Thanks Mike
The first listed is a 3.90 (owner says it is rare ???)
But the 2nd listing is a 3.54 Complete Axle which owner claims was taken out of
a '60 BT7 and been stored for 30 years. His reserve is $400.
DickB
---- you wrote:
>
> Folks,
>
> Just noticed 2 guys selling non-overdrive rear ends on Ebay. One
>starts
> at $400, and the other at $500. I have nothing to do with either seller,
> just passing info...
>
> Mike B
> 59 BT7
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=397389464
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=397102845
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 03:18:23 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Appraiser needed ASAP
You couldn't find a better Appraiser than Rich Chrysler and he lives in the
Toronto area.
The best part is he charges in Canadian Dollars <G>
DickB
---- you wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 7/31/00 2:14:16 PM, leavcast@infomagic.com writes:
>
> <<
> Any help with an auto transport company that can handle customs will
> appreciated also. >>
>
> Don't know about appraisers in Canada, but I strongly recommend Cosdell in
> San Francisco for your customs and shipping. Don't have their current number,
> but information should. They take care of all paperwork and can also arrange
> the shipping. Ask for Martin Button there and tell him I suggested them.
>
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 03:20:45 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Appraiser needed ASAP
Whoops, make that Rich Chrysler AND Mike Salter (who lives IN Toronto).
And BOTH charge in $Can.
DickB
---- you wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 7/31/00 2:14:16 PM, leavcast@infomagic.com writes:
>
> <<
> Any help with an auto transport company that can handle customs will
> appreciated also. >>
>
> Don't know about appraisers in Canada, but I strongly recommend Cosdell in
> San Francisco for your customs and shipping. Don't have their current number,
> but information should. They take care of all paperwork and can also arrange
> the shipping. Ask for Martin Button there and tell him I suggested them.
>
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 00:23:52 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Flash or no Flash
On Mon, 31 Jul 2000 14:47:23 EDT, Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
>>>> In a message dated 7/31/00 2:06:19 AM, AHCUSA@excite.com writes:
Therefore it is no surprise that an early 3000 would not have a 3000 flash
on the boot lid. In fact, it almost undoubtedly had a 100-6 badge fitted to
the grill, but in the individual case if your car that 100-6 badge was
probably replaced with the "correct" 3000 flash at some point in the past.
<<<<
>> And you base this conjecture on what? <<
Well, since you asked so nicely... It's based on many years of experience,
observation, talking with people, looking at their cars, that sort of thing.
Really it's common knowledge... at least among us old timers ;-)
>> So far, we have gotten several reports of early production 3000s with no
3000 flash on the boot lid, but none of these folks have reported that they
had a 100/6 flash on the front grille. <<
Well, that's simply because it wasn't the question. It's no surprise that
no one mentioned it -- it was not what we were talking about. We were
talking about boot lids, not grilles. I added a related element to the
discussion. :-)
>> I've certainly never seen one. <<
Maybe you don't get out enough. ;-)
>> If anyone out there does have a very early 3000 that has a 100-6 flash on
the grille, I'd be interested in hearing about it. <<
OK. Austin-Healey Magazine Editor Greg Kaufman has one, for one. And Ed
Kaler, Healey Man of Long Experience and Suffering, can also confirm what
I'm saying.
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
Editor Emeritus, Healey Highlights
Founding Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
Editor, This E-Mail Message ;-)
_______________________________________________________
Say Bye to Slow Internet!
http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html
From HealeyHey at aol.com
Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 03:33:50 EDT
Subject: Re: Burt Reynolds in a Healey?
I was watching a terrible movie the other night at about 3 or 4 in the
morning. I think it was called Operation CIA or something with CIA in the
title. At any rate, it stars Burt Reynolds - old B&W from the early 60's -
Burt even is sporting his own hair! At any rate, it's a pretty forgetable
movie except for the sight of a two tone Healey! There must be at least 3 to
4 minutes of footage - Wow!!! I guess when your wife puts your @$$ out on
the couch for the night, it ain't so bad after all. If anyone knows about
this movie - how does it end? I lost interest after the the car scene was
over.
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 02:41:56 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: 100 and 100-6 Parts
I wonder if some of you could please advise me if any of the following
mostly NOS parts are in demand (i.e., rare, out-of-stock, never-reproduced,
etc.). Some of you in the service and parts business may know this off the
top of your head. Will appreciate any advice:
-Early BN1 boot badge 'Austin of England'.
-Front wheel cylinders (7/8" bore) #7H4643,4 fitting BN1 from C.E. 221404.
-BN1/BN2 master cylinder 1B8927.
-Swivel axles w/bushes for BN1 or BN2 (no part # stamped on any of six
parts, but believe they all have same thread, UNF, making them either 1G4351
or 1B4448).
-100-4 engine block (low mileage/excellent used condition).
-100-4 pistons & rods (real clean, little wear on bearings).
-100-4 camshaft (out of same low mileage motor).
-100-4 NOS oil pump assembly less spindle shaft.
-BN1 three-speed sideshift complete, w/1B3693 Lay Gear, serial #9000 range.
-BN2 4-speed sideshift complete.
-BN1 three-speed shift lever (NOS).
-BN2 four-speed tranny gears and bushings.
-BN2 four-speed tranny shifter control lever.
-100-6 Grille.
-100-6 Radiator.
-Six-port cylinder head (w/valves, springs & retainers).
-Six-port intake manifold.
-Two-port BN4 exhaust manifold (rear)- early version.
-Six-port exhaust manifolds (pair).
-100-6 water pump shaft and impeller vane (AEC609).
Thanks in advance.
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
_______________________________________________________
Say Bye to Slow Internet!
http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 06:10:04 EDT
Subject: Derivation of "SU Carbs" name
--part1_c8.85612b4.26b7fbfc_boundary
I received the following from a non-Healey related but nevertheless
reliable source and thought that everyone should have this arcane bit of
information:
<< "At the turn of the century, an enlightened member of the leather workers
union in England foresaw the decline in the industry that the Industrial
Revolution was bringing about. George Skinner sought to design a product
that would be in demand in the new Industrial Age. As there was a great deal
of excitement in England associated with the automobile, George decided to
enter that field, producing a carburetor that made use of a leather
diaphragm. The leather diaphragm controlled the rising and falling of the
piston; this new carburetor raised the standard of flexibility and economy
to new levels.
George Skinner patented the SU design in 1905. In 1910, with the help of his
brothers, George started the SU Carburetor Company, located in London. SU,
which stands for Skinner's Union, came from the family's name. This company
was bought by various British motor companies in the following years,
finally coming under the expansive wing of the British Leyland empire. The
SU Carburetor Company is no longer in business, however BTR Engineering in
Australia has acquired the patents and plans, and is currently producing
carburetors and parts."
>>
--part1_c8.85612b4.26b7fbfc_boundary
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Date: Tue, 01 Aug 2000 00:19:23 -0400
Subject: Re: 12 July 2000 PVFCC Meeting Minutes
From: Charlie Carroll <fssntuff@us.hsanet.net>
To: "Merch, Doug L (Dyncorp)" <MerchDL@navair.navy.mil>,
"'tourv@erols.com'" <tourv@erols.com>, <dharris@us.hsanet.net>,
"Bill McKissick, Sr." <bill@cbl.umces.edu>,
Bruce & Cheryl Swartz <bswartz@us.hsanet.net>,
Glenn Minucci <gminucci@paxr.veridian.com>,
Larry Schadegg <sch109@prb.net>, Peter Bratic <pbratic@olg.com>,
Peter Egeli <pegeli@us.hsanet.net>, Robert Gagner <kota@olg.com>,
Ross Haines <hainesross@erols.com>,
"Roy Hart, Jr." <theharts25@hotmail.com>, <Orbittor@aol.com>,
<Awgertoo@aol.com>
Message-ID: <B5ABC80B.AF0%fssntuff@us.hsanet.net>
In-Reply-To: <E064CE051B3DD311A9460000F81AFCEF3671DB@nems03.navair.navy.mil>
Mime-version: 1.0
X-Mailer: Unknown
Doug and all,
I found this blurb, it should help out with this question:
"At the turn of the century, an enlightened member of the leather workers
union in England foresaw the decline in the industry that the Industrial
Revolution was bringing about. George Skinner sought to design a product
that would be in demand in the new Industrial Age. As there was a great deal
of excitement in England associated with the automobile, George decided to
enter that field, producing a carburetor that made use of a leather
diaphragm. The leather diaphragm controlled the rising and falling of the
piston; this new carburetor raised the standard of flexibility and economy
to new levels.
George Skinner patented the SU design in 1905. In 1910, with the help of his
brothers, George started the SU Carburetor Company, located in London. SU,
which stands for Skinner's Union, came from the family's name. This company
was bought by various British motor companies in the following years,
finally coming under the expansive wing of the British Leyland empire. The
SU Carburetor Company is no longer in business, however BTR Engineering in
Australia has acquired the patents and plans, and is currently producing
carburetors and parts."
. . . and that is probably more than what you wanted!
Charlie Carroll
23187 Oak Tree Court
California, Maryland USA
20619
1977 Spitfire (on the road!)
1973 Stag (in Restoration!)
on 7/31/00 3:04 PM, Merch, Doug L (Dyncorp) at MerchDL@navair.navy.mil
wrote:
> What does SU, as in SU carburettors stand for?
> R/Doug Merch
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tourv@erols.com [mailto:tourv@erols.com]
> Sent: Thursday, July 27, 2000 8:31 PM
> To: dharris@us.hsanet.net; Bill McKissick, Sr.; Bruce & Cheryl Swartz;
> Charlie Carroll; Doug Merch; Glenn Minucci; Larry Schadegg; Peter
> Bratic; Peter Egeli; Robert Gagner; Ross Haines; Roy Hart, Jr.;
> Orbittor@aol.com; Awgertoo@aol.com
> Subject: 12 July 2000 PVFCC Meeting Minutes
>
>
> PVFCC Members and friends:
>
> Attached in Word are the Minutes from the last meeting (12 July). I
> hope to see you all at Cafe Des Artistes at 7PM on 9 Aug 2000. Please
> feed me your inputs to the Member Resources and Auto Sources
> attachments.
>
> Special thanks to Regina for taking the minutes in my absence (I was
> away at school), and apologies for once again getting them out so darn
> late!!
>
> Cheers,
> --Bob Tourville
> Secretary, PVFCC
--part1_c8.85612b4.26b7fbfc_boundary--
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 06:48:44 EDT
Subject: Re: Flash or no Flash
Maybe the horn button doesn't represent the 100/6, but a six cylinder engine.
'Rudy Streng
From njones at amadeus.net
Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 12:55:01 +0100
Subject: Reply: Derivation of "SU Carbs" name
The SU name and carburettors,pumps, you name it are now owned by Burlen Fuel
Systems in England.
They manufacture and restore every SU carburettor/fuel pump ever made.
Their carb restoration with polished tops are second to none..
They also convert from +ve earth to - earth all fuel pumps as well as
manufacturing an electronic conversion kit known
as the 'pointless' conversion again for either +/- earth cars.
The correct fuel pump for Healeys (+earth) is AZX 1319 (standard replacement for
AUF 301 etc) high pressure 3.8psi.
This pump was also originally standard for Jags.
I've just had mine converted to the pointless type...starts up first time every
time..
Most people probably know this already...common knowledge..nuff said...
Usual disclaimers apply..just very happy ..!
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Tue, 01 Aug 2000 07:06:42 -0400
Subject: Re: Appraiser needed ASAP
I don't think I would recommend Mike Salter for this particular job.....He is
the
vendor ;-)
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
dickb@cheerful.com wrote:
> Whoops, make that Rich Chrysler AND Mike Salter (who lives IN Toronto).
>
> And BOTH charge in $Can.
>
> DickB
>
> ---- you wrote:
> >
> >
> > In a message dated 7/31/00 2:14:16 PM, leavcast@infomagic.com writes:
> >
> > <<
> > Any help with an auto transport company that can handle customs will
> > appreciated also. >>
> >
> > Don't know about appraisers in Canada, but I strongly recommend Cosdell in
> > San Francisco for your customs and shipping. Don't have their current
>number,
> > but information should. They take care of all paperwork and can also
>arrange
> > the shipping. Ask for Martin Button there and tell him I suggested them.
> >
> > Cheers
> > Gary Anderson
> >
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
From Ed Santoro <esantoro at drbc.state.nj.us>
Date: Tue, 01 Aug 2000 10:31:46 -0700
Subject: OOPS!!!
Dear Healey List Members: Over the last 24 hours I had a "Microsoft
Moment" and somehow iadvertently lost my emails from my inbox before
opening them. If you contacted me and I did not previously respond,
please resend me your email. I apologize for the aggrivation. Sign me
"Mouse challenged in New Jersey"
From LarryRPH at aol.com
Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 11:22:39 EDT
Subject: Clutch Pedal Extender
Does anytone know the name/telephone/address/ etc of the vendor who was at
Conclave selling a device to attach to the clutch pedal that makes it
easier for short leggers to reach?
Please reply to me at : larryrph@aol.com
Larry Wysocki
BN 6
BJ 7
From "Jeff Brantley" <jbrantley at redshift.com>
Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 08:28:16 -0700
Subject: Rental Trailers?
Can anyone help? I need to move two cars (non running) from Portland (OR)
area to the Monterey California. Is there anywhere I can rent a flatbed/ or
auto trailer? I'd like to pull them back myself if I can find a place to
rent a trailer. The cars are SMALL...overall length ~ 115" each. No, there
are not Healeys, but they will keep my BJ8 good company in the garage.
Thanks for any help. jb
-----Original Message-----
From: Editorgary@aol.com <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Monday, July 31, 2000 12:17 PM
Subject: Pacific Grove Concours Auto Rally
>
>For all those who asked for additional information on the "rolling
concours"
>during Monterey Historics weekend, here's the deal:
>
>12:30 to 5:00 - registration and staging of cars along Lighthouse Avenue in
>Pacific Grove for informal show. Open to any cars of special interest.
>6:15 Cars will be launched and proceed along route through Monterey, 17
mile
>drive, and Carmel and back to Chatauqua Hall in Pacific Grove
>7:00 Barbecue dinner
>Proceeds to benefit Pacific Grove Youth Action, Inc.
>
>Cost $45 (plus additional $15 if registering after Aug 2d) for car
>registration and driver's bbq dinner.
>$35 of each registration fee is tax deductible.
>$20 for additional adult dinners
>$10 for kids' dinners
>
>Registration information can be obtained at 831-647-6355 or pgcar@yahoo.com
>
>That's all the information I have on it. Any other questions, you'll have
to
>ask them.
>
>Hope to see some of you there.
>Cheers
>Gary Anderson
>Editor, British Car Magazine
>
From Louis Galper <lgalper1 at home.com>
Date: Tue, 01 Aug 2000 08:38:33 -0700
Subject: Healey 100 crankshaft
Does anyone have the correct size of the socket needed to remove the
crank pulley nut on the 4 cylinder engine?
Maybe a six-point 2 inch socket?
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 11:57:51 EDT
Subject: Heads-up on Healey Book
Just to let anyone who wants to get the new Healey book but hasn't yet
purchased it.
We got our first report from the publisher last week. Of the 3,000 that were
printed, they had already sold 2,181 as of July 15. That could mean that the
books may be out of stock within a month or two (They've only been on sale
since the beginning of June). There probably will be a second printing, but
I doubt if it will happen before the end of the year.
You can order them from British Car Magazine Book Shop (especially if you
still want a signed first edition), through the Austin-Healey Club USA
(slightly cheaper), or through Amazon.com (which may be the cheapest deal).
Thanks for your support.
p.s. Don't forget that we are still looking for corrections, additions, and
questions for the book and will be setting up an errata and concours
discussion web page within the next few weeks to alert readers to mistakes
in the book and add material. Send your notes, flames and questions to this
email address. If there is a second printing, we may be able to make some
small corrections, but the book won't be revised for a year or two. In the
meantime, the web page will give us a chance to correct errors and add new
material (such as an approximate change point for the addition of the boot
lid flash on the 3000s).
From Norman Cay <normcay at earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 01 Aug 2000 08:51:13 -0700
Subject: paint 2 piece dash
I believe that the original red BN-1's had the 2nd part of the 2 piece
dash (top part) painted black, I would appreciate correction if
appropriate, my question is whether the black was high gloss, low gloss,
or something else.
please advise, thanks very much,
norm BN-1, BN-2
From "Alan Schultz" <aschultz at uwsa.edu>
Date: Tue, 01 Aug 2000 12:12:31 -0500
Subject: Silicone Brake Fluid
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--------------C16854F455B61052C600BB5E
I am restoring a BJ8 and have installed complete new brake and clutch
systems. I had planned on using Silicone Brake Fluid but there seems to
be a lot of controversy over this versus Girling Fluid. Is there someone
out there that has tried silicone?
--------------C16854F455B61052C600BB5E
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n:Schultz;Alan
tel;fax:608-262-5316
tel;work:608-263-7332
x-mozilla-html:FALSE
org:UW System;Capital Planning & Budget
version:2.1
email;internet:aschultz@uwsa.edu
title:Senior Mechanical Engineer
adr;quoted-printable:;;780 Regent St.=0D=0AP.O. Box 8010;Madison;WI;53708;Dane
fn:Alan Schultz
end:vcard
--------------C16854F455B61052C600BB5E--
From John Trifari <john4 at home.com>
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 22:30:35 -0700
Subject: Re: Conclave 2000
Rons: I thought the Klan held Konklaves (or Konclaves). John Trifari
Just back from Conclave 2K in my BN1. Great job; nothing secret;
everything wide open to the public (I think some members of the public
walked into the Delegates' meet). My personal thanks to Jim Frakes and
his staff of volunteers.
rons wrote:
>
> Jim
> Okay, let's consult another source, the Oxford Englnish Dictionary. To those
> authors conclave means: 'Private, inner chamber, closeted.'
>
> The purpose of Bill Gates' much abridged MS Word Thesaurus, or any other
> thesaurus, is to provide synonyms. A synonym is not a definition. But even
> if one were to 'accept' such a notion, that a synonym is acceptable as a
> substitute for a definition, none of the Word thesaurus words connote the
> sense of secrecy implicit in 'inner chambers,' 'closeted' or 'privacy.'
>
> Therefore, I think 'conclave' signals a subtle but unmistakable difference
> from the intent of the event unless we are trying to keep Austin Healeys
> secret. To thinking people, it may even mean, 'You're not invited.'
>
> Another subtle but real world point, one that would concern me a great deal
> if I were presenting the name Conclave 2000 to an advertising client: the
> Klu Klux Klan holds conclaves. I, for one, do not want to go.
>
> What about Cutesy Pie? It may be argot, jargon or even 'silly talk but the
> one thing it is not is the name of an important event open to the public.
> Neither do I intend to publish the term anywhere else but in these brief
> messages where it will be read and understood by all my friends on the list.
>
> >From <Unsigned A. R.: (aka rons)>
>
> ----------
> >From: "JISah102" <ah102@home.com>
> >To: "rons" <arjayarjay@worldnet.att.net>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
> >Subject: Re: Conclave 2000
> >Date: Sat, Jul 29, 2000, 7:12 PM
> >
>
> >
> > To Unsigned A. R.: (aka rons)
> >
> > What is "Cutesy Pie" about "Conference, Parley, Congress, Gathering,
> > Meeting"...? ..These are the definitions in my MS word Thesaurus.
> >
> > Jim
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: rons <arjayarjay@worldnet.att.net>
> > To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Monday, August 27, 1956 5:37 PM
> > Subject: Re: Conclave 2000
> >
> >
> >>
> >> Not to be too curmudgeonly about it, but I've been reading about
> >> Conclave-this and Conclave-that for several weeks now. Did or does anyone
> >> realize that 'conclave' means 'secret?' Cutesy pie handling of the
> > language
> >> for cutesy pie sake still irritates me even though I spent 30 years in the
> >> ad biz.
> >>
> >> ----------
> >> >From: Lynn and Jean Neff <lynnneff@springnet1.com>
> >> >To: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
> >> >Subject: Conclave 2000
> >> >Date: Sat, Jul 29, 2000, 11:10 AM
> >> >
> >>
> >> >
> >> > Thanks to Jim Frakes and his hard working committee. This was our first
> >> > Conclave, and we thoroughly enjoyed it. Unfortunately, we had to return
> >> > home early on Wednesday.
> >> >
> >> > All of those great Healeys lining the brick street in Zionsville...what
> >> > a great sight!
> >> >
> >> > Next time the Gymkhana.
> >> >
> >> > Lynn BT7
> >> >
> >
From BGAHC at aol.com
Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 13:27:01 EDT
Subject: Re: Clutch Pedal Extender
I only saw two vendors on Monday but we spent the better part of the day at
the Gymkhana so I may have missed one. Eric Jones was at the top of the
parking lot with all the used/rebuilt parts. Eric is 740-363-2203 in
Delaware, OH.
On the side was Jeff Zorn of Little British Car Company. I don't have his web
site address but I'm sure someone can help with that. Used to be a guy from
the Dayton Club who sold them so you may try Charlie Warner, he would know
who it is.
I made mine using some steel flat bar stock that was 1/4 thick by about 1
1/4" wide as I remember. About $4 at the hardware store. I have also seen
them for sale in aluminum but I'm not comfortable with aluminum brake pedal
hardware. Easy enough to do. Unbolt the pedal from the arm and trace the
location of the holes on a piece of cardboard. The extender bracket requires
a slight radius inside the pedal. About 3/4 to a one inch extension seems
average. Drill the holes before you cut the metal to size, makes it easier to
hold onto. One pedal is bolted to the side of the arm, the other straddles
the arm. If your pedals seem to close for comfort check the pedal placement,
I have seen cars where they went together wrong and the brake and clutch
pedals were too close.
Might be a nice product for a list member to sell who has more efficient
production methods than air cutoff tools and an ancient drill press.
Jim Werner
> Does anyone know the name/telephone/address/ etc. of the vendor who was at
> Conclave selling a device to attach to the clutch pedal that makes it
> easier for short leggers to reach?
> Please reply to me at : larryrph@aol.com
> Larry Wysocki
> BN 6
> BJ 7
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
1957 BN4 Rally Car
1966 BJ8
From Ed Santoro <esantoro at drbc.state.nj.us>
Date: Tue, 01 Aug 2000 13:34:21 -0700
Subject: Re: paint 2 piece dash
Norm: The very early dashes were two piece. I don't know if it had
anything to do with a red car color Mine is Black molded plastic or
Bakelite. The color is a dull black....like a semi gloss. It did not look
like it was painted. I hope this helps. EDS
Norman Cay wrote:
> I believe that the original red BN-1's had the 2nd part of the 2 piece
> dash (top part) painted black, I would appreciate correction if
> appropriate, my question is whether the black was high gloss, low gloss,
> or something else.
> please advise, thanks very much,
> norm BN-1, BN-2
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 11:43:57 -0600
Subject: Re: Silicone Brake Fluidboundary="------------C16854F455B61052C600BB5E"
Alan, sorry but...AHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
59 AH :{) 54 BN1
Click below for webpage and mopeds:
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Schultz" <aschultz@uwsa.edu>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2000 11:12 AM
Subject: Silicone Brake Fluidboundary="------------C16854F455B61052C600BB5E"
>
> This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
> --------------C16854F455B61052C600BB5E
>
> I am restoring a BJ8 and have installed complete new brake and clutch
> systems. I had planned on using Silicone Brake Fluid but there seems to
> be a lot of controversy over this versus Girling Fluid. Is there someone
> out there that has tried silicone?
>
> --------------C16854F455B61052C600BB5E
> name="aschultz.vcf"
> Content-Description: Card for Alan Schultz
> Content-Disposition: attachment;
> filename="aschultz.vcf"
>
> begin:vcard
> n:Schultz;Alan
> tel;fax:608-262-5316
> tel;work:608-263-7332
> x-mozilla-html:FALSE
> org:UW System;Capital Planning & Budget
> version:2.1
> email;internet:aschultz@uwsa.edu
> title:Senior Mechanical Engineer
> adr;quoted-printable:;;780 Regent St.=0D=0AP.O. Box
8010;Madison;WI;53708;Dane
> fn:Alan Schultz
> end:vcard
>
> --------------C16854F455B61052C600BB5E--
>
>
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 12:11:03 -0600
Subject: Re: Silicone Brake Fluidboundary="------------C16854F455B61052C600BB5E"
Alan,
I'm sorry, I just couldn't contain myself for a moment. You're correct
about the controversy.
You might visit with Chris at Foreign Car Specialists there in Madison.
I'm sure he'll steer you in the right direction, er,choice.
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
59 AH :{) 54 BN1
Click below for webpage and mopeds:
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Schultz" <aschultz@uwsa.edu>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2000 11:12 AM
Subject: Silicone Brake Fluidboundary="------------C16854F455B61052C600BB5E"
>
> This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
> --------------C16854F455B61052C600BB5E
>
> I am restoring a BJ8 and have installed complete new brake and clutch
> systems. I had planned on using Silicone Brake Fluid but there seems to
> be a lot of controversy over this versus Girling Fluid. Is there someone
> out there that has tried silicone?
>
> --------------C16854F455B61052C600BB5E
> name="aschultz.vcf"
> Content-Description: Card for Alan Schultz
> Content-Disposition: attachment;
> filename="aschultz.vcf"
>
> begin:vcard
> n:Schultz;Alan
> tel;fax:608-262-5316
> tel;work:608-263-7332
> x-mozilla-html:FALSE
> org:UW System;Capital Planning & Budget
> version:2.1
> email;internet:aschultz@uwsa.edu
> title:Senior Mechanical Engineer
> adr;quoted-printable:;;780 Regent St.=0D=0AP.O. Box
8010;Madison;WI;53708;Dane
> fn:Alan Schultz
> end:vcard
>
> --------------C16854F455B61052C600BB5E--
>
>
From Ward Stebner <liason at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Tue, 01 Aug 2000 11:56:40 -0600
Subject: Re:Silicone Fluid(funny-hopefully)
Alan Schultz wrote:
>
> I am restoring a BJ8 and have installed complete new brake and clutch
> systems. I had planned on using Silicone Brake Fluid but there seems to
> be a lot of controversy over this versus Girling Fluid. Is there someone
> out there that has tried silicone?
>
Sorry if this offends anyone!!!!
I think Pam Anderson Lee tried silocone and even she has gone back to
the more traditional "pedal feel" associated with historically correct
materials. Sometimes biases are based on knowledge and some on rumors.
Silicone is rumored by some Healey owners to make seals leak. It is also
blamed for problems associated with breast implants leaking.
If dot 4 was good enough to stop my car in 1956 it is good enough for
me. As an aside, I think that DMH probably used DOT4 to stop the cars he
ran at Bonneyville, UT.
Once again sorry if I offended anyone.
Ward Stebner
Saskatoon, SK
From Rebeltown at aol.com
Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 14:16:53 EDT
Subject: Re: Derivation of "SU Carbs" name
I'm glad you enlightened us with that bit of history, Just the other day I I
was wondering to myself what SU stood for, just in case someone asked me I
didn't want to look stupid. Gary S.
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Tue, 01 Aug 2000 14:20:50 -0400
Subject: Re: paint 2 piece dash
Norman Cay wrote:
> I believe that the original red BN-1's had the 2nd part of the 2 piece
> dash (top part) painted black, I would appreciate correction if
> appropriate, my question is whether the black was high gloss, low gloss,
> or something else.
> please advise, thanks very much,
> norm BN-1, BN-2
Hi Norm,
I have one used early dash panel in stock. It is an aluminium die casting as
far as I can tell. The outer surface is very smooth and painted with what I
would describe a "satin black."
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From "the real Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 15:06:24 -0400
Subject: fuses
Wayne,
I'd be glad to send you some Lucas fuses if you'll give me a shipping
address, but the lights are not on a fused circuit so a blown fuse is not
the problem. You might
check the dip switch wire where it connects to the main harness in the
center of
the firewall behind the valve cover. If the valve cover brushes against
this lead in
the course of R&R it can cause the problem you describe.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
>Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 23:02:51 -0400
>From: "Wayne Irons" <wayne@royal.net>
>Subject: Lucas fuses?
>Hey guys... I think I finally let the smoke out! Drove to church last week
>and realized after arrive that I had NO LIGHTS! I discovered that the fuses
>in my block are regular Buss fuses, and don't fit quite that well. And I'm
>sure I've read somewhere that substituting them is not a good idea because
>of the metallic differences. (Or maybe I'm dreaming that part).
>Anyway... who out there has Lucas fuses or a GOOD replacement? Most of the
>catalogs I have say simply "Fuses".
>Wayne
From "the real Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 15:15:30 -0400
Subject: valve guides
Russ,
The bronze valve guides using a manganese bronze alloy are the ones that
cause
seizing problems. I have never heard of seizing with the silicone bronze
alloy
guides. I can tell you that the bronze guides sold by Hemphill's and Denis
Welch
work fine. Can't vouch for other suppliers. Original steel guides will
work fine,
too.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
>Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2000 11:43:36 -0400
>From: "Russ & Natalie Bamsey" <ia549@worldchat.com>
>Subject: Re: Cam / valves
>Hello Peter and Listers;
>Thanks for the information on cam and lifters. I am about to start
>a full engine rebuild and will start with the head. I have heard that there
>are some owners that are having trouble with bronze valve guides seizing
the
>exhaust valve and bending the push rod. Is there any truth to this and if
>so should I use the iron guides only? Does anyone know if hardened valve
>seats from a popular North American car (ie Ford, Chev) can be used on the
>Healey head.
>Thanks...Russ Bamsey
From "the real Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 15:31:18 -0400
Subject: knocking noises
Tom,
Just to add a little to your very valid observation on loose things causing
strange
noises, a common problem on BJ8s is wallering out of the crank pulley keyway
and the keyway on the crank itself, due to the larger size and weight of the
harmonic balancer on MK III Healeys. This lets the pulley slop side-to-side
on
the end of the crank and makes a sound like a rod knock at idle. Good thing
you have a 100.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
>Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 11:08:03 -0500
>From: Tom Dugger <tdugger@ibm.net>
>Subject: Re: More on Borescopes & noise
>I have not been following this thread closely, but, would like to offer
this:
>Eight or ten years ago I had a S10 p/u. I got it at birth. It developed a
funny
>knocking around 75K miles. At least two very knowledgeable people advised
>me
>that there was something in the combustion chamber. I doubted this greatly,
>considering I had never put anything in there except air and gas.
>The knock was defined, intermittent, and worse when first cranked.
>I decided anything in the combustion chamber would be rhythmic and
>destructive.
>Cause: Loosened bolt which held on the torque converter; just enough to
allow
>for a hollow knock when rpm and demand conditions changed.
>I purpose, therefore, you consider pulleys, pumps, clutch pressure plate,
>etc....
>good luck,
>tom bn2
From "P.M. Pollock" <pollpete at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Tue, 01 Aug 2000 12:31:34 -0700
Subject: Names
Awhile back I triggered a little thread about car gender by
referring to my BJ7 as "he". Got me musing about car names and
wondering how many of us have named our beasts and, like me, are
given to talking to them.
When I got my car new in '63 I started referring to it as 'the
Austin" and over the years, as I learned the value of talking to
machinery, it became shortened to just "Austin", so that's his
name. Pretty prosaic but I figure that, like boats, it is apt to
be bad luck to rename your car (if only because there'd be a
while during which it wouldn't know you're talking to it and
would fail to follow your tender instructions). So he's "Austin"
and he's a "he", which is not to say other Healeys aren't
"shes". (How else would we get Sprites?)
What this is leading up to is a collected list of the various and
sundry car names, nicknames, etc. Here's what I have so far.
Except for the mundane lead they're all splendid. Anyone
interested send your info to be added.
Austin
BJ7
Pete Pollock (talker)
Chimera
BJ7
Bill Moyer
"Known as "Chimera" a lion in front, a goat behind the wheel
and a snake's tail draggin' the exhaust behind. Goat's aren't
too bright."
Erika the Red
100-Six
John Soderling
Old Red Devil
BN7
Don Yarber
Pandora
BJ8
Don Gschwind
From "the real Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 15:54:47 -0400
Subject: generator problems
Jim,
My answer to your brush question would be "sometimes." If you have new
brushes installed it is not necessary to carry spares, but a good idea to
have them
if you don't know how fresh your brushes are. One very common mistake is
over-tightening of the fan belt. This strains the front bearing and makes
the rear
bushing egg shaped, so that the armature can walk to the side and contact
the field coils. Once that happens you are S.O.L. A correctly tightened
belt will have at
least one inch of up and down play, and the fan blade should be able to be
easily
moved by hand. It is not necessary or desirable to tighten a generator belt
as tight as you would an alternator belt.
Incidently, the last two generators I have opened up to correct charging
problems
have not had bad brushes, but broken brush springs. And guess what -- Lucas
discontinued making them! So if you run across any NOS Lucas generator
brush
springs number 227542 snap them up and put them in your traveling kit.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
>Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 18:44:31 EDT
>From: BGAHC@aol.com
>Subject: generator/alternator - Another question
>A question for those with vast Healey Experience. I started thinking about
>this at Conclave because I had a voltmeter in my tool kit and was surprised
>that it was borrowed four separate times for generator related problems. It
>wasn't uncommon to find people carrying extra generators in their trunk.
>I do carry an extra set of generator brushes. How often will a
malfunctioning
>generator problem on the road be solved simply by replacing the brushes??
>Some of time, most of the time or what is your best guess?
>Thanks,
>Jim Werner
>Louisville, KY
>1957 BN4 Rally Car
>1966 BJ8
From Martin Johnson <MJohnson at cfworks.com>
Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 13:02:37 -0700
Subject: RE: Names
Jolly Roger, Sprytly's Big Brother
BN7
Martin Johnson
-----Original Message-----
From: P.M. Pollock [mailto:pollpete@ix.netcom.com]
Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2000 12:32 PM
To: Healey net
Subject: Names
Awhile back I triggered a little thread about car gender by
referring to my BJ7 as "he". Got me musing about car names and
wondering how many of us have named our beasts and, like me, are
given to talking to them.
When I got my car new in '63 I started referring to it as 'the
Austin" and over the years, as I learned the value of talking to
machinery, it became shortened to just "Austin", so that's his
name. Pretty prosaic but I figure that, like boats, it is apt to
be bad luck to rename your car (if only because there'd be a
while during which it wouldn't know you're talking to it and
would fail to follow your tender instructions). So he's "Austin"
and he's a "he", which is not to say other Healeys aren't
"shes". (How else would we get Sprites?)
What this is leading up to is a collected list of the various and
sundry car names, nicknames, etc. Here's what I have so far.
Except for the mundane lead they're all splendid. Anyone
interested send your info to be added.
Austin
BJ7
Pete Pollock (talker)
Chimera
BJ7
Bill Moyer
"Known as "Chimera" a lion in front, a goat behind the wheel
and a snake's tail draggin' the exhaust behind. Goat's aren't
too bright."
Erika the Red
100-Six
John Soderling
Old Red Devil
BN7
Don Yarber
Pandora
BJ8
Don Gschwind
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 16:25:09 -0400
Subject: Re: Names
O.K., Pete --
TARHEELY has spent his whole 34 years (7 owners) here in The Tar Heel
State.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666 TARHEELY
Havelock, NC USA
-----Original Message-----
From: P.M. Pollock <pollpete@ix.netcom.com>
To: Healey net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tuesday, August 01, 2000 3:50 PM
Subject: Names
>
>Awhile back I triggered a little thread about car gender by
>referring to my BJ7 as "he". Got me musing about car names and
>wondering how many of us have named our beasts and, like me, are
>given to talking to them.
>
>When I got my car new in '63 I started referring to it as 'the
>Austin" and over the years, as I learned the value of talking to
>machinery, it became shortened to just "Austin", so that's his
>name. Pretty prosaic but I figure that, like boats, it is apt to
>be bad luck to rename your car (if only because there'd be a
>while during which it wouldn't know you're talking to it and
>would fail to follow your tender instructions). So he's "Austin"
>and he's a "he", which is not to say other Healeys aren't
>"shes". (How else would we get Sprites?)
>
>What this is leading up to is a collected list of the various and
>sundry car names, nicknames, etc. Here's what I have so far.
>Except for the mundane lead they're all splendid. Anyone
>interested send your info to be added.
>
>
>Austin
>BJ7
>Pete Pollock (talker)
>
>Chimera
>BJ7
>Bill Moyer
>"Known as "Chimera" a lion in front, a goat behind the wheel
>and a snake's tail draggin' the exhaust behind. Goat's aren't
>too bright."
>
>Erika the Red
>100-Six
>John Soderling
>
>Old Red Devil
>BN7
>Don Yarber
>
>Pandora
>BJ8
>Don Gschwind
>
>
>
>
>
>
From howard young <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
Date: Tue, 01 Aug 2000 15:37:24 -0500
Subject: Re: Names
Agnes
BN1
Howard Lee Young,Jr.
Don't know why my Pop named her that when he bought her in 1960,mos'
pro'lly took t to the grave with him,unless it's in the article"A Love
Affair With Agnes" that he wrote for his SCCA Reg. newspaper "Rebel
Yell".I think i asked my Mom once and she didn't know.
But Agnes was known to her competition as "# 64 E.P. She also "showed
her ass" to more than one D.P.
>
From Ed Santoro <esantoro at drbc.state.nj.us>
Date: Tue, 01 Aug 2000 16:38:16 -0700
Subject: [Fwd: 61 OR 62 bIG HEALEY]
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--------------5E5E339556829CB5CB81D035
This is a resend of my earlier request, before I had problems with my
email. Thanks, EDS
--------------5E5E339556829CB5CB81D035
Content-Disposition: inline
X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000
Message-ID: <39861255.64A5292A@drbc.state.nj.us>
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 16:57:09 -0700
From: Ed Santoro <esantoro@drbc.state.nj.us>
X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.5 [en] (Win98; I)
X-Accept-Language: en,pdf
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: 61 OR 62 bIG HEALEY
I HAVE BEEN A SEMI- ACTIVE HEALEY LIST MEMBER FOR A LITTLE WHILE. I
Would like to enquire if anyone on the list has or knows of a Big Healey
61 or 62 "basket case' with a clear title. It does not have to have an
engine or drive train but if all of the body parts are there it would
help. I'm located in New Jersey. I have a trailer and can pick up if
not too far. Please contact me off the list. I'm not a vendor, this
is part of my "sickness" Thanks, EDS
--------------5E5E339556829CB5CB81D035--
From howard young <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
Date: Tue, 01 Aug 2000 15:41:15 -0500
Subject: Re: Names
Oh and the other Healeys here don't have names although the BN2 should be
called Bengt Frame........(bent frame)......and the BJ7..."Floorless" or
Rusty................HoYo
Steve Byers wrote:
> O.K., Pete --
> TARHEELY has spent his whole 34 years (7 owners) here in The Tar Heel
> State.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666 TARHEELY
> Havelock, NC USA
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: P.M. Pollock <pollpete@ix.netcom.com>
> To: Healey net <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: Tuesday, August 01, 2000 3:50 PM
> Subject: Names
>
> >
> >Awhile back I triggered a little thread about car gender by
> >referring to my BJ7 as "he". Got me musing about car names and
> >wondering how many of us have named our beasts and, like me, are
> >given to talking to them.
> >
> >When I got my car new in '63 I started referring to it as 'the
> >Austin" and over the years, as I learned the value of talking to
> >machinery, it became shortened to just "Austin", so that's his
> >name. Pretty prosaic but I figure that, like boats, it is apt to
> >be bad luck to rename your car (if only because there'd be a
> >while during which it wouldn't know you're talking to it and
> >would fail to follow your tender instructions). So he's "Austin"
> >and he's a "he", which is not to say other Healeys aren't
> >"shes". (How else would we get Sprites?)
> >
> >What this is leading up to is a collected list of the various and
> >sundry car names, nicknames, etc. Here's what I have so far.
> >Except for the mundane lead they're all splendid. Anyone
> >interested send your info to be added.
> >
> >
> >Austin
> >BJ7
> >Pete Pollock (talker)
> >
> >Chimera
> >BJ7
> >Bill Moyer
> >"Known as "Chimera" a lion in front, a goat behind the wheel
> >and a snake's tail draggin' the exhaust behind. Goat's aren't
> >too bright."
> >
> >Erika the Red
> >100-Six
> >John Soderling
> >
> >Old Red Devil
> >BN7
> >Don Yarber
> >
> >Pandora
> >BJ8
> >Don Gschwind
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
From "Scheuble, Fred J. ,HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 16:58:03 -0400
Subject: RE: Names
I've called my healey many names on occasion but I can't print it here!
-----Original Message-----
From: Martin Johnson [mailto:MJohnson@cfworks.com]
Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2000 4:03 PM
To: 'P.M. Pollock'; Healey net
Subject: RE: Names
Jolly Roger, Sprytly's Big Brother
BN7
Martin Johnson
-----Original Message-----
From: P.M. Pollock [mailto:pollpete@ix.netcom.com]
Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2000 12:32 PM
To: Healey net
Subject: Names
Awhile back I triggered a little thread about car gender by
referring to my BJ7 as "he". Got me musing about car names and
wondering how many of us have named our beasts and, like me, are
given to talking to them.
When I got my car new in '63 I started referring to it as 'the
Austin" and over the years, as I learned the value of talking to
machinery, it became shortened to just "Austin", so that's his
name. Pretty prosaic but I figure that, like boats, it is apt to
be bad luck to rename your car (if only because there'd be a
while during which it wouldn't know you're talking to it and
would fail to follow your tender instructions). So he's "Austin"
and he's a "he", which is not to say other Healeys aren't
"shes". (How else would we get Sprites?)
What this is leading up to is a collected list of the various and
sundry car names, nicknames, etc. Here's what I have so far.
Except for the mundane lead they're all splendid. Anyone
interested send your info to be added.
Austin
BJ7
Pete Pollock (talker)
Chimera
BJ7
Bill Moyer
"Known as "Chimera" a lion in front, a goat behind the wheel
and a snake's tail draggin' the exhaust behind. Goat's aren't
too bright."
Erika the Red
100-Six
John Soderling
Old Red Devil
BN7
Don Yarber
Pandora
BJ8
Don Gschwind
From JohnbS7257 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 19:32:14 EDT
Subject: Early Healeys
Just downloading my pictures from Conclave. The following question came to
mind, is the alloy bodied #14 of the preproduction run that was at Conclave
the earliest Healey still in existance?
Just curious.
John Stevens
"Ruby" BJ8 27621
JohnbS7257@aol.com
From Healybj8 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 19:57:30 EDT
Subject: Re: Names
Well I call mine Bambi. Old girl friend of mine came up with that one day
when she felt that I was spending too much time with my cars and not nearly
enough with her. (Read high maintenance. The girl that is.) It all came out
one day in one of those fits that far too many of my ex-girlfriends have.
She told me, "You ought to call that thing Bambi, because you sure spend a
lot of time under it screwing up!!!!" The bump and gash on my forehead were
worth it from the gaffaw I got from that piece of female logic. From that
time foreward Bambi she was.
Tim Wallace
'67 BJ8
Fuquay-Varina, NC
<< Awhile back I triggered a little thread about car gender by
referring to my BJ7 as "he". Got me musing about car names and
wondering how many of us have named our beasts and, like me, are
given to talking to them. >>
From JXLmail at aol.com
Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 20:01:25 EDT
Subject: Monterey Historics
Hey folks,
I think I've fandangled a business trip out to the Carmel/San Jose area Aug
18-22.
I would like to ask some basic questions about attending Saturday and Sundays
events.
Jim L.
56 BN2
From BGAHC at aol.com
Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 20:38:23 EDT
Subject: Re: Early Healeys
#4 is the oldest that I know of. Owned for a long time by Don Paye he had it
for sale recently. DMH drove the car around the USA as an introduction to the
marque. the photos at Tavern on the Green with Barbara Walters were taken
with that car. Don Paye became interested in the car when he heard about a
100 with virtually no rust in a barn. Since all Healeys rust he had to check
it out. Turned out to be an aluminum prototype.
Once did a rally asking that same question. My navigator watched me struggle
with the question. I could remember the picture of the car in a barn where it
was found from one of Geoff's books then finally remembered the name of the
owner. Of course my navigator kept quiet and enjoyed my struggle since my
navigator was Don Paye. he wrote "me" for the answer
Jim Werner
>
> Just downloading my pictures from Conclave. The following question came to
> mind, is the alloy bodied #14 of the preproduction run that was at
Conclave
> the earliest Healey still in existance?
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
1957 BN4 Rally Car
1966 BJ8
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 20:53:52 EDT
Subject: Re: paint 2 piece dash
In a message dated 8/1/00 9:40:26 AM, normcay@earthlink.net writes:
<< I believe that the original red BN-1's had the 2nd part of the 2 piece
dash (top part) painted black, I would appreciate correction if
appropriate, my question is whether the black was high gloss, low gloss,
or something else. >>
Main facia area was painted "body color on white, black, and green cars, dark
blue on most Healey Blue cars, and black on red cars. The smaller area
("instrument panel") was painted a light nonreflective silver." The main
area was a pretty, high-gloss, paint.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 21:06:03 EDT
Subject: Re: paint 2 piece dash
In a message dated 8/1/00 10:56:21 AM, esantoro@drbc.state.nj.us writes:
<< Mine is Black molded plastic or
Bakelite. The color is a dull black....like a semi gloss. It did not look
like it was painted. I hope this helps. EDS >>
Look again closely. Unless this is some fibreglass replacement, the dash is
metal.
Cheers
gary
From "S.HUTCHINGS" <hutching at myna.com>
Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 21:22:44 -0400
Subject: What's that noise,Part 2
Just so we can all learn something from this, I'll keep you posted. After
pulling the rocker shaft off, and dismantling it, I was disappointed to see
that the oil holes at either end were not blocked by the screw in plugs. So
my plan now is to pull the push rods and examine them.....next, while the
engine has no connection to the valve train, turn it and see if there is
any trace of the evil noise. Oh, and also do a compression check. A note to
Mike Salter, last time you commented on this you said you were still
thinking.....don't take off your thinking cap yet! I have tried the
suggestions you made, except for the
compression check.
Stephen "is this a hobby, or a cross to bear?" BJ8
From Mark Fawcett <fawcett1 at mediaone.net>
Date: Tue, 01 Aug 2000 18:34:49 -0700
Subject: Re: 3000 Flash
This is interesting, my HBT7/L862 also built April 22, 1959 does not have the
flash on the trunk and I think the 3000 horn button, I'm not quite sure of the
difference.
Mark Fawcett
Allen Adams wrote:
> My 3000 MKI, HBT7/L840 (built 22 April 1959) has the 3000 flash on the trunk
> lid, and as Reid has mentioned, has the 100/6 horn button.
>
> Al Adams
From "Eugene R. Montresor" <ermontresor at snet.net>
Date: Tue, 01 Aug 2000 21:40:18 -0400
Subject: horn,direction inticator control assembly
I have a BJ8 1964 and need to replace the wiring in the horn/direction
indicator assembly. Looking to disassemble but can't figure how to take
it apart? thanks gene
From William Moyer <William.Moyer at millersv.edu>
Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 22:13:51 -0400
Subject: RE: What's that noise,Part 2
From: S.HUTCHINGS
Stephen "is this a hobby, or a cross to bear?" BJ8
< Ans. Yes.
Bill Moyer, BJ7, Chimera
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Tue, 01 Aug 2000 22:26:03 -0400
Subject: Re: Flash or no Flash
CAWS52803@aol.com wrote:
> Maybe the horn button doesn't represent the 100/6, but a six cylinder engine.
> 'Rudy Streng
We seem to be getting confused here. the 100/6 button had the flash with 100
superimposed upon it and a very small 6 in a circle
The 3000 button just had the flash and the same very small 6 in the circle.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
From "RL Chrysler" <lchrysl at fhs.csu.McMaster.CA>
Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 22:52:17 -0400
Subject: Re: Early Healeys
>John Stevens wrote:
Just downloading my pictures from Conclave. The following question came to
> mind, is the alloy bodied #14 of the preproduction run that was at
Conclave
> the earliest Healey still in existance?
No, the second one built, which is the first Austin Healey to come to North
America belongs to Don Paye, and in fact was recently advertised for sale in
the Healey Marque.
The basis of Fred Hunter's 100S, was one of the three cars to be built and
prepared for the 1953 Lemans, which much later was rebuilt at Warwick and
sold as the S.
The eleventh exists, though much of it is missing. It is in the Vancouver,
B.C. area.
There are a handful more scattered about, but I believe these are the
earliest still existing.
Any others out there?
Rich Chrysler
From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 16:45:20 +1000
Subject: Re: Names
"Babe"
'58 BN4
When I first brought HER home my then girlfriend thought I was as proud as a
new father.
Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
----- Original Message -----
From: "P.M. Pollock" <pollpete@ix.netcom.com>
To: "Healey net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, 2 August 2000 5:31
Subject: Names
>
> Awhile back I triggered a little thread about car gender by
> referring to my BJ7 as "he". Got me musing about car names and
> wondering how many of us have named our beasts and, like me, are
> given to talking to them.
>
> When I got my car new in '63 I started referring to it as 'the
> Austin" and over the years, as I learned the value of talking to
> machinery, it became shortened to just "Austin", so that's his
> name. Pretty prosaic but I figure that, like boats, it is apt to
> be bad luck to rename your car (if only because there'd be a
> while during which it wouldn't know you're talking to it and
> would fail to follow your tender instructions). So he's "Austin"
> and he's a "he", which is not to say other Healeys aren't
> "shes". (How else would we get Sprites?)
>
> What this is leading up to is a collected list of the various and
> sundry car names, nicknames, etc. Here's what I have so far.
> Except for the mundane lead they're all splendid. Anyone
> interested send your info to be added.
>
>
> Austin
> BJ7
> Pete Pollock (talker)
>
> Chimera
> BJ7
> Bill Moyer
> "Known as "Chimera" a lion in front, a goat behind the wheel
> and a snake's tail draggin' the exhaust behind. Goat's aren't
> too bright."
>
> Erika the Red
> 100-Six
> John Soderling
>
> Old Red Devil
> BN7
> Don Yarber
>
> Pandora
> BJ8
> Don Gschwind
>
>
>
>
>
>
From hm.heim at t-online.de (Helga & Martin Heim)
Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 12:51:51 +0200
Subject: More on "SU Carbs" name (long)
I quote from the Burlen Fuel SU Reference Catalogue edition 9 / Sept.94
(Salisbury, Wiltshire,
England):
'The SU carburetter was patented in 1905 in the name of the late Mr.George
H.Skinner, a member of the family which owned the well-known shoe firm of
the time, Lilley & Skinner.
He evolved an idea whereby the normal fixed-choke tube and numerous jets
were replaced by an expanding choke and a single jet automatically
controlled by a sliding piston and a contoured needle. He and his brother,
Mr. Thomas Carlyle Skinner, developed a model on these original ideas using
some of their knowledge on the shoe industry by incorporating leather
bellows in the first carburetters.
Calling their company the SU Company, the initials standing for 'Skinners
Union', the two brothers set up a small workshop on the premisesof George
Wailes & Co in the Eusten Road, London, and the machining was done for the
brothers by this company. Production increased and the business was moved to
154 Prince of Wales Road, London - an old horse stable, the structure of
which had to be converted to allow production to take place.
After the outbreak of the first world war in 1914, the company virtually
ceased carburetter production to work on Government contracts making
machine-gun parts and tripods. There were app. 250 employees at that time.
A few years after the war ended, in 1920, because of general recession
within the motor industry due to inefficiency and high costs, the Company
had to resort to making wireless parts, windscreens, water cocks and other
similar engineering products to remain in business.
Having survived this depression, the Company returned to producing
carburetters and these were fitted to a number ot quality cars as such as
Bentley, Napier and Invicta.
In 1926 the SU Carburetter Company was purchased by Morris Motors Ltd, with
Mr. C. Skinner as director. The Company was transfered to Adderly Park,
Birmingham, alongside the Morris Commercial Cars Ltd factory where it
rapidly expanded, and where a petrol pump was developed and introduced.
In 1932 an Aero carburetter was developed and from this beginning a number
were produced for military and civil aircraft during the mid-to-late 1930's.
In 1936 the whole issued capital of the Company was acquired by Morris
Motors Ltd and the SU Carburetter Co Ltd was formed.
In 1939, after the outbreak of World War II, realising the importance of SU
Carburetter production to the war effort, work at the Riley Plant was
started to duplicate production. SU manufactured the carburetters for the
Spitfires and the Hurricanes, and when the factory was damaged by two air
raids on Birmingham in November 1940, the Air Ministry evacuated it to
another factory at Highlands Road, Shirley. In 1941 the SU Company aquired a
shadow factory in the Wharfe Valley, Yorkshire, and during these years a
fuel injection pump was developed for use on Merlin engines.
In 1945 the production of carburetters and fuel pumps for motor vehicles was
resumed and a move to the present site at Wood Lane, Erdington, Birmingham
took place in July 1947. In 1952, the formation of the B.M.C. widened the
market still further.
In 1965 British Motor Holdings was formed when the British Motor Corporation
and Jaguar, Guy, Coventry Climax joined together. In 1967 the SU Carburetter
Co developed and marketed a mechanical fuel pump and shortly after an
automatic enrichment device (AED). Subsequently British Motor Holdings and
Leyland joined forces to make first BLMC and later British Leyland (UK) Ltd.
During 1976 SU's position was modified once again and the Company became
part of a devision of Service and Parts known as SU/Butec. With the demise
of SU/Butec a few years later, SU lost its identity to become Austin Rover
Fuel Systems.
There followed a long period of drift and decline along with its parent
Austin Rover, and SU parts became more and more difficult to service.
However, in 1988 SU was acquired by the Hoburn Eaton Group, who themselves
were acquired by the large USA based multi-national Echlin Corporation
eighteen months later. The Echlin Corporation granted SU true independence,
been solely dedicated to automative components.
The name SU was brought back to the forefront, and the Company today trades
as SU Automotive, supplementing the traditional carburetter business with
lubrication, oil pumps and fuel injection products to support changing world
wide emission requirements and responding to customer needs. The change to
SU Automotive allowed the Company to utilize once more the good will and
heritage of the SU name.
Burlen Services, the parent company to Burlen Fuel Systems, was formed in
1971, and first became involved with SU carburetters in the fuel crisis of
1973. There followed a long period of co-operation, culminating in the
formation of the current Burlen Fuel Systems in 1986.
Burlen Fuel Systems were practically single-handedly responsible for the
re-emergence of the SU brand after many years of neglect. They upgraded its
image with the new SU blue livery and first promoted the product at
Autoequip in 1987, followed quickly by several other UK shows and the
prestigious 1988 AutoMechanika in Germany.
Burlen Fuel Systems now supllies most of the SU aftermarket requirements,
being responsible for kit packing, cataloguing and sales promotion
throughout the world. BFS has invested heavily in tooling, both in its own
right and in joint ventures with SU Automotive in order to support the
Classic market; the most recent example being the re-emergence of bodies for
H Type carburetters.'
End of quotation. Usual disclaimer !
Credits to my wife who typed most of it because my lack of typewriting
skills.
As the above is from 1994 who can shed more light on the latest history ?
Regards
Martin / Germany
----- Original Message -----
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2000 12:10 PM
Subject: Derivation of "SU Carbs" name
> I received the following from a non-Healey related but nevertheless
> reliable source and thought that everyone should have this arcane bit of
> information:
>
> << "At the turn of the century, an enlightened member of the leather
workers
> union in England foresaw the decline in the industry that the Industrial
> Revolution was bringing about. George Skinner sought to design a product
> that would be in demand in the new Industrial Age. As there was a great
deal
> of excitement in England associated with the automobile, George decided
to
> enter that field, producing a carburetor that made use of a leather
> diaphragm. The leather diaphragm controlled the rising and falling of the
> piston; this new carburetor raised the standard of flexibility and
economy
> to new levels.
>
> George Skinner patented the SU design in 1905. In 1910, with the help of
his
> brothers, George started the SU Carburetor Company, located in London.
SU,
> which stands for Skinner's Union, came from the family's name. This
company
> was bought by various British motor companies in the following years,
> finally coming under the expansive wing of the British Leyland empire.
The
> SU Carburetor Company is no longer in business, however BTR Engineering
in
> Australia has acquired the patents and plans, and is currently producing
> carburetors and parts."
> >>
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 08:51:17 -0400
Subject: RE: Flash or no Flash
My 61 BN7 has the Flash on the horn button.. but no small 6 in a circle??
-----Original Message-----
From: Krazy Kiwi [mailto:magicare@home.com]
Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2000 10:26 PM
To: CAWS52803@aol.com
Cc: stewartr@msu.edu; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Flash or no Flash
CAWS52803@aol.com wrote:
> Maybe the horn button doesn't represent the 100/6, but a six cylinder
engine.
> 'Rudy Streng
We seem to be getting confused here. the 100/6 button had the flash with 100
superimposed upon it and a very small 6 in a circle
The 3000 button just had the flash and the same very small 6 in the circle.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 02 Aug 2000 09:03:15 -0400
Subject: Re: Flash or no Flash
Hi Stephen,
If you hornbutton has no "6" on it it is the first that I have heard of, but
strange things do happen.
the 6 is normally on the middle of the very short leg of the three leg of the
flash.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
"Kocik, Stephen W" wrote:
> My 61 BN7 has the Flash on the horn button.. but no small 6 in a circle??
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Krazy Kiwi [mailto:magicare@home.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2000 10:26 PM
> To: CAWS52803@aol.com
> Cc: stewartr@msu.edu; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Flash or no Flash
>
> CAWS52803@aol.com wrote:
>
> > Maybe the horn button doesn't represent the 100/6, but a six cylinder
> engine.
> > 'Rudy Streng
>
> We seem to be getting confused here. the 100/6 button had the flash with 100
> superimposed upon it and a very small 6 in a circle
> The 3000 button just had the flash and the same very small 6 in the circle.
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
From "Chris Woodall" <cwoodall at mnsi.net>
Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 10:04:27 -0400
Subject: Interior Kits
Listers:
I would like some feedback on the area of upholstery kits. I am restoring a
1960 BT7 that I have done in BRG. I am at the re-upholstery stage and would
like to do the interior in tan ( I know it's not original). I would
appreciate any comments or recommendations as to sources for good quality
interior and carpet kits.
Thanks in advance,
Chris Woodall
1960 BT7 - "Not Yet Named"
From Brian Pearson <bgp at pearsoni.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 02 Aug 2000 15:42:28 +0100
Subject: Re: horn,direction inticator control assembly
Assuming you have the trafficator assembly out of the car:
Don't bend the thick tabs that secure the static tube to the back of the
assembly. These would only need to be removed if the rotating plate is
siezed.
There are three holes spaced equally radially at the back. Turn the
plate until they line up with the holes in the plate. There is a thin
disk with a tab on its circumference which bent into a recess in the
plate behind it. Use a small screwdriver to lever the tab out and rotate
the thin disk by the tab until you see phillips heads through the three
holes. Remove these screws. There are no spring loaded things at this
point.
If you are just replacing the wires, It's a good idea to do one at a
time and have the switch turned to make contact with the terminal that
your working on. This prevents the terminal from falling out.
If you want to go further, undo all the terminal nuts and things become
apparent when it comes apart.
Cheers,
Brian Pearson
BT7 Mk 1
"Eugene R. Montresor" wrote:
>
> I have a BJ8 1964 and need to replace the wiring in the horn/direction
> indicator assembly. Looking to disassemble but can't figure how to take
> it apart? thanks gene
From Norman Cay <normcay at earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 02 Aug 2000 07:59:17 -0700
Subject: Re: paint 2 piece dash
thank you all for the information, i bought gary's book but loaned it out to a
friend.
thanks again, norm
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 8/1/00 9:40:26 AM, normcay@earthlink.net writes:
>
> << I believe that the original red BN-1's had the 2nd part of the 2 piece
> dash (top part) painted black, I would appreciate correction if
> appropriate, my question is whether the black was high gloss, low gloss,
> or something else. >>
>
> Main facia area was painted "body color on white, black, and green cars, dark
> blue on most Healey Blue cars, and black on red cars. The smaller area
> ("instrument panel") was painted a light nonreflective silver." The main
> area was a pretty, high-gloss, paint.
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
From Brian Mix <brianmix at home.com>
Date: Wed, 02 Aug 2000 08:35:15 -0700
Subject: Re: Interior Kits
I got all my interior stuff from AH spares in the UK. They were very helpful
with my "custom" color of green (original but not offered by most companies).
They freely sent me samples of vinyl, leather and carpets until I found what I
liked. The shipping is more, of course, but their starting price is lower so it
works out well. I did the whole transaction by FAX, but they do have a WEB page
now.
http://www.ahspares.co.uk/ah-index.htm
Brian
'55 100 LeMans
Chris Woodall wrote:
> Listers:
>
> I would like some feedback on the area of upholstery kits. I am restoring a
> 1960 BT7 that I have done in BRG. I am at the re-upholstery stage and would
> like to do the interior in tan ( I know it's not original). I would
> appreciate any comments or recommendations as to sources for good quality
> interior and carpet kits.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Chris Woodall
> 1960 BT7 - "Not Yet Named"
From "Don Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 12:05:38 -0500
Subject: fuel pump
What is the consensus of opinion regarding the best type of electronic fuel
pump available with positive ground?
Don
BN7
From tom dooley <tdooley at ispchannel.com>
Date: Wed, 02 Aug 2000 10:22:10 -0700
Subject: Re: 100/6 or 3000 manifold?
To the group:
Anders Gustafson asked if the manifold on my 100-6 was
a later head, and not stock. I thought the engine was all
original. It's BN6L2282. Picture:
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=910249&a=6647047&p=25196830
Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Tom
'59 100-6 (BN6) ("The Oz.") (For Sale)
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 14:09:35 EDT
Subject: Re: Names
In a message dated 8/1/00 11:55:59 AM, pollpete@ix.netcom.com writes:
<< while during which it wouldn't know you're talking to it and
would fail to follow your tender instructions). So he's "Austin"
and he's a "he", which is not to say other Healeys aren't
"shes". (How else would we get Sprites?)
What this is leading up to is a collected list of the various and
sundry car names, nicknames, etc. Here's what I have so far.
Except for the mundane lead they're all splendid. Anyone
interested send your info to be added. >>
I talked to Norman Dewis, Jaguar's chief test driver from the fifties, just
before he drove the XJ13 up the hill at Goodwood a few weeks ago. I asked him
what he did just before a race. He said, "I talk to the car and tell her
what I expect of her. 'No messing about, a good clean run, give it all she's
got,' that sort of thing. It does make a difference, you know, if you talk to
your car."
Aa for me, the first time I drove my BN7, she found a way to communicate that
she had a name, and it was "Rachel." I see her as having been a petite,
attractive, and very athletic dancer in a former life. On long trips when
I'm driving, I often find myself "channeling" thoughts from her.
Far-fetched? Don't say that within earshot of her!
Cheers
Gary
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 14:16:56 EDT
Subject: Re: Re:Silicone Fluid(funny-hopefully)
In a message dated 8/1/00 10:32:05 AM, liason@sk.sympatico.ca writes:
<< If dot 4 was good enough to stop my car in 1956 it is good enough for
me. As an aside, I think that DMH probably used DOT4 to stop the cars he
ran at Bonneyville, UT. >>
I love absolutely positive answers that obfuscate the question with
irrelevancies and then include items of dubious accuracy. I could be wrong
on this (and if so, am sure I'll be corrected from all sides) but I think
that "Dot 4" wasn't even invented in 1956. If I'm not mistaken, the owners
manual recommends Castrol Dot 3. Obviously DMH used the Castrol as
recommended in the owners manual for the speed runs, because he didn't have
time to invent silicone brake fluid at the same time that he was installing
the supercharger on the prototype six-cylinder head.
Cheers
Gary
From PBetbeze at aol.com
Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 14:49:32 EDT
Subject: Flash or no Flash
Regarding Stephen Kocik's comment on flash or no flash I now have a BN7
titled 59, so it should be an early one, that has the adjustable steering
wheel and has the tiny 6 in the horn button. I restored this car in the
recent past. I bought one of the earliest BN7's in September 59 in Germany.
It had a non adjustable steering gear and a large horn button. The horn
button said 100-6. The car had disc brakes and all other 3000 badges. The
dealer had another 3000 in stock with drum brakes. I can only conclude that
variations like this are common. Arnold Betbeze , new to the list
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 02 Aug 2000 14:55:23 -0400
Subject: Re: horn,direction inticator control assembly
Hi Gene,
A couple of small additions to Brians very good explanation.
There are 3 small slot head grub screws in the steering wheel hub that you
need to undo a few turns to get the switch assy out of the wheel, be careful
to feed the wiring harness into the bottom of the steering box as you pull the
switch up, and the screws in the unit are all slot head, none of this fancy
Phillips stuff.
Also If you do decide to go the complete disassembly route be careful to use a
large clear space in case some of the springs and bits go flying.
Good luck.....
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Brian Pearson wrote:
> Assuming you have the trafficator assembly out of the car:
>
> Don't bend the thick tabs that secure the static tube to the back of the
> assembly. These would only need to be removed if the rotating plate is
> siezed.
> There are three holes spaced equally radially at the back. Turn the
> plate until they line up with the holes in the plate. There is a thin
> disk with a tab on its circumference which bent into a recess in the
> plate behind it. Use a small screwdriver to lever the tab out and rotate
> the thin disk by the tab until you see phillips heads through the three
> holes. Remove these screws. There are no spring loaded things at this
> point.
> If you are just replacing the wires, It's a good idea to do one at a
> time and have the switch turned to make contact with the terminal that
> your working on. This prevents the terminal from falling out.
>
> If you want to go further, undo all the terminal nuts and things become
> apparent when it comes apart.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Brian Pearson
> BT7 Mk 1
>
> "Eugene R. Montresor" wrote:
> >
> > I have a BJ8 1964 and need to replace the wiring in the horn/direction
> > indicator assembly. Looking to disassemble but can't figure how to take
> > it apart? thanks gene
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 15:08:14 EDT
Subject: Re: More on "SU Carbs" name (long)
Given the following, I guess it's just another urban/automotive myth that the
Skinners also held the patent to the tank valve on the flush toilet, first
developed to manage the flow of fuel into the float bowls.
Oh, well, it was a good story and does help to explain how float bowls work.
Cheers
Gary
In a message dated 8/2/00 3:14:13 AM, hm.heim@t-online.de writes:
<< 'The SU carburetter was patented in 1905 in the name of the late Mr.George
H.Skinner, a member of the family which owned the well-known shoe firm of
the time, Lilley & Skinner.
He evolved an idea whereby the normal fixed-choke tube and numerous jets
were replaced by an expanding choke and a single jet >>
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 15:08:48 EDT
Subject: Re: fuel pump
In a message dated 08/02/2000 12:00:22 PM Central Daylight Time,
dyarber@dynasty.net writes:
<< What is the consensus of opinion regarding the best type of electronic fuel
pump available with positive ground?
>>
There is, currently, only one, Don. Org SU Is just fine.
Cheers.........
Ed
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 15:21:14 EDT
Subject: Re: Names
In a message dated 08/02/2000 1:11:38 PM Central Daylight Time,
Editorgary@aol.com writes:
<< Don't say that within earshot of her! >>
Gary, that is, WITHOUT A DOUBT, the "sagest" advice I have EVER seen or
heard!!
Cheers..............
Ed
'63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey)
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 13:37:42 -0600
Subject: Re: fuel pump
Actually Ed, the original SU pumps which have been converted to a
transistorized switch are the best, I think I saw a factory upgrade to this
recently, but I don't recall if they were positive ground.....I'll get you a
parts list and schematic if you want them. dp
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
59 AH :{) 54 BN1
Click below for webpage and mopeds:
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
----- Original Message -----
From: <JustBrits@aol.com>
To: <dyarber@dynasty.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 02, 2000 1:08 PM
Subject: Re: fuel pump
>
> In a message dated 08/02/2000 12:00:22 PM Central Daylight Time,
> dyarber@dynasty.net writes:
>
> << What is the consensus of opinion regarding the best type of electronic
fuel
> pump available with positive ground?
> >>
> There is, currently, only one, Don. Org SU Is just fine.
>
> Cheers.........
>
> Ed
>
From Brian Pearson <bgp at pearsoni.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 02 Aug 2000 21:17:24 +0100
Subject: Re: horn,direction inticator control assembly
Oops, Mike's right. They are slot head screws.
Cheers,
Brian Pearson
Krazy Kiwi wrote:
>
> Hi Gene,
>
> A couple of small additions to Brians very good explanation.
> There are 3 small slot head grub screws in the steering wheel hub that you
> need to undo a few turns to get the switch assy out of the wheel, be careful
> to feed the wiring harness into the bottom of the steering box as you pull the
> switch up, and the screws in the unit are all slot head, none of this fancy
> Phillips stuff.
> Also If you do decide to go the complete disassembly route be careful to use a
> large clear space in case some of the springs and bits go flying.
> Good luck.....
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> <>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>
> Brian Pearson wrote:
>
> > Assuming you have the trafficator assembly out of the car:
> >
> > Don't bend the thick tabs that secure the static tube to the back of the
> > assembly. These would only need to be removed if the rotating plate is
> > siezed.
> > There are three holes spaced equally radially at the back. Turn the
> > plate until they line up with the holes in the plate. There is a thin
> > disk with a tab on its circumference which bent into a recess in the
> > plate behind it. Use a small screwdriver to lever the tab out and rotate
> > the thin disk by the tab until you see phillips heads through the three
> > holes. Remove these screws. There are no spring loaded things at this
> > point.
> > If you are just replacing the wires, It's a good idea to do one at a
> > time and have the switch turned to make contact with the terminal that
> > your working on. This prevents the terminal from falling out.
> >
> > If you want to go further, undo all the terminal nuts and things become
> > apparent when it comes apart.
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > Brian Pearson
> > BT7 Mk 1
> >
> > "Eugene R. Montresor" wrote:
> > >
> > > I have a BJ8 1964 and need to replace the wiring in the horn/direction
> > > indicator assembly. Looking to disassemble but can't figure how to take
> > > it apart? thanks gene
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 02 Aug 2000 16:44:17 -0400
Subject: Re: What's that noise,Part 2
I'm still thinking.
Could you send be a precise list of what you did to the poor thing to create
this problem.
Mike "Aren't you glad you don't do this for a living" Salter
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
"S.HUTCHINGS" wrote:
> Just so we can all learn something from this, I'll keep you posted. After
> pulling the rocker shaft off, and dismantling it, I was disappointed to see
> that the oil holes at either end were not blocked by the screw in plugs. So
> my plan now is to pull the push rods and examine them.....next, while the
> engine has no connection to the valve train, turn it and see if there is
> any trace of the evil noise. Oh, and also do a compression check. A note to
> Mike Salter, last time you commented on this you said you were still
> thinking.....don't take off your thinking cap yet! I have tried the
> suggestions you made, except for the
> compression check.
> Stephen "is this a hobby, or a cross to bear?" BJ8
From Herman Farrer <herman at hfphoto.com>
Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 17:19:38 -0400
Subject: Ford's Healey
Just came back from the supermarket where I do most of my reading.
The August 7 issue of People Magazine's cover story features Harrison
Ford. Included in the story is a shot of him in his new Healey. Looks
to be a BRG BJ7 or BJ8. Of course, Healey was misspelled. FWIW.
Herman
--
Capital Area Austin Healey Club
http://lightning.prohosting.com/~caahc
From "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan at virginnet.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 22:31:44 +0100
Subject: RE: Names
The Auld Banger.
And often referred to as "He" to make the distinction from
the other old banger in my life.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of howard young
> Sent: 01 August 2000 21:37
> To: P.M. Pollock
> Cc: Healey net
> Subject: Re: Names
>
>
>
> Agnes
> BN1
> Howard Lee Young,Jr.
>
> Don't know why my Pop named her that when he bought her in 1960,mos'
> pro'lly took t to the grave with him,unless it's in the article"A Love
> Affair With Agnes" that he wrote for his SCCA Reg. newspaper "Rebel
> Yell".I think i asked my Mom once and she didn't know.
> But Agnes was known to her competition as "# 64 E.P. She also "showed
> her ass" to more than one D.P.
>
>
> >
>
From "Ron Yates" <dipstickdigest at ctaz.com>
Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 14:56:05 -0700
Subject: Re: Names
Gary, et al
It's always worked for me!
My first car/love was a 1938 LaSalle Opera Coupe that was christened
"Angelique". She was magnificent!
This beautiful, tall two-door with fender mounted wheels, whitewalls, etc..
The guys in the car club used to deride her/me because she didn't fit the
chevy/ford concept that was so prevelant in the car clubs at the time.
One weekend at the local drag meet a couple of guys from the club
challenged me/her to a go. She/me easily beat the first challenge and the
next guy up was Howie Heinz who had this nifty '40 chevy with a special 271
Jimmy all spiffed to the nines..
I had always had conversations with Angelique from the first day she
came into my life about all manner of things, and I assured that no matter
what happened this day, she was the most special thing in my life and always
would be.
It was a close contest, but we pipped Howie, and as Angelique passed
that 271 Jimmy she spit some oil out the breather pipe that covered Howies
chevy from headlight to tail pipe. Now that was a bit unladylike, but you
could hear her chortling all the way back to the pit; if you listened real
close.
Angelique didn't win every race, but when she did she would leave her
mark. I never did figure out how, but then I didn't try too hard to find
out.
Since then I've never questioned their gender, they always were named
appropiately, were always included in conversations to and from wherever,
and considered part of the family, and taken care of accordingly. If I was
ever let down it was because of me not them. The car is a special person
and you treat "her" accordingly.
Ron
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <pollpete@ix.netcom.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 02, 2000 11:09 AM
Subject: Re: Names
>
>
> In a message dated 8/1/00 11:55:59 AM, pollpete@ix.netcom.com writes:
>
> << while during which it wouldn't know you're talking to it and
> would fail to follow your tender instructions). So he's "Austin"
> and he's a "he", which is not to say other Healeys aren't
> "shes". (How else would we get Sprites?)
>
> What this is leading up to is a collected list of the various and
> sundry car names, nicknames, etc. Here's what I have so far.
> Except for the mundane lead they're all splendid. Anyone
> interested send your info to be added. >>
>
> I talked to Norman Dewis, Jaguar's chief test driver from the fifties,
just
> before he drove the XJ13 up the hill at Goodwood a few weeks ago. I asked
him
> what he did just before a race. He said, "I talk to the car and tell her
> what I expect of her. 'No messing about, a good clean run, give it all
she's
> got,' that sort of thing. It does make a difference, you know, if you talk
to
> your car."
