MAKE A POINT)
> Don
> BN7
> "Life is not measured by the breaths we take but by the things that take our
>breath away"
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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Fri, 29 Nov 2002 16:13:24 -0500
Subject: Re: Hypothetical question
> What would a car be if it had a Jules chassis? Say an owner of a car that
had
> some serious frame damage decided to restore the car and chose to replace
the
> chassis with the better, stronger Jules chassis and put the car
identification
> tags on the new chassis. Would that be fraud or a restoration? Or if the
entire
> front clip of a car was replaced?
> I would think that with cars like ours, that are subject to the ravages of
time
> and rust, where panels and sections of the cars are replaced to keep the
car on
> the road I think that there are more than a few cars out there that have
had
> that level of remanufacture/restoration and if the quality of the work
holds up
> then what's the harm?
In my humble opinion any "restoration " part or component should not be
unrecognizable from the original when applied to the car. If someone makes a
frame with thicker gauge metal, then the extra thickness hopefully would be
to the inside....results: undetectable but stronger.
There are unfortunately many reproduction or replacement parts that are
easily recognizable as being not like the original, even at a quick glance.
This must be carefully considered before applying it to the car, thereby
altering the autenticity and value. In the case of some parts, they can be
traded out for exact parts at a later date, but a frame...that would be
impractical and virtually economically impossible.
Bottom line....if (and this is a big if) the restoration is so well done
that it's indistinguishable from the original, other than being new and
fresh of course, then I see no harm in even major replaced components.
Rich Chrysler
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Fri, 29 Nov 2002 16:33:08 -0500
Subject: Re: Hypothetical question II
If someone set out to build a Healey from scratch (economically unfeasible,
of course), what percentage of the parts could only be obtained used, and not
as aftermarket parts? For purposes of this exercise, they need not be
"correct," just functionally equivalent.
I'm thinking transmission, OD and rear end, just for starters, but thought I
remembered mention of an aftermarket engine block at some point.
Best,
--
John "as a matter of fact, I *am* demented" Miller
Saints should always be judged guilty until they are proved innocent.
-- George Orwell, "Reflections on Gandhi"
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From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Fri, 29 Nov 2002 16:48:51 -0500
Subject: Re: Hypothetical question
...IMHO a Jule chassis is not a better, stronger chassis for an
Austin-Healey. You wouldn't do that to a Ferrari, unless you want
to severely depreciate the car; the chassis was built that way for
historical, economical and mechanical reasons. A repaired original
chassis, or a good copy of the original, is better than no car at
all, but It'll never beat an unrestored, undamaged car. Still, I
would want documented proof, photos & all to accompany that
re-chassied car at the time of sale, so that everyone knows the
extent of the restoration work.
Alain Giguhre
BN7 Bits
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From jbpate at attglobal.net
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Fri, 29 Nov 2002 17:14:18 -0500
Subject: Windshield pillar weatherseal
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Fri, 29 Nov 2002 17:20:54 EST
Subject: Re: Windshield pillar weatherseal
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Fri, 29 Nov 2002 18:03:32 -0500
Subject: RE: Roller Rockers
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Editorgary@aol.com
Sent: 29-Nov-02 12:50 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Roller Rockers
In a message dated 11/29/02 4:47:28 AM, msalter@precisionsportscar.com
writes:
<< I am looking for a set of 8 roller rockets 1.6 / 1 ratio for a 100/4
race engine.
Anyone out there got a set they aren't using or know of a US source?
Thanks.
Michael Salter >>
For shame -- such a crude violation of the vintage car racing spirit.
"I'm
shocked...shocked that there's gambling going on ..." I meanb& that
you'd
consider doing such a thing.
Be aware, of course, that roller rockers are expressly forbidden in any
of
the racing events that Steve Earle and General Racing organize (Monterey
Historics, etc.) and spot checks are carried out at each event.
Cheers
Gary
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Fri, 29 Nov 2002 20:44:13 -0500
Subject: RE: Windshield pillar weatherseal
The original was indeed attached to the windshield post (4 on each side
as I recall) and sometimes the fender lip with "pop" rivets.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of jbpate@attglobal.net
Sent: 29-Nov-02 5:14 PM
To: Healey
Subject: Windshield pillar weatherseal
What is used for weatherseal from the top of the windshield down the
pillar post to the fender of a 1967 BJ8? Furflex? Is it riveted in
place? If not furflex, is there a source for something like the
original? . Barry Pate
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From Jag62e at aol.com
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Fri, 29 Nov 2002 21:19:57 EST
Subject: BJ8 for sale
Dick North
Prescott,AZ
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From cyfied <cyfied at uslink.net>
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Fri, 29 Nov 2002 20:31:39 -0600
Subject: Re: HYPOTHETICAL QUESTION
Just a thought
Rick
54 BN1 (well most of it)
EJBJR935@aol.com wrote:
> <PRE>What is the concensus of the list as how to classify or identify a Healey
> that has been restored from componets of various cars? What if it sits on a
> Jule frame or the major componts from one car (frame) are moved to a
> different frame? What is the end result called?
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From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Fri, 29 Nov 2002 23:38:43 -0600
Subject: Choke cable mount in passenger compartment on BT7
Thanks in advance,
Brian Collins
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from repeated pulls on the choke knob???
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2002 00:43:51 -0600
Subject: Choke cable again
Thanks in advance,
BrianCollins
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From Robert Larson <robertlarson at worldnet.att.net>
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2002 00:59:55 -0500
Subject: A Hypothetical Question. Is totaled bad?
Car 1
Owned by a car guy since new. Was driven regularly just for the joy of
it. Has not seen a drop of rain in almost 30 years and is as rust free as you
will ever find. Showed signs of usage but was an excellent unrestored, garage
kept car. OOPS.. garage catches fire with car in it. Car burns with it.
For the insurance settlement owner get a medium size bag of cash and keeps
the car with a clearly marked salvage title from the insurance company. With
this, his skills, and professional help does a restoration. It's NOS parts and
used/rebuilt originals as second choice. Best available new in a few instances
where the 1st and 2nd choices were not available.
Car now gets entered into one of the big Healey shows. Noted Healey Gurus
Gary and Roger judge the car and both are "Wow, what a car, it's as perfect as
can be!" Appears in the Healey magazines and a TV commercial. Gold with a
tainted title.
Car 2
Another excellent driver. Owner parks it in front of his house and a
truck with failed brakes comes careening down the street tearing up the entire
drivers side. No frame damage and no major suspension damage to the front end.
Truckers insurance company evaluates car and declares it a total loss and offers
a settlement. Owner is not happy with the offer and after some dickering
accepts their offer minus $100 but gets to keep the car. This is a few years
ago when not all states had salvage titles. Owner repairs the car with some
junkyard parts and poor quality patch panels. The owner was a real craftsman
and backyard mechanic. A few years later he does a more serious "restoration",
again excellently done, but done as cheaply as possible. Gets entered into
local shows and judged. Every time flaws are found and declared they get fixed
until the vehicle squeaks into the "Gold" category. Gold with a clean title.
Car 3
Factory race car. Brought to this country to race at Sebring. During
practice up and coming Jackie Q. Driver is given the opportunity to take the
car out. He gets to evaluate the car and the factory team is evaluating him.
He is offered a spot with the team as a backup/relief driver. Jackie's career
takes off and eventually he becomes known world wide as a driver. Then as a
consultant and TV announcer. The race starts with another driver and within
short order the car spins out and is T-boned. It gets banged around like a
billiard ball by a few other cars. The factory team salvages a few parts and
gives the car to a local dealer/racer. It is not worth shipping back to the
homeland to rebuild. The local dealer cobbles the car back together and
campaigns it locally for a few years, being in a few serious mishaps over its
career. It is retired and abandoned out behind the dealers facility. Years
later along comes Harry having heard rumors of this old Healey race car. He is
into Vintage Racing. He strikes a deal with the present owner of the shop. The
deal almost falls apart because there is no title to the race car. There was
never one issued. The deal is salvaged when the nearby state of A-- issues one.
The state in the past being fairly liberal in issuing titles. Harry sets out
to rebuild the car and race it. In the process he discovers that this car he
now owns was the factory race car at Sebring. Less than 10% of the original car
remains. Car is next seen at one of the big auctions with all the paperwork to
prove its racing provenance and is advertised as "Jackie's Sebring Car".
Car 4
It is early 70's in the farm land of middle America. A Healey is eating
up the country roads just like it should. With a loud bang a connecting rod
lets go. The car coasts to the side of the road and no real damage is done too
the block. Back then the car could have been repaired by popping the head,
dropping the pan and removing the piston and broken rod. The one bad journal
was grindable in situ. Get a new rod and gasket set and put it back together.
That was the original intent when the car was towed home. Never happened, it
just sits in the field gradually sinking into the ground. Segue 25 years, along
comes Sammy the Healey lover. It is a Healey he can afford. He cuts a $50 deal
with the farmer and leaves with the original title. A week later he comes back
with a rented flatbed trailer and the farmer with his tractor pulls it out of
the muck. Sammy gets it home and hoses it down to see what he has. After the
force of the water washes away the mud and large areas of car along with it,
Harry realizes that the lower third of the car is almost gone. Harry is a
welder by trade and a damn good one too. He locates a garage kept rear ended
wreck in Maine which was a non-title state back then. In another Southern
state he locates a Project car that comes with a title but none of the parts
he gets in this deal matches any number on the title. Harry with his skills and
perseverance builds a really nice car using the rust bucket as a start and
large chunks of the other two cars welded in. The car is never judged but every
who has ever seen it thinks of it as a "Silver" quality car. Harry encounters
some hard times and in order to get his daughter through her last year of
college decides to sell the car. He prices it to sell, somewhere between a
steal and the low end of fair market value. A great looker with a clean title.
There we have it 4 "Hypo-Healeys" between 30 and 43 years old.
Now for the Hypothetical Questions. Ask yourself, " Which cars would
I consider buying and, why?" Also which cars, if any, fall into the following
category, "Car X is a fraud, I would not touch it with a ten foot pole!"