>
> Aa for me, the first time I drove my BN7, she found a way to communicate
that
> she had a name, and it was "Rachel." I see her as having been a petite,
> attractive, and very athletic dancer in a former life. On long trips when
> I'm driving, I often find myself "channeling" thoughts from her.
> Far-fetched? Don't say that within earshot of her!
>
> Cheers
> Gary
From "Ray Feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 16:19:44 -0400
Subject: Re: Names
That's what I used to say to my wife and she's gone. Sure glad I didn't talk
to my Healey like that.
-----Original Message-----
From: Editorgary@aol.com <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: pollpete@ix.netcom.com <pollpete@ix.netcom.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, August 02, 2000 2:13 PM
Subject: Re: Names
>
>
>In a message dated 8/1/00 11:55:59 AM, pollpete@ix.netcom.com writes:
>
><< while during which it wouldn't know you're talking to it and
>would fail to follow your tender instructions). So he's "Austin"
>and he's a "he", which is not to say other Healeys aren't
>"shes". (How else would we get Sprites?)
>
>What this is leading up to is a collected list of the various and
>sundry car names, nicknames, etc. Here's what I have so far.
>Except for the mundane lead they're all splendid. Anyone
>interested send your info to be added. >>
>
>I talked to Norman Dewis, Jaguar's chief test driver from the fifties, just
>before he drove the XJ13 up the hill at Goodwood a few weeks ago. I asked
him
>what he did just before a race. He said, "I talk to the car and tell her
>what I expect of her. 'No messing about, a good clean run, give it all
she's
>got,' that sort of thing. It does make a difference, you know, if you talk
to
>your car."
>
>Aa for me, the first time I drove my BN7, she found a way to communicate
that
>she had a name, and it was "Rachel." I see her as having been a petite,
>attractive, and very athletic dancer in a former life. On long trips when
>I'm driving, I often find myself "channeling" thoughts from her.
>Far-fetched? Don't say that within earshot of her!
>
>Cheers
>Gary
>
From "Ray Feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 16:21:23 -0400
Subject: Re: Names
So you have a Healey and a donut. That's nice. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
-----Original Message-----
From: Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@virginnet.co.uk>
To: howard young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>; P.M. Pollock <pollpete@ix.netcom.com>
Cc: Healey net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, August 02, 2000 5:49 PM
Subject: RE: Names
>
>The Auld Banger.
>And often referred to as "He" to make the distinction from
>the other old banger in my life.
>
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
>> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of howard young
>> Sent: 01 August 2000 21:37
>> To: P.M. Pollock
>> Cc: Healey net
>> Subject: Re: Names
>>
>>
>>
>> Agnes
>> BN1
>> Howard Lee Young,Jr.
>>
>> Don't know why my Pop named her that when he bought her in 1960,mos'
>> pro'lly took t to the grave with him,unless it's in the article"A Love
>> Affair With Agnes" that he wrote for his SCCA Reg. newspaper "Rebel
>> Yell".I think i asked my Mom once and she didn't know.
>> But Agnes was known to her competition as "# 64 E.P. She also "showed
>> her ass" to more than one D.P.
>>
>>
>> >
>>
>
From howard young <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
Date: Wed, 02 Aug 2000 18:43:50 -0500
Subject: Re: Names
Yes, Ray, and at least it WAS on a racetrack................................HoYo
Ray Feehan wrote:
> So you have a Healey and a donut. That's nice. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@virginnet.co.uk>
> To: howard young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>; P.M. Pollock <pollpete@ix.netcom.com>
> Cc: Healey net <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: Wednesday, August 02, 2000 5:49 PM
> Subject: RE: Names
>
> >
> >The Auld Banger.
> >And often referred to as "He" to make the distinction from
> >the other old banger in my life.
> >
> >
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> >> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of howard young
> >> Sent: 01 August 2000 21:37
> >> To: P.M. Pollock
> >> Cc: Healey net
> >> Subject: Re: Names
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Agnes
> >> BN1
> >> Howard Lee Young,Jr.
> >>
> >> Don't know why my Pop named her that when he bought her in 1960,mos'
> >> pro'lly took t to the grave with him,unless it's in the article"A Love
> >> Affair With Agnes" that he wrote for his SCCA Reg. newspaper "Rebel
> >> Yell".I think i asked my Mom once and she didn't know.
> >> But Agnes was known to her competition as "# 64 E.P. She also "showed
> >> her ass" to more than one D.P.
> >>
> >>
> >> >
> >>
> >
From howard young <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
Date: Wed, 02 Aug 2000 18:46:50 -0500
Subject: Re: Names
Yea-up Ray, "some have'em, some are them!" HoYo
Ray Feehan wrote:
> So you have a Healey and a donut. That's nice. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@virginnet.co.uk>
> To: howard young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>; P.M. Pollock <pollpete@ix.netcom.com>
> Cc: Healey net <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: Wednesday, August 02, 2000 5:49 PM
> Subject: RE: Names
>
> >
> >The Auld Banger.
> >And often referred to as "He" to make the distinction from
> >the other old banger in my life.
> >
> >
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> >> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of howard young
> >> Sent: 01 August 2000 21:37
> >> To: P.M. Pollock
> >> Cc: Healey net
> >> Subject: Re: Names
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Agnes
> >> BN1
> >> Howard Lee Young,Jr.
> >>
> >> Don't know why my Pop named her that when he bought her in 1960,mos'
> >> pro'lly took t to the grave with him,unless it's in the article"A Love
> >> Affair With Agnes" that he wrote for his SCCA Reg. newspaper "Rebel
> >> Yell".I think i asked my Mom once and she didn't know.
> >> But Agnes was known to her competition as "# 64 E.P. She also "showed
> >> her ass" to more than one D.P.
> >>
> >>
> >> >
> >>
> >
From "Genevieve Judge" <gjudge at uswest.net>
Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 17:13:37 -0700
Subject: RE: Early Healeys
John,
I believe that my husband and I own the oldest Healey in existence (with its
original body). We bought a 1946 Healey Westland a couple of years ago and
found HB9 (Healey Body 9) all over the individual pieces. I'm wondering if
the numbering started over for each model. If anybody out there has an
older Healey, I'd be very interested to know about it. I'd hate to think
that I've been bragging in error. :)
Genevieve Judge Emerson (Bill's wife)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of JohnbS7257@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2000 4:32 PM
To: Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Early Healeys
Just downloading my pictures from Conclave. The following question came to
mind, is the alloy bodied #14 of the preproduction run that was at Conclave
the earliest Healey still in existance?
Just curious.
John Stevens
"Ruby" BJ8 27621
JohnbS7257@aol.com
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 20:30:01 EDT
Subject: Re: Ford's Healey
In a message dated 08/02/2000 4:21:46 PM Central Daylight Time,
herman@hfphoto.com writes:
<< BJ8. >>
8, Herman. And you are WAY behind in your mail!!!<G>
Snooze, you loose.<G>
Cheers.............
Ed
PS: OH yeah, Texas car. Wife's gift.
From "Alan J. Toepfer" <ajtoepfe at flash.net>
Date: Tue, 01 Aug 2000 18:45:09 -0600
Subject: Re: Reply: Derivation of "SU Carbs" name
Do you have a URL or address for Burlen? I'm interested in the "pointless"
conversion kit.
Al Toepfer
BT7L/1173
----------
>From: njones@amadeus.net
>To: Awgertoo@aol.com
>Subject: Reply: Derivation of "SU Carbs" name
>Date: Tue, Aug 1, 2000, 5:55 AM
>
>
>
> The SU name and carburettors,pumps, you name it are now owned by Burlen Fuel
> Systems in England.
>
> They manufacture and restore every SU carburettor/fuel pump ever made.
>
> Their carb restoration with polished tops are second to none..
>
> They also convert from +ve earth to - earth all fuel pumps as well as
> manufacturing an electronic conversion kit known
> as the 'pointless' conversion again for either +/- earth cars.
>
> The correct fuel pump for Healeys (+earth) is AZX 1319 (standard replacement
for
> AUF 301 etc) high pressure 3.8psi.
> This pump was also originally standard for Jags.
> I've just had mine converted to the pointless type...starts up first time
every
> time..
>
> Most people probably know this already...common knowledge..nuff said...
> Usual disclaimers apply..just very happy ..!
>
>
>
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.QUINN at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2000 10:45:00 +1000
Subject: Re: RE: Early Healeys
Hi Genevieve
What's the chassis number of the Westland? I assume it's an A type?
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
>>> Genevieve Judge 3/08/00 10:13:37 >>>
John,
I believe that my husband and I own the oldest Healey in existence (with its
original body). We bought a 1946 Healey Westland a couple of years ago and
found HB9 (Healey Body 9) all over the individual pieces. I'm wondering if
the numbering started over for each model. If anybody out there has an
older Healey, I'd be very interested to know about it. I'd hate to think
that I've been bragging in error. :)
Genevieve Judge Emerson (Bill's wife)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of JohnbS7257@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2000 4:32 PM
To: Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Early Healeys
Just downloading my pictures from Conclave. The following question came to
mind, is the alloy bodied #14 of the preproduction run that was at Conclave
the earliest Healey still in existance?
Just curious.
John Stevens
"Ruby" BJ8 27621
JohnbS7257@aol.com
From Joseph Elmer <Joelmer at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 02 Aug 2000 21:05:35 -0400
Subject: 2-3 gear overdrive switch, oil seal
While checking my overdrive in my early BN! last week end I found two
problems:
1. When I took the cover off the solinoid lifting lever box I found oil
in the box. I assume this is from a leaking oil seal on the valve
shaft. How is this replaced?
2. The switch that permits the OD to work only in second or third can
be opened or closed by pushing the gear shift lever left or right after
selecting either second or third. Is this a worn switch or worn
internals in the transmission?
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 21:19:43 EDT
Subject: Another good thing to carry in the Healey
Working to solve a leaky gas line compression fitting at the fuel pump on a
Frogeye, several friends used a new produce I wasn't familiar with – Loctite
Instant Gas Tank Repair. Its a cigar-shaped piece of putty, with a black
inner core and light outer, kneaded together until uniform color, then
applied.
After the problem was diagnosed as an American ferrule that wasn't long
enough to be compressed adequately by the original compression fitting, and
the conclusion that it was unlikely we would find the right English ferrule
in Ocean Shores, Washington, one of the group suggested the Loctite product,
which apparently is readily available, even in tiny auto parts stores in
small resort communities. Wrapped over the fitting and given an hour to set
up, it stopped the leak and got the Sprite the 180 miles home. Still
holding, I understand.
I'm going to buy some to add to the other patch things I already have in my
bag.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From Healybj8 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 21:26:16 EDT
Subject: Re: 2-3 gear overdrive switch, oil seal
I think I know this one. That is if its the same sort of thing I have in my
BJ8.
First, how much oil was there? I found a slight ammount in the bottom of
mine when I opened it recently. There is a shaft which runs through the
center of the unit, and no seal on a rotating shaft will seal completely.
You will get some seepage over time, and if there is a small ammount in
there, I'd say that is normal. If its chock full, then there may be a
problem. I don't know that its a serious problem, because the oil probably
isn't going to hurt anything that is in there. Listers light me up if I'm
wrong. :o)
Second, the switch which locks out first and second is on the shifter linkage
itself. Its external to the OD unit. Trace out the wires going from the
solenoid, and they should lead directly to the switch I am speaking of. It
sits right at the base of the lever.
Hope that helps.
Tim Wallace
'67 BJ8
Fuquay-Varina, NC
In a message dated 08/02/2000 9:17:44 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
Joelmer@worldnet.att.net writes:
<< While checking my overdrive in my early BN! last week end I found two
problems:
1. When I took the cover off the solinoid lifting lever box I found oil
in the box. I assume this is from a leaking oil seal on the valve
shaft. How is this replaced?
2. The switch that permits the OD to work only in second or third can
be opened or closed by pushing the gear shift lever left or right after
selecting either second or third. Is this a worn switch or worn
internals in the transmission? >>
From "Genevieve Judge" <gjudge at uswest.net>
Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 18:54:30 -0700
Subject: RE: RE: Early Healeys
Pat,
You're absolutely right, it is an "A" type. The chassis number is A1543.
Gen
-----Original Message-----
From: Quinn, Patrick [mailto:Patrick.QUINN@det.nsw.edu.au]
Sent: Wednesday, August 02, 2000 5:45 PM
To: gjudge@uswest.net; Healeys@autox.team.net; JohnbS7257@aol.com
Subject: Re: RE: Early Healeys
Hi Genevieve
What's the chassis number of the Westland? I assume it's an A type?
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
>>> Genevieve Judge 3/08/00 10:13:37 >>>
John,
I believe that my husband and I own the oldest Healey in existence (with its
original body). We bought a 1946 Healey Westland a couple of years ago and
found HB9 (Healey Body 9) all over the individual pieces. I'm wondering if
the numbering started over for each model. If anybody out there has an
older Healey, I'd be very interested to know about it. I'd hate to think
that I've been bragging in error. :)
Genevieve Judge Emerson (Bill's wife)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of JohnbS7257@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2000 4:32 PM
To: Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Early Healeys
Just downloading my pictures from Conclave. The following question came to
mind, is the alloy bodied #14 of the preproduction run that was at Conclave
the earliest Healey still in existance?
Just curious.
John Stevens
"Ruby" BJ8 27621
JohnbS7257@aol.com
From "Andy King" <healey-100 at hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 16:05:52 -1000
Subject: Re: What's that noise,Part 2
Is it possible during the machine work, when the valve guides were pressed
in they didn't get the height above the spring boss correct, and the valve
spring retainers are hitting the top of the guide when the valve is in the
fully open position.
(Just one thing to check among many.) I used to do valve jobs in a
automotive machine shop years ago and you would always have to check and
take measurements before knocking out a guide and pressing in a new one.
Please let us know the outcome
Andy King
----- Original Message -----
From: "Krazy Kiwi" <magicare@home.com>
To: "S.HUTCHINGS" <hutching@myna.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 02, 2000 10:44 AM
Subject: Re: What's that noise,Part 2
>
> I'm still thinking.
> Could you send be a precise list of what you did to the poor thing to
create
> this problem.
>
>
> Mike "Aren't you glad you don't do this for a living" Salter
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>
> "S.HUTCHINGS" wrote:
>
> > Just so we can all learn something from this, I'll keep you posted.
After
> > pulling the rocker shaft off, and dismantling it, I was disappointed to
see
> > that the oil holes at either end were not blocked by the screw in plugs.
So
> > my plan now is to pull the push rods and examine them.....next, while
the
> > engine has no connection to the valve train, turn it and see if there is
> > any trace of the evil noise. Oh, and also do a compression check. A note
to
> > Mike Salter, last time you commented on this you said you were still
> > thinking.....don't take off your thinking cap yet! I have tried the
> > suggestions you made, except for the
> > compression check.
> > Stephen "is this a hobby, or a cross to bear?" BJ8
>
>
>
>
>
From Csooch1 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 22:23:37 EDT
Subject: Re: Silicone Fluid(funny-hopefully)
<< recommended in the owners manual for the speed runs, because he didn't
have
time to invent silicone brake fluid at the same time that he was installing
>>
Yeah, well he probably would have been more careful not to spill it on any
painted surfaces also. Dot 3 and 4 fluid always reads on the bottle that it
damages paint...so just be careful not to spill any. I have used Castrol
GT/LMA in every vehicle I have owned and have not lost any paint yet on any
of my cars. I'll stick with the firm pedal thanks...i'll get an old Caddy if
I want mush.
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
XJ6
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 22:34:48 -0400
Subject: re interior kits
Chris,
Heritage (BAS) 1 800 661 5377
call for a free sample kit in many different colors (as well as the stock
healey). There should be a shade of tan to please you. I've installed these
kits and are superb. If you leave a message they will return your call
.they are extremely busy, but believe me the kits are well worth waiting
for.
Carroll A Phillips Top Down Restorations
From MOWOGMAN at aol.com
Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 22:53:52 EDT
Subject: New toy models "British Invasion" series!
To those of you who care about little LBC's, I ran into a new series of die
cast cars today. They are "Johnny Lightning" brand, "British Invasion"
series, called "Limited Edition" "First Shot" There is a '60 Austin Healey
Sprite, a '61 MGA, a '62 E-Type, a '61 TR3A, a '63 MGB, and a '67 Alpine.
In each box you get two cars, a gold one (why?) and a raw metal one (again,
why?), cost was around $9.
I got mine at Shopko, although Walmart carries this brand, I just wasn't
there yet.
The Sprite is pretty nice, althought the tail is a little square, but all in
all the proportions are good. The TR3 is nicely done as well but the wheels
look a little small, especially at the front. I did not closely inspect the
other cars. The box also says: "1 of 7500" I suppose if all those sell,
they release them again in another color, another limited edition!
any way, happy shopping!
John
Oostburg, WI
'60 BT7
'60 Mini
'80 TR7 (freshly repainted Carmine red!)
'69 AA
'57 Isetta
Etc.
From MOWOGMAN at aol.com
Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 22:57:49 EDT
Subject: Re: New toy models "British Invasion" series!
by the way, some of the stuff on these models is kind of typically screwed up!
one the front of the Sprite box it says "1957 Austin Healy Sprite" on a
sticker, but on the back it says "1960 Austin-Healey Sprite" The TR3a says
1968 on the front, and 1961 on the back of the box! Must of got screwed up
in the translation.
John.
From "Patrick QUINN" <QUINNP at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Thu, 03 Aug 2000 15:46:30 +1000
Subject: Front Wheel Bearings
G'day
I was asking about this close on to four years ago but did not have any
success. Perhaps the combined knowledge of the list has multiplied and it might
be able to help.
The front wheel bearings on the BN1 and all disc wheel big Austin-Healeys are
ball type while on the wire wheel cars from the BN2 they're taper roller.
I have a friend with a BN1 who would like to change over to taper roller and I
would be interested in changing the BN3s over as well.
My friend does not wish to change his car's front end to a BN2 and as the BN3
was built with steel wheels I am not interested in changing over to wires.
Has anyone successfully changed ball type bearings over to taper roller?
As a matter of interest the BN1 inner bearing is the same as the inner on the
steel wheel cars but the BN1 outer is smaller then that on disc wheel cars.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
From David Neale <dneale at pacbell.net>
Date: Wed, 02 Aug 2000 23:36:47 -0700
Subject: Re: Spanners
Thank you your advice. I am now the owner of a new set of SAE wrenches and
ready to dive in under the bonnet!
Thanks to you all.
DAVID NEALE
BN7
BJ8 (On the truck and arriving on Monday)
From njones at amadeus.net
Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2000 08:45:38 +0100
Subject: Buirlen Fuel systems
--0__=9CAJppvpAQihGTuiiSr65p29NxRT1oM8Dt8vKyH9N9bVpKkzB1UDSXUN
Content-Disposition: inline
From: Nick Jones@AMAWORLD on 03/08/2000 08:45 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
cc:
Subject: Buirlen Fuel systems
Manufacturer, Distributor, and Retailer of SU and Zenith Carburetters and Pumps
for Jaguars and most British Classic Cars
Carburetter and Fuel Pump Restoration Service
New SU Carbs and Pumps available for most pre and post war models
Pointless electronic pumps and conversion kits
Spares, Gasket Packs, Service Kits and Repair Kits
Electric Fuel Pumps - New units ALL TYPES available including LCS or
reconditioning service.
AED Units - exchange service. New Thermo Units and Spares
UK and Worldwide Export Mail Order
Catalogues
1.SU Reference Catalogue contains over 200 pages and details all
applications from 1930 including: pumps, thermo carbs and AED's. A must for your
classic library.
2.The SU Workshop Manual contains some 84 pages of know how.
3.Zenith & CD Catalogue, contains over 100 packed pages of applications
from the mid '30s to 1985. Many new kits and components not available
before.
Contact;
Try http://www.burlen.co.uk/
email :info@burlen.co.uk
(Embedded image moved to file: pic07111.pcx)
--0__=9CAJppvpAQihGTuiiSr65p29NxRT1oM8Dt8vKyH9N9bVpKkzB1UDSXUN
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From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2000 09:03:58 +0100
Subject: Re: Front Wheel Bearings
>
>I was asking about this close on to four years ago but did not have any
>success.
>Perhaps the combined knowledge of the list has multiplied and it might be able
>to help.
>
Pat
I have been on this user group for over four now and do not remember
this cominmg up before!
>The front wheel bearings on the BN1 and all disc wheel big Austin-Healeys are
>ball type while on the wire wheel cars from the BN2 they're taper roller.
>
>I have a friend with a BN1 who would like to change over to taper roller and I
>would be interested in changing the BN3s over as well.
There was an official modification listed for BN1s in the Austin Service
Journal Volume 25 - Suspension 6. This replaced the ball bearings with
taper alternatives but also required that the hubs be machined to take a
longer inner bearing.
After some difficulty I have acquired a set of bearings. Some had to be
imported into the UK from the States. I am now ready to have spare hubs
machined which should not be a major problem. All that is holding me
back now is to find the time between all my over interests.
>
All the best
>My friend does not wish to change his car's front end to a BN2 and as the BN3
>was built with steel wheels I am not interested in changing over to wires.
>
>Has anyone successfully changed ball type bearings over to taper roller?
>
>As a matter of interest the BN1 inner bearing is the same as the inner on the
>steel wheel cars but the BN1 outer is smaller then that on disc wheel cars.
>
>Regards
>
>Patrick Quinn
>Sydney, Australia
>
>1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
>1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
>
--
John Harper
From JohnbS7257 at aol.com
Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2000 09:36:06 EDT
Subject: Re: Silicone Fluid(funny-hopefully)
Here is a dumb question (I know the only dumb question is the one not asked).
When I start working on my BJ8 brake system, how do I tell which kind of
fluid is in there now? Color, taste, try it on paint??
Thanks for the help
John Stevens
"Ruby" BJ8 27621
JohnbS7257@aol.com
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Thu, 03 Aug 2000 10:01:46 -0400
Subject: Re: Healey 100 crankshaft
1 11/16 " Six Point
Check the archives for additional information.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Louis Galper wrote:
> Does anyone have the correct size of the socket needed to remove the
> crank pulley nut on the 4 cylinder engine?
>
> Maybe a six-point 2 inch socket?
From JohnbS7257 at aol.com
Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2000 10:25:57 EDT
Subject: Re: Silicone Fluid(funny-hopefully)
Bob,
Yep, I may be dumb but not that dumb!
Cerona says we will go to Conclave next year. Take the Healey, but trailer
it, so GO OUT AND BUY A TRAILER AND SOMETHING TO TOW IT WITH!!! Oh boy!!!
John
Bob wrote
"John,
I don't know the answer to your question, but at least you didn't
ask which type of brake fluid was best to use.
Bob"
From "Meyer, Alan" <Alan.Meyer at compaq.com>
Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2000 10:45:56 -0500
Subject: 100-6 frame top
I have a 1958 100-6, BN4, that is a first series car and would like any
information regarding the top frame. It
fastens with a slide mechanism, rather than being inserted into a hole.
Also, does anyone know where to get the red and blue plastic pieces for the
high beam and ignition lights in the gauges?
Thanks,
al
From "Dr. C Rubino" <ruvino at recorder.ca>
Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2000 12:07:46 -0400
Subject:
Anybody out there have experience installing a Lucas twin air horn?
I tried wiring the relay but it doesn't want to work. The instructions are
lousy and I am obviously doing something wrong.
Any help would be appreciated.
Carl
'57 BN-4(L)
From "P.M. Pollock" <pollpete at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Thu, 03 Aug 2000 09:07:08 -0700
Subject: Re: Spanners
David-
Always keep in mind that you are working on a British car.
As a friend of mine commented when I gently chided him for not getting around
to performing a common task to get his MGB (his 14th!) running: "Sh*t, Pete,
I already know which knuckles I'll skin and how much blood I'll lose."
Pete Pollock
BJ7
N. California
David Neale wrote:
> Thank you your advice. I am now the owner of a new set of SAE wrenches and
> ready to dive in under the bonnet!
>
> Thanks to you all.
>
> DAVID NEALE
> BN7
> BJ8 (On the truck and arriving on Monday)
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2000 09:22:59 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Monterey Historics
Jim,
I have attached a partial listing of events for
Monterey from the Monterey web site
http://www.gomonterey.com/events.html. There are far
more events then time and money allows. If you go to
the races get you tickets in advance through the
laguna-seca web site.
My weekend typically looks like this:
Friday am: Drive up
Friday: Cannery Row to watch the parade of cars
Saturday: Races
Saturday Night: Auction/Cannery Row
Sunday: Very very eary to Pebble Beach to watch the
cars unload and back to the races.
Sunday: Drive back home
Hope to see you there,
Dean
BN7
August 16 - 17 -- Peninsula Rally at Quail Lodge
Motorists with pre-1975 vintage automobiles will
enjoy two days of road rallying, breakfast, gourmet
picnics, cocktails on the
Covey Deck followed by a fabulous Vintner Dinner
and award ceremony. Deluxe package includes tickets to
Laguna Seca
Antique Races, Concorso Italiano and much more!
Quail Lodge Resort & Golf Club, Carmel.
Fee: Rally $1200; Deluxe Package $1600 Time: 9am
Start Phone Number: (831) 620-8881
August 16 - 20 -- Blackhawk Collection Expostion
of Classic Cars
A traveling exhibit of rare, vintage, classic and
one-of-a-kind automobiles (showcases 60 examples
available for purchase).
Peter Hay Golf Course, Pebble Beach. Call for
catalog and additional information.
Fee: No charge for the Expo (Pebble Beach vehicle
gate fee in effect) Time: 10am - 8pm Daily Phone
Number: (925)
736-3444
August 18 - 19 -- Annual Monterey Sports Car
Auction
Call for catalog and information. At Double Tree
Hotel, Fisherman's Wharf.
Fee: $25 each day or $40 for weekend Time:
Preview 9am - 6pm, Auction 6pm-Midnight each day Phone
Number:
(800) 211-4371
August 18 - 20 -- Monterey Historic Automobile
Races
Laguna Seca Raceway relives auto racing's past
with the premier vintage racing event in the world, as
Chrysler/Jeep/Dodge
presents the 27th Annual Monterey Historic
Automobile Races. The Featured Marque for 2000 will be
Maserati.
Fee: $25 to $200 Time: 8:00a.m. to 5:00p.m. each
day Phone Number: 800-327-SECA
August 18 -- Hot Cars / Cool Nights
Rod and Classic Car show. Pre-'73 cars, awards,
raffles, 50-50 raffle, music. West Broadway at Fremont
in Seaside.
Hosted by Gold Coast Rods & the City of Seaside.
Fee: Free Time: 5-8pm Phone Number: (831)
394-4254
August 18 -- Concorso Italiano 2000
Premier international event showcasing exotic
Italian automobiles and motorcycles. Enjoy Italian
food, fashion, music and fast
cars on the fairway at the Quail Lodge Resort &
Golf Club in Carmel. A portion of the proceeds benefit
Monterey Peninsula
Charities. *Ticket prices include parking and
event program.
Fee: $40 Advance, $45 Day of Event* Time: 9am -
4:30pm Phone Number: (831) 624-1581
August 19 -- Annual Ferrari Concours
The Ferrari Owners Club will be having a hugh
rally in the south parking lot at The Barnyard,
Carmel. Spectators are invited
to view these fantastic cars.
Fee: Free Time: Afternoon (call for exact time)
Phone Number: (831) 624-8886
August 19 -- Annual Monterey Historic Automobile
Races Celebration
The world-renown marque Maserati is featured on
Cannery Row as displays and musical entertainment
welcome racers to
the Monterey Peninsula.
Fee: Free Time: 7:00pm Phone Number: (831)
372-2259
August 19 -- Auction At Quail Lodge
Brooks USA's car auction sale is of truly
international caliber, presenting superb automobiles
for all tastes from several of the
finest collections in American and Europe.
Location: Quail Lodge Resort & Golf Club, Carmel.
Fee: Call Time: Call Phone Number: (415)
391-4000, (831) 620-8889
August 20 -- Pebble Beach Concours d'Elegance
50th Anniversary
Ever since 1950, Pebble Beach has been host to
this auto-enthusiast's dream come true. Held on the
18th Fairway of Pebble
Beach Golf Links, it is an annual gathering of
rare and antique automobiles, international automotive
luminaries and motorcar
enthusiasts from around the globe.
Fee: $100.00 Time: 10:30am - 4:30pm Phone Number:
(831)659-0663 or (831) 372-8026 United Way
--- JXLmail@aol.com wrote:
>
> Hey folks,
>
> I think I've fandangled a business trip out to the
> Carmel/San Jose area Aug
> 18-22.
> I would like to ask some basic questions about
> attending Saturday and Sundays
> events.
>
> Jim L.
> 56 BN2
__________________________________________________
Kick off your party with Yahoo! Invites.
http://invites.yahoo.com/
From "Michael Lempert" <mdlempert at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2000 12:23:26 -0400
Subject: Re: Interior Kits
Hi Chris. Your color choice sounds much like what I did about a year ago.
I used Jaguar Dark Green on my BT7 and had beige seat covers custom made
through Steve Jowett at UK Healey Centre
http://dspace.dial.pipex.com/austin.healey/
The seat covers are beige with dark green piping. The carpet, also
purchased from Steve, is dark green. I made the interior panels myself
using the old panels as a template. I was able to match the beige leather
to a vinyl at a local auto upholsterer. I chose dark green for the dash.
It all worked out quite well - not original, of course, but quite
striking. I received many compliments at the Moss Fallfest show where it
took 1st place.
If you're interested in seeing pictures, let me know. I'll be selling it
soon, so I'm working on putting some shots together.
Regards,
Mike L.
Bridgewater, NJ
'56 BN2
'59 BN7
'60 BT7
'60 Bugeye
'70 E-Type
'79 Midget
>I would like some feedback on the area of upholstery kits. I am restoring
a
>1960 BT7 that I have done in BRG. I am at the re-upholstery stage and
would
>like to do the interior in tan ( I know it's not original). I would
>appreciate any comments or recommendations as to sources for good quality
>interior and carpet kits.
>
>Thanks in advance,
>
>Chris Woodall
>1960 BT7 - "Not Yet Named"
From "S.HUTCHINGS" <hutching at myna.com>
Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2000 13:14:44 -0400
Subject: Re; Re; Strange noises
Thanks to Andy King and Doug Reid for your suggestions. The head didn't
receive a full valve job, because the valves and guides were OK, the guides
weren't changed.
I've gone over the rocker shaft in detail, and all the holes were drilled
in all bushes.
Still eliminating....Stephen
From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2000 10:19:31 -0700
Subject: Kwik Lift - A very cool item
An unsolicited - unpaid testimonial follows
A few months ago I posted asking how you folks safely get under your
Healeys, given the low slung nature of these beasts. No garage in my town
would even consider letting me rent time on their lift. I'm scared to death
of jack stands, a neighbor was nearly killed a ways back when his Ferrari
landed on his chest.
One good recommendation was the KwikLift ramp system. I checked it out on
the web http://www.kwiklift.com/
and decided that this was the perfect (but a bit costly) solution for me.
It arrived this week and I just wanted to let you know that this is a
wonderful product - if you can afford it and the minimal space needed. I'll
use it as a permanent parking spot in my garage and just elevate it when
needed.
I bought the bare bones non-painted variety. It probably does need some
kind of protective coating (Rustoleum would do) or have them do the powder
coat paint for an addl $250.
Anyhow, it works like a dream, extremely simple to assemble and is just a
wonderful item to have for someone feeling unsafe with jack stands (I live
in Earthquake country). Again - no personal interest in the product just a
happy customer. Randy ('66 BJ8)
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Thu, 03 Aug 2000 13:44:33 -0400
Subject: Re: 100-6 frame top
"Meyer, Alan" wrote:
> I have a 1958 100-6, BN4, that is a first series car and would like any
> information regarding the top frame. It
> fastens with a slide mechanism, rather than being inserted into a hole.
>
> Also, does anyone know where to get the red and blue plastic pieces for the
> high beam and ignition lights in the gauges?
>
> Thanks,
>
> al
The top frame that you need does indeed does indeed engage in slide rails which
are bolted to the upper front corner of the inned render panel..The rails are
about 45 " long.
The ends of the frame rail have small rollers on them which run up and down in
the rail. this allows the frame to move back far enough to be stored behind the
rear seat back when the top is down.
If your car woas originally fitted with this type of frame you should be able
to find the pair of holes on each side where the rail was fitted.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From "Anders Gustafson" <bugeye at telia.com>
Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2000 19:41:38 +0200
Subject: RE: 100/6 or 3000 manifold?
Hello,
I took some time to look it up in Clausangers Book "Original Austin Healey"
and all BN6 and late BN4, some from october -57, and then all cars from
November -57, had the improved six- (or sometimes known as 12-) port head
with separate mainfold (the early BN4´s had the inlet in cast iron integral
with the head). The US cars got the new head first, according to Clausanger
sold as the 100-6 MM (for Mille Miglia) - probably a sales guy idea, don't
you think? Further on, the valves were increased in size and the compression
ratio was raised with flat top pistons. Also the SU HD6 carbs were fitted.
.... From what I can see comparing Toms engine with the examples in the
book, they look the same.
kind regards
Anders(should-have-read-the-book-first)Gustafson
-61 AH Sprite Mk1
-67 BMC Morris 850
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
Anders Gustafson
Phone +46-8-7493113, +46-70-5641432 (Mobile)
e-mail: bugeye@telia.com
Austin Healey Club of Sweden
ahcs@telia.com
www.healeysweden.com
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of tom dooley
Sent: den 2 augusti 2000 19:22
To: Healey List
Subject: Re: 100/6 or 3000 manifold?
To the group:
Anders Gustafson asked if the manifold on my 100-6 was
a later head, and not stock. I thought the engine was all
original. It's BN6L2282. Picture:
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=910249&a=6647047&p=25196830
Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Tom
'59 100-6 (BN6) ("The Oz.") (For Sale)
From "Scheuble, Fred J. ,HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2000 14:26:11 -0400
Subject: RE: Kwik Lift - A very cool item
Randy,
I was interested in this product, I was however a little shaky on
the rear leg design, however its hard to tell from the photos, are the rear
legs REALLY STABLE, I mean if the car got shoved while on the rack?
-----Original Message-----
From: Coop1 [mailto:coop1@dnai.com]
Sent: Thursday, August 03, 2000 1:20 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Kwik Lift - A very cool item
An unsolicited - unpaid testimonial follows
A few months ago I posted asking how you folks safely get under your
Healeys, given the low slung nature of these beasts. No garage in my town
would even consider letting me rent time on their lift. I'm scared to death
of jack stands, a neighbor was nearly killed a ways back when his Ferrari
landed on his chest.
One good recommendation was the KwikLift ramp system. I checked it out on
the web http://www.kwiklift.com/
and decided that this was the perfect (but a bit costly) solution for me.
It arrived this week and I just wanted to let you know that this is a
wonderful product - if you can afford it and the minimal space needed. I'll
use it as a permanent parking spot in my garage and just elevate it when
needed.
I bought the bare bones non-painted variety. It probably does need some
kind of protective coating (Rustoleum would do) or have them do the powder
coat paint for an addl $250.
Anyhow, it works like a dream, extremely simple to assemble and is just a
wonderful item to have for someone feeling unsafe with jack stands (I live
in Earthquake country). Again - no personal interest in the product just a
happy customer. Randy ('66 BJ8)
From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2000 11:40:29 -0700
Subject: Re: Kwik Lift - A very cool item
Yes. The rear legs are attached to the ramp on a spring loaded hinge and
then when set in the down position they are pinned in place as a safety
measure. but, when a load is on the legs they are actually canted back
(away from the car) and resting on a solid steel bar. It appears to me that
it would be impossible for the legs to accidently fold up or fail unless 1.
the safety pin was pulled out and 2. the entire unit was un-weighted
suddenly which of course can't happen with a 2300 pound car sitting on it.
Randy
> Randy,
> I was interested in this product, I was however a little shaky on
> the rear leg design, however its hard to tell from the photos, are the
rear
> legs REALLY STABLE, I mean if the car got shoved while on the rack?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Coop1 [mailto:coop1@dnai.com]
> Sent: Thursday, August 03, 2000 1:20 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Kwik Lift - A very cool item
>
>
>
> An unsolicited - unpaid testimonial follows
>
> A few months ago I posted asking how you folks safely get under your
> Healeys, given the low slung nature of these beasts. No garage in my town
> would even consider letting me rent time on their lift. I'm scared to
death
> of jack stands, a neighbor was nearly killed a ways back when his Ferrari
> landed on his chest.
>
> One good recommendation was the KwikLift ramp system. I checked it out on
> the web http://www.kwiklift.com/
> and decided that this was the perfect (but a bit costly) solution for me.
> It arrived this week and I just wanted to let you know that this is a
> wonderful product - if you can afford it and the minimal space needed.
I'll
> use it as a permanent parking spot in my garage and just elevate it when
> needed.
> I bought the bare bones non-painted variety. It probably does need some
> kind of protective coating (Rustoleum would do) or have them do the powder
> coat paint for an addl $250.
> Anyhow, it works like a dream, extremely simple to assemble and is just a
> wonderful item to have for someone feeling unsafe with jack stands (I live
> in Earthquake country). Again - no personal interest in the product just
a
> happy customer. Randy ('66 BJ8)
>
>
>
>
>
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2000 15:25:16 EDT
Subject: Re: Monterey Historics
In a message dated 8/3/00 9:43:35 AM, healeybn7@yahoo.com writes:
<< My weekend typically looks like this:
Friday am: Drive up
Friday: Cannery Row to watch the parade of cars
Saturday: Races
Saturday Night: Auction/Cannery Row
Sunday: Very very eary to Pebble Beach to watch the
cars unload and back to the races.
Sunday: Drive back home
Hope to see you there,
Dean
BN7 >>
Good schedule to prevent burn-out (of owner or of car, sitting in traffic).
Couple of additional comments:
If you are driving any kind of hobby car to Monterey, then consider
participating in the rolling concours in Pacific Grove, rather than just
watching them go by on Cannery Row. Cars assemble on Lighthouse Avenue in
Pacific Grove before leaving at 6 pm on their tour, so you can see them there
in an informal car show in the afternoon (last year we wound up grabbing a
window table in a restaurant on the main drag about five pm and having the
cars entertain us during supper.
RM Auction at the Monterey Doubletree is probably the least expensive car
event going. Cars are on display at the hotel on Friday and Saturday
afternoons and auctioned off in the evenings from about 7 to about 11. I
think an admission bracelet is about ten dollars (mark of distinction is
having the most admission bracelets for different events -- you'll see people
with five, six, or more).
If you don't mind sitting in a little traffic on Sunday morning, a very cheap
and fun thing to do is to get to Seventeen mile drive about 6 am -- you
should be able to get parked in an area near enough to walk to Pebble Beach
Lodge (get a good detailed map of the area -- Del Monte Forest is a very
complicated place). From about six am they start unloading the cars from the
trucks on the polo field near the lodge, and then drive them over to the
lodge. You get to see them close-up, being cleaned, started and driven.
It's like watching the elephants unload at the circus when we were young, and
it costs absolutely nothing -- once they're on the field, its a hundred bucks
a ticket.
When the cars are all gone, then drive to Laguna Seca for the races. You'll
still be stuck in traffic, but the only alternative is to go to the track
before 8 am.
Cheers
Gary
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2000 15:48:43 EDT
Subject: Re: Kwik Lift - A very cool item
In a message dated 8/3/00 1:41:23 PM Eastern Daylight Time, coop1@dnai.com
writes:
<< One good recommendation was the KwikLift ramp system. I checked it out on
the web http://www.kwiklift.com/
and decided that this was the perfect (but a bit costly) solution for me.
It arrived this week and I just wanted to let you know that this is a
wonderful product - if you can afford it and the minimal space needed. I'll
use it as a permanent parking spot in my garage and just elevate it when
needed. >>
Randy--
I don't know whether or not it was you that I recommended the KwikLift to,
but I am most happy with mine, and although parking at an angle may at first
seem a bit disconcerting you will get used to it.
Perhaps the main reason that I like the unit is that it is no big deal to get
the car up and roll under it with a creper. It takes about 2-3 minutes and
as you say there is no screwing around with jackstands, etc. I opted to buy
two of the cross braces so that I could if I want to get the car entirely off
its wheels while still on the lift, but in retrospect I think this was a
waste.
I'm glad you're glad!
Michael Oritt, BN1
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2000 15:50:54 EDT
Subject: Re: Kwik Lift - A very cool item
In a message dated 8/3/00 2:34:26 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
fjscheuble@hiserv-na.com writes:
<< are the rear legs REALLY STABLE, I mean if the car got shoved while on the
rack? >>
Absolutely--and if you are still worried you could always put a jackstand
under the rails (sorta like wearing two condoms in case the first fell
off....)
Michael Oritt, BN1
From "Scheuble, Fred J. ,HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2000 16:07:49 -0400
Subject: LEAD EAST
Is anyone on the list planning to attend the Lead East show in Northern NJ
in Sept?
From "Ron Yates" <dipstickdigest at ctaz.com>
Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2000 14:28:41 -0700
Subject: Re: Bikini Clad Healey
Gary, et al
The Bikini clad Healey that had the lists a buzz a couple of days ago is
now available through the auspices of a fellow editor, and can be seen on
the website of the Arizona Social Society of Healey Owners and Latent
Entrepreneurs. No photo credits are given in an effort to protect whomever.
Go to: www.ctaz.com/~dipstickdigest/index.html
Click on the link BIKINI
Pleasant viewing.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2000 14:28:54 -0700
Subject: Re: Kwik Lift - A very cool item
Yes it was you - and I owe you a dept of gratitude. Great idea. I don't know
why the Rod guys get all the good stuff. The owner of the company says that
he's so busy building them for hot rodders he never even thought about the
sportscar guys. You think our Healeys are low to the ground, think about
those Italian junkies. Randy
>
> In a message dated 8/3/00 1:41:23 PM Eastern Daylight Time, coop1@dnai.com
> writes:
>
> << One good recommendation was the KwikLift ramp system. I checked it out
on
> the web http://www.kwiklift.com/
> and decided that this was the perfect (but a bit costly) solution for me.
> It arrived this week and I just wanted to let you know that this is a
> wonderful product - if you can afford it and the minimal space needed.
I'll
> use it as a permanent parking spot in my garage and just elevate it when
> needed. >>
>
> Randy--
>
> I don't know whether or not it was you that I recommended the KwikLift to,
> but I am most happy with mine, and although parking at an angle may at
first
> seem a bit disconcerting you will get used to it.
>
> Perhaps the main reason that I like the unit is that it is no big deal to
get
> the car up and roll under it with a creper. It takes about 2-3 minutes
and
> as you say there is no screwing around with jackstands, etc. I opted to
buy
> two of the cross braces so that I could if I want to get the car entirely
off
> its wheels while still on the lift, but in retrospect I think this was a
> waste.
>
> I'm glad you're glad!
>
> Michael Oritt, BN1
>
From BGAHC at aol.com
Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2000 17:41:19 EDT
Subject: Re: Bikini Clad Healey
Damn Ron, I did a web page also!! Check mine out as well as Ron's at <A
HREF="http://hometown.aol.com/bgahc/HealeyBabes.html";>Bluegrass - Healey
Babes.</A> I created an index page also so that we can get away from all this
Silicone/DOT 4 talk and concentrate on what is important. Send me you photos!
Jim Werner
>
> The Bikini clad Healey that had the lists a buzz a couple of days ago
is
> now available through the auspices of a fellow editor, and can be seen on
> the website of the Arizona Social Society of Healey Owners and Latent
> Entrepreneurs. No photo credits are given in an effort to protect whomever.
>
> Go to: www.ctaz.com/~dipstickdigest/index.html
>
> Click on the link BIKINI
>
> Pleasant viewing.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
1957 BN4 Rally Car
1966 BJ8
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Thu, 03 Aug 2000 18:04:05 -0400
Subject: Re: Bikini Clad Healey
Definitely a... "Bruce line 2" ....the standard p.a. announcement for such
events around Precision Sportscar.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Ron Yates wrote:
> Gary, et al
>
> The Bikini clad Healey that had the lists a buzz a couple of days ago is
> now available through the auspices of a fellow editor, and can be seen on
> the website of the Arizona Social Society of Healey Owners and Latent
> Entrepreneurs. No photo credits are given in an effort to protect whomever.
>
> Go to: www.ctaz.com/~dipstickdigest/index.html
>
> Click on the link BIKINI
>
> Pleasant viewing.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
From "RR Moss" <rr_moss at hotmail.com>
Date: Thu, 03 Aug 2000 22:28:05 GMT
Subject: A Big Thanks
Hello List Members,
I would like to thank Russ and Jan Staub for their generous gift of The
Authentic Restoration guide 'Austin-Healey 100/100-6/3000', a signed copy no
less from the authors Gary and Roger and I'm sure Martin and Peter will
enjoy their copy.
This was in response to having them over for the evening with two other
couples of like minded interests (Austin-Healey owners of course) to talk of
our Healey experiences and travels, as they passed through Christchurch, New
Zealand on their trip around the South Island (Healey Paradise).
It was a privilege to have met them and I only hope they enjoyed their time
here. I do not have their e-mail address but I know Russ lurks on the 'list'
somewhere.
Any other Healey owners who are planning to pass this way, please feel free
to contact us.
Ralph Roden,
Leona May.
Austin-Healey Car Club, New Zealand.
WestGermanExportCarRegister
________________________________________________________________________
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Thu, 03 Aug 2000 15:48:08 -0700
Subject: '65 Targa Florio on Speedvision
Well the satellite schedule said it was supposed to be superbikes, but I
just caught the Legends show and it was the Targa Florio. Mostly shots of
the Italian marques, but a few passing shots of a big Healey, and a topless
green Sprite.
Bill Katz
Bay Area, CA
'67 BJ8
'94 325is
http://www.handsonresearch.com/healey
From "RR Moss" <rr_moss at hotmail.com>
Date: Thu, 03 Aug 2000 23:44:37 GMT
Subject: Horn Flash
Perhaps the horn button has been changed by a P.O. for a Sprite MkI as it's
just the flash.
Ralph.
>>Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 08:51:17 -0400
>>From: "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik@unisys.com>
>>Subject: RE: Flash or no Flash
>>My 61 BN7 has the Flash on the horn button.. but no small 6 in a
>> >>circle??
>>We seem to be getting confused here. the 100/6 button had the flash >>with
>>100
>>superimposed upon it and a very small 6 in a circle
>>The 3000 button just had the flash and the same very small 6 in the
>> >>circle.
>>Hi Stephen,
>>If you hornbutton has no "6" on it it is the first that I have heard >>of,
>>but
>>strange things do happen.
>>the 6 is normally on the middle of the very short leg of the three >>leg
>>of the flash.
>>>Regards,
>Mike Salter
________________________________________________________________________
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2000 20:21:56 EDT
Subject: Flashs, yes orno.
I got seven responses to my question regarding whether the early 3000s had a
3000 flash on the boot lid or not. The responses I got don't help much.
840 - Yes, had a 3000 flash
862 - No, didn't
1039 - no
1173 - no
1281 - yes
1405 - no
2115 - no
a few people with higher numbers, but still 1959-produced cars said their
cars did have the flash. Go figure.
Just to drive us all crazier, I'd be interested in the car number of any
early 3000, that is, with a car number prefix of HBN7 or HBT7, that had a
100-six flash on the front grille.
Also, interested in the car number of any BN7/BT7 that had a horn button with
the number 100 and the number 6 on the horn button, or with a horn button
painted completely black.
Thanks for your help. This may not lead us anywhere, but what the heck.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Thu, 03 Aug 2000 20:42:53 -0400
Subject: Re: A Big Thanks
I can second that. Ralph, Leona and the other members of the Club in
Christchurch treated us royally during a visit in Feb 2000.
Thanks again guys.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
RR Moss wrote:
> Hello List Members,
>
> I would like to thank Russ and Jan Staub for their generous gift of The
> Authentic Restoration guide 'Austin-Healey 100/100-6/3000', a signed copy no
> less from the authors Gary and Roger and I'm sure Martin and Peter will
> enjoy their copy.
>
> This was in response to having them over for the evening with two other
> couples of like minded interests (Austin-Healey owners of course) to talk of
> our Healey experiences and travels, as they passed through Christchurch, New
> Zealand on their trip around the South Island (Healey Paradise).
>
> It was a privilege to have met them and I only hope they enjoyed their time
> here. I do not have their e-mail address but I know Russ lurks on the 'list'
> somewhere.
>
> Any other Healey owners who are planning to pass this way, please feel free
> to contact us.
>
> Ralph Roden,
> Leona May.
> Austin-Healey Car Club, New Zealand.
> WestGermanExportCarRegister
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
From "Eugene R. Montresor" <ermontresor at snet.net>
Date: Thu, 03 Aug 2000 22:22:40 -0400
Subject: horn/direction indicator control assembly
thanks to all for the great info on disassembly..a couple of beers
later...job was complete..worked like a charm. Great advise to slid the
lever to the side the wires are being changed..caution with the brown
wire terminal eventhough the level was in position it did not hold it
from falling into hole (almost). gene
From MOWOGMAN at aol.com
Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2000 22:37:12 EDT
Subject: It runs! it runs!
Tonight after owning my BT7 for almost 6 years, tearing it completely apart,
having it live on a rotisserie for a year or so, painstakingly putting it
back together, I attempted the initial start.............
I already knew I had oil pressure
I got gas to appear at the carbs
I had brakes (don't ask if it's silicone or not!)
I have a clutch, exhaust, tires, etc.
I turned on the key
punched the "s" button
and it started right away!!!
wow!
sounds good
drove it up and down the drive way.
shifts, stops, turns, etc.
Wow!
now, must paint and refit body
re inspired,
John
Oostburg, WI
'60 BT7
'60 Mini
'80 TR7 (freshly repainted Carmine red!)
'69 AA
'57 Isetta
Etc.
From "S.HUTCHINGS" <hutching at myna.com>
Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2000 23:10:30 -0400
Subject: Strange noise-update
Hi ,again, Mike. I guess you missed one of my posts, so I'll tackle your
questions one by one.
It does sound like the sound comes from the spark plug side, especially
from within the car(behind the wheel)...but that is "sounds like".
I'm going to try turning the engine with all the rocker gear off tomorrow,
but I want to take out the push rods and lifters because I don't like the
idea of them moving around without being held by the rockers.
I revised my opinion about #8 valve when I used the stethescope...with the
stethescope I was pretty sure it was 11 or 12....and yes, I could hear the
noise with the ignition disconnected, but it was very hard to pin point
with the steth under these conditions. I suggest you don't go to too much
trouble thinking, until I can report what happens tomorrow, and I try some
basics, like a compression check,
and turning the engine looking for binding.....
and work my way up.
Thanks again, Stephen
From John Trifari <john4 at home.com>
Date: Thu, 03 Aug 2000 09:23:33 -0700
Subject: Golden Gate Austin-Healey Club Event Alert
GOLDEN GATE AUSTIN-HEALEY CLUB EVENT ALERT
Tour to Donald Healey Memorial Grove in Big Basin
Date: Sunday August 13
Time: 10:30AM
Jim and Ida Morton are hosting a tour over Highway 9 to the Donald
Healey memorial Grove in Big Basin. Starting point will be in the
Bruners Furniture parking lot at the intersection of Hamilton Avenue and
Highway 17.
We will be leaving the lot at 10:30am traveling through Los Gatos and
Saratoga on Highway 9 to Boulder Creek then on to Big Basin. Driving
time should be (1) hour to (1-1/2) hours from
Bruners.
Everyone should bring a lunch and goodies for a nice day among the tall
trees. There are plenty of hiking trails and other things to see, so
plan on a full day with friends and family. On our way out, each may
choose to return the way we came or one of three other ways home. I
will provide directions at lunch should anyone need them.
Jim & Ida Morton
408-259-1032
jimNidaMorton@aol.com
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Thu, 03 Aug 2000 22:48:40 -0500
Subject: Re: Bikini Clad Healey
Jim
Loved the BIG KNOCKERS but wonder whether the Colonel would charm the
"bird" - just a little north of 49th humour.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
BGAHC@aol.com wrote:
>
> Damn Ron, I did a web page also!! Check mine out as well as Ron's at <A
> HREF="http://hometown.aol.com/bgahc/HealeyBabes.html";>Bluegrass - Healey
> Babes.</A> I created an index page also so that we can get away from all this
> Silicone/DOT 4 talk and concentrate on what is important. Send me you photos!
>
> Jim Werner
>
> >
> > The Bikini clad Healey that had the lists a buzz a couple of days ago
> is
> > now available through the auspices of a fellow editor, and can be seen on
> > the website of the Arizona Social Society of Healey Owners and Latent
> > Entrepreneurs. No photo credits are given in an effort to protect whomever.
> >
> > Go to: www.ctaz.com/~dipstickdigest/index.html
> >
> > Click on the link BIKINI
> >
> > Pleasant viewing.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim Werner
> Louisville, KY
> 1957 BN4 Rally Car
> 1966 BJ8
From "Josef Eckert" <Josef.Eckert at t-mobil.de>
Date: 4 Aug 2000 07:36:20 +0000
Subject: BN1 trim fitting
Fiddling at the trim of my 100 BN1 I have two questions to the experts:
1st: I bought a full carpet set at AH Spares and I was surprised how well it
fit. The only point which puzzles me, the carpet material for the gear
box cover just covers the top and the sides left and right of the
cover, leaving a blank gap at the rear of the cover (transmission
side). Is this part covered by vinyl or carpet originally?. I expect
vinyl, as I got a piece of vinyl with the cover set.
2nd: The battery box lid is fixed originally with two vinyl/lether straps
to the rear heel board panel. How do these 2 straps look like (shape)?
They are not with the rear deck trim kit.
And a last question to the very experts:
In the rear heal booard are two small screw holes, 1 above the hole for the
spare wheel and one on the other side to the master switch box. For what reason
are these two screw holes (diameter about 1/4"). I have seen them on other 100s
as well.
Thanks to the experts for any help.
Josef Eckert, Germany, 54, BN1
From "Douglas W. Flagg" <dwflagg at juno.com>
Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2000 08:24:15 -0400
Subject: Re: Loss
I received a call last night from Paula Rounds to let me know that her
husband Gordy, a friend and long time Healey enthusiast, had passed away
on July 24th after a long and heroic battle with cancer. Gordy was a
wonderful person who often contributed his artistic talent and humor to
both Chatter and Austin Healey magazines. Paula informed me that Gordy's
car, a '67 BJ8 would be offered for sale. It is a German export version
with the original locking steering column lock. The color is a
non-original blue with a tan interior and top, having an original factory
style luggage rack, 72 spoke chrome wire wheels, and a wood steering
wheel. This is a beautiful car that was meticulously maintained. The car
is currently located on the west coast. If you may have an interest
please contact me of the net. Thanks.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2000 09:53:26 -0400
Subject: RE: It runs! it runs!
Congratulations... I know exactly how you feel.. I've been working on a
XK120 and just did the same thing last weekend... sounds like we are at
about the same stage...
Steve Kocik
61 BN7
50 XK120
-----Original Message-----
From: MOWOGMAN@aol.com [mailto:MOWOGMAN@aol.com]
Sent: Thursday, August 03, 2000 10:37 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: It runs! it runs!
Tonight after owning my BT7 for almost 6 years, tearing it completely apart,
having it live on a rotisserie for a year or so, painstakingly putting it
back together, I attempted the initial start.............
I already knew I had oil pressure
I got gas to appear at the carbs
I had brakes (don't ask if it's silicone or not!)
I have a clutch, exhaust, tires, etc.
I turned on the key
punched the "s" button
and it started right away!!!
wow!
sounds good
drove it up and down the drive way.
shifts, stops, turns, etc.
Wow!
now, must paint and refit body
re inspired,
John
Oostburg, WI
'60 BT7
'60 Mini
'80 TR7 (freshly repainted Carmine red!)
'69 AA
'57 Isetta
Etc.
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2000 11:42:44 EDT
Subject: LBC Tire Comparison Chart?
Hi,
I've had a second case of belt separation on my 165 SR 15 Dunlop SP4 Radials
in three months, so its time to put on new tires. The tires only have 8,000
miles on them, but are about 10 years old - PO owner only drove it 500 miles
in nine years. Guess old tires give out even if lots of tread left.
Any way, I'd like to put on something that puts a little more tread on the
road 'cause I've had the rear end break loose a couple of times when not
cornering all that fast. I'm constrained by the 4" 48 spoke wheels. Was
thinking of going to 175 SR15 radials and would like to know the difference
in rolling diameter.
I remember seeing a comparison chart for various size 15 inch tires either in
a past issue of Austin Healey Magazine or on the Healey list. I checked the
AHM article index and didn't see what I'm looking for.
Does anyone know an Internet site that has this tire comparison for AH type
tires? Thanks for any help.
John
100-Six Erika the Red
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2000 14:16:30 EDT
Subject: Re: It runs! it runs!
In a message dated 8/3/00 7:50:19 PM, MOWOGMAN@aol.com writes:
<<
I turned on the key
punched the "s" button
and it started right away!!!
wow!
sounds good
drove it up and down the drive way.
shifts, stops, turns, etc. >>
Congratulations. Pass out the cigars. Can't think of any more exciting
point in a guy's life except for witnessing the birth of his child (actually,
I only have first-hand experience on the rebirth of a Healey, but the latter
thrill on good report). Fantastic to have everything actually work out
exactly the way it's supposed to.
Cheers
Gary
From "Michael Lempert" <mdlempert at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2000 14:58:03 -0400
Subject: Re: Status - 3.50 Gear Sets
Since the status I sent out on 7/19, we have received another 6 orders,
bringing the total to 57. Orders have slowed considerably, which I suppose
should be expected as we near the 100 goal. Perhaps once new advertising
reaches other Healey populations - like Reid's blurb in Austin Healey
Magazine - we'll see the numbers pick up again.
I've included a new list of participants; should my records be incorrect,
please advise. Also attached to the bottom is the information we have
learned so far.
Regards,
Mike L.
Commitments:
2 Mike Lempert
1 Jim Smith
1 Robert Barback
1 Dr. Carl Rubino
2 John Vrugtman
1 Jack Jakobsen
1 Ray Juncal
2 Bob McElwee
1 John Heffron
1 Roland Wilhelmy
2 Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
1 Mark Fawcett
1 Fred Scheuble
1 Colin O'Brien
2 Skip Saunders
1 John Loftus
1 Reid Trummel
1 Marshall Dixon
1 Alfred Haymond
1 Jim Cox
1 Bill Wycoff
1 Bob Spidell
11 Bob Yule
1 Pete Pollock
1 Dave Bowers
1 Steve Byers
2 Ed-JustBrits
1 Bob Dobrowski
1 Richard J. Hockert
1 Greg Poorten
1 Bruce Starke
1 Al Toepfer
2 Joe Smathers
1 Ed Santoro
1 Jerry Slater
1 Ed Driver
1 Bob Judd
1 Randy Hicks
1 Bob Bridger
1 Mike Blair
Total = 57
>
> To summarize once again, the new sets, ring and pinion gears, will be a
> 12/42 pin configuration - providing a 3.5 ratio. The original sets were
> 11/39, providing a 3.54
> ratio. The price is $220. US plus shipping.
>
> The new gears will need to be installed in your existing housings. Much
> care needs to be given to ensure proper alignment of the teeth. Improper
> alignment would result in increased noise and wear. I hope to be able to
> include instructions with the gears.
>
> Speedometers will need to be recalibrated due to the new rear end
atio. -
> Not that many are accurate anyway - Who knows, maybe some will be
> corrected by the change.
>
> These units will fit all Big Healeys with the exception of the early BN1s
> with the spiral bevel gears.
>
> Once I have the necessary 100 set commitment, I'll need to go into
> contract. At that point I'll need to put up 50%, so I'll require that of
> all participants as well. Final payment will be required prior to
shipment.
>
> Once I have entered into contract, the manufacturer will produce a
> prototype from the measurements already taken. Then they will install it
in
> a housing for fit and performance testing. I will need to provide them
with
> the complete rear units for the testing. I may need some assistance from
> you folks if it's necessary to test in more than one rear end
configuration,
> i.e. 100 & 3000.
>
> I'll keep you informed of progress.
>
> Regards,
> Mike Lempert
>
>
>
From "Ross Maylor" <obiedog at telusplanet.net>
Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2000 14:18:18 -0600
Subject: Re: It runs! it runs!
Gary wrote:
(actually, I only have first-hand experience on the rebirth of a Healey,
but the latter thrill on good report).
Gary its never to late!! And then you will have a good excuse to by and
restore an Austin J40 pedal car.
Ross Maylor
BN6, TR6, Landrover, Austin J40, new baby and a very happy wife!
From BGAHC at aol.com
Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2000 16:34:04 EDT
Subject: Re: LBC Tire Comparison Chart?
John,
The subject comes up often enough (but not as often as silicone Vs DOT 4)
that I did a web page with the findings of the list. Check it out at <A
HREF="http://members.aol.com/BGAHC/bluegrasstireinfo.html";>Bluegrass - Tire
Info.</A> Adnan really did some research on the subject and has some great
information.
Usually boils down to buying Dunlop SP 20 in 165 from tire rack or Michelin
175 from one of the other tire suppliers.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
1957 BN4 Rally Car
1966 BJ8
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2000 16:44:27 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: LBC Tire Comparison Chart?
John
I think the general concensis was Dunlop SP20 - the most modern itteration of
the Dunlop Radial.
I'd be careful at putting anything wider than 165s on 4" rims. And your 48
spokers are quite flexible and fragile for a 100-6. This might be a good time
to try to locate a set of good 60 spokers.
regards,
DickB
---- you wrote:
>
>
> Hi,
> I've had a second case of belt separation on my 165 SR 15 Dunlop SP4 Radials
> in three months, so its time to put on new tires. The tires only have 8,000
> miles on them, but are about 10 years old - PO owner only drove it 500 miles
> in nine years. Guess old tires give out even if lots of tread left.
> Any way, I'd like to put on something that puts a little more tread on the
> road 'cause I've had the rear end break loose a couple of times when not
> cornering all that fast. I'm constrained by the 4" 48 spoke wheels. Was
> thinking of going to 175 SR15 radials and would like to know the difference
> in rolling diameter.
> I remember seeing a comparison chart for various size 15 inch tires either in
> a past issue of Austin Healey Magazine or on the Healey list. I checked the
> AHM article index and didn't see what I'm looking for.
> Does anyone know an Internet site that has this tire comparison for AH type
> tires? Thanks for any help.
> John
> 100-Six Erika the Red
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2000 16:58:32 EDT
Subject: Re: LBC Tire Comparison Chart?
In a message dated 8/4/00 4:46:47 PM Eastern Daylight Time, BGAHC@aol.com
writes:
<< Usually boils down to buying Dunlop SP 20 in 165 from tire rack or
Michelin
175 from one of the other tire suppliers. >>
Jim--You are a neverending source of information! What do you do during the
DAY?
BTW, on my recent trip out to Indy from the DC area I ran with two other
Healeys, one of which had 175's (I have the SP20's). Consistently, I turned
about 3 more miles per tank of fuel than did his car, so it just shows to go
ya!
A further BTW--I have a perfect set of 48-spoke Dunlop wheels w/ SP5's, four
brand new (probably less than 100 miles) and the 5th with a little more wear
but still lots of tread. They would be great for a prospective Concours car.
$250 plus shipping.
Best--Michael
From "RL Chrysler" <lchrysl at fhs.csu.McMaster.CA>
Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2000 17:32:55 -0400
Subject: Re: BN1 trim fitting
Josef wrote:
> Fiddling at the trim of my 100 BN1 I have two questions to the experts:
> 1st: I bought a full carpet set at AH Spares and I was surprised how well
it
> fit. The only point which puzzles me, the carpet material for the
gear
> box cover just covers the top and the sides left and right of the
> cover, leaving a blank gap at the rear of the cover (transmission
> side). Is this part covered by vinyl or carpet originally?. I
expect
> vinyl, as I got a piece of vinyl with the cover set.
The rear edge of the carpet is bound with vinyl, and vinyl is also glued
around the rear edge of metal, following the awkward step down which takes
place here. The plateau where the gear lever protrudes from is also trimmed
in vinyl.
> 2nd: The battery box lid is fixed originally with two vinyl/lether straps
> to the rear heel board panel. How do these 2 straps look like (shape)?
They are about 1" wide and come down to almost a point at the ends. These
use lift-a-dot fasteners.
> They are not with the rear deck trim kit.
> And a last question to the very experts:
> In the rear heal booard are two small screw holes, 1 above the hole for
the
> spare wheel and one on the other side to the master switch box. For what
reason
> are these two screw holes (diameter about 1/4"). I have seen them on other
100s
> as well.
I don't think anyone knows for sure, but it is thought by some to be a pair
of jig fixture holes for when the original metal was positioned, shaped, and
welded.
Not an expert, but have been there a couple of times
Rich Chrysler
> Thanks to the experts for any help.
>
> Josef Eckert, Germany, 54, BN1
>
From "Alan Schultz" <aschultz at uwsa.edu>
Date: Fri, 04 Aug 2000 16:53:53 -0500
Subject: [Fwd: Silicone Brake Fluid]
-------- Original Message --------
Subject: Silicone Brake Fluid
Date: Fri, 04 Aug 2000 16:49:26 -0500
From: Alan Schultz <aschultz@uwsa.edu>
To: major <majordomo@autox.team.net>
Thanks to all who gave me advise on using silicone brake fluid. I intend
to fill the reservoir with it. I had heard that it would swell the
rubber parts but tested that by measuring the parts before and after
placing them in a cup of silicone fluid. Did not experience swelling but
had some shrinkage after a week.
Alan BJ8 Wife hasn't named it yet.
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2000 16:53:35 -0500
Subject: Re: LBC Tire Comparison Chart?
hi john-
if memory serves me correctly, the 175x15 is a shade taller than the original
590x15 dunlop roadspeed, however, i believe you will need at least a 5 or 5.5
inch rim width which would necessitate either 72 spoke wires or minilites.
i've run the 175x15 michelin from british wire wheel on my bn6 since 1992.
since then, the healey has been to the west coast several times,
breckinridge,co., florida, chicago several times, utah and numerous healey
roundups all over texas.
erika the red looks gorgeous on the latest cover of ah magazine !! great pic !!
happy healeying,
jerry wall
----- Original Message -----
From: JSoderling@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: LBC Tire Comparison Chart?
Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2000 11:42:44 EDT
Hi,
I've had a second case of belt separation on my 165 SR 15 Dunlop SP4 Radials
in three months, so its time to put on new tires. The tires only have 8,000
miles on them, but are about 10 years old - PO owner only drove it 500 miles
in nine years. Guess old tires give out even if lots of tread left.
Any way, I'd like to put on something that puts a little more tread on the
road 'cause I've had the rear end break loose a couple of times when not
cornering all that fast. I'm constrained by the 4" 48 spoke wheels. Was
thinking of going to 175 SR15 radials and would like to know the difference
in rolling diameter.
I remember seeing a comparison chart for various size 15 inch tires either in
a past issue of Austin Healey Magazine or on the Healey list. I checked the
AHM article index and didn't see what I'm looking for.
Does anyone know an Internet site that has this tire comparison for AH type
tires? Thanks for any help.
John
100-Six Erika the Red
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2000 18:56:06 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: [Fwd: Silicone Brake Fluid]
Alan
We should nail your post up on the garage wall.
BTW it made me think of one of my favorite Seinfeld episodes - Shrinkage.
DickB
---- you wrote:
>
>
>
> -------- Original Message --------
> Subject: Silicone Brake Fluid
> Date: Fri, 04 Aug 2000 16:49:26 -0500
> From: Alan Schultz <aschultz@uwsa.edu>
> To: major <majordomo@autox.team.net>
>
> Thanks to all who gave me advise on using silicone brake fluid. I intend
> to fill the reservoir with it. I had heard that it would swell the
> rubber parts but tested that by measuring the parts before and after
> placing them in a cup of silicone fluid. Did not experience swelling but
> had some shrinkage after a week.
>
> Alan BJ8 Wife hasn't named it yet.
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2000 19:34:22 EDT
Subject: Re: [Fwd: Silicone Brake Fluid]
In a message dated 8/4/00 4:15:00 PM, dickb@cheerful.com writes:
<<
BTW it made me think of one of my favorite Seinfeld episodes - Shrinkage.
DickB >>
but the water WAS cold!
Cheers
Gary
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2000 19:41:01 EDT
Subject: Re: [Fwd: Silicone Brake Fluid] shrinkage
In a message dated 8/4/00 16:39:07, Editorgary@aol.com writes:
<< <<
BTW it made me think of one of my favorite Seinfeld episodes - Shrinkage.
DickB >>
but the water WAS cold!
Cheers
Gary
>>
"like a frightened turtle..."
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2000 20:02:57 EDT
Subject: Re: LBC Tire Comparison Chart?
In a message dated 08/04/2000 4:55:53 PM Central Daylight Time,
jwbn6@iopener.net writes:
<< chicago several times, >>
Boy, ain't THAT the "truth", Jerry!!!!
Ain't it gettin' time for you, Kellner and Don to have a ROAD TRIP (as per
movie)???
Cheers............
Ed
PS: Judy is NOT allowed to be with group as she KNOWS I am in LOVE with her!!
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2000 20:15:52 EDT
Subject: Re: LBC Tire Comparison Chart?
Roger,
Thanks for your interest.
Both times (two months ago and then yesterday) the front end started bouncing
like I had lost the wheel weights on one of the front tire.
The first time it felt like a right front tire, and after checking for
missing wheel weights and broken spokes, I jacked up the car and spun each
wheel looking for a wire wheel out of true. Nothing. So then I had a friend
drive along side of me on a smooth asphalt section of freeway and look and at
each tire traveling at 50 MPH. He could easily see the LEFT REAR tire
bouncing, which felt like the right front through the steering wheel. I then
examined the left rear tire very closely and found a hump in the tread about
5 to 6 inches long and 1/4 inch deep. Looked like a slight steel belt
separation, but enough to make the car bound violently.
Yesterday, I had a pretty good idea of the problem and sure enough, on the
left front tire there is a circular bulge about 3 inches in diameter with a 1
inch tear in the center of the tread.
Fortunately neither tire blew out. Although the tires only have 8,000 miles
on them, they are 10 years old and I'm assuming that is the problem. I know
little about tires so I could be all wet on the cause. I did run over a 4
inch curb at about 5 MPH on that side about 7 months ago.
I'd be interested in what others think.
John
100-Six Erika the Red
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2000 20:19:25 EDT
Subject: Tire Comparison Question
Thanks to everyone who responded. I've decided to take the collective advice
and stay with the 165 SR 15 size on my 48's.
John
100-Six Erika the red
From BGAHC at aol.com
Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2000 21:27:06 EDT
Subject: Healey Babe Update
So far my Healey Babe site has received 528 hits in the first 24 hours. (Plus
remember Ron has a site also.)
Any theories on what this has to say about the list members?
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
1957 BN4 Rally Car
1966 BJ8
From "RL Chrysler" <lchrysl at fhs.csu.McMaster.CA>
Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2000 22:10:46 -0400
Subject: New Member of the Family
Hi folks,
I just had to share the news. My good wife and I just made a purchase of a
nice project car for ourselves.
The new member of the family is a July 1954 Austin Healey BN1. The car was,
and will be once again a black car with two tone red and orange interior.
The car is totally dismantled but complete and in very workable condition,
with about 33000 original miles on the odometer.
The software is all original packed in boxes and cartons, and appears
innitially at least to be quite useable, including the red carpets, red
armacord bound with orange, beautiful orange leather seats, and trim panels.
Orange sidescreen stowage bag containing original red signal flap series
side curtains, red hood assembly, and a set of very good early flat pressed
hub 48 spoke wire wheels.
I will start bringing her home tomorrow (Sat. 5th)
Guess I couldn't stay without a Healey any longer, and Conclave last week
was the final push!
Rich & Lyn Chrysler
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Fri, 04 Aug 2000 20:38:49 -0700
Subject: Re: Healey Babe Update
Heck, I was there when the picture was taken. I just wanted to see
how it came out. When we stopped for gas up the road a few miles she
came walking by again. I guess she really has a thing for Healeys.
Or maybe it was a certain Healey person's smooth words of praise :-)
-Roland
On Fri, 4 Aug 2000 21:27:06 EDT, you wrote:
::
:: So far my Healey Babe site has received 528 hits in the first 24 hours.
:(Plus
:: remember Ron has a site also.)
::
:: Any theories on what this has to say about the list members?
::
:: Thanks,
::
:: Jim Werner
:: Louisville, KY
:: 1957 BN4 Rally Car
:: 1966 BJ8
From "Ron Yates" <dipstickdigest at ctaz.com>
Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2000 21:47:11 -0700
Subject: Re: Healey Babe Update
Jim, et al
I haven't received that many hits to my site, but certainly double what
it had seen as strictly a club site since it went up on the 3rd of July.
Perhaps this obsession with Healeys has us missing trhe mark entirely.
The activities this week have given me second thoughts about finishing
my BN2 and start searching, instead, for a soft, warm, pliant, bikini clad,
member of the opposite sex to keep in the garage instead of the Healey.
However; having said that I have to remind myself of the fact that I'm a
senior citizen now, and while Bikini Clads conjure all sorts of delightful
thoughts, I have to remind myself that while my brain says I'm still in my
mid-twenties my body (unfortunately) is constantly reassuring me otherwise.
Ron Yates, prez, ceo, editor (Dipstick Digest)
Arizona Social Society of Healey Owners and Latent Entrepreneurs
P.S. I guess I'll soldier on with the completion of the Healey (sigh!)
http://www.ctaz.com/~dipstickdigest/index.html
----- Original Message -----
From: <BGAHC@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 04, 2000 6:27 PM
Subject: Healey Babe Update
>
> So far my Healey Babe site has received 528 hits in the first 24 hours.
(Plus
> remember Ron has a site also.)
>
> Any theories on what this has to say about the list members?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim Werner
> Louisville, KY
> 1957 BN4 Rally Car
> 1966 BJ8
From Healey3000MKII at aol.com
Date: Sat, 5 Aug 2000 01:00:14 EDT
Subject: Re: New Member of the Family
In a message dated 08/04/2000 8:28:33 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
lchrysl@fhs.csu.McMaster.CA writes:
<< I will start bringing her home tomorrow (Sat. 5th)
Guess I couldn't stay without a Healey any longer, and Conclave last week
was the final push!
Rich & Lyn Chrysler
>>
Rich & Lyn,
Congrats on your new Healey, it sounds great..................odds are
though..............................that wasn't the "final push"
Jim
From BGAHC at aol.com
Date: Sat, 5 Aug 2000 01:17:13 EDT
Subject: Re: Healey Babe Update
The interest in the Healey Babe is showing a pattern. The Board of Directors
have reviewed the market research and noted demographic trends that show a
definite need of the public unfulfilled and have recommended an action plan
to be implemented to satisfy such needs.
We need a swimsuit issue of British Car Magazine!!! How about it Gary?
Sports Illustrated does it. I'm sure we could find volunteers to loan you
cars and help with the photography.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
1957 BN4 Rally Car
1966 BJ8
From BGAHC at aol.com
Date: Sat, 5 Aug 2000 01:33:38 EDT
Subject: Healeytoons
My web site is finally getting a much needed overhaul and should be finished
in a few weeks. Check out a preview of some of the new stuff at <A
HREF="http://hometown.aol.com/jim3000/Healeytoonsindex.html";>Bluegrass -
Healeytoons Index Page</A> . Seven pages of Healey Cartoons from my massive
clipart collection that club newsletter editors like myself treasure and
hoard. They always fill an empty spot on the page but most of all they are
fun.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
1957 BN4 Rally Car
1966 BJ8
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Sat, 5 Aug 2000 08:15:06 EDT
Subject: Re: New Member of the Family
Welcome back Rich & Lyn,
Now all you have to do is follow that little booklet you wrote, probably 15
years ago, on how to restore a Healey Hundred.
If I remember, there are about 48 paragraphs in it and I figured that if I
did one paragraph per month, I would actually finish the car! First was to
remove the gas tank. Second was to remove the battery. Third was to remove
the radiator. Fourth was to take all the parts off the car and put them in
plastic bags and mark them. I'm still on #4.
Hope you do better than me because that was back in about 1985 and she still
sits there waiting for me.
Rudy in NC
PS: In the mean time I restored my 100/6, kept the BJ8 running (now Joan's),
built a half Healey trailer and restored two Bugeyes for Kim & Craig.
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Sat, 5 Aug 2000 12:39:57 EDT
Subject: Tach drive oil leak--part two
A week or so ago I asked the List about an oil leak that developed on the way
out to Conclave: Every so often a drop of engine oil would land on my right
knee, coming out of the tach drive cable where it screws onto the tach head.
A few folks told me that I needed to replace a seal (as I suspected), that
the oil was augering up the cable.
Well, I got the seal but now where do I put it?? I pulled the drive unit
adapter off the engine--the one with a bevel gear on the bottom end and a
square female drive on the top, onto which the tach cable fastens--but I
could not figure out where the seal might go, unless it goes inside the unit
itself. There is a metal retainer with a split collar inside the top end of
the adapter, and the diameter of the body seems correct for the new seal, but
if this is the correct place then how do I pull that sucker out?
I'm running out of jeans and my old, hairless legs don't look good in used
10W-40. HELP!!
Michael Oritt, St. Leonard, MD.
1955 BN1
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sat, 5 Aug 2000 13:23:29 EDT
Subject: Re: Healey Babe Update
In a message dated 8/4/00 10:17:13 PM, BGAHC writes:
<< We need a swimsuit issue of British Car Magazine!!! How about it Gary?
Sports Illustrated does it. I'm sure we could find volunteers to loan you
cars and help with the photography.
Thanks,
Jim Werner >>
What I need are volunteers who are willing to loan a few hours of time of
their wives, girlfriends, daughters (scratch that, politically incorrect), or
next-door neighbors who are on their way to becoming Miss New Jersey. Cars I
can arrange and photography wouldn't be a problem.
Cheers
Gary
From LarryRPH at aol.com
Date: Sat, 5 Aug 2000 14:36:44 EDT
Subject: Fuel Gauge
I am determined to "fix" my Fuel gauge which gives inaccurate readings as to
"full" and "empty"
It seems that somebody went through this on the list not too long ago. Can
someone tell me:
1. how to find this in the "archives" (If it is in there)
2. How to calibrate a fuel gauge (if it is not in the archives.)
Thanks for your help!
Larry Wysocki
BN 6
BJ 7
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Sat, 5 Aug 2000 14:55:32 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Fuel Gauge
Since I recently ragged Ed Kaler for not knowing the difference between ADsorb
and ABsorb (the infamous Silicone Brake Fluid thread), I thought I would do a
pay-back.
When I was organizing myself for the Duluth Service layover day for the Around
The World Rally, Ed volunteered to take care of the oil filters.
He sorted out the interchanges and shipped me a whole box of screw-on filters -
at no charge - and I distributed them to Team Healey for the Duluth ,and Newark
oil changes. Ed's only payback was a dozen of his imprinted pens and a few
JustBrits notepads made their way to England.
I understand he has already reaped several engine jobs and a front-end
suspension overhaul just on the strength of his purple pens alone. <G> It sure
pays to be a nice guy AND ADVERTISE,
Thanks Ed
DickB
----------------------------------------------------------------
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Sat, 05 Aug 2000 15:50:51 -0400
Subject: Re: Tach drive oil leak--part two
Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 8/5/00 1:12:38 PM Eastern Daylight Time, magicare@home.com
> writes:
>
> << The split collar that you see goes on top of the seal as I recall. You
> have to
> take it out then take the seal out, install the seal, lip toward the oil
> source,
> then press the collar back in.
> I suspect that the purpose of the collar is to retain the seal which is of
> such a
> small diameter that it has a tendency to not stay put.
> -- >>
>
> My worst fears confirmed! Perhaps there will be a sale on Levis.... Do you
> have any experience on getting that piece out of there? I am afraid I might
> break it and it is probably not easily found--Thanks for the info!
>
> Michael
As I recall (again I don't have one in front of me) ....
Unscrew the big hex nut..Remove the tach drive spindle.. I have a regular blade
screwdriver with the bottom 3/16 of an inch bent over at a right angle. This I
push through the seal from the top side then jam it to one side with another
screwdriver blade. Now when you insert a parallel punch from the other end and
tap it against the bent screwdriver blade the seal and the collar will come out
relatively easily. This will of course destroy the old seal but have faith...it
does the job.
Good luck
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
From Alan Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 5 Aug 2000 22:27:06 +0100
Subject: Leaky carbs - what can I do?
Found rear carb awash with petrol (gas!) and tightened up the lid caps
and the unions. They stopped leaking, but now I have fuel dripping from
the front carb. Looks like it's coming from underneath somewhere.
The four float chamber screws underneath are in tight, though the fuel
looks to be coming out from around one of the screw-heads (petrol's a
strange fluid that seems to come from anywhere and everywhere, so not so
easy to see the source).
A couple of questions, please?
As the float chamber screws underneath are tight, but fuel is appearing
around the screws, is this a strong indicator of a punctured diaphragm?
I have assumed that fuel should only ever be above the diaphragm, never
below it. Fuel certainly fell out of the carb when I loosened all four
screws, but I assume this was now coming from above the diaphragm.
Is it possible that the fuel was emanating from a worn spindle
somewhere? As I know diddly squit about repairing carbs, does this look
like a carb shop job, or are there some things I can do myself without
getting into deep trouble? I don't want to end up unable to even limp to
a carb repairer with fuel dripping on my outlet manifold!
You guys have helped me greatly in the past - please don't lose your
enthusiasm!
T I A.
--
Alan Cross
From RAWDAWGS at aol.com
Date: Sat, 5 Aug 2000 17:33:57 EDT
Subject: test
test
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Sat, 5 Aug 2000 18:10:39 EDT
Subject: Re:
In a message dated 08/05/2000 1:57:26 PM Central Daylight Time,
dickb@cheerful.com writes:
<< Thanks Ed >>
You're welcome, Dick. BUT, THANK YOU !!
Cheers..........
Ed
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Sat, 5 Aug 2000 18:50:01 EDT
Subject: Re: Leaky carbs - what can I do?
It sounds like these are HD type carbs. The diaphragm serves as the gasket
for the bottom part of the carb body. It could be old and brittle and not
sealing.
If you are going to check things out, consider the following:
1) how long ago were the present carb bits installed (if you know)? If over
three-five years, new kits may be needed. Before ordering, check sideways
motion of the throttle shafts. If tight, you won't need new shafts. If
there is noticable play, then you will need new shafts. Get STANDARD size
ones and redo the bushes properly if they are HD6 carbs. If HD8s, you only
need to renew the nylon bushings -- the bodies will not need machining.
2) What type of float valves are installed. If the old viton type (black
conical tips), replace with Gross Jets. These are cheap, but are NOT
supplied with carb kits. You need to order thems eparately. They are easily
identified by the round, steel ball that is visible at the bottom end, which
bears against the fork. If you already have Gross jets, they could get
gummed and stick over time. DO NOT REPLACE THEM!!! Just remove and clean
with laquer thinner.
It is possible to just renew the diaphragm too. Joe Curto [718-762-7878 --
NY] sells them made of a material designed to withstand modern,
attitive-laced gasolines. He also sells carb kits, fuel pump parts and kits,
and just about anything Burlen Fuel systems offers. Joe's prices are very
fair.
Just about any of the Healey parts houses -- Just Brits, British Car
Specialists, Moss, etc. sell these fuel parts as well. You might want to ask
if their diaphragms are made of the more fuel-resistant materials. I think
the blue or khaki color ones are better than the black, blut I might have
remembered wrong.
If you take the carbs out of the car, DO clean them up. Aggressive solvents
will attack rubber gaskets, but not fibre washers. Remember that the screws
are all BA threads, so don't lose them as you'll not find correct
replacements at local hardware stores. Studlky the threads as you take
things apart to make sure someone before you lhasn't replaced with incorrect
threads and cross threaded a tapped hole. Thread repair kits can be obtained
from England, e.g. Namrick has them (as well as taps and dies).
Roger
From Bill Holt <lbcholt at one.net>
Date: Sat, 5 Aug 2000 22:48:51 -0400
Subject: Re: Healey Babe Update
>So far my Healey Babe site has received 528 hits in the first 24 hours.
(Plus
>remember Ron has a site also.)
>
>Any theories on what this has to say about the list members?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Jim Werner
I'd say it's a clear indication that other Healey sites need to think about
adding a Healey Babe or two to their sites.
Remember, man does not live on brake fluid alone.
Bill Holt
From William Moyer <William.Moyer at millersv.edu>
Date: Sat, 5 Aug 2000 23:47:21 -0400
Subject: RE: Healey Babe Update, ignore if wrench head obsessive
>So far my Healey Babe site has received 528 hits in the first 24 hours.
(Plus
>remember Ron has a site also.)
>
>Any theories on what this has to say about the list members?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Jim Werner
OK, as one of the unofficial list psychologists, I'll interpret this
phenomena.
1. Healey list suscribers (hereafter referred to as hls) are predominately
male. Males like females. Most of the time. Hls like curvy cars and other
curvy things. Many of our list members own other classic cars. I'd bet
there isn't a box among 'em.
2. Hls are dirty old men and dirty young women.
3. Hls are dirty young and old men.
4. Hls are computer literate.
5. Hls will come in if you invite them in. Remember this when I call you at
0300 hours and say that my fuel pump quit and I'm just in the next county.
On my way to Conclave.
6. Hls' reaction times are excellant.
7. Hls' were frightened by a spider when they were young and are inexorably
tied to feminine fantasies yielding an obsession with difficult to deal with
machinery. The more it hurts you, the more you like it. The more you
-neeeeed- it. This path leads to ball gags and handcuffs.
8. We were curious. I, for one, just loved the chick with the big
knockers. Call me un vouyeur. Call me in love. My grandfather raised
chicks, you don't want to be there. I was. You haven't lived until you've
poured cod liver oil down the throats of a couple of dozen chicks.
9. You've got to excuse me, but my wife has been in Alaska for a couple of
weeks and I'm not myself.
Bill, er, Bob, BJ7, Chimera
P.S. I'm in PA, USA and, by the way, Pandora is the absolute primo name for
a Healey. A container of chaos. The last thing to emerge is Hope. Sooo
Perfect!
From "John J. Black" <transmancat at bbnow.net>
Date: Sat, 5 Aug 2000 23:16:59 -0700
Subject: British car clubs
Hi Guys
I am looking for British car club details in the Sonoma valley area of
California, in particular Rohnert Park or Santa Rosa. I would like as much
detail as possible. Meeting places, dates and times etc
Thanks for the help.
Regards
John J Black
Waterloo Drivetrain Systems
http://www.waterloo-dtr.com
From "JEANNE" <jeans56ah at earthlink.net>
Date: Sat, 5 Aug 2000 21:36:53 -0700
Subject: test
only a test for posts on this list thanks:)
From RAWDAWGS at aol.com
Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 02:41:21 EDT
Subject: Ocean Shores
Has anybody posted pictures from the Healey rendezvous at Ocean Shores. I saw
a beautiful BT7 in Cannon Beach (where I am vacationing) and the straw hatted
gentleman driving spoke of a freshly painted silver Healey at the meet. As I
am headed for the paint shop after vacation, and silver over black is under
consideration I would love to see a picture. Thanks. SM.
Scott McPherson
Lake Charles, LA(currently on the Left Coast)
From Lynn and Jean Neff <lynnneff at springnet1.com>
Date: Sun, 06 Aug 2000 05:30:48 -0500
Subject: Conclave 2000 Photos
Aren't there some good souls that post Conclave photos to their site? I
have missed any mention of this from Indy.
Lynn BT7
From Alan F Cross <AlanX at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 12:13:12 +0100
Subject: Re: Leaky carbs - what can I do?
In message <j65poscgk7jj4rnphmncv66e16jc569s3m@4ax.com>, Roland Wilhelmy
<rwil@cts.com> writes
>It would probably help some people to make suggestions if you were to
>tell the list what sort of Healey you have and/or what carbs these
>are. All I know is that they aren't what I have on my BN1 (H4 carbs)
>or my BJ7 (HS6s). That leaves the BJ8s, 100-6s and non-tricarb 3000s.
>I thought that all carbs after the H4s had float bowl vents to which
>were attached tubing to take the fuel away from that hot exhaust pipe
>that is located conveniently under the carbs.
>
>I found those tubes to be very handy last week when the rear carb
>float valve jammed open and I coasted to the side of the highway...
>
>-Roland
>
>On Sat, 5 Aug 2000 22:27:06 +0100, you wrote:
>[snip]
>:: A couple of questions, please?
>[snip]
Forgot to add my Healey sig!
BJ8, 1967 with twin HD8s.
Yes, the tubes take the fuel away from the exhaust manifold IF the fuel
overflows in the float chamber (ie stuck float valve), but NOT if the
fuel is dropping out of the bottom of the carb!!
Alan F Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK
H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny"
From "Don Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 07:17:10 -0500
Subject: Healey Babe and Brake Fuid
I'd say it's a clear indication that other Healey sites need to think about
adding a Healey Babe or two to their sites.
Remember, man does not live on brake fluid alone.
Bill Holt
What kind of brake fluid, Bill, Silicone???????
(as in implants?)
Don
BN7
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 09:05:57 EDT
Subject: Re: Conclave 2000 Photos
Yes, we did take some photos. Since I am still in the Dark Ages and use a
camera. I took it to the store for developing. I did however have them print
one set and put the other on a floppy disk which I should get today. If
there is anything of interest, other than my 100/6, I'll post them shortly.
Rudy Streng
From "Sam Marble" <samncyna at netzero.net>
Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 09:25:38 -0400
Subject: Re: Leaky carbs - what can I do?
Alan:
The carbs appear to "leak" like this when the float needle vave is
worn or is not seating properly do to foreign material that may be in
the gas. This will let the float bowel over fill and fuel will over
flow.
You need to disassemble the float assembly and clean or replace the
float needle as necessary.
Sam
----- Original Message -----
From: Alan Cross <alanx@proaxis.demon.co.uk>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 05, 2000 5:27 PM
Subject: Leaky carbs - what can I do?
>
> Found rear carb awash with petrol (gas!) and tightened up the lid
caps
> and the unions. They stopped leaking, but now I have fuel dripping
from
> the front carb. Looks like it's coming from underneath somewhere.
>
> The four float chamber screws underneath are in tight, though the
fuel
> looks to be coming out from around one of the screw-heads (petrol's
a
> strange fluid that seems to come from anywhere and everywhere, so
not so
> easy to see the source).
>
> A couple of questions, please?
>
> As the float chamber screws underneath are tight, but fuel is
appearing
> around the screws, is this a strong indicator of a punctured
diaphragm?
> I have assumed that fuel should only ever be above the diaphragm,
never
> below it. Fuel certainly fell out of the carb when I loosened all
four
> screws, but I assume this was now coming from above the diaphragm.
>
> Is it possible that the fuel was emanating from a worn spindle
> somewhere? As I know diddly squit about repairing carbs, does this
look
> like a carb shop job, or are there some things I can do myself
without
> getting into deep trouble? I don't want to end up unable to even
limp to
> a carb repairer with fuel dripping on my outlet manifold!
>
> You guys have helped me greatly in the past - please don't lose your
> enthusiasm!
>
> T I A.
> --
> Alan Cross
>
____________NetZero Free Internet Access and Email_________
Download Now http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html
Request a CDROM 1-800-333-3633
___________________________________________________________
From BGAHC at aol.com
Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 11:36:11 EDT
Subject: Re: Conclave 2000 Photos
CAWS52803@aol.com writes:" Since I am still in the Dark Ages and use a
camera".
Same here Rudy. My camera still had the same film in it from Conclave 98.
America Online now offers a feature on 5.0 called "You've Got Pictures," take
you film to Walgreens and for 4.95 extra they will post them on a web page
for you also.
I'm going to give it a try. Anyone had any experience with this?
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
1957 BN4 Rally Car
1966 BJ8
Just got home from the Street Rod Nationals that are here in Louisville for
four days. (we locals go on Sunday morning and beat the crowds) 15,000 cars!
Hundreds of vendors. Incredible show and they are coming back to town for the
next ten years.
(I was the only one wearing an Austin Healey shirt.)
From "P.M. Pollock" <pollpete at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sun, 06 Aug 2000 10:41:24 -0700
Subject: Names- continued
After several day's accumulation here's what I have for car
names- twenty-one.
There likely should be at least one more as I somehow managed to
delete an unread message, so if you've sent me yours please check
to make sure it actually made it to the list and that I entered
it correctly.
I'm certain everyone enjoyed the stories behind the names as much
as did I ("Bambi" indeed). Most respondents did not address the
"talking" issue, but those that did turned it into a delightful
thread of its own. However only one of the talkers explicitly
referred to conversing with his named LBC (EditorGary, expressing
precisely my experience, I might add), so only he and I are
noted. Some of you may wish to add an addendum (or own up).
Pete Pollock
BJ7
N. California
Original intro:
Awhile back I triggered a little thread about car
gender by
referring to my BJ7 as "he". Got me musing about car
names and
wondering how many of us have named our beasts and,
like me, are
given to talking to them.
When I got my car new in '63 I started referring to it
as "the
Austin" and over the years, as I learned the value of
talking to
machinery, it became shortened to just "Austin", so
that's his
name. Pretty prosaic but I figure that, like boats, it
is apt to
be bad luck to rename your car (if only because there'd
be a
while during which it wouldn't know you're talking to
it and
would fail to follow your tender instructions). So
he's "Austin"
and he's a "he", which is not to say other Healeys
aren't
"shes". (How else would we get Sprites?)
What this is leading up to is a collected list of the
various and
sundry car names, nicknames, etc. Here's what I have
so far.
Except for mine they're all splendid. Anyone
interested send your info to be added.
Agnes
BN1
Howard Lee Young, Jr.
The Auld Banger
?
Simon Lachlan
Austin
BJ7
Pete Pollock (talker)
Babe
BN4
Greg Bankin
Bambi
BJ8
Tim Wallace
Bilbo
Sprite ("after Tolkein's hobbit")
Mike
Chimera
BJ7
Bill Moyer
"Known as "Chimera" a lion in front, a goat behind the wheel
and a snake's tail draggin' the exhaust behind. Goat's aren't
too bright."
Erika the Red
100-Six
John Soderling
Ginny
BJ8
Alan F Cross
Hortense THE Healey
BJ7
Ed Kaler
Iris
60 AN5L
Leo Speichinger
Jolly Roger, Sprytly's Big Brother
BN7
Martin Johnson
Kermit
W.R. Gibbons (deceased)
Frogeye Sprite (green, of course)
Old Red Devil
BN7
Don Yarber
"Not Yet Named" (Editor's comment: dangerous.)
BT7
Chris Woodall
Pandora
BJ8
Don Gschwind
Rachel
BN7
Gary Anderson (talker)
The Red Dragon
BJ8
Robert D.(Dragonmaster) Hughes
Ruby
BJ8
John Stevens
TARHEELY
"Has spent his whole 34 years (7 owners) here in The Tar Heel
State."
BJ8
Steve Byers
ULU
BJ8
Bob Jones
Selected comments:
* Fred Scheuble: "I've called my healey many names on
occasion but I can't print it here!"
* Howard Lee Young, Jr., Agnes: "Don't know why my Pop named
her that when he bought her in 1960,mos' pro'lly took t to
the grave with him,unless it's in the article"A Love Affair
With Agnes" that he wrote for his SCCA Reg. newspaper "Rebel
Yell".I think i asked my Mom once and she didn't know. But
Agnes was known to her competition as "# 64 E.P. She also
"showed her ass" to more than one D.P. (Oh and the other
Healeys here don't have names although the BN2 should be
called Bengt Frame........(bent frame)......and the
BJ7..."Floorless" or
Rusty................HoYo)"
* Tim Wallace, Bambi: "Old girl friend of mine came up with
that one day when she felt that I was spending too much time
with my cars and not nearly enough with her. (Read high
maintenance. The girl that is.) It all came out one day in
one of those fits that far too many of my ex-girlfriends
have. She told me, "You ought to call that thing Bambi,
because you sure spend a lot of time under it screwing
up!!!!" The bump and gash on my forehead were worth it from
the gaffaw I got from that piece of female logic. From that
time foreward Bambi she was."
* Greg Bankin, Babe: "When I first brought HER home my then
girlfriend thought I was as proud as a new father."
* Gary Anderson, Rachel: "I talked to Norman Dewis, Jaguar's
chief test driver from the fifties, just before he drove the
XJ13 up the hill at Goodwood a few weeks ago. I asked him
what he did just before a race. He said, "I talk to the car
and tell her what I expect of her. 'No messing about, a good
clean run, give it all she's got,' that sort of thing. It
does make a difference, you know, if you talk to your car."
"That's what I used to say to my wife and she's
gone. Sure glad I didn't talk to my Healey like that." (Ray
Feehan)
* Gary Anderson, Racel: "As for me, the first time I drove my
BN7, she found a way to communicate that she had a name, and
it was "Rachel." I see her as having been a petite,
attractive, and very athletic dancer in a former life. On
long trips when I'm driving, I often find myself
"channeling" thoughts from her. Far-fetched? Don't say that
within earshot of her!"
"Gary, that is, WITHOUT A DOUBT, the "sagest"
advice I have EVER seen or heard!!" (Ed Kaler, Hortense THE
Healey)
* Simon Lachlan, The Auld Banger: "And often referred to as
"He" to make the distinction from the other old banger in my
life."
* Ron Yates: "It's always worked for me!
My first car/love was a 1938 LaSalle Opera Coupe that
was christened
"Angelique". She was magnificent!
This beautiful, tall two-door with fender mounted wheels,
whitewalls, etc..
The guys in the car club used to deride her/me because she
didn't fit the
chevy/ford concept that was so prevelant in the car clubs at
the time.
One weekend at the local drag meet a couple of guys from
the club
challenged me/her to a go. She/me easily beat the first
challenge and the
next guy up was Howie Heinz who had this nifty '40 chevy
with a special 271
Jimmy all spiffed to the nines..
I had always had conversations with Angelique from the
first day she
came into my life about all manner of things, and I assured
that no matter
what happened this day, she was the most special thing in my
life and always
would be.
It was a close contest, but we pipped Howie, and as
Angelique passed
that 271 Jimmy she spit some oil out the breather pipe that
covered Howies
chevy from headlight to tail pipe. Now that was a bit
unladylike, but you
could hear her chortling all the way back to the pit; if you
listened real
close.
Angelique didn't win every race, but when she did she
would leave her
mark. I never did figure out how, but then I didn't try too
hard to find
out.
Since then I've never questioned their gender, they
always were named
appropiately, were always included in conversations to and
from wherever,
and considered part of the family, and taken care of
accordingly. If I was
ever let down it was because of me not them. The car is a
special person
and you treat "her" accordingly."
* "We bought our red 1965 BJ8 in March and now have a license
plate frame that says "Y Ddriag Goch", which is Welsh for
"The Red Dragon". I don't know its gender, but it does
breath a bit of fire (ok, smoke). I don't think I want to
piss it off...
Robert D. Hughes ("D" for Dragonmaster? Just don't let the
car know.)"
* "By the way, Pandora is the absolute primo name for a
Healey. A container of chaos. The last thing to emerge is
hope. SoooPerfect!" (Bill Moyer, Chimera)
*
From dwflagg at juno.com
Date: Sat, 5 Aug 2000 08:23:38 -0400
Subject: Re:Red 100 Poster
Hi,
I have a friend who is a serious Healey collector looking for an original
AH100 red poster, publication #1091. If you can be of assistance in
locating or have one for sale please contact me off the net. Thanks.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
From GAKMAK at aol.com
Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 15:14:36 EDT
Subject: Re: Names- continued
My 1965 3000 which I call "The Silver Streak", is not so affectionately
called "The Gray Turd" by my better half........ After 28 years, think I
should keep her? The wife I mean!!! I have had the car for 30 years!!!!!
From tom dooley <tdooley at ispchannel.com>
Date: Sun, 06 Aug 2000 13:08:28 -0700
Subject: Re: Names- continued
Pete,
When my 100-6 was being expertly rebuilt in Stockton by
Norman and Dave Nock, my younger son (17 at the time) was
always asking when the Healey would be ready to drive.
My response always: "I MAY let you ride in it. Drive
it? Never." His mother told me how much trouble he had
gone through to take driver training with a stick shift,
so I knew of his designs.
He drove with me and followed me home to Walnut Creek
when I took delivery. We were on a winding
road in the hills behind Clayton when I pulled over for a
rest stop. We talked on the side of the road for a few
minutes, and then I felt it was time. I handed him the
keys to the Healey and said, "Do you want to drive a real
car?"
His face went through three separate and distinct phases
of expression: disbelief; fear; and then, "Yes!"
Upon arrival at the house, he didn't get out of the car.
He was still out there an hour later. When I asked him
if he wanted dinner he asked me what I was going to call
the car. I looked at all the new shades of green and
said, "Emerald City." He said, "Oz." I said, "Sweet
Baby Oz." He said, "Have you listened to the sound this
car makes? This car is a man, dad, and he isn't 'Sweet Baby'
anything."
So, "Oz" it is, or "The Oz."
Cheers,
Tom Dooley (The Oz is for sale.)
From Alan F Cross <AlanX at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 21:47:21 +0100
Subject: Unrelated to "Leaky carbs - what can I do?"
In message <001f01bfffc3$41f760a0$da5e143f@oemcomputer>, frogeye
<frogeye@gateway.net> writes
>Alan,
> A question to you, unrelated to the carb questions. How do you spell the
>word, we in the states, call a curb ? Is kerb correct there? Also do you
>use the word gutter or shoulder to describe the transition from Side walk to
>roadway? Thanks for your help with the Queen's English.
>
>Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
>59 AH :{) 54 BN1
>
Well I never expected the thread to take *this* turn!
Yes its a 'kerb' that we damage our rims on, if we go too close to the
'pavement' (sidewalk to you!) - and the 'gutter' is where we are
supposed to park our nearside wheels!
But why do you ask - is there some desire perhaps to speak the real
Queen's English when in your LBC??!! ;-).
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
From "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc at earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 14:11:17 -0700
Subject: Re: Names- continued
You mentioned David Nock - - a great story comes to mind from a West Coast
meet held in Ventura, maybe 1995. I hope I have this story right.
David was driving a 100-6 or some early 6 cylinder. The parking brake was
not set correctly and the car came to rest upon a tree. I would think a
good name for that car would be "Nock on Wood".
Jim LeBlanc
1956 100-M
----- Original Message -----
From: "tom dooley" <tdooley@ispchannel.com>
To: "P.M. Pollock" <pollpete@ix.netcom.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 06, 2000 1:08 PM
Subject: Re: Names- continued
>
> Pete,
>
> When my 100-6 was being expertly rebuilt in Stockton by
> Norman and Dave Nock, my younger son (17 at the time) was
> always asking when the Healey would be ready to drive.
> My response always: "I MAY let you ride in it. Drive
> it? Never." His mother told me how much trouble he had
> gone through to take driver training with a stick shift,
> so I knew of his designs.
>
> He drove with me and followed me home to Walnut Creek
> when I took delivery. We were on a winding
> road in the hills behind Clayton when I pulled over for a
> rest stop. We talked on the side of the road for a few
> minutes, and then I felt it was time. I handed him the
> keys to the Healey and said, "Do you want to drive a real
> car?"
>
> His face went through three separate and distinct phases
> of expression: disbelief; fear; and then, "Yes!"
>
> Upon arrival at the house, he didn't get out of the car.
> He was still out there an hour later. When I asked him
> if he wanted dinner he asked me what I was going to call
> the car. I looked at all the new shades of green and
> said, "Emerald City." He said, "Oz." I said, "Sweet
> Baby Oz." He said, "Have you listened to the sound this
> car makes? This car is a man, dad, and he isn't 'Sweet Baby'
> anything."
>
> So, "Oz" it is, or "The Oz."
>
> Cheers,
>
> Tom Dooley (The Oz is for sale.)
>
From James B Dalglish <leaker at exit109.com>
Date: Sun, 06 Aug 2000 18:14:21 -0400
Subject: Re: Names- continued
My 60BT7 remains anonymous after 16 years, I have no excuse. I promise
to work on it.
Jim Dalglish
99 Dodge Cummins 4X4--- Way more fun than I care to admit.
29' Bimini Marine---a money pit.
"P.M. Pollock" wrote:
> After several day's accumulation here's what I have for car
> names- twenty-one.
>
> There likely should be at least one more as I somehow managed to
> delete an unread message, so if you've sent me yours please check
> to make sure it actually made it to the list and that I entered
> it correctly.
>
> I'm certain everyone enjoyed the stories behind the names as much
> as did I ("Bambi" indeed). Most respondents did not address the
> "talking" issue, but those that did turned it into a delightful
> thread of its own. However only one of the talkers explicitly
> referred to conversing with his named LBC (EditorGary, expressing
> precisely my experience, I might add), so only he and I are
> noted. Some of you may wish to add an addendum (or own up).
>
> Pete Pollock
> BJ7
> N. California
>
> Original intro:
>
> Awhile back I triggered a little thread about car
> gender by
> referring to my BJ7 as "he". Got me musing about car
> names and
> wondering how many of us have named our beasts and,
> like me, are
> given to talking to them.
>
> When I got my car new in '63 I started referring to it
> as "the
> Austin" and over the years, as I learned the value of
> talking to
> machinery, it became shortened to just "Austin", so
> that's his
> name. Pretty prosaic but I figure that, like boats, it
> is apt to
> be bad luck to rename your car (if only because there'd
> be a
> while during which it wouldn't know you're talking to
> it and
> would fail to follow your tender instructions). So
> he's "Austin"
> and he's a "he", which is not to say other Healeys
> aren't
> "shes". (How else would we get Sprites?)
>
> What this is leading up to is a collected list of the
> various and
> sundry car names, nicknames, etc. Here's what I have
> so far.
> Except for mine they're all splendid. Anyone
> interested send your info to be added.
>
> Agnes
> BN1
> Howard Lee Young, Jr.
>
> The Auld Banger
> ?
> Simon Lachlan
>
> Austin
> BJ7
> Pete Pollock (talker)
>
> Babe
> BN4
> Greg Bankin
>
> Bambi
> BJ8
> Tim Wallace
>
> Bilbo
> Sprite ("after Tolkein's hobbit")
> Mike
>
> Chimera
> BJ7
> Bill Moyer
> "Known as "Chimera" a lion in front, a goat behind the wheel
> and a snake's tail draggin' the exhaust behind. Goat's aren't
> too bright."
>
> Erika the Red
> 100-Six
> John Soderling
>
> Ginny
> BJ8
> Alan F Cross
>
> Hortense THE Healey
> BJ7
> Ed Kaler
>
> Iris
> 60 AN5L
> Leo Speichinger
>
> Jolly Roger, Sprytly's Big Brother
> BN7
> Martin Johnson
>
> Kermit
> W.R. Gibbons (deceased)
> Frogeye Sprite (green, of course)
>
> Old Red Devil
> BN7
> Don Yarber
>
> "Not Yet Named" (Editor's comment: dangerous.)
> BT7
> Chris Woodall
>
> Pandora
> BJ8
> Don Gschwind
>
> Rachel
> BN7
> Gary Anderson (talker)
>
> The Red Dragon
> BJ8
> Robert D.(Dragonmaster) Hughes
>
> Ruby
> BJ8
> John Stevens
>
> TARHEELY
> "Has spent his whole 34 years (7 owners) here in The Tar Heel
> State."
> BJ8
> Steve Byers
>
> ULU
> BJ8
> Bob Jones
>
> Selected comments:
>
> * Fred Scheuble: "I've called my healey many names on
> occasion but I can't print it here!"
> * Howard Lee Young, Jr., Agnes: "Don't know why my Pop named
> her that when he bought her in 1960,mos' pro'lly took t to
> the grave with him,unless it's in the article"A Love Affair
> With Agnes" that he wrote for his SCCA Reg. newspaper "Rebel
> Yell".I think i asked my Mom once and she didn't know. But
> Agnes was known to her competition as "# 64 E.P. She also
> "showed her ass" to more than one D.P. (Oh and the other
> Healeys here don't have names although the BN2 should be
> called Bengt Frame........(bent frame)......and the
> BJ7..."Floorless" or
> Rusty................HoYo)"
> * Tim Wallace, Bambi: "Old girl friend of mine came up with
> that one day when she felt that I was spending too much time
> with my cars and not nearly enough with her. (Read high
> maintenance. The girl that is.) It all came out one day in
> one of those fits that far too many of my ex-girlfriends
> have. She told me, "You ought to call that thing Bambi,
> because you sure spend a lot of time under it screwing
> up!!!!" The bump and gash on my forehead were worth it from
> the gaffaw I got from that piece of female logic. From that
> time foreward Bambi she was."
> * Greg Bankin, Babe: "When I first brought HER home my then
> girlfriend thought I was as proud as a new father."
> * Gary Anderson, Rachel: "I talked to Norman Dewis, Jaguar's
> chief test driver from the fifties, just before he drove the
> XJ13 up the hill at Goodwood a few weeks ago. I asked him
> what he did just before a race. He said, "I talk to the car
> and tell her what I expect of her. 'No messing about, a good
> clean run, give it all she's got,' that sort of thing. It
> does make a difference, you know, if you talk to your car."
>
> "That's what I used to say to my wife and she's
> gone. Sure glad I didn't talk to my Healey like that." (Ray
> Feehan)
> * Gary Anderson, Racel: "As for me, the first time I drove my
> BN7, she found a way to communicate that she had a name, and
> it was "Rachel." I see her as having been a petite,
> attractive, and very athletic dancer in a former life. On
> long trips when I'm driving, I often find myself
> "channeling" thoughts from her. Far-fetched? Don't say that
> within earshot of her!"
>
> "Gary, that is, WITHOUT A DOUBT, the "sagest"
> advice I have EVER seen or heard!!" (Ed Kaler, Hortense THE
> Healey)
>
> * Simon Lachlan, The Auld Banger: "And often referred to as
> "He" to make the distinction from the other old banger in my
> life."
>
> * Ron Yates: "It's always worked for me!
>
> My first car/love was a 1938 LaSalle Opera Coupe that
> was christened
> "Angelique". She was magnificent!
> This beautiful, tall two-door with fender mounted wheels,
> whitewalls, etc..
> The guys in the car club used to deride her/me because she
> didn't fit the
> chevy/ford concept that was so prevelant in the car clubs at
> the time.
> One weekend at the local drag meet a couple of guys from
> the club
> challenged me/her to a go. She/me easily beat the first
> challenge and the
> next guy up was Howie Heinz who had this nifty '40 chevy
> with a special 271
> Jimmy all spiffed to the nines..
> I had always had conversations with Angelique from the
> first day she
> came into my life about all manner of things, and I assured
> that no matter
> what happened this day, she was the most special thing in my
> life and always
> would be.
> It was a close contest, but we pipped Howie, and as
> Angelique passed
> that 271 Jimmy she spit some oil out the breather pipe that
> covered Howies
> chevy from headlight to tail pipe. Now that was a bit
> unladylike, but you
> could hear her chortling all the way back to the pit; if you
> listened real
> close.
> Angelique didn't win every race, but when she did she
> would leave her
> mark. I never did figure out how, but then I didn't try too
> hard to find
> out.
> Since then I've never questioned their gender, they
> always were named
> appropiately, were always included in conversations to and
> from wherever,
> and considered part of the family, and taken care of
> accordingly. If I was
> ever let down it was because of me not them. The car is a
> special person
> and you treat "her" accordingly."
>
> * "We bought our red 1965 BJ8 in March and now have a license
> plate frame that says "Y Ddriag Goch", which is Welsh for
> "The Red Dragon". I don't know its gender, but it does
> breath a bit of fire (ok, smoke). I don't think I want to
> piss it off...
> Robert D. Hughes ("D" for Dragonmaster? Just don't let the
> car know.)"
>
> * "By the way, Pandora is the absolute primo name for a
> Healey. A container of chaos. The last thing to emerge is
> hope. SoooPerfect!" (Bill Moyer, Chimera)
> *
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 18:52:44 EDT
Subject: Re: Names- continued
In a message dated 08/06/2000 2:15:55 PM Central Daylight Time,
GAKMAK@aol.com writes:
<< The wife I mean!!! >>
Sure, just but her a '70s Al*a. Then she'll know the real meaning of
"t.......".
Ed
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 18:59:07 EDT
Subject: Re: Names- continued
In a message dated 08/06/2000 3:10:07 PM Central Daylight Time,
tdooley@ispchannel.com writes:
<< (The Oz is for sale.) >>
That IS a "shame", Tom!!
Ed
From Herman Farrer <herman at hfphoto.com>
Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 19:05:33 -0400
Subject: Re: Conclave 2000 Photos
For those of you who just can't wait any longer, I've posted some
photos of my trip to conclave. Not a well rounded look, but it's a
start. I expect to be getting some more photos soon form my traveling
companions.
http://lightning.prohosting.com/~caahc/Photos/Conclave%202000/conclave%202000.html
Also, for those of you in the Maryland/Virginia/Pennsylvania area,
don't forget to register for the Capital Area AHC's Shore 2 Shore
2000 event September 9-10. For more info:
http://lightning.prohosting.com/~caahc/Events/Shore%202%20Shore/shore%202%20shore.html
Herman
--
Capital Area Austin Healey Club
http://lightning.prohosting.com/~caahc
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 19:17:12 EDT
Subject: Re: Conclave 2000 Photos
In a message dated 08/06/2000 6:06:14 PM Central Daylight Time,
herman@hfphoto.com writes:
<< Also, for those of you in the Maryland/Virginia/Pennsylvania area,
don't forget to register for the Capital Area AHC's Shore 2 Shore
2000 event September 9-10. >>
So Herman, does that mean that "outsiders" AIN'T welcome?!?!?!?!
Enquiring.......!
Ed
PS: That means folkes from The Flatland!! Or Dah Cheesehead Place, ya hey
der?? Or Hoosier dis?? Huuum, and G*d forbid, a Left Coaster!?!?!? <G>?
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 19:44:40 -0400
Subject: Re: Conclave 2000 Photos
Every body is welcome just as long as they have a Healey. We are even
counting Sprigets as Healeys despite what the trim might say.
This will be a fun, cheap event. Don't miss it because you can only make
one day.
Lee
'62 BT7 Tri-carb
-----Original Message-----
From: JustBrits@aol.com <JustBrits@aol.com>
To: herman@hfphoto.com <herman@hfphoto.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sunday, August 06, 2000 7:17 PM
Subject: Re: Conclave 2000 Photos
>
>In a message dated 08/06/2000 6:06:14 PM Central Daylight Time,
>herman@hfphoto.com writes:
>
><< Also, for those of you in the Maryland/Virginia/Pennsylvania area,
> don't forget to register for the Capital Area AHC's Shore 2 Shore
> 2000 event September 9-10. >>
>
>So Herman, does that mean that "outsiders" AIN'T welcome?!?!?!?!
>Enquiring.......!
>
>Ed
>
>PS: That means folkes from The Flatland!! Or Dah Cheesehead Place, ya hey
>der?? Or Hoosier dis?? Huuum, and G*d forbid, a Left Coaster!?!?!? <G>?
From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sun, 06 Aug 2000 18:46:19 -0500
Subject: Re: Names- continued
Got behind on my emails 'til I just got back in town.
After tearing her down and rebuilding her over and over and changing many
things with each iteration, my '66 BJ8 Rallye is affectionately known as
"Bits & Pieces". Right now back in pieces while the new frame fabrication
is being completed.
Jim Hockert
66 BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
From Herman Farrer <herman at hfphoto.com>
Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 20:12:44 -0400
Subject: Re: Unrelated to "Leaky carbs - what can I do?"
>
>Yes its a 'kerb' that we damage our rims on, if we go too close to the
>'pavement' (sidewalk to you!) - and the 'gutter' is where we are
>supposed to park our nearside wheels!
Which reminds me of my autobiography, "From the Gutter to the Kerb."
Herman
--
Capital Area Austin Healey Club
http://lightning.prohosting.com/~caahc
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 19:23:55 -0500
Subject: Re: Names- continued
my 59 bn6 displays the texas personalized tag 100*SIX and carries the nickname
Ginger from the old nursery rhyme run, run, run as fast as you can-- you can't
catch me, i'm the ginger bred man !!
jerry wall
----- Original Message -----
From: GAKMAK@aol.com
To: pollpete@ix.netcom.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Names- continued
Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 15:14:36 EDT
My 1965 3000 which I call "The Silver Streak", is not so affectionately
called "The Gray Turd" by my better half........ After 28 years, think I
should keep her? The wife I mean!!! I have had the car for 30 years!!!!!
From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 06 Aug 2000 17:40:08 -0700
Subject: Re: Names- continued
The California license plate on our '60BT7 reads IM A 60 because
inevitably when we stop at a diner or petrol pump, someone asks . . .
.
The name is . . . naturally, . . . IMA
Terry Blubaugh
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 20:54:24 EDT
Subject: Re: Conclave 2000 Photos
In a message dated 8/6/00 7:27:04 PM Eastern Daylight Time, JustBrits@aol.com
writes:
<< So Herman, does that mean that "outsiders" AIN'T welcome?!?!?!?!
Enquiring.......!
Ed
PS: That means folkes from The Flatland!! Or Dah Cheesehead Place, ya hey
der?? Or Hoosier dis?? Huuum, and G*d forbid, a Left Coaster!?!?!? <G>?
>>
Ed--
We welcome all Healey enthusiasts, even including those who did not have
hospitality rooms at the recent Conclave. Anyone interested may contact me
for further information on this event.
Best Regards--Michael Oritt
From "Alexis Zarkades" <zdesign at mediaone.net>
Date: Sun, 06 Aug 2000 21:24:56 -0400
Subject: new to healeys
I have just purchased my first healey a 1966 BJ8 with 40,000 miles, the car
is in perfect original condition other than being repainted. It has a couple
of small problems:
1. The wipers start and go back and forth 9 or 10 times than dies, than
after a time does the same thing.
2. The slide lever on heat control is stuck in the left position and will
not move.
Any help would be appreciated
Thank,
The New Healey Guy
Nick Z
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 21:45:02 EDT
Subject: Re: Conclave 2000 Photos
In a message dated 08/06/2000 7:55:51 PM Central Daylight Time,
Awgertoo@aol.com writes:
<< even including those who did not have
hospitality rooms at the recent Conclave >>
Huuum, Michael. Do you mean the one that was "announced for me"??
Or the one that the Host Chapter did not even ask for??
Or just the "ad" &/or "support" the Host Chapter did not ASK for??
er, any/all of the above??
Cheers..............
Ed
PS: And your "long distance mileage" would be??
PPS: For the he*l of it, I have visited Inan & Bruce driving Hortense. Who
in Chicago area have YOU "visited" IN YOUR Healey??
PPPS: And just HOW many Conclaves have you been too?? Sure don't remember
you at Oconomowoc.
From BGAHC at aol.com
Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 22:18:43 EDT
Subject: Re: Conclave 2000 Photos
JustBrits@aol.com writes: << even including those who did not have
> hospitality rooms at the recent Conclave >>> Huuum, Michael. Do you
mean the one that was "announced for me"??
I need to put a stop to this discussion now since it was my wiseass comments
that got it started.
For the record Kaler never was asked to hold a party at Conclave. I made a
remark in a pre-conclave post that was tongue in cheek about "meeting in
Kalers Penthouse suite for a beer". The tip off that it was a put-on was
"penthouse suite", Kalers too cheap for that. Peanuts and beer in the parking
lot for sure, no penthouse suite.
but I do know that I have been to a lot of events over the years and
JustBrits has always been a strong and generous supporter of the Healey
Marque and Ed's contributions are well known by everyone. Some of us are just
teasing each other here on the list and I don't want anyone to misconstrue
our put-ons for truth.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
1957 BN4 Rally Car
1966 BJ8
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 22:46:15 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Conclave 2000 Photos
Everybody should give
www.snapfish.com
a try.
I sent them 10 rolls of film and had the prints back within a week and posted
on the Internet in my personal "Shoebox" within three days.
When they are in your Shoebox you can edit them and share them with any email
address.
AND here's the good part: They send you postage freemailers; they return your
prints FREE; they print on Kodak paper; the ENTIRE charge is $1.89 S&H; if you
want a second set of prints it's an additional $1.69 for the set. All charges
go to your VISA if you want - you don't send them any money.
Their gimmick is "market research".. If you DON'T look at your pictures in your
Shoebox within 30 days, they then charge you for the initial processing. When
you go look at them they ask you three questions like "Do you plan to buy a
digital camera this year?"
I wasn't at Conclave but my Duluth ATW photos are in my Shoebox and I'll make
them available to the List - by tomorrow. Snapfish will send an email to the
List (I think)
DickB
---- you wrote:
>
> CAWS52803@aol.com writes:" Since I am still in the Dark Ages and use a
> camera".
>
> Same here Rudy. My camera still had the same film in it from Conclave 98.
>
> America Online now offers a feature on 5.0 called "You've Got Pictures," take
> you film to Walgreens and for 4.95 extra they will post them on a web page
> for you also.
>
> I'm going to give it a try. Anyone had any experience with this?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim Werner
> Louisville, KY
> 1957 BN4 Rally Car
> 1966 BJ8
> Just got home from the Street Rod Nationals that are here in Louisville for
> four days. (we locals go on Sunday morning and beat the crowds) 15,000 cars!
> Hundreds of vendors. Incredible show and they are coming back to town for the
> next ten years.
> (I was the only one wearing an Austin Healey shirt.)
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From LarryRPH at aol.com
Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 22:58:37 EDT
Subject: Names continued
My BJ 7 has the license plate : "ITZA BJ 7" and my BN 6 Has "ITZA BN 6"
because it's not long when I am out with either car that somebody will ask -
"What model is that Healey?"
Larry Wysocki
From Nassau4u at aol.com
Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 23:08:20 EDT
Subject: Re: Names continued
My plates say "BRG BJ8" and "FACTRYM". I guess you have to know Healeys to
understand.
John
From "Tim Moran" <timoran at ticnet.com>
Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 19:23:09 -0500
Subject: More Names
8-6-2000
I cannot sit idly by and watch this thread about car names slip by without
submitting the names of, and putting in a plug for, no ! NOT the Texas
Cooler this time, but the Modified Austin Healeys....
Many of our cars have names, testosterone laced monikers which reflect their
brutish ferocity.
No girlie-man names here..... (even Sleeping Beauty is a cross dresser).
Check us out at www.modifiedhealeys.austin1.com Click on the thumbnail
pictures of the cars for the specs and more pics of their pec's.
Tim
PS: If you need your Texas Cooler Booster Shot, it is at
www.ntahc.austin1.com
From Terry Disz <disz at gte.net>
Date: Sun, 06 Aug 2000 22:24:17 -0500
Subject: Winston Salem
Hi,
I find myself in Winston Salem NC with not much to do for a few days as
my daughter attends piano camp. I am wondering if there are any local
Healey events or meetings going on Monday, Tuesday or Wednesday that I
could crash, err, well, visit I mean.
Just wondering,
Terry Disz
62 BT7 Tri Carb
From KingPinion at aol.com
Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 23:45:49 EDT
Subject: Re: Names Calling continued
I always figured that if you had a cool, classic car, the need for such
personalized vanity plates was moot. I mean even a beat-up 100/6 on a flatbed
or roadside BJ8, missing a knock off - still turns more heads and garners
more attention than most anything else out there on the highway.
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Sun, 06 Aug 2000 20:43:41 -0700
Subject: Re: Names continued
Well, after failing to get 30YRDRM (It belongs to a gorgeous XKE), I
settled for L867BJ8. NOBODY gets it!
bk
--------------------------------
At 08:08 PM 8/6/00 , you wrote:
>My plates say "BRG BJ8" and "FACTRYM". I guess you have to know Healeys to
>understand.
>John
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Sun, 06 Aug 2000 21:11:07 -0700
Subject: Re: Names continued
Plates:
waiting for 65 HEALY
to arrive from the DMV.
Ron
1965 BJ8
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Sun, 06 Aug 2000 21:13:45 -0700
Subject: also wipers
While driving back from the Rock Store this afternoon, the wipers turned them
selves on ran for two passes, turned them selves off and then did it again.
that's it. Just twice but not again. Any ideas?
Ron Rader
1965 BJ8
Alexis Zarkades wrote:
> I have just purchased my first healey a 1966 BJ8 with 40,000 miles, the car
> is in perfect original condition other than being repainted. It has a couple
> of small problems:
>
> 1. The wipers start and go back and forth 9 or 10 times than dies, than
> after a time does the same thing.
>
> 2. The slide lever on heat control is stuck in the left position and will
> not move.
>
> Any help would be appreciated
>
> Thank,
> The New Healey Guy
> Nick Z
From "JEANNE" <jeans56ah at earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 23:36:57 -0700
Subject: Re:Names continued
This is my first actual email to the list (but have been on this list for
years now- reading and learning-so be easy on me please LOL)
My 2 cents worth... :)
My '56 100-6 BN4 (4seater) has the personalized plate "Jeans56" --- reason
is two fold...
First and foremost in Memory of my dad Jean Bruce who passed away 11 years
ago, bless his heart, leaving me with 4 Healeys in different stages of
restoration...and a concourse condition '56 100M Factory Lemans!!!(the M was
mine to start with years ago ...But that's a long story!! and won't bore you
all with the details.)
Second because,afterall, it IS my Healey now! lol
I brought the '56 100-6 back to life mostly on my own! Doing so with the
knowledge acquired from dad over many, many years in the garage helping
him.(OK!OK! so...He wanted a boy!! -got me instead-- LOL- an only child and
"daddy's little girl" to boot!! HEY!!! He HAD to teach SOMEONE!!! LOL )
nick name for 100-6 = "The Hot One" for obvious reasons lol
Jeanne
From Ed Townley <townley at zianet.com>
Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2000 05:29:37 -0600
Subject: names
Hi, Pete: couldn't resist adding to your collection of names-
The 64 BJ8 that has resided in a series of garages I have owned over the
past 26 years suggested his own name by the admirable way he adapted to the
desert southwest. After being exported to Germany shortly after birth
(locking steering column, and two small running lights), he found his way
to southern NM in the early 70's. He gets driven a lot, and has never yet
overheated to the point of damage to anything mechanical, even though my
asbestos boots and chaps have been replaced a couple of times. He has
always been known simply as the Healey-Monster to me and my kids since I
can remember.
When I added the 59 AN5 to the stable a couple of years ago, It didn't have
a name for awhile, until Steve Byers (Tarhealey) of the BJ8 registry
suggested HornyToad. And it stuck.
Now, I just wish the Healey-Monster would teach the HornyToad how to
operate in this heat without overheating.
Regards,
Ed in SO NM, USA
64 BJ8 (Healey-Monster)
59 AN5 (HornyToad)
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2000 10:35:10 EDT
Subject: Re: Conclave 2000 Photos
In a message dated 08/06/2000 9:21:57 PM Central Daylight Time, BGAHC@aol.com
writes:
<< I need to put a stop to this discussion >>
Thanks, Jim!!
Cheers............
Ed
From "Keith R. Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Mon, 07 Aug 2000 10:48:47 -0400
Subject: Re: Names continued
LarryRPH@aol.com wrote:
>
> My BJ 7 has the license plate : "ITZA BJ 7" and my BN 6 Has "ITZA BN 6"
> because it's not long when I am out with either car that somebody will ask -
> "What model is that Healey?"
> Larry Wysocki
For my BN7 I have considered using "BEIN 7". But I believe I will stick
with the 1960 vintage plates.
Keith Pennell
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2000 10:37:09 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Describing strange noises
This showed up in my email this morning and I'd thought it might come in handy
for those of us askingfor help with strange noises.
I'll send on Part 2 if and when I get it.
DickB
'62 BT7Tri-Carb
Print out this "vocabulary list" of
odd vehicle noises, keep
it in your glove compartment and
use it to help you provide
the best description. (This is the
first of two parts. The
second installment will be issued
next week.)
BOOM - Rhythmic sound like a drum
roll or distant thunder.
Might affect ear drums.
BUZZ - Low-pitched sound, something
like a bee. Usually
associated with vibrations.
CHATTER - Rapidly repeating
metallic sound.
CHUCKLE - Rapid noise that sounds
like a stick against
spokes of a spinning bicycle wheel.
CHIRP - High-pitched rapidly
repeating sound, like chirping
birds.
CLICK - Light sound, like a
ball-point pen being clicked.
CLUNK/THUMP - Heavy metal-to-metal
sound, like a hammer
striking ssteel.
GRIND - Abrasive sound, like a
grinding wheel or sandpaper
rubbing against wood.
GROAN/MOAN - Continuous,
low-pitched humming sound.
GROWL - Low, guttural sound, like
an angry dog.
HISS - Continuous sound, like air
escaping from a balloon.
Accurate description of the strange
noise you hear is the
first step to getting the problem
diagnosed, in order to fix
whatever is wrong. Mechanics
respect customers who can
"speak their language." This list
will help you get the best
service possible on your vehicle.
Source: "GEICO Direct," Spring 1999
(adapted)
----------------------------------------------------------------
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2000 10:38:57 EDT
Subject: Re: Names continued
In a message dated 08/06/2000 10:02:01 PM Central Daylight Time,
LarryRPH@aol.com writes:
<< My BJ 7 has the license plate : "ITZA BJ 7" >>
Larry:
You and I know it's really because Hortense wears "AH BJ 7", right??
<G><G><G>!!!
Ed
From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2000 08:19:56 -0700
Subject: Re: Names continued
Calif. Plates: 66 MKIII
Name: Oh-No
Randy
>
> Plates:
> waiting for 65 HEALY
> to arrive from the DMV.
> Ron
> 1965 BJ8
>
>
>
>
From Fred Hunter <fhunter at kcnet.com>
Date: Mon, 07 Aug 2000 10:46:20 -0500
Subject: Re: Describing strange noises
Dick:
In your next installment, don't forget "tinkle"...no, not that kind of
tinkle!
I'm referring to the 'tinkle' sound that a high-quality open-end wrench
makes when it hits the roadway at 35 mph and bounces down the road after
flying off the fender...the really nice, mellow ringing, metallic sound
of a good forging receding in the distance.
...or the slightly lower pitched 'tinkle' of a heavier chromed spinner
hitting the road and bouncing...now THAT's serious...something you need
to pay attention to RIGHT NOW! A definate...Uh,oh!
Don't ask me how I know...
Best regards,
Fred Hunter
If daisies
Are your
Favorite flower
Keep pushin' up those
Miles-per-hour
--Burma-Shave--
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2000 11:49:03 EDT
Subject: Re: Names- continued
In a message dated 08/06/2000 12:45:21 PM Central Daylight Time,
pollpete@ix.netcom.com writes:
<< Some of you may wish to add an addendum (or own up). >>
OK, I'll fess up!!
Hortense was originally sold to a Prof. at SIU in Carbondale, IL by
Continental Cars of St. Louis (I have window sticker). She sold to a grad
student who took a position with Bunn in Springfield, IL. Bunn decided to
move their entire operation to Iowa, The gent got extremely despondent and
commited suicide. His wife donated the car to a local charity who did in
fact title her. A guy bought her whilst in a VERY inebreated state and drove
her home and parked in his garage. Two years later, I saw an ad in the Spfl.
paper and called. Turns out I know the gent but didn't know he had a Healey
(I was in Frogeyes at the time<G>). Went and looked. HOOKED!!
Picked her up the next weekend after he bought (but I put in 'cause the gent
did not even know which end of a monkey wrench worked<G>), checked out oil
(brand new!!), top up carbs and petrol tank, and drove to Hinsdale (165
miles) without even a sputter!! Wheels where supposed to have 48 spokes.
er, out of 192, maybe 150 exsisted or were "snug". Cindy followed all the
way with much trepadation<G><G>!!
But me, way confident, and FAR, FAR TOOOOOOO HAPPY !! Best drive I have
ever had in my life!! I am grinning as I type!! So, whilst having a
celebratory beer sitting outside of her new home, Cindy said, "You know,
honey, for that trip alone SHE needs a name. I can only come up with one
female name that goes along with sytle and guts, Hortense THE Healey!!"
And, now you know the rest of the story!! (sorry Mr. Harvey!)(Not<G>)
Cheers................
Ed
'63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey wearing AH BJ 7 Regular plates)
(always an ILLINI !!)
From Russ Staub <bbb11489 at getnet.com>
Date: Mon, 07 Aug 2000 09:53:08 -0700
Subject: Names
Pete,
'67 BJ8 named HORACE-
I think the saying "Go West, young man" is attributed to Horace Greely.
Since Horace (Healey) was born in England, was originally adopted in
Kentucky, very briefly moved to Texas (days), and has finally retired to
Arizona, I thought Horace Healey was an appropriate name considering his
lifetime history of moving towards the West.
'56 BN2 named HUMPHREY-
Being a blood brother to Horace, I just thought Humphrey Healey was a
nice sounding name, no other story.
Russ Staub
Mesa, AZ
P.S. I like to name my cars, as they all have their own individual
personalities, and, I must admit, when alone in the garage, and well out
of earshot, I do feel the need to occasionally communicate with them.
They have been good kids!
From "S.HUTCHINGS" <hutching at myna.com>
Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2000 13:59:51 -0400
Subject: Re; RE; More on Borescopes and noise
Thanks very much for your offer, Greg, but I'm in Toronto, and I'm glad to
say that, whatever my problem is,
it doesn't seem to involve foreign objects in the cylinders.
I'm waiting until I've gone through some more tests before I report on my
progress, but I've turned the engine over without being connected to the
head, and had no noise.
Thanks again, Stephen
From RLoosigian at aol.com
Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2000 14:10:57 EDT
Subject: "The Road to Beijing"
When I tried to order this book from Amazon, I was told that it was
backordered and would take six to eight weeks. I went to the WH Smith online
bookstore based in the uk. I ordered the book last week and it came in today.
Ralph Loosigian
Lowell, MA
From dwflagg at juno.com
Date: Sat, 5 Aug 2000 12:01:47 -0400
Subject: Re: DELIVERY FAILURE: User
ROBERTO_SCAGLIONE/UNIDAD_AUDITORIA_INTERNA/NOTES/SAFJP
(ROBERTO_SCAGLIONE/UNIDAD_Re: Mrs Rounds Car
Roberto,
I tried to answer your post, but it came back unable able to deliver
because:
ROBERTO_SCAGLIONE/UNIDAD_AUDITORIA_INTERNA/NOTES/SAFJP@safjp.gov.ar
>
> because:
>
> User ROBERTO_SCAGLIONE/UNIDAD_AUDITORIA_INTERNA/NOTES/SAFJP
> (ROBERTO_SCAGLIONE/UNIDAD_AUDITORIA_INTERNA/NOTES/SAFJP@safjp.gov.ar)
> not listed in public Name & Address Book
>
Please contact me off the net with another address or phone number.
Thanks.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2000 16:18:58 EDT
Subject: Fwd: Anil,Healey club Mem.
--part1_a2.83c25e3.26c073b2_boundary
In a message dated 8/7/00 2:37:59 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
lmairs@ix.netcom.com writes:
<< He forgot:
Bring Regalia - Gary
Take away remaining regalia - Gary
Hotel parking lot wrangler - Lee >>
Received the above from Lee Mairs--everyone please mark your lists
accordingly, and if there are no other comments we will see each other on or
before the 9th!~ And if someone has Hunt's phone or email address would they
please advise ihm as well as make sure that he gets the first assignment
list!
Best regards and thanks to all--Michael
--part1_a2.83c25e3.26c073b2_boundary
Content-Disposition: inline
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From: "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs@ix.netcom.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Anil,Healey club Mem.
Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2000 14:41:21 -0400
MIME-Version: 1.0
charset="iso-8859-1"
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He forgot:
Bring Regalia - Gary
Take away remaining regalia - Gary
Hotel parking lot wrangler - Lee
-----Original Message-----
From: Awgertoo@aol.com <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: Lee S. Mairs <lmairs@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Monday, August 07, 2000 2:12 PM
Subject: Fwd: Anil,Healey club Mem.
>In a message dated 8/7/00 11:52:32 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
>MPalsgrove@mail.cc.nih.gov writes:
>
><< Direct Traffic - Gary
>
> Buy Supplies - Gary
>
> Table Set Up - Hunt & Gary
>
> Sell Regalia/Auction - Michael, Lee & Hunt
>
> Collect Money/Name Tags - Don
>
> Trash - Amil, Herman (All Farrer's)
>
> Drive - Michael
> Radios: Gary
>
> Take Lunch Orders, Collect Money - Michael
>
> --- Sunday ---
>
> Hospitality Room - Michael
> Set Up - Lee Mairs
>
> Tour of Annapolis - Michael
> Parking Area - Michael
>
> Belair Mansion - Michael & Don
> Set Up Tables & Chairs - Michael & Don
>
> Bring Lunch - Michael
>
> Ice, Coolers - Herman
>
> Park Cars for Show - Michael
>
> Run Car Show - Don & Michael
>
> Replace Chairs, Tables & Clean Up - Michael & Lee
>
> Thank You Letters - Gary
>
>
> >>
>
>
--part1_a2.83c25e3.26c073b2_boundary--
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Mon, 07 Aug 2000 13:54:13 -0700
Subject: free gas tank for 6 cyl Healey -- last call
located near San Diego, this is a perfectly servicable tank.
It won't win you any concours points because it is not original in
appearance, but it fits and the inlet and outlet are the right sizes
and in the right places. It probably won't pick up the last gallon or
so out of the bottom of the tank because of the way the pickup tube
has been done. No rust visible on the inside. Outside a nice
machinery gray color. No leaks. Standard provision for the standard
unreliable gas gauge sender.
I replaced it because I was going on a long trip and needed the
maximum fuel availability.
I would prefer to deliver it to someone in the San Diego area but
could probably put it in the box that Moss sent me around the
replacement tank and ship at your cost and risk.
-Roland
From BGAHC at aol.com
Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2000 16:55:47 EDT
Subject: 68 Sprite for Sale in GA.
I received this one through my website and thought I would pass it along to
the lists. Please contact Daylightb@aol.com if you are interested.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----------------------------------------
I live in Suwanee, Georgia and have a restored 68 Sprite Mark IV for sale. I
have documentation photos, receipts, etc. If anyone is interested phone
770-337-5265
Thank you, Ray Pavlovich
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
1957 BN4 Rally Car
1966 BJ8
From Kit Henry <khenry at hmcltd.net>
Date: Mon, 07 Aug 2000 17:10:32 -0400
Subject: Names
My 65 BJ8 is named "Ivory Red" due to the color scheme, Ivory w/ red
interior
--
Kit Henry
Henry MotorSports Inc.
419-483-5064
http://www.henrymotorsports.com
E-Mail: khenry@hmcltd.net
From "S.HUTCHINGS" <hutching at myna.com>
Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2000 19:47:40 -0400
Subject: What's that noise....silence
A special hello to Mike Salter and Mike Lupynec, who have followed this
thread the closest,
but thanks to everyone for their suggestions. When I last posted I was
going to listen to the engine
while disconnected from the head...no sound. In went lifters, push rods,
and rocker shaft (which
had been completely re-dismantled and checked in painful detail)....turned
engine over with no
ignition....no sound (other than what you'd expect).So....after a strong
cup of tea and a deep breath,
I fired it up and.....son of a gun, no sound.
What have I learned? Well I could tell you a lot about what wasn't causing
the noise, but the real cause
shall probably remain a mystery..maybe an oil feed problem, maybe not.
I read a great book called "Jupiter's Travels" by Ted Simon, who rode
around the world on a Triumph
motor bike in the early seventies; I remember a photo of the bike in some
wild locale, completely
stripped to the frame with the caption saying some thing like " I searched
for an electrical fault, which I
never found, but when I put it back together the damn thing
worked."....well at least I wasn't doing
this in the Kalahari, and I had the list!
Cheers, Stephen what fantastic oil pressure Hutchings
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Mon, 07 Aug 2000 20:44:21 -0400
Subject: Re: What's that noise....silence
"S.HUTCHINGS" wrote:
> A special hello to Mike Salter and Mike Lupynec, who have followed this
> thread the closest,
> but thanks to everyone for their suggestions. When I last posted I was
> going to listen to the engine
> while disconnected from the head...no sound. In went lifters, push rods,
> and rocker shaft (which
> had been completely re-dismantled and checked in painful detail)....turned
> engine over with no
> ignition....no sound (other than what you'd expect).So....after a strong
> cup of tea and a deep breath,
> I fired it up and.....son of a gun, no sound.
> What have I learned? Well I could tell you a lot about what wasn't causing
> the noise, but the real cause
> shall probably remain a mystery..maybe an oil feed problem, maybe not.
> I read a great book called "Jupiter's Travels" by Ted Simon, who rode
> around the world on a Triumph
> motor bike in the early seventies; I remember a photo of the bike in some
> wild locale, completely
> stripped to the frame with the caption saying some thing like " I searched
> for an electrical fault, which I
> never found, but when I put it back together the damn thing
> worked."....well at least I wasn't doing
> this in the Kalahari, and I had the list!
> Cheers, Stephen what fantastic oil pressure Hutchings
Great news....I can sleep tonight ;-)
--
Regards,
Mike aren't you glad tha you don't do this for a living Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
From Bill Pollock <wjpollock at erols.com>
Date: Mon, 07 Aug 2000 21:27:26 -0400
Subject: BN6 bumper brackets
WANTED- Front bumper brackets for a BN6. Correct shape is important.
Contact me off line.
Thanks
Bill Pollock
CT
From "Allen Adams" <aadamsjr at earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2000 19:55:07 -0700
Subject: Fw: Names Calling continued
It's not vanity. It's fun. And in my case it helps all those cars that pass
with people leaning out of the windows straining to read what kind of car it
is.
Al Adams
59BT7 ( Cal. plates- 1HEALEY)
----- Original Message -----
From: <KingPinion@aol.com>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 06, 2000 8:45 PM
Subject: Re: Names Calling continued
>
> I always figured that if you had a cool, classic car, the need for such
> personalized vanity plates was moot. I mean even a beat-up 100/6 on a
flatbed
> or roadside BJ8, missing a knock off - still turns more heads and garners
> more attention than most anything else out there on the highway.
>
From "Keith R. Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Tue, 08 Aug 2000 00:01:22 -0400
Subject: Re: Fw: Names Calling continued
Allen Adams wrote:
>
> It's not vanity. It's fun. And in my case it helps all those cars that pass
> with people leaning out of the windows straining to read what kind of car it
> is.
>
> Al Adams
> 59BT7 ( Cal. plates- 1HEALEY)
Al,
I agree. It is fun! Not only is there character supplied by or
ascribed to a vehicle, but around our house it is just plain more
convenient to refer to a particular vehicle by a name.
Our old stable has:
93 dark green Dakota PU "Reptile"
88 black Bonneville "Darth"
89 white Century "Lea"
no longer owned 88 silver blue Toy PU "Luke"
1960 BN7 "Patches" it has lots of them!
1967 BJ8 "Baby Car" named by my son when he was 2
From "Keith R. Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Tue, 08 Aug 2000 00:03:34 -0400
Subject: Re: Fw: Names Calling continued
Allen Adams wrote:
>
> It's not vanity. It's fun. And in my case it helps all those cars that pass
> with people leaning out of the windows straining to read what kind of car it
> is.
>
> Al Adams
> 59BT7 ( Cal. plates- 1HEALEY)
And BTW none of those names are on the plates!
From J & L Armour <sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au>
Date: Tue, 08 Aug 2000 22:07:35 +0000
Subject: Targa Florio
Targa Florio 1965 the Mountain Legend video.
This film has footage showing several of the key Donald Healey Motor
Company team personnel ie Geoff Healey, Tommy Wisdom, Paddy Hopkirk,
Clive Baker, Paul Hawkins and Timo Makinen. At one particular series of
corners a right and then left hand, the 3000 takes the left hander with
the front left hand wheel off the ground and as the car approaches the
photographer the driver (either Hawkins or Makinen) takes his hand off
the right hand drive steering wheel and waves to the photographer.This
can only be seen on the film in slow motion.
I challenge the more enthusiastic of Healey drivers to try this on their
favourite sequence of corners.
Joe
From J & L Armour <sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au>
Date: Tue, 08 Aug 2000 22:08:35 +0000
Subject: Le Mans 2000
Austin Healeys return to Le Mans for this years event. Prior to the main
race there was a parade of historic sports cars allowed out onto the
famous track for four high speed laps.
One of the cars was a 3000 prepared for modern historic racing.
The other car (HNX 456D) was the original Donald Healey Motor Company
race car for 1967 and 68.In these years the car was entered in the
prototype class and was the best finishing British car on both
occasions.Roger Menadue was very proud of this achievement as he had
been going to Le Mans with Healeys since 1949.In 2000 the car had lost
none of its speed and was doing 7200RPM in 5th gear down Mulsanne
straight.
If any listers see this event shown on US TV sports programs I would
love to get a copy. Thanks in advance.
Joe
From PBetbeze at aol.com
Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2000 09:36:04 EDT
Subject: Fuel Gage Problem
One problem with Healey fuel gages is bad grounds. Make sure yours is well
grounded. Run a separate wire to the frame from the tank unit body. If this
doesn't help make it read correctly remove the tank unit and move the float
through it's range. It should read full with the float fully up and empty
with the float fully down. If it does you should be able to adjust the end
points of it range (Full &Empty) or at least one of them by bending the rod.
If it won't read F&E when manually operating it WITH A GOOD GROUND either the
tank unit or instrument is bad. Arnold, BN-7
From Ed Santoro <esantoro at drbc.state.nj.us>
Date: Tue, 08 Aug 2000 09:59:15 -0700
Subject: Austin Healey Encounter
To the healey list: I may have missed the boat... Is their an Austin
Healey Encounter scheduled soon for the eastern US ? I recall the last
one was in New Jersey. If anyone on the list knows where and when and
the agenda I would appreciate hearing from you. TIA, EDS
From "JISah102" <ah102 at home.com>
Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2000 10:18:56 -0400
Subject: Re: Austin Healey Encounter
ED go to http://www.austin-healey-stc.org/
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: Ed Santoro <esantoro@drbc.state.nj.us>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 12:59 PM
Subject: Austin Healey Encounter
>
> To the healey list: I may have missed the boat... Is their an Austin
> Healey Encounter scheduled soon for the eastern US ? I recall the last
> one was in New Jersey. If anyone on the list knows where and when and
> the agenda I would appreciate hearing from you. TIA, EDS
>
>
>
>
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2000 10:28:50 -0400
Subject: RE: Austin Healey Encounter
Ed,
The information I have is Encounter 2000 will be held 8/16 - 8/19 at
the Sheraton Park Ridge, Valley Forge, Pa... more info is on their
website... www.austin-healey-stc.org... I plan on being there...
Steve
61 BN7(with a
little6 on the horn button) ;-)
-----Original Message-----
From: Ed Santoro [mailto:esantoro@drbc.state.nj.us]
Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 12:59 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Austin Healey Encounter
To the healey list: I may have missed the boat... Is their an Austin
Healey Encounter scheduled soon for the eastern US ? I recall the last
one was in New Jersey. If anyone on the list knows where and when and
the agenda I would appreciate hearing from you. TIA, EDS
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2000 08:45:36 -0600
Subject: Fw: Time Management
For all,
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
59 AH :{) 54 BN1
Click below for webpage and mopeds:
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 8:31 AM
Subject: FW: Time Management
>
> Subject: Time Management
>
>
> I got this from someone recently. Very thought provoking for me. Thought
I
>
> would share it.--------------------
>
>
> The older I get, the more I enjoy Saturday mornings. Perhaps it's the
> quiet
> solitude that comes with being the first to rise, or maybe it's the
> unbounded joy of not having to be at work.
>
> Either way, the first few hours of a Saturday morning are most enjoyable.
> A few weeks ago, I was shuffling toward the kitchen with a steaming cup of
> coffee in one hand and the morning paper in the other. What began as a
> typical Saturday morning turned into one
> of those lessons that life seems to hand you from time to time. Let me
> tell you about it.
>
> I turned the volume up on my radio in order to listen to a Saturday
> morning
> talk show. I heard an older sounding chap with a golden voice. You know
the
> kind - he sounded like he should be in the broadcasting business himself.
> He was talking about "a thousand marbles" to someone named "Tom".