Maybe one of the computer Wizards could set up a poll on a web site.
We can then all go vote and settle this once and for all.
Bob
55BN1 (Doesn't fit into any of the above descriptions.)
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Fri, 29 Nov 2002 19:57:09 -0600
Subject: Re: Hypothetical question II
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From Grglmn at cs.com
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2002 08:41:58 EST
Subject: Re: A Hypothetical Question. Is totaled bad?
> As long as we are indulging ourselves in hypotheticals, here are four "hypo"
> Healeys to evaluate:
>
>
I am not going to reply to each of the hypotheticals, but just reply in
general to the topic. It has been a long time since these cars were
available new, many things have happened to most of them over the years. As
pointed out by the hypotheticals, a car could be both mechanically and
structurally worse than a totaled car without ever being "totaled".
Bottom line:
If you are a seller be honest (naive request, but we can hope)
If you are a buyer or potential buyer find out all you can about the car and
the seller and AHs in general before you buy, if you don't know that much use
resources like this list and the people on it to help you.
Lastly, documented history and originality (car is mostly original parts as
it came from the factory, not issue of original type parts vs. incorrect)
don't necessarily translate into a great car, and lack thereof won't
necessarily translate into a bad car. Decide what is important to you (maybe
both) and proceed from there.
I don't think I have said anything new here, but in my opinion it generally
answers questions of this type.
Happy Healeying
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
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From "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos at msn.com>
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2002 07:14:47 -0700
Subject: Hypothetical Question
Cheers, Henry Morrison
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From "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2002 09:30:55 -0600
Subject: Re: Hypothetical Question
dos_gusanos wrote:
> Many of the Ferraris that bring top dollar have replacement frames. Lots of
> times if the cars ID Tag survived the crash, the car was a candidate for
> restoration. Secondly is a car that has a replacement frame any different
> than one that has new upholstery?
>
> Cheers, Henry Morrison
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2002 09:50:16 EST
Subject: Re: A Hypothetical Question. Is totaled bad?
47,000 miles and mechanically strong. Bought it from a lady who had it for
several years as a toy and the car had accumulated many minor mechanical
problems. I spent 80 hours and $600 detailing the engine and installing new
brakes, shocks and about 50 other items to bring it to a perfect driver
status that will win popularity awards as well.
The catch? It was sectioned at one point in it's life. The body shop owner
built it from a low mileage, rust free BJ7 that was hit in the rear. To that
he added a rust free rear clip. High quality work, the car is built like a
tank and you would never know it.
Many people passed on the car over a six month period it was for sale since
it had been "wrecked." The seller became discouraged and accepted a low
offer. The start price was $16,000 The price so far? $10,600 invested. With
a pedigree the car would have sold for $22,000, it would easily bring $18,000
today. The owner did not want Concours, just a safe driver she could feel
proud to display at local car events.
What I find disgusting is so many of the "club experts" condemn the car since
it was sectioned. Meanwhile they think replacing sills, floors and outriggers
is "acceptable" on their cars. As I tell the new owner, she is having just as
much fun as they are for $30,000 less investment.
Just because a car has been wrecked does not mean it is does not have a
value, you just have to factor it in. What we consider normal restoration
challenges now are a lot different from what we would have done twenty years
ago when many of these cars were parked.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
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From Douglas W Flagg <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2002 09:49:44 -0500
Subject: Re: Smiths Ammeters
Happy Healeying,
Doug
'56 BN2
________________________________________________________________
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From APPRAISE11 at aol.com
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2002 09:55:16 EST
Subject: hypothetical question
as many of you know my car has a salvage number. being nieave when i bought
it didnt know reg number should have been same as number on firewall. no
number on
my car on firewall either. car is in the process of being re-done.not doing a
complete frame off restoration but making it into a nice driver. after car
is done is it still a salvage car or a nice bj7 that has been partially
restored. this is not a hypothetical situation but a real life sitiuation.
mitch
1963 bj7
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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2002 08:04:29 -0700
Subject: Fw: A Hypothetical Question. Is totaled bad?
Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.html
----- Original Message -----
> From: "Robert Larson" <robertlarson@worldnet.att.net>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, November 29, 2002 10:59 PM
> Subject: A Hypothetical Question. Is totaled bad?
>
>
> > As long as we are indulging ourselves in hypotheticals, here are four
> "hypo"
> > Healeys to evaluate:
> >
> > Car 1
> >
> > Owned by a car guy since new. Was driven regularly just for the joy
> of
> > it. Has not seen a drop of rain in almost 30 years and is as rust free
as
> you
> > will ever find. Showed signs of usage but was an excellent unrestored,
> garage
> > kept car. OOPS.. garage catches fire with car in it. Car burns with it.
> > For the insurance settlement owner get a medium size bag of cash
and
> keeps
> > the car with a clearly marked salvage title from the insurance company.
> With
> > this, his skills, and professional help does a restoration. It's NOS
parts
> and
> > used/rebuilt originals as second choice. Best available new in a few
> instances
> > where the 1st and 2nd choices were not available.