>
> I was intrigued and sat down to listen to what he had to say. "Well, Tom,
> it sure sounds like
> you're busy with your job. I'm sure they pay you well but it's a shame you
> have to be away from
> home and your family so much. Hard to believe a young fellow should have
> to work sixty or
> seventy hours a week to make ends meet. Too bad you missed your
> daughter's
> dance recital."
>
> He continued, "Let me tell you something Tom, something that has helped me
> keep a good perspective on my own priorities." And that's when he began to
> explain his theory of a "thousand marbles."
>
> "You see, I sat down one day and did a little arithmetic. The average
> person lives about seventy-five years. I know - some live more and some
> live
> less, but on average, folks live about seventy-five years."
>
> "Now then, I multiplied 75 times 52 weeks and I came up with 3900, which
> is
> the number of Saturdays that the average person has in their entire
> lifetime. Now stick with me Tom, I'm getting to the important part. It
> took
> me until I was fifty-five years old to think about all this in any
detail",
> he went on, "and by that time I had lived through over twenty-eight
hundred
> Saturdays. I got to thinking that if I lived to be seventy-five, I only
> had
> about a thousand of them left to enjoy."
>
> "So I went to a toy store and bought every single marble they had. I ended
> up having to visit three toy stores to round-up 1000 marbles. I took
them
> home and put them inside of a large, clear plastic container right here in
> my workshop next to the radio. Every Saturday since then, I have taken one
> marble out and thrown it away."
>
> "I found that by watching the marbles diminish, I focused more on the
> really important things in life. There is nothing like really watching
your
> time here on this earth run out to help get your priorities straight."
>
> "Now let me tell you one last thing before I sign off with you and take my
> lovely wife out for breakfast. This morning, I took the very last marble
> out
> of the container. So, I figure if I make it until next Saturday then I
have
> been given a little extra time. And the one thing we can all use and we
all
> want is a little more time."
>
> "It was nice to talk to you Tom, I hope you spend more time with your
> loved
> ones, and I hope to
> meet you again someday. Have a good morning!" You could have heard a pin
> drop when he finished. Even the show's moderator didn't have anything to
> say
> for a few moments. I guess he gave us all a lot to think about. I had
> planned to do some work that morning, then go to the gym. Instead, I went
> upstairs and woke my wife up with a kiss. "C'mon honey, I'm taking you and
> the kids to breakfast."
>
> "What brought this on?" she asked with a smile.
> "Oh, nothing special, it's just been a long time since we spent a Saturday
> together with the kids. Hey, can we stop at a toy store while we're out? I
> need to buy some marbles."
>
> YOU HAVE A GREAT WEEKEND AND MAY ALL SATURDAYS BE SPECIAL!
>
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2000 10:49:20 EDT
Subject: Heartland Healey Fest
Hi Listers,
Does anyone know the date for the Heartland Healey car show in Davenport,
Iowa? It usually is in August. We plan to be there to visit family and
would like to include the show, even if we don't take the BN4.
Rudy Streng
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2000 10:46:23 EDT
Subject: Re: Austin Healey Encounter
Encounter is August 16-20 at Valley Forge, PA. It is hosted by the
Philadelphia Region of the Austin-Healey Sports and Touring club. Contact
Lloyd Beverly at (215) 343-7457 or LBVMK111@cs.com or Ray Donovan (215)
699-8355 or email Rjdisi@aol.com
Rudy Streng
From Jhayspu at aol.com
Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2000 17:33:38 EDT
Subject: Southeast Classic help
I need to contact the Southeast Classic; however, all of the contact
information went in the mail with the registration. A little help please
with a name/phone number.
Jerry Hay
BT7
From Herman Farrer <herman at hfphoto.com>
Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2000 17:55:28 -0400
Subject: UKY2K cars
For those of you that would like to see the cars arriving in
Baltimore, follow this link.
http://lightning.prohosting.com/~caahc/Photos/UKY2K/uky2k.html
Herman
--
AHCA Delegate
Webmaster
Capital Area Austin Healey Club
http://lightning.prohosting.com/~caahc
From "rons" <arjayarjay at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Tue, 08 Aug 2000 15:59:23 +0000
Subject: Looking for Cory
Cory, sorry to bomb the list but I need your address. My computer crashed
and I can't find it anywhere. I need to send you a check. Ron
From RAWDAWGS at aol.com
Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2000 00:44:45 EDT
Subject: ocean shores
Where are the pictures from the Ocean Shores roundup? I am in particular
looking for a Healey spotted there with a fresh metallic silver paint job, I
understand it looked great and as I am going to the paint shop in a couple of
weeks, I'd like to check it out. Thanks in advance, SM.
Scott McPherson
Lake Charles (Currently at Cannon Beach Ore)
[This message was delayed due to non-existent editing of the reply by the
original poster, requiring human intervention. mjb.]
From Barry Pate <jbpate at attglobal.net>
Date: Tue, 08 Aug 2000 21:25:25 -0400
Subject: Re: Fuel Gage Problem
It is very important that the wiper arm makes good and solid contact with the
wire wound resistor inside the sending unit. It may also be that the resistor is
open or the contact at the terminal is bad. The resistor should measure about 70
ohms when disconnected from the fuel gauge. Barry Pate
PBetbeze@aol.com wrote:
> One problem with Healey fuel gages is bad grounds. Make sure yours is well
> grounded. Run a separate wire to the frame from the tank unit body. If this
> doesn't help make it read correctly remove the tank unit and move the float
> through it's range. It should read full with the float fully up and empty
> with the float fully down. If it does you should be able to adjust the end
> points of it range (Full &Empty) or at least one of them by bending the rod.
> If it won't read F&E when manually operating it WITH A GOOD GROUND either the
> tank unit or instrument is bad. Arnold, BN-7
--
GIF89aHH
From Barry Pate <jbpate at attglobal.net>
Date: Tue, 08 Aug 2000 21:44:34 -0400
Subject: Wiring harness/tires
Is it possible to buy portions of the wiring harness or does it come as
one. The dash wiring is really dirty and needs replacing. The run to the
trunk is in good shape. Also would like to know if anyone has tried
Yokohama 185x70x15 on mini-lites. I think this size will fit in the
wheel wells and is about the same height as the originals.Barry Pate
--
GIF89aHH
From Jhayspu at aol.com
Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2000 21:54:55 EDT
Subject: Southeast Classic help
Thanks to everyone who supplied Alan Teague's phone and e mail.
From "Bruce Starke" <bstarke at redshift.bc.ca>
Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2000 19:56:46 -0600
Subject: distributor
Hi there listers---I need some advice please:
I have a distributor DM6 40532 which came with the rest of the pieces of my
tricarb. According to the books, I need DM6 40662 (same as I have in my
early BJ7). Is there any reason why I should not use this distributor? or
should I try and swop it for the later one. Are the advance curves very
different---what are the differences in practical terms and can a Pertronix
contactless ignition correct this.
Thanks for any help.
BRUCE STARKE
GOLDEN BC
63 BJ7
62 Tricarb (aiming to be on the road next year)
From Lynn and Jean Neff <lynnneff at springnet1.com>
Date: Tue, 08 Aug 2000 21:45:19 -0500
Subject: Not Healey Related
Last night we watched "The Birds."
What kind of car was Tippi driving? An Aston Martin? It looked and
sounded good.
Lynn BT7
From "Keith R. Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Tue, 08 Aug 2000 23:13:20 -0400
Subject: Re: Wiring harness/tires
Barry Pate wrote:
>
Also would like to know if anyone has tried
> Yokohama 185x70x15 on mini-lites. I think this size will fit in the
> wheel wells and is about the same height as the originals.Barry Pate
>
> --
> GIF89aHH
Barry,
I have the above tires on Minilite repros, bolt on type not spline
drive. Looks very good in the wheel wells diameterwise, but I believe
you will find that the spline drive wheels extend the tires just
slightly outside the opening. Height appears to be quite close when I
compared to an orig Dunlop tire.
Let me warn you that the above tires are extremely hard to come by based
upon my experience and also what others have said.
Keith Pennell
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2000 23:28:25 EDT
Subject: Putzke's Fahrspass
I promised a report on the Bilstein kit.
well, my car has new nuts welded into the towers so the front supplied
mounting bolts wont work. I did, however, get the Bilsteins onto the rear
(where they are needed most)
Viva le difference! The car is amazingly stable even while accelerating
through a curve over railroad crossings.
I'm not being paid to say this. I'm really blown away by how freaking smooth
this car is now driving. The live rear axle has been tamed. that sumbish just
stays glued to the road and the feeling of the car actually pushing the car
around is surely much more positive than the way it used to just get light
and float along behind the car while it wasted time hopping around and such.
All of the wheel hop complaints of the original period reviews of the car
have been totally eliminated.
More when I get the fronts on.
And remember: IT'S A BOLT ON REVERSABLE MOD!
Rick
San Diego
P.S. "Fahrspass" is like "Fahrfergnugen" only with "spass" (fun) instead
"fergnugen" (pleasure)
From William Moyer <William.Moyer at millersv.edu>
Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2000 23:51:46 -0400
Subject: RE: Wiring harness/tires
-----Original Message-----
From: Barry Pate
Is it possible to buy portions of the wiring harness or does it come as
one. The dash wiring is really dirty and needs replacing. The run to the
trunk is in good shape.
It's possible to buy anything, for a price. The price isn't always only
money. Replacing a wiring harness is a complex process made easier by the
many suggestions on this list. Doing it a piece at a time I haven't seen
recommended very often. IMHO, it might be time to bite the bullet. Others
might disagree. In any event the harness is intimately connected with the
dash wiring. Meaning continuous. Meaning not modular. And just how dirty
is the dash wiring? Dirt on wires, connectors, what? If its really filthy,
not just dusty, I'd wonder how the filth got there. Does it work? Maybe
don't mess with it, other than cleaning it up.
Good Luck,
Bill Moyer, BJ7
From "Bob Judd" <bob.judd at quokka.com>
Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2000 21:47:16 -0700
Subject: RE: Putzke's Fahrspass
Sounds great, Rick. Where can I get them? Bob Judd, A-Wheeley
-----Original Message-----
From: WilKo@aol.com
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: 8/8/00 8:28 PM
Subject: Putzke's Fahrspass
I promised a report on the Bilstein kit.
well, my car has new nuts welded into the towers so the front supplied
mounting bolts wont work. I did, however, get the Bilsteins onto the
rear
(where they are needed most)
Viva le difference! The car is amazingly stable even while accelerating
through a curve over railroad crossings.
I'm not being paid to say this. I'm really blown away by how freaking
smooth
this car is now driving. The live rear axle has been tamed. that sumbish
just
stays glued to the road and the feeling of the car actually pushing the
car
around is surely much more positive than the way it used to just get
light
and float along behind the car while it wasted time hopping around and
such.
All of the wheel hop complaints of the original period reviews of the
car
have been totally eliminated.
More when I get the fronts on.
And remember: IT'S A BOLT ON REVERSABLE MOD!
Rick
San Diego
P.S. "Fahrspass" is like "Fahrfergnugen" only with "spass" (fun) instead
"fergnugen" (pleasure)
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Tue, 08 Aug 2000 22:10:26 -0700
Subject: Between a rocker and a hard place
Hi all,
Is it better to rebuild the rockershaft with a hardened (tuftrided)
shaft or will the bushes wear prematurely because of the harder shaft?
Any tips for the rebuilding process? I have access to a machine shop for
reaming the bushings and drilling the oil holes but I don't want to hunt
down any strange noises afterwards ;o)
John Loftus
BJ-7 (frequently referred to as "the mistress" by my wife)
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 01:40:21 EDT
Subject: Re: Not Healey Related
In a message dated 8/8/00 8:09:09 PM, lynnneff@springnet1.com writes:
<< What kind of car was Tippi driving? An Aston Martin? It looked and
sounded good. >>
yes--been awhile since I've seen the movie, but I think it was a DB2/4. (one
generation before the James Bond passenger-flipper, oil spitter, tire
splitter one.
Cheers
Gary
From "Karlsson Magnus" <healey at telia.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 10:43:01 +0200
Subject: SV: Targa Florio
Where can this video be bought?
Magnus Karlsson
SWEDEN
----- Original Message -----
From: J & L Armour <sebring@illawarra.hotkey.net.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2000 12:07 AM
Subject: Targa Florio
>
> Targa Florio 1965 the Mountain Legend video.
>
> This film has footage showing several of the key Donald Healey Motor
> Company team personnel ie Geoff Healey, Tommy Wisdom, Paddy Hopkirk,
> Clive Baker, Paul Hawkins and Timo Makinen. At one particular series of
> corners a right and then left hand, the 3000 takes the left hander with
> the front left hand wheel off the ground and as the car approaches the
> photographer the driver (either Hawkins or Makinen) takes his hand off
> the right hand drive steering wheel and waves to the photographer.This
> can only be seen on the film in slow motion.
>
> I challenge the more enthusiastic of Healey drivers to try this on their
> favourite sequence of corners.
> Joe
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 09 Aug 2000 07:00:12 -0400
Subject: Re: Between a rocker and a hard place
John Loftus wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> Is it better to rebuild the rockershaft with a hardened (tuftrided)
> shaft or will the bushes wear prematurely because of the harder shaft?
> Any tips for the rebuilding process? I have access to a machine shop for
> reaming the bushings and drilling the oil holes but I don't want to hunt
> down any strange noises afterwards ;o)
>
> John Loftus
> BJ-7 (frequently referred to as "the mistress" by my wife)
Hi John,
Some tips on this job.
If you carefully mark and drill one of the holes in the bushes before you
press them in you won't have to remove the plugs from the ends of the
rockers. We use a 1/8" drill for this job.
Also ensure that whoever reams the rockers uses a reamer not a hone. As I
understand it the particles of the hone stones will become embedded in the
bush and cause accelerated wear of the new shaft.
Although it may cost a little more, we have had very good success with
shafts that have been ground and hardchromed. They seem to last for ever.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
From Ed Santoro <esantoro at drbc.state.nj.us>
Date: Wed, 09 Aug 2000 08:56:14 -0700
Subject: Re: Not Healey Related
Lynn: I saw the same picture. I believe, although not positive that it
was some type of early Ferrari as identified by the front grille. EDS
Lynn and Jean Neff wrote:
> Last night we watched "The Birds."
>
> What kind of car was Tippi driving? An Aston Martin? It looked and
> sounded good.
>
> Lynn BT7
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 09 Aug 2000 09:08:51 -0400
Subject: Re: distributor
Bruce Starke wrote:
> Hi there listers---I need some advice please:
> I have a distributor DM6 40532 which came with the rest of the pieces of my
> tricarb. According to the books, I need DM6 40662 (same as I have in my
> early BJ7). Is there any reason why I should not use this distributor? or
> should I try and swop it for the later one. Are the advance curves very
> different---what are the differences in practical terms and can a Pertronix
> contactless ignition correct this.
> Thanks for any help.
> BRUCE STARKE
> GOLDEN BC
> 63 BJ7
> 62 Tricarb (aiming to be on the road next year)
The check points on the 40532 distributor are
1500 : 11-13 ; 500 : 7-9; 300 : 1.5-4.5 No advance below 150.
For the 40662
2000 : 14-16 ; 1150 : 12-14 ; 500 : 3-6 No advance below 300
These curves are probably similar enough that you would not notice any
difference however for the best performance (using the correct fuel) the
correct distributor would be better.
A Pertronix unit will work in this distributor and if installed correctly
should not change the advance curves.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 06:56:42 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Monterey Historics
Gary,
Thanks for the insider information. There are so many
events one has to pace themselves to really enjoy the
weekend. I concur with your recommendations. Although
I am not sure that I'll be up for driving the the
parade of cars after spending most of the day in the
car. Might be a good time to relax.
Last year I only saw a couple of Healeys all weekend.
I checked and there won't be a Healey Coral this
weekend at the races. It is too bad as that would be
a nice natural place to say hello. Next year I may
take the challenge and try to get it arranged.
Dean
--- Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 8/3/00 9:43:35 AM,
> healeybn7@yahoo.com writes:
>
> << My weekend typically looks like this:
> Friday am: Drive up
> Friday: Cannery Row to watch the parade of cars
> Saturday: Races
> Saturday Night: Auction/Cannery Row
> Sunday: Very very eary to Pebble Beach to watch the
> cars unload and back to the races.
> Sunday: Drive back home
>
> Hope to see you there,
> Dean
> BN7 >>
>
> Good schedule to prevent burn-out (of owner or of
> car, sitting in traffic).
> Couple of additional comments:
>
> If you are driving any kind of hobby car to
> Monterey, then consider
> participating in the rolling concours in Pacific
> Grove, rather than just
> watching them go by on Cannery Row. Cars assemble on
> Lighthouse Avenue in
> Pacific Grove before leaving at 6 pm on their tour,
> so you can see them there
> in an informal car show in the afternoon (last year
> we wound up grabbing a
> window table in a restaurant on the main drag about
> five pm and having the
> cars entertain us during supper.
>
> RM Auction at the Monterey Doubletree is probably
> the least expensive car
> event going. Cars are on display at the hotel on
> Friday and Saturday
> afternoons and auctioned off in the evenings from
> about 7 to about 11. I
> think an admission bracelet is about ten dollars
> (mark of distinction is
> having the most admission bracelets for different
> events -- you'll see people
> with five, six, or more).
>
> If you don't mind sitting in a little traffic on
> Sunday morning, a very cheap
> and fun thing to do is to get to Seventeen mile
> drive about 6 am -- you
> should be able to get parked in an area near enough
> to walk to Pebble Beach
> Lodge (get a good detailed map of the area -- Del
> Monte Forest is a very
> complicated place). From about six am they start
> unloading the cars from the
> trucks on the polo field near the lodge, and then
> drive them over to the
> lodge. You get to see them close-up, being cleaned,
> started and driven.
> It's like watching the elephants unload at the
> circus when we were young, and
> it costs absolutely nothing -- once they're on the
> field, its a hundred bucks
> a ticket.
>
> When the cars are all gone, then drive to Laguna
> Seca for the races. You'll
> still be stuck in traffic, but the only alternative
> is to go to the track
> before 8 am.
>
> Cheers
> Gary
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Kick off your party with Yahoo! Invites.
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From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 09 Aug 2000 09:42:23 -0400
Subject: Re: Tach drive Seal
Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
> Mike--
>
> When I first examined the tach drive unit I thought that the rtaining collar
> was part of a recessed disc sitting on top of the seal--the seal is so hard
> that I though it was a metal cover and that is why I was a bit confused as to
> the seal's removal. I would up simply removing the collar with a small
> screwdriver and presto--out came the seal!Thanks again for your patience and
> great instructions.
>
> BTW, do yo know anything about the shift knob with the built-in overdrive
> switch that was on the Rallye cars? Do you sell those?
>
> Michael
I think Denis Welch sells them.
I do know that Lucas spent a lot of time developing the switch for the MGB,
Volvo, Triumph 2000 which fits on the top of the shift lever and that if I was
going to go that route that is the one that I would select.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From Rick Snover <rsnover at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Wed, 09 Aug 2000 06:58:21 -0700
Subject: RE: Putzke's Fahrspass
http://home.att.net/~putzkes_fahrspass/
At 09:47 PM 08/08/00 -0700, Bob Judd wrote:
> Sounds great, Rick. Where can I get them? Bob Judd, A-Wheeley
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: WilKo@aol.com
>Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
>Sent: 8/8/00 8:28 PM
>Subject: Putzke's Fahrspass
>
>I promised a report on the Bilstein kit....
From James B Dalglish <leaker at exit109.com>
Date: Wed, 09 Aug 2000 10:28:56 -0400
Subject: Re: Not Healey Related
It's an Aston Martin DB2/4
Jim D
Ed Santoro wrote:
> Lynn: I saw the same picture. I believe, although not positive that it
> was some type of early Ferrari as identified by the front grille. EDS
>
> Lynn and Jean Neff wrote:
>
> > Last night we watched "The Birds."
> >
> > What kind of car was Tippi driving? An Aston Martin? It looked and
> > sounded good.
> >
> > Lynn BT7
From njones at amadeus.net
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 17:05:53 +0200
Subject: Re: Overdrive switch
If I remember correctly this Triumph switch was fitted on top on the gear lever
shaft
and had the wires running intergrally down the the inside of the shaft...good
design
I've also thought that would be a better looking switch than the replica rally
switch that
Cape International and Denis Welch sell.
Capes switch incidentally has a rounded edge top to it which would feel nicer in
the hand than the Welch one which
is flat with no curved edge..
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 08:35:47 -0700
Subject: RE: Wiring harness/tires
I have the tires on a BJ8 with 5.5 inch mag wheels and think the tires are
great.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
-----Original Message-----
From: Barry Pate [mailto:jbpate@attglobal.net]
Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 6:45 PM
To: Austin Healey
Subject: Wiring harness/tires
Is it possible to buy portions of the wiring harness or does it come as
one. The dash wiring is really dirty and needs replacing. The run to the
trunk is in good shape. Also would like to know if anyone has tried
Yokohama 185x70x15 on mini-lites. I think this size will fit in the
wheel wells and is about the same height as the originals.Barry Pate
--
GIF89aHH
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 08:38:13 -0700
Subject: Yoko availability
Regarding the Yoko's being hard to come by. I got them from British Wire
Wheel.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
-----Original Message-----
From: Keith R. Pennell [mailto:pennell@whro.net]
Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 8:13 PM
To: Barry Pate
Cc: Austin Healey
Subject: Re: Wiring harness/tires
Barry Pate wrote:
>
Also would like to know if anyone has tried
> Yokohama 185x70x15 on mini-lites. I think this size will fit in the
> wheel wells and is about the same height as the originals.Barry Pate
>
> --
> GIF89aHH
Barry,
I have the above tires on Minilite repros, bolt on type not spline
drive. Looks very good in the wheel wells diameterwise, but I believe
you will find that the spline drive wheels extend the tires just
slightly outside the opening. Height appears to be quite close when I
compared to an orig Dunlop tire.
Let me warn you that the above tires are extremely hard to come by based
upon my experience and also what others have said.
Keith Pennell
From "jim t.p. ryan" <ryan at jimryan.com>
Date: Wed, 09 Aug 2000 08:38:50 -0700
Subject: Re: Putzke's Fahrspass
Where did you get them, and what was the cost?
Sincerely,
Jim Ryan
64 bj7
-----Original Message-----
From: WilKo@aol.com
Sent: Tue, 8 Aug 2000 23:28:25 EDT
CC: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Putzke's Fahrspass
I promised a report on the Bilstein kit.
well, my car has new nuts welded into the towers so the front supplied
mounting bolts wont work. I did, however, get the Bilsteins onto the rear
(where they are needed most)
Viva le difference! The car is amazingly stable even while accelerating
through a curve over railroad crossings.
I'm not being paid to say this. I'm really blown away by how freaking smooth
this car is now driving. The live rear axle has been tamed. that sumbish just
stays glued to the road and the feeling of the car actually pushing the car
around is surely much more positive than the way it used to just get light
and float along behind the car while it wasted time hopping around and such.
All of the wheel hop complaints of the original period reviews of the car
have been totally eliminated.
More when I get the fronts on.
And remember: IT'S A BOLT ON REVERSABLE MOD!
Rick
San Diego
P.S. "Fahrspass" is like "Fahrfergnugen" only with "spass" (fun) instead
"fergnugen" (pleasure)
___________________________________________________________________________
Visit http://www.visto.com/info, your free web-based communications center.
Visto.com. Life on the Dot.
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 08:41:45 -0700
Subject: RE: distributor
Is that engine RPM or distributor RPM?
Ken Freese
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Salter [mailto:magicare@home.com]
Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2000 6:09 AM
To: Bruce Starke
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: distributor
Bruce Starke wrote:
> Hi there listers---I need some advice please:
> I have a distributor DM6 40532 which came with the rest of the pieces of
my
> tricarb. According to the books, I need DM6 40662 (same as I have in my
> early BJ7). Is there any reason why I should not use this distributor? or
> should I try and swop it for the later one. Are the advance curves very
> different---what are the differences in practical terms and can a
Pertronix
> contactless ignition correct this.
> Thanks for any help.
> BRUCE STARKE
> GOLDEN BC
> 63 BJ7
> 62 Tricarb (aiming to be on the road next year)
The check points on the 40532 distributor are
1500 : 11-13 ; 500 : 7-9; 300 : 1.5-4.5 No advance below 150.
For the 40662
2000 : 14-16 ; 1150 : 12-14 ; 500 : 3-6 No advance below 300
These curves are probably similar enough that you would not notice any
difference however for the best performance (using the correct fuel) the
correct distributor would be better.
A Pertronix unit will work in this distributor and if installed correctly
should not change the advance curves.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 08:43:55 -0700
Subject: Re: Wiring harness/tires
British Wire Wheel sells the Yoko 185's. I just bought a full set a month
or so ago. Excellent tires and look great too. They do rub inside just a bit
under full lock. Randy ('66 BJ8)
>
> Barry Pate wrote:
> >
> Also would like to know if anyone has tried
> > Yokohama 185x70x15 on mini-lites. I think this size will fit in the
> > wheel wells and is about the same height as the originals.Barry Pate
> >
> > --
> > GIF89aHH
>
> Barry,
>
> I have the above tires on Minilite repros, bolt on type not spline
> drive. Looks very good in the wheel wells diameterwise, but I believe
> you will find that the spline drive wheels extend the tires just
> slightly outside the opening. Height appears to be quite close when I
> compared to an orig Dunlop tire.
>
> Let me warn you that the above tires are extremely hard to come by based
> upon my experience and also what others have said.
>
> Keith Pennell
>
From Ed Santoro <esantoro at drbc.state.nj.us>
Date: Wed, 09 Aug 2000 11:58:22 -0700
Subject: Re: Not Healey Related
Jim: Are you sure I've seen DB2/4 and the back end came up to a point. the
car in the movie was rounded! EDS
James B Dalglish wrote:
> It's an Aston Martin DB2/4
>
> Jim D
>
> Ed Santoro wrote:
>
> > Lynn: I saw the same picture. I believe, although not positive that it
> > was some type of early Ferrari as identified by the front grille. EDS
> >
> > Lynn and Jean Neff wrote:
> >
> > > Last night we watched "The Birds."
> > >
> > > What kind of car was Tippi driving? An Aston Martin? It looked and
> > > sounded good.
> > >
> > > Lynn BT7
From "Ross Maylor" <obiedog at telusplanet.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 10:04:36 -0600
Subject: Poor Journalism?
I was off the list for a while so this may have already run its course. The
August issue of Classic and Sports Car has two healeys on the cover and an
article comparing the Frogeye and 3000. Funny it didn't look like a BN7 as
was claimed. My pet peeve...backwards "Parker Pen" side flashes!
OK, I am stuck working far from my Healey and I am bored!
Ross Maylor
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 12:11:02 EDT
Subject: Re: Not Healey Related
In a message dated 8/9/00 6:16:33 AM, esantoro@drbc.state.nj.us writes:
<< Lynn: I saw the same picture. I believe, although not positive that it
was some type of early Ferrari as identified by the front grille. EDS >>
Nope -- definitely an Aston. Hitchcock is known, at least among car
afficionados, for his use of good British cars in his pictures (Jaguar in
Vertigo, Sunbeam in To Catch a Thief, Aston in Birds, etc.)
Cheers
Gary
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 12:14:09 EDT
Subject: Re: Monterey Historics
In a message dated 8/9/00 6:38:06 AM, healeybn7@yahoo.com writes:
<<
Last year I only saw a couple of Healeys all weekend.
I checked and there won't be a Healey Coral this
weekend at the races. It is too bad as that would be
a nice natural place to say hello. Next year I may
take the challenge and try to get it arranged. >>
Would be a great idea -- though it's pretty challenging -- the tickets have
gotten quite expensive, the club has to buy them in advance, and I think the
minimum number to qualify for a club corral is about 40 cars. As a result,
the upfront investment is over $1500. Solution might be to band together
with several clubs and set up a British Corral.
Cheers
gary
From "Michael Lempert" <mdlempert at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 12:18:22 -0400
Subject: Re: Names- continued
I too like the idea of referring to the car with a name. I remember when I
was a kid, we had an old wooden rowboat at our lake house named Sparky.
It's still there in the form of fertilizer. My brother has named his boat
Flatdog - that's another story.
The Bugeye I picked up this year came with one of its personalized plates.
It reads ISA BUG. Get it ? The PO referred to the car as Isa and "she".
So I also know the gender. I've maintained the nickname Isa, although the
plates are standard NJ Historic.
My first Healey, the BN7, has a personalized plate. It reads AHELY.
Unfortunately, NJ only allows for five characters on personalized Historic
plates. We refer to the BT7 as Beast, but lately I've just been calling it
"for sale".
The BN2 I picked up last year provided a much more fun opportunity for
names. It came from Alaska and was owned by a retired Air Force Colonel by
the name of William Clinton (he went by his middle name, Doug, for obvious
reasons). I think his wife had something to do with the car going, so
naturally we named it Monica.
Regards,
Mike L.
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 13:32:19 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: IMPORTANT re Firestone Recall
I'm writing this to all of my email friends.
I consider myself a car guy and I'm a Lawyer and I URGE everyone who reads this
who drives an SUV or a Pick-up who is running on Firestone tires OF ANY DESIGN
and ANY SIZE to IMMEDIATELY go to their nearest Firestone Dealer or Car Dealer
and INSIST that your tires be de-mounted and replaced with OTHER THAN FIRESTONE
TIRES.
In 1978 Firestone had a lot of problems - almost identical to these, i.e. tread
separation - with their Firestone 500s - and recalled more than 12 million
tires AFTER STONEWALLING. The result was that Firestone was nearly put out of
business and was forced into the merger with Bridgestone.
NOW - Ford has been replacing these Firestone Tires in South America and
elsewhere for some time but has said nothing until last week. (I don't know
what Ford was thinking about)
Firestone NOW says there are "anomalies", whatever that means, and have
launched a half-assed recall BY REGIONS, which strikes me as nearly useless.
Their Recall also is limited to ONLY 2.35x75x15. Their 800 # is unreachable and
you can be sure they will claim "no supply" when you do show up.
If a tire has tread separation you will be a Great Risk - especially since the
vehicles on which these tires are mounted are Very prone to Roll-Over on Good
Tires. Losing a Tread will cause tremendous control problems.
I myself wouldn't drive another mile on a Firestone tire with a lug/aggresive
tread no matter what it's size and no matter what it is called.
If there is a manufacturing defect, which seems obvious, I sure wouldn't put
the same size and brand and design back on. Tires lie around at dealerships
for months and Firestone refuses to address why any replacement tires they are
offering won't have the same possible defects nor have they stated that the
replacement tires would be made in some different tire plant with different
technology.
So please get your Firestones Off Your Vehicles and put some other brand on.
AND DON'T TAKE NO FOR AN ANSWER from your Dealer or from Firestone.
I would hate to hear of an unnecesary accident involving anyone who reads this,
and I couldn't live with myself if my keeping silent contributed to a single
injury or worse.
Thanks for reading this
Dick Brill
----------------------------------------------------------------
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 09 Aug 2000 13:48:30 -0400
Subject: Re: distributor
"Freese, Ken" wrote:
> Is that engine RPM or distributor RPM?
> Ken Freese
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Michael Salter [mailto:magicare@home.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2000 6:09 AM
> To: Bruce Starke
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: distributor
>
> Bruce Starke wrote:
>
> > Hi there listers---I need some advice please:
> > I have a distributor DM6 40532 which came with the rest of the pieces of
> my
> > tricarb. According to the books, I need DM6 40662 (same as I have in my
> > early BJ7). Is there any reason why I should not use this distributor? or
> > should I try and swop it for the later one. Are the advance curves very
> > different---what are the differences in practical terms and can a
> Pertronix
> > contactless ignition correct this.
> > Thanks for any help.
> > BRUCE STARKE
> > GOLDEN BC
> > 63 BJ7
> > 62 Tricarb (aiming to be on the road next year)
>
> The check points on the 40532 distributor are
> 1500 : 11-13 ; 500 : 7-9; 300 : 1.5-4.5 No advance below 150.
>
> For the 40662
> 2000 : 14-16 ; 1150 : 12-14 ; 500 : 3-6 No advance below 300
>
> These curves are probably similar enough that you would not notice any
> difference however for the best performance (using the correct fuel) the
> correct distributor would be better.
> A Pertronix unit will work in this distributor and if installed correctly
> should not change the advance curves.
>
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
My mistake sorry....
Distributor RPM
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 09 Aug 2000 14:06:36 -0400
Subject: Re: Overdrive switch
njones@amadeus.net wrote:
> If I remember correctly this Triumph switch was fitted on top on the gear
>lever
> shaft
> and had the wires running intergrally down the the inside of the shaft...good
> design
>
> I've also thought that would be a better looking switch than the replica rally
> switch that
> Cape International and Denis Welch sell.
>
> Capes switch incidentally has a rounded edge top to it which would feel nicer
>in
> the hand than the Welch one which
> is flat with no curved edge..
Actually the wires o the MGB run down a slot cut on the front side of the lever
threads (quite deep) then out into the shift boot which extends almost up to
the
knob.
Unfortunately the thread on the Healey lever is smaller than the MGB so a fair
bit
of cut and paste may be required.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Wed, 09 Aug 2000 11:51:12 -0700
Subject: Re: Overdrive switch
How about wireless? If you can open and lock a car from 25 feet away
with a blob the size of a 50 cent piece (remember them?) then surely a
suitable transmitter could be fitted into a shift knob.
-Roland
On Wed, 09 Aug 2000 14:06:36 -0400, you wrote:
::
:: njones@amadeus.net wrote:
::
:: > If I remember correctly this Triumph switch was fitted on top on the gear
:lever
:: > shaft
:: > and had the wires running intergrally down the the inside of the
:shaft...good
:: > design
:: >
:: > I've also thought that would be a better looking switch than the replica
:rally
:: > switch that
:: > Cape International and Denis Welch sell.
:: >
:: > Capes switch incidentally has a rounded edge top to it which would feel
:nicer in
:: > the hand than the Welch one which
:: > is flat with no curved edge..
::
:: Actually the wires o the MGB run down a slot cut on the front side of the
:lever
:: threads (quite deep) then out into the shift boot which extends almost up
:to the
:: knob.
:: Unfortunately the thread on the Healey lever is smaller than the MGB so a
:fair bit
:: of cut and paste may be required.
From Martin Johnson <MJohnson at cfworks.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 13:10:29 -0700
Subject: RE: Poor Journalism?
I second your opinion, Ross. Further, I didn't much care for the writing
style. I think the author intended to make the article a bit more fun to
read. It had the raw materials for a good article without any additional
"help".
Martin Johnson
'59 BN7
'59 Sprite
-----Original Message-----
From: Ross Maylor [mailto:obiedog@telusplanet.net]
Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2000 9:05 AM
To: Healey List
Subject: Poor Journalism?
I was off the list for a while so this may have already run its course. The
August issue of Classic and Sports Car has two healeys on the cover and an
article comparing the Frogeye and 3000. Funny it didn't look like a BN7 as
was claimed. My pet peeve...backwards "Parker Pen" side flashes!
OK, I am stuck working far from my Healey and I am bored!
Ross Maylor
From D Job <djob at home.com>
Date: Wed, 09 Aug 2000 18:00:45 -0400
Subject: Re: Poor Journalism?
Martin,
I absolutely agree. Quite honestly the writing was appalling with
mangled syntax, mixed metaphors and absurdly long sentence structures
that made it incomprehensible in parts. I have written to the editor to
complain. Its not the first time that I've read poor pieces by this
particular journalist.
cheers Derek Job
58 BN4
Martin Johnson wrote:
>
> I second your opinion, Ross. Further, I didn't much care for the writing
> style. I think the author intended to make the article a bit more fun to
> read. It had the raw materials for a good article without any additional
> "help".
> Martin Johnson
> '59 BN7
> '59 Sprite
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ross Maylor [mailto:obiedog@telusplanet.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2000 9:05 AM
> To: Healey List
> Subject: Poor Journalism?
>
> I was off the list for a while so this may have already run its course. The
> August issue of Classic and Sports Car has two healeys on the cover and an
> article comparing the Frogeye and 3000. Funny it didn't look like a BN7 as
> was claimed. My pet peeve...backwards "Parker Pen" side flashes!
> OK, I am stuck working far from my Healey and I am bored!
>
> Ross Maylor
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 18:23:19 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: IMPORTANT re Firestone Recall
Well Larry, you know me well and you know I'm a Lawyer, BUT, that doesn't mean
I know EVERYTHING.
Having said that, we need you and Elaine around for as long as possible, so
here goes.
All of the large tire manufacturers produce their tires in lots of places -
France, Belgium, England, various parts of the US, etc. And that depends on
size and model - not on labor costs necessarily.
Firestone still refuses to admit that any of this is their fault. Up til now
they have said it's the Consumer's Fault for letting their tires run on low air
pressure. Their " rolling recall" is a Joke. Ask the people who live in
Atlanta or out in the Great Plains (who drive at higher speeds BTW) if their
highways are Hot. Firestone has also said that the product of the Decatur
Illinois plant has a higher percentage of tread failures. But they haven't said
a single word about a cause traceable to their tires. And they are offering the
do the Replacement with the same model tire ! When and where were Those made?
Tread failures occur on every brand and size and style of tire - once in a
while. Firestone's problems are way, way beyond "once in a while"
The Firestone problem is obviously Endemic. It's either due to Poor QC, OR
Poor Materials, OR Poor manufacturing Execution OR Poor Design. ---or all of
these.
I can't think of why any of these causes would be limited to one Firestone
plant or one Firestone Size and tread-style.
As I said before I wouldn't drive another mile on ANY Firestone tire, except to
the dealer.
BUT, last month I had a Right Front Blowout in my BT7 coming home from
ThunderBay - at 90 MPH. I had no problem slowing down and pulling on to the
shoulder. My tire was a Dunlop SP4 with Tube by the way and I replaced it with
an SP20, with a new tube. It was the very first front tire blowout I've ever
had.
These tread throwing incidents are causing roll-overs and thus horrible
consequences. Our Healeys are Not prone to roll-overs in the first place. So
even if one of your Firestones throws a tread I think you are at a lower level
of risk than if you were in your SUV
Until Firestone and Bridgestone "fess up", I would go back to where I bought
your Firestones and INSIST they exchange them for Dunlops, Michelins,
Continentals, etc. for Free. (Not Bridgestones either)
If Sears can pull ALL Firestone tires off their shelves, TBA being a big part
of the Sears business, that's good enough for me. I'm sure that Tire Rack or
any of the big chains like TiresPlus will take care of you.
If you have no other recourse and don't want to pop for the $200 for a new set
I'd look at my tires very carefully whenever I was going on any trip longer
than to an AHC meeting. Any sign of dry rot, or sidewall cracking or tread
separation and I'd do a switch ASAP .
Don't get mad at me - You Asked after all.
Fraternally,
DickB
---- you wrote:
> Dick,
> I have Firestones on my BJ 7. They are not the size and model numbers that
> have been in the news but they are Firestones. Should I be concerned?
> Thanks
> Larry Wysocki
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From Peter Brauen <pbrauen at telepak.net>
Date: Wed, 09 Aug 2000 17:51:09 -0500
Subject: Re: Overdrive switch
Hi Mike and the rest,
The biggest problem with any of the 'on knob' overdrive switches is what
to do with the wires. The works team didn't care about a bit of electrical
tape or whatever, but I suspect most of us would for daily use. The MGB
wires do pass down a groove in the shifter, but only for a couple of inches,
as the shift boot on that model extends up to the base of the knob. This
doesn't look right on a Healey. I did what I think is a trick mod on an MGA
we fitted with overdrive. I welded the correct thread bolt to the top of an
old shifter. Then cut a slot down the side of the shaft all the way to the
ball using a cut-off wheel on a die grinder. I believe the slot had to be in
a certain position as it also locates the knob in the correct alignment.
Next I put the wires in the groove. Here's the cool part: I took a piece of
thin wall stainless steel tubing that fit over the shaft and pressed it down
the taper until it was below the level of the boot. The top end was cut with
a simple tubing cutter and the stainless polished like chrome. With the
knob/switch and boot in place, there is no sign of the wires. The shaft is a
little thicker and straighter than before, but you have to be looking for
it. The same thing could easily be done to a center shift Healey, but the
crank in the side shift would prevent the tubing from passing that point.
Hope this helps someone. ---Peter (BMC Restorations)
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Salter <magicare@home.com>
To: njones@amadeus.net <njones@amadeus.net>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, August 09, 2000 1:40 PM
Subject: Re: Overdrive switch
njones@amadeus.net wrote:
> If I remember correctly this Triumph switch was fitted on top on the
gear lever
> shaft
> and had the wires running intergrally down the the inside of the
shaft...good
> design
>
> I've also thought that would be a better looking switch than the
replica rally
> switch that
> Cape International and Denis Welch sell.
>
> Capes switch incidentally has a rounded edge top to it which would
feel nicer in
> the hand than the Welch one which
> is flat with no curved edge..
Actually the wires o the MGB run down a slot cut on the front side of
the lever
threads (quite deep) then out into the shift boot which extends almost
up to the
knob.
Unfortunately the thread on the Healey lever is smaller than the MGB so
a fair bit
of cut and paste may be required.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 09 Aug 2000 19:35:16 -0400
Subject: Re: Overdrive switch
As I always say "Necessity is a Mother"
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Peter Brauen wrote:
> Hi Mike and the rest,
> The biggest problem with any of the 'on knob' overdrive switches is what
> to do with the wires. The works team didn't care about a bit of electrical
> tape or whatever, but I suspect most of us would for daily use. The MGB
> wires do pass down a groove in the shifter, but only for a couple of inches,
> as the shift boot on that model extends up to the base of the knob. This
> doesn't look right on a Healey. I did what I think is a trick mod on an MGA
> we fitted with overdrive. I welded the correct thread bolt to the top of an
> old shifter. Then cut a slot down the side of the shaft all the way to the
> ball using a cut-off wheel on a die grinder. I believe the slot had to be in
> a certain position as it also locates the knob in the correct alignment.
> Next I put the wires in the groove. Here's the cool part: I took a piece of
> thin wall stainless steel tubing that fit over the shaft and pressed it down
> the taper until it was below the level of the boot. The top end was cut with
> a simple tubing cutter and the stainless polished like chrome. With the
> knob/switch and boot in place, there is no sign of the wires. The shaft is a
> little thicker and straighter than before, but you have to be looking for
> it. The same thing could easily be done to a center shift Healey, but the
> crank in the side shift would prevent the tubing from passing that point.
> Hope this helps someone. ---Peter (BMC Restorations)
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Michael Salter <magicare@home.com>
> To: njones@amadeus.net <njones@amadeus.net>
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: Wednesday, August 09, 2000 1:40 PM
> Subject: Re: Overdrive switch
>
> njones@amadeus.net wrote:
>
> > If I remember correctly this Triumph switch was fitted on top on the
> gear lever
> > shaft
> > and had the wires running intergrally down the the inside of the
> shaft...good
> > design
> >
> > I've also thought that would be a better looking switch than the
> replica rally
> > switch that
> > Cape International and Denis Welch sell.
> >
> > Capes switch incidentally has a rounded edge top to it which would
> feel nicer in
> > the hand than the Welch one which
> > is flat with no curved edge..
>
> Actually the wires o the MGB run down a slot cut on the front side of
> the lever
> threads (quite deep) then out into the shift boot which extends almost
> up to the
> knob.
> Unfortunately the thread on the Healey lever is smaller than the MGB so
> a fair bit
> of cut and paste may be required.
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From Bill Pollock <wjpollock at erols.com>
Date: Wed, 09 Aug 2000 20:00:25 -0400
Subject: pete groh-key maker
Would anyone have Pete Grohs email address. Several messages have been
returned to me.
Bill Pollock
From J & L Armour <sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au>
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 10:48:31 +0000
Subject: Targa Florio 1965
Healey <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Bill, Martin, John and Magnus,
The correct name for the Video is "Mountain Legend Targa Florio 1965."
Originally it was a 16 mm film that I first saw at our monthly car club
meeting in the seventies and was available from the Castrol Film Library
in Australia at the time. The video copy has the following names
Quadrant Video and also IPC Video.
Video in Australia is on the PAL format. I am sure I have seen the video
advertised in English magazines but have no information regarding
distribution in USA, Sweden or Germany.
The cars entered in this event are well documented in Geoff Healey's
books. Another interesting connection is thatNew Zealand journalist Eion
Young, who was Bruce McLaren's personal secretary and manager, attempted
his English driver's licence test in the works 3000 in 1965 and failed
because the testing officer (police) crashed forward into the
windscreen during the emergency stop with the Healey's four wheel disc
brakes. This road test was written up in the Australian Sports Car World
Magazine in 1965.
Regards Joe
From "Reinhart Rosner" <reinhart.rosner at magnet.at>
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 03:37:40 +0200
Subject: Re: distributor
I found two distributors at a parts dealer. The Lucas numbers stamped in are
40561 L and 40857 F.
Is anyone on the list who knows for which cars these were and whether there
is a possibility to use them in my car as the dealer said it would be?
Reinhart Rosner
100/4 BN 1
From "Phil Nase" <pnase at enter.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 21:56:34 -0400
Subject: fan pulley removal
Does anyone have a tip on how to remove the fan pulley from the water pump
on a BN1. I have sprayed liquid wrench on the nut and tapped it a bit, but
it will not budge. I don't want to put the pulley itself in my vise for
fear of bending or marring it. Any suggestions are appreciated.
Should that nut be torqued to a specified value. How about the bolts
holding the fan to the pulley?
Also, has anyone found a readily available color of spray paint that is
close to the BN1 fan red? TIA.
Phil Nase
Quakertown, PA
55 BN1
From "Don Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 21:07:50 -0500
Subject: static timing
According to the Chilton Austin Healey 3000 manual, the procedure for static
timing is to connect a 12v lamp so that one wire is on the low tension
terminal of the coil and the other on ground.
(The rest of the procedure concerns #1 @ tdc, etc.)
There are four male spade connectors on the distributor. Which one is the
"low tension" terminal? I thought I had it right, but the light stays on
all the time.
Don
BN7
From "Mark Fawcett" <fawcett1 at mediaone.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 19:47:08 -0700
Subject: advance springs
Hi all,
I'm in need of mechanical advance springs for my DM6A distributor.
There are two different weight springs on the distributor now and I
don't know which one is correct. Does anyone have a resource or can I
get springs from the local NAPA. Thanks in advance.
Mark Fawcett
'60 BT7
From Herman Farrer <herman at hfphoto.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 23:03:22 -0400
Subject: Re: pete groh-key maker
>Would anyone have Pete Grohs email address. Several messages have been
>returned to me.
>
>Bill Pollock
Pete Groh <pete_groh@yahoo.com>
Herman
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 09 Aug 2000 23:01:32 -0400
Subject: Re: static timing
Don Yarber wrote:
> According to the Chilton Austin Healey 3000 manual, the procedure for static
> timing is to connect a 12v lamp so that one wire is on the low tension
> terminal of the coil and the other on ground.
>
> (The rest of the procedure concerns #1 @ tdc, etc.)
>
> There are four male spade connectors on the distributor. Which one is the
> "low tension" terminal? I thought I had it right, but the light stays on
> all the time.
>
> Don
> BN7
Hi Don,
There are 4 male spade connectors on the coil.
There are probably only 2 actual terminals which are in pairs. One has a white
with black wire that goes to the distributor. If you connect a test light
between this terminal and gound, with the ignition on, the light will come on
when the points are open and go off when they close. Assuming that your points
are installed correctly.
If you have picked the wrong terminal the light will stay on points open or
closed. If the points are not installed correctly the light may stay on all the
time, or never come on even if you are on the correct terminal.
With the ignition still on pull the wire off one of the terminals. If there is
power on the wire that is not the terminal that you need.
When you have found the correct terminal, with the car in 4 th gear bump the car
forward until the light comes on (points open) and check that the pointer on the
front pulley is about 5/8" before the TDC mark. You may have to do it a couple
of times to get #1 or #6 cyl.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 23:45:35 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: IMPORTANT re Firestone Recall
I assure you I didn't mean to. Ford is in this up to their eyeballs. They
helped design these tires, they have been replacing them since 1992, quietly
and for the past few years all around the world.
This is going to be HUGE - now I hear that Phase One of the recall (a few
southern states, but NOT Louisiana, Alabama, Missisippi, New Mexico, Georgia
and more , all of whom have been ON FIRE all summer) will be completed by
Christmas and Phase two not until next September (2001). Up here in Minnesota,
which has the highest percentage of SUVs in the country, they'll get around to
it in 2002.
In addition, they are going to replace them With The Same Model tire. What
kind of jerk would allow them to replace a defective tire with an identical
tire. Why would anyone think the current ones are any better than the original
ones? The ones that tread-separated in Florida were only a couple of weeks old.
This has the beginnings of a colassal fuck-up. Firestone has Guilty Knowledge
and so does Ford. There may even be some Criminal Cases coming out of this and
I'll bet Bridgestone/Firestone survives as a very minor player herafter, if at
all.. They certainly won't be OEM suppliers for anyone who has a particle of
sense.
How's you hand? How's your Heart and BP?
Love to all
Dick
---- you wrote:
> Don't forget the involvement of FORD. They recommended reducing the
> tire pressure, so more tread would hug the road, which in turn lowered
> the center of gravity, which made the tires run hotter.
>
> Stan
>
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From "Andy King" <healey-100 at hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 20:32:48 -1000
Subject: Fw: advance springs
----- Original Message -----
From: "Andy King" <healey-100@hawaii.rr.com>
To: "Mark Fawcett" <fawcett1@mediaone.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2000 6:34 PM
Subject: Re: advance springs
> No the advance curve is not linear the springs are supposed to be
different.
> There are a lot of D/C auto electric shops that have the sunnen machine
and
> will spin your distributor up to different set point speeds and compare
the
> advance curve to published specs. I just noticed that a lister had posted
> the specs a few days ago on this list. I forgot there name maybe the
> precision sports car guy he know his stuff. If anyone is interested I
have
> somewhere a letter from the BMC competition department sent to the
original
> owner of my 100-M Warren Kergnahan (not sure on the spelling of the last
> name, but I have it somewhere.) It had the specs for the advance curve
they
> were using at the time for racing. I never found out if it was a factory
or
> a kit M but the bonnet was not louvered when it got to me in 1974 But
you
> should have seen the front shocks with opposed cylinders with large
pistons
> in them too. shame, like a fool of sixteen, I bought new shocks and
tossed
> out the old ones.
> Good luck with your project.
> Andy King
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mark Fawcett" <fawcett1@mediaone.net>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2000 4:47 PM
> Subject: advance springs
>
>
> >
> > Hi all,
> > I'm in need of mechanical advance springs for my DM6A distributor.
> > There are two different weight springs on the distributor now and I
> > don't know which one is correct. Does anyone have a resource or can I
> > get springs from the local NAPA. Thanks in advance.
> >
> > Mark Fawcett
> > '60 BT7
> >
>
From njones at amadeus.net
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 08:53:02 +0200
Subject: Classic and Sportscars September issue.
From: Nick Jones@AMAWORLD on 10/08/2000 08:53 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
cc:
Subject: Classic and Sportscars September issue.
What might be of interest is this months issue of C&SC which carries an
interesting article on
Kjell Qvale.It concludes with the Jensen Healey saga.
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 06:33:50 -0500
Subject: mountain legend-65 targa floria vhs tapethe
the north texas club's tape, purchased about 10 years ago has on the case label
-- videosports 2501 park blvd. palo alto, ca 94306.
this tape, along with the bonneville speed runs, have been the favorites we
play for the crowds every year at the dallas autorama.
the bonneville speed runs tape is currently available through the austin healey
club, usa for $19 postpaid.
From "Charles Sither" <crsither at hotmail.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 11:46:14 GMT
Subject: Firestone Perspective
How many remember a similar Firestone recall in the early 80's? After
Firestone learned (or was taught) a lesson then, the tires they replaced for
free were the best on the market. I assume they overbuilt them to
compensate...
Charley Sither
Lexington, KY
________________________________________________________________________
From Healybj8 at aol.com
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 08:22:03 EDT
Subject: Re: Firestone Perspective
In a message dated Thu, 10 Aug 2000 8:00:02 AM Eastern Daylight Time, "Charles
Sither" <crsither@hotmail.com> writes:
<<
How many remember a similar Firestone recall in the early 80's? >>
I do recall the firestone story from the first one which caused them to be
bought by the Japanese. They were having trouble with the tire tread
seperating from the body, and discovered the cause of this. It seems that
trash was becoming trapped in the tire during the manufacture. Trash...like
candy wrappers. Their solution? Install x-ray machines to look inside each
tire to see if trash got trapped inside before it shipped. Needless to say, it
was expensive to install.
Well when the Japanese took over they asked why there were so many of these big
x-ray machines in the plants. The firestone guys of course explained their
findings to their new managers. The japanese were understandably incredulous
over such an expendature, and then decided that no food would be allowed on the
floor from that point on. six months later the x-ray machines were demolished
and they never had that problem again.
Perhaps they have relaxed the candy bar rule at Firestone again.
Tim Wallace
'67 BJ8
Fuquay-Varina, NC
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 09:32:03 -0400
Subject: Re: distributor
Reinhart Rosner wrote:
> I found two distributors at a parts dealer. The Lucas numbers stamped in are
> 40561 L and 40857 F.
>
> Is anyone on the list who knows for which cars these were and whether there
> is a possibility to use them in my car as the dealer said it would be?
>
> Reinhart Rosner
> 100/4 BN 1
Hi Reinhart,
40561 is for a Sprite MkI , Austin A30, Austin A40
40857 is for a Cortina MkI
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 09:45:45 -0400
Subject: Brakes
Does anybody know of any brake shoes that would be interchangeable with our
Healey brakes shoes? Just wondering...
While we are on the subject... How about other parts? I had a '86 XJ6, and
after replacing an ignition module for about $400.00
I learned that one from a Chevy would fit for less than half the cost...
I'm not building anything concourse, I was just wondering
if anybody found any parts from other cars that are interchangeable....
Thanks,
Steve Kocik
'61
BN7
From WhoCares56 at aol.com
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 09:55:45 EDT
Subject: Re: Brakes
In a message dated 8/10/2000 6:48:07 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
Stephen.Kocik@unisys.com writes:
<<
Does anybody know of any brake shoes that would be interchangeable with our
Healey brakes shoes? Just wondering...
While we are on the subject... How about other parts? I had a '86 XJ6, and
after replacing an ignition module for about $400.00
I learned that one from a Chevy would fit for less than half the cost...
I'm not building anything concourse, I was just wondering
if anybody found any parts from other cars that are interchangeable....
>>
The clutch slave cylinder from a '62 Alfa Romeo fits a BT7.
Carroll
BT7
BN1
From M Brouillette <mbrouill at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 10:00:13 -0400
Subject: Ball park date around build of a BN7?
Ok folks, not looking for an exact date, just a ballpark on a BN7 I'm
considering. Does anyone have a serial number close that can tell me
approx when their car was built?
HBN7L4664
Thanks in advance,
Mike B
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 10:20:58 -0400
Subject: Re: Brakes
"Kocik, Stephen W" wrote:
> Does anybody know of any brake shoes that would be interchangeable with our
> Healey brakes shoes? Just wondering...
> While we are on the subject... How about other parts? I had a '86 XJ6, and
> after replacing an ignition module for about $400.00
> I learned that one from a Chevy would fit for less than half the cost...
> I'm not building anything concourse, I was just wondering
> if anybody found any parts from other cars that are interchangeable....
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Steve Kocik
> '61
> BN7
I once found a set of rear shoes in a brake relining shop that looked like
Healey rears.
I was told that they were off aYale Lift Truck. Called the local dealer and we
sort of figured out which ones they were. Price $244/ set.
Went back to relining our own shoes.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 07:33:41 -0700
Subject: RE: static timing
Make sure your battery switch is on.
Ken Freese
-----Original Message-----
From: Don Yarber [mailto:dyarber@dynasty.net]
Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2000 7:08 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: static timing
According to the Chilton Austin Healey 3000 manual, the procedure for static
timing is to connect a 12v lamp so that one wire is on the low tension
terminal of the coil and the other on ground.
(The rest of the procedure concerns #1 @ tdc, etc.)
There are four male spade connectors on the distributor. Which one is the
"low tension" terminal? I thought I had it right, but the light stays on
all the time.
Don
BN7
From "John Rowe" <jarowe at connect.comdek.net.au>
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 23:06:36 +0800
Subject: Re; Distributor
Mike
In your great pool of knowledge on all things healey do you have check
points for the distributor of a BJ8 engine and a BT7 engine as I will need
to recalibrate my distributor.
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
BT7 just about ready to fire up for the first time in 39 years.
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael Salter <magicare@home.com>
To: Bruce Starke <bstarke@redshift.bc.ca>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2000 9:08 PM
Subject: Re: distributor
>
> Bruce Starke wrote:
>
> > Hi there listers---I need some advice please:
> > I have a distributor DM6 40532 which came with the rest of the pieces of
my
> > tricarb. According to the books, I need DM6 40662 (same as I have in my
> > early BJ7). Is there any reason why I should not use this distributor?
or
> > should I try and swop it for the later one. Are the advance curves very
> > different---what are the differences in practical terms and can a
Pertronix
> > contactless ignition correct this.
> > Thanks for any help.
> > BRUCE STARKE
> > GOLDEN BC
> > 63 BJ7
> > 62 Tricarb (aiming to be on the road next year)
>
> The check points on the 40532 distributor are
> 1500 : 11-13 ; 500 : 7-9; 300 : 1.5-4.5 No advance below 150.
>
> For the 40662
> 2000 : 14-16 ; 1150 : 12-14 ; 500 : 3-6 No advance below 300
>
> These curves are probably similar enough that you would not notice any
> difference however for the best performance (using the correct fuel) the
> correct distributor would be better.
> A Pertronix unit will work in this distributor and if installed correctly
> should not change the advance curves.
>
>
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>
>
>
From "Michael Lupynec" <mlupynec at globalserve.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 11:16:40 -0400
Subject: Re: IMPORTANT re Firestone Recall
Hey Dick, you're not by any chance trying to drum up a class
action lawsuit?
Mike L.
60A,67E,59Bug
----- Original Message -----
From: <dickb@cheerful.com>
To: Stan Worchel <stanw@cmpsource.com>
Cc: austin healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>; Melissa's Board
people <libmods@egroups.com>; Charles A. Laff <CLaff999@aol.com>
Sent: August 9, 2000 11:45 PM
Subject: Re: IMPORTANT re Firestone Recall
>
> I assure you I didn't mean to. Ford is in this up to their
eyeballs. They helped design these tires, they have been
replacing them since 1992, quietly and for the past few years all
around the world.
>
> This is going to be HUGE - now I hear that Phase One of the
recall (a few southern states, but NOT Louisiana, Alabama,
Missisippi, New Mexico, Georgia and more , all of whom have been
ON FIRE all summer) will be completed by Christmas and Phase two
not until next September (2001). Up here in Minnesota, which has
the highest percentage of SUVs in the country, they'll get around
to it in 2002.
>
> In addition, they are going to replace them With The Same Model
tire. What kind of jerk would allow them to replace a defective
tire with an identical tire. Why would anyone think the current
ones are any better than the original ones? The ones that
tread-separated in Florida were only a couple of weeks old.
>
> This has the beginnings of a colassal fuck-up. Firestone has
Guilty Knowledge and so does Ford. There may even be some
Criminal Cases coming out of this and I'll bet
Bridgestone/Firestone survives as a very minor player herafter, if
at all.. They certainly won't be OEM suppliers for anyone who has
a particle of sense.
>
> How's you hand? How's your Heart and BP?
>
> Love to all
>
> Dick
>
>
>
>
> ---- you wrote:
> > Don't forget the involvement of FORD. They recommended
reducing the
> > tire pressure, so more tread would hug the road, which in turn
lowered
> > the center of gravity, which made the tires run hotter.
> >
> > Stan
> >
> >
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
>
From John Harper <john at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 14:59:31 +0100
Subject: Re: distributor
Reinhart
>
>I found two distributors at a parts dealer. The Lucas numbers stamped in are
>40561 L and 40857 F.
>
I have found the following information but be careful there are
sometimes errors on the "replaced by" numbers. All are defined as
Clockwise rotation.
40561
is a DM2, equivalent to a BMC 2A 721 which fits High Compression A35,
Morris Minor 1000 and models derived from these. Introduced around the
end of 1955.
Superceded by Lucas 41122 type 25D4 which is listed as also fitting
1968-70 Hillman Husky.
40857
No information but believed to be introduced after May 1962
Superceded by Lucas 40984 type 25D4 listed as fitted to 1964-66 Ford
Cortina etc.
I have some part breakdown listings if you should need them. Perhaps
comparing 40561 with a standard 100 type might be of interest.
All the best.
>Is anyone on the list who knows for which cars these were and whether there
>is a possibility to use them in my car as the dealer said it would be?
>
>Reinhart Rosner
>100/4 BN 1
>
>
>
--
John Harper
From "John Sims" <J_L_Sims at email.msn.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 08:55:38 -0700
Subject: Towing
I need the collective wisdom of the list.
I am going to be towing my BN6 using a car dolly. Do I hve to disconnect the
drive shaft or can I just put the transmission in neutral for the tow??
Thanks in avance.
John Sims, BN6
Las Vegas
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 12:47:00 EDT
Subject: Re: Ball park date around build of a BN7?
In a message dated 8/10/00 7:20:37 AM, mbrouill@ix.netcom.com writes:
<< Ok folks, not looking for an exact date, just a ballpark on a BN7 I'm
considering. Does anyone have a serial number close that can tell me
approx when their car was built?
HBN7L4664
>>
the Healey Book can help a little there, by looking at dates of change
points. In July of 1959, the thermo choke was introduced and North American
cars started being shipped with sealed beam head lamps. These changes
occurred at BT7/2194 and BN7/2276.
In Nov 59, on engine E6369, (car number BN7/3235), they changed back to the
manual choke.
In December 59, at BN7/6487, they changed to a radiator with 12 gills per
inch.
So, your car was built in November or December of 1959.
And should have a manual choke but not the upgraded radiator.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej at mossmotors.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 09:49:29 -0700
Subject: RE: Towing
There are a number of opinions on this one. I doubt that you would have a
problem towing in neutral, however, since you can easily get to the drive
shaft from the battery compartment on the 2 seaters I would disconnect it if
you are towing any significant distance. It's only 4 bolts. I would
suggest securing the shaft with a bit of line or something just to keep it
from bouncing.
Jonathan Lane
'60 BN7
-----Original Message-----
From: John Sims [mailto:J_L_Sims@email.msn.com]
Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2000 8:56 AM
To: Healey List
Subject: Towing
I need the collective wisdom of the list.
I am going to be towing my BN6 using a car dolly. Do I hve to disconnect the
drive shaft or can I just put the transmission in neutral for the tow??
Thanks in avance.
John Sims, BN6
Las Vegas
From Martin Johnson <MJohnson at cfworks.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 09:45:48 -0700
Subject: RE: Towing
Hi John
It's a bit of a pain, but you are better off disconnecting it if you are
travelling any distance. At least with your BN6 you have access through the
battery door under the spare. Triple check that the loose end of the prop
shaft is secure so you don't wind up dragging it after hitting a bump. Good
luck and be safe...
Martin Johnson
BN7
-----Original Message-----
From: John Sims [mailto:J_L_Sims@email.msn.com]
Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2000 8:56 AM
To: Healey List
Subject: Towing
I need the collective wisdom of the list.
I am going to be towing my BN6 using a car dolly. Do I hve to disconnect the
drive shaft or can I just put the transmission in neutral for the tow??
Thanks in avance.
John Sims, BN6
Las Vegas
From LarryRPH at aol.com
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 13:21:03 EDT
Subject: Fwd: Towing
--part1_f.7d759aa.26c43e7f_boundary
--part1_f.7d759aa.26c43e7f_boundary
Content-Disposition: inline
Return-path: <LarryRPH@aol.com>
From: LarryRPH@aol.com
Full-name: LarryRPH
Message-ID: <c5.836b729.26c43e03@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 13:18:59 EDT
Subject: Re: Towing
To: J_L_Sims@email.msn.com
MIME-Version: 1.0
X-Mailer: AOL 5.0 for Windows sub 118
I am not an expert but I raised this question recently to our local Healey
guru and his answer was "definitely" disconnect the drive shaft- something
about creating pressure and blowing out seals if you don't.
As a matter of interest, I asked about the feasability of using the dolly
and more than one person warned about protecting your front from stones and
take steps to prevent the rear from dragging on bumps.
Larry Wysocki
--part1_f.7d759aa.26c43e7f_boundary--
From Bob Haskell <bhaskell at iquest.net>
Date: Wed, 09 Aug 2000 20:28:23 -0500
Subject: Re: pete groh-key maker
Bill Pollock wrote:
>
> Would anyone have Pete Grohs email address. Several messages have been
> returned to me.
>
> Bill Pollock
No e-mail, but can give you a phone number and snail mail address:
Pete Groh
9957 Frederick Rd.
Elicott City, MD 21042
410 750-2352 (evenings / weekends)
--
Bob Haskell
'60 AH BT-7 MkI
'64 Mini Cooper S RHD
'80 MGB LE
bhaskell@iquest.net
SOL Healey (URL http://www.team.net/www/healey) web apprentice
From costan0 at attglobal.net
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 10:40:51 -0700
Subject: towing
The Nock's tech book has a suggestion if you tow with the driveshaft still
on. Add more oil to raise the level on the dipstick by 3/8 inch. This
surrounds more of those delicate parts that are not getting splashed with
oil because the transmission is not engaged.
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 13:40:13 EDT
Subject: Putzke's Fahrspass (details)
I guess some did not get the URL or other info on the Bilstein kit for Big
Healeys, so I'll put it here.
http://home.att.net/~putzkes_fahrspass/index.html
At this website you can get the ordering info and even a cool demo of why a
gas pressurized shock is best.
The following is lifted right from the site:
BILSTEIN has led the industry for over a quarter century, producing the finest
quality mono-tube gas pressure shock absorbers.
The BILSTEIN Austin Healey shock is custom designed for Austin Healey weight,
balance, and loads. These are NOT shocks made for another car just bolted
onto a Healey. These are made specifically for Austin Healey’s, and only
available from this source.
Here's what you get:
BILSTEIN Shock absorber Kit for:
Austin Healey 100-4, 100-6, 3000 through MKII
Austin Healey 3000 BJ7 (26705) to BJ8 phase 2
>From my experience with the product so far:
While the product is designed to fit all cars 2 or 4 seats (unlike all
previous tube shock conversions) my BN6 does not have the proper square body
fuel pump and bracket, so I had some clearance issues there. My car also has
the wrong captive nuts in the shock towers so I need to find some bolts to
fit before I can install the Bilsteins to the front of my car. (impatiently
waiting to have the time to find the fasteners...)
With only the back done the difference (as posted previously) is phenomenal.
I driving a bit timid with only one muffler bracket 'til yesterday. I
replaced the rest of the brackets and went out last night chasing pot holes
and bad roads. I'm still driving on 165/SR tires, so I get more drift than
I'm used to but the rear end stays on the ground and pushes the car through
bumpy turns better than ever.
Oh, also, Udo Putzke isn't getting rich off this stuff. He works for Bilstein
and is a very active member of the Austin Healey Club of San Diego. I went
directly to his house to buy the kit. He's quite a car guy, and very
passionate about the engineering involved with these shocks for our cars. He
made sure to show me a see-through shock demo thing that he moves before and
after pumping it up with pressure so I see the fluid not cavitating.
About the price: Though it may seem high at first, compared with other shock
kits of this quality it is in line at $799 for most cars. (add 50 bucks for
BJ8 Phase II)
And remember, the kit is bolt-on and a totally reversible mod.
I'm not getting paid for this, and I didn't get a discount (nor do I think it
fair to expect, or ask, for one from someone working for our team)
Rick
San Diego
From "Scheuble, Fred J. ,HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 13:46:34 -0400
Subject: RE: Towing
If it were me I would only use a flat bed
-----Original Message-----
From: Martin Johnson [mailto:MJohnson@cfworks.com]
Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2000 12:46 PM
To: 'John Sims'; Healey List
Subject: RE: Towing
Hi John
It's a bit of a pain, but you are better off disconnecting it if you are
travelling any distance. At least with your BN6 you have access through the
battery door under the spare. Triple check that the loose end of the prop
shaft is secure so you don't wind up dragging it after hitting a bump. Good
luck and be safe...
Martin Johnson
BN7
-----Original Message-----
From: John Sims [mailto:J_L_Sims@email.msn.com]
Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2000 8:56 AM
To: Healey List
Subject: Towing
I need the collective wisdom of the list.
I am going to be towing my BN6 using a car dolly. Do I hve to disconnect the
drive shaft or can I just put the transmission in neutral for the tow??
Thanks in avance.
John Sims, BN6
Las Vegas
From Martin Johnson <MJohnson at cfworks.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 10:52:49 -0700
Subject: RE: IMPORTANT re Firestone Recall
Hi Dick
Mostly, I do bankruptcy and real estate law, so I can't really remember from
law school about products liability, but doesn't Ford have to bear more of
the burden than what they are owning up to? I think I recall that if you
sell a final product which is made up of yours and other manufacturers
parts, you can't avoid a products liabilty claim if one or more of the items
that make up the final product are faulty, even if it is someone else's part
you put on your final product marketed to the public. In this case, a car
is not generally considered a complete product without tires because you
can't use it without them. Therefore, on cars sold with the defective tires
installed by Ford, shouldn't it be Ford that is primarily liable to the
consumer, then Ford would recover expenses from Firestone, et al? Sure, I
know a big corporation like Ford would put the responsibility off on someone
else, perhaps to satisfy their stockholders and not take the big financial
hit, but putting my idealist hat on for a moment, wouldn't a responsible
seller of goods that wants my business now and in the future want to recall
these goods immediately if they are unsafe, and replace them with
non-defective goods? I'll probably die a poor man, but I think if I was the
guy that called the shots at Ford, I would take responsibility for the
problem, and suck it up, settle all the wrongful death and P.I. suits, and
replace all the "bad" tires with free ones right now, get public sentiment
on my side, advertise that that is how this company takes care of problems
(Pinto was the fault of the last generation of managers) then go get
Firestone, own their stock 'cuz they can't pay enough money to make me
whole, fix their quality and then sell them to some foreign outfit for a net
profit.
Maybe I should go back in my cave now and work on my Healey.
Martin Johnson
-----Original Message-----
From: dickb@cheerful.com [mailto:dickb@cheerful.com]
Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2000 8:46 PM
To: Stan Worchel
Cc: austin healey list; Melissa's Board people; Charles A. Laff
Subject: Re: IMPORTANT re Firestone Recall
I assure you I didn't mean to. Ford is in this up to their eyeballs. They
helped design these tires, they have been replacing them since 1992, quietly
and for the past few years all around the world.
This is going to be HUGE - now I hear that Phase One of the recall (a few
southern states, but NOT Louisiana, Alabama, Missisippi, New Mexico, Georgia
and more , all of whom have been ON FIRE all summer) will be completed by
Christmas and Phase two not until next September (2001). Up here in
Minnesota, which has the highest percentage of SUVs in the country, they'll
get around to it in 2002.
In addition, they are going to replace them With The Same Model tire. What
kind of jerk would allow them to replace a defective tire with an identical
tire. Why would anyone think the current ones are any better than the
original ones? The ones that tread-separated in Florida were only a couple
of weeks old.
This has the beginnings of a colassal fuck-up. Firestone has Guilty
Knowledge and so does Ford. There may even be some Criminal Cases coming
out of this and I'll bet Bridgestone/Firestone survives as a very minor
player herafter, if at all.. They certainly won't be OEM suppliers for
anyone who has a particle of sense.
How's you hand? How's your Heart and BP?
Love to all
Dick
---- you wrote:
> Don't forget the involvement of FORD. They recommended reducing the
> tire pressure, so more tread would hug the road, which in turn lowered
> the center of gravity, which made the tires run hotter.
>
> Stan
>
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej at mossmotors.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 10:57:18 -0700
Subject: RE: Ball park date around build of a BN7?
Hmmm. Been checking E-Bay have you?...
Going by nmbers I have found in some books, I would estimate mid '59. July
'59 was 2276 and December was 6320. You fall in the middle there.
Good luck, the car looks nice. One thing, the spare tire cover is wrong.
It should poke through into the rear of the cockpit over the battery cover.
-----Original Message-----
From: Editorgary@aol.com [mailto:Editorgary@aol.com]
Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2000 9:47 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Ball park date around build of a BN7?
In a message dated 8/10/00 7:20:37 AM, mbrouill@ix.netcom.com writes:
<< Ok folks, not looking for an exact date, just a ballpark on a BN7 I'm
considering. Does anyone have a serial number close that can tell me
approx when their car was built?
HBN7L4664
>>
the Healey Book can help a little there, by looking at dates of change
points. In July of 1959, the thermo choke was introduced and North American
cars started being shipped with sealed beam head lamps. These changes
occurred at BT7/2194 and BN7/2276.
In Nov 59, on engine E6369, (car number BN7/3235), they changed back to the
manual choke.
In December 59, at BN7/6487, they changed to a radiator with 12 gills per
inch.
So, your car was built in November or December of 1959.
And should have a manual choke but not the upgraded radiator.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From JMcD206 at aol.com
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 14:03:43 EDT
Subject: Code for red paint 59-60
Listers,
I got this request on our web site and I thought that someone on the list would
have the answer. I don't think he is on the list, so his e-mail address is:
healeybt73000@aol.com
Or I can forward the information to him.
Thanks
Jim McDermott
57 BN4
http://cascadeahc.homestead.com/home.html
<<Greetings from Alabama.
Do you know of anyone who can supply me with the correct red paint code
number of color for a 59 or 60 bt7 3000 Healey? Someone told me it was
Colorado red, but it appears to have too much orange in it. Any help would
be deeply appreciated.
Rdgs,
Alan
Mobile Healey Club>>
From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 11:54:31 -0700
Subject: Re: Towing
Ditto that........ Randy
>
> If it were me I would only use a flat bed
From ccruz at tribune.com
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 14:16:00 -0500
Subject: Wiring harness/tires
Barry,
The wiring harness comes in seven sections and can be purchased
separately. The dash wiring is the largest section of the seven and
is part of the main harness that runs through the engine compartment.