> > Car now gets entered into one of the big Healey shows. Noted
Healey
> Gurus
> > Gary and Roger judge the car and both are "Wow, what a car, it's as
> perfect as
> > can be!" Appears in the Healey magazines and a TV commercial. Gold with
a
> > tainted title.
> >
> > Car 2
> >
> > Another excellent driver. Owner parks it in front of his house and
a
> > truck with failed brakes comes careening down the street tearing up the
> entire
> > drivers side. No frame damage and no major suspension damage to the
front
> end.
> > Truckers insurance company evaluates car and declares it a total loss
and
> offers
> > a settlement. Owner is not happy with the offer and after some
dickering
> > accepts their offer minus $100 but gets to keep the car. This is a few
> years
> > ago when not all states had salvage titles. Owner repairs the car with
> some
> > junkyard parts and poor quality patch panels. The owner was a real
> craftsman
> > and backyard mechanic. A few years later he does a more serious
> "restoration",
> > again excellently done, but done as cheaply as possible. Gets entered
into
> > local shows and judged. Every time flaws are found and declared they get
> fixed
> > until the vehicle squeaks into the "Gold" category. Gold with a clean
> title.
> >
> > Car 3
> >
> > Factory race car. Brought to this country to race at Sebring.
During
> > practice up and coming Jackie Q. Driver is given the opportunity to take
> the
> > car out. He gets to evaluate the car and the factory team is evaluating
> him.
> > He is offered a spot with the team as a backup/relief driver. Jackie's
> career
> > takes off and eventually he becomes known world wide as a driver. Then
as
> a
> > consultant and TV announcer. The race starts with another driver and
> within
> > short order the car spins out and is T-boned. It gets banged around like
a
> > billiard ball by a few other cars. The factory team salvages a few parts
> and
> > gives the car to a local dealer/racer. It is not worth shipping back to
> the
> > homeland to rebuild. The local dealer cobbles the car back together and
> > campaigns it locally for a few years, being in a few serious mishaps
over
> its
> > career. It is retired and abandoned out behind the dealers facility.
Years
> > later along comes Harry having heard rumors of this old Healey race car.
> He is
> > into Vintage Racing. He strikes a deal with the present owner of the
shop.
> The
> > deal almost falls apart because there is no title to the race car. There
> was
> > never one issued. The deal is salvaged when the nearby state of A--
issues
> one.
> > The state in the past being fairly liberal in issuing titles. Harry sets
> out
> > to rebuild the car and race it. In the process he discovers that this
car
> he
> > now owns was the factory race car at Sebring. Less than 10% of the
> original car
> > remains. Car is next seen at one of the big auctions with all the
> paperwork to
> > prove its racing provenance and is advertised as "Jackie's Sebring Car".
> >
> > Car 4
> >
> > It is early 70's in the farm land of middle America. A Healey is
> eating
> > up the country roads just like it should. With a loud bang a connecting
> rod
> > lets go. The car coasts to the side of the road and no real damage is
done
> too
> > the block. Back then the car could have been repaired by popping the
head,
> > dropping the pan and removing the piston and broken rod. The one bad
> journal
> > was grindable in situ. Get a new rod and gasket set and put it back
> together.
> > That was the original intent when the car was towed home. Never
happened,
> it
> > just sits in the field gradually sinking into the ground. Segue 25
years,
> along
> > comes Sammy the Healey lover. It is a Healey he can afford. He cuts a
$50
> deal
> > with the farmer and leaves with the original title. A week later he
comes
> back
> > with a rented flatbed trailer and the farmer with his tractor pulls it
out
> of
> > the muck. Sammy gets it home and hoses it down to see what he has. After
> the
> > force of the water washes away the mud and large areas of car along with
> it,
> > Harry realizes that the lower third of the car is almost gone. Harry is
a
> > welder by trade and a damn good one too. He locates a garage kept rear
> ended
> > wreck in Maine which was a non-title state back then. In another
Southern
> > state he locates a Project car that comes with a title but none of the
> parts
> > he gets in this deal matches any number on the title. Harry with his
> skills and
> > perseverance builds a really nice car using the rust bucket as a start
and
> > large chunks of the other two cars welded in. The car is never judged
but
> every
> > who has ever seen it thinks of it as a "Silver" quality car. Harry
> encounters
> > some hard times and in order to get his daughter through her last year
of
> > college decides to sell the car. He prices it to sell, somewhere between
a
> > steal and the low end of fair market value. A great looker with a clean
> title.
> >
> >
> >
> > There we have it 4 "Hypo-Healeys" between 30 and 43 years old.
> >
> > Now for the Hypothetical Questions. Ask yourself, " Which cars
> would
> > I consider buying and, why?" Also which cars, if any, fall into the
> following
> > category, "Car X is a fraud, I would not touch it with a ten foot pole!"
> >
> > Maybe one of the computer Wizards could set up a poll on a web
> site.
> > We can then all go vote and settle this once and for all.
> >
> > Bob
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From tm-c at gmx.net
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2002 17:02:58 +0100 (MET)
Subject: BJ8 Tach problems with Pertronix
reading the thread on "BJ8 Erratic Tach" I keep thinking on this irritating
thing I have with my own tach.