It is the most time consuming sections to install but pretty straight
forward. Hope that helps.
Carlos Cruz
'60 AH3KBN7
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Tue, 08 Aug 2000 21:44:34 -0400
From: Barry Pate <jbpate@attglobal.net>
Subject: Wiring harness/tires
Is it possible to buy portions of the wiring harness or does it come
as
one. The dash wiring is really dirty and needs replacing. The run to
the
trunk is in good shape. Also would like to know if anyone has tried
Yokohama 185x70x15 on mini-lites. I think this size will fit in the
wheel wells and is about the same height as the originals.Barry Pate
- --
GIF89aHH
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 14:27:18 -0500
Subject: Re: Code for red paint 59-60
colorado red - rd2 -- is an orangey red.
jerry wall
----- Original Message -----
From: JMcD206@aol.com
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Code for red paint 59-60
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 14:03:43 EDT
Listers,
I got this request on our web site and I thought that someone on the list would
have the answer. I don't think he is on the list, so his e-mail address is:
healeybt73000@aol.com
Or I can forward the information to him.
Thanks
Jim McDermott
57 BN4
http://cascadeahc.homestead.com/home.html
<<Greetings from Alabama.
Do you know of anyone who can supply me with the correct red paint code
number of color for a 59 or 60 bt7 3000 Healey? Someone told me it was
Colorado red, but it appears to have too much orange in it. Any help would
be deeply appreciated.
Rdgs,
Alan
Mobile Healey Club>>
From M Brouillette <mbrouill at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 17:28:42 -0400
Subject: Re: IMPORTANT re Firestone Recall
Here's the Massachusetts end of how they're handling things locally...
http://www.globe.com/news/daily/reporters/10/firestone_recall.htm
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 17:52:15 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Firestone Perspective
Tim
I assume this is a joke of the "cat in the microwave" variety.
Candy wrappers - Xray machines??
I don't think so.
---- you wrote:
>
> In a message dated Thu, 10 Aug 2000 8:00:02 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
>"Charles Sither" <crsither@hotmail.com> writes:
>
> <<
> How many remember a similar Firestone recall in the early 80's? >>
>
> I do recall the firestone story from the first one which caused them to be
>bought by the Japanese. They were having trouble with the tire tread
>seperating from the body, and discovered the cause of this. It seems that
>trash was becoming trapped in the tire during the manufacture. Trash...like
>candy wrappers. Their solution? Install x-ray machines to look inside each
>tire to see if trash got trapped inside before it shipped. Needless to say,
>it was expensive to install.
>
> Well when the Japanese took over they asked why there were so many of these
>big x-ray machines in the plants. The firestone guys of course explained
>their findings to their new managers. The japanese were understandably
>incredulous over such an expendature, and then decided that no food would be
>allowed on the floor from that point on. six months later the x-ray machines
>were demolished and they never had that problem again.
>
> Perhaps they have relaxed the candy bar rule at Firestone again.
>
> Tim Wallace
> '67 BJ8
> Fuquay-Varina, NC
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 18:13:14 EDT
Subject: Re: IMPORTANT re Firestone Recall
In a message dated 8/10/00 2:49:24 PM, mbrouill@ix.netcom.com writes:
<< Here's the Massachusetts end of how they're handling things locally... >>
Since everyone's so interested in this topic: We own a 99 Fraud Exploder
(everything in our garage has a name, reflecting our intellectual and
emotional commitment to it) with, what do you think, Firestone Wilderness AT
tires. So on the advice of our lease holder, who is getting ready to forward
letters from Firestone, we called our Ford Dealer. Not to worry, he said --
the recall only affects 15 inch tires, and ours are 16 inch. No 16 inch
tires have ever failed.
So, no new tires. Darn.
Cheers
gary
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 18:26:17 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: RE: IMPORTANT re Firestone Recall
Martin
Actually my "erpertise" is in Securities law and Corporate but the case you and
I read in Law School is McPherson v Buick and it held Buick liable for bad
wooden spoke wheels, which it didn't make, at least as I recall it from 1956.
Obviously Ford and Firestone together should tell All owners of these tires, of
whatever size, to go get Another Brand and send the bill to Ford and Firestone.
As you see the "recall" that has been announced is scheduled to be "completed"
in two or three YEARS.
I think this will bring down Firestone, maybe Bridgestone itself and will
severely damage Ford's Explorer,Mountaineer and Excursion sales.
Dick
---- you wrote:
> Hi Dick
>
> Mostly, I do bankruptcy and real estate law, so I can't really remember from
> law school about products liability, but doesn't Ford have to bear more of
> the burden than what they are owning up to? I think I recall that if you
> sell a final product which is made up of yours and other manufacturers
> parts, you can't avoid a products liabilty claim if one or more of the items
> that make up the final product are faulty, even if it is someone else's part
> you put on your final product marketed to the public. In this case, a car
> is not generally considered a complete product without tires because you
> can't use it without them. Therefore, on cars sold with the defective tires
> installed by Ford, shouldn't it be Ford that is primarily liable to the
> consumer, then Ford would recover expenses from Firestone, et al? Sure, I
> know a big corporation like Ford would put the responsibility off on someone
> else, perhaps to satisfy their stockholders and not take the big financial
> hit, but putting my idealist hat on for a moment, wouldn't a responsible
> seller of goods that wants my business now and in the future want to recall
> these goods immediately if they are unsafe, and replace them with
> non-defective goods? I'll probably die a poor man, but I think if I was the
> guy that called the shots at Ford, I would take responsibility for the
> problem, and suck it up, settle all the wrongful death and P.I. suits, and
> replace all the "bad" tires with free ones right now, get public sentiment
> on my side, advertise that that is how this company takes care of problems
> (Pinto was the fault of the last generation of managers) then go get
> Firestone, own their stock 'cuz they can't pay enough money to make me
> whole, fix their quality and then sell them to some foreign outfit for a net
> profit.
> Maybe I should go back in my cave now and work on my Healey.
> Martin Johnson
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: dickb@cheerful.com [mailto:dickb@cheerful.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2000 8:46 PM
> To: Stan Worchel
> Cc: austin healey list; Melissa's Board people; Charles A. Laff
> Subject: Re: IMPORTANT re Firestone Recall
>
>
>
> I assure you I didn't mean to. Ford is in this up to their eyeballs. They
> helped design these tires, they have been replacing them since 1992, quietly
> and for the past few years all around the world.
>
> This is going to be HUGE - now I hear that Phase One of the recall (a few
> southern states, but NOT Louisiana, Alabama, Missisippi, New Mexico, Georgia
> and more , all of whom have been ON FIRE all summer) will be completed by
> Christmas and Phase two not until next September (2001). Up here in
> Minnesota, which has the highest percentage of SUVs in the country, they'll
> get around to it in 2002.
>
> In addition, they are going to replace them With The Same Model tire. What
> kind of jerk would allow them to replace a defective tire with an identical
> tire. Why would anyone think the current ones are any better than the
> original ones? The ones that tread-separated in Florida were only a couple
> of weeks old.
>
> This has the beginnings of a colassal fuck-up. Firestone has Guilty
> Knowledge and so does Ford. There may even be some Criminal Cases coming
> out of this and I'll bet Bridgestone/Firestone survives as a very minor
> player herafter, if at all.. They certainly won't be OEM suppliers for
> anyone who has a particle of sense.
>
> How's you hand? How's your Heart and BP?
>
> Love to all
>
> Dick
>
>
>
>
> ---- you wrote:
> > Don't forget the involvement of FORD. They recommended reducing the
> > tire pressure, so more tread would hug the road, which in turn lowered
> > the center of gravity, which made the tires run hotter.
> >
> > Stan
> >
> >
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 18:45:25 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: IMPORTANT re Firestone Recall
Hmm, IF True and not merely anecdotal, I wonder if the replacement tires are of
different manufacture than the suspect/bad ones, and I really wonder if the
average Firestone Tire store keeps 200-300 ATXs etc ON HAND .
Firestone has been very clear that they will NOT divert stocks to Massachusetts
until AFTER September 2001.
I stand on what I wrote before, which is "I wouldn't drive another mile on
Firestone Brand tires of any size or tread design"
DickB
---- you wrote:
>
> Here's the Massachusetts end of how they're handling things locally...
>
> http://www.globe.com/news/daily/reporters/10/firestone_recall.htm
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 19:14:08 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: IMPORTANT re Firestone Recall
Gary
I feel so strongly about this I'm willing to take on the Flamers, wherever they
may reside.
15", 16", 17", what's the difference. Firestone says they have NO IDEA what the
problem is - at least that's what they say TODAY, yet they have been settling
lawsuits for many years and Ford has been doing free replacements since 1992
(when the Explorer was introduced) in a whole list of countries.
Do you really think that the Firestone methodology is different depending on
SIZE or Tread Design?
That makes about as much sense as someone asking this List - "I heard that the
Healeys that were originally BRG were prone to Front Suspension problems"
IF YOU WERE MY FLESH AND BLOOD I WOULD SIT IN YOUR DRIVEWAY UNTIL YOU REMOVED
YOUR FIRESTONE TIRES.
And since I consider all of the people on this List to be family, I would say
the same.
What makes the Rubber "stick" to the carcass is moist heat - that is what the
vulcanizing process is all about. The treads you see along the Interstate are
from bad recaps on 18 wheelers for the most part. The recappers don't properly
control the temperatures and moisture levels when applying the new treads.
Bandar (sp) guarantees their recaps against tread separation, others don't.
That's why Bandars are so expensive compared to standard Recaps. Talk to a
trucker at a TruckStop.
I'd pack a lunch and sit in the Dealer's Showroom until he swapped my Firestons
for Michelins or Goodrichs (both of which come as OEM on your Explorer) AND I
WOULDN'T TAKE NO FOR AN ANSWER.
DickB
---- you wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 8/10/00 2:49:24 PM, mbrouill@ix.netcom.com writes:
>
> << Here's the Massachusetts end of how they're handling things locally... >>
>
> Since everyone's so interested in this topic: We own a 99 Fraud Exploder
> (everything in our garage has a name, reflecting our intellectual and
> emotional commitment to it) with, what do you think, Firestone Wilderness AT
> tires. So on the advice of our lease holder, who is getting ready to forward
> letters from Firestone, we called our Ford Dealer. Not to worry, he said --
> the recall only affects 15 inch tires, and ours are 16 inch. No 16 inch
> tires have ever failed.
>
> So, no new tires. Darn.
> Cheers
> gary
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From "Colin O'Brien" <cob at atg.com.au>
Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2000 09:11:43 +1000
Subject: Re: Ball park date around build of a BN7?
I've got BN7 HBN7 2552 - a thermo choke model and, from the original UK log
book, it was first registered on 27 July 1959 but I don't know the actual
build date.
Regards,
Colin O'Brien
Sydney Oz
--
> From: "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej@mossmotors.com>
> Reply-To: "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej@mossmotors.com>
> Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 10:57:18 -0700
> To: "'Editorgary@aol.com'" <Editorgary@aol.com>, healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: RE: Ball park date around build of a BN7?
>
>
> Hmmm. Been checking E-Bay have you?...
>
> Going by nmbers I have found in some books, I would estimate mid '59. July
> '59 was 2276 and December was 6320. You fall in the middle there.
>
> Good luck, the car looks nice. One thing, the spare tire cover is wrong.
> It should poke through into the rear of the cockpit over the battery cover.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Editorgary@aol.com [mailto:Editorgary@aol.com]
> Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2000 9:47 AM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Ball park date around build of a BN7?
>
>
>
>
> In a message dated 8/10/00 7:20:37 AM, mbrouill@ix.netcom.com writes:
>
> << Ok folks, not looking for an exact date, just a ballpark on a BN7 I'm
> considering. Does anyone have a serial number close that can tell me
> approx when their car was built?
>
> HBN7L4664
>>>
>
> the Healey Book can help a little there, by looking at dates of change
> points. In July of 1959, the thermo choke was introduced and North American
>
> cars started being shipped with sealed beam head lamps. These changes
> occurred at BT7/2194 and BN7/2276.
>
> In Nov 59, on engine E6369, (car number BN7/3235), they changed back to the
> manual choke.
>
> In December 59, at BN7/6487, they changed to a radiator with 12 gills per
> inch.
>
> So, your car was built in November or December of 1959.
>
> And should have a manual choke but not the upgraded radiator.
>
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
>
From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 19:59:07 EDT
Subject: Re: Ball park date around build of a BN7?
In a message dated 8/10/00 1:00:56 PM, Editorgary@aol.com writes:
<< Ok folks, not looking for an exact date, just a ballpark on a BN7 I'm
considering.>>
That would have to be Exhibition Park in Toronto, home of the Blue Jays. Not
actually built in 1959, but reopened then:
http://www.sfo.com/~itc/baseball/american/exhibi.htm :>)
Sorry, but it's day one of a 4-day weekend.
Rick
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 20:30:51 EDT
Subject: Re: Ball park date around build of a BN7?
In a message dated 08/10/2000 6:16:05 PM Central Daylight Time,
cob@atg.com.au writes:
<< I've got BN7 HBN7 2552 - a thermo choke model and, from the original UK log
book, it was first registered on 27 July 1959 but I don't know the actual
build date.
>>
So why don't you write and pay for BMIHT Cert. Colin???
Ed
From dsherm at mindspring.com (Daniel Sherman)
Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2000 00:57:33 GMT
Subject: Re: IMPORTANT re Firestone Recall
Ok lets put it to rest on the tires now.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Affected Tires and Vehicles
Bridgestone / Firestone tire company recently announced a Safety
recall on the following:
- All Firestone P235/75 R15 Radial ATX tires produced* and*
-P235/75 R15 Wilderness AT tires produced only at the Decatur plant.
NOTE: Decatur built tires have a DOR code of VDHL All other
Wilderness tires ARE NOT AFFECTED.
The following vehicles produced with firestone P235/75 R15 RADIAL ATX
ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT TIRES are affected by this recall:
-Certain 1991 through 1996 Ford Explorer vehicles (excluding Limited
and Eddie Bauer editions)
-Certain 1996 Mercury Mountaineer vehicles
-Certain 1991 through 1996 Ranger vehicles
-Certain 1991 through 1994 F-Series vehicles
The following vehicles produced with P235/75 R15 WILDERNESS AT TIRES
AS ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT are affected by this recall:
-Certain1997 through February 28, 2000 Explorer (Excluding Eddie Bauer
and Limited Editions)
-Certain 1997 through February 28, 2000 Ranger Vehicles
Important Facts
-This is a Firestone recall
-Firestone will notify customers of the recall via first class mail
-Firestone will communicate recall information to authorized repair
sites including Ford and Lincoln Mercury Around the Wheel/Ford tire
program dealers.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Now my view points to the posts.
First being a Ford Technician for the past 20 years we have NEVER
secretly replaced anyones tires
Would I put these tires on my own vehicles NO ---Why because they
would look stupid on a 1991 Capri xr2 Turbo, 1988 Mustang LX , 1984
Honda Gold Wing, 1962 Sprite.
Would I if I had a Explorer or Ranger YES --- Why because I maintain
my vehicles and always check the tires (visually) before going
anywhere. And most of the problems come from improperly inflated
tires or tires that had hit to many curbs.
You people say that firestone will end up out of business because of
this.....Does that mean healeys are no good since they went out of
business and are no longer made?
What people are hearing is like the game we played as KIDS where you
sit in a circle and start at one point and whisper to the one next to
you and by the time it gets to the end it is all messed up. It was
funny then but this is real life and is not funny.
From "Ron Schonscheck" <schonny at y2consult.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 12:14:16 -0600
Subject: ID
How can a 100M be identified beyond the shadow of a doubt? Is this
possible? Thanks
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 21:57:16 EDT
Subject: Re: Ball park date around build of a BN7?
In a message dated 8/10/00 7:02:29 AM, mbrouill@ix.netcom.com writes:
<< Ok folks, not looking for an exact date, just a ballpark on a BN7 I'm
considering. Does anyone have a serial number close that can tell me
approx when their car was built?
HBN7L4664
Thanks in advance,
Mike B >>
September 1959
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>Br
itishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 22:16:11 -0400
Subject: Horns
I am looking for two original (Lucas Altette) horns for a 1960 BN7.
These are gold colored and were originally mounted in front of the
radiator on each side. If I can't find working ones, my alternative
is to find someone to restore them. Any ideas?
From "Melvin L. Dale" <mldale at midusa.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 21:24:25 -0500
Subject: Re: ID
Ron Schonscheck wrote:
> How can a 100M be identified beyond the shadow of a doubt? Is this
> possible? Thanks
Subject:
Re: ID
Date:
Thu, 10 Aug 2000 21:21:08 -0500
From:
"Melvin L. Dale" <mldale@midusa.net>
To:
Ron Schonscheck <schonny@y2consult.com>
References:
1
Unless someone has taken the tine to remove and restamp the body
numbers, you will find it stamped on the left side of the bonnet, on the
bracket on the boot lid where the prop is attached. Also you will find
it stamped on the inside of the cockpit molding. this was done at the
factory when the were fitting the panels and found ones that fit. If the
information supplied to you that your car was fitted with a louvered
hood with you car number.
Ron Schonscheck wrote:
> How can a 100M be identified beyond the shadow of a doubt? Is this
> possible? Thanks
From ROBERT KIRK <kirkbrit at juno.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 23:52:21 -0400
Subject: Re: Firestone Perspective
Reference is to Firestone 721 or 724s (later marketed at 727s) built in
the 70s...about 75 or 76.....had typical sidewall separation a problem
common on many radials in the era but especially Firestones. In fact the
recall led to the demise of the Ohio based operation which was taken over
by the Japs (i think it is still controlled from japan). NEVER heard
anything about candy wrappers or such but have first hand expierence with
the recall back then.
R Kirk
On Thu, 10 Aug 2000 17:52:15 -0400 (EDT) dickb@cheerful.com writes:
>
> Tim
>
> I assume this is a joke of the "cat in the microwave" variety.
>
> Candy wrappers - Xray machines??
>
> I don't think so.
>
> ---- you wrote:
> >
> > In a message dated Thu, 10 Aug 2000 8:00:02 AM Eastern Daylight
> Time, "Charles Sither" <crsither@hotmail.com> writes:
> >
> > <<
> > How many remember a similar Firestone recall in the early 80's? >>
> >
> > I do recall the firestone story from the first one which caused
> them to be bought by the Japanese. They were having trouble with
> the tire tread seperating from the body, and discovered the cause of
> this. It seems that trash was becoming trapped in the tire during
> the manufacture. Trash...like candy wrappers. Their solution?
> Install x-ray machines to look inside each tire to see if trash got
> trapped inside before it shipped. Needless to say, it was expensive
> to install.
> >
> > Well when the Japanese took over they asked why there were so many
> of these big x-ray machines in the plants. The firestone guys of
> course explained their findings to their new managers. The japanese
> were understandably incredulous over such an expendature, and then
> decided that no food would be allowed on the floor from that point
> on. six months later the x-ray machines were demolished and they
> never had that problem again.
> >
> > Perhaps they have relaxed the candy bar rule at Firestone again.
> >
> > Tim Wallace
> > '67 BJ8
> > Fuquay-Varina, NC
> >
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
From pcowper at webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 21:10:03 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Firestone Tires
Does this list bring back memories!
I was a Union Oil Company of California Retail Representative in
1976-1978 during the Firestone 500 fiasco. The "Union 76 Five Star
Steel Belted Radial" was private brand manufactured by Firestone and I
spent most of my workdays adjusting tread separations. Some of those
tires would twist up like a pretzel when they were dismounted off the
rim.
The rumor was that the steel belt materials were getting slight rust
during storage before the tires were put together. My Union 76 dealer
out on I-5 about half way from L.A. to S. F. said that after putting on
a new tire they would check the pressure in the remaining tires and
usually find them all down around 15 to 20 pounds. With radials new on
the market, first time owners were told the sidewalls should look like
the tire was "flat" so they just let them keep going down without ever
checking pressures thinking they were okay. A three hour summer trip on
I-5 and the tire would fail.
Ford's suggestion to lower the pressures may have created the same
problem.
Of course years later I am now a lawyer in California watching this with
great interest. No doubt the states that Ford and Firestone have
addressed first are those states in which the insurance industry has not
yet won "Tort Reform" and manufacturers are not shielded from
consumer-victims' claims.
Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
From ROBERT KIRK <kirkbrit at juno.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2000 00:08:58 -0400
Subject: Re: IMPORTANT re Firestone Recall
Dick B
That is Bandag based in Muscatine Iowa.
R Kirk
On Thu, 10 Aug 2000 19:14:08 -0400 (EDT) dickb@cheerful.com writes:
>
> Gary
>
> I feel so strongly about this I'm willing to take on the Flamers,
> wherever they may reside.
>
> 15", 16", 17", what's the difference. Firestone says they have NO
> IDEA what the problem is - at least that's what they say TODAY, yet
> they have been settling lawsuits for many years and Ford has been
> doing free replacements since 1992 (when the Explorer was
> introduced) in a whole list of countries.
>
> Do you really think that the Firestone methodology is different
> depending on SIZE or Tread Design?
>
> That makes about as much sense as someone asking this List - "I
> heard that the Healeys that were originally BRG were prone to Front
> Suspension problems"
>
> IF YOU WERE MY FLESH AND BLOOD I WOULD SIT IN YOUR DRIVEWAY UNTIL
> YOU REMOVED YOUR FIRESTONE TIRES.
>
> And since I consider all of the people on this List to be family, I
> would say the same.
>
> What makes the Rubber "stick" to the carcass is moist heat - that is
> what the vulcanizing process is all about. The treads you see along
> the Interstate are from bad recaps on 18 wheelers for the most part.
> The recappers don't properly control the temperatures and moisture
> levels when applying the new treads. Bandar (sp) guarantees their
> recaps against tread separation, others don't. That's why Bandars
> are so expensive compared to standard Recaps. Talk to a trucker at
> a TruckStop.
>
> I'd pack a lunch and sit in the Dealer's Showroom until he swapped
> my Firestons for Michelins or Goodrichs (both of which come as OEM
> on your Explorer) AND I WOULDN'T TAKE NO FOR AN ANSWER.
>
> DickB
>
>
>
> ---- you wrote:
> >
> >
> > In a message dated 8/10/00 2:49:24 PM, mbrouill@ix.netcom.com
> writes:
> >
> > << Here's the Massachusetts end of how they're handling things
> locally... >>
> >
> > Since everyone's so interested in this topic: We own a 99 Fraud
> Exploder
> > (everything in our garage has a name, reflecting our intellectual
> and
> > emotional commitment to it) with, what do you think, Firestone
> Wilderness AT
> > tires. So on the advice of our lease holder, who is getting ready
> to forward
> > letters from Firestone, we called our Ford Dealer. Not to worry,
> he said --
> > the recall only affects 15 inch tires, and ours are 16 inch. No
> 16 inch
> > tires have ever failed.
> >
> > So, no new tires. Darn.
> > Cheers
> > gary
> >
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
From ROBERT KIRK <kirkbrit at juno.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2000 00:16:52 -0400
Subject: Re: ID
As all of the components were available as factory options or dealer
options my vote is no it is not possible.
R Kirk
On Thu, 10 Aug 2000 21:24:25 -0500 "Melvin L. Dale" <mldale@midusa.net>
writes:
>
>
>
> Ron Schonscheck wrote:
>
> > How can a 100M be identified beyond the shadow of a doubt? Is
> this
> > possible? Thanks
>
> Subject:
> Re: ID
> Date:
> Thu, 10 Aug 2000 21:21:08 -0500
> From:
> "Melvin L. Dale" <mldale@midusa.net>
> To:
> Ron Schonscheck <schonny@y2consult.com>
> References:
> 1
>
>
>
>
> Unless someone has taken the tine to remove and restamp the body
> numbers, you will find it stamped on the left side of the bonnet, on
> the
>
> bracket on the boot lid where the prop is attached. Also you will
> find
> it stamped on the inside of the cockpit molding. this was done at
> the
> factory when the were fitting the panels and found ones that fit. If
> the
>
> information supplied to you that your car was fitted with a louvered
> hood with you car number.
>
> Ron Schonscheck wrote:
>
> > How can a 100M be identified beyond the shadow of a doubt? Is
> this
> > possible? Thanks
>
>
>
>
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2000 00:36:14 EDT
Subject: Re: ID
In a message dated 8/10/00 6:40:45 PM, schonny@y2consult.com writes:
<<
How can a 100M be identified beyond the shadow of a doubt? Is this
possible? Thanks >>
It's actually pretty simple. The litmus test is a BMIHT certificate that
indicates the car was a 100M, and cockpit moldings stamped with the body
number on that certificate.
You take the vin number from the car in question. You check with BMIHT. They
issue a certificate that indicates the vin number and body number, and tells
you if that car was received at Longbridge with a louvered bonnet, making it
by definition a 100M, that is, a BN2 modified by Jensen and Healey Motor
Company with the Le Mans modifications before shipment to the customer. You
remove the cockpit moldings from the car and look under them. If the cockpit
moldings have the same body number on them as indicated on your certificate,
then that body is the one that got the modifications at Jensen and DHMCo.
There's much more detail in the Austin-Healey Resource book about what the
modifications were, the background, and so forth. Worth reading for more
information.
Given that this discussion crops up about once every 18 months, the standard
questions can now be asked -- what about the BN1s that were modified at the
factory? (couldn't have been called "100Ms" -- the term hadn't been invented
yet) What about the BN1s and BN2s that were taken to DHMCo for modification?
(Very interesting cars, and potentially valuable if that can be documented,
but not "100Ms" since that was a marketing term and such cars weren't sold
from the showroom as that product.) How many were there? (640 with the
above documentation; any others -- probably many others that got modified by
DHMCo, especially the BN1s, but the number given by Geoff Healey in his book
"about 1200" is the only number we have and it can't be verified in any
secondary source.)
All the other folks who have an interest in the cars with Le Mans
modifications may now weigh in with their opinions.
Cheers
Gary
From Alan at roverworks.com (Alan Simpson)
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 21:56:23 -0700
Subject: RE: ID
I imagine the discussion regarding the 100M identification was sparked by
the one for sale on e bay. It looks like a "proper" project. Does anyone
know the car?
From "Josef Eckert" <Josef.Eckert at t-mobil.de>
Date: 11 Aug 2000 06:25:59 +0000
Subject: Fan pulley removal
Dear Phil,
I understood from your question, that you have problems with opening the
centre-nut at the pulley. There is an trick to use an old fan belt, put it
around the pulley and clasp the belt in a vice. So you get loosen the nut
without any damage to the pulley. It works perfectly on my waterpump. (Sorry
for the bad English).
Josef Eckert, Germany, 54, BN1; 62, BT7 and a Sprite MK 3
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2000 01:21:28 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Free AHCUSA Memberships
Hi all,
The Austin-Healey Club USA is currently offering FREE trial memberships. To
take advantage of this offer, all you need to do is send an e-mail to:
douga@healey.org
and say "I would like a free trial membership," and provide your name and
mailing address. We'll put you on the roster immediately and your free
trial membership will expire at the end of this year. You'll receive all
issues of Austin-Healey Magazine that are published between when you sign-up
and the end of the year.
We have long believed that the best way to introduce people to the club is
to let them see our club magazine -- it sells itself! We hope that you'll
like the magazine and that you'll want to get it regularly.
This is an unlimited offer so please tell your Healey-enthusiast friends.
If you're a member of a local of regional club, please ask if it might be
possible to publish this free offer in the club's newsletter. (Several
clubs are already doing this.) You could also just provide your club's
membership list and we would give ALL of them the free trial membership (a
couple of clubs are already doing this).
There are no strings attached and we will not sell or give your name and
address to anyone else for any other purpose.
Thank you kindly. We hope you'll take advantage of this offer.
Happy Healeying,
Reid Trummel
President, Austin-Healey Club USA
Publishers of --
-- Austin-Healey Magazine
-- Austin-Healey Resource Book
-- Austin-Healey Calendar
http://www.healey.org
_______________________________________________________
Say Bye to Slow Internet!
http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html
From dsherm at mindspring.com (Daniel Sherman)
Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2000 09:32:16 GMT
Subject: Re: IMPORTANT re Firestone Recall
On Fri, 11 Aug 2000 05:22:13 -0400, you wrote:
>I would assume that curbs are hit and tires underinflated with other tires,
>but seems to me we are hearing that it's the firestone tires that are the
>ones coming apart.
>
So you are saying that it is alright to not take care of things and
then blame it on someone else? Not me I take responsibility for my
vehicles and maintain them properly. I have had Michelins that had
the tread separate and BF goodrich does that mean they are no good
also? Working as a auto Technician for 27 years (20 with Ford) I have
seen many a tire fall apart other then Firestone BUT it was a
firestone on the car of a sue happy person that is causing this whole
mess.
If you are going 90 and a tire blows and causes a fatal accident. Who
is at fault for the fatality? Had you been doing the speed limit the
tire may not have blown after all was it a tire designed for racing at
high speeds? Had you been doing the speed limit and the tire still
blew would it have caused a accident? If you are negligent in your
actions don't blame others for it just to save your own hide. Just
knowing that much more comes into play then just a tire being bad.
But no the media and alot of people blow things way out of proportion
when they don't know the whole story or have all the facts. The media
only tells what they want you to hear WHY so they can sell papers
after all isn't it the bad stuff that sells papers? (reason I don't
read the papers. I get facts right from the sources if I want to know
the truth)
A man I work with lost his son in a accident, He was speeding on a
road and a lady pulled out a little to far to see if it was clear for
her to pull out. He clipped her front end and lost control and hit a
tree with the drivers door killing him instantly. Whose fault was it?
He was blamed for the accident when it was actually the persons fault
that had the trailer parked blocking the lady's vision. However had
he been doing the speed limit he would have been able to keep the car
under control.
>Yes, Healey went out of business, but it wasn't because it was falling apart
>and killing people.
And you have proof I assume that no healey ever broke and caused a
fatal accident?
>
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2000 03:32:12 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Jim Hockert, Please Contact Me
Sorry to bomb the whole list, but the email address I have for lister Jim
Hockert of Dallas, Texas doesn't seem to work (the address I have is
rsh.co@worldnet.att.net) so Jim, please contact me. Thanks.
_______________________________________________________
Say Bye to Slow Internet!
http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2000 06:49:37 EDT
Subject: Re: ID
In a message dated 8/11/00 12:51:00 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
Editorgary@aol.com writes:
<< All the other folks who have an interest in the cars with Le Mans
modifications may now weigh in with their opinions. >>
Given the various ways that a stock BN2 (or even a BN1) might have received
its modifications, it is no wonder that there is a lot of confusion on this
point. Most signifignantly, as the market for M's continues to grow hotter,
more and more cars will be represented as "the real deal" when in fact they
are counterfeits. I ran into a fellow with more dollars than sense at a
show last year who unashamedly admitted that he paid $45K for an M, only to
find out that it was not a "real" M. I know of two very nice Le Mans
modified 100's on the market right now that are being sold as M's for big $$.
And I overheard someone waggishly observe that, given the rate at which M's
are being "manufactured", pretty soon stock unconverted 100's will attain a
special status!
When I bought my car it was advertised as a "100 M Le Mans", but the seller
quickly informed me that he bought the car from the original owner and that
it had received a Le Mans kit in 1957. This was backed up by a box full of
parts, including the original stock intake manifolds (carbs gone!),
distributor, camshaft and attendant valve gear, etc. (Hmm--just in case the
price on stock 100's soars I can just press out these hood louvers, bolt on a
few of the old parts and fraudulently claim that it is NOT a lowly M!)
Happy with what I have: a 100 w/Le Mans kit
Michael Oritt, St. Leonard, MD.
From hm.heim at t-online.de (Helga & Martin Heim)
Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2000 12:37:18 +0200
Subject: Bad Tires
Hi all,
me over here in Germany I wonder about all that bad tires / tread separation
stuff. As you may know we still have the possibility to drive on the
Autobahn and some other roads as fast as we like. I usually drive my Audi A4
between 90 - 120 mph when being on the road (without speed limits) I now
drive 20 years and NEVER EVER haven't had or heard from friends about tires
with tread separation or anything similar. How come ?
Are the tire manufacturers shipping their second class tires to countries
where there are speed limits ? Or how come you Americans talk about bad
tires as if you have failures ever couple of weeks - or just with
Firestones. <g>
Now offense intended just wondering
Best Regards
Martin / Germany
(proud of having bought yesterday a Audi A3 which will do 140 mph if I like
to. Sorry could not resist !)
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2000 09:35:33 -0400
Subject: Re: Firestone Tires
>Of course years later I am now a lawyer in California watching this with
>great interest. No doubt the states that Ford and Firestone have
>addressed first are those states in which the insurance industry has not
>yet won "Tort Reform" and manufacturers are not shielded from
>consumer-victims' claims.
Nor are consumers from paying the ultimate cost of of silly litigation such
as the family of a drunk who crashed a Cessna 150 that sued the aircraft
maker for not devising a way to prevent drunks from operating the air craft
fifteen years earlier when that plane was built!
Lee Mairs
'62 BT7 Tri-carb
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2000 09:44:47 -0400
Subject: Trunk hinge pin BT7
I need a pin for one of the trunk hinges on my '62 BT7 Tri-carb. The
original pin was replaced with a bent copper nail that continually tries to
back itself out. (Must know that the Concours guys wouldn't approve!)
Anyone have a spare hinge that they wouldn't mind parting with?
Lee Mairs
'62 BT7 Tri-carb
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2000 09:44:40 -0400
Subject: HubaHuba (long)
Hi everyone, just wanted to share my experience last night with the group.
A few weeks ago I adjusted my rear brakes and to my displeasure after I
replaced the wheel for a test drive. I was greeted with a very annoying
grinding sound when I would accelerate. Now, I really think it was fate,
because that same day a couple was coming up to look at her, to buy. I
managed to get the spinner on REAL tight and she performed fine, but I told
him about the problem don't want to rip anyone off. Needless to say he lost
interest, I guess because he has an 84 Alpha and didn't like the ride, she
is a brute... ;-) First thing they asked when they came back, how do you
turn off the heat.... ;-) anyhow I digress... The next day I called Healey
Surgeons and ordered a new hub and axle seal ( I noticed a little oil around
the hub). Last night after finishing all my chores..I spent some intimate
time with her. Oh.. I forgot to mention the wife went to bed.. I started
around 10:30 and finished up around 12:15..I wish I could last that long
normally.. ;-) She was great, the music was right, as was the mood. She
was very receptive to all my moves, as I slowly pulled on her axle I swore I
heard her groan in ecstasy. I replaced the seals and pulled the hub from
it's box and I know I heard her sigh at the sight. The hard machined piece
of metal seemed to glimmer in the glow from the shop light. It was
beautiful, it was smooth, it had all the right grooves, and now it was
hers.... whaooooo, sorry, forgot this was a family list.... anyhow it's on
and she likes it but now she wants new rear wheels.... you can never please
them can you... ;-)
Steve, all in fun, Kocik
61
BN7 (first love)
From "Scheuble, Fred J. ,HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2000 10:20:13 -0400
Subject: RE: HubaHuba (long)
Steve,
you need to get out more! (wink)
-----Original Message-----
From: Kocik, Stephen W [mailto:Stephen.Kocik@unisys.com]
Sent: Friday, August 11, 2000 9:45 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: HubaHuba (long)
Hi everyone, just wanted to share my experience last night with the group.
A few weeks ago I adjusted my rear brakes and to my displeasure after I
replaced the wheel for a test drive. I was greeted with a very annoying
grinding sound when I would accelerate. Now, I really think it was fate,
because that same day a couple was coming up to look at her, to buy. I
managed to get the spinner on REAL tight and she performed fine, but I told
him about the problem don't want to rip anyone off. Needless to say he lost
interest, I guess because he has an 84 Alpha and didn't like the ride, she
is a brute... ;-) First thing they asked when they came back, how do you
turn off the heat.... ;-) anyhow I digress... The next day I called Healey
Surgeons and ordered a new hub and axle seal ( I noticed a little oil around
the hub). Last night after finishing all my chores..I spent some intimate
time with her. Oh.. I forgot to mention the wife went to bed.. I started
around 10:30 and finished up around 12:15..I wish I could last that long
normally.. ;-) She was great, the music was right, as was the mood. She
was very receptive to all my moves, as I slowly pulled on her axle I swore I
heard her groan in ecstasy. I replaced the seals and pulled the hub from
it's box and I know I heard her sigh at the sight. The hard machined piece
of metal seemed to glimmer in the glow from the shop light. It was
beautiful, it was smooth, it had all the right grooves, and now it was
hers.... whaooooo, sorry, forgot this was a family list.... anyhow it's on
and she likes it but now she wants new rear wheels.... you can never please
them can you... ;-)
Steve, all in fun, Kocik
61
BN7 (first love)
From "Michael Lupynec" <mlupynec at globalserve.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2000 10:51:42 -0400
Subject: Re: Bad Tires
To answer your question --- in the good old USA an old woman was
awarded $millions after she spilled a hot MacDonald's coffee in
her lap. The US legal system is rife with contingency law suits
and has no "loser pay" provisions -(in Germany you have to post a
bond when filing a legal claim). America also has too many lawyers
(on a per capita basis 10 times as many as in Japan- and the
reverse in engineers). My guess is more than 50% of each of the 3
branches of US government is populated by lawyers - by historic
definition truly an oligarchy! And over time Congressional
authority is being handed over to the Supreme Court. The Trial
Lawyers association is said to be one of the largest contributors
to the Presidential race.
The good news is that the balance of power in product liability
is biased to the consumer more than in most other countries,
although this is now being challenged at the legislative level.
Clinton, a trial lawyer himself, has vetoed the proposed reforms.
The bad news is whole industries (ie General Aviation aircraft)
are sometimes drummed out of business. The bad news is everything
gets inflamed on TV, by the same crowd that staged 'burning GM
trucks'. The bad news is we get holier than thou DickB giving us
one sided diatribe (according to DickB everybody in Firestone
and/or Ford is a JERK and EVERY tire now built by Firestone MUST
be defective). There's many sides to this story and I bet you a
legal donut DickB did not send Daniel Sherman's 'other' reasonable
view on the tire recall to his very long fan-email copy list.
Hey, Dick, I would guess your emotional/legal confused state of
mind doesn't stop you from using Tylenol - remember the recall?
Hey, Dick, there are lot's of other product liability issues out
there killing people everyday. Why aren't you on your soapbox with
us more often? Is a tire death victim somehow more relevant?
Hey, Dick, maybe please tell us what personal bee is really up
your bonnet on this particular issue? I would have loved to see
you blocking my driveway to save my family from a horrible death,
but alas, I only have Goodyears on my F150.
But wait a minute, now that I remember, a year ago there was a
Ford recall on retightening the wheel lug nuts!
Mike L.
60A,67E,59Bug
l
----- Original Message -----
From: Helga & Martin Heim <hm.heim@t-online.de>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: August 11, 2000 6:37 AM
Subject: Bad Tires
>
> Hi all,
>
> me over here in Germany I wonder about all that bad tires /
tread separation
> stuff. As you may know we still have the possibility to drive on
the
> Autobahn and some other roads as fast as we like. I usually
drive my Audi A4
> between 90 - 120 mph when being on the road (without speed
limits) I now
> drive 20 years and NEVER EVER haven't had or heard from friends
about tires
> with tread separation or anything similar. How come ?
> Are the tire manufacturers shipping their second class tires to
countries
> where there are speed limits ? Or how come you Americans talk
about bad
> tires as if you have failures ever couple of weeks - or just
with
> Firestones. <g>
> Now offense intended just wondering
>
> Best Regards
>
> Martin / Germany
> (proud of having bought yesterday a Audi A3 which will do 140
mph if I like
> to. Sorry could not resist !)
>
>
From "Michael Lupynec" <mlupynec at globalserve.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2000 10:56:35 -0400
Subject: Re: HubaHuba (long)
BTDT, intricate aluminum castings polished to the nth degree. How
lucky we are - in some places they haven't invented the stone
wheel yet.
Mike L.
60A,67E,59Bug
----- Original Message -----
From: Kocik, Stephen W <Stephen.Kocik@unisys.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: August 11, 2000 9:44 AM
Subject: HubaHuba (long)
>
The hard machined piece
> of metal seemed to glimmer in the glow from the shop light. It
was
> beautiful, it was smooth, it had all the right grooves, >
> Steve, all in fun, Kocik
> 61
> BN7 (first love)
>
From "rons" <arjayarjay at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 17:46:35 +0000
Subject: Re: Firestone Perspective
Way back when the world was y oung, I worked on the Firestone account at
Cammpell-Ewald, an advertising agency in Detroit. They took me on a tour of
the factory. I cannot imagine candy wrappers anywhere on that assembly line.
What's more, how would an x-ray reveal 'junk' of that variety within a tire
casing? Ron
----------
>From: dickb@cheerful.com
>To: Healybj8@aol.com, austin healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: Firestone Perspective
>Date: Thu, Aug 10, 2000, 9:52 PM
>
>
> Tim
>
> I assume this is a joke of the "cat in the microwave" variety.
>
> Candy wrappers - Xray machines??
>
> I don't think so.
>
> ---- you wrote:
>>
>> In a message dated Thu, 10 Aug 2000 8:00:02 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> "Charles Sither" <crsither@hotmail.com> writes:
>>
>> <<
>> How many remember a similar Firestone recall in the early 80's? >>
>>
>> I do recall the firestone story from the first one which caused them to
> be bought by the Japanese. They were having trouble with the tire tread
> seperating from the body, and discovered the cause of this. It seems that
> trash was becoming trapped in the tire during the manufacture.
> Trash...like candy wrappers. Their solution? Install x-ray machines to
> look inside each tire to see if trash got trapped inside before it shipped.
> Needless to say, it was expensive to install.
>>
>> Well when the Japanese took over they asked why there were so many of
> these big x-ray machines in the plants. The firestone guys of course
> explained their findings to their new managers. The japanese were
> understandably incredulous over such an expendature, and then decided that
> no food would be allowed on the floor from that point on. six months later
> the x-ray machines were demolished and they never had that problem again.
>>
>> Perhaps they have relaxed the candy bar rule at Firestone again.
>>
>> Tim Wallace
>> '67 BJ8
>> Fuquay-Varina, NC
>>
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2000 11:56:02 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: ID
Sorry - that's "beyond a shadow of a doubt" for Factory Ms, but lots of "real"
Ms were done by the Dealer - and #s won't help. For that you need the original
Dealer Paperwork.
DickB
---- you wrote:
>
>
>
> Ron Schonscheck wrote:
>
> > How can a 100M be identified beyond the shadow of a doubt? Is this
> > possible? Thanks
>
> Subject:
> Re: ID
> Date:
> Thu, 10 Aug 2000 21:21:08 -0500
> From:
> "Melvin L. Dale" <mldale@midusa.net>
> To:
> Ron Schonscheck <schonny@y2consult.com>
> References:
> 1
>
>
>
>
> Unless someone has taken the tine to remove and restamp the body
> numbers, you will find it stamped on the left side of the bonnet, on the
>
> bracket on the boot lid where the prop is attached. Also you will find
> it stamped on the inside of the cockpit molding. this was done at the
> factory when the were fitting the panels and found ones that fit. If the
>
> information supplied to you that your car was fitted with a louvered
> hood with you car number.
>
> Ron Schonscheck wrote:
>
> > How can a 100M be identified beyond the shadow of a doubt? Is this
> > possible? Thanks
>
>
>
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From Martin Johnson <MJohnson at cfworks.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2000 08:56:58 -0700
Subject: RE: IMPORTANT re Firestone Recall
Thanks for the information regarding which tires are affected by the recall.
Speaking ONLY FOR MYSELF AS AN OWNER OF A 2000 MERCURY MOUNTAINEER WITH
FIRESTONE WILDERNESS AT TIRES as original equipment, I couldn't be more
pleased with the vehicle, and I've always been a loyal Ford customer.
However, I am disappointed in Ford. I feel like Ford is not active enough
in taking care of it's customers. Why can't Ford do at least as good a job
as the makers of Tylenol when there was that big tampering scare? I called
Magic Lincoln-Mercury in Santa Clarita, California which is where I
purchased my car. I wanted some information on exactly what was wrong.
This goes to your point about carrying stories, and how the facts get
twisted. They gave me zero information, except to put the responsibility on
ME to contact Firestone. That's B.S. Why can't Ford be a leader? There's
plenty of money to do it, I'm sure. The board members of the corporation
probably feel like they will lose their jobs if the stockholders lose any
precious money. The only thing I can think of is that if they are more
active, they will be perceived to be more at fault. Everybody knows Ford
doesn't manufacture tires, however I believe it's safe to say that thinking
people feel that Ford should stand behind their TOTAL product, which
includes the tires. HOW CAN YOU BE A WORLD LEADER WITH NO GUTS?
Martin Johnson
-----Original Message-----
From: dsherm@mindspring.com [mailto:dsherm@mindspring.com]
Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2000 5:58 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: IMPORTANT re Firestone Recall
Ok lets put it to rest on the tires now.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----------------------------------
Affected Tires and Vehicles
Bridgestone / Firestone tire company recently announced a Safety
recall on the following:
- All Firestone P235/75 R15 Radial ATX tires produced* and*
-P235/75 R15 Wilderness AT tires produced only at the Decatur plant.
NOTE: Decatur built tires have a DOR code of VDHL All other
Wilderness tires ARE NOT AFFECTED.
The following vehicles produced with firestone P235/75 R15 RADIAL ATX
ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT TIRES are affected by this recall:
-Certain 1991 through 1996 Ford Explorer vehicles (excluding Limited
and Eddie Bauer editions)
-Certain 1996 Mercury Mountaineer vehicles
-Certain 1991 through 1996 Ranger vehicles
-Certain 1991 through 1994 F-Series vehicles
The following vehicles produced with P235/75 R15 WILDERNESS AT TIRES
AS ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT are affected by this recall:
-Certain1997 through February 28, 2000 Explorer (Excluding Eddie Bauer
and Limited Editions)
-Certain 1997 through February 28, 2000 Ranger Vehicles
Important Facts
-This is a Firestone recall
-Firestone will notify customers of the recall via first class mail
-Firestone will communicate recall information to authorized repair
sites including Ford and Lincoln Mercury Around the Wheel/Ford tire
program dealers.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----------------------------------------------------
Now my view points to the posts.
First being a Ford Technician for the past 20 years we have NEVER
secretly replaced anyones tires
Would I put these tires on my own vehicles NO ---Why because they
would look stupid on a 1991 Capri xr2 Turbo, 1988 Mustang LX , 1984
Honda Gold Wing, 1962 Sprite.
Would I if I had a Explorer or Ranger YES --- Why because I maintain
my vehicles and always check the tires (visually) before going
anywhere. And most of the problems come from improperly inflated
tires or tires that had hit to many curbs.
You people say that firestone will end up out of business because of
this.....Does that mean healeys are no good since they went out of
business and are no longer made?
What people are hearing is like the game we played as KIDS where you
sit in a circle and start at one point and whisper to the one next to
you and by the time it gets to the end it is all messed up. It was
funny then but this is real life and is not funny.
From William Moyer <William.Moyer at millersv.edu>
Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2000 12:07:59 -0400
Subject: RE: Firestone Tires
Nor are consumers from paying the ultimate cost of of silly litigation such
as the family of a drunk who crashed a Cessna 150 that sued the aircraft
maker for not devising a way to prevent drunks from operating the air craft
fifteen years earlier when that plane was built!
<As a participant in such litigation (just call me Paladin) I can tell you
that when a jury and a debate team all-star attorney get together anything
is possible. I've been in a case where a man shot his grandmother in the
back with a shotgun, paralyzing her and they sued the gun manufacturer, five
years later, for not having a larger "red dot" to indicate its readiness to
fire. He performed this triumph of firearms safety from the outside of
their trailer into the living room (no window involved) where she was
sitting in a rocking chair holding his daughter. The firearms manufacturer
was found liable and had to pay large bucks. Like millions.
The lesson is that Firestone -will- be hurt by this, deservedly or no,
especially if Barry Scheck (sp?) gets involved.
Bill Moyer, BJ7
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2000 12:11:34 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Firestone Tires
Pete, this thing not only has me outraged as a car guy and an opponent of Greed
Rules, but I'm tempted to come back into the practice.
Someone should have told both Ford and Firestone to keep their mouths shut - if
that's what they decided to do in 1992 when this all started. By now there is
enough contradictory statements out there I wouldn't be surprised to see that
after the NHTSB completes it's investigation - ongoing since May - criminal
charges aren't brought against both companies. Civil cases should be absolute
slam-dunks, don't you think?
Dick
---- you wrote:
>
> Does this list bring back memories!
>
> I was a Union Oil Company of California Retail Representative in
> 1976-1978 during the Firestone 500 fiasco. The "Union 76 Five Star
> Steel Belted Radial" was private brand manufactured by Firestone and I
> spent most of my workdays adjusting tread separations. Some of those
> tires would twist up like a pretzel when they were dismounted off the
> rim.
>
> The rumor was that the steel belt materials were getting slight rust
> during storage before the tires were put together. My Union 76 dealer
> out on I-5 about half way from L.A. to S. F. said that after putting on
> a new tire they would check the pressure in the remaining tires and
> usually find them all down around 15 to 20 pounds. With radials new on
> the market, first time owners were told the sidewalls should look like
> the tire was "flat" so they just let them keep going down without ever
> checking pressures thinking they were okay. A three hour summer trip on
> I-5 and the tire would fail.
>
> Ford's suggestion to lower the pressures may have created the same
> problem.
>
> Of course years later I am now a lawyer in California watching this with
> great interest. No doubt the states that Ford and Firestone have
> addressed first are those states in which the insurance industry has not
> yet won "Tort Reform" and manufacturers are not shielded from
> consumer-victims' claims.
>
> Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From "Josef Eckert" <Josef.Eckert at t-mobil.de>
Date: 11 Aug 2000 11:48:49 +0000
Subject: Bad Tires
Hi Martin,
I am living in Germany as well. Please do not leave the impression to the
Americans we are living in the land of Schlaraffia in Germany. Normally during
the day you have no chance to drive as fast as you like because of the very
heavy traffic and on most of the motorways we already have speed limits. I do
not like these crazy guys on German Motorways thinking they are the greatest,
causing a lot of danger to the other motorists.
Usually my normal drive speed is 80-90 mph on motorways (when it is possible)
and I had a couple of problems with tyres loosing thread or having broken
casings.
I like to live a little bit longer, so I do understand the discussion on this
issue.
Josef Eckert, Koenigwinter, Germany
54, BN1, 62, BT7
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2000 12:53:04 EDT
Subject: Re: ID
In a message dated 8/11/00 9:37:31 AM, dickb@cheerful.com writes:
<< Sorry - that's "beyond a shadow of a doubt" for Factory Ms, but lots of
"real" Ms were done by the Dealer - and #s won't help. For that you need the
original Dealer Paperwork.
DickB >>
No, Dick -- I'm afraid that's not quite accurate. the term "100M" was
promulgated by the BMC marketing department to describe a modified BN2 that
had been built and modified before being shipped from Longbridge to the
dealer. Hence the alternative term often used: "factory M". At the same
time, in its advertising, BMC promoted the existence of the availability of
"Le Mans Modifications" which could be purchased separately or in a kit, with
or without a louvered hood and hood straps. So if a dealer installed the
modifications, then it is a "100 with Le Mans Modifications." If it arrived
at the dealer with the modifications already installed, only then is it a
"100M"
The distinction is one of terminology, which I'm sure a lawyer can understand
and appreciate. ;-)
Cheers
Gary
From "John Bumpus" <jbumpus at home.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2000 10:25:14 -0700
Subject: Rear wheel bearings
Did anyone ever find a rear bearing replacement Number for a BJ8 from
an existing manufacture Thanks again Bumpy
From "Scheuble, Fred J. ,HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2000 13:44:59 -0400
Subject: RE: ID
unfortunately it's true with all marquees, there are more 427 vettes and
pony mustangs sold as original than Chevy or Ford built.
-----Original Message-----
From: Awgertoo@aol.com [mailto:Awgertoo@aol.com]
Sent: Friday, August 11, 2000 6:50 AM
To: Editorgary@aol.com
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: ID
In a message dated 8/11/00 12:51:00 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
Editorgary@aol.com writes:
<< All the other folks who have an interest in the cars with Le Mans
modifications may now weigh in with their opinions. >>
Given the various ways that a stock BN2 (or even a BN1) might have received
its modifications, it is no wonder that there is a lot of confusion on this
point. Most signifignantly, as the market for M's continues to grow hotter,
more and more cars will be represented as "the real deal" when in fact they
are counterfeits. I ran into a fellow with more dollars than sense at a
show last year who unashamedly admitted that he paid $45K for an M, only to
find out that it was not a "real" M. I know of two very nice Le Mans
modified 100's on the market right now that are being sold as M's for big
$$.
And I overheard someone waggishly observe that, given the rate at which
M's
are being "manufactured", pretty soon stock unconverted 100's will attain a
special status!
When I bought my car it was advertised as a "100 M Le Mans", but the seller
quickly informed me that he bought the car from the original owner and that
it had received a Le Mans kit in 1957. This was backed up by a box full of
parts, including the original stock intake manifolds (carbs gone!),
distributor, camshaft and attendant valve gear, etc. (Hmm--just in case the
price on stock 100's soars I can just press out these hood louvers, bolt on
a
few of the old parts and fraudulently claim that it is NOT a lowly M!)
Happy with what I have: a 100 w/Le Mans kit
Michael Oritt, St. Leonard, MD.
From "Pagel, John" <John.Pagel at imotors.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2000 11:12:33 -0700
Subject: RE: ID
I recently say a quote.... "of the approx 100 original Lotus 26Rs
built, about 250 are still in existence....."
John Pagel
Quality Control
Tel: 916-265-4424
John.Pagel@iMotors.com
You've never bought a used car like this.
-----Original Message-----
From: Scheuble, Fred J. ,HiServ/NA [mailto:fjscheuble@hiserv-na.com]
Sent: Friday, August 11, 2000 10:45 AM
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'; Editorgary@aol.com
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: ID
unfortunately it's true with all marquees, there are more 427 vettes and
pony mustangs sold as original than Chevy or Ford built.
-----Original Message-----
From: Awgertoo@aol.com [mailto:Awgertoo@aol.com]
Sent: Friday, August 11, 2000 6:50 AM
To: Editorgary@aol.com
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: ID
In a message dated 8/11/00 12:51:00 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
Editorgary@aol.com writes:
<< All the other folks who have an interest in the cars with Le Mans
modifications may now weigh in with their opinions. >>
Given the various ways that a stock BN2 (or even a BN1) might have received
its modifications, it is no wonder that there is a lot of confusion on this
point. Most signifignantly, as the market for M's continues to grow hotter,
more and more cars will be represented as "the real deal" when in fact they
are counterfeits. I ran into a fellow with more dollars than sense at a
show last year who unashamedly admitted that he paid $45K for an M, only to
find out that it was not a "real" M. I know of two very nice Le Mans
modified 100's on the market right now that are being sold as M's for big
$$.
And I overheard someone waggishly observe that, given the rate at which
M's
are being "manufactured", pretty soon stock unconverted 100's will attain a
special status!
When I bought my car it was advertised as a "100 M Le Mans", but the seller
quickly informed me that he bought the car from the original owner and that
it had received a Le Mans kit in 1957. This was backed up by a box full of
parts, including the original stock intake manifolds (carbs gone!),
distributor, camshaft and attendant valve gear, etc. (Hmm--just in case the
price on stock 100's soars I can just press out these hood louvers, bolt on
a
few of the old parts and fraudulently claim that it is NOT a lowly M!)
Happy with what I have: a 100 w/Le Mans kit
Michael Oritt, St. Leonard, MD.
From "Scheuble, Fred J. ,HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2000 14:54:12 -0400
Subject: RE: ID
lol
-----Original Message-----
From: Pagel, John [mailto:John.Pagel@imotors.com]
Sent: Friday, August 11, 2000 2:13 PM
To: 'Scheuble, Fred J. ,HiServ/NA'; 'Awgertoo@aol.com';
Editorgary@aol.com
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: ID
I recently say a quote.... "of the approx 100 original Lotus 26Rs
built, about 250 are still in existence....."
John Pagel
Quality Control
Tel: 916-265-4424
John.Pagel@iMotors.com
You've never bought a used car like this.
-----Original Message-----
From: Scheuble, Fred J. ,HiServ/NA [mailto:fjscheuble@hiserv-na.com]
Sent: Friday, August 11, 2000 10:45 AM
To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'; Editorgary@aol.com
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: ID
unfortunately it's true with all marquees, there are more 427 vettes and
pony mustangs sold as original than Chevy or Ford built.
-----Original Message-----
From: Awgertoo@aol.com [mailto:Awgertoo@aol.com]
Sent: Friday, August 11, 2000 6:50 AM
To: Editorgary@aol.com
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: ID
In a message dated 8/11/00 12:51:00 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
Editorgary@aol.com writes:
<< All the other folks who have an interest in the cars with Le Mans
modifications may now weigh in with their opinions. >>
Given the various ways that a stock BN2 (or even a BN1) might have received
its modifications, it is no wonder that there is a lot of confusion on this
point. Most signifignantly, as the market for M's continues to grow hotter,
more and more cars will be represented as "the real deal" when in fact they
are counterfeits. I ran into a fellow with more dollars than sense at a
show last year who unashamedly admitted that he paid $45K for an M, only to
find out that it was not a "real" M. I know of two very nice Le Mans
modified 100's on the market right now that are being sold as M's for big
$$.
And I overheard someone waggishly observe that, given the rate at which
M's
are being "manufactured", pretty soon stock unconverted 100's will attain a
special status!
When I bought my car it was advertised as a "100 M Le Mans", but the seller
quickly informed me that he bought the car from the original owner and that
it had received a Le Mans kit in 1957. This was backed up by a box full of
parts, including the original stock intake manifolds (carbs gone!),
distributor, camshaft and attendant valve gear, etc. (Hmm--just in case the
price on stock 100's soars I can just press out these hood louvers, bolt on
a
few of the old parts and fraudulently claim that it is NOT a lowly M!)
Happy with what I have: a 100 w/Le Mans kit
Michael Oritt, St. Leonard, MD.
From Healybj8 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2000 14:55:22 EDT
Subject: Re: Firestone Perspective
LOL! Boy you guys sure do get nasty in a hurry. OK candy bar wrappers was a
bit of liscence on my part, but was not un-heard of. Lighten up a little.
Trash was paper, paper clips, whatever. If you have stuff in there, then the
vulcanization doesn't work very well.
The x-ray machines detected inclusioons in the tread/casing area fater testing.
If there was trash in there, seperation would occur, hence the inclusion.
Remember that x-rays work at different intensities, just like the one that the
dentist uses on your teeth is different that the one that a cardiologist uses
on your heart.
My source was the quality engineer at the plant where they made truck tires. I
would assume he would know what was going on there, and by the way he gloated
over the firing of his boss who didn't remove trash from the plant but
installed the machines I would guess he knew what was going on there.
Anyway, I digress.
Tim
In a message dated Fri, 11 Aug 2000 11:45:44 AM Eastern Daylight Time, "rons"
<arjayarjay@worldnet.att.net> writes:
<<
Way back when the world was y oung, I worked on the Firestone account at
Cammpell-Ewald, an advertising agency in Detroit. They took me on a tour of
the factory. I cannot imagine candy wrappers anywhere on that assembly line.
What's more, how would an x-ray reveal 'junk' of that variety within a tire
casing? Ron
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at slip.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2000 15:35:06 -0700
Subject: Re: ID
Join the LeMans Registry. Bill Meade keeps a database of registered VINs, if
there's a
duplicate something's fishy. If I recall, it's only $10 or so to join.
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@slip.net (home)
San Jose, CA. bspidell@teknema.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scheuble, Fred J. ,HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble@hiserv-na.com>
To: "'Pagel, John'" <John.Pagel@imotors.com>; "Scheuble, Fred J. ,HiServ/NA"
<fjscheuble@hiserv-na.com>; <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <Editorgary@aol.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 11, 2000 11:54 AM
Subject: RE: ID
>
> lol
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Pagel, John [mailto:John.Pagel@imotors.com]
> Sent: Friday, August 11, 2000 2:13 PM
> To: 'Scheuble, Fred J. ,HiServ/NA'; 'Awgertoo@aol.com';
> Editorgary@aol.com
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: RE: ID
>
>
>
> I recently say a quote.... "of the approx 100 original Lotus 26Rs
> built, about 250 are still in existence....."
>
> John Pagel
> Quality Control
> Tel: 916-265-4424
> John.Pagel@iMotors.com
>
> You've never bought a used car like this.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Scheuble, Fred J. ,HiServ/NA [mailto:fjscheuble@hiserv-na.com]
> Sent: Friday, August 11, 2000 10:45 AM
> To: 'Awgertoo@aol.com'; Editorgary@aol.com
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: RE: ID
>
>
> unfortunately it's true with all marquees, there are more 427 vettes and
> pony mustangs sold as original than Chevy or Ford built.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Awgertoo@aol.com [mailto:Awgertoo@aol.com]
> Sent: Friday, August 11, 2000 6:50 AM
> To: Editorgary@aol.com
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: ID
>
>
>
> In a message dated 8/11/00 12:51:00 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> Editorgary@aol.com writes:
>
> << All the other folks who have an interest in the cars with Le Mans
> modifications may now weigh in with their opinions. >>
>
> Given the various ways that a stock BN2 (or even a BN1) might have received
> its modifications, it is no wonder that there is a lot of confusion on this
> point. Most signifignantly, as the market for M's continues to grow hotter,
>
> more and more cars will be represented as "the real deal" when in fact they
> are counterfeits. I ran into a fellow with more dollars than sense at a
> show last year who unashamedly admitted that he paid $45K for an M, only to
> find out that it was not a "real" M. I know of two very nice Le Mans
> modified 100's on the market right now that are being sold as M's for big
> $$.
> And I overheard someone waggishly observe that, given the rate at which
> M's
> are being "manufactured", pretty soon stock unconverted 100's will attain a
> special status!
>
> When I bought my car it was advertised as a "100 M Le Mans", but the seller
> quickly informed me that he bought the car from the original owner and that
> it had received a Le Mans kit in 1957. This was backed up by a box full of
> parts, including the original stock intake manifolds (carbs gone!),
> distributor, camshaft and attendant valve gear, etc. (Hmm--just in case the
>
> price on stock 100's soars I can just press out these hood louvers, bolt on
> a
> few of the old parts and fraudulently claim that it is NOT a lowly M!)
>
> Happy with what I have: a 100 w/Le Mans kit
> Michael Oritt, St. Leonard, MD.
>
From Healybj8 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2000 18:36:20 EDT
Subject: Safety Tip of the Week
--part1_e4.8f45e37.26c5d9e4_boundary
Always wear undershorts when lying down on the job.
Here's your weekly safety brief. Be careful what you wear (or don't
wear), when working under your vehicle...especially in public. From the
Sydney Morning Herald Australia comes this story of a central west couple
who drove their car to K-Mart only to have their car break down in the
parking lot. The man told his wife to carry on with the shopping while he
fixed the car. The wife returned later to see a small group of people near
the car.
On closer inspection she saw a pair of male legs protruding from under the
chassis. Although the man was in shorts, his lack of underpants turned
private parts into glaringly public ones. Unable to stand the embarrassment
she dutifully stepped forward and tucked everything back into place. On
regaining her feet, she looked across the hood and found herself staring at
her husband who was standing idly by. The mechanic, however, had to have
three stitches in his head.
--part1_e4.8f45e37.26c5d9e4_boundary
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From: "Wallace, Timothy A." <TAWALLA@MKG.com>
To: "'healybj8@aol.com'" <healybj8@aol.com>
Subject: FW: Safety Tip of the Week
Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2000 13:27:04 -0500
MIME-Version: 1.0
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charset="iso-8859-1"
Always wear undershorts when lying down on the job.
Here's your weekly safety brief. Be careful what you wear (or don't
wear), when working under your vehicle...especially in public. From the
Sydney Morning Herald Australia comes this story of a central west couple
who drove their car to K-Mart only to have their car break down in the
parking lot. The man told his wife to carry on with the shopping while he
fixed the car. The wife returned later to see a small group of people near
the
car.
On closer inspection she saw a pair of male legs protruding from under the
chassis. Although the man was in shorts, his lack of underpants turned
private parts into glaringly public ones. Unable to stand the embarrassment
she dutifully stepped forward and tucked everything back into place. On
regaining her feet, she looked across the hood and found herself staring at
her husband who was standing idly by. The mechanic, however, had to have
three stitches in his head.
--part1_e4.8f45e37.26c5d9e4_boundary--
From Csooch1 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2000 19:15:37 EDT
Subject: Re: Rear wheel bearings
In a message dated 8/11/00 12:35:46 PM Central Daylight Time,
jbumpus@home.com writes:
<< Did anyone ever find a rear bearing replacement Number for a BJ8 from
an existing manufacture Thanks again Bumpy
>>
I can't remember the number, but while I had my rear axle apart I took the
bearing to my local auto parts guy. He referenced the number to a Timken
bearing, but the price was $95 EACH! Mine were not bad in the first place so
I did not replace them.
The original type can be had for less from several Healey parts suppliers.
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
XJ6
From Peter Brauen <pbrauen at telepak.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2000 19:43:37 -0500
Subject: Re: ID
Hi All,
Once again the greed of a few has corrupted an otherwise enjoyable
hobby. If I were buying an 'M' (we're talking BN2 factory cars only) the
first thing I would do is find out if there is a Heritage certificate for
the car. Then see if that number is currently, or ever has been, in the 'M'
registry. Also ask to see any previous paperwork on the car. i.e. Can that
car be traced back a number of years with that number? If not, why not? If
there is a license plate on the car, check with the state that issued it to
see if the chassis number correlates (people have been caught this way).
Remember that any of the features of the 'M' can (and have been) faked.
Carefully check the chassis tag; if it is a reproduction, I would be dubious
without the original. Then, and only then, would I begin to take bonnet,
carbs, braces (bent or otherwise), cockpit mouldings, badges, etc. into
consideration as supporting evidence, bearing in mind that many of these
items may have been changed for reasons that have nothing to do with fraud.
Now, if the car is a BN1, watch out! Good luck----Peter
> << All the other folks who have an interest in the cars with Le Mans
> modifications may now weigh in with their opinions. >>
>
> Given the various ways that a stock BN2 (or even a BN1) might have
received
> its modifications, it is no wonder that there is a lot of confusion on
this
> point. Most signifignantly, as the market for M's continues to grow
hotter,
>
> more and more cars will be represented as "the real deal" when in fact
they
> are counterfeits. I ran into a fellow with more dollars than sense
at a
> show last year who unashamedly admitted that he paid $45K for an M,
only to
> find out that it was not a "real" M. I know of two very nice Le Mans
> modified 100's on the market right now that are being sold as M's for
big
> $$.
> And I overheard someone waggishly observe that, given the rate at
which
> M's
> are being "manufactured", pretty soon stock unconverted 100's will
attain a
> special status!
>
> When I bought my car it was advertised as a "100 M Le Mans", but the
seller
> quickly informed me that he bought the car from the original owner and
that
> it had received a Le Mans kit in 1957. This was backed up by a box
full of
> parts, including the original stock intake manifolds (carbs gone!),
> distributor, camshaft and attendant valve gear, etc. (Hmm--just in
case the
>
> price on stock 100's soars I can just press out these hood louvers,
bolt on
> a
> few of the old parts and fraudulently claim that it is NOT a lowly M!)
>
> Happy with what I have: a 100 w/Le Mans kit
> Michael Oritt, St. Leonard, MD.
>
From "Ron Schonscheck" <schonny at y2consult.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2000 11:43:25 -0600
Subject: id
Many thanks to all who shared their information regarding positive id of
a 100M. This will allow a much more intelligent decision making process on
the vehicle in question. Again thanks to the list members who responded.
From Bill Holt <lbcholt at one.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2000 22:43:43 -0400
Subject: 1955 100-4 for sale
I saw this car on ebay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=403818224
I am curious as to why this car has had NO bids. I believe this is the
second time it has been auctioned on ebay. Is there something "wrong" with
this particular vintage of Healey such that it is undesirable? Or is there
just something undesirable about this car?
I have no vested interest in this car or the sale whatsoever. Again, I am
just curious for future reference. I'd appreciate your comments.
Bill Holt
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 00:07:11 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Bad Tires
Mike
I'll try not to think of this Freeper rant the next time you have a Healey
problem.
I wonder if Mike would grace the rest of us with his line of work so we could
judge his competance to launch this kind of a personal attack.
I'm guessing he owns a chain of laundromats or nursing homes.
DickB
---- you wrote:
>
> To answer your question --- in the good old USA an old woman was
> awarded $millions after she spilled a hot MacDonald's coffee in
> her lap. The US legal system is rife with contingency law suits
> and has no "loser pay" provisions -(in Germany you have to post a
> bond when filing a legal claim). America also has too many lawyers
> (on a per capita basis 10 times as many as in Japan- and the
> reverse in engineers). My guess is more than 50% of each of the 3
> branches of US government is populated by lawyers - by historic
> definition truly an oligarchy! And over time Congressional
> authority is being handed over to the Supreme Court. The Trial
> Lawyers association is said to be one of the largest contributors
> to the Presidential race.
>
> The good news is that the balance of power in product liability
> is biased to the consumer more than in most other countries,
> although this is now being challenged at the legislative level.
> Clinton, a trial lawyer himself, has vetoed the proposed reforms.
>
> The bad news is whole industries (ie General Aviation aircraft)
> are sometimes drummed out of business. The bad news is everything
> gets inflamed on TV, by the same crowd that staged 'burning GM
> trucks'. The bad news is we get holier than thou DickB giving us
> one sided diatribe (according to DickB everybody in Firestone
> and/or Ford is a JERK and EVERY tire now built by Firestone MUST
> be defective). There's many sides to this story and I bet you a
> legal donut DickB did not send Daniel Sherman's 'other' reasonable
> view on the tire recall to his very long fan-email copy list.
>
> Hey, Dick, I would guess your emotional/legal confused state of
> mind doesn't stop you from using Tylenol - remember the recall?
> Hey, Dick, there are lot's of other product liability issues out
> there killing people everyday. Why aren't you on your soapbox with
> us more often? Is a tire death victim somehow more relevant?
>
> Hey, Dick, maybe please tell us what personal bee is really up
> your bonnet on this particular issue? I would have loved to see
> you blocking my driveway to save my family from a horrible death,
> but alas, I only have Goodyears on my F150.
>
> But wait a minute, now that I remember, a year ago there was a
> Ford recall on retightening the wheel lug nuts!
>
> Mike L.
> 60A,67E,59Bug
>
> l
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Helga & Martin Heim <hm.heim@t-online.de>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: August 11, 2000 6:37 AM
> Subject: Bad Tires
>
>
> >
> > Hi all,
> >
> > me over here in Germany I wonder about all that bad tires /
> tread separation
> > stuff. As you may know we still have the possibility to drive on
> the
> > Autobahn and some other roads as fast as we like. I usually
> drive my Audi A4
> > between 90 - 120 mph when being on the road (without speed
> limits) I now
> > drive 20 years and NEVER EVER haven't had or heard from friends
> about tires
> > with tread separation or anything similar. How come ?
> > Are the tire manufacturers shipping their second class tires to
> countries
> > where there are speed limits ? Or how come you Americans talk
> about bad
> > tires as if you have failures ever couple of weeks - or just
> with
> > Firestones. <g>
> > Now offense intended just wondering
> >
> > Best Regards
> >
> > Martin / Germany
> > (proud of having bought yesterday a Audi A3 which will do 140
> mph if I like
> > to. Sorry could not resist !)
> >
> >
>
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej at mossmotors.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2000 22:06:33 -0700
Subject: RE: 1955 100-4 for sale
The no-bids thing is a bit odd, I must admit, from the photos it seems a
nice car and not to badly misused. I would think that somebody would at
least bid on the thing. The price doesn't seem out of line for a running
driving 100-4, but what do I know.
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Holt
To: healeylist
Sent: 8/11/00 7:43 PM
Subject: 1955 100-4 for sale
I saw this car on ebay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=403818
224
I am curious as to why this car has had NO bids. I believe this is the
second time it has been auctioned on ebay. Is there something "wrong"
with
this particular vintage of Healey such that it is undesirable? Or is
there
just something undesirable about this car?
I have no vested interest in this car or the sale whatsoever. Again, I
am
just curious for future reference. I'd appreciate your comments.
Bill Holt
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2000 22:19:36 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: 1955 100-4 for sale
Maybe because it takes so (*&^ long to load the
pictures.
--- Bill Holt <lbcholt@one.net> wrote:
>
> I saw this car on ebay.
>
>
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=403818224
>
>
> I am curious as to why this car has had NO bids. I
> believe this is the
> second time it has been auctioned on ebay. Is there
> something "wrong" with
> this particular vintage of Healey such that it is
> undesirable? Or is there
> just something undesirable about this car?
>
> I have no vested interest in this car or the sale
> whatsoever. Again, I am
> just curious for future reference. I'd appreciate
> your comments.
>
> Bill Holt
__________________________________________________
Yahoo! Mail – Free email you can access from anywhere!
http://mail.yahoo.com/
From "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos at email.msn.com>
Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 06:35:59 -0600
Subject: Re: Bad Tires
Dick, Take the tire recall crap to another list, let's stick with Healeys
unless you want to start a steering column recall......................Henry
Morrison (Hank's Martinizing)
----- Original Message -----
From: <dickb@cheerful.com>
To: Michael Lupynec <mlupynec@globalserve.net>; austin healey list
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 11, 2000 10:07 PM
Subject: Re: Bad Tires
>
> Mike
>
> I'll try not to think of this Freeper rant the next time you have a Healey
problem.
>
> I wonder if Mike would grace the rest of us with his line of work so we
could judge his competance to launch this kind of a personal attack.
>
> I'm guessing he owns a chain of laundromats or nursing homes.