After installing the Pertronix electronic ignition my car runs fine at idle
as well as higher speeds. However, when accelerating above 3000/3200 rpm the
needle of the tach starts to drop again. The car is accelarating normally.
I was told this has happened to another BJ8 with the Pertronix.
Anybody has a fix for this?
Best regards
Thomas
466 BJ8
--
+++ GMX - Mail, Messaging & more http://www.gmx.net +++
NEU: Mit GMX ins Internet. Rund um die Uhr f|r 1 ct/ Min. surfen!
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From "Mark Endicott" <mark at nashvilletn.org>
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2002 10:31:08 -0600
Subject: Re: BJ8 Tach problems with Pertronix
Mark
Nashville
From: <tm-c@gmx.net>
> Hi Listers,
>
> After installing the Pertronix electronic ignition my car runs fine at
idle
> as well as higher speeds. However, when accelerating above 3000/3200 rpm
the
> needle of the tach starts to drop again. The car is accelarating normally.
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From "Peter Conover" <pconover at attbi.com>
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2002 10:38:54 -0600
Subject: Wiper/grease fitting
As I get closer to getting my BJ7 restoration on the road this coming spring,
I realize that I'll probably run into lots of situations like the following:
1) Last winter, I replaced the king pins using the kit manufactured in the UK
by QH [Quinton Hazell], supplied by Moss at that time (I believe they have
changed since then). During the course of installation, I broke one of the
grease nipples, and am having a hard time finding the right size to replace it
with. Any that I have so far obtained locally, as well as the one that Moss
lists in their catalog have the wrong thread. The original grease fittings
don't fit. I'm guess it must be a metric thread of some sort. Any ideas where
I can get the right one, or even what the thread is, so that I can ask for it
properly?
2) I spent some time on Thanksgiving day trying to reinstall the wiper
components. Even though nothing structurally has changed, the cable cover
between the motor and the first box seems to be too long. Simply changing the
bend doesn't seem to help. Any ideas of what might be wrong or how to fix it?
I don't want to just cut the cover since it has a flared end.
Thanks,
Peter
63 BJ7
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From "Martin Gschwend" <gschwend at justice.com>
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2002 09:47:52 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Wiper/grease fitting
The cooler of my MK III was restored and when they did
so, they removed the brass badge on the upper area of
the front side.
Unfortunately they did so with 3 coolers and now nobody
knows which is the correct badge for which cooler as
there are 2 different types.
One has the number AHB 8946
The other has the number 11B2301
To see what I mean watch http://195.58.186.40/healey/
Could anyone of you check at your MK III4s what the
badge says? I have the number HBJ8L25321 so mine is a
Phase 1 and It would be good if the chassisnumber of
the reference-car is as close as possible.
But I am glad for any information concerning this
matter.
If you want to see the restoration going on watch
www.gschwend.at and click the blue info man to see the
Healeyweb.
_________________________________________________
FindLaw - Free Case Law, Jobs, Library, Community
http://www.FindLaw.com
Get your FREE @JUSTICE.COM email!
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2002 13:06:33 EST
Subject: Re: hypothetical question
<< after car
is done is it still a salvage car or a nice bj7 that has been partially
restored. this is not a hypothetical situation but a real life sitiuation. >>
Once a car is a salvage car, it is always a salvage car. It seems to me
incumbent on the seller to divulge this information to a potential buyer.
However, the seller should also be prepared to explain (and document to the
extent possible) the reason why the car was declared salvage. As noted, in
some instances the nature of the original damage might have been totally
non-structural, in which case if the replacement panel work, interior work,
etc. was done well the buyer may choose to ignore it and just evaluate the
car as a whole.
On the other hand, if the damage was such that the car had to be sectioned,
or get a donor frame, then the buyer will know that, and will know to look
very carefully at alignment, straight frame braces, etc. with no risk that
he's buying a car that is going to be unsafe to drive.
Either way, the point is that the buyer deserves to have all the information
the seller can give so that he can make a completely informed decision. The
fact that a car has been salvaged is not necessarily a major detriment to its
value, but the buyer should make that decision.
My .02 dollars
Cheers
Gary
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2002 13:09:29 -0500
Subject: Re:
The parts catalog shows that Part Number AHB 8946 radiator was used for all
BJ7s/BJ8s. That number on my BJ8 is stamped into a rectangle on top of the
radiator header tank just in front of the filler cap, and not on a "badge".
There are "badges" attached to the front side of my tank, with the following
information:
(in the front center of the tank)
COVENTRY RADIATOR
& PRESSWORK CO. LTD.
CANLEY WORKS, COVENTRY
Z L 9664
(Below and a bit to the passenger's side of the one above)
1099
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Martin Gschwend
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Cc: tfs@MITRE.ORG ; gt4dino@aol.com
Sent: Saturday, November 30, 2002 12:47 PM
Hello Steve, Alex, Skip and others,
The cooler of my MK III was restored and when they did
so, they removed the brass badge on the upper area of
the front side.