>
> DickB
>
>
>
> ---- you wrote:
> >
> > To answer your question --- in the good old USA an old woman was
> > awarded $millions after she spilled a hot MacDonald's coffee in
> > her lap. The US legal system is rife with contingency law suits
> > and has no "loser pay" provisions -(in Germany you have to post a
> > bond when filing a legal claim). America also has too many lawyers
> > (on a per capita basis 10 times as many as in Japan- and the
> > reverse in engineers). My guess is more than 50% of each of the 3
> > branches of US government is populated by lawyers - by historic
> > definition truly an oligarchy! And over time Congressional
> > authority is being handed over to the Supreme Court. The Trial
> > Lawyers association is said to be one of the largest contributors
> > to the Presidential race.
> >
> > The good news is that the balance of power in product liability
> > is biased to the consumer more than in most other countries,
> > although this is now being challenged at the legislative level.
> > Clinton, a trial lawyer himself, has vetoed the proposed reforms.
> >
> > The bad news is whole industries (ie General Aviation aircraft)
> > are sometimes drummed out of business. The bad news is everything
> > gets inflamed on TV, by the same crowd that staged 'burning GM
> > trucks'. The bad news is we get holier than thou DickB giving us
> > one sided diatribe (according to DickB everybody in Firestone
> > and/or Ford is a JERK and EVERY tire now built by Firestone MUST
> > be defective). There's many sides to this story and I bet you a
> > legal donut DickB did not send Daniel Sherman's 'other' reasonable
> > view on the tire recall to his very long fan-email copy list.
> >
> > Hey, Dick, I would guess your emotional/legal confused state of
> > mind doesn't stop you from using Tylenol - remember the recall?
> > Hey, Dick, there are lot's of other product liability issues out
> > there killing people everyday. Why aren't you on your soapbox with
> > us more often? Is a tire death victim somehow more relevant?
> >
> > Hey, Dick, maybe please tell us what personal bee is really up
> > your bonnet on this particular issue? I would have loved to see
> > you blocking my driveway to save my family from a horrible death,
> > but alas, I only have Goodyears on my F150.
> >
> > But wait a minute, now that I remember, a year ago there was a
> > Ford recall on retightening the wheel lug nuts!
> >
> > Mike L.
> > 60A,67E,59Bug
> >
> > l
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Helga & Martin Heim <hm.heim@t-online.de>
> > To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: August 11, 2000 6:37 AM
> > Subject: Bad Tires
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Hi all,
> > >
> > > me over here in Germany I wonder about all that bad tires /
> > tread separation
> > > stuff. As you may know we still have the possibility to drive on
> > the
> > > Autobahn and some other roads as fast as we like. I usually
> > drive my Audi A4
> > > between 90 - 120 mph when being on the road (without speed
> > limits) I now
> > > drive 20 years and NEVER EVER haven't had or heard from friends
> > about tires
> > > with tread separation or anything similar. How come ?
> > > Are the tire manufacturers shipping their second class tires to
> > countries
> > > where there are speed limits ? Or how come you Americans talk
> > about bad
> > > tires as if you have failures ever couple of weeks - or just
> > with
> > > Firestones. <g>
> > > Now offense intended just wondering
> > >
> > > Best Regards
> > >
> > > Martin / Germany
> > > (proud of having bought yesterday a Audi A3 which will do 140
> > mph if I like
> > > to. Sorry could not resist !)
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
>
From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 08:29:53 -0400
Subject: Re: 1955 100-4 for sale
I would guess that the problem is that the car is not easily available for
viewing.
I offered to look at it for a member of this list since Malvern, NY is only
about
35-45 minutes from where I live on Long Island. It was "in the shop" both
times that
I called the owner and "the shop" was in Inwood which is south of JFK
Airport, considerably
further from where I live. I tried contacting the shop, but he was,
apparently, not open
on weekends.
Then I found out that the car is "in storage" in the Inwood area. When the
prospective buyer
suggested that the seller might meet me half way by bringing the car out to
Malvern, we
learned that the car is not currently registered.
The owner told me that he has a number of old cars (collector?, dealer?) and
that he is
interested in selling or trading this one.
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1963 BJ7
1980 MGB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Holt" <lbcholt@one.net>
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 11, 2000 10:43 PM
Subject: 1955 100-4 for sale
>
> I saw this car on ebay.
>
>
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=403818224
>
> I am curious as to why this car has had NO bids. I believe this is the
> second time it has been auctioned on ebay. Is there something "wrong"
with
> this particular vintage of Healey such that it is undesirable? Or is
there
> just something undesirable about this car?
>
> I have no vested interest in this car or the sale whatsoever. Again, I am
> just curious for future reference. I'd appreciate your comments.
>
> Bill Holt
>
From "John Rowe" <jarowe at connect.comdek.net.au>
Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 21:35:04 +0800
Subject: Re: 1955 100-4 for sale
Not good marketing. No photo, little info. What is there to whet the
interest?
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
BT7 in resto
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Holt <lbcholt@one.net>
To: healeylist <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 12, 2000 10:43 AM
Subject: 1955 100-4 for sale
>
> I saw this car on ebay.
>
>
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=403818224
>
> I am curious as to why this car has had NO bids. I believe this is the
> second time it has been auctioned on ebay. Is there something "wrong"
with
> this particular vintage of Healey such that it is undesirable? Or is
there
> just something undesirable about this car?
>
> I have no vested interest in this car or the sale whatsoever. Again, I am
> just curious for future reference. I'd appreciate your comments.
>
> Bill Holt
>
From "Ron Schonscheck" <schonny at y2consult.com>
Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 01:00:53 -0600
Subject: Re: Bad Tires
I'll second that
----- Original Message -----
From: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@email.msn.com>
To: <dickb@cheerful.com>; "Michael Lupynec" <mlupynec@globalserve.net>;
"austin healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 12, 2000 6:35 AM
Subject: Re: Bad Tires
>
> Dick, Take the tire recall crap to another list, let's stick with Healeys
> unless you want to start a steering column
recall......................Henry
> Morrison (Hank's Martinizing)
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <dickb@cheerful.com>
> To: Michael Lupynec <mlupynec@globalserve.net>; austin healey list
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, August 11, 2000 10:07 PM
> Subject: Re: Bad Tires
>
>
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > I'll try not to think of this Freeper rant the next time you have a
Healey
> problem.
> >
> > I wonder if Mike would grace the rest of us with his line of work so we
> could judge his competance to launch this kind of a personal attack.
> >
> > I'm guessing he owns a chain of laundromats or nursing homes.
> >
> > DickB
> >
> >
> >
> > ---- you wrote:
> > >
> > > To answer your question --- in the good old USA an old woman was
> > > awarded $millions after she spilled a hot MacDonald's coffee in
> > > her lap. The US legal system is rife with contingency law suits
> > > and has no "loser pay" provisions -(in Germany you have to post a
> > > bond when filing a legal claim). America also has too many lawyers
> > > (on a per capita basis 10 times as many as in Japan- and the
> > > reverse in engineers). My guess is more than 50% of each of the 3
> > > branches of US government is populated by lawyers - by historic
> > > definition truly an oligarchy! And over time Congressional
> > > authority is being handed over to the Supreme Court. The Trial
> > > Lawyers association is said to be one of the largest contributors
> > > to the Presidential race.
> > >
> > > The good news is that the balance of power in product liability
> > > is biased to the consumer more than in most other countries,
> > > although this is now being challenged at the legislative level.
> > > Clinton, a trial lawyer himself, has vetoed the proposed reforms.
> > >
> > > The bad news is whole industries (ie General Aviation aircraft)
> > > are sometimes drummed out of business. The bad news is everything
> > > gets inflamed on TV, by the same crowd that staged 'burning GM
> > > trucks'. The bad news is we get holier than thou DickB giving us
> > > one sided diatribe (according to DickB everybody in Firestone
> > > and/or Ford is a JERK and EVERY tire now built by Firestone MUST
> > > be defective). There's many sides to this story and I bet you a
> > > legal donut DickB did not send Daniel Sherman's 'other' reasonable
> > > view on the tire recall to his very long fan-email copy list.
> > >
> > > Hey, Dick, I would guess your emotional/legal confused state of
> > > mind doesn't stop you from using Tylenol - remember the recall?
> > > Hey, Dick, there are lot's of other product liability issues out
> > > there killing people everyday. Why aren't you on your soapbox with
> > > us more often? Is a tire death victim somehow more relevant?
> > >
> > > Hey, Dick, maybe please tell us what personal bee is really up
> > > your bonnet on this particular issue? I would have loved to see
> > > you blocking my driveway to save my family from a horrible death,
> > > but alas, I only have Goodyears on my F150.
> > >
> > > But wait a minute, now that I remember, a year ago there was a
> > > Ford recall on retightening the wheel lug nuts!
> > >
> > > Mike L.
> > > 60A,67E,59Bug
> > >
> > > l
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: Helga & Martin Heim <hm.heim@t-online.de>
> > > To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > Sent: August 11, 2000 6:37 AM
> > > Subject: Bad Tires
> > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > > Hi all,
> > > >
> > > > me over here in Germany I wonder about all that bad tires /
> > > tread separation
> > > > stuff. As you may know we still have the possibility to drive on
> > > the
> > > > Autobahn and some other roads as fast as we like. I usually
> > > drive my Audi A4
> > > > between 90 - 120 mph when being on the road (without speed
> > > limits) I now
> > > > drive 20 years and NEVER EVER haven't had or heard from friends
> > > about tires
> > > > with tread separation or anything similar. How come ?
> > > > Are the tire manufacturers shipping their second class tires to
> > > countries
> > > > where there are speed limits ? Or how come you Americans talk
> > > about bad
> > > > tires as if you have failures ever couple of weeks - or just
> > > with
> > > > Firestones. <g>
> > > > Now offense intended just wondering
> > > >
> > > > Best Regards
> > > >
> > > > Martin / Germany
> > > > (proud of having bought yesterday a Audi A3 which will do 140
> > > mph if I like
> > > > to. Sorry could not resist !)
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > ----------------------------------------------------------------
> >
>
>
>
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 10:32:52 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: RE: Firestone Tires
Mr. Moyer
How in the world could you call the Florida family - who I'm sure you saw on TV
- with their broken bodies and their overturned and crushed Explorer with it's
obviously shredded tires, who have filed suit, --with some ancient anecdote
about a drunken pilot who sued Cessna for failure to install a "drunk pilot
preventer", is beyond my comprehension.
If you think all product liability litigation is "silly", I'm sorry for you and
I sure hope I never find myself behind you on the Interstate.
DickB
---- you wrote:
>
>
>
>
> Nor are consumers from paying the ultimate cost of of silly litigation such
> as the family of a drunk who crashed a Cessna 150 that sued the aircraft
> maker for not devising a way to prevent drunks from operating the air craft
> fifteen years earlier when that plane was built!
>
>
> <As a participant in such litigation (just call me Paladin) I can tell you
> that when a jury and a debate team all-star attorney get together anything
> is possible. I've been in a case where a man shot his grandmother in the
> back with a shotgun, paralyzing her and they sued the gun manufacturer, five
> years later, for not having a larger "red dot" to indicate its readiness to
> fire. He performed this triumph of firearms safety from the outside of
> their trailer into the living room (no window involved) where she was
> sitting in a rocking chair holding his daughter. The firearms manufacturer
> was found liable and had to pay large bucks. Like millions.
>
> The lesson is that Firestone -will- be hurt by this, deservedly or no,
> especially if Barry Scheck (sp?) gets involved.
>
> Bill Moyer, BJ7
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 09:30:07 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: 100M... again
Thanks to Bob Spidell for his recommendation to join Bill Meade's "Worldwide
100M Le Mans Registry." That's excellent advice.
The registry is listed on page 113 of the 2000 Austin-Healey Resource Book,
published by the Austin-Healey Club USA
http://www.healey.org
I'll even paste in the appropriate Resource Book extract here, just in case
there are any hold-outs reading this who still have not joined the club, and
received their very own Resource Book, by investing the measly $35 dues for
the decades of experience and untold thousands of dollars of experience that
can be yours by joining... and don't forget the free trial membership deal
that we're currently running. Anyway:
-------
WORLDWIDE 100M LE MANS REGISTRY
Bill Meade
533 Cedar Drive
Watsonville CA 95076
(831) 722-3253 (phone and fax)
For owners of 100M models and series BN1 and BN2 cars fitted with the "Le
Mans Engine Modification Kit." Identification Guide, Membership Directory,
certificate, dash plaque, grille badge and jacket patch.
-------
Note that Bill has prepared an Identification Guide! It is excellent and no
one should consider the purchase of a 100M without it. It just makes no
sense to spend 30 or 40 G's on a purported 100M without consulting the
Identification Guide. The Guide is illustrated and was developed with a lot
of input and review by a lot of very knowledgable people. It's the best
reference of its kind.
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
Owner of a real, live, bona fide, no-doubt-about-it 100M (purchased from the
original owner, no less); and also a plain BN2 with the Le Mans Engine
Modification Kit installed much later by its enthusiastic owner :-)
On Fri, 11 Aug 2000 11:43:25 -0600, Ron Schonscheck wrote:
>
> Many thanks to all who shared their information regarding positive id
of
> a 100M. This will allow a much more intelligent decision making process
on
> the vehicle in question. Again thanks to the list members who responded.
>
>
_______________________________________________________
Say Bye to Slow Internet!
http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html
From M Brouillette <mbrouill at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 13:02:45 -0400
Subject: Re: 1955 100-4 for sale
This car has been up for auction at least 8 times I can remember.
Interesting thing is not always the same Ebay seller, but always Malvern,
LI, NY.
At 10:43 PM 8/11/00 -0400, Bill Holt wrote:
>
>I saw this car on ebay.
>
>
>http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=403818224
>
>I am curious as to why this car has had NO bids. I believe this is the
>second time it has been auctioned on ebay. Is there something "wrong" with
>this particular vintage of Healey such that it is undesirable? Or is there
>just something undesirable about this car?
>
>I have no vested interest in this car or the sale whatsoever. Again, I am
>just curious for future reference. I'd appreciate your comments.
>
>Bill Holt
>
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 13:16:27 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Bad Tires
If you don't like to read the "crap" as you call it, why don't you just hit the
delete key?
I sure don't care what you put on your Dry Cleaners List.
DickB
---- you wrote:
> Dick, Take the tire recall crap to another list, let's stick with Healeys
> unless you want to start a steering column recall......................Henry
> Morrison (Hank's Martinizing)
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <dickb@cheerful.com>
> To: Michael Lupynec <mlupynec@globalserve.net>; austin healey list
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, August 11, 2000 10:07 PM
> Subject: Re: Bad Tires
>
>
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > I'll try not to think of this Freeper rant the next time you have a Healey
> problem.
> >
> > I wonder if Mike would grace the rest of us with his line of work so we
> could judge his competance to launch this kind of a personal attack.
> >
> > I'm guessing he owns a chain of laundromats or nursing homes.
> >
> > DickB
> >
> >
> >
> > ---- you wrote:
> > >
> > > To answer your question --- in the good old USA an old woman was
> > > awarded $millions after she spilled a hot MacDonald's coffee in
> > > her lap. The US legal system is rife with contingency law suits
> > > and has no "loser pay" provisions -(in Germany you have to post a
> > > bond when filing a legal claim). America also has too many lawyers
> > > (on a per capita basis 10 times as many as in Japan- and the
> > > reverse in engineers). My guess is more than 50% of each of the 3
> > > branches of US government is populated by lawyers - by historic
> > > definition truly an oligarchy! And over time Congressional
> > > authority is being handed over to the Supreme Court. The Trial
> > > Lawyers association is said to be one of the largest contributors
> > > to the Presidential race.
> > >
> > > The good news is that the balance of power in product liability
> > > is biased to the consumer more than in most other countries,
> > > although this is now being challenged at the legislative level.
> > > Clinton, a trial lawyer himself, has vetoed the proposed reforms.
> > >
> > > The bad news is whole industries (ie General Aviation aircraft)
> > > are sometimes drummed out of business. The bad news is everything
> > > gets inflamed on TV, by the same crowd that staged 'burning GM
> > > trucks'. The bad news is we get holier than thou DickB giving us
> > > one sided diatribe (according to DickB everybody in Firestone
> > > and/or Ford is a JERK and EVERY tire now built by Firestone MUST
> > > be defective). There's many sides to this story and I bet you a
> > > legal donut DickB did not send Daniel Sherman's 'other' reasonable
> > > view on the tire recall to his very long fan-email copy list.
> > >
> > > Hey, Dick, I would guess your emotional/legal confused state of
> > > mind doesn't stop you from using Tylenol - remember the recall?
> > > Hey, Dick, there are lot's of other product liability issues out
> > > there killing people everyday. Why aren't you on your soapbox with
> > > us more often? Is a tire death victim somehow more relevant?
> > >
> > > Hey, Dick, maybe please tell us what personal bee is really up
> > > your bonnet on this particular issue? I would have loved to see
> > > you blocking my driveway to save my family from a horrible death,
> > > but alas, I only have Goodyears on my F150.
> > >
> > > But wait a minute, now that I remember, a year ago there was a
> > > Ford recall on retightening the wheel lug nuts!
> > >
> > > Mike L.
> > > 60A,67E,59Bug
> > >
> > > l
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: Helga & Martin Heim <hm.heim@t-online.de>
> > > To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > Sent: August 11, 2000 6:37 AM
> > > Subject: Bad Tires
> > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > > Hi all,
> > > >
> > > > me over here in Germany I wonder about all that bad tires /
> > > tread separation
> > > > stuff. As you may know we still have the possibility to drive on
> > > the
> > > > Autobahn and some other roads as fast as we like. I usually
> > > drive my Audi A4
> > > > between 90 - 120 mph when being on the road (without speed
> > > limits) I now
> > > > drive 20 years and NEVER EVER haven't had or heard from friends
> > > about tires
> > > > with tread separation or anything similar. How come ?
> > > > Are the tire manufacturers shipping their second class tires to
> > > countries
> > > > where there are speed limits ? Or how come you Americans talk
> > > about bad
> > > > tires as if you have failures ever couple of weeks - or just
> > > with
> > > > Firestones. <g>
> > > > Now offense intended just wondering
> > > >
> > > > Best Regards
> > > >
> > > > Martin / Germany
> > > > (proud of having bought yesterday a Audi A3 which will do 140
> > > mph if I like
> > > > to. Sorry could not resist !)
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > ----------------------------------------------------------------
> >
>
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 13:25:42 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Bad Tires
And consider yourself cc'd with my response to the dry Cleaner
DickB
---- you wrote:
> I'll second that
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@email.msn.com>
> To: <dickb@cheerful.com>; "Michael Lupynec" <mlupynec@globalserve.net>;
> "austin healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, August 12, 2000 6:35 AM
> Subject: Re: Bad Tires
>
>
> >
> > Dick, Take the tire recall crap to another list, let's stick with Healeys
> > unless you want to start a steering column
> recall......................Henry
> > Morrison (Hank's Martinizing)
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <dickb@cheerful.com>
> > To: Michael Lupynec <mlupynec@globalserve.net>; austin healey list
> > <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Friday, August 11, 2000 10:07 PM
> > Subject: Re: Bad Tires
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Mike
> > >
> > > I'll try not to think of this Freeper rant the next time you have a
> Healey
> > problem.
> > >
> > > I wonder if Mike would grace the rest of us with his line of work so we
> > could judge his competance to launch this kind of a personal attack.
> > >
> > > I'm guessing he owns a chain of laundromats or nursing homes.
> > >
> > > DickB
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ---- you wrote:
> > > >
> > > > To answer your question --- in the good old USA an old woman was
> > > > awarded $millions after she spilled a hot MacDonald's coffee in
> > > > her lap. The US legal system is rife with contingency law suits
> > > > and has no "loser pay" provisions -(in Germany you have to post a
> > > > bond when filing a legal claim). America also has too many lawyers
> > > > (on a per capita basis 10 times as many as in Japan- and the
> > > > reverse in engineers). My guess is more than 50% of each of the 3
> > > > branches of US government is populated by lawyers - by historic
> > > > definition truly an oligarchy! And over time Congressional
> > > > authority is being handed over to the Supreme Court. The Trial
> > > > Lawyers association is said to be one of the largest contributors
> > > > to the Presidential race.
> > > >
> > > > The good news is that the balance of power in product liability
> > > > is biased to the consumer more than in most other countries,
> > > > although this is now being challenged at the legislative level.
> > > > Clinton, a trial lawyer himself, has vetoed the proposed reforms.
> > > >
> > > > The bad news is whole industries (ie General Aviation aircraft)
> > > > are sometimes drummed out of business. The bad news is everything
> > > > gets inflamed on TV, by the same crowd that staged 'burning GM
> > > > trucks'. The bad news is we get holier than thou DickB giving us
> > > > one sided diatribe (according to DickB everybody in Firestone
> > > > and/or Ford is a JERK and EVERY tire now built by Firestone MUST
> > > > be defective). There's many sides to this story and I bet you a
> > > > legal donut DickB did not send Daniel Sherman's 'other' reasonable
> > > > view on the tire recall to his very long fan-email copy list.
> > > >
> > > > Hey, Dick, I would guess your emotional/legal confused state of
> > > > mind doesn't stop you from using Tylenol - remember the recall?
> > > > Hey, Dick, there are lot's of other product liability issues out
> > > > there killing people everyday. Why aren't you on your soapbox with
> > > > us more often? Is a tire death victim somehow more relevant?
> > > >
> > > > Hey, Dick, maybe please tell us what personal bee is really up
> > > > your bonnet on this particular issue? I would have loved to see
> > > > you blocking my driveway to save my family from a horrible death,
> > > > but alas, I only have Goodyears on my F150.
> > > >
> > > > But wait a minute, now that I remember, a year ago there was a
> > > > Ford recall on retightening the wheel lug nuts!
> > > >
> > > > Mike L.
> > > > 60A,67E,59Bug
> > > >
> > > > l
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: Helga & Martin Heim <hm.heim@t-online.de>
> > > > To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > > Sent: August 11, 2000 6:37 AM
> > > > Subject: Bad Tires
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > Hi all,
> > > > >
> > > > > me over here in Germany I wonder about all that bad tires /
> > > > tread separation
> > > > > stuff. As you may know we still have the possibility to drive on
> > > > the
> > > > > Autobahn and some other roads as fast as we like. I usually
> > > > drive my Audi A4
> > > > > between 90 - 120 mph when being on the road (without speed
> > > > limits) I now
> > > > > drive 20 years and NEVER EVER haven't had or heard from friends
> > > > about tires
> > > > > with tread separation or anything similar. How come ?
> > > > > Are the tire manufacturers shipping their second class tires to
> > > > countries
> > > > > where there are speed limits ? Or how come you Americans talk
> > > > about bad
> > > > > tires as if you have failures ever couple of weeks - or just
> > > > with
> > > > > Firestones. <g>
> > > > > Now offense intended just wondering
> > > > >
> > > > > Best Regards
> > > > >
> > > > > Martin / Germany
> > > > > (proud of having bought yesterday a Audi A3 which will do 140
> > > > mph if I like
> > > > > to. Sorry could not resist !)
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ----------------------------------------------------------------
> > >
> >
> >
> >
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 13:30:07 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Firestone Tires
This is car stuff.
Check your brain for gum wrappers
---- you wrote:
> Dick, please take your personal crap off the list. I'm here to hear about
> Healeys, and car stuff, not your persistant pissing.
>
> Tim
>
> In a message dated 08/12/2000 10:42:06 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> dickb@cheerful.com writes:
>
> << Mr. Moyer
>
> How in the world could you call the Florida family - who I'm sure you saw on
> TV - with their broken bodies and their overturned and crushed Explorer with
> it's obviously shredded tires, who have filed suit, --with some ancient
> anecdote about a drunken pilot who sued Cessna for failure to install a
> "drunk pilot preventer", is beyond my comprehension.
>
> If you think all product liability litigation is "silly", I'm sorry for you
> and I sure hope I never find myself behind you on the Interstate.
>
> DickB >>
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 10:34:02 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: 1955 100-4 for sale
Hi Bill,
I'll take a crack at this. I regularly surf eBay (and other web sites)
myself looking at Healeys for sale, and, based on the low-res scans on the
eBay auction page, offer the following long-distance appraisal:
WHAT I SEE IN THE PHOTOS:
-- Wavy body panels, indicating extensive poor-quality bodywork.
-- Front bumper mounted crooked, splash pan missing, and incorrect side
lamps lenses, all probably indicating a significant front-end collision in
the past, and a slap-dab repair of same.
-- Rear bumper crooked, perhaps indicating a significant rear-end collision
in the past.
-- The engine compartment comes straight from the Black Hole of Calcutta
School of Automotive Maintenance. Note the evidence of an engine fire which
fried the one desirable part on the car: the Austin-Healey script rocker
cover. Note the caked-on grime and dirt, just about everywhere. Note the
peeling paint on the radiator (from the engine compartment fire, or from
overheating the coolant to 350 degrees... Centigrade -- YOU be the judge!).
Note the tape on the upper radiator hose. Note the hacked fan shroud (what
in the world...). Note the brake fluid reservoir cap, apparently opened and
tightened using vice grips with cheater bars attached. And that oil filler
cap -- is that a crushed and burned Budweiser can, or what?!?
-- Floor mats from a 1953 Kaiser. (Perhaps the car that he had the front-end
collision with? The Kaiser won, trust me.)
GENERAL COMMENTS:
-- This is at least the third time that this same car has been offered on
eBay. Who knows how many times it has been offered elsewhere? Good cars at
fair prices don't stay on the market as long as this one has, even if eBay
has been the only medium used.
-- Overall I'd say that about 8 of the 10 warning signs of a generally
trashed Healey are present. Cavaet Emptor...
-- And on top of all that, remember that cars look about 50 times better in
photos than they do in fact.
-- Therefore my overall assessment of this car -- using the Concours
Registry scale of Gold, Silver, and Bronze -- would be "Pot Metal."
-- Or, on the Austin-Healey Club USA's Buyer's Price Guide
(http://www.healey.org/buyers-price-guide.shtml) scale of 1-, 5-, 10- and
20-footers, I'd rate this car a half-miler.
-- Be afraid, be very afraid.
Cheers,
Reid
On Fri, 11 Aug 2000 22:43:43 -0400, Bill Holt wrote:
>
> I saw this car on ebay.
>
>
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=403818224
>
> I am curious as to why this car has had NO bids. I believe this is the
> second time it has been auctioned on ebay. Is there something "wrong"
with
> this particular vintage of Healey such that it is undesirable? Or is
there
> just something undesirable about this car?
>
> I have no vested interest in this car or the sale whatsoever. Again, I
am
> just curious for future reference. I'd appreciate your comments.
>
> Bill Holt
_______________________________________________________
Say Bye to Slow Internet!
http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html
From Csooch1 at aol.com
Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 15:43:47 EDT
Subject: Re: Firestone Tires
Does anyone on the list have Firestone tires on their Healey?
No - Then none of these emails pertain to this list...find the 8000 lb brick
with wheels list somewhere else.
Yes - Unfortunate, but now you have a reason to put on some Avon or Dunlop.
Let us move on,
Chris
From "Bruce Starke" <bstarke at redshift.bc.ca>
Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 13:47:59 -0600
Subject: Brake calipers
Another question for the knowledgeable list::
I need to get new brake calipers---will the BJ8 calipers bolt straight onto
an earlier car viz. my tricarb or do I have to get the correct ones? The
reason for this is that the BJ8 has bigger pads and better braking (I think)
and they are cheaper as well!
Thanks
BRUCE STARKE
Tricarb
From "Karlsson Magnus" <healey at telia.com>
Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 22:31:34 +0200
Subject: SV: Brake calipers
No they won´t. The mounting holes doesn´t line up.
You better go for metric Girling calipers that has holes which line up with the
early type bracket and uses the same pads and same piston diameter as BJ8
calipers. These are much cheaper than the BJ8 calipers. They were fitted to
early seventies European Ford Capri and Granada without ventilated discs. I
don´t know about availability in the US but they can be picked up for as little
as $10 each in scrapyards over here.
Magnus Karlsson
SWEDEN
----- Original Message -----
From: Bruce Starke <bstarke@redshift.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 12, 2000 9:47 PM
Subject: Brake calipers
>
> Another question for the knowledgeable list::
> I need to get new brake calipers---will the BJ8 calipers bolt straight onto
> an earlier car viz. my tricarb or do I have to get the correct ones? The
> reason for this is that the BJ8 has bigger pads and better braking (I think)
> and they are cheaper as well!
> Thanks
> BRUCE STARKE
> Tricarb
>
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 16:50:53 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: 1955 100-4 for sale
Nice eye Reid
---- you wrote:
>
> Hi Bill,
>
> I'll take a crack at this. I regularly surf eBay (and other web sites)
> myself looking at Healeys for sale, and, based on the low-res scans on the
> eBay auction page, offer the following long-distance appraisal:
>
> WHAT I SEE IN THE PHOTOS:
>
> -- Wavy body panels, indicating extensive poor-quality bodywork.
>
> -- Front bumper mounted crooked, splash pan missing, and incorrect side
> lamps lenses, all probably indicating a significant front-end collision in
> the past, and a slap-dab repair of same.
>
> -- Rear bumper crooked, perhaps indicating a significant rear-end collision
> in the past.
>
> -- The engine compartment comes straight from the Black Hole of Calcutta
> School of Automotive Maintenance. Note the evidence of an engine fire which
> fried the one desirable part on the car: the Austin-Healey script rocker
> cover. Note the caked-on grime and dirt, just about everywhere. Note the
> peeling paint on the radiator (from the engine compartment fire, or from
> overheating the coolant to 350 degrees... Centigrade -- YOU be the judge!).
> Note the tape on the upper radiator hose. Note the hacked fan shroud (what
> in the world...). Note the brake fluid reservoir cap, apparently opened and
> tightened using vice grips with cheater bars attached. And that oil filler
> cap -- is that a crushed and burned Budweiser can, or what?!?
>
> -- Floor mats from a 1953 Kaiser. (Perhaps the car that he had the front-end
> collision with? The Kaiser won, trust me.)
>
> GENERAL COMMENTS:
>
> -- This is at least the third time that this same car has been offered on
> eBay. Who knows how many times it has been offered elsewhere? Good cars at
> fair prices don't stay on the market as long as this one has, even if eBay
> has been the only medium used.
>
> -- Overall I'd say that about 8 of the 10 warning signs of a generally
> trashed Healey are present. Cavaet Emptor...
>
> -- And on top of all that, remember that cars look about 50 times better in
> photos than they do in fact.
>
> -- Therefore my overall assessment of this car -- using the Concours
> Registry scale of Gold, Silver, and Bronze -- would be "Pot Metal."
>
> -- Or, on the Austin-Healey Club USA's Buyer's Price Guide
> (http://www.healey.org/buyers-price-guide.shtml) scale of 1-, 5-, 10- and
> 20-footers, I'd rate this car a half-miler.
>
> -- Be afraid, be very afraid.
>
> Cheers,
> Reid
>
>
> On Fri, 11 Aug 2000 22:43:43 -0400, Bill Holt wrote:
>
> >
> > I saw this car on ebay.
> >
> >
> >
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=403818224
> >
> > I am curious as to why this car has had NO bids. I believe this is the
> > second time it has been auctioned on ebay. Is there something "wrong"
> with
> > this particular vintage of Healey such that it is undesirable? Or is
> there
> > just something undesirable about this car?
> >
> > I have no vested interest in this car or the sale whatsoever. Again, I
> am
> > just curious for future reference. I'd appreciate your comments.
> >
> > Bill Holt
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________________
> Say Bye to Slow Internet!
> http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From Alan F Cross <AlanX at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 21:59:15 +0100
Subject: Re: Firestone Tires
In message <79.82ceacd.26c702f3@aol.com>, Csooch1@aol.com writes
>
>Does anyone on the list have Firestone tires on their Healey?
>
>No - Then none of these emails pertain to this list...find the 8000 lb brick
>with wheels list somewhere else.
>
>Yes - Unfortunate, but now you have a reason to put on some Avon or Dunlop.
>
>Let us move on,
>Chris
Well, actually, I've *very recently* had five Firestone F560s installed.
Spoke to my supplier a couple of days ago (the excellent Motor Wheel
Services, in Langley, Slough, England, who at first hadn't heard of the
recall, but promptly phoned me back with the report that it didn't apply
to F560s - only to 4x4 tyres (are they specifically different, I ask
myself?).
If anyone finds a definitive and authoritative report on all Firestone
tyres (possible not from Bridgestone-Firestone), I'm sure there are many
of us on this list who'd like to see it.
Wanted to buy Dunlop SP20s, but we can't get them in the UK because they
don't have a Euro speed rating! Firestones were my third choice on spec,
but second on price. Regretting already!
Driving gently for the time being ...!
Alan F Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK
H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny"
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 15:21:19 -0500
Subject: Re: Firestone Tires
Hi Alan
Just out of curiosity what other tyres did you look at?
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
'65 BJ8
Alan F Cross wrote:
>
> In message <79.82ceacd.26c702f3@aol.com>, Csooch1@aol.com writes
> >
> >Does anyone on the list have Firestone tires on their Healey?
> >
> >No - Then none of these emails pertain to this list...find the 8000 lb brick
> >with wheels list somewhere else.
> >
> >Yes - Unfortunate, but now you have a reason to put on some Avon or Dunlop.
> >
> >Let us move on,
> >Chris
>
> Well, actually, I've *very recently* had five Firestone F560s installed.
> Spoke to my supplier a couple of days ago (the excellent Motor Wheel
> Services, in Langley, Slough, England, who at first hadn't heard of the
> recall, but promptly phoned me back with the report that it didn't apply
> to F560s - only to 4x4 tyres (are they specifically different, I ask
> myself?).
>
> If anyone finds a definitive and authoritative report on all Firestone
> tyres (possible not from Bridgestone-Firestone), I'm sure there are many
> of us on this list who'd like to see it.
>
> Wanted to buy Dunlop SP20s, but we can't get them in the UK because they
> don't have a Euro speed rating! Firestones were my third choice on spec,
> but second on price. Regretting already!
>
> Driving gently for the time being ...!
> Alan F Cross
> Wokingham, Berkshire, UK
> H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny"
From Bill Holt <lbcholt at one.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 17:26:51 -0400
Subject: Re: 1955 100-4 for sale
>-- Therefore my overall assessment of this car -- using the Concours
>Registry scale of Gold, Silver, and Bronze -- would be "Pot Metal."
>
>-- Or, on the Austin-Healey Club USA's Buyer's Price Guide
>(http://www.healey.org/buyers-price-guide.shtml) scale of 1-, 5-, 10- and
>20-footers, I'd rate this car a half-miler.
>
>-- Be afraid, be very afraid.
>
>Cheers,
>Reid
What a colorful "pan" job, Reid! Move over Roger Ebert. Even if you weren't
trying to be humorous, I thought these last few lines were priceless.
A "half-miler" . . . . I'll have to add that one to my daily vocabulary!
Caveat emptor indeed to the Healey list.
Bill Holt
From "Phil Nase" <pnase at enter.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 17:46:07 -0400
Subject: Moss Water Pump
I purchased a new water pump for my BN1 from Moss Motors. Where the
original pump has a lubrication point the new one is plugged. The only
access is top dead center however it seems that if I lube it there it will
only escape thru the impeller because I can see daylight thru the hole. Are
these permanantly lubed from the factory? Salesperson wasn't convincing,
although he said they were, he hedged a bit. Thanks for any assistance you
can provide.
While I had the generator and hoses out of the way I gave the head and valve
cover a repaint. Looking a lot better. (Used to be Chevy Red).
Hope to see a lot of you at the Austin Healey Sports and Touring Club
Encounter this week.
Phil Nase
55 BN1
From "Dan Dougherty Sr." <globalrc at mindspring.com>
Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 19:00:40 -0400
Subject: Sprite-MG Midget Shop Manual by Clymer
I'm looking for Clymer Shop Manual A205 "Sprite-MG Midget shop manual
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 17:07:35 -0700
Subject: Muroc on Speedvision
Just caught coverage of Muroc on Speedvision. Missed the beginning, but saw
a girl with a red sprite with a Vette engine in it. Then they had a few
minutes chatting with Keith Turk. Way to go Keith!
Bill Katz
SF Bay Area
'67 BJ8
'94 325is
http://www.handsonresearch.com/healey
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 21:27:16 EDT
Subject: DMH Memorial Grove Tour
Erika the Red and I Hope to see all of you in the SF Bay Area and Sacramento
Valley on the tour to the Donald M. Healey Memorial Redwood Grove at Big
Basin State Park tomorrow (Sunday). Bring a picnic lunch to eat as we honor
the Man and talk about his cars. Tour leaves at 10:30 a.m. from the Bruner's
Furniture parking lot at the intersection of Highway 17 and Hamilton Avenue
in San Jose. Sponsored by the Golden Gate Austin Healey Club. About a 1 and
1/2 hour drive to the DMH Memorial.
John
100-Six Erika the Red
From Healeyguy at aol.com
Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 22:07:00 EDT
Subject: Re: 1955 100-4 for sale
Reid, Bill et al
While Reid captured many of the seemingly bad points (didn't mention the six
cylinder rear bumper) that shows in the photos, the fact that the car is in
one piece, has a lot of the usual missing bits and apparently was a driver in
it's not to distant past would make me a least consider the car if I was in
the market for a BN1. What does the potential buyer expect to get for $8,300?
I'm sure we would all be elated to get it for $1,500 but is that realistic?
The AHCUSA Resource Book Buyer's Price Guide shows $17,500 for a "twenty
footer," described as the lower tier of drivers cars or decent drivers and
are significantly better than project cars. I have heard of a bunch of folks
buying project BN1 or 2 cars in the $10,000 range. So where does this car
fall in the big picture? Just curious.
As usual, I have no financial or other interest in the car we are discussing,
yadda, yadda, yadda.
Aloha
Perry
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 19:21:03 -0700
Subject: Re: DMH Memorial Grove Tour
At 06:27 PM 8/12/00 , you wrote:
>Erika the Red and I Hope to see all of you in the SF Bay Area and Sacramento
>Valley on the tour to the Donald M. Healey Memorial Redwood Grove at Big
>Basin State Park tomorrow (Sunday). Bring a picnic lunch to eat as we honor
>the Man and talk about his cars. Tour leaves at 10:30 a.m. from the Bruner's
>Furniture parking lot at the intersection of Highway 17 and Hamilton Avenue
>in San Jose. Sponsored by the Golden Gate Austin Healey Club. About a 1 and
>1/2 hour drive to the DMH Memorial.
>John
>100-Six Erika the Red
-----------------
I'll be catching up with the "train" at the Texaco in Los Gatos.
Bill Katz
SF Bay Area
'67 BJ8
'94 325is
http://www.handsonresearch.com/healey
From JXLmail at aol.com
Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 22:43:54 EDT
Subject: Re: Monterey Historics
Folks,
Looks like I got the final go-ahead for the trip. So if anyone see a guy with
a purple backpack and tripod, that's me with my 4x5, stop by and say hi.
Jim L.
56 BN2
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 20:28:31 -0700
Subject: Re: Monterey Historics
At 07:43 PM 8/12/00 , you wrote:
>Folks,
>Looks like I got the final go-ahead for the trip. So if anyone see a guy with
>a purple backpack and tripod, that's me with my 4x5, stop by and say hi.
>
>Jim L.
>
>56 BN2
--------------------
I'll be down that way on Friday for the Concorso Italiano at Quail Lodge,
and then may head over to the track for a while. I'll probably be packing
my ancient Canon A-1, unless I decide to go digital with the Coolpix 990
instead. (Instant gratification vs. more lens choices!) I don't stand out
in a crowd, but you will Jim with that 4x5<G>
Bill Katz
SF Bay Area
'67 BJ8
'94 325is
http://www.handsonresearch.com/healey
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2000 00:31:05 EDT
Subject: Monterey Historics at Laguna Seca on Friday
Erika the Red and I will be down at Laguna Seca to see Phillip Coombs race
his newly restored 100S. How many of you are going on Saturday? Let's all
plan on meeting in front of the McDonald's stand in the pit area at 10:00
a.m. say "hi" to each other and maybe pick out a good spot to all sit
together to enjoy the races and root for Phillip and the other Healeys
racing. I'm open to other suggestions, if some of you Laguna racing veterans
have a better idea.
Hope we get a good turnout.
John
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 21:30:01 -0700
Subject: The Fast & the Furious
Great flick on Speedvision, tons of great cars in the race scene, Allard's,
Jag XK's, Nash Healey's, a Westland I think, and more.
Bill Katz
SF Bay Area
'67 BJ8
'94 325is
http://www.handsonresearch.com/healey
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2000 01:33:12 EDT
Subject: Re: Brake calipers
NO they will not bolt on the spindles are different and the polt pattern
where the calipers ats different
They also use different rotors
There are kits available to rebuild your calipers
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>Br
itishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From Fred Hunter <fhunter at kcnet.com>
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2000 02:16:12 -0500
Subject: Names and History (long)
Regarding car 'names': August, 2000
The 'Naming of cars' thread has sort of run it's course now, so perhaps
this will be of interest (delete now if you're not into Healey history):
'Millie' is the first of the Special Test cars. She's been with me 33
years; Millie has some fairly heavy history behind her, but I'll confine
my comments here to that history
which is relevant to her name. You must understand that I didn't
name her...nor did any of her 4 previous owners...in fact, I'd owned her
about 15 years before I discovered that she even HAD a name. Here's a
bit of history concerning how one of her drivers came to name her.
Most of you are familiar with the big racing effort that the Donald
Healey
Motor Co. put on for 1955 Sebring. The very first batch of 'production'
100/S's made were sent over for their new owners to take possession AT
THE RACE. Six production 100/S's in all were sent, plus one Works car
for Stirling
Moss to drive. Millie wasn't part of the Sebring effort that year. The
production 'S's had teething problems, to be
expected in a brand new model, and the privateers received semi-factory
support in the form of Geoff Healey, Roger Menadue, Jim Cashmore, and
the team of mechanics on hand from Ship & Shore Motors of West Palm
Beach all chipping in to get the cars sorted out before the big race.
Notably, the Works car that Moss drove, OON-441, suffered none of these
problems--it was a fully sorted race car; besides, it was running
different equipment from the production cars.
All the cars were fixed in time, the race was run, and Moss came home
6th overall and first in class, followed by most of the privateer 'S's,
scattered throughout the finishing order.
After the race, Ed Bussey, the owner of Ship & Shore Motors, the Austin
Healey Distributor for the Southeastern U.S., approached Donald about
possibly acquiring a race car for his distributorship to campaign. As
Geoff tells the story years later, Donald said, "We've just the car for
you. We've got this old nail that we're refurbing right now that you
could have for a good price. We'll send it along when its finished."
>From all I can tell from my interviews with the participants, this
arrangement was considered by all concerned a sort of a 'payback' or
'thank you' from Donald to his good friend and distributor, Ed Bussey,
for Ed's unstinting support efforts each year when Donald brought a team
of cars to race at Sebring.
What Donald didn't mention was that the car was getting more than just a
standard 'refurb'...there was body damage suffered in the Tour de France
that was being put right, too. So Bussey's car was getting not only the
promised fresh engine and transmission, but some fresh body work, a red
paint job (was Ice Green Metallic), a new black interior and many
other detail mods.
The Healey team went home after Sebring and the summer went by with the
work being done on this old Special Test car, transforming it to look
like the last of the production 100/S's, except in Red. The agreement
was that Ed would take delivery of the car when the Healey team came
back over this way to race at the Nassau Tourist Trophy in the Fall, as
they had done every year in the mid '50's (Nassau being only 90 miles
from Miami, it made sense). But something unplanned intervened before
the ex-Special Test car could be delivered that was to give Millie her
name.
The 1955 running of the Mille Miglia was to occur not long before Donald
was to deliver this car to Nassau. Due to some of the Works cars being
down for serious repairs at the time (see Carroll Shelby's account of
the '55 Carrera PanAmericana), the Healey team was short of cars
for this important race (Sebring and the Mille Miglia were Donald's
favorite races). And this was shaping up to be a very exciting Mille
Miglia indeed, with Moss, Fangio, Herrmann and Kling in Mercedes Benz
300SLR's,
Castelloti, Maglioli, and Taruffi in big bore Lampredi-engined V-12
Ferrari's and everybody who was anybody in racing already signed up.
Donald Healey had drivers lined up,
too, and would drive a 100/S himself as well-his last racing
appearance. So suddenly he had a car crisis--too many drivers, not
enough cars. But wait...that old Special Test car was finished, with a
fresh engine and drivetrain, and just awaiting delivery to Nassau. And
besides, it had a fresh Red paint job...sort of fitting for an Italian
race
(that's a story in itself). So it was pressed into service as George
Abecassis' car. Of the four 100/S's entered, two finished...Abecassis
brought this car home to an 11th overall in perhaps the most famous of
all the Mille Miglias.
She was cleaned up and delivered to Ed Bussey and Phil Stiles in Nassau
a month
later; she just had a couple of thousand "break-in miles" on the new
engine. Before she even arrived, Phil Stiles had already begun referring
to her as "Millie" in honor of her recent
placement. Phil would later take Millie on to further glory at the
Daytona Speed Week and the next Sebring.
I only discovered her name when I contacted Phil Stiles about 5 years
before he died. He was enthusiastic about her and delighted in telling
me this story about how he came to name Millie. It was obvious that he
was delighted to be able to re-live an important part of his racing
career with me. Phil lovingly detailed
everything he had done to Millie and where he had raced her; and,
unasked, he handed
over shop notes, lap charts, letters to and from Donald about Millie,
photos, certificates, memorabilia and even a video transcribed from old
8mm Brownie Home Movie film of Millie at 1956 Sebring. In our telephone
conversations
and many letters, Phil was rather adamant that she continue to be
referred to as Millie, as he felt it only right that a car which had
placed in two Sebrings and run three Mille Miglias (real ones, not
Historica's)
should have a serious, respectful name. As if I would ever even THINK
of changing her name!
Perhaps he was only being modest, but I got the distinct impression from
talking to Phil that he regarded Millie's 11th at the 1955 Mille Miglia
as a more significant achievement than his own 11th overall in her at
1956
Sebring, or even her 3rd overall in the 1954 Sebring. Phil Stiles and
many
racers of the time regarded the Mille Miglia as a 'REAL roadrace on real
roads', unlike Sebring, which they considered just a make-shift affair
since it was run on an old abandoned Army airstrip--even though Phil did
help Alec Ulmann design it.
Best regards,
Fred Hunter
SPL-224B/AHS-3804
From "John Rowe" <jarowe at connect.comdek.net.au>
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2000 22:37:49 +0800
Subject: Distributor Timing
Hi All
Does anyone know of a web site that explains distributor advance curve
theory ie vacuum advance combined with centrifugal spark advance.
TIA
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
BT7 just waiting to be fired up.
From "kirk kvam" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2000 09:33:45 -0700
Subject: Re: Names and History (long)
"GREAT STORY FRED"
Kirk Kvam
62BT7#3
26"T"RoadsterPU
60BN7-405 (302Ford)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fred Hunter" <fhunter@kcnet.com>
To: <pollpete@ix.netcom.com>
Cc: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 13, 2000 12:16 AM
Subject: Names and History (long)
>
> Regarding car 'names': August, 2000
>
> The 'Naming of cars' thread has sort of run it's course now, so perhaps
> this will be of interest (delete now if you're not into Healey history):
>
> 'Millie' is the first of the Special Test cars. She's been with me 33
> years; Millie has some fairly heavy history behind her, but I'll confine
> my comments here to that history
> which is relevant to her name. You must understand that I didn't
> name her...nor did any of her 4 previous owners...in fact, I'd owned her
> about 15 years before I discovered that she even HAD a name. Here's a
> bit of history concerning how one of her drivers came to name her.
>
> Most of you are familiar with the big racing effort that the Donald
> Healey
> Motor Co. put on for 1955 Sebring. The very first batch of 'production'
> 100/S's made were sent over for their new owners to take possession AT
> THE RACE. Six production 100/S's in all were sent, plus one Works car
> for Stirling
> Moss to drive. Millie wasn't part of the Sebring effort that year. The
> production 'S's had teething problems, to be
> expected in a brand new model, and the privateers received semi-factory
> support in the form of Geoff Healey, Roger Menadue, Jim Cashmore, and
> the team of mechanics on hand from Ship & Shore Motors of West Palm
> Beach all chipping in to get the cars sorted out before the big race.
> Notably, the Works car that Moss drove, OON-441, suffered none of these
> problems--it was a fully sorted race car; besides, it was running
> different equipment from the production cars.
>
> All the cars were fixed in time, the race was run, and Moss came home
> 6th overall and first in class, followed by most of the privateer 'S's,
> scattered throughout the finishing order.
> After the race, Ed Bussey, the owner of Ship & Shore Motors, the Austin
> Healey Distributor for the Southeastern U.S., approached Donald about
> possibly acquiring a race car for his distributorship to campaign. As
> Geoff tells the story years later, Donald said, "We've just the car for
> you. We've got this old nail that we're refurbing right now that you
> could have for a good price. We'll send it along when its finished."
> From all I can tell from my interviews with the participants, this
> arrangement was considered by all concerned a sort of a 'payback' or
> 'thank you' from Donald to his good friend and distributor, Ed Bussey,
> for Ed's unstinting support efforts each year when Donald brought a team
> of cars to race at Sebring.
> What Donald didn't mention was that the car was getting more than just a
> standard 'refurb'...there was body damage suffered in the Tour de France
> that was being put right, too. So Bussey's car was getting not only the
> promised fresh engine and transmission, but some fresh body work, a red
> paint job (was Ice Green Metallic), a new black interior and many
> other detail mods.
>
> The Healey team went home after Sebring and the summer went by with the
> work being done on this old Special Test car, transforming it to look
> like the last of the production 100/S's, except in Red. The agreement
> was that Ed would take delivery of the car when the Healey team came
> back over this way to race at the Nassau Tourist Trophy in the Fall, as
> they had done every year in the mid '50's (Nassau being only 90 miles
> from Miami, it made sense). But something unplanned intervened before
> the ex-Special Test car could be delivered that was to give Millie her
> name.
>
> The 1955 running of the Mille Miglia was to occur not long before Donald
> was to deliver this car to Nassau. Due to some of the Works cars being
> down for serious repairs at the time (see Carroll Shelby's account of
> the '55 Carrera PanAmericana), the Healey team was short of cars
> for this important race (Sebring and the Mille Miglia were Donald's
> favorite races). And this was shaping up to be a very exciting Mille
> Miglia indeed, with Moss, Fangio, Herrmann and Kling in Mercedes Benz
> 300SLR's,
> Castelloti, Maglioli, and Taruffi in big bore Lampredi-engined V-12
> Ferrari's and everybody who was anybody in racing already signed up.
>
> Donald Healey had drivers lined up,
> too, and would drive a 100/S himself as well-his last racing
> appearance. So suddenly he had a car crisis--too many drivers, not
> enough cars. But wait...that old Special Test car was finished, with a
> fresh engine and drivetrain, and just awaiting delivery to Nassau. And
> besides, it had a fresh Red paint job...sort of fitting for an Italian
> race
> (that's a story in itself). So it was pressed into service as George
> Abecassis' car. Of the four 100/S's entered, two finished...Abecassis
> brought this car home to an 11th overall in perhaps the most famous of
> all the Mille Miglias.
>
> She was cleaned up and delivered to Ed Bussey and Phil Stiles in Nassau
> a month
> later; she just had a couple of thousand "break-in miles" on the new
> engine. Before she even arrived, Phil Stiles had already begun referring
> to her as "Millie" in honor of her recent
> placement. Phil would later take Millie on to further glory at the
> Daytona Speed Week and the next Sebring.
>
> I only discovered her name when I contacted Phil Stiles about 5 years
> before he died. He was enthusiastic about her and delighted in telling
> me this story about how he came to name Millie. It was obvious that he
> was delighted to be able to re-live an important part of his racing
> career with me. Phil lovingly detailed
> everything he had done to Millie and where he had raced her; and,
> unasked, he handed
> over shop notes, lap charts, letters to and from Donald about Millie,
> photos, certificates, memorabilia and even a video transcribed from old
> 8mm Brownie Home Movie film of Millie at 1956 Sebring. In our telephone
> conversations
> and many letters, Phil was rather adamant that she continue to be
> referred to as Millie, as he felt it only right that a car which had
> placed in two Sebrings and run three Mille Miglias (real ones, not
> Historica's)
> should have a serious, respectful name. As if I would ever even THINK
> of changing her name!
>
> Perhaps he was only being modest, but I got the distinct impression from
> talking to Phil that he regarded Millie's 11th at the 1955 Mille Miglia
> as a more significant achievement than his own 11th overall in her at
> 1956
> Sebring, or even her 3rd overall in the 1954 Sebring. Phil Stiles and
> many
> racers of the time regarded the Mille Miglia as a 'REAL roadrace on real
> roads', unlike Sebring, which they considered just a make-shift affair
> since it was run on an old abandoned Army airstrip--even though Phil did
> help Alec Ulmann design it.
>
> Best regards,
>
> Fred Hunter
> SPL-224B/AHS-3804
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2000 09:33:35 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Monterey Historics at Laguna Seca on Friday
At 10:00 we will be there and consider MacDonalds the
virtual Healey Coral!
Dean - BN7
Mark - BN7
--- JSoderling@aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Erika the Red and I will be down at Laguna Seca to
> see Phillip Coombs race
> his newly restored 100S. How many of you are going
> on Saturday? Let's all
> plan on meeting in front of the McDonald's stand in
> the pit area at 10:00
> a.m. say "hi" to each other and maybe pick out a
> good spot to all sit
> together to enjoy the races and root for Phillip and
> the other Healeys
> racing. I'm open to other suggestions, if some of
> you Laguna racing veterans
> have a better idea.
> Hope we get a good turnout.
> John
>
>
__________________________________________________
Yahoo! Mail – Free email you can access from anywhere!
http://mail.yahoo.com/
From "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej at mossmotors.com>
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2000 09:46:22 -0700
Subject: RE: Moss Water Pump
Yup! They are permanantly lubed. It's not a bad idea to run them dry for
about 30 seconds to seat the seal as well.
-----Original Message-----
From: Phil Nase [mailto:pnase@enter.net]
Sent: Saturday, August 12, 2000 2:46 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Moss Water Pump
I purchased a new water pump for my BN1 from Moss Motors. Where the
original pump has a lubrication point the new one is plugged. The only
access is top dead center however it seems that if I lube it there it will
only escape thru the impeller because I can see daylight thru the hole. Are
these permanantly lubed from the factory? Salesperson wasn't convincing,
although he said they were, he hedged a bit. Thanks for any assistance you
can provide.
While I had the generator and hoses out of the way I gave the head and valve
cover a repaint. Looking a lot better. (Used to be Chevy Red).
Hope to see a lot of you at the Austin Healey Sports and Touring Club
Encounter this week.
Phil Nase
55 BN1
From "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej at mossmotors.com>
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2000 11:08:11 -0700
Subject: Cracked shock mount.
Hello Healeylist, this is my first posting here, so please be kind.
I have recently picked up a 1960 BN7 and I noticed that the drivers side
front wheel had a bit of extra negative camber. Upon close inpection I
noticed that there seems to be a cracked weld under where the shock mounts
and there is a bit of a gap there allowing the shock to sort of pivot up and
back slightly. It almost looks like someone tried to weld a piece of metal
on the inside of it to hold it together. From talking to some of the people
I get the impression that this is not exactly unheard of if not fairly
common. Obviously it needs to be fixed, but my question is, in the meantime
how dangerous is this thing? Should I park the car til I get it fixed? Is
it going to collapse at any moment? How difficult is it to fix? It
appears to have been this way for some time so it's hard to say.
Jonathan Lane
From "Karlsson Magnus" <healey at telia.com>
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2000 20:57:03 +0200
Subject: SV: Cracked shock mount.
Jonathan,
I would definitely fix this before I drove the car any further. It is a common
problem.
It is not the easiest of jobs. You should get a new top bracket to replace the
old one. It is important that you get the correct measurements, which can be
found in Haynes manual and probably in the original workshop manual.
Magnus Karlsson
Sweden
----- Original Message -----
From: Lane, Jonathan <lanej@mossmotors.com>
To: 'healeylist' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 13, 2000 8:08 PM
Subject: Cracked shock mount.
>
> Hello Healeylist, this is my first posting here, so please be kind.
>
> I have recently picked up a 1960 BN7 and I noticed that the drivers side
> front wheel had a bit of extra negative camber. Upon close inpection I
> noticed that there seems to be a cracked weld under where the shock mounts
> and there is a bit of a gap there allowing the shock to sort of pivot up and
> back slightly. It almost looks like someone tried to weld a piece of metal
> on the inside of it to hold it together. From talking to some of the people
> I get the impression that this is not exactly unheard of if not fairly
> common. Obviously it needs to be fixed, but my question is, in the meantime
> how dangerous is this thing? Should I park the car til I get it fixed? Is
> it going to collapse at any moment? How difficult is it to fix? It
> appears to have been this way for some time so it's hard to say.
>
> Jonathan Lane
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2000 16:36:33 -0400
Subject: Re: Cracked shock mount.
Hi, Jonathan --
It is common for the shock mounting bolts to loosen on Big Healeys. This
can lead to cracks in the shock mounting towers. Any vibration of the front
wheels from out-of-balance or out-of-true wire wheels would contribute both
to loosening of the bolts and cracking of the tower. I once discovered the
left front tower of my BJ8 cracked severely (multiple cracks) while miles
away from home and only inadvertently while investigating a brake problem.
Before leaving home, I had torqued the bolts, too, and had noticed no
cracking of the tower! I have a basket case BJ7, and after the BJ8 problem
I discovered the same cracking on the left front shock tower of that car.
The cracks can be repaired by welding, but the "gap" needs to be closed
first to return the shock mounting surface to its normal position. I
would recommend not driving the car until the damage is repaired. If the
shock tears loose, the wheel can collapse since the shock arms form the
upper control arm of the suspension.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
Havelock, NC USA
-----Original Message-----
From: Lane, Jonathan <lanej@mossmotors.com>
To: 'healeylist' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sunday, August 13, 2000 2:20 PM
Subject: Cracked shock mount.
>
>Hello Healeylist, this is my first posting here, so please be kind.
>
>I have recently picked up a 1960 BN7 and I noticed that the drivers side
>front wheel had a bit of extra negative camber. Upon close inpection I
>noticed that there seems to be a cracked weld under where the shock mounts
>and there is a bit of a gap there allowing the shock to sort of pivot up
and
>back slightly. It almost looks like someone tried to weld a piece of metal
>on the inside of it to hold it together. From talking to some of the
people
>I get the impression that this is not exactly unheard of if not fairly
>common. Obviously it needs to be fixed, but my question is, in the
meantime
>how dangerous is this thing? Should I park the car til I get it fixed? Is
>it going to collapse at any moment? How difficult is it to fix? It
>appears to have been this way for some time so it's hard to say.
>
>Jonathan Lane
From MOWOGMAN at aol.com
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2000 17:47:39 EDT
Subject: BT7 throttle linkage
I am having a #@%$# of a time getting my throttle linkage set up correctly on
my '60BT7!
Has anyone been down this road, or does any one have dimensions of rods, etc
that I could use to get in the ball park?
I purchased all new ball and socket joints and I notice the new ones are
longer than the old ones? If this is right, it would mean that each rod is
longer than it's supposed to be?
I'm also curious about the two levers mounted on the rod under the firewall.
One goes down and connects to the OD switch, the other connects to the
accelerator shaft. Which one of the two is longer? (are mine backwards?) I
have them hooked up as they were when I got the car (took photos) but am now
wondering.
I saw one article in Moss Motoring, and I have original manual, any other
hints?
thanks,
John
Oostburg, WI
'60 BT7
'60 Mini
'80 TR7 (freshly repainted Carmine red!)
'69 AA
'57 Isetta
Etc.
From JXLmail at aol.com
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2000 18:30:48 EDT
Subject: Re: Monterey Historics at Laguna Seca on Friday
John,
Sounds great see you-all at McDonalds.
Jim L.
From JXLmail at aol.com
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2000 18:44:20 EDT
Subject: Re: Monterey Historics
Lee,
I'll take your and Gary's suggestion. Gary mentioned the same location but
he didn't say anything about running back and forth. So if you see a guy with
a purple backpack on lying on his face on the hill that's me, stop by and say
hi and bring water.
The camera only has what is equal to a 50mm lense on a SLR (35MM) camera. I
useally have to get alittle closer to the action than folks with telephotos
(I keep hearing them yelling "hey you with the old camera your in the
picture, SIT DOWN"). So I hope a wide angle shot will look neat.
I could bring my Nikon and the 80-200 zoom but 4 x 5 is a lot more fun. It
makes me think about the shot. I end up taking alot less shots than if I
brought my modern 35 MM but I get alot more keepers.
But it's a pain in the back to lug around. I'm glad that the temp is
predicted in the low 70s. It's not fun dragging that camera and tripod around
in hot temps.
Because it's so low tech and slow to setup people are very comfortable around
it. Sometimes you get places that you wouldn't be allowed just because
someone assumes that with a bellows camera "he must know what he's doing",
which I can assure use is at most correct 20% of the time.
Jim Latoff
56 BN2
From "Neil Cotty" <neilc at apphosting.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 09:27:54 +1000
Subject: USA Holiday
Hi all :)
My girlfriend Sonia and I are coming over to the US for approximately 26
days commencing 12th September. We'll be spending 15 days touring
California, 4 days in New Orleans, 3 days in Chicago and 4 Days in New York
before we head off to Ireland and England to live for a year or two.
Would love to catch up with some of the faces on the list. :) If anyone is
interested in a get together please Email me. :) We'll be visiting San
Fransisco, LA, Los Vegas, Phoenix, Monterey and numerous other places
throughout California/Nevada/Arizona. We'll be staying in the French Quarter
in New Orleans and in NY City, I forget which street. Of course I wish I had
a MG or Healey to drive throughout CA as I'll be leaving my 'babies' for
quite a long time, but hopefully I'll get to see plenty of List members cars
and meet a whole bunch of you at the same time to keep my mind off things!
<G>
Looking forward to it! :)
Cheers,
Neil
Sydney, Australia
61A / 68CGT / 70BGT / 56BN2
http://www.apphosting.com/mgstuff/
From "Jeff Brantley" <jbrantley at redshift.com>
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2000 16:35:23 -0700
Subject: Monterey Historics and McDonald's
We are new to the list but have enjoyed it tremendously. We are in the
midst of building a garage and have had to move the Healey outside but we're
actually driving it, which has been a blast. It is in pre-pre-pre
restoration stage but we love it. We will try to meet all of you at the
Historics (we're somewhat shy though). The only problem is I believe (it
might be rumor) that the McDonald's didn't get the franchise at Laguna Seca
and that some other group has it. I can't remember which group got it.
Nevertheless, the structure will still be there. We're from Monterey, so,
we'll see you there and look forward to seeing more Healeys.
Angela & Jeff Brantley
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2000 19:41:45 EDT
Subject: Re: USA Holiday
In a message dated 08/13/2000 6:26:30 PM Central Daylight Time,
neilc@apphosting.com writes:
<< 3 days in Chicago >>
OH SH*T!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2000 20:04:01 EDT
Subject: Re: Monterey Historics and McDonald's
In a message dated 08/13/2000 6:33:08 PM Central Daylight Time,
jbrantley@redshift.com writes:
<< (we're somewhat shy though) >>
Jeff:
As a "displaced" Monterayan, Pacific Grovan and Carmilite (rest of list NO
COMMENTS "required, please!) PLEASE DO NOT be "shy". You are about to meet
some of the finest folks in the world ( and I AM extremely jealous!)!!!!!
To the best of my knowledge and experiences, just walk right up to just
ONE of the Healey Owners (Big or Small), stick out your hand and say Hello, I
have (or am driving) a B_-_.
You will now AUTOMATICALLY meet all the rest!!!
Having said the above, I "could be in error" (again Listers, QUIET!!)!! As a
"local" you might be there first so the reverse will occur!! Right, Gary??
Cheers and ENJOY (and remember I AM jealous!!)....
Ed
'63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey)
Member, AHCUSA
Founding Member & Delegate, ILLINI Chapter - AHCA
(Purchaser of '61 Frogeye, new in showroom, 2/17/62 in
Monteray(sigh))
Ed Kaler, Proprietor
" Just Brits "
Hinsdale, IL (which is only sorta the reason I am not there<sigh>)<F>!!
From Fred Hunter <fhunter at kcnet.com>
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2000 20:12:13 -0500
Subject: Re: USA Holiday
Neil Cotty wrote:
>
> Hi all :)
>
> My girlfriend Sonia and I are coming over to the US for approximately 26
> days commencing 12th September. We'll be spending 15 days touring
> California, 4 days in New Orleans, 3 days in Chicago and 4 Days in New York
> before we head off to Ireland and England to live for a year or two.
>
> Would love to catch up with some of the faces on the list. :) If anyone is
> interested in a get together please Email me. :) We'll be visiting San
> Fransisco, LA, Los Vegas, Phoenix, Monterey and numerous other places
> throughout California/Nevada/Arizona. We'll be staying in the French Quarter
> in New Orleans and in NY City, I forget which street. Of course I wish I had
> a MG or Healey to drive throughout CA
Neil:
Sure, driving a Healey up the Pacific Coast Highway would be nice, but
hey, here's a substitute suggestion that I ASSURE YOU will be almost as
pleasurable:
Just RENT a Mustang V8 convertible (a red one :-) from any of the big
car rental outfits when you get here, and drive up the coast in that.
They've all got 'um, they're relatively cheap, and they're lots of fun;
wind in the face, and all that, with modern power, and almost decent
handling. They aren't Healeys, but they are AVAILABLE!
Best regards,
Fred Hunter
A guy
Who drives
A car wide open
Is not thinkin'
He's just hopin'
--Burma-Shave--
From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2000 21:58:47 -0400
Subject: Re: USA Holiday
I am looking for two original (Lucas Altette) horns for a 1960 BN7.
These are gold colored and were originally mounted in front of the
radiator on each side. If I can't find working ones, my alternative
is to find someone to restore them. Any ideas?
From "Jeff Brantley" <jbrantley at redshift.com>
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2000 18:38:18 -0700
Subject: Re: Monterey Historics and McDonald's
Thanks to all for a great welcome. Jeff will give you the details of the
car. Although I won it from him in a bet when we first met (details will
come MUCH later after I've known you all for a LONG time), I don't know a
thing about it. The only important thing I do know is that riding in it is
really, really warm. In Monterey, that is a big deal since it's coastal
cool here a good many days of the year. Hint, hint: Dress in layers for the
Historics. It can be brutally cold (not Chicago cold) and toasty in the
afternoon. Bring windbreakers.
Angela
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2000 21:54:35 EDT
Subject: Re: Monterey Historics and McDonald's
In a message dated 08/13/2000 8:49:22 PM Central Daylight Time,
jbrantley@redshift.com writes:
<< It can be brutally cold (not Chicago cold) and toasty in the
afternoon. Bring windbreakers.
Angela >>
Hey, gang, a "powder puffer" that knows Chicago IS (er?) WARM!!!
Hi and WELCOME, Angela!!!!
Ed (I am STILL jealous)
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2000 23:55:43 EDT
Subject: Re: Monterey Historics and McDonald's
In a message dated 8/13/00 4:44:14 PM, jbrantley@redshift.com writes:
<< We're from Monterey, so,
we'll see you there and look forward to seeing more Healeys.
Angela & Jeff Brantley
>>
If you're around Pacific Grove on Friday afternoon, stop by the British Car
Magazine booth and say hello. We'll be at the Concours Rally on Lighthouse
Ave. from about 1pm until 6pm. I'm going out to the races on Sunday and
should be somewhere around the Healey 100S at different times. If any of the
Healey crowd is going to be around on Sunday, look for me there about ten.
Cheers
Gary Anderosn
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 00:04:00 EDT
Subject: Re: Cracked shock mount.
DO NOT DRIVE THE CAR
If the shock tower is cracked and the shock is pulling away fron the tower I
would say that the car is not safe to be on the road until it is repaired
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>Br
itishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From "Scheuble, Fred J. ,HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 09:12:23 -0400
Subject: RE: Monterey Historics and McDonald's
how things change, I remember going with a couple of hot rod buddies to the
local white castles (hamburger joint for those of you who are not familiar)
and getting a couple of "gut grenades". keeping them warm and the valve
cover of my old v-8 flathead...
-----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Brantley [mailto:jbrantley@redshift.com]
Sent: Sunday, August 13, 2000 7:35 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Monterey Historics and McDonald's
We are new to the list but have enjoyed it tremendously. We are in the
midst of building a garage and have had to move the Healey outside but we're
actually driving it, which has been a blast. It is in pre-pre-pre
restoration stage but we love it. We will try to meet all of you at the
Historics (we're somewhat shy though). The only problem is I believe (it
might be rumor) that the McDonald's didn't get the franchise at Laguna Seca
and that some other group has it. I can't remember which group got it.
Nevertheless, the structure will still be there. We're from Monterey, so,
we'll see you there and look forward to seeing more Healeys.
Angela & Jeff Brantley
From "Jim Loewen" <jimloewen at hotmail.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 13:21:19 GMT
Subject: "Man with No Face"
Anyone else catch the short clip of the Healey 3000
in the Mel Gibson movie aired last weekend?
Not sure of the exact vintage.
Jim
ICT
________________________________________________________________________
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 09:51:20 -0400
Subject: cracks
Jonathan,
I would like to second Steve's and Magnus's opinions and also recommend
you check the other side, too. I once saw 37 cracks in a LF shock mount
(which the owner knew about and wanted fixed) and more than 40 in the RF
tower which were not at all obvious until the shock was removed and the
mounting plate examined without paint.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
From "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej at mossmotors.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 06:55:56 -0700
Subject: RE: Cracked shock mount.
Thanks for the suggestions, guys. You've basically confirmed what I knew in
my heart to be true, but didn't want to admit. I guess I am just caught in
one of those sports car induced delusions that allows us to suspend common
sense. Kinda like when we buy these silly cars to begin with!
It looks to me like the piece has just bent upward and inward and what
basically needs to be done is pull the suspension off, bend the piece back
into place and weld it up. Does this sound right? Everything seems to be
lined up ok, it just seems like it's a little off.
On a related note, I've never done one of these suspensions, but it is very
similar to the MGB ones that I can do in my sleep. Do I need to use a
spring compressor for this or can I just compress it with a floor jack like
on the B? Also, all those wierd pin things they use on the pivot points,
what are the chances of getting those things apart without a torch? They
look a little daunting. The car had been sitting for 15 years up until
about a month ago. I guess the first step is start soaking it down with
penetrant. Yeesh, what have I done!!
What's the deal with McDonalds at the Historics? I just joined the list and
I don't know that I got that one. Won't have the Healey, but my B-GT
deserves the trip anyway.
-----Original Message-----
From: HLYDOC@aol.com [mailto:HLYDOC@aol.com]
Sent: Sunday, August 13, 2000 9:04 PM
To: lanej@mossmotors.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Cracked shock mount.
DO NOT DRIVE THE CAR
If the shock tower is cracked and the shock is pulling away fron the tower I
would say that the car is not safe to be on the road until it is repaired
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A
HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>Br
itishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From William Moyer <William.Moyer at millersv.edu>
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 10:44:05 -0400
Subject: RE: Monterey Historics and McDonald's
d
how things change, I remember going with a couple of hot rod buddies to the
local white castles (hamburger joint for those of you who are not familiar)
and getting a couple of "gut grenades". keeping them warm and the valve
cover of my old v-8 flathead...
< Years ago, before we got so serious about our cars, the Healey Highlights
(then mag of the Pacific Coast club) published an article detailing how to
cook a pot roast on a two hour tour by wrapping it and some veggies in thick
aluminum foil and carefully placing it on the intake manifold. I got the
impression that they actually did this.
Bill Moyer, BJ7
From "Scheuble, Fred J. ,HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 10:56:27 -0400
Subject: RE: Monterey Historics and McDonald's
You gotta love it!
-----Original Message-----
From: William Moyer [mailto:William.Moyer@millersv.edu]
Sent: Monday, August 14, 2000 10:44 AM
To: 'Scheuble, Fred J. ,HiServ/NA'; 'Jeff Brantley';
healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: Monterey Historics and McDonald's
d
how things change, I remember going with a couple of hot rod buddies to the
local white castles (hamburger joint for those of you who are not familiar)
and getting a couple of "gut grenades". keeping them warm and the valve
cover of my old v-8 flathead...
< Years ago, before we got so serious about our cars, the Healey Highlights
(then mag of the Pacific Coast club) published an article detailing how to
cook a pot roast on a two hour tour by wrapping it and some veggies in thick
aluminum foil and carefully placing it on the intake manifold. I got the
impression that they actually did this.
Bill Moyer, BJ7
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 11:00:09 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Describing Noises Part Two - as promised
As promised.
DickB
081400 STRANGE NOISE "VOCABULARY
LIST" (PART TWO OF TWO)
You're driving along, when your car
starts making a noise
you haven't heard before, a noise
you think it's not
supposed to be making, one that
indicates a problem. You'll
need to describe this noise to your
mechanic. But you don't
have a tape recorder handy and you
can't think of a good
way to describe the noise. What to
do?
Print out this "vocabulary list" of
odd vehicle noises,
keep it in your glove compartment
and use it to help you
provide the best description. (This
is the second of two
parts.
HUM - Continuous sound of varying
frequencies, like a wire
humming in the wind.
KNOCK - Heavy, loud repeating
sound, like a knock on a door.
PING - Similar to a knock but at a
higher frequency.
RATTLE - A sound of "looseness,"
like marbles rolling
around in a can.
ROAR - Deep, long, prolonged sound
like an animal or like
winds and ocean waves.
RUMBLE - Low, heavy continuous
sound, like that made by
wagons or thunder.
SQUEAK - High-pitched sound like
rubbing a clean window.
TAP - Light, hammering sound like
tapping a pencil on the
edge of a table, rhythmic or
intermittent.
WHIR/WHINE - High-pitched buzzing
sound similar to an
electric motor or drill.
WHISTLE - Sharp, shrill sound, like
wind passing through a
small opening.
Accurate description of the strange
noise you hear is the
first step to getting the problem
diagnosed, in order to
fix whatever is wrong. Mechanics
respect customers who can
"speak their language." This list
will help you get the
best service possible on your
vehicle.
Source: "GEICO Direct," Spring 1999
(adapted)
----------------------------------------------------------------
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 11:05:40 EDT
Subject: Re: Monterey Historics and McDonald's
In a message dated 08/14/2000 9:48:39 AM Central Daylight Time,
William.Moyer@millersv.edu writes:
<< I got the
impression that they actually did this. >>
Yep, Bill. The NEOhio Group (I am pretty sure) even has a "cook book"!!
Cheers...........
Ed
'63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey)
From "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej at mossmotors.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 08:19:48 -0700
Subject: RE: Monterey Historics and McDonald's
Ok, I can tell that somebody is about to suggest it, so I may as well step
forward:
Who is going to volunteer to stick the pot roast on the manifold for
Monterey and complete the experiment?
-----Original Message-----
From: JustBrits@aol.com [mailto:JustBrits@aol.com]
Sent: Monday, August 14, 2000 8:06 AM
To: William.Moyer@millersv.edu; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Monterey Historics and McDonald's
In a message dated 08/14/2000 9:48:39 AM Central Daylight Time,
William.Moyer@millersv.edu writes:
<< I got the
impression that they actually did this. >>
Yep, Bill. The NEOhio Group (I am pretty sure) even has a "cook book"!!
Cheers...........
Ed
'63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey)
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 11:25:01 EDT
Subject: Re: Monterey Historics and McDonald's
In a message dated 08/14/2000 10:22:04 AM Central Daylight Time,
lanej@mossmotors.com writes:
<< Who is going to volunteer to stick the pot roast on the manifold for
Monterey and complete the experiment? >>
YOU, Jon !! The MG will do it whilst you motor up the coast. Just allow
another hour, I would guess!!
Bon apetite !!
Ed
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 08:31:18 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: RE: Monterey Historics and McDonald's
On Mon, 14 Aug 2000 10:44:05 -0400, William Moyer wrote:
<< Years ago, before we got so serious about our cars, Healey Highlights
[former name of Austin-Healey Magazine, published by the Austin-Healey Club
USA] published an article detailing how to cook a pot roast on a two hour
tour by wrapping it and some veggies in thick
aluminum foil and carefully placing it on the intake manifold. I got the
impression that they actually did this. >>
So, there's like another way?
Come an' get it,
Reid
_______________________________________________________
Say Bye to Slow Internet!
http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html
From "Scheuble, Fred J. ,HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 11:55:06 -0400
Subject: RE: Monterey Historics and McDonald's
LOL
-----Original Message-----
From: Lane, Jonathan [mailto:lanej@mossmotors.com]
Sent: Monday, August 14, 2000 11:20 AM
To: 'JustBrits@aol.com'; William.Moyer@millersv.edu;
healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: Monterey Historics and McDonald's
Ok, I can tell that somebody is about to suggest it, so I may as well step
forward:
Who is going to volunteer to stick the pot roast on the manifold for
Monterey and complete the experiment?
-----Original Message-----
From: JustBrits@aol.com [mailto:JustBrits@aol.com]
Sent: Monday, August 14, 2000 8:06 AM
To: William.Moyer@millersv.edu; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Monterey Historics and McDonald's
In a message dated 08/14/2000 9:48:39 AM Central Daylight Time,
William.Moyer@millersv.edu writes:
<< I got the
impression that they actually did this. >>
Yep, Bill. The NEOhio Group (I am pretty sure) even has a "cook book"!!
Cheers...........
Ed
'63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey)
From "Charles A. Peters" <buzzatl at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 11:55:27 -0400
Subject: Re: Cracked shock mount.
Lane
I removed my springs in the following manner by using a floor jack, scissor
jack and four 6 inch X quarter bolts. Put the car on jack stands, put a
small block of wood under the pan as you will need to have access to the
bolts holding the pan to the lower A arms, jack up the supension at the
sping pan until level with the floor. Put the scissor jack at the bottom of
the king pin. This will hold the lower A arms level when you let the floor
jack down. Remove one of the bolts on the spring pan and replace with a 6
inch bolt and a nut. Go to the opposing holding bolt, eg: front outside to
rear inside, and do the same until replacing all the original bolts with 6
inch bolts and nuts. Then slowly let the jack down. The long bolts will
keep the spring pad horizontaly aligned with the A arms. It does not to
have to come down much to release the spring tension.
Heat seems to be the best bet with the upper fulcrum pins and lower link
bushings. When replacing the upper fulcrum pin, you may find the new part
is not size consistent on the shank just after the threaded portion. Not
sure if this a manufacturing process defect or not. If so, you will need to
turn down the bolt at that point. Do not open up the shock arms to make it
fit.
You will probably also find the inner fulcrum pin assemblies on the lower A
arms to be frozen as well. If you do, you can use a neat trick to remove
them. Remove the castle nut and the large washer. Reinstall the castle nut
in reverse (eg: castle side toward the A arm housing) on the bolt until it
bottoms out on the threads. Put the large washer on next. Cut a piece of
steel tubing to just fit between the washer and the shock tower. Unscrew
the castle nut. This will push the bolt out of the lower arm bushings.
Sort of a mini press. This will not push it all the way out. Tighten the
castle nut back onto the bolt and cut and another steel space to fit and do
like before. I would recommend that you clean and reuse the original bolts
and washers. They are a lot better than the replacement parts I have seen
thus far.
Buzz Peters
BN7
AN8
57 Isetta
----- Original Message -----
From: Lane, Jonathan <lanej@mossmotors.com>
To: <HLYDOC@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 14, 2000 9:55 AM
Subject: RE: Cracked shock mount.
>
> Thanks for the suggestions, guys. You've basically confirmed what I knew
in
> my heart to be true, but didn't want to admit. I guess I am just caught
in
> one of those sports car induced delusions that allows us to suspend common
> sense. Kinda like when we buy these silly cars to begin with!
>
> It looks to me like the piece has just bent upward and inward and what
> basically needs to be done is pull the suspension off, bend the piece back
> into place and weld it up. Does this sound right? Everything seems to be
> lined up ok, it just seems like it's a little off.
>
> On a related note, I've never done one of these suspensions, but it is
very
> similar to the MGB ones that I can do in my sleep. Do I need to use a
> spring compressor for this or can I just compress it with a floor jack
like
> on the B? Also, all those wierd pin things they use on the pivot points,
> what are the chances of getting those things apart without a torch? They
> look a little daunting. The car had been sitting for 15 years up until
> about a month ago. I guess the first step is start soaking it down with
> penetrant. Yeesh, what have I done!!
>
> What's the deal with McDonalds at the Historics? I just joined the list
and
> I don't know that I got that one. Won't have the Healey, but my B-GT
> deserves the trip anyway.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: HLYDOC@aol.com [mailto:HLYDOC@aol.com]
> Sent: Sunday, August 13, 2000 9:04 PM
> To: lanej@mossmotors.com; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Cracked shock mount.
>
>
>
> DO NOT DRIVE THE CAR
> If the shock tower is cracked and the shock is pulling away fron the tower
I
>
> would say that the car is not safe to be on the road until it is repaired
>
>
> David Nock
> President/Service Manager
> British Car Specialists
> 2060 N Wilson Way
> Stockton Calif. 95205
> 209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
> Visit our new web site at <A
> HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>Br
> itishCarSpecialists.com</A>
> ========================================
> Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
> ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
>
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 12:01:03 EDT
Subject: Manifold Destiny
In a message dated 8/14/00 8:13:08 AM, William.Moyer@millersv.edu writes:
<<
< Years ago, before we got so serious about our cars, the Healey Highlights
(then mag of the Pacific Coast club) published an article detailing how to
cook a pot roast on a two hour tour by wrapping it and some veggies in thick
aluminum foil and carefully placing it on the intake manifold. I got the
impression that they actually did this. >>
Genie and I did it and wrote the article. (We followed the basic recipe that
Boy Scouts use for the second class badge, wrapping diced beef, diced
potatoes, and chopped onions in aluminum foil, then putting the roll on top
of the intake manifold.) This was not original; there is an entire cookbook
called "Manifold Destiny" that provides all sorts of recipes for cooking
things on the engine. I've always wanted to plan a day-trip picnic where the
meal would be cooked on the engine. You do need at least three hours of
continuous driving to cook things, however, since you're only working with abo
ut 250 degrees of heat max.
Cheers
Gary
From "Scheuble, Fred J. ,HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 12:08:51 -0400
Subject: RE: Manifold Destiny
will wonders never cease!
-----Original Message-----
From: Editorgary@aol.com [mailto:Editorgary@aol.com]
Sent: Monday, August 14, 2000 12:01 PM
To: William.Moyer@millersv.edu; fjscheuble@hiserv-na.com;
jbrantley@redshift.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Manifold Destiny
In a message dated 8/14/00 8:13:08 AM, William.Moyer@millersv.edu writes:
<<
< Years ago, before we got so serious about our cars, the Healey Highlights
(then mag of the Pacific Coast club) published an article detailing how to
cook a pot roast on a two hour tour by wrapping it and some veggies in thick
aluminum foil and carefully placing it on the intake manifold. I got the
impression that they actually did this. >>
Genie and I did it and wrote the article. (We followed the basic recipe that
Boy Scouts use for the second class badge, wrapping diced beef, diced
potatoes, and chopped onions in aluminum foil, then putting the roll on top
of the intake manifold.) This was not original; there is an entire cookbook
called "Manifold Destiny" that provides all sorts of recipes for cooking
things on the engine. I've always wanted to plan a day-trip picnic where the
meal would be cooked on the engine. You do need at least three hours of
continuous driving to cook things, however, since you're only working with
abo
ut 250 degrees of heat max.
Cheers
Gary
From James B Dalglish <leaker at exit109.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 12:08:23 -0400
Subject: Re: Monterey Historics and McDonald's
There is a book out. "Manifold Destiny."
JustBrits@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 08/14/2000 9:48:39 AM Central Daylight Time,
> William.Moyer@millersv.edu writes:
>
> << I got the
> impression that they actually did this. >>
>
> Yep, Bill. The NEOhio Group (I am pretty sure) even has a "cook book"!!
>
> Cheers...........
>
> Ed
> '63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey)
From costan0 at attglobal.net
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 09:37:13 -0700
Subject: oil cooler pressure drop
Could some of you expert mechanics give me an estimate of the pressure drop
expected when installing an oil cooler. This is the type from MOSS.
Thanks
Jerry
From "Pagel, John" <John.Pagel at imotors.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 09:39:25 -0700
Subject: RE: Firestone Tires
The man who crashed that Explorer admitted he had NEVER checked the
air pressure in his tires, He was going way over the speed limit (witnesses
he had swerved around before crashing pointed this fact out) The pain and
suffering his family has experienced are due to his negligence, he is
looking for a scapegoat.
Now, please quit fanning the flames of reactionary sensationalism on
this list, go find a lawyers list and talk about it there. Lets talk
Healeys here.
-----Original Message-----
From: dickb@cheerful.com [mailto:dickb@cheerful.com]
Sent: Saturday, August 12, 2000 7:33 AM
To: William Moyer; austin healey list
Subject: RE: Firestone Tires
Mr. Moyer
How in the world could you call the Florida family - who I'm sure you saw on
TV - with their broken bodies and their overturned and crushed Explorer with
it's obviously shredded tires, who have filed suit, --with some ancient
anecdote about a drunken pilot who sued Cessna for failure to install a
"drunk pilot preventer", is beyond my comprehension.
If you think all product liability litigation is "silly", I'm sorry for you
and I sure hope I never find myself behind you on the Interstate.
DickB
---- you wrote:
>
>
>
>
> Nor are consumers from paying the ultimate cost of of silly litigation
such
> as the family of a drunk who crashed a Cessna 150 that sued the aircraft
> maker for not devising a way to prevent drunks from operating the air
craft
> fifteen years earlier when that plane was built!
>
>
> <As a participant in such litigation (just call me Paladin) I can tell you
> that when a jury and a debate team all-star attorney get together anything
> is possible. I've been in a case where a man shot his grandmother in the
> back with a shotgun, paralyzing her and they sued the gun manufacturer,
five
> years later, for not having a larger "red dot" to indicate its readiness
to
> fire. He performed this triumph of firearms safety from the outside of
> their trailer into the living room (no window involved) where she was
> sitting in a rocking chair holding his daughter. The firearms
manufacturer
> was found liable and had to pay large bucks. Like millions.
>
> The lesson is that Firestone -will- be hurt by this, deservedly or no,
> especially if Barry Scheck (sp?) gets involved.
>
> Bill Moyer, BJ7
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
-----Original Message-----
From: dickb@cheerful.com [mailto:dickb@cheerful.com]
Sent: Saturday, August 12, 2000 7:33 AM
To: William Moyer; austin healey list
Subject: RE: Firestone Tires
Mr. Moyer
How in the world could you call the Florida family - who I'm sure you saw on
TV - with their broken bodies and their overturned and crushed Explorer with
it's obviously shredded tires, who have filed suit, --with some ancient
anecdote about a drunken pilot who sued Cessna for failure to install a
"drunk pilot preventer", is beyond my comprehension.
If you think all product liability litigation is "silly", I'm sorry for you
and I sure hope I never find myself behind you on the Interstate.
DickB
---- you wrote:
>
>
>
>
> Nor are consumers from paying the ultimate cost of of silly litigation
such
> as the family of a drunk who crashed a Cessna 150 that sued the aircraft
> maker for not devising a way to prevent drunks from operating the air
craft
> fifteen years earlier when that plane was built!
>
>
> <As a participant in such litigation (just call me Paladin) I can tell you
> that when a jury and a debate team all-star attorney get together anything
> is possible. I've been in a case where a man shot his grandmother in the
> back with a shotgun, paralyzing her and they sued the gun manufacturer,
five
> years later, for not having a larger "red dot" to indicate its readiness
to
> fire. He performed this triumph of firearms safety from the outside of
> their trailer into the living room (no window involved) where she was
> sitting in a rocking chair holding his daughter. The firearms
manufacturer
> was found liable and had to pay large bucks. Like millions.
>
> The lesson is that Firestone -will- be hurt by this, deservedly or no,
> especially if Barry Scheck (sp?) gets involved.
>
> Bill Moyer, BJ7
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 13:40:41 EDT
Subject: Re: RE: Firestone Tires
Another interesting note from this morning's news-- every one of the tires
that delaminated was manufactured at one Firestone plant and during a period
when workers at that plant were out on strike and the assembly line was being
run by managers and temporary workers.
Cheers
gary
From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 12:39:52 -0700
Subject: Re: RE: Firestone Tires
I heard that on this morning's news. And, according to a company spokesman,
"the strike had no affect on this recall issue".
Coop
>From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
> Another interesting note from this morning's news-- every one of the tires
> that delaminated was manufactured at one Firestone plant and during a
period
> when workers at that plant were out on strike and the assembly line was
being
> run by managers and temporary workers.
> Cheers
> gary
>
From "S.HUTCHINGS" <hutching at myna.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 15:47:47 -0400
Subject: Ignition wires
Should the solid copper ignition wires have resistors, or not.?...I'm told
no, but I want to be sure.
Stephen, BJ8
From skip saunders <tfs at mitre.org>
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 15:51:29 -0400
Subject: Re: Ignition wires
depends on whether you have a radio or not... the resistors reduce the
static on the radio...
-Skip-
"S.HUTCHINGS" wrote:
>
> Should the solid copper ignition wires have resistors, or not.?...I'm told
> no, but I want to be sure.
> Stephen, BJ8
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 16:00:36 -0400
Subject: Re: Brake calipers
Bruce Starke wrote:
> Another question for the knowledgeable list::
> I need to get new brake calipers---will the BJ8 calipers bolt straight onto
> an earlier car viz. my tricarb or do I have to get the correct ones? The
> reason for this is that the BJ8 has bigger pads and better braking (I think)
> and they are cheaper as well!
> Thanks
> BRUCE STARKE
> Tricarb
Hi Bruce.
The bolt spacing on the later caliper is greater by 1/4"
The disc thickness on the BJ8 is greater by 1/8"
The BJ8 hub is also different as is the stub axle which has intergral caliper
mounts
The ony way I know is to change everything form the King pin out.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From "Pagel, John" <John.Pagel at imotors.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 13:08:48 -0700
Subject: RE: RE: Firestone Tires
So, here we are, everybody is saying that all these tires are bad
from '92 to the present...... That was a long strike!!!! Hope the union
had a good strike fund. So which is it? Some tires made by replacement
workers or all tires made by Firestone? I'm hearing all kinds of things here
going in all directions. This is a firestorm of accusation. It needs to
end.
-----Original Message-----
From: Coop1 [mailto:coop1@dnai.com]
Sent: Monday, August 14, 2000 12:40 PM
To: Editorgary@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: RE: Firestone Tires
I heard that on this morning's news. And, according to a company spokesman,
"the strike had no affect on this recall issue".
Coop
>From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
> Another interesting note from this morning's news-- every one of the tires
> that delaminated was manufactured at one Firestone plant and during a
period
> when workers at that plant were out on strike and the assembly line was
being
> run by managers and temporary workers.
> Cheers
> gary
>
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 13:55:02 -0700
Subject: RE: Firestone Tires
Here is the AP story.
Updated 9:04 AM ET August 14, 2000
By PHIL WEST, AP Business Writer
NASHVILLE, Tenn. (AP) - Workers at a Firestone plant in Illinois were on
strike during the time many of the 6.5 million tires now being recalled
were made, according to an analysis by Ford Motor Co.
"When we looked at this data, we said, 'There's something wrong here,"'
Jason Vines, Ford's vice president for communications, said during a
teleconference Sunday with
reporters and tire company officials.
Most of the tires recalled last week - radial ATX, radial ATX II and
some Wilderness AT brands - are on
Ford sport utility vehicles and light trucks. And most of those tires
were built at the Decatur, Ill., plant
from 1994 to 1996, Ford said.
At the time, United Rubber Workers union members were on strike, and the
plant was operating with
replacement workers and managers.
The strike began in July 1994. After 10 months, the union offered to
return to work without a contract,
but the company continued to use mostly replacement workers until a
final agreement was reached in
late 1996.
Bridgestone/Firestone said the strike had nothing to do with the problems.
"That's a pretty far reach," spokeswoman Christine Karbowiak said.
Still, "anything is possible," she
said. Karbowiak said the Decatur plant has received quality
certification from external experts as well
as from Ford, General Motors and Nissan.
The Washington Post reported that six former Decatur plant workers claim
questionable quality control
procedures were used at the plant in the mid-1990s.
Ford conducted an analysis of its Firestone tires and the complaints it
had received to pin down where
the tires were made and what may have caused the treads on some to
separate.
The automaker, which used Firestone data, also released documents
indicating that complaints about
certain Bridgestone/Firestone tires had begun increasing by 1997. Ford
said Bridgestone did not pass
the information along.
Vines said the number of complaints was 10 times higher for the 15-inch
ATX tires made in Decatur
than for the Wilderness tires. "The data and the analysis of the data is
that there's a problem with
Decatur and that other plants are world class," he said.
The No. 2 automaker was expected to release more detailed statistics
Monday. Firestone's tires are
being investigated by federal officials in connection with more than 300
accidents and the deaths of at
least 46 people.
Larry Werve, who has worked at the Decatur plant for 29 years and is
publicity chairman for United
Steelworkers Local 713, said replacement workers shouldn't be held
responsible.
"Even those workers were required to work to standards and their work
was monitored by
management," said Werve, whose union merged with the Rubber Workers in
1995.
He said union workers had felt singled out by the recall.
"We never denied we made some of the tires. I just think proportionally,
the figures don't support that we
made all of them," he said. "As far as workmanship, I don't think that
played into it. We made tires to
(the company's) specifications."
"I don't know anyone working there who would intentionally put out a bad
product," he said.
In full-page ads in major newspapers, Ford spelled out that just 15-inch
versions of the ATX, ATX II and
some Wilderness tires are affected by the recall.
The Ford analysis of Firestone tires said the number of claims - based
on property damage, personal
injury and lawsuits - was as low at 31 for some Firestone original
equipment tires. But the 15-inch tires
had 2,030 claims, including 113 this year.
Of that number, 1,864 involved the ATX tires, Ford said.
Texas had the highest number of complaints, about 370. Arizona reported
about 280 claims while
about 230 were recorded in California and 170 in Florida.
"We've got such a high volume of tires that looking for the root cause
of the problem is like looking for a
needle in a haystack," Bridgestone's Karbowiak said.
The tires involved in the recall are P235/75R15 Firestone radial ATX and
radial ATX II tires and
Wilderness AT tires carrying the code "VD." Most of the tires recalled
were on Ford vehicles.
---
At 01:08 PM 8/14/00 , Pagel, John wrote:
> So, here we are, everybody is saying that all these tires are bad
>from '92 to the present...... That was a long strike!!!! Hope the union
>had a good strike fund. So which is it? Some tires made by replacement
>workers or all tires made by Firestone? I'm hearing all kinds of things here
>going in all directions. This is a firestorm of accusation. It needs to
>end.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Coop1 [mailto:coop1@dnai.com]
>Sent: Monday, August 14, 2000 12:40 PM
>To: Editorgary@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: RE: Firestone Tires
>
>
>
>I heard that on this morning's news. And, according to a company spokesman,
>"the strike had no affect on this recall issue".
>Coop
>
> >From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
> > Another interesting note from this morning's news-- every one of the tires
> > that delaminated was manufactured at one Firestone plant and during a
>period
> > when workers at that plant were out on strike and the assembly line was
>being
> > run by managers and temporary workers.
> > Cheers
> > gary
> >
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 18:18:20 EDT
Subject: Re: Ignition wires
In a message dated 8/14/00 1:05:08 PM, hutching@myna.com writes:
<<
Should the solid copper ignition wires have resistors, or not.?...I'm told
no, but I want to be sure.
Stephen, BJ8 >>
You don't need resistors unless you want to listen to your in-dash CD player
without static (you do have an in-dash CD player, don't you?)
Cheers
Gary
From "Richard E. Pratt" <prattri at email.msn.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 18:44:26 -0400
Subject: BJ8 Frame alignment Diagram.
Hi Lister,
Does anyone know of a source for the subject diagram.
TIA
Richard Pratt
65 BJ8
Cincinnati, OH
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 18:49:08 EDT
Subject: Re: Monterey Historics and McDonald's
In a message dated 8/14/00 8:43:25 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
JustBrits@aol.com writes:
<<
<< Who is going to volunteer to stick the pot roast on the manifold for
Monterey and complete the experiment? >>
YOU, Jon !! The MG will do it whilst you motor up the coast. Just allow
another hour, I would guess!!
Bon apetite !! >>
Jon,
The technic and receipt for cooking on a hot Healey engine manifold is
described the October 1990 issue of Austin Healey Magazine. No excuses now,
just go to you back issues. Bring a few extra forks and plates so we can all
sample it. Just set us know what time you will arrive on Saturday so we can
get it while it is hot!!
John
!00-Six Erika the Red
From BGAHC at aol.com
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 19:18:35 EDT
Subject: Re: Monterey Historics and McDonald's
> Austin Healey Magazine. No excuses now,
> just go to you back issues
Reminds me of something I was looking for this weekend. Is the index page of
Austin Healey Magazine / Healey Highlights articles still online? It was
great to use but my URL doesn't work anymore.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
1957 BN4 Rally Car
1966 BJ8
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 19:57:04 -0400
Subject: Re: BJ8 Frame alignment Diagram.
"Richard E. Pratt" wrote:
> Hi Lister,
> Does anyone know of a source for the subject diagram.
> TIA
> Richard Pratt
> 65 BJ8
> Cincinnati, OH
Factory workshop Manual. Section R
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
From "tom.sue.gebhart" <tom.sue.gebhart at netzero.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 19:27:10 -0500
Subject: RE: Towing
I don't know about a car dolly. But back in 1975 I towed our 67 BJ8
from
Merced, Ca to Sault St Marie, MI with a home built tow bar. A friend of
mine helped me with the welding and we made brackets that bolt to the inside
of the frame (the tapped nuts are already there opposite the ones on the
outside that the bumper brackets bolt to). I put the tranmission in neutral
and never had a problem. I disconnected the speedometer so I wouldn't show
a couple thousand miles that were actually on the car but not on the engine.
I never could figure out how to correctly connect the Healey's lights to
the lights on the 71 Ambassador (I think I could get brakes or turn signals
but never both, I forget). So I bought a trailer light kit, mounted the
trailer lights to a narrow board that I duck taped to the Healey rear bumper
(inside the bumper overriders for support) and ran the wiring up over the
fender along the passenger side (that way I could still get into the car on
the driver's side). We even loaded the car with stuff we didn't want in the
wagon (as if the Healey was a trailer).
It followed us faithfully over the mountains in California, the desert
in
Nevada and Utah, the mountains again in Colorado, through the amber waves of
grain on the great plains of Nebraska (and God's country, Iowa), across
America's dairyland in Wisconsin and into the woodlands of Michican's UP.
One other time I towed it from Sault St Marie to Dubuque, Ia and then drove
it back to MI.
The only limitation I can remember was that you couldn't backup with the
towbar the way you can with a trailer, so you had to plan where you parked
so you could drive out and not have to back out. You can back short
distances very slowly, but be ready to stop quickly if the Healey front
wheels start to turn too fast and lock to one side or the other. That's not
a problem going forward because of the built in caster in the suspension
system.
Good luck, Tom Gebhart.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of John Sims
Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2000 10:56 AM
To: Healey List
Subject: Towing
I need the collective wisdom of the list.
I am going to be towing my BN6 using a car dolly. Do I hve to disconnect the
drive shaft or can I just put the transmission in neutral for the tow??
Thanks in avance.
John Sims, BN6
Las Vegas
____________NetZero Free Internet Access and Email_________
Download Now http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html
Request a CDROM 1-800-333-3633
___________________________________________________________
From "Richard E. Pratt" <prattri at email.msn.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 20:39:54 -0400
Subject: RE: BJ8 Frame alignment Diagram.
Mike,
My copy of the manual, Section "R" has only up to BJ7( page R2 & R3). If I
am correct, BJ8 has a drop frame under the rear axel. Does your manual have
a diagram for a BJ8?
TIA
Richard
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Krazy Kiwi
> Sent: Monday, August 14, 2000 7:57 PM
> To: Richard E. Pratt
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: BJ8 Frame alignment Diagram.
>
>
>
>
>
> "Richard E. Pratt" wrote:
>
> > Hi Lister,
> > Does anyone know of a source for the subject diagram.
> > TIA
> > Richard Pratt
> > 65 BJ8
> > Cincinnati, OH
>
> Factory workshop Manual. Section R
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>
>
>
From JXLmail at aol.com
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 20:48:27 EDT
Subject: Re: Monterey Historics and McDonald's
If you guys see a guy with a purple backpack and a pot roast strapped to his
chest, that's me, stop by and say hi.
Jim L.
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 18:28:35 -0700
Subject: Re: Towing
Many years ago I flat towed (w/ a tow bar) my 1960 BT7 from Corvallis, OR;
to Taft, CA (the oil fields where I had a new job). There were no
problems, towed at 70 mph, and on arrival, it ran just great.
John Snyder
'60 BT7
'61 BN7 MK2
'62 BT7 MK2
----------
> From: tom.sue.gebhart <tom.sue.gebhart@netzero.net>
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: RE: Towing
> Date: Monday, August 14, 2000 5:27 PM
>
>
> I don't know about a car dolly. But back in 1975 I towed our 67 BJ8
from
> Merced, Ca to Sault St Marie, MI with a home built tow bar. A friend of
> mine helped me with the welding and we made brackets that bolt to the
inside
> of the frame (the tapped nuts are already there opposite the ones on the
> outside that the bumper brackets bolt to). I put the tranmission in
neutral
> and never had a problem. I disconnected the speedometer so I wouldn't
show
> a couple thousand miles that were actually on the car but not on the
engine.
>
> I never could figure out how to correctly connect the Healey's lights to
> the lights on the 71 Ambassador (I think I could get brakes or turn
signals
> but never both, I forget). So I bought a trailer light kit, mounted the
> trailer lights to a narrow board that I duck taped to the Healey rear
bumper
> (inside the bumper overriders for support) and ran the wiring up over the
> fender along the passenger side (that way I could still get into the car
on
> the driver's side). We even loaded the car with stuff we didn't want in
the
> wagon (as if the Healey was a trailer).
>
> It followed us faithfully over the mountains in California, the desert
in
> Nevada and Utah, the mountains again in Colorado, through the amber waves
of
> grain on the great plains of Nebraska (and God's country, Iowa), across
> America's dairyland in Wisconsin and into the woodlands of Michican's UP.
> One other time I towed it from Sault St Marie to Dubuque, Ia and then
drove
> it back to MI.
>
> The only limitation I can remember was that you couldn't backup with the
> towbar the way you can with a trailer, so you had to plan where you
parked
> so you could drive out and not have to back out. You can back short
> distances very slowly, but be ready to stop quickly if the Healey front
> wheels start to turn too fast and lock to one side or the other. That's
not
> a problem going forward because of the built in caster in the suspension
> system.
>
> Good luck, Tom Gebhart.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of John Sims
> Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2000 10:56 AM
> To: Healey List
> Subject: Towing
>
>
>
> I need the collective wisdom of the list.
>
> I am going to be towing my BN6 using a car dolly. Do I hve to disconnect
the
> drive shaft or can I just put the transmission in neutral for the tow??
>
> Thanks in avance.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Las Vegas
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ____________NetZero Free Internet Access and Email_________
> Download Now http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html
> Request a CDROM 1-800-333-3633
> ___________________________________________________________
From "rons" <arjayarjay at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2000 07:38:53 +0000
Subject: Re: Firestone Tires
The WSJ had it that 6.5 million tires is a year's worth of inventory for
Firestone. No non- strikers or 'scabs' from that single plant could have
made that many tires during surely what must have been a strike of less than
a year. . Let's face it, there's much disinformation going on in this story.
All of it eminates from corporate America.
Not only that but other sources have it that Ford says they never heard
about the failing tires until the last couple of weeks, that all of the
complaints went straight to Bridgestone who did nothing about them.
Now, who's kidding whom? Do you, for one minute, think that nobody called
Ford, that no dissatisfied customer went back to his or her Ford dealer to
complain? That's also ridiculous on the face of it.
It doesn't really matter though, since Ford and Bridgestone are putting out
so many unreliable 'facts' that we're all confused. Which, of course, is
exactly what they want. Witness the discontent already evident on the Healey
list! Some people here don't want to bother their heads about it, others
want to stop all the discussion. Divide and conquer is an old American
corporate technique. Is it working this time, just read the responses on
this list.
----------
>From: Bill Katz <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
>To: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: RE: Firestone Tires
>Date: Mon, Aug 14, 2000, 8:55 PM
>
>
> Here is the AP story.
>
> Updated 9:04 AM ET August 14, 2000
>
>
> By PHIL WEST, AP Business Writer
>
> NASHVILLE, Tenn. (AP) - Workers at a Firestone plant in Illinois were on
> strike during the time many of the 6.5 million tires now being recalled
> were made, according to an analysis by Ford Motor Co.
>
> "When we looked at this data, we said, 'There's something wrong here,"'
> Jason Vines, Ford's vice president for communications, said during a
> teleconference Sunday with
> reporters and tire company officials.
>
> Most of the tires recalled last week - radial ATX, radial ATX II and
> some Wilderness AT brands - are on
> Ford sport utility vehicles and light trucks. And most of those tires
> were built at the Decatur, Ill., plant
> from 1994 to 1996, Ford said.
>
> At the time, United Rubber Workers union members were on strike, and the
> plant was operating with
> replacement workers and managers.
>
> The strike began in July 1994. After 10 months, the union offered to
> return to work without a contract,
> but the company continued to use mostly replacement workers until a
> final agreement was reached in
> late 1996.
>
> Bridgestone/Firestone said the strike had nothing to do with the problems.
>
> "That's a pretty far reach," spokeswoman Christine Karbowiak said.
> Still, "anything is possible," she
> said. Karbowiak said the Decatur plant has received quality
> certification from external experts as well
> as from Ford, General Motors and Nissan.
>
> The Washington Post reported that six former Decatur plant workers claim
> questionable quality control
> procedures were used at the plant in the mid-1990s.
>
> Ford conducted an analysis of its Firestone tires and the complaints it
> had received to pin down where
> the tires were made and what may have caused the treads on some to
> separate.
>
> The automaker, which used Firestone data, also released documents
> indicating that complaints about
> certain Bridgestone/Firestone tires had begun increasing by 1997. Ford
> said Bridgestone did not pass
> the information along.
>
> Vines said the number of complaints was 10 times higher for the 15-inch
> ATX tires made in Decatur
> than for the Wilderness tires. "The data and the analysis of the data is
> that there's a problem with
> Decatur and that other plants are world class," he said.
>
> The No. 2 automaker was expected to release more detailed statistics
> Monday. Firestone's tires are
> being investigated by federal officials in connection with more than 300
> accidents and the deaths of at
> least 46 people.
>
> Larry Werve, who has worked at the Decatur plant for 29 years and is
> publicity chairman for United
> Steelworkers Local 713, said replacement workers shouldn't be held
> responsible.
>
> "Even those workers were required to work to standards and their work
> was monitored by
> management," said Werve, whose union merged with the Rubber Workers in
> 1995.
>
> He said union workers had felt singled out by the recall.
>
> "We never denied we made some of the tires. I just think proportionally,
> the figures don't support that we
> made all of them," he said. "As far as workmanship, I don't think that
> played into it. We made tires to
> (the company's) specifications."
>
> "I don't know anyone working there who would intentionally put out a bad
> product," he said.
>
> In full-page ads in major newspapers, Ford spelled out that just 15-inch
> versions of the ATX, ATX II and
> some Wilderness tires are affected by the recall.
>
> The Ford analysis of Firestone tires said the number of claims - based
> on property damage, personal
> injury and lawsuits - was as low at 31 for some Firestone original
> equipment tires. But the 15-inch tires
> had 2,030 claims, including 113 this year.
>
> Of that number, 1,864 involved the ATX tires, Ford said.
>
> Texas had the highest number of complaints, about 370. Arizona reported
> about 280 claims while
> about 230 were recorded in California and 170 in Florida.
>
> "We've got such a high volume of tires that looking for the root cause
> of the problem is like looking for a
> needle in a haystack," Bridgestone's Karbowiak said.
>
> The tires involved in the recall are P235/75R15 Firestone radial ATX and
> radial ATX II tires and
> Wilderness AT tires carrying the code "VD." Most of the tires recalled
> were on Ford vehicles.
>
> ---
> At 01:08 PM 8/14/00 , Pagel, John wrote:
>
>> So, here we are, everybody is saying that all these tires are bad
>>from '92 to the present...... That was a long strike!!!! Hope the union
>>had a good strike fund. So which is it? Some tires made by replacement
>>workers or all tires made by Firestone? I'm hearing all kinds of things here
>>going in all directions. This is a firestorm of accusation. It needs to
>>end.
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: Coop1 [mailto:coop1@dnai.com]
>>Sent: Monday, August 14, 2000 12:40 PM
>>To: Editorgary@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
>>Subject: Re: RE: Firestone Tires
>>
>>
>>
>>I heard that on this morning's news. And, according to a company spokesman,
>>"the strike had no affect on this recall issue".
>>Coop
>>
>> >From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
>> > Another interesting note from this morning's news-- every one of the tires
>> > that delaminated was manufactured at one Firestone plant and during a
>>period
>> > when workers at that plant were out on strike and the assembly line was
>>being
>> > run by managers and temporary workers.
>> > Cheers
>> > gary
>> >
>
From pcowper at webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 21:18:08 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Monterey Historics and McDonalds
What's this pot roast business??? Come on, we are 1990+ California
types . . . how about someone with a plugged radiator, retarded timing
and an intake leak throwing some breakfast burritos wrapped in foil on
their manifold for our Pit Row feast?
Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2000 00:35:16 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: RE: RE: Firestone Tires
John
Why does "It" have to stop?
Fresh Air and Sunlight will disinfect this whole Mess and bring out the Truth.
Surely you agree that that will benefit everyone - including
Firestone/Bridgestone and Ford.
Or maybe you don't ????
DickB
---- you wrote:
>
> So, here we are, everybody is saying that all these tires are bad
> from '92 to the present...... That was a long strike!!!! Hope the union
> had a good strike fund. So which is it? Some tires made by replacement
> workers or all tires made by Firestone? I'm hearing all kinds of things here
> going in all directions. This is a firestorm of accusation. It needs to
> end.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Coop1 [mailto:coop1@dnai.com]
> Sent: Monday, August 14, 2000 12:40 PM
> To: Editorgary@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: RE: Firestone Tires
>
>
>
> I heard that on this morning's news. And, according to a company spokesman,
> "the strike had no affect on this recall issue".
> Coop
>
> >From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
> > Another interesting note from this morning's news-- every one of the tires
> > that delaminated was manufactured at one Firestone plant and during a
> period
> > when workers at that plant were out on strike and the assembly line was
> being
> > run by managers and temporary workers.
> > Cheers
> > gary
> >
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From "Brad Weldon" <brad at bradw.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 22:45:39 -0700
Subject: RE: Monterey Historics and McDonald's
Sorry Jim, but the magazine index didn't get converted to the new site
design (yet!), but it's on the "to do" list!
Brad
55 bn1
ahcusa webmaster
http://www.healey.org/
> ... Is the index page of
> Austin Healey Magazine / Healey Highlights articles still
> online? It was
> great to use but my URL doesn't work anymore.
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim Werner
> Louisville, KY
> 1957 BN4 Rally Car
> 1966 BJ8
>
From "Karlsson Magnus" <healey at telia.com>
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2000 10:02:06 +0200
Subject: SV: Brake calipers
Mike and Bruce,
It is no problem to fit a BJ8 disc to a BJ7 and earlier hub.
In my previous posting regarding the caliper question I forgot to mention that
if you change to metric Girling calipers the disc also have to bee changed.
It´s straightforward, you get better brakes and the possibility to fit
competition pads that are readily available. The metric caliper is very similar
in appearance to the BJ8 caliper.
Magnus Karlsson
SWEDEN
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael Salter <magicare@home.com>
To: Bruce Starke <bstarke@redshift.bc.ca>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 14, 2000 10:00 PM
Subject: Re: Brake calipers
>
> Bruce Starke wrote:
>
> > Another question for the knowledgeable list::
> > I need to get new brake calipers---will the BJ8 calipers bolt straight onto
> > an earlier car viz. my tricarb or do I have to get the correct ones? The
> > reason for this is that the BJ8 has bigger pads and better braking (I think)
> > and they are cheaper as well!
> > Thanks
> > BRUCE STARKE
> > Tricarb
>
> Hi Bruce.
> The bolt spacing on the later caliper is greater by 1/4"
> The disc thickness on the BJ8 is greater by 1/8"
> The BJ8 hub is also different as is the stub axle which has intergral caliper
> mounts
> The ony way I know is to change everything form the King pin out.
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>
>
From "John Rowe" <jarowe at connect.comdek.net.au>
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2000 18:14:43 +0800
Subject: Re: calipers for rear brakes
Hi All
Just continuing this brake thread to the next step.
What type of caliper and disc can be used on the rear of a BT7 or I presume
any other 3000?
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
BT7 in resto
----- Original Message -----
From: Karlsson Magnus <healey@telia.com>
To: Healey Lista <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2000 4:02 PM
Subject: SV: Brake calipers
>
> Mike and Bruce,
>
> It is no problem to fit a BJ8 disc to a BJ7 and earlier hub.
>
> In my previous posting regarding the caliper question I forgot to mention
that if you change to metric Girling calipers the disc also have to bee
changed. It´s straightforward, you get better brakes and the possibility to
fit competition pads that are readily available. The metric caliper is very
similar in appearance to the BJ8 caliper.
>
> Magnus Karlsson
> SWEDEN
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Michael Salter <magicare@home.com>
> To: Bruce Starke <bstarke@redshift.bc.ca>
> Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, August 14, 2000 10:00 PM
> Subject: Re: Brake calipers
>
>
> >
> > Bruce Starke wrote:
> >
> > > Another question for the knowledgeable list::
> > > I need to get new brake calipers---will the BJ8 calipers bolt straight
onto
> > > an earlier car viz. my tricarb or do I have to get the correct ones?
The
> > > reason for this is that the BJ8 has bigger pads and better braking (I
think)
> > > and they are cheaper as well!
> > > Thanks
> > > BRUCE STARKE
> > > Tricarb
> >
> > Hi Bruce.
> > The bolt spacing on the later caliper is greater by 1/4"
> > The disc thickness on the BJ8 is greater by 1/8"
> > The BJ8 hub is also different as is the stub axle which has intergral
caliper
> > mounts
> > The ony way I know is to change everything form the King pin out.
> > --
> > Regards,
> >
> > Mike Salter
> > http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> > >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> >
> >
>
>
From BGAHC at aol.com
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2000 07:17:57 EDT
Subject: Domain names
Seeking the wisdom of the list for my web site. I would like to establish a
domain name and have no idea how this works. Can anyone recommend a service?
Several are out there but I am sure someone on the list has actually sorted
through all of this before. Anyone had experience with a domain name and
using an AOL website or does it matter?
Appreciate any tips.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
1957 BN4 Rally Car
1966 BJ8
From "Phil Nase" <pnase at enter.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2000 07:49:51 -0400
Subject: rear hub extensions
I installed new rear hub extensions on by 55 BN1 last evening. The old ones
came off very easily and it was a non-event. I got to thinking later though
that I really didn't inspect the new ones before installation. I looked
them over but really did not look for cracks or other imperfections.
They are new from Moss. How careful does one have to be. Is feeling for
cracks from the outside and visually inspecting from the outside going to be
good enough? Should I pull them off and really look them over.
Phil
Quakertown, Pa
From "Rick Lees" <rlees at rideshare.com>
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2000 07:57:10 -0400
Subject: Domain names
Hi Jim,
I would recommend you go to the site http://www.directnic.com/. This site
will let you search for names and register them for $15.00 per year.
Good Luck,
Rick Lees
58 BN4
71 SIII 2+2
From "Donald L. Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2000 08:06:32 -0500
Subject: Coil Suspect
I static timed my BN7 and it starts with a roar. Took it for a test drive
and it ran fine for the first two miles then started missing. Should I
suspect fuel pump or coil?
Someone told me that after the engine warms up and the coil gets hot that
the coil may act up.
Is there a way to test a coil to see if it is up to par or playing bogey??
Don
BN7
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2000 09:09:16 EDT
Subject: Re: Monterey Historics and McDonalds
In a message dated 8/14/2000 23:35:55 Central Daylight Time,
pcowper@webtv.net writes:
<< how about someone with a plugged radiator, retarded timing
and an intake leak >>
This is just the car to prepare Cajun Blackened chicken or any road kill you
may find.
About four years ago at the NTAHC annual Cuny hanger party we had a Road Kill
and grill. Look in an old Chatter, article was printed about it. We had a
menu and grilling tips for all type of road kill.
It really does work!
Don
NTAHC
From rscaglione at safjp.gov.ar
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2000 10:43:05 -0300
Subject: Weber filters
Hi gang
I had problems with my e mail address, so I am repeting my question.
Please if any of you knows a reliable Weber Carbs dealer to buy a pair of
filters for my dual pair of Webers 40 DCOE sidedrafts carbs. I would
appreciate that information.
Thanks again
Rob
From "Michael Lupynec" <mlupynec at globalserve.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2000 10:44:09 -0400
Subject: Re: Firestone Tires
Mr. Rons, you got my vote to immediately take control of any multi
billion corporation.
Before you say that's too easy, be reminded that in Corporate
America, just simple decisions on introducing product improvements
are now carefully reviewed to evaluate the odds of a potential
lawsuit claiming this proves you had prior knowledge of an
existing defect in the current product line.
As CEO of a 10,000 person empire I'm sure you would have all the
operations, QC and warranty facts (black and white, of course) in
front of you, all on one page. With input from your CFO and dozens
of politicized VP's, securities lawyers and litigation
specialists, the PR and IR crowd, and Board approvals; you would
then strike that perfect balance between your legal
responsibilities, shareholder value, customer satisfaction and
what to tell the wife.
Once you've done that - then move on and employ that "old American
corporate technique" - "divide and conquer".
Mike L.
60A,67E,59Bug
----- Original Message -----
From: rons <arjayarjay@worldnet.att.net>
To: Bill Katz <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: August 15, 2000 3:38 AM
Subject: Re: Firestone Tires
>
> The WSJ had it that 6.5 million tires is a year's worth of
inventory for
> Firestone. No non- strikers or 'scabs' from that single plant
could have
> made that many tires during surely what must have been a strike
of less than
> a year. . Let's face it, there's much disinformation going on in
this story.
> All of it eminates from corporate America.
>
> Not only that but other sources have it that Ford says they
never heard
> about the failing tires until the last couple of weeks, that all
of the
> complaints went straight to Bridgestone who did nothing about
them.
>
> Now, who's kidding whom? Do you, for one minute, think that
nobody called
> Ford, that no dissatisfied customer went back to his or her Ford
dealer to
> complain? That's also ridiculous on the face of it.
>
> It doesn't really matter though, since Ford and Bridgestone are
putting out
> so many unreliable 'facts' that we're all confused. Which, of
course, is
> exactly what they want. Witness the discontent already evident
on the Healey
> list! Some people here don't want to bother their heads about
it, others
> want to stop all the discussion. Divide and conquer is an old
American
> corporate technique. Is it working this time, just read the
responses on
> this list.
>
> ----------
> >From: Bill Katz <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
> >To: healeys@autox.team.net
> >Subject: RE: Firestone Tires
> >Date: Mon, Aug 14, 2000, 8:55 PM
> >
>
> >
> > Here is the AP story.
> >
> > Updated 9:04 AM ET August 14, 2000
> >
> >
> > By PHIL WEST, AP Business Writer
> >
> > NASHVILLE, Tenn. (AP) - Workers at a Firestone plant in
Illinois were on
> > strike during the time many of the 6.5 million tires now
being recalled
> > were made, according to an analysis by Ford Motor Co.
> >
> > "When we looked at this data, we said, 'There's something
wrong here,"'
> > Jason Vines, Ford's vice president for communications, said
during a
> > teleconference Sunday with
> > reporters and tire company officials.
> >
> > Most of the tires recalled last week - radial ATX, radial
ATX II and
> > some Wilderness AT brands - are on
> > Ford sport utility vehicles and light trucks. And most of
those tires
> > were built at the Decatur, Ill., plant
> > from 1994 to 1996, Ford said.
> >
> > At the time, United Rubber Workers union members were on
strike, and the
> > plant was operating with
> > replacement workers and managers.
> >
> > The strike began in July 1994. After 10 months, the union
offered to
> > return to work without a contract,
> > but the company continued to use mostly replacement workers
until a
> > final agreement was reached in
> > late 1996.
> >
> > Bridgestone/Firestone said the strike had nothing to do
with the problems.
> >
> > "That's a pretty far reach," spokeswoman Christine
Karbowiak said.
> > Still, "anything is possible," she
> > said. Karbowiak said the Decatur plant has received quality
> > certification from external experts as well
> > as from Ford, General Motors and Nissan.
> >
> > The Washington Post reported that six former Decatur plant
workers claim
> > questionable quality control
> > procedures were used at the plant in the mid-1990s.
> >
> > Ford conducted an analysis of its Firestone tires and the
complaints it
> > had received to pin down where
> > the tires were made and what may have caused the treads on
some to
> > separate.
> >
> > The automaker, which used Firestone data, also released
documents
> > indicating that complaints about
> > certain Bridgestone/Firestone tires had begun increasing by
1997. Ford
> > said Bridgestone did not pass
> > the information along.
> >
> > Vines said the number of complaints was 10 times higher for
the 15-inch
> > ATX tires made in Decatur
> > than for the Wilderness tires. "The data and the analysis
of the data is
> > that there's a problem with
> > Decatur and that other plants are world class," he said.
> >
> > The No. 2 automaker was expected to release more detailed
statistics
> > Monday. Firestone's tires are
> > being investigated by federal officials in connection with
more than 300
> > accidents and the deaths of at
> > least 46 people.
> >
> > Larry Werve, who has worked at the Decatur plant for 29
years and is
> > publicity chairman for United
> > Steelworkers Local 713, said replacement workers shouldn't
be held
> > responsible.
> >
> > "Even those workers were required to work to standards and
their work
> > was monitored by
> > management," said Werve, whose union merged with the Rubber
Workers in
> > 1995.
> >
> > He said union workers had felt singled out by the recall.
> >
> > "We never denied we made some of the tires. I just think
proportionally,
> > the figures don't support that we
> > made all of them," he said. "As far as workmanship, I don't
think that
> > played into it. We made tires to
> > (the company's) specifications."
> >
> > "I don't know anyone working there who would intentionally
put out a bad
> > product," he said.
> >
> > In full-page ads in major newspapers, Ford spelled out that
just 15-inch
> > versions of the ATX, ATX II and
> > some Wilderness tires are affected by the recall.
> >
> > The Ford analysis of Firestone tires said the number of
claims - based
> > on property damage, personal
> > injury and lawsuits - was as low at 31 for some Firestone
original
> > equipment tires. But the 15-inch tires
> > had 2,030 claims, including 113 this year.
> >
> > Of that number, 1,864 involved the ATX tires, Ford said.
> >
> > Texas had the highest number of complaints, about 370.
Arizona reported
> > about 280 claims while
> > about 230 were recorded in California and 170 in Florida.
> >
> > "We've got such a high volume of tires that looking for the
root cause
> > of the problem is like looking for a
> > needle in a haystack," Bridgestone's Karbowiak said.
> >
> > The tires involved in the recall are P235/75R15 Firestone
radial ATX and
> > radial ATX II tires and
> > Wilderness AT tires carrying the code "VD." Most of the
tires recalled
> > were on Ford vehicles.
> >
> > ---
> > At 01:08 PM 8/14/00 , Pagel, John wrote:
> >
> >> So, here we are, everybody is saying that all these
tires are bad
> >>from '92 to the present...... That was a long strike!!!!
Hope the union
> >>had a good strike fund. So which is it? Some tires made by
replacement
> >>workers or all tires made by Firestone? I'm hearing all kinds
of things here
> >>going in all directions. This is a firestorm of accusation.
It needs to
> >>end.
> >>
> >>-----Original Message-----
> >>From: Coop1 [mailto:coop1@dnai.com]
> >>Sent: Monday, August 14, 2000 12:40 PM
> >>To: Editorgary@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
> >>Subject: Re: RE: Firestone Tires
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>I heard that on this morning's news. And, according to a
company spokesman,
> >>"the strike had no affect on this recall issue".
> >>Coop
> >>
> >> >From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
> >> > Another interesting note from this morning's news-- every
one of the tires
> >> > that delaminated was manufactured at one Firestone plant
and during a
> >>period
> >> > when workers at that plant were out on strike and the
assembly line was
> >>being
> >> > run by managers and temporary workers.
> >> > Cheers
> >> > gary
> >> >
> >
>
From timoran at ticnet.com
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2000 14:42:41 GMT
Subject: Knockoff Knocked Off
8-15-2000
Guys
Here's one for you that is as serious as the "Bad Tire" discussions of
late, but IS Healey related.
I had my V8 Healey in a car show over the weekend. While driving home, I
stopped at a light at the top of a freeway off ramp. When the light turned
green, I slowly started across the intersection.
All of a sudden, I heard a KLUNK-Clang-ping. I have dropped enough
knockoffs onto the garage floor to know that sound !
My right front knockoff had fallen off onto the street. I pulled over and
stopped and picked it up and found that ALL of the internal threads had
been stripped out. It is a 1960, MK1, fine thread.
I shudder to think of what would have happened if it had come off earlier
while I was on the freeway.
A buddy drove me home to get another knock-off. It threaded on just fine
and I made it home Ok.
This was not a NEW knockoff and may have been overstressed by aggressive
hammering before I got it. Altho' I have a new lead hammer, I have yet to
use it. I tighten my knockoffs with a wooden spanner wrench.
I don't yet know what caused it to strip out, but it is a problem that has
to be diagnosed and fixed.
I suspect that the front splined hub may be worn and allowed the wheel to
rotate a spline or two when I braked to a stop. This could easily pull the
fine threads out of the knockoff.
This question may have just been answered, but if it turns out that the
front spline is worn and must be replaced, does anybody know if the later
years, course thread, hubs will fit my early MK1 splindles, rotors and
calipers or does EVERYTHING have to be changed in order to get the beefier,
course thread, knockoff ?
Speaking of BEEF…. On the lighter side,
This web site has a picture illustrated article about a guy cooking on his
engine.
http://weber.ucsd.edu/~mruben/cooking.html
This web site is a source for the book "Manifold Destiny". It is available
for $9.95 from
http://www.netstoreusa.com/hubooks/037/0375751408.shtml
While driving in the hot Dallas/Ft. Worth sun, (just B4 my knockoff fell
off) my temperature gauge was reading over 230. I made a great batch of
peanut butter cookies and a deep dish apple pie
;-).
I sure wish that I had a Texas Cooler………
Tim Moran
www.ntahc.austin1.com
www.modifiedhealeys.austin1.com - Max, # 1
From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2000 08:13:48 -0700
Subject: Re: Ignition wires
Speaking of ignition wires :>) I don't want to start up an old thread again
but some time back there was a discussion on "bumblebee competiton" spark
plug wire. If memory serves the consensus was that you folks really like
this stuff. I'm about to order some and wanted to know just how difficult it
is to replace the existing wire with the new on a BJ8. My old ignition wire
is still working fine but looks pretty shot. Any tricks or traps I should be
aware of. Also, can someone recommend one vendor over another for this wire
or is it all pretty much the same. Thanks in advance Randy
> <<
> Should the solid copper ignition wires have resistors, or not.?...I'm told
> no, but I want to be sure.
> Stephen, BJ8 >>
>
> You don't need resistors unless you want to listen to your in-dash CD
player
> without static (you do have an in-dash CD player, don't you?)
> Cheers
> Gary
>
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2000 08:29:53 -0700
Subject: Re: Domain names
I registered my other domains through register.com. They don't charge you
to do a search, just the standard $70/2yr. fee. They also give you a dummy
web page, which you can customize a little. You can't register an AOL
domain name, if that's what you are thinking. You'd have to get a "real"
ISP and have them host your site.
BK
--------------------------------
At 04:17 AM 8/15/00 , BGAHC@aol.com wrote:
>Seeking the wisdom of the list for my web site. I would like to establish a
>domain name and have no idea how this works. Can anyone recommend a service?
>Several are out there but I am sure someone on the list has actually sorted
>through all of this before. Anyone had experience with a domain name and
>using an AOL website or does it matter?
>
>Appreciate any tips.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Jim Werner
>Louisville, KY
>1957 BN4 Rally Car
>1966 BJ8
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2000 11:44:10 EDT
Subject: Re: Ignition wires
In a message dated 8/15/00 8:34:36 AM, coop1@dnai.com writes:
<< Any tricks or traps I should be
aware of. Also, can someone recommend one vendor over another for this wire
or is it all pretty much the same. Thanks in advance Randy >>
Pretty much the same. You buy it by the foot, which means you have to add
your own plug tips. Several suppliers have different kinds of repro British
looking tips (like "bowtie" Champions, etc.) and British Car Specialists
sells quite adequate generic straight plugs. It's not hard to install, but
surprisingly stiff. You could put numbers on the wires, but don't really
need to, because once it's bent into place, it keeps its shape and there
won't be any question which wire goes where.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
Editor, British Car Magazine
From "Scheuble, Fred J. ,HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2000 11:58:53 -0400
Subject: tires
Hi everyone,
I have a question concerning tires for the Healey, no not Firestone,
I am considering taking of my radials and putting OEM tires back on the
healey. Why you may ask? My main reason is road clearance and I don't drive
that aggressively that I would jeopardize my or others safety. Any thoughts,
pro's cons?
Thanks,
Fred
From John Trifari <john4 at home.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 21:11:08 -0700
Subject: Re: Coil Suspect
Don--if it just dies, check the fuel pump/carbs. If it "misses" or if
it backfires, chk the ignition, especially the LT wire that goes under
the distributor cap from the coil connection to the points. John
Trifari 1955 BN1/1965 BJ8
"Donald L. Yarber" wrote:
>
> I static timed my BN7 and it starts with a roar. Took it for a test drive
> and it ran fine for the first two miles then started missing. Should I
> suspect fuel pump or coil?
>
> Someone told me that after the engine warms up and the coil gets hot that
> the coil may act up.
>
> Is there a way to test a coil to see if it is up to par or playing bogey??
>
> Don
> BN7
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2000 09:30:08 -0700
Subject: Re: Domain names
I also used register.com but would consider using yahoo
http://domains.yahoo.com/ in the future because they offer free 'virtual
domain hosting'. This means you can link your new domain name to an
existing domain address (the free website space that is included with
your current ISP) This will save you the extra cost of another ISP.
Register.com also offers 'virtual domain hosting' but they add a
Register.com advertisement at the bottom or you can pay extra for
'virtual domain hosting' without the advertisement. Yahoo might do the
same so it's worth checking into. I'm not sure if you can link to an AOL
webspace so you should ask around.
You can check out my website to see what the advertising bar looks like.
http://www.loftusdesigninc.com/ (no healey content)
Cheers,
John
Bill Katz wrote:
>
> I registered my other domains through register.com. They don't charge you
> to do a search, just the standard $70/2yr. fee. They also give you a dummy
> web page, which you can customize a little. You can't register an AOL
> domain name, if that's what you are thinking. You'd have to get a "real"
> ISP and have them host your site.
>
> BK
> --------------------------------
> At 04:17 AM 8/15/00 , BGAHC@aol.com wrote:
>
> >Seeking the wisdom of the list for my web site. I would like to establish a
> >domain name and have no idea how this works. Can anyone recommend a service?
> >Several are out there but I am sure someone on the list has actually sorted
> >through all of this before. Anyone had experience with a domain name and
> >using an AOL website or does it matter?
> >
> >Appreciate any tips.
> >
> >Thanks,
> >
> >Jim Werner
> >Louisville, KY
> >1957 BN4 Rally Car
> >1966 BJ8
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2000 13:10:38 -0400
Subject: RE: Coil Suspect
Speaking of back-firing... I was out for about a 50 mile run over the
weekend. When downshifting or rolling down a hill I notice a lot of
backfiring through the exhaust, sometimes loud. Is this normal? I also
noticed that on acceleration she gets up pretty quick, but at about 4k on
the tach she starts missing a little. Does this sound like the timing is a
little off? I had a lot of trouble trying to set the timing, but the list
really helped out.
TIA,
Steve
61 BN7
-----Original Message-----
From: John Trifari [mailto:john4@home.com]
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2000 12:11 AM
To: Donald L. Yarber
Cc: Healey List
Subject: Re: Coil Suspect
Don--if it just dies, check the fuel pump/carbs. If it "misses" or if
it backfires, chk the ignition, especially the LT wire that goes under
the distributor cap from the coil connection to the points. John
Trifari 1955 BN1/1965 BJ8
"Donald L. Yarber" wrote:
>
> I static timed my BN7 and it starts with a roar. Took it for a test drive
> and it ran fine for the first two miles then started missing. Should I
> suspect fuel pump or coil?
>
> Someone told me that after the engine warms up and the coil gets hot that
> the coil may act up.
>
> Is there a way to test a coil to see if it is up to par or playing bogey??
>
> Don
> BN7
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2000 14:11:01 EDT
Subject: Re: tires
In a message dated 8/15/00 9:20:58 AM, fjscheuble@hiserv-na.com writes:
<<
Hi everyone,
I have a question concerning tires for the Healey, no not Firestone,
I am considering taking of my radials and putting OEM tires back on the
healey. Why you may ask? My main reason is road clearance and I don't drive
that aggressively that I would jeopardize my or others safety. Any thoughts,
pro's cons?
Thanks,
Fred >>
Assuming you're looking at getting Dunlop RS-5s
Pro: Terrific appearance, fun to drive if you like to drift corners
occasionally, speed-rated to 120 mph
Con: Expensive
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2000 11:44:20 -0700
Subject: Rocker Rollers
Hi all,
In my quest for Rocker Shaft rebuilding sources I spoke to Rocker Arm
Specialists in Anderson CA at 19841 Hirsch Court, Anderson, CA 96007
Tel. (530) 378-1075.
They are getting material together to produce Roller Rocker Arm
assemblies for Healeys within the next couple months. You supply your
old rocker arm assembly as a core and they will rebuild it with:
1. 2024 aluminium CNC machined Roller Rocker arms with roller tip. 1.5
exact ratio.
2. Resurfaced and hard chromed shaft (from your original)
3. Bronze bushings, honed to size (reaming is possible but claims the
honing process they use is better and no problems with embedded
particles)
4. New stock type adjusting screws
5. Reassembled
Price: approx. US$300.00 plus shipping (30 years in business and operate
at the wholesale level)
They claim the following advantages (please confirm, challenge or
correct as necessary):
a. The 1.5 ratio should give about 10 hp increase.
b. The valve guide wear should be greatly reduced with a roller
assembly.
c. Heavier valve springs can be used.
I told them I would post this to the list and find out how much interest
there is and if there are any requests for other modifications (1.6
ratio?, CNC support towers, accommodation for longer valve stem height,
etc.)
If you are interested in ordering, let me know so they can anticipate
production quantities. No financial interest, yadayada
Thanks,
John
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2000 14:50:42 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: tires
Fred
I think you'll find that the Dunlop SP20 in 165 x 15 is readily available from
TiresPlus, TireRack, etc and is the most modern design and also available for
$50 each or so, or even less and has good rain and dry characteristics.
I run them in autocross, and gymkanas once in a while and have no problems (my
problem is remembering the course as I'm driving it) - ;>)
BGAHC has a website devoted to tires. But I think that will turn out to be the
consensus for stock sizes.
DickB
---- you wrote:
>
> Hi everyone,
> I have a question concerning tires for the Healey, no not Firestone,
> I am considering taking of my radials and putting OEM tires back on the
> healey. Why you may ask? My main reason is road clearance and I don't drive
> that aggressively that I would jeopardize my or others safety. Any thoughts,
> pro's cons?
>
> Thanks,
> Fred
>
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From "Pagel, John" <John.Pagel at imotors.com>
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2000 11:59:21 -0700
Subject: RE: RE: Firestone Tires
Ok, I'll bite. Here is the e-mail sent to me...
Thanks for your "facts" John.. Why didn't you tell us where you got them?
You, my friend, arean Idiot if you think Firestone is blame-free or Ford for
that matter.
Why don't you tell the List what the "imotors" in your email address stands
for?
First, to your private e-mail asking where I got the "facts". The
same place all the "facts" in this debacle come from, the media. I saw an
interview with the man, a reporter asked him if the pressure in his tires
was correct, he answered in front of all the world, "I've never checked
'em" The same reporter also interviewed people who were at the site of
the accident. Two people reported that the SUV has just "zipped" around
them, changing lanes and driving very fast. Now, these facts carry no more
or less absolute truth than any of the others reported in the media, I'm
just telling you what I saw on TV.
As to your comment about iMotors, I'm employed here as an
automotive expert, I have Nothing to do with Firestone or Bridgestone, In
fact our company doesn't use their tires at all. What we do here is sell
used cars. And we do a damn find job of it (small plug).
I owned an alignment shop for 6 years and will continue to preach
the gospel of proper inflation. Often the reason a car was brought in for
an alignment was negligence, yes, one ft tire down at 10 psi. Vibration
complaints were almost always tread separation due to under inflation. I
can't count the times I had to tell people that their tires were damaged and
were causing the pull... "But, I just bought these a couple of months ago
and they're expensive __________ "(enter any tire brand here). I would
then have to explain that the car (truck, SUV) came in with only 12 psi in
one tire and that tire had been overheated and was causing all their
problems. This scenario would play out many times a day. Indeed, it was
the most common diagnosis I gave out. Keep in mind here that I did not
sell tires, just alignments and general repair, It would have been in my
interest if the tires were ok and the car needed suspension work, but, being
an honest mechanic. I sent them out to get tires at the tire shop of their
choice and offered a free recheck of the tires didn't fix the problem.
There was no tire brand that seemed to have more problems than
others, from the most expensive to the cheapest, with the possible
exception of no-name tires of the 4 for $100.00 variety. The one sure
thing was SUVs had way more problems than other type of vehicle. They are
heavy, and the tires are supposed to be inflated to higher levels, generally
44 psi. The tires are also compromises between offroad traction and onroad
noise and heat retention characteristics. If the tires on a heavy SUV are
left under inflated the potential for overheating is higher. Considering
the proclivity of an SUV to roll over anyway, we've reached a cause/effect
relationship that points to problems that are occurring.
This is happening across the board, not just to
Firestone/Bridgestone. The reason that this particular tire is at the
forefront of the news is that more of these have been put on SUVs then any
other tire. Is this tire more sensitive to under inflation due to design?
Possibly, but the underlying problem is one of neglect/ignorance by the
owners of the vehicles. Very few people check their air pressure as often as
recommended in their owner's manual. All tire warranties carry some
verbiage about proper inflation and damaged caused by under/over inflation.
I honestly do not know if these tires are defective, obviously from
the above, I put the lion's share of the blame on the owner of the vehicle.
This is my opinion, an educated opinion, but, an opinion none the less.....
To your question of benefit: I don't think that anyone will
benefit. We will all pay higher prices for tires when all is over. All
tire design is compromise. I've been taught this by my business and my
racing (amateur road racer, IT/Pro7 RX7) You have to give things up to get
other things. So the tires will be redesigned for these SUVs, they
will be able to run longer under inflated without damage. They will give
up traction and/or load capacity and/or longevity and /or ride and/or some
other characteristic, there WILL be a tradeoff. Because someone wouldn't
check the air in his or her tires, the next time you have to corner hard to
avoid an accident the tire may not grip well enough to do the job.
All I'm asking of you is to not fan the flames, lets see what
happens. Your comments are very reactionary and inflammatory. You make
huge general sweeping comments about "all Firestone tires" etc.
Mellow out, dude, or maybe go litigate the case, but please don't go off
half cocked. Thanks for listening. JP
John Pagel
Quality Control
Tel: 916-265-4424
John.Pagel@iMotors.com
You've never bought a used car like this.
-----Original Message-----
From: dickb@cheerful.com [mailto:dickb@cheerful.com]
Sent: Monday, August 14, 2000 9:35 PM
To: Pagel, John; austin healey list
Subject: RE: RE: Firestone Tires
John
Why does "It" have to stop?
Fresh Air and Sunlight will disinfect this whole Mess and bring out the
Truth.
Surely you agree that that will benefit everyone - including
Firestone/Bridgestone and Ford.
Or maybe you don't ????
DickB
---- you wrote:
>
> So, here we are, everybody is saying that all these tires are bad
> from '92 to the present...... That was a long strike!!!! Hope the union
> had a good strike fund. So which is it? Some tires made by replacement
> workers or all tires made by Firestone? I'm hearing all kinds of things
here
> going in all directions. This is a firestorm of accusation. It needs to
> end.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Coop1 [mailto:coop1@dnai.com]
> Sent: Monday, August 14, 2000 12:40 PM
> To: Editorgary@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: RE: Firestone Tires
>
>
>
> I heard that on this morning's news. And, according to a company
spokesman,
> "the strike had no affect on this recall issue".
> Coop
>
> >From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
> > Another interesting note from this morning's news-- every one of the
tires
> > that delaminated was manufactured at one Firestone plant and during a
> period
> > when workers at that plant were out on strike and the assembly line was
> being
> > run by managers and temporary workers.
> > Cheers
> > gary
> >
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From "Karlsson Magnus" <healey at telia.com>
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2000 20:57:53 +0200
Subject: SV: calipers for rear brakes
The calipers are early Jaguar XJ6 and E-type. I assume that the discs are
specially made for Healeys. I have not been succesful in finding a disc from
another make that will fit. If someone else on the list knows of a disc that
will fit it would be very useful information.
Magnus Karlsson
SWEDEN
----- Original Message -----
From: John Rowe <jarowe@connect.comdek.net.au>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Cc: Karlsson Magnus <healey@telia.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2000 12:14 PM
Subject: Re: calipers for rear brakes
> Hi All
>
> Just continuing this brake thread to the next step.
>
> What type of caliper and disc can be used on the rear of a BT7 or I presume
> any other 3000?
>
> Regards
> John Rowe
> Perth
> Western Australia
> BT7 in resto
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Karlsson Magnus <healey@telia.com>
> To: Healey Lista <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2000 4:02 PM
> Subject: SV: Brake calipers
>
>
> >
> > Mike and Bruce,
> >
> > It is no problem to fit a BJ8 disc to a BJ7 and earlier hub.
> >
> > In my previous posting regarding the caliper question I forgot to mention
> that if you change to metric Girling calipers the disc also have to bee
> changed. It´s straightforward, you get better brakes and the possibility to
> fit competition pads that are readily available. The metric caliper is very
> similar in appearance to the BJ8 caliper.
> >
> > Magnus Karlsson
> > SWEDEN
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Michael Salter <magicare@home.com>
> > To: Bruce Starke <bstarke@redshift.bc.ca>
> > Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Monday, August 14, 2000 10:00 PM
> > Subject: Re: Brake calipers
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Bruce Starke wrote:
> > >
> > > > Another question for the knowledgeable list::
> > > > I need to get new brake calipers---will the BJ8 calipers bolt straight
> onto
> > > > an earlier car viz. my tricarb or do I have to get the correct ones?
> The
> > > > reason for this is that the BJ8 has bigger pads and better braking (I
> think)
> > > > and they are cheaper as well!
> > > > Thanks
> > > > BRUCE STARKE
> > > > Tricarb
> > >
> > > Hi Bruce.
> > > The bolt spacing on the later caliper is greater by 1/4"
> > > The disc thickness on the BJ8 is greater by 1/8"
> > > The BJ8 hub is also different as is the stub axle which has intergral
> caliper
> > > mounts
> > > The ony way I know is to change everything form the King pin out.
> > > --
> > > Regards,
> > >
> > > Mike Salter
> > > http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> > > >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2000 15:08:15 EDT
Subject: Re: tires
In a message dated 08/15/2000 1:51:53 PM Central Daylight Time,
dickb@cheerful.com writes:
<< I think you'll find that the Dunlop SP20 in 165 x 15 is readily available
from >>
Fred:
And they provide almost the same "ride height".
If "clearence" is your prob, then either you have way wrong tire curently,
have bad springs, or your going WAY to fast over those speed bumps<G>!!
Cheers.............
Ed
'63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey) ( wearing SPs)
From "Pagel, John" <John.Pagel at imotors.com>
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2000 12:32:54 -0700
Subject: RE: RE: Firestone Tires
Oh, and you used the word "idiot" and insulted other people on this list
just because they had opinions contrary to yours. Lets have an intelligent
disagreement, no name calling. JP
-----Original Message-----
From: Pagel, John
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2000 11:59 AM
To: 'dickb@cheerful.com'; austin healey list
Subject: RE: RE: Firestone Tires
Ok, I'll bite. Here is the e-mail sent to me...
Thanks for your "facts" John.. Why didn't you tell us where you got them?
You, my friend, arean Idiot if you think Firestone is blame-free or Ford for
that matter.
Why don't you tell the List what the "imotors" in your email address stands
for?
First, to your private e-mail asking where I got the "facts". The
same place all the "facts" in this debacle come from, the media. I saw an
interview with the man, a reporter asked him if the pressure in his tires
was correct, he answered in front of all the world, "I've never checked
'em" The same reporter also interviewed people who were at the site of
the accident. Two people reported that the SUV has just "zipped" around
them, changing lanes and driving very fast. Now, these facts carry no more
or less absolute truth than any of the others reported in the media, I'm
just telling you what I saw on TV.
As to your comment about iMotors, I'm employed here as an
automotive expert, I have Nothing to do with Firestone or Bridgestone, In
fact our company doesn't use their tires at all. What we do here is sell
used cars. And we do a damn find job of it (small plug).
I owned an alignment shop for 6 years and will continue to preach
the gospel of proper inflation. Often the reason a car was brought in for
an alignment was negligence, yes, one ft tire down at 10 psi. Vibration
complaints were almost always tread separation due to under inflation. I
can't count the times I had to tell people that their tires were damaged and
were causing the pull... "But, I just bought these a couple of months ago
and they're expensive __________ "(enter any tire brand here). I would
then have to explain that the car (truck, SUV) came in with only 12 psi in
one tire and that tire had been overheated and was causing all their
problems. This scenario would play out many times a day. Indeed, it was
the most common diagnosis I gave out. Keep in mind here that I did not
sell tires, just alignments and general repair, It would have been in my
interest if the tires were ok and the car needed suspension work, but, being
an honest mechanic. I sent them out to get tires at the tire shop of their
choice and offered a free recheck of the tires didn't fix the problem.
There was no tire brand that seemed to have more problems than
others, from the most expensive to the cheapest, with the possible
exception of no-name tires of the 4 for $100.00 variety. The one sure
thing was SUVs had way more problems than other type of vehicle. They are
heavy, and the tires are supposed to be inflated to higher levels, generally
44 psi. The tires are also compromises between offroad traction and onroad
noise and heat retention characteristics. If the tires on a heavy SUV are
left under inflated the potential for overheating is higher. Considering
the proclivity of an SUV to roll over anyway, we've reached a cause/effect
relationship that points to problems that are occurring.
This is happening across the board, not just to
Firestone/Bridgestone. The reason that this particular tire is at the
forefront of the news is that more of these have been put on SUVs then any
other tire. Is this tire more sensitive to under inflation due to design?
Possibly, but the underlying problem is one of neglect/ignorance by the
owners of the vehicles. Very few people check their air pressure as often as
recommended in their owner's manual. All tire warranties carry some
verbiage about proper inflation and damaged caused by under/over inflation.
I honestly do not know if these tires are defective, obviously from
the above, I put the lion's share of the blame on the owner of the vehicle.
This is my opinion, an educated opinion, but, an opinion none the less.....
To your question of benefit: I don't think that anyone will
benefit. We will all pay higher prices for tires when all is over. All
tire design is compromise. I've been taught this by my business and my
racing (amateur road racer, IT/Pro7 RX7) You have to give things up to get
other things. So the tires will be redesigned for these SUVs, they
will be able to run longer under inflated without damage. They will give
up traction and/or load capacity and/or longevity and /or ride and/or some
other characteristic, there WILL be a tradeoff. Because someone wouldn't
check the air in his or her tires, the next time you have to corner hard to
avoid an accident the tire may not grip well enough to do the job.
All I'm asking of you is to not fan the flames, lets see what
happens. Your comments are very reactionary and inflammatory. You make
huge general sweeping comments about "all Firestone tires" etc.