Unfortunately they did so with 3 coolers and now nobody
knows which is the correct badge for which cooler as
there are 2 different types.
One has the number AHB 8946
The other has the number 11B2301
To see what I mean watch http://195.58.186.40/healey/
Could anyone of you check at your MK III4s what the
badge says? I have the number HBJ8L25321 so mine is a
Phase 1 and It would be good if the chassisnumber of
the reference-car is as close as possible.
But I am glad for any information concerning this
matter.
If you want to see the restoration going on watch
www.gschwend.at and click the blue info man to see the
Healeyweb.
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From "Martin Gschwend" <gschwend at justice.com>
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2002 10:12:35 -0800 (PST)
Subject: brass badge on the cooler of MK III
The cooler of my MK III was restored and when they did
so, they removed the brass badge on the upper area of
the front side.
Unfortunately they did so with 3 coolers and now nobody
knows which is the correct badge for which cooler as
there are 2 different types.
One has the number AHB 8946
The other has the number 11B2301
To see what I mean watch http://195.58.186.40/healey/
Could anyone of you check at your MK III4s what the
badge says? I have the number HBJ8L25321 so mine is a
Phase 1 and It would be good if the chassisnumber of
the reference-car is as close as possible.
But I am glad for any information concerning this
matter.
If you want to see the restoration going on watch
www.gschwend.at and click the blue info man to see the
Healeyweb.
_________________________________________________
FindLaw - Free Case Law, Jobs, Library, Community
http://www.FindLaw.com
Get your FREE @JUSTICE.COM email!
http://mail.Justice.com
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2002 13:15:36 EST
Subject: Re: Choke cable again
<< Hmm, well, I'm remembering that this car was an electric choke car when I
bought it 8 years ago. In the course of redoing the car, I replaced the
dash panel with another used one as the original was a bit hacked up with
extra switches and indicator lamps. This dash panel does have a hole above
where the heater controls are installed. Its a couple of inches to the
right of the ignition switch. about one inch to the right and below the
center dash securing screw. The original Austin Healey book is showing a
right hooker, so, everything is reversed AND, they mention that only later
MK1s had it on the dash. >>
Don't worry about the underdash choke fitting. It probably isn't accurate for
your car anyhow (though I doubt that an electric-choke car should originally
have been titled a 1961). And what are you going to do with that empty hole
in the dash?
I would simply put the choke cable into the hole in the dash. It would be corr
ect for any Healey after about HBT7 6000 (the electric choke was replaced by
the dash-fitted choke, according to the Service Parts List, at C.5236. If you
don't have a factory Service Parts List, just check the Moss catalog parts
diagram. It should show all relevant pieces associated with fitting the choke
to the dash.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
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From "Norman Cay" <normcay at earthlink.net>
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2002 10:23:21 -0800
Subject: jag out - healey in
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From "Barry Fahlstedt" <barf at olypen.com>
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2002 11:02:16 -0800
Subject: Radiator cap for BJ7
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2002 13:56:31 -0500
Subject: BN6 handbooks
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
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from some of the opinions on this list probably 50 % of the surviving Healeys
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2002 14:34:25 EST
Subject: Re: Hypothetical question
Mal Bruce
Mal Bruce
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From HealeyHundred at aol.com
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2002 14:47:29 EST
Subject: Chemistry or Politics...
These 312 particles are held together by forces called morons, which are
surrounded by vast quantities of lepton-like particles called peons.
Since governmentium has no electrons, it is inert. However, it can be
detected as it impedes every reaction with which it comes into contact.
A minute amount of governmentium causes one reaction to take over 4 days
to complete when it would normally take less than a second.
Governmentium has a normal half-life of 3 years; it does not decay, but
instead undergoes a reorganization in which a portion of the assistant
neutrons and deputy neutrons excha nge places. In fact, governmentium's mass
will actually increase over time, since each reorganization causes some
morons to become neutrons, forming isodopes.
This characteristic of moron-promotion leads some scientists to speculate
that governmentium is formed whenever morons reach a certain quantity in
concentration. This hypothetic al quantity is referred to as "Critical
Morass". You will know it when you see it.
Happy Thanksgiving
Richard
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2002 13:52:11 -0600
Subject: Re: Radiator cap for BJ7
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2002 14:55:07 EST
Subject: Re: Transmission cover carpet Q's (centershift)
<< Unsatisfied with the fit of my (new) transmission cover, I ordered an
other one from a different source. Now I am confused. The first kit
had a tranny cover carpet that went all the way from the firewall the
the rear seat, which seemed to make sense, since the arm rest needs
to be sewn to it.
Now the new carpet only covers the tranny carpet (it stops a few
inches past the ashtray. It looks like I would have to glue an extra
piece of carpet covering just the drive shaft cover, and sew the arm
rest ACCROSS the tranny carpet (incl. the edging) and the rear
carpet! >>
My guess is that the second tranny tunnel cover sent you was for a BN1/BN2
when your reference to a sewn-on armrest suggests you have a BN7/BT7.
Check with your supplier.
Cheers
Gary
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From "Cory LeBlanc" <cleblanc at midsouth.rr.com>
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2002 14:02:51 -0600
Subject: Re: 100 M issue
For anybody restoring a car, especially an M, be careful not to remove the
bonnet body numbers or fill them with excessive paint. Buyers want to see
them.
Upon close inspection one finds that the serial numbers are really hard to
duplicate.
Best Regards,
Jim LeBlanc
1956 100-M
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <jrhill@chorus.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2002 11:38 AM
Subject: Re: 100 M issue
> In a message dated 11/26/02 5:01:42 AM, jrhill@chorus.net writes:
>
> << It was my understanding that the first cars sold as100M models were
> assembled at Austin as standard cars and sent to the DHMC at Warwick for
> modification. As part of the work done at the DHMC, the bonnets were sent
> back to body-maker Jensen to be louvered. There are apparently no factory
> records of which (or how many)100M's were produced in this way.
>
> Later on, arrangements were made to have the louvering done before Jensen
> shipped the car bodies to Austin. These later cars are the 640 that have
the
> louvered-bonnet notation on the Job Production Card. But the earlier cars
> would still be 100M's, although proving that a particular car belongs to
> this group would be rather more difficult >>
>
> Ah, but there you could be wrong in your understanding. Yes, you are quite
> correct in the sequence of operations with regard to BN1s that were
shipped
> from the factory with the LeMans modifications (hood was taken off at
Warwick
> and sent back to Jensen's for louvering) and BN2s that were shipped from
> factory with LeMans mods (the bodies were received at Longbridge with the
> louvered bonnets already installed).
> In fact, that is exactly the way we describe the process in our
restoration
> book.
>
> But in whether the BN1s should properly be referred to as "100Ms" the
> semantic thicket gets tangled. You see, I have never seen any original
> printed references that use the term "100M" which were published before
> October 1955 when the BN2s were introduced at the Earls Court London Motor
> Show. If no one at the time of their modification referred to the BN1s
> converted before October 1955 as 100Ms, then I argue it is incorrect for
us
> to do so now.
>
> Unless someone can show a printed reference, from BMC (either dealer memos
or
> advertising literature) or from Donald Healey Motor Works, or from the
> motoring press of that period, that uses the term "100M" to refer to the
> factory-converted BN1s, which was published and dated before October 1955,
> then it is not correct now refer to those models with that term. We know
that
> the BN2s with LeMans mods introduced at the Motor Show were referred to in
> the literature as "100Ms"
>
> But, before everyone gets huffy about how it doesn't matter, I would
> generally agree, at least regarding value - If someone has a
> factory/Warwick-converted BN1 and has the paperwork to prove that, then
> they've got a car which is probably as desirable as a documented BN2 100M.
> It's just that unless there's some documentation to prove that such cars
were
> referred to in period as 100Ms, then they can't be referred to as such
now.
>
> But I would be happy to see any documentation dated prior to October 1955
> that uses the term "100M."
>
> Cheers
> Gary
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2002 12:27:24 -0800
Subject: For Michael Salter (delete)
My emails to you are bouncing ... please hold one solenoid for me
while we resolve the comm problem.
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
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From Joseph Smathers <healey27 at mindspring.com>
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2002 16:21:18 -0500
Subject: Re: jag out - healey in
Don't give up yet. I have two ( 2 ) Healey's in a one ( 1 ) car garage. A
55 100 and a 60 3000. One car is easily backed in and out. To get the
other out, I must first move the other Healey and do some hard turning.
Best regards, Joe
At 01:23 PM 11/30/2002, you wrote:
>Sorry to hit the list with this but I need garage space this winter for my
>needy BN2 (and the BN1 of course). With only a 2 car garage, the 1964 3.8 Jag
>MKII must go. $6500 If anyone is interested please contact me off the list for
>more details.
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From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2002 16:32:58 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: brass badge on the cooler of MK III
--- Martin Gschwend <gschwend@justice.com> wrote: << Hello Steve,
Alex, Skip and others, The cooler of my MK III was restored and when
they did so, they removed the brass badge on the upper area of the
front side. ........ If you want to see the restoration going on
watch
www.gschwend.at and click the blue info man to see the Healeyweb. >>
=====
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
______________________________________________________________________
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
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From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2002 17:51:05 -0500
Subject: RE: jag out - healey in
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Norman Cay
Sent: Saturday, November 30, 2002 1:23 PM
To: healeys
Subject: jag out - healey in
Sorry to hit the list with this but I need garage space this winter for my
needy BN2 (and the BN1 of course). With only a 2 car garage, the 1964 3.8
Jag
MKII must go. $6500 If anyone is interested please contact me off the list
for
more details.
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From SERVICAR1 at cs.com
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2002 18:23:59 EST
Subject: Re: Wiper/grease fitting
Lanny
59BT7
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From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2002 17:54:36 -0600
Subject: rear sheetmetal replacement....other horror stories
Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
63 BJ-7
Sturgeon Bay, WI.
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2002 19:48:08 EST
Subject: Re: Choke cable again
<< My 1960 BT7 has electronic choke (thermo carb) chassis 3213 >>
As well it should.
What I said was that the change point from the electric choke to the manual
choke was at about 5260. 3213 is before 5260 so your car SHOULD have an
electic choke according to the services parts list.
Cheers
Gary
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Sun, 1 Dec 2002 12:25:24 +1100
Subject: Martin's website - a tip for 'English only' readers/ radiator
For other english only language people (like me) - try this
http://babelfish.altavista.com
Then put the full URL (web address)
http://www.gschwend.at/Healeyweb/Healeymainpage.htm into the translation
area - select the translation (in this case - German to English) - then off
you go - the whole website will now be in english!
Its not perfect - but I have a much better chance of understanding broken
English than German!
My BJ8 Phase II ( H-BJ8/37244) radiator has the plate AHB8946 - right in
front of the filler, on the top of the header tank. The Mechanical Service
parts list for series BJ7 and BJ8 (AKD3523) also says a BJ8 radiator is part
number AHB8946 (on page MC2)
Best regards
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "Martin Gschwend" <gschwend@justice.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 01, 2002 8:32 AM
Subject: Re: brass badge on the cooler of MK III
> Martin; I can't help you with your radiator / cooler brass badge [my 2
> cars are Mk I and II] but I did take a look at your restoration -
> fantastic. While I could not read the notes [unfortunately, I only
> speak English] your web site layout is very good and the pictures tell
> almost the whole story. Well done.
> --Scott Morris [62 BT7 tricarb-driver; 60 BN7-project]
> Simcoe, Ontario, Canada
>
> --- Martin Gschwend <gschwend@justice.com> wrote: << Hello Steve,
> Alex, Skip and others, The cooler of my MK III was restored and when
> they did so, they removed the brass badge on the upper area of the
> front side. ........ If you want to see the restoration going on
> watch
> www.gschwend.at and click the blue info man to see the Healeyweb. >>
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2002 21:09:24 EST
Subject: Re: BJ8 Tach problems with Pertronix
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at <A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Healey International 2002</A>
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From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2002 20:39:01 -0600
Subject: Re: BJ8 Tach problems with Pertronix
This is quite interesting. Where is the problem within the Smiths tachometer
circuit? Does it show immediately?
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
HLYDOC@aol.com wrote:
> This is common when you install a electronic ignition system to a BJ8. The
> electronics in the tach will need to be modified to suit the ignition system.
>
> Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
> can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
> message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
>
> David Nock
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2002 21:48:44 EST
Subject: Re: BJ8 Tach problems with Pertronix
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at <A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Healey International 2002</A>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jonathan and Carole Quandt <fourqz at earthlink.net>
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2002 19:44:16 -0800
Subject: rocker shaft inspection--100-4
thanks to all for all the help
Jonathan Quandt
Northern California
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2002 20:49:42 -0800
Subject: Porshe for Sale No Healey Content
'89 SPEEDSTER. 6,800 miles!!
Exactly as new. White/Black Leather A/C
(NOT RONS) $55,000
call Debi @ 310.823.3028
please forward this on to anyone that you know that might be interested in
this car. jpegs available.
Thanks
Ron R
F. Ronald Rader, SIOR
The Klabin Company / CORFAC International
6601 Center Drive West, #300
Los Angeles, CA 90045
(310) 337-7000, ext. 111
rader@klabin.com
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From MeditionM at netscape.net
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Sun, 01 Dec 2002 00:07:21 -0500
Subject: RE: Wiper/grease fitting
"Peter Conover" <pconover@attbi.com> wrote:
>Hello all,
>
>As I get closer to getting my BJ7 restoration on the road this coming spring,
>I realize that I'll probably run into lots of situations like the following:
>
>1) Last winter, I replaced the king pins using the kit manufactured in the UK
>by QH [Quinton Hazell], supplied by Moss at that time (I believe they have
>changed since then). During the course of installation, I broke one of the
>grease nipples, and am having a hard time finding the right size to replace it
>with. Any that I have so far obtained locally, as well as the one that Moss
>lists in their catalog have the wrong thread. The original grease fittings
>don't fit. I'm guess it must be a metric thread of some sort. Any ideas where
>I can get the right one, or even what the thread is, so that I can ask for it
>properly?
>
>2) I spent some time on Thanksgiving day trying to reinstall the wiper
>components. Even though nothing structurally has changed, the cable cover
>between the motor and the first box seems to be too long. Simply changing the
>bend doesn't seem to help. Any ideas of what might be wrong or how to fix it?
>I don't want to just cut the cover since it has a flared end.
>Thanks,
>
>Peter
>63 BJ7
>
__________________________________________________________________
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From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: "George Brannon, Sr." <gbrannon@southernescrow.com>
To: "Bill Abbott" <babbott@abbott-resorts.com>, "George T. Brannon Jr."
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2002 21:32:00 -0800
Subject: Re: BJ8 Tach problems with Pertronix
Knock on (my) wood (dash).
(The Other) (Uncommon) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
----- Original Message -----
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
> This is common when you install a electronic ignition system to a BJ8. The
electronics in the tach will need to be modified to suit the ignition
system.
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