Mellow out, dude, or maybe go litigate the case, but please don't go off
half cocked. Thanks for listening. JP
John Pagel
Quality Control
Tel: 916-265-4424
John.Pagel@iMotors.com
You've never bought a used car like this.
-----Original Message-----
From: dickb@cheerful.com [mailto:dickb@cheerful.com]
Sent: Monday, August 14, 2000 9:35 PM
To: Pagel, John; austin healey list
Subject: RE: RE: Firestone Tires
John
Why does "It" have to stop?
Fresh Air and Sunlight will disinfect this whole Mess and bring out the
Truth.
Surely you agree that that will benefit everyone - including
Firestone/Bridgestone and Ford.
Or maybe you don't ????
DickB
---- you wrote:
>
> So, here we are, everybody is saying that all these tires are bad
> from '92 to the present...... That was a long strike!!!! Hope the union
> had a good strike fund. So which is it? Some tires made by replacement
> workers or all tires made by Firestone? I'm hearing all kinds of things
here
> going in all directions. This is a firestorm of accusation. It needs to
> end.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Coop1 [mailto:coop1@dnai.com]
> Sent: Monday, August 14, 2000 12:40 PM
> To: Editorgary@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: RE: Firestone Tires
>
>
>
> I heard that on this morning's news. And, according to a company
spokesman,
> "the strike had no affect on this recall issue".
> Coop
>
> >From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
> > Another interesting note from this morning's news-- every one of the
tires
> > that delaminated was manufactured at one Firestone plant and during a
> period
> > when workers at that plant were out on strike and the assembly line was
> being
> > run by managers and temporary workers.
> > Cheers
> > gary
> >
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From BGAHC at aol.com
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2000 15:52:35 EDT
Subject: Re: tires
dickb@cheerful.com writes:
> BGAHC has a website devoted to tires. But I think that will turn out to be
> the consensus for stock sizes.
My site is closed for two weeks for remodeling. The URL for the tire page
is http://members.aol.com/BGAHC/bluegrasstireinfo.html
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
1957 BN4 Rally Car
1966 BJ8
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2000 15:59:55 -0400
Subject: RE: RE: Firestone Tires
Will you guys please knock it off... I left the Jag list because of this
type of banter... I suggest if you'd like to continue this P*ssing contest
to exchange phone numbers and have at it....
Steve K.
61
BN7
-----Original Message-----
From: Pagel, John [mailto:John.Pagel@imotors.com]
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2000 3:33 PM
To: austin healey list
Subject: RE: RE: Firestone Tires
Oh, and you used the word "idiot" and insulted other people on this list
just because they had opinions contrary to yours. Lets have an intelligent
disagreement, no name calling. JP
-----Original Message-----
From: Pagel, John
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2000 11:59 AM
To: 'dickb@cheerful.com'; austin healey list
Subject: RE: RE: Firestone Tires
Ok, I'll bite. Here is the e-mail sent to me...
Thanks for your "facts" John.. Why didn't you tell us where you got them?
You, my friend, arean Idiot if you think Firestone is blame-free or Ford for
that matter.
Why don't you tell the List what the "imotors" in your email address stands
for?
First, to your private e-mail asking where I got the "facts". The
same place all the "facts" in this debacle come from, the media. I saw an
interview with the man, a reporter asked him if the pressure in his tires
was correct, he answered in front of all the world, "I've never checked
'em" The same reporter also interviewed people who were at the site of
the accident. Two people reported that the SUV has just "zipped" around
them, changing lanes and driving very fast. Now, these facts carry no more
or less absolute truth than any of the others reported in the media, I'm
just telling you what I saw on TV.
As to your comment about iMotors, I'm employed here as an
automotive expert, I have Nothing to do with Firestone or Bridgestone, In
fact our company doesn't use their tires at all. What we do here is sell
used cars. And we do a damn find job of it (small plug).
I owned an alignment shop for 6 years and will continue to preach
the gospel of proper inflation. Often the reason a car was brought in for
an alignment was negligence, yes, one ft tire down at 10 psi. Vibration
complaints were almost always tread separation due to under inflation. I
can't count the times I had to tell people that their tires were damaged and
were causing the pull... "But, I just bought these a couple of months ago
and they're expensive __________ "(enter any tire brand here). I would
then have to explain that the car (truck, SUV) came in with only 12 psi in
one tire and that tire had been overheated and was causing all their
problems. This scenario would play out many times a day. Indeed, it was
the most common diagnosis I gave out. Keep in mind here that I did not
sell tires, just alignments and general repair, It would have been in my
interest if the tires were ok and the car needed suspension work, but, being
an honest mechanic. I sent them out to get tires at the tire shop of their
choice and offered a free recheck of the tires didn't fix the problem.
There was no tire brand that seemed to have more problems than
others, from the most expensive to the cheapest, with the possible
exception of no-name tires of the 4 for $100.00 variety. The one sure
thing was SUVs had way more problems than other type of vehicle. They are
heavy, and the tires are supposed to be inflated to higher levels, generally
44 psi. The tires are also compromises between offroad traction and onroad
noise and heat retention characteristics. If the tires on a heavy SUV are
left under inflated the potential for overheating is higher. Considering
the proclivity of an SUV to roll over anyway, we've reached a cause/effect
relationship that points to problems that are occurring.
This is happening across the board, not just to
Firestone/Bridgestone. The reason that this particular tire is at the
forefront of the news is that more of these have been put on SUVs then any
other tire. Is this tire more sensitive to under inflation due to design?
Possibly, but the underlying problem is one of neglect/ignorance by the
owners of the vehicles. Very few people check their air pressure as often as
recommended in their owner's manual. All tire warranties carry some
verbiage about proper inflation and damaged caused by under/over inflation.
I honestly do not know if these tires are defective, obviously from
the above, I put the lion's share of the blame on the owner of the vehicle.
This is my opinion, an educated opinion, but, an opinion none the less.....
To your question of benefit: I don't think that anyone will
benefit. We will all pay higher prices for tires when all is over. All
tire design is compromise. I've been taught this by my business and my
racing (amateur road racer, IT/Pro7 RX7) You have to give things up to get
other things. So the tires will be redesigned for these SUVs, they
will be able to run longer under inflated without damage. They will give
up traction and/or load capacity and/or longevity and /or ride and/or some
other characteristic, there WILL be a tradeoff. Because someone wouldn't
check the air in his or her tires, the next time you have to corner hard to
avoid an accident the tire may not grip well enough to do the job.
All I'm asking of you is to not fan the flames, lets see what
happens. Your comments are very reactionary and inflammatory. You make
huge general sweeping comments about "all Firestone tires" etc.
Mellow out, dude, or maybe go litigate the case, but please don't go off
half cocked. Thanks for listening. JP
John Pagel
Quality Control
Tel: 916-265-4424
John.Pagel@iMotors.com
You've never bought a used car like this.
-----Original Message-----
From: dickb@cheerful.com [mailto:dickb@cheerful.com]
Sent: Monday, August 14, 2000 9:35 PM
To: Pagel, John; austin healey list
Subject: RE: RE: Firestone Tires
John
Why does "It" have to stop?
Fresh Air and Sunlight will disinfect this whole Mess and bring out the
Truth.
Surely you agree that that will benefit everyone - including
Firestone/Bridgestone and Ford.
Or maybe you don't ????
DickB
---- you wrote:
>
> So, here we are, everybody is saying that all these tires are bad
> from '92 to the present...... That was a long strike!!!! Hope the union
> had a good strike fund. So which is it? Some tires made by replacement
> workers or all tires made by Firestone? I'm hearing all kinds of things
here
> going in all directions. This is a firestorm of accusation. It needs to
> end.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Coop1 [mailto:coop1@dnai.com]
> Sent: Monday, August 14, 2000 12:40 PM
> To: Editorgary@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: RE: Firestone Tires
>
>
>
> I heard that on this morning's news. And, according to a company
spokesman,
> "the strike had no affect on this recall issue".
> Coop
>
> >From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
> > Another interesting note from this morning's news-- every one of the
tires
> > that delaminated was manufactured at one Firestone plant and during a
> period
> > when workers at that plant were out on strike and the assembly line was
> being
> > run by managers and temporary workers.
> > Cheers
> > gary
> >
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From "RL Chrysler" <lchrysl at fhs.csu.McMaster.CA>
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2000 16:08:48 -0400
Subject: Re: Rocker Rollers
John,
Is this for a six cylinder, or for the four?
Rich Chrysler
----- Original Message -----
From: John Loftus <loftusdesign@home.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2000 2:44 PM
Subject: Rocker Rollers
>
> Hi all,
>
> In my quest for Rocker Shaft rebuilding sources I spoke to Rocker Arm
> Specialists in Anderson CA at 19841 Hirsch Court, Anderson, CA 96007
> Tel. (530) 378-1075.
>
> They are getting material together to produce Roller Rocker Arm
> assemblies for Healeys within the next couple months. You supply your
> old rocker arm assembly as a core and they will rebuild it with:
>
> 1. 2024 aluminium CNC machined Roller Rocker arms with roller tip. 1.5
> exact ratio.
> 2. Resurfaced and hard chromed shaft (from your original)
> 3. Bronze bushings, honed to size (reaming is possible but claims the
> honing process they use is better and no problems with embedded
> particles)
> 4. New stock type adjusting screws
> 5. Reassembled
>
> Price: approx. US$300.00 plus shipping (30 years in business and operate
> at the wholesale level)
>
> They claim the following advantages (please confirm, challenge or
> correct as necessary):
>
> a. The 1.5 ratio should give about 10 hp increase.
>
> b. The valve guide wear should be greatly reduced with a roller
> assembly.
>
> c. Heavier valve springs can be used.
>
> I told them I would post this to the list and find out how much interest
> there is and if there are any requests for other modifications (1.6
> ratio?, CNC support towers, accommodation for longer valve stem height,
> etc.)
>
> If you are interested in ordering, let me know so they can anticipate
> production quantities. No financial interest, yadayada
>
> Thanks,
> John
>
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2000 13:25:40 -0700
Subject: Re: Rocker Rollers
Rich,
The info was for a six cylinder. If anyone is interested in 4 cylinder
versions I'll check into it.
John Loftus
BJ7
RL Chrysler wrote:
>
> John,
> Is this for a six cylinder, or for the four?
> Rich Chrysler
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: John Loftus <loftusdesign@home.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2000 2:44 PM
> Subject: Rocker Rollers
>
> >
> > Hi all,
> >
> > In my quest for Rocker Shaft rebuilding sources I spoke to Rocker Arm
> > Specialists in Anderson CA at 19841 Hirsch Court, Anderson, CA 96007
> > Tel. (530) 378-1075.
> >
> > They are getting material together to produce Roller Rocker Arm
> > assemblies for Healeys within the next couple months. You supply your
> > old rocker arm assembly as a core and they will rebuild it with:
> >
> > 1. 2024 aluminium CNC machined Roller Rocker arms with roller tip. 1.5
> > exact ratio.
> > 2. Resurfaced and hard chromed shaft (from your original)
> > 3. Bronze bushings, honed to size (reaming is possible but claims the
> > honing process they use is better and no problems with embedded
> > particles)
> > 4. New stock type adjusting screws
> > 5. Reassembled
> >
> > Price: approx. US$300.00 plus shipping (30 years in business and operate
> > at the wholesale level)
> >
> > They claim the following advantages (please confirm, challenge or
> > correct as necessary):
> >
> > a. The 1.5 ratio should give about 10 hp increase.
> >
> > b. The valve guide wear should be greatly reduced with a roller
> > assembly.
> >
> > c. Heavier valve springs can be used.
> >
> > I told them I would post this to the list and find out how much interest
> > there is and if there are any requests for other modifications (1.6
> > ratio?, CNC support towers, accommodation for longer valve stem height,
> > etc.)
> >
> > If you are interested in ordering, let me know so they can anticipate
> > production quantities. No financial interest, yadayada
> >
> > Thanks,
> > John
> >
From "Scheuble, Fred J. ,HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2000 16:34:46 -0400
Subject: RE: RE: Firestone Tires
Please, lets not lose people over this!
-----Original Message-----
From: Kocik, Stephen W [mailto:Stephen.Kocik@unisys.com]
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2000 4:00 PM
To: Pagel, John; austin healey list
Subject: RE: RE: Firestone Tires
Will you guys please knock it off... I left the Jag list because of this
type of banter... I suggest if you'd like to continue this P*ssing contest
to exchange phone numbers and have at it....
Steve K.
61
BN7
-----Original Message-----
From: Pagel, John [mailto:John.Pagel@imotors.com]
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2000 3:33 PM
To: austin healey list
Subject: RE: RE: Firestone Tires
Oh, and you used the word "idiot" and insulted other people on this list
just because they had opinions contrary to yours. Lets have an intelligent
disagreement, no name calling. JP
-----Original Message-----
From: Pagel, John
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2000 11:59 AM
To: 'dickb@cheerful.com'; austin healey list
Subject: RE: RE: Firestone Tires
Ok, I'll bite. Here is the e-mail sent to me...
Thanks for your "facts" John.. Why didn't you tell us where you got them?
You, my friend, arean Idiot if you think Firestone is blame-free or Ford for
that matter.
Why don't you tell the List what the "imotors" in your email address stands
for?
First, to your private e-mail asking where I got the "facts". The
same place all the "facts" in this debacle come from, the media. I saw an
interview with the man, a reporter asked him if the pressure in his tires
was correct, he answered in front of all the world, "I've never checked
'em" The same reporter also interviewed people who were at the site of
the accident. Two people reported that the SUV has just "zipped" around
them, changing lanes and driving very fast. Now, these facts carry no more
or less absolute truth than any of the others reported in the media, I'm
just telling you what I saw on TV.
As to your comment about iMotors, I'm employed here as an
automotive expert, I have Nothing to do with Firestone or Bridgestone, In
fact our company doesn't use their tires at all. What we do here is sell
used cars. And we do a damn find job of it (small plug).
I owned an alignment shop for 6 years and will continue to preach
the gospel of proper inflation. Often the reason a car was brought in for
an alignment was negligence, yes, one ft tire down at 10 psi. Vibration
complaints were almost always tread separation due to under inflation. I
can't count the times I had to tell people that their tires were damaged and
were causing the pull... "But, I just bought these a couple of months ago
and they're expensive __________ "(enter any tire brand here). I would
then have to explain that the car (truck, SUV) came in with only 12 psi in
one tire and that tire had been overheated and was causing all their
problems. This scenario would play out many times a day. Indeed, it was
the most common diagnosis I gave out. Keep in mind here that I did not
sell tires, just alignments and general repair, It would have been in my
interest if the tires were ok and the car needed suspension work, but, being
an honest mechanic. I sent them out to get tires at the tire shop of their
choice and offered a free recheck of the tires didn't fix the problem.
There was no tire brand that seemed to have more problems than
others, from the most expensive to the cheapest, with the possible
exception of no-name tires of the 4 for $100.00 variety. The one sure
thing was SUVs had way more problems than other type of vehicle. They are
heavy, and the tires are supposed to be inflated to higher levels, generally
44 psi. The tires are also compromises between offroad traction and onroad
noise and heat retention characteristics. If the tires on a heavy SUV are
left under inflated the potential for overheating is higher. Considering
the proclivity of an SUV to roll over anyway, we've reached a cause/effect
relationship that points to problems that are occurring.
This is happening across the board, not just to
Firestone/Bridgestone. The reason that this particular tire is at the
forefront of the news is that more of these have been put on SUVs then any
other tire. Is this tire more sensitive to under inflation due to design?
Possibly, but the underlying problem is one of neglect/ignorance by the
owners of the vehicles. Very few people check their air pressure as often as
recommended in their owner's manual. All tire warranties carry some
verbiage about proper inflation and damaged caused by under/over inflation.
I honestly do not know if these tires are defective, obviously from
the above, I put the lion's share of the blame on the owner of the vehicle.
This is my opinion, an educated opinion, but, an opinion none the less.....
To your question of benefit: I don't think that anyone will
benefit. We will all pay higher prices for tires when all is over. All
tire design is compromise. I've been taught this by my business and my
racing (amateur road racer, IT/Pro7 RX7) You have to give things up to get
other things. So the tires will be redesigned for these SUVs, they
will be able to run longer under inflated without damage. They will give
up traction and/or load capacity and/or longevity and /or ride and/or some
other characteristic, there WILL be a tradeoff. Because someone wouldn't
check the air in his or her tires, the next time you have to corner hard to
avoid an accident the tire may not grip well enough to do the job.
All I'm asking of you is to not fan the flames, lets see what
happens. Your comments are very reactionary and inflammatory. You make
huge general sweeping comments about "all Firestone tires" etc.
Mellow out, dude, or maybe go litigate the case, but please don't go off
half cocked. Thanks for listening. JP
John Pagel
Quality Control
Tel: 916-265-4424
John.Pagel@iMotors.com
You've never bought a used car like this.
-----Original Message-----
From: dickb@cheerful.com [mailto:dickb@cheerful.com]
Sent: Monday, August 14, 2000 9:35 PM
To: Pagel, John; austin healey list
Subject: RE: RE: Firestone Tires
John
Why does "It" have to stop?
Fresh Air and Sunlight will disinfect this whole Mess and bring out the
Truth.
Surely you agree that that will benefit everyone - including
Firestone/Bridgestone and Ford.
Or maybe you don't ????
DickB
---- you wrote:
>
> So, here we are, everybody is saying that all these tires are bad
> from '92 to the present...... That was a long strike!!!! Hope the union
> had a good strike fund. So which is it? Some tires made by replacement
> workers or all tires made by Firestone? I'm hearing all kinds of things
here
> going in all directions. This is a firestorm of accusation. It needs to
> end.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Coop1 [mailto:coop1@dnai.com]
> Sent: Monday, August 14, 2000 12:40 PM
> To: Editorgary@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: RE: Firestone Tires
>
>
>
> I heard that on this morning's news. And, according to a company
spokesman,
> "the strike had no affect on this recall issue".
> Coop
>
> >From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
> > Another interesting note from this morning's news-- every one of the
tires
> > that delaminated was manufactured at one Firestone plant and during a
> period
> > when workers at that plant were out on strike and the assembly line was
> being
> > run by managers and temporary workers.
> > Cheers
> > gary
> >
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From "Keith R. Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2000 16:45:18 -0400
Subject: Re: Firestone Tires
How about you guys involved in this Firestone thing replying only to
each other and not the entire list please.
Keith Pennell
dickb@cheerful.com wrote:
>
> John
>
> Why does "It" have to stop?
>
> Fresh Air and Sunlight will disinfect this whole Mess and bring out the
>Truth.
>
> Surely you agree that that will benefit everyone - including
>Firestone/Bridgestone and Ford.
-------------------------------------------------------------
From "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej at mossmotors.com>
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2000 13:38:39 -0700
Subject: RE: Ignition wires
The bumblebee wire we have here is actual Lucas wire, though I have seen a
few variations in it. The stuff we used to have was very stiff and would
basically stay in one shape, later stuff is more flexible. I have also seen
it come through as a sort of greenish yellow, but not recently. Our current
stock is a proper yellow color (we do have a roll of the greenish stuff but
I think that would be a last resort) and is a flexible type wire.
-----Original Message-----
From: Editorgary@aol.com [mailto:Editorgary@aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2000 8:44 AM
To: coop1@dnai.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Ignition wires
In a message dated 8/15/00 8:34:36 AM, coop1@dnai.com writes:
<< Any tricks or traps I should be
aware of. Also, can someone recommend one vendor over another for this wire
or is it all pretty much the same. Thanks in advance Randy >>
Pretty much the same. You buy it by the foot, which means you have to add
your own plug tips. Several suppliers have different kinds of repro British
looking tips (like "bowtie" Champions, etc.) and British Car Specialists
sells quite adequate generic straight plugs. It's not hard to install, but
surprisingly stiff. You could put numbers on the wires, but don't really
need to, because once it's bent into place, it keeps its shape and there
won't be any question which wire goes where.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
Editor, British Car Magazine
From "Pagel, John" <John.Pagel at imotors.com>
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2000 13:40:03 -0700
Subject: RE: Rocker Rollers
These sound good, I was researching various ways of upgrading my
valvetrain and was looking at adapting different alloy roller rockers.
And this business is in my neck of the woods, the price seems right, almost
too good to be true, I'm very interested.
-----Original Message-----
From: RL Chrysler [mailto:lchrysl@fhs.csu.McMaster.CA]
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2000 1:09 PM
To: John Loftus; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Rocker Rollers
John,
Is this for a six cylinder, or for the four?
Rich Chrysler
----- Original Message -----
From: John Loftus <loftusdesign@home.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2000 2:44 PM
Subject: Rocker Rollers
>
> Hi all,
>
> In my quest for Rocker Shaft rebuilding sources I spoke to Rocker Arm
> Specialists in Anderson CA at 19841 Hirsch Court, Anderson, CA 96007
> Tel. (530) 378-1075.
>
> They are getting material together to produce Roller Rocker Arm
> assemblies for Healeys within the next couple months. You supply your
> old rocker arm assembly as a core and they will rebuild it with:
>
> 1. 2024 aluminium CNC machined Roller Rocker arms with roller tip. 1.5
> exact ratio.
> 2. Resurfaced and hard chromed shaft (from your original)
> 3. Bronze bushings, honed to size (reaming is possible but claims the
> honing process they use is better and no problems with embedded
> particles)
> 4. New stock type adjusting screws
> 5. Reassembled
>
> Price: approx. US$300.00 plus shipping (30 years in business and operate
> at the wholesale level)
>
> They claim the following advantages (please confirm, challenge or
> correct as necessary):
>
> a. The 1.5 ratio should give about 10 hp increase.
>
> b. The valve guide wear should be greatly reduced with a roller
> assembly.
>
> c. Heavier valve springs can be used.
>
> I told them I would post this to the list and find out how much interest
> there is and if there are any requests for other modifications (1.6
> ratio?, CNC support towers, accommodation for longer valve stem height,
> etc.)
>
> If you are interested in ordering, let me know so they can anticipate
> production quantities. No financial interest, yadayada
>
> Thanks,
> John
>
From BGAHC at aol.com
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2000 17:01:49 EDT
Subject: Domain names final outcome
Thanks to everyone who responded about my search for a domain name.
I ended up using the yahoo service that john recommended (see below). I
already have about 70 Healey pages hosted through AOL and 84 megs of space
available from AOL. (the remnants of what was once the Bluegrass Club Site).
So finding a new ISP was not a viable option.
The yahoo service allows a "virtual domain hosting" that allows me to use a
simple URL that transfers to my existing URL. So instead of saying my web
site is at "http://hometown.aol.com/bgahc/jimwerner.html"; I can just say
"jamesfwerner.com". that was worth $70 bucks to me!
New web site should be up by August 23. (self imposed deadline)
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
1957 BN4 Rally Car
1966 BJ8
loftusdesign@home.com writes:
> I also used register.com but would consider using yahoo
> http://domains.yahoo.com/ in the future because they offer free 'virtual
> domain hosting'. This means you can link your new domain name to an
> existing domain address (the free website space that is included with
> your current ISP) This will save you the extra cost of another ISP
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
1957 BN4 Rally Car
1966 BJ8
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2000 17:35:50 -0400
Subject: Re: RE: Firestone Tires
Good post! As a practising economist I especially appreciate your side of
this issue. There is no such thing as a free lunch.
The net result of all of this will be higher consumer prices for a poorer
performing product because manufacturers will be forced to design the tire
for the biggest idiots out there - much the same as the curriculum are
designed for todays shools.
Lee
'62 BT7 Tri-carb
> First, to your private e-mail asking where I got the "facts". The
>same place all the "facts" in this debacle come from, the media. I saw an
----- SNIP -----
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2000 18:38:50 EDT
Subject: Trunk (boot) seal
My boot lid had no rubber gasket and occasionally leaked a bit, so I ordered
a "trunk seal" from Moss. The parts catalogue says: "Glues into channel on
trunk lid", but no matter how I try to fit it (at this point dry, not glued)
I seem to be creating a signifigant bulge in the lid. Without the seal the
fit between shroud and lid is quite good, as both are on same plane. With
even a short piece of gasket in place in the lid groove the lid seems to be
forced up about 1/4". I cannot imagine that the lid would close well, if at
all, were the gasket in place all the way around. Has anyone got any
suggestions or experience that they can share?
Thanks--Michael Oritt, BN1
From "Michael Lupynec" <mlupynec at globalserve.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2000 19:17:03 -0400
Subject: Re: Firestone Tires
Despite the rhetoric this Firestone thing has been educational.
We finally got an objective detailed non-flammatory inside view of
the tire industry perspective from John Pagel.
A good alternative to the mass consumption tripe from the GM Truck
Burning Media and that security lawyer DickB who knows everything,
questions everybody's facts and their credentials, and dishes out
accusations like "Jerk" and "Idiot", but then can't take his own
medicine.
Mike L.
60A,67E,59Bug
----- Original Message -----
From: Keith R. Pennell <pennell@whro.net>
To: <dickb@cheerful.com>
Cc: Pagel, John <John.Pagel@imotors.com>; austin healey list
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: August 15, 2000 4:45 PM
Subject: Re: Firestone Tires
>
> How about you guys involved in this Firestone thing replying
only to
> each other and not the entire list please.
>
> Keith Pennell
>
> dickb@cheerful.com wrote:
> >
> > John
> >
> > Why does "It" have to stop?
> >
> > Fresh Air and Sunlight will disinfect this whole Mess and
bring out the Truth.
> >
> > Surely you agree that that will benefit everyone - including
Firestone/Bridgestone and Ford.
> -------------------------------------------------------------
>
From "Michael Lupynec" <mlupynec at globalserve.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2000 19:47:52 -0400
Subject: Re: RE: Firestone Tires
Unfortunately, "the biggest idiots out there" probably represent
70% of the driving population. I really hate to agree with DickB
on this one, but maybe SUV tires have to be made idiot proof.
Its like salmonella - all that costly effort to remove those bugs
from our uncooked retail meat can be eliminated by intelligent
cooking and counter hygiene with the end user.
Jerry Springer needs to run some seminars on tire pressures and
pink meat.
Mike L.
60A,67E,59Bug
----- Original Message -----
From: Lee S. Mairs <lmairs@ix.netcom.com>
To: Pagel, John <John.Pagel@imotors.com>; Healey
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: August 15, 2000 5:35 PM
Subject: Re: RE: Firestone Tires
>
> Good post! As a practising economist I especially appreciate
your side of
> this issue. There is no such thing as a free lunch.
>
> The net result of all of this will be higher consumer prices for
a poorer
> performing product because manufacturers will be forced to
design the tire
> for the biggest idiots out there - much the same as the
curriculum are
> designed for todays shools.
> Lee
> '62 BT7 Tri-carb
>
> > First, to your private e-mail asking where I got the "facts".
The
> >same place all the "facts" in this debacle come from, the
media. I saw an
> ----- SNIP -----
>
>
From "RL Chrysler" <lchrysl at fhs.csu.McMaster.CA>
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2000 19:41:11 -0400
Subject: Re: Rocker Rollers
Yes,
I for one would like to see a quote for the four cylinder model.
Rich Chrysler
> Rich,
>
> The info was for a six cylinder. If anyone is interested in 4 cylinder
> versions I'll check into it.
>
> John Loftus
> BJ7
>
>
> RL Chrysler wrote:
> >
> > John,
> > Is this for a six cylinder, or for the four?
> > Rich Chrysler
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: John Loftus <loftusdesign@home.com>
> > To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2000 2:44 PM
> > Subject: Rocker Rollers
> >
> > >
> > > Hi all,
> > >
> > > In my quest for Rocker Shaft rebuilding sources I spoke to Rocker Arm
> > > Specialists in Anderson CA at 19841 Hirsch Court, Anderson, CA 96007
> > > Tel. (530) 378-1075.
> > >
> > > They are getting material together to produce Roller Rocker Arm
> > > assemblies for Healeys within the next couple months. You supply your
> > > old rocker arm assembly as a core and they will rebuild it with:
> > >
> > > 1. 2024 aluminium CNC machined Roller Rocker arms with roller tip. 1.5
> > > exact ratio.
> > > 2. Resurfaced and hard chromed shaft (from your original)
> > > 3. Bronze bushings, honed to size (reaming is possible but claims the
> > > honing process they use is better and no problems with embedded
> > > particles)
> > > 4. New stock type adjusting screws
> > > 5. Reassembled
> > >
> > > Price: approx. US$300.00 plus shipping (30 years in business and
operate
> > > at the wholesale level)
> > >
> > > They claim the following advantages (please confirm, challenge or
> > > correct as necessary):
> > >
> > > a. The 1.5 ratio should give about 10 hp increase.
> > >
> > > b. The valve guide wear should be greatly reduced with a roller
> > > assembly.
> > >
> > > c. Heavier valve springs can be used.
> > >
> > > I told them I would post this to the list and find out how much
interest
> > > there is and if there are any requests for other modifications (1.6
> > > ratio?, CNC support towers, accommodation for longer valve stem
height,
> > > etc.)
> > >
> > > If you are interested in ordering, let me know so they can anticipate
> > > production quantities. No financial interest, yadayada
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > John
> > >
>
From "RL Chrysler" <lchrysl at fhs.csu.McMaster.CA>
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2000 19:49:00 -0400
Subject: Re: Trunk (boot) seal
Michael Oritt wrote:
> My boot lid had no rubber gasket and occasionally leaked a bit, so I
ordered
> a "trunk seal" from Moss. The parts catalogue says: "Glues into channel
on
> trunk lid", but no matter how I try to fit it (at this point dry, not
glued)
> I seem to be creating a signifigant bulge in the lid. Without the seal
the
> fit between shroud and lid is quite good, as both are on same plane. With
> even a short piece of gasket in place in the lid groove the lid seems to
be
> forced up about 1/4". I cannot imagine that the lid would close well, if
at
> all, were the gasket in place all the way around. Has anyone got any
> suggestions or experience that they can share?
>
> Thanks--Michael Oritt, BN1
I would first hazard to say that perhaps the rubber cross section you
purchased may not be correct. I've seen some that are on the market that are
absolutely ridiculous, and from quite reputable firms. What you need is a
fairly soft section that has a very shallow dished total height section. The
outboard edge should be relatively squared off, and fit into and up against
the vertical flange, while the inboard edge flares inboard somewhat. This
rubber glues completely around the inside perimeter of the lid, with the end
joint at the top middle, that is to say nearest the cockpit rail, and in the
centre.
Hope this helps.
Rich Chrysler
From "tom felts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2000 20:19:55 -0400
Subject: 3000 for sale
Mt friend, who doesn't have access to the net, is selling a 1963 BJ7,
Colorado Red. In the last year the following has been done to it;
Engine rebuild
trans rebuild
New wiring harnesses
new top and interior
all new hubs
new 72 spoke Dayton chrome with new tires
front suspension rebuilt
generator rebuilt
new voltage regulator
To my knowledge the car is in excellent condition body and mechanicals. Has
hood louvers on a ridged bonnet. Very sharp car. He has two Healeys and
one must go. The other, a tri-carb is magnificient.
His name is Keith Craig phone # is 724-548-4732 Car is located about 35
miles north of Pittsburgh, Pa.
Usual disclaimer just trying to help a friend.
Tom
From "tom felts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2000 20:34:20 -0400
Subject: Technical Question--Maybe Some Healey content
Took my wife's "rice" car to the dealer who said it needed brake pads
soon--front and rear. They gave me a price which was pretty big, so I asked
why. Seems they have a standard practive of pulling the rotors and
"dressing" them every time they change pads. This way, they said, it will
eliminate a possible squeal.
Now, I have changed pads in my Brit cars many times and only once dressed
the rotor and that was because I had scored it.
Is this normal to do, and what if I elect to just have them install the pads
only?
TIA
tom
From "Coop1 at DNAI" <coop1@dnai.com>
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2000 17:10:05 -0700
Subject: Re: Trunk (boot) seal
> My boot lid had no rubber gasket and occasionally leaked a bit, so I
ordered
> a "trunk seal" from Moss. The parts catalogue says: "Glues into channel
on
> trunk lid", but no matter how I try to fit it............... I cannot
imagine that the lid >would close well, if at all, were the gasket in place
all the way around. Has >anyone got any suggestions or experience that they
can share?
>
> Thanks--Michael Oritt, BN1
I've got the very same problem. When closed the trunk lid pooches up due to
the fairly new seal. I'd be interested in solutions too. Randy
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2000 20:23:25 EDT
Subject: Re: Firestone Tires
In a message dated 08/15/2000 6:46:25 PM Central Daylight Time,
mlupynec@globalserve.net writes:
<< idiot proof. >>
OK, Mike. YOU win the "Oxymoron Usage of the Month" Award!!!
You could (pardon the phrase) not have hit the nail on the head more
perfectly nor harder!!!
Cheers.............
Ed
From "S.HUTCHINGS" <hutching at myna.com>
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2000 20:30:55 -0400
Subject: Steering boxes
Does anyone know of (or has anyone out there written) a really good, clear
description for adjusting the steering box...step by step, addressing pit
falls for the first-timer. I seem to remember reading an article on
rebuilding the box, written by someone who had damaged it trying to adjust
it, and had to move on to rebuilding the whole thing!
Stephen....never ending list of things to do, BJ8
From "S.HUTCHINGS" <hutching at myna.com>
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2000 20:48:34 -0400
Subject: Re;Re; Steering boxes
This is in answer to Ed's question "why are you messing with it?"
Even if I'm going to have someone else do the work ( I'm well aware of my
own limitations, and will admit when I don't know what I'm doing), I like
to understand exactly what is going on, and why.
I'm trying to eliminate what I think is excessive play.
Stephen
From "Tim Moran" <timoran at ticnet.com>
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2000 19:47:21 -0500
Subject: Re: Trunk (boot) seal
Mike,
Not being worried about originality (I have a V8 and automatic
transmission), I went to Home Depot and bought a roll of 3/8 thick by 5/8
wide, soft, adhesive backed, gray foam rubber insulation from the windows
and doors section. It fits perfectly into the shroud channel and forms a
fully, water and air, tight seal.
As I remember, the 25 foot roll was $4.89 and was enough to seal my hood
(bonnet) AND trunk (boot). It has been in there for a year now and still
works and looks great.
Tim Moran
***********************
----- Original Message -----
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2000 5:38 PM
Subject: Trunk (boot) seal
>
> My boot lid had no rubber gasket and occasionally leaked a bit, so I
ordered
> a "trunk seal" from Moss. The parts catalogue says: "Glues into channel
on
> trunk lid", but no matter how I try to fit it (at this point dry, not
glued)
> I seem to be creating a signifigant bulge in the lid. Without the seal
the
> fit between shroud and lid is quite good, as both are on same plane. With
> even a short piece of gasket in place in the lid groove the lid seems to
be
> forced up about 1/4". I cannot imagine that the lid would close well, if
at
> all, were the gasket in place all the way around. Has anyone got any
> suggestions or experience that they can share?
>
> Thanks--Michael Oritt, BN1
>
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2000 21:04:10 EDT
Subject: Re: Trunk (boot) seal
In a message dated 08/15/2000 7:57:20 PM Central Daylight Time,
timoran@ticnet.com writes:
<< It has been in there for a year now and still
works and looks great.
>>
Huuum, Tim. Where you not the gent lamenting the lack of a "Rexas Cooler"??
Enquiring.........................................
Ed
From "Mark Fawcett" <fawcett1 at mediaone.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2000 18:05:38 -0700
Subject: Re: Rocker Rollers
Sign me up! If this on the level I'll buy them.
Mark Fawcett
----- Original Message -----
From: Pagel, John <John.Pagel@imotors.com>
To: 'RL Chrysler' <lchrysl@fhs.csu.McMaster.CA>; John Loftus
<loftusdesign@home.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2000 1:40 PM
Subject: RE: Rocker Rollers
>
> These sound good, I was researching various ways of upgrading my
> valvetrain and was looking at adapting different alloy roller
rockers.
> And this business is in my neck of the woods, the price seems right,
almost
> too good to be true, I'm very interested.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: RL Chrysler [mailto:lchrysl@fhs.csu.McMaster.CA]
> Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2000 1:09 PM
> To: John Loftus; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Rocker Rollers
>
>
> John,
> Is this for a six cylinder, or for the four?
> Rich Chrysler
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: John Loftus <loftusdesign@home.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2000 2:44 PM
> Subject: Rocker Rollers
>
>
> >
> > Hi all,
> >
> > In my quest for Rocker Shaft rebuilding sources I spoke to Rocker
Arm
> > Specialists in Anderson CA at 19841 Hirsch Court, Anderson, CA
96007
> > Tel. (530) 378-1075.
> >
> > They are getting material together to produce Roller Rocker Arm
> > assemblies for Healeys within the next couple months. You supply
your
> > old rocker arm assembly as a core and they will rebuild it with:
> >
> > 1. 2024 aluminium CNC machined Roller Rocker arms with roller tip.
1.5
> > exact ratio.
> > 2. Resurfaced and hard chromed shaft (from your original)
> > 3. Bronze bushings, honed to size (reaming is possible but claims
the
> > honing process they use is better and no problems with embedded
> > particles)
> > 4. New stock type adjusting screws
> > 5. Reassembled
> >
> > Price: approx. US$300.00 plus shipping (30 years in business and
operate
> > at the wholesale level)
> >
> > They claim the following advantages (please confirm, challenge or
> > correct as necessary):
> >
> > a. The 1.5 ratio should give about 10 hp increase.
> >
> > b. The valve guide wear should be greatly reduced with a roller
> > assembly.
> >
> > c. Heavier valve springs can be used.
> >
> > I told them I would post this to the list and find out how much
interest
> > there is and if there are any requests for other modifications
(1.6
> > ratio?, CNC support towers, accommodation for longer valve stem
height,
> > etc.)
> >
> > If you are interested in ordering, let me know so they can
anticipate
> > production quantities. No financial interest, yadayada
> >
> > Thanks,
> > John
> >
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2000 21:21:50 EDT
Subject: Re: Re;Re; Steering boxes
In a message dated 08/15/2000 7:47:17 PM Central Daylight Time,
hutching@myna.com writes:
<< This is in answer to Ed's question "why are you messing with it?">>
Huuum, Stephan, I replied PRIVATELY inorder NOT to embarass to you. Geesh.
<< Even if I'm going to have someone else do the work ( I'm well aware of my
own limitations, and will admit when I don't know what I'm doing), I like
to understand exactly what is going on, and why.>>
NOT a thing wrong with that although you should acknowledge Mr. Eastwood.
<< I'm trying to eliminate what I think is excessive play.
Stephen >>
There IS a MAJOR principle (or Rule) to these cars.
It is known as the KISS Principle (Keep It Simple Stupid).
Let's see.
You HAVE ruled out tie rod ends??
You HAVE ruled out the side rods??
You HAVE ruled out the Idler assembly??
You HAVE ruled out the lever for idler gear??
You HAVE ruled out the cross rod assembly ball joints??
You HAVE ruled out all loose nuts and bolts??
You HAVE ruled out Idler or Steering box not being properly bolted down??
You HAVE ruled out bad bearings??
You HAVE assertained that the "spacers" are in place in both front hub??
You HAVE assertained that splines are true??
You HAVE been through the rear end assembly and mounting compents to make
sure something is not "amiss"??
All the above is done - check the steering box for lubricant. Ditto Idler.
Cheers...............
Ed
'63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey)
Founding Member & Delegate, ILLINI Chapter - AHCA (20+ years)
Member, AHCUSA
Ed Kaler, Proprietor
" Just Brits "
Hinsdale, IL
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2000 21:27:11 EDT
Subject: Healey basket case price Question
My dad called me and said that there's some guy been sniffin' 'round his yard
wonderin' if he can talk my dad into selling his 100-Six BN4 basket case.
The car has front damage to the left wing and shroud.
6 port head engine is complete and turns. No reason it won't run without a
little work. Body is original and straight with light rust in the usual
places.
Overdrive trans is gone, car has a four speed no overdrive. Interior is
mostly gone.
Says the guy offered him $2500 for it.
Does this sound reasonable?
Thanks in advance,
Rick
San Diego
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2000 21:29:28 EDT
Subject: Re: Trunk (boot) seal
Moss' trunk seal used to be the wrong crossection. Justa brits may have the
right one. Healey Surgeons does. It should be like a very wide "W", with
one side slightly thinner and more angled awayt hean the other. The
"straighter side" fits against the edge of the boot lid.
The seal on 100s was put in in two pieces, witht he joints midway up the left
and right sides. You only need to put glue against the wide, flat bottom.
Do not try to glue the side against the lid lip.
As you go into corners push the seal in to "bunch up" so it stays snug
against the curvature of the corner. I know of no glue that will hold a
stretched seal in tight over time. The seal tucks under the lip along the
sides.
Roger
From "Neil Cotty" <neilc at apphosting.com>
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 11:37:15 +1000
Subject: Re: Rocker Rollers
All,
FWIW - There is a Company in Ohio - Custom Speed Parts, who produce Harland
Sharp brand Roller Rocker arms. They've been around since the 50's I believe
and produce high quality Roller Rocker arms for various Brit cars. I'm sure
they'd have sets for the Healey's.
I bought a set of 1.6ratio for my MGA. They work out around $25.00 an arm
and they've been making these for many years. Bushed & reamed to fit std
shafts. Sorry, don't have a phone number handy. I'm very happy with my set,
made a big difference to the car and very nice quality.
Cheers,
Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: Mark Fawcett <fawcett1@mediaone.net>
To: Pagel, John <John.Pagel@imotors.com>; 'RL Chrysler'
<lchrysl@fhs.csu.McMaster.CA>; John Loftus <loftusdesign@home.com>;
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2000 11:05 AM
Subject: Re: Rocker Rollers
>
> Sign me up! If this on the level I'll buy them.
> Mark Fawcett
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Pagel, John <John.Pagel@imotors.com>
> To: 'RL Chrysler' <lchrysl@fhs.csu.McMaster.CA>; John Loftus
> <loftusdesign@home.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2000 1:40 PM
> Subject: RE: Rocker Rollers
>
>
> >
> > These sound good, I was researching various ways of upgrading my
> > valvetrain and was looking at adapting different alloy roller
> rockers.
> > And this business is in my neck of the woods, the price seems right,
> almost
> > too good to be true, I'm very interested.
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: RL Chrysler [mailto:lchrysl@fhs.csu.McMaster.CA]
> > Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2000 1:09 PM
> > To: John Loftus; healeys@autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: Rocker Rollers
> >
> >
> > John,
> > Is this for a six cylinder, or for the four?
> > Rich Chrysler
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: John Loftus <loftusdesign@home.com>
> > To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2000 2:44 PM
> > Subject: Rocker Rollers
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Hi all,
> > >
> > > In my quest for Rocker Shaft rebuilding sources I spoke to Rocker
> Arm
> > > Specialists in Anderson CA at 19841 Hirsch Court, Anderson, CA
> 96007
> > > Tel. (530) 378-1075.
> > >
> > > They are getting material together to produce Roller Rocker Arm
> > > assemblies for Healeys within the next couple months. You supply
> your
> > > old rocker arm assembly as a core and they will rebuild it with:
> > >
> > > 1. 2024 aluminium CNC machined Roller Rocker arms with roller tip.
> 1.5
> > > exact ratio.
> > > 2. Resurfaced and hard chromed shaft (from your original)
> > > 3. Bronze bushings, honed to size (reaming is possible but claims
> the
> > > honing process they use is better and no problems with embedded
> > > particles)
> > > 4. New stock type adjusting screws
> > > 5. Reassembled
> > >
> > > Price: approx. US$300.00 plus shipping (30 years in business and
> operate
> > > at the wholesale level)
> > >
> > > They claim the following advantages (please confirm, challenge or
> > > correct as necessary):
> > >
> > > a. The 1.5 ratio should give about 10 hp increase.
> > >
> > > b. The valve guide wear should be greatly reduced with a roller
> > > assembly.
> > >
> > > c. Heavier valve springs can be used.
> > >
> > > I told them I would post this to the list and find out how much
> interest
> > > there is and if there are any requests for other modifications
> (1.6
> > > ratio?, CNC support towers, accommodation for longer valve stem
> height,
> > > etc.)
> > >
> > > If you are interested in ordering, let me know so they can
> anticipate
> > > production quantities. No financial interest, yadayada
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > John
> > >
>
>
>
From Peter Brauen <pbrauen at telepak.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2000 20:45:04 -0500
Subject: Re: Idiot Proof?
Hi All,
A friend has this on his garage wall (directed at himself): " It is hard
to make things idiot proof, because idiots are very ingenious!"
-) ---Peter
-----Original Message-----
From: JustBrits@aol.com <JustBrits@aol.com>
To: mlupynec@globalserve.net <mlupynec@globalserve.net>;
healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tuesday, August 15, 2000 7:39 PM
Subject: Re: Firestone Tires
In a message dated 08/15/2000 6:46:25 PM Central Daylight Time,
mlupynec@globalserve.net writes:
<< idiot proof. >>
OK, Mike. YOU win the "Oxymoron Usage of the Month" Award!!!
You could (pardon the phrase) not have hit the nail on the head more
perfectly nor harder!!!
Cheers.............
Ed
From JLore26 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2000 21:49:04 EDT
Subject: re:Halogen bulbs for Healeys
Hey, Listers
has anyone tried the new Halogen bulbs on their Healey's?
I'm thinking of adding them to my list of restoration goodies needed when I'm
ready to install the new wiring harnesses.
They are pricey, especially since I'm having trouble determining which bulb I
need.
Also, do they last any longer?
John BN7
From Bob <relicks at swbell.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2000 20:48:11 -0700
Subject: Re: 3000 for sale
Tom,
I'm just new to the list. Some very interesting discussions. I used to own a
67 Sprite Mk IV while in college in Pittsburgh in 1974. Hated to sell it but
had to trade it on a
1972 Chevelle when I got married in 1975. Still with her (not the car). I'm
now in the Houston, Tx area even though my mother still lives in the "burgh".
I'm interested in getting back into Healeys, maybe a 3000. So, does he have any
photo's to mail with a price. Also anyone in Houston who may have one for sale,
please advise.
Thanks
Bob Relick
BJ8 (maybe)
tom felts wrote:
> Mt friend, who doesn't have access to the net, is selling a 1963 BJ7,
> Colorado Red. In the last year the following has been done to it;
> Engine rebuild
> trans rebuild
> New wiring harnesses
> new top and interior
> all new hubs
> new 72 spoke Dayton chrome with new tires
> front suspension rebuilt
> generator rebuilt
> new voltage regulator
>
> To my knowledge the car is in excellent condition body and mechanicals. Has
> hood louvers on a ridged bonnet. Very sharp car. He has two Healeys and
> one must go. The other, a tri-carb is magnificient.
>
> His name is Keith Craig phone # is 724-548-4732 Car is located about 35
> miles north of Pittsburgh, Pa.
>
> Usual disclaimer just trying to help a friend.
>
> Tom
From Csooch1 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2000 21:58:30 EDT
Subject: Toe out problem
I recently redid the kingpins and front suspension on my BJ8. After
everything was bolted up I noticed that there was an abnormal amount of toe
out at the wheels. I thought that it would clear up when the engine was
reinstalled. My Uncle just did the same work on his front suspension and
after installing his rebuilt engine, he noticed the same problem. Just as I,
he thought that it would go away after adding the weight of the engine.
Well, it did not, and now he has an excessive amount of toe out at the
wheels. We have both adjusted the centerlink and can't get it in range. I
have checked and rechecked that all pieces are on the proper side, and after
all the BJ8 stub axle can only fit one way...caliper to the rear. What is
going on?
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
XJ6
From "Ron Schonscheck" <schonny at y2consult.com>
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2000 13:03:27 -0600
Subject: Re: Technical Question--Maybe Some Healey content
You can do the pads yourself in about 10 minutes per side, why not?
----- Original Message -----
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2000 6:34 PM
Subject: Technical Question--Maybe Some Healey content
>
> Took my wife's "rice" car to the dealer who said it needed brake pads
> soon--front and rear. They gave me a price which was pretty big, so I
asked
> why. Seems they have a standard practive of pulling the rotors and
> "dressing" them every time they change pads. This way, they said, it will
> eliminate a possible squeal.
>
> Now, I have changed pads in my Brit cars many times and only once dressed
> the rotor and that was because I had scored it.
>
> Is this normal to do, and what if I elect to just have them install the
pads
> only?
>
> TIA
> tom
>
>
From "David" <david_m at radiantsoundworks.com>
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2000 22:07:26 -0700
Subject: Generator pulley
Hi All!
Well even though I don't write very often, I am a member of the list. Mostly
I just sit back and watch (read).
But now I desperately need some help. For the last four months or so, I have
been renovating parts of my BJ8. I don't use the word restore, because it's
not quite to that level. But I have painted and detailed just about
everything inside from the firewall forward. I rebuilt the entire front
suspension and steering. I completely rebuilt the engine. Oh....it was going
SO well! Monday I took the day off from work to put the motor back in. It
and the transmission are now nestled in their place.
Tonight I got home from work and decided to "just do a few little things"
before dinner. I DROPPED MY GENERATOR ON THE FLOOR!!! Cracked the damn
pulley!!!
DOES ANYONE HAVE ONE THAT I CAN BUY???? This wasn't a full resto...I NEED
drive my Healey before it freakin' snows here in Massachusetts!!
I have a BJ8 VIN number HBJ8L29122
My engine number is: 29K/RU/H3763
The numbers on the pulley are: AEG2078
While I have the list's attention, I have a question. After I reassembled
the front end, I noticed that I had a good 10 degrees of toe-out. Now I
rebuilt everything that was worn. All the links and tie-rods were fine, so I
never touched them. I am pretty darn sure that I put everything back as it
should be. King pins....swivel axles....everything. I can't for the life of
me figure out why I should now have this toe-out when I did not have it
before. BTW, my nephew (Csooch1@aol) is doing a full resto on his BJ8. I
sent him an email and he seems to have the same problem. We're both
reasonably competent at doing this kind of work, and we're both confused.
Any Ideas???
Thanks for listening....oh, if any of you guys want to see some pictures of
my new engine....check out the link below.
http://www.radiantsoundworks.com/AustinHealey.html
Dave Masucci
BJ8
TR4A
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2000 22:08:14 EDT
Subject: Re: Rocker Rollers
In a message dated 08/15/2000 8:37:23 PM Central Daylight Time,
neilc@apphosting.com writes:
<< they've been making these for many years. >>
Da*nit, Neil, you are trying to stop the "reinvention of the wheel"!?!?!
Can't you just get you butt on the ship/plane and come and see how that is
done OFTEN!!!
Geeesh, go to bed!!!
Cheers...............
Ed
PS: Hard to type with TRDMCWROTFLMAO!!!!
From Healybj8 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2000 22:10:48 EDT
Subject: Re: Technical Question--Maybe Some Healey content
In a message dated 08/15/2000 8:31:30 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
tfelts@prodigy.net writes:
<< Took my wife's "rice" car to the dealer who said it needed brake pads
soon--front and rear. They gave me a price which was pretty big, so I asked
why. Seems they have a standard practive of pulling the rotors and
"dressing" them every time they change pads. This way, they said, it will
eliminate a possible squeal. >>
Hmmm...Sounds like they are trying to scam you. The squeal comes from the
pads vibrating in the calipers normally. They sell a sort of glue that many
brake shops use to glue the pistons to the brake pads to reduce the squeal
noise. If you don't have any pulsing in the pedal, then I'd say that you
don't have to turn the rotors.
The other thing to think about is that japanese cars have less metal in the
rotors than other cars. Hondas are the worst on this point, and usually have
to have the rotors replaced at each brake job as these cannot be turned due
to the thin nature of the metal. Even if you do have the rotors turned, they
may come back and say later that you need new ones.
Just my experience.
Tim
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2000 22:21:30 -0400
Subject: re weber filters
Rob,
try pierce manifolds, www. piercemanifolds.com
they have a lot of weber stuff , nice site too.
Carroll
From Kent Lacy <oxballs at netzero.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2000 22:31:29 -0400
Subject: Re: Healey basket case price Question
Can you hold it a little closer to the list?
WilKo@aol.com wrote:
> My dad called me and said that there's some guy been sniffin' 'round his yard
> wonderin' if he can talk my dad into selling his 100-Six BN4 basket case.
>
> The car has front damage to the left wing and shroud.
> 6 port head engine is complete and turns. No reason it won't run without a
> little work. Body is original and straight with light rust in the usual
> places.
> Overdrive trans is gone, car has a four speed no overdrive. Interior is
> mostly gone.
> Says the guy offered him $2500 for it.
>
> Does this sound reasonable?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Rick
> San Diego
____________NetZero Free Internet Access and Email_________
Download Now http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html
Request a CDROM 1-800-333-3633
___________________________________________________________
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2000 22:42:44 EDT
Subject: Re: Toe out problem
The steering arm if it is installedon the wrong will give you excessive toe
out
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>Br
itishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From "tom.sue.gebhart" <tom.sue.gebhart at netzero.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2000 21:49:54 -0500
Subject: Austin-Healey 100/100-6/3000 Restoration Guide
Help. I thought I saw on this list, mention of buying a "Austin-Healey
100/100-6/3000 Restoration Guide" signed by the authors (Gary Anderson and
Roger Moment). I didn't save the message like I should have. Can someone
tell me if I'm dreaming or if not, where can I get an autographed copy of
this book? Our local Borders has the "generic" version, but I would gladly
add shipping to get "the real thing". Thanks to all. I really enjoy
reading all (most all) the postings on this list.
Tom & Sue
Gebhart
_____NetZero Free Internet Access and Email______
http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html
From "CRD" <crd at iserv.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2000 22:53:43 -0400
Subject: Fw: Firestone Tires
----- Original Message -----
From: rons <arjayarjay@worldnet.att.net>
To: Bill Katz <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2000 3:38 AM
Subject: Re: Firestone Tires
>
> The WSJ had it that 6.5 million tires is a year's worth of inventory for
> Firestone. No non- strikers or 'scabs' from that single plant could have
> made that many tires during surely what must have been a strike of less
than
> a year. . Let's face it, there's much disinformation going on in this
story.
> All of it eminates from corporate America.
>
> Not only that but other sources have it that Ford says they never heard
> about the failing tires until the last couple of weeks, that all of the
> complaints went straight to Bridgestone who did nothing about them.
>
> Now, who's kidding whom? Do you, for one minute, think that nobody called
> Ford, that no dissatisfied customer went back to his or her Ford dealer to
> complain? That's also ridiculous on the face of it.
>
> It doesn't really matter though, since Ford and Bridgestone are putting
out
> so many unreliable 'facts' that we're all confused. Which, of course, is
> exactly what they want. Witness the discontent already evident on the
Healey
> list! Some people here don't want to bother their heads about it, others
> want to stop all the discussion. Divide and conquer is an old American
> corporate technique. Is it working this time, just read the responses on
> this list.
>
> ----------
> >From: Bill Katz <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
> >To: healeys@autox.team.net
> >Subject: RE: Firestone Tires
> >Date: Mon, Aug 14, 2000, 8:55 PM
> >
>
> >
> > Here is the AP story.
> >
> > Updated 9:04 AM ET August 14, 2000
> >
> >
> > By PHIL WEST, AP Business Writer
> >
> > NASHVILLE, Tenn. (AP) - Workers at a Firestone plant in Illinois were
on
> > strike during the time many of the 6.5 million tires now being
recalled
> > were made, according to an analysis by Ford Motor Co.
> >
> > "When we looked at this data, we said, 'There's something wrong
here,"'
> > Jason Vines, Ford's vice president for communications, said during a
> > teleconference Sunday with
> > reporters and tire company officials.
> >
> > Most of the tires recalled last week - radial ATX, radial ATX II and
> > some Wilderness AT brands - are on
> > Ford sport utility vehicles and light trucks. And most of those tires
> > were built at the Decatur, Ill., plant
> > from 1994 to 1996, Ford said.
> >
> > At the time, United Rubber Workers union members were on strike, and
the
> > plant was operating with
> > replacement workers and managers.
> >
> > The strike began in July 1994. After 10 months, the union offered to
> > return to work without a contract,
> > but the company continued to use mostly replacement workers until a
> > final agreement was reached in
> > late 1996.
> >
> > Bridgestone/Firestone said the strike had nothing to do with the
problems.
> >
> > "That's a pretty far reach," spokeswoman Christine Karbowiak said.
> > Still, "anything is possible," she
> > said. Karbowiak said the Decatur plant has received quality
> > certification from external experts as well
> > as from Ford, General Motors and Nissan.
> >
> > The Washington Post reported that six former Decatur plant workers
claim
> > questionable quality control
> > procedures were used at the plant in the mid-1990s.
> >
> > Ford conducted an analysis of its Firestone tires and the complaints
it
> > had received to pin down where
> > the tires were made and what may have caused the treads on some to
> > separate.
> >
> > The automaker, which used Firestone data, also released documents
> > indicating that complaints about
> > certain Bridgestone/Firestone tires had begun increasing by 1997.
Ford
> > said Bridgestone did not pass
> > the information along.
> >
> > Vines said the number of complaints was 10 times higher for the
15-inch
> > ATX tires made in Decatur
> > than for the Wilderness tires. "The data and the analysis of the data
is
> > that there's a problem with
> > Decatur and that other plants are world class," he said.
> >
> > The No. 2 automaker was expected to release more detailed statistics
> > Monday. Firestone's tires are
> > being investigated by federal officials in connection with more than
300
> > accidents and the deaths of at
> > least 46 people.
> >
> > Larry Werve, who has worked at the Decatur plant for 29 years and is
> > publicity chairman for United
> > Steelworkers Local 713, said replacement workers shouldn't be held
> > responsible.
> >
> > "Even those workers were required to work to standards and their work
> > was monitored by
> > management," said Werve, whose union merged with the Rubber Workers
in
> > 1995.
> >
> > He said union workers had felt singled out by the recall.
> >
> > "We never denied we made some of the tires. I just think
proportionally,
> > the figures don't support that we
> > made all of them," he said. "As far as workmanship, I don't think
that
> > played into it. We made tires to
> > (the company's) specifications."
> >
> > "I don't know anyone working there who would intentionally put out a
bad
> > product," he said.
> >
> > In full-page ads in major newspapers, Ford spelled out that just
15-inch
> > versions of the ATX, ATX II and
> > some Wilderness tires are affected by the recall.
> >
> > The Ford analysis of Firestone tires said the number of claims -
based
> > on property damage, personal
> > injury and lawsuits - was as low at 31 for some Firestone original
> > equipment tires. But the 15-inch tires
> > had 2,030 claims, including 113 this year.
> >
> > Of that number, 1,864 involved the ATX tires, Ford said.
> >
> > Texas had the highest number of complaints, about 370. Arizona
reported
> > about 280 claims while
> > about 230 were recorded in California and 170 in Florida.
> >
> > "We've got such a high volume of tires that looking for the root
cause
> > of the problem is like looking for a
> > needle in a haystack," Bridgestone's Karbowiak said.
> >
> > The tires involved in the recall are P235/75R15 Firestone radial ATX
and
> > radial ATX II tires and
> > Wilderness AT tires carrying the code "VD." Most of the tires
recalled
> > were on Ford vehicles.
> >
> > ---
> > At 01:08 PM 8/14/00 , Pagel, John wrote:
> >
> >> So, here we are, everybody is saying that all these tires are
bad
> >>from '92 to the present...... That was a long strike!!!! Hope the
union
> >>had a good strike fund. So which is it? Some tires made by replacement
> >>workers or all tires made by Firestone? I'm hearing all kinds of things
here
> >>going in all directions. This is a firestorm of accusation. It needs
to
> >>end.
> >>
> >>-----Original Message-----
> >>From: Coop1 [mailto:coop1@dnai.com]
> >>Sent: Monday, August 14, 2000 12:40 PM
> >>To: Editorgary@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
> >>Subject: Re: RE: Firestone Tires
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>I heard that on this morning's news. And, according to a company
spokesman,
> >>"the strike had no affect on this recall issue".
> >>Coop
> >>
> >> >From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
> >> > Another interesting note from this morning's news-- every one of the
tires
> >> > that delaminated was manufactured at one Firestone plant and during a
> >>period
> >> > when workers at that plant were out on strike and the assembly line
was
> >>being
> >> > run by managers and temporary workers.
> >> > Cheers
> >> > gary
> >> >
> >
>
From "CRD" <crd at iserv.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2000 22:54:42 -0400
Subject: Fw: Firestone Tires
Let the GAMES begin......................
Rick
GR8 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: rons <arjayarjay@worldnet.att.net>
To: Bill Katz <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2000 3:38 AM
Subject: Re: Firestone Tires
>
> The WSJ had it that 6.5 million tires is a year's worth of inventory for
> Firestone. No non- strikers or 'scabs' from that single plant could have
> made that many tires during surely what must have been a strike of less
than
> a year. . Let's face it, there's much disinformation going on in this
story.
> All of it eminates from corporate America.
>
> Not only that but other sources have it that Ford says they never heard
> about the failing tires until the last couple of weeks, that all of the
> complaints went straight to Bridgestone who did nothing about them.
>
> Now, who's kidding whom? Do you, for one minute, think that nobody called
> Ford, that no dissatisfied customer went back to his or her Ford dealer to
> complain? That's also ridiculous on the face of it.
>
> It doesn't really matter though, since Ford and Bridgestone are putting
out
> so many unreliable 'facts' that we're all confused. Which, of course, is
> exactly what they want. Witness the discontent already evident on the
Healey
> list! Some people here don't want to bother their heads about it, others
> want to stop all the discussion. Divide and conquer is an old American
> corporate technique. Is it working this time, just read the responses on
> this list.
>
> ----------
> >From: Bill Katz <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
> >To: healeys@autox.team.net
> >Subject: RE: Firestone Tires
> >Date: Mon, Aug 14, 2000, 8:55 PM
> >
>
> >
> > Here is the AP story.
> >
> > Updated 9:04 AM ET August 14, 2000
> >
> >
> > By PHIL WEST, AP Business Writer
> >
> > NASHVILLE, Tenn. (AP) - Workers at a Firestone plant in Illinois were
on
> > strike during the time many of the 6.5 million tires now being
recalled
> > were made, according to an analysis by Ford Motor Co.
> >
> > "When we looked at this data, we said, 'There's something wrong
here,"'
> > Jason Vines, Ford's vice president for communications, said during a
> > teleconference Sunday with
> > reporters and tire company officials.
> >
> > Most of the tires recalled last week - radial ATX, radial ATX II and
> > some Wilderness AT brands - are on
> > Ford sport utility vehicles and light trucks. And most of those tires
> > were built at the Decatur, Ill., plant
> > from 1994 to 1996, Ford said.
> >
> > At the time, United Rubber Workers union members were on strike, and
the
> > plant was operating with
> > replacement workers and managers.
> >
> > The strike began in July 1994. After 10 months, the union offered to
> > return to work without a contract,
> > but the company continued to use mostly replacement workers until a
> > final agreement was reached in
> > late 1996.
> >
> > Bridgestone/Firestone said the strike had nothing to do with the
problems.
> >
> > "That's a pretty far reach," spokeswoman Christine Karbowiak said.
> > Still, "anything is possible," she
> > said. Karbowiak said the Decatur plant has received quality
> > certification from external experts as well
> > as from Ford, General Motors and Nissan.
> >
> > The Washington Post reported that six former Decatur plant workers
claim
> > questionable quality control
> > procedures were used at the plant in the mid-1990s.
> >
> > Ford conducted an analysis of its Firestone tires and the complaints
it
> > had received to pin down where
> > the tires were made and what may have caused the treads on some to
> > separate.
> >
> > The automaker, which used Firestone data, also released documents
> > indicating that complaints about
> > certain Bridgestone/Firestone tires had begun increasing by 1997.
Ford
> > said Bridgestone did not pass
> > the information along.
> >
> > Vines said the number of complaints was 10 times higher for the
15-inch
> > ATX tires made in Decatur
> > than for the Wilderness tires. "The data and the analysis of the data
is
> > that there's a problem with
> > Decatur and that other plants are world class," he said.
> >
> > The No. 2 automaker was expected to release more detailed statistics
> > Monday. Firestone's tires are
> > being investigated by federal officials in connection with more than
300
> > accidents and the deaths of at
> > least 46 people.
> >
> > Larry Werve, who has worked at the Decatur plant for 29 years and is
> > publicity chairman for United
> > Steelworkers Local 713, said replacement workers shouldn't be held
> > responsible.
> >
> > "Even those workers were required to work to standards and their work
> > was monitored by
> > management," said Werve, whose union merged with the Rubber Workers
in
> > 1995.
> >
> > He said union workers had felt singled out by the recall.
> >
> > "We never denied we made some of the tires. I just think
proportionally,
> > the figures don't support that we
> > made all of them," he said. "As far as workmanship, I don't think
that
> > played into it. We made tires to
> > (the company's) specifications."
> >
> > "I don't know anyone working there who would intentionally put out a
bad
> > product," he said.
> >
> > In full-page ads in major newspapers, Ford spelled out that just
15-inch
> > versions of the ATX, ATX II and
> > some Wilderness tires are affected by the recall.
> >
> > The Ford analysis of Firestone tires said the number of claims -
based
> > on property damage, personal
> > injury and lawsuits - was as low at 31 for some Firestone original
> > equipment tires. But the 15-inch tires
> > had 2,030 claims, including 113 this year.
> >
> > Of that number, 1,864 involved the ATX tires, Ford said.
> >
> > Texas had the highest number of complaints, about 370. Arizona
reported
> > about 280 claims while
> > about 230 were recorded in California and 170 in Florida.
> >
> > "We've got such a high volume of tires that looking for the root
cause
> > of the problem is like looking for a
> > needle in a haystack," Bridgestone's Karbowiak said.
> >
> > The tires involved in the recall are P235/75R15 Firestone radial ATX
and
> > radial ATX II tires and
> > Wilderness AT tires carrying the code "VD." Most of the tires
recalled
> > were on Ford vehicles.
> >
> > ---
> > At 01:08 PM 8/14/00 , Pagel, John wrote:
> >
> >> So, here we are, everybody is saying that all these tires are
bad
> >>from '92 to the present...... That was a long strike!!!! Hope the
union
> >>had a good strike fund. So which is it? Some tires made by replacement
> >>workers or all tires made by Firestone? I'm hearing all kinds of things
here
> >>going in all directions. This is a firestorm of accusation. It needs
to
> >>end.
> >>
> >>-----Original Message-----
> >>From: Coop1 [mailto:coop1@dnai.com]
> >>Sent: Monday, August 14, 2000 12:40 PM
> >>To: Editorgary@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
> >>Subject: Re: RE: Firestone Tires
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>I heard that on this morning's news. And, according to a company
spokesman,
> >>"the strike had no affect on this recall issue".
> >>Coop
> >>
> >> >From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
> >> > Another interesting note from this morning's news-- every one of the
tires
> >> > that delaminated was manufactured at one Firestone plant and during a
> >>period
> >> > when workers at that plant were out on strike and the assembly line
was
> >>being
> >> > run by managers and temporary workers.
> >> > Cheers
> >> > gary
> >> >
> >
>
From "John Rowe" <jarowe at connect.comdek.net.au>
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 11:04:17 +0800
Subject: Re: Technical Question--Maybe Some Healey content
The disc brake systems on the modern Japanese and European use a much thiner
disc rotor than on earlier designs. The rotors are designed as a throwaway
item and are replaced about every two sets of pads.
A friend of mine (healey) has a disc machining business and says that his
business has dropped off dramatically in the last few years due to the
replacement style rotors. Some allow only 2mm of wear, absolute maximum.
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
BT7 - that has oldfashioned thick disc rotors
Audi quattro coupe ur with those throw away rotors.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Healybj8@aol.com>
To: <tfelts@prodigy.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2000 10:10 AM
Subject: Re: Technical Question--Maybe Some Healey content
>
> In a message dated 08/15/2000 8:31:30 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> tfelts@prodigy.net writes:
>
> << Took my wife's "rice" car to the dealer who said it needed brake pads
> soon--front and rear. They gave me a price which was pretty big, so I
asked
> why. Seems they have a standard practive of pulling the rotors and
> "dressing" them every time they change pads. This way, they said, it
will
> eliminate a possible squeal. >>
>
> Hmmm...Sounds like they are trying to scam you. The squeal comes from the
> pads vibrating in the calipers normally. They sell a sort of glue that
many
> brake shops use to glue the pistons to the brake pads to reduce the squeal
> noise. If you don't have any pulsing in the pedal, then I'd say that you
> don't have to turn the rotors.
>
> The other thing to think about is that japanese cars have less metal in
the
> rotors than other cars. Hondas are the worst on this point, and usually
have
> to have the rotors replaced at each brake job as these cannot be turned
due
> to the thin nature of the metal. Even if you do have the rotors turned,
they
> may come back and say later that you need new ones.
>
> Just my experience.
>
> Tim
>
From "John Rowe" <jarowe at connect.comdek.net.au>
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 11:09:12 +0800
Subject: Re: Toe out problem
Have the same problem with my BT7. I checked a few other cars and found that
they nearly all had the centre tie rod done up as tight as it would go. Also
spoke to a couple of Healey restorers and the acknowledged that they have
had cases where it was very tight.
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
BT7 in reassembly mode
----- Original Message -----
From: <Csooch1@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2000 9:58 AM
Subject: Toe out problem
>
> I recently redid the kingpins and front suspension on my BJ8. After
> everything was bolted up I noticed that there was an abnormal amount of
toe
> out at the wheels. I thought that it would clear up when the engine was
> reinstalled. My Uncle just did the same work on his front suspension and
> after installing his rebuilt engine, he noticed the same problem. Just as
I,
> he thought that it would go away after adding the weight of the engine.
> Well, it did not, and now he has an excessive amount of toe out at the
> wheels. We have both adjusted the centerlink and can't get it in range.
I
> have checked and rechecked that all pieces are on the proper side, and
after
> all the BJ8 stub axle can only fit one way...caliper to the rear. What is
> going on?
> Cheers,
> Chris
> BJ8
> XJ6
>
From type79 at ix.netcom.com
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 17:09:18 -0400
Subject: Re: Firestone Tires
Yawn......................................................
unsubscribe firestonetires@autox.team.net
subscribe healeys@autox.team.net
jay fishbein
wallingford, ct
From "RadiantSoundWorks" <dmasucci at radiantsoundworks.com>
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2000 22:05:16 -0700
Subject: Generator pully...
Hi All!
Well even though I don't write very often, I am a member of the list. Mostly
I just sit back and watch (read).
But now I desperately need some help. For the last four months or so, I have
been renovating parts of my BJ8. I don't use the word restore, because it's
not quite to that level. But I have painted and detailed just about
everything inside from the firewall forward. I rebuilt the entire front
suspension and steering. I completely rebuilt the engine. Oh....it was going
SO well! Monday I took the day off from work to put the motor back in. It
and the transmission are now nestled in their place.
Tonight I got home from work and decided to "just do a few little things"
before dinner. I DROPPED MY GENERATOR ON THE FLOOR!!! Cracked the damn
pulley!!!
DOES ANYONE HAVE ONE THAT I CAN BUY???? This wasn't a full resto...I NEED
drive my Healey before it freakin' snows here in Massachusetts!!
I have a BJ8 VIN number HBJ8L29122
My engine number is: 29K/RU/H3763
The numbers on the pulley are: AEG2078
While I have the list's attention, I have a question. After I reassembled
the front end, I noticed that I had a good 10 degrees of toe-out. Now I
rebuilt everything that was worn. All the links and tie-rods were fine, so I
never touched them. I am pretty darn sure that I put everything back as it
should be. King pins....swivel axles....everything. I can't for the life of
me figure out why I should now have this toe-out when I did not have it
before. BTW, my nephew (Csooch1@aol) is doing a full resto on his BJ8. I
sent him an email and he seems to have the same problem. We're both
reasonably competent at doing this kind of work, and we're both confused.
Any Ideas???
Thanks for listening....oh, if any of you guys want to see some pictures of
my new engine....check out the link below.
http://www.radiantsoundworks.com/AustinHealey.html
Dave Masucci
BJ8
TR4A
From Alan at roverworks.com (Alan Simpson)
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2000 20:52:42 -0700
Subject: Re: Technical Question--Maybe Some Healey content
>>
>> Hmmm...Sounds like they are trying to scam you. The squeal comes from the
>> pads vibrating in the calipers normally.
>
As an interprovincially licensed mechanic I would refuse to merely replace
a set of pads. The rotors on modern vehicles are far more size sensitive
than our Healeys. The rotors can suffer all sorts of distortion that can
only be revealed in a brake lathe. I suggest you follow your shop's advice.
It is not normal for brakes to squeal. Alan
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 00:12:02 EDT
Subject: Fwd: Trunk (boot) seal
--part1_66.6905d78.26cb6e92_boundary
--part1_66.6905d78.26cb6e92_boundary
Content-Disposition: inline
Return-path: <JSoderling@aol.com>
From: JSoderling@aol.com
Full-name: JSoderling
Message-ID: <42.973eec6.26cb6de8@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 00:09:12 EDT
Subject: Re: Trunk (boot) seal
To: Awgertoo@aol.com
MIME-Version: 1.0
X-Mailer: AOL 5.0 for Windows sub 118
Michael,
The Rubber seal in the boot lid of my 100-Six is "U" or channel
shaped of light rubber and when closed the inside of the channel fits over
the turned up metal edge of the shroud around the boot opening. At that
point the rubber is only about 1/8 of an inch thick. If your seal is like
mine, there is no way it could create a bulge in the lid. The rubber channel
material is only about 1/8 inch thick.
John
100-Six Erika the Red
--part1_66.6905d78.26cb6e92_boundary--
From David Woerpel <dwoerpel at wi.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2000 23:48:31 -0500
Subject: Re: Firestone Tires/switch to Healey's
couldn't have said it better. enough.
Dave ( checks pressures religiously, owns an Explorer, and Wilderness
AT's with separating tread)
59 :{)
59 MGA
type79@ix.netcom.com wrote:
> Yawn......................................................
>
> unsubscribe firestonetires@autox.team.net
>
> subscribe healeys@autox.team.net
>
> jay fishbein
> wallingford, ct
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 00:56:33 -0400
Subject: Re: RE: Firestone Tires
>Unfortunately, "the biggest idiots out there" probably represent
>70% of the driving population. I really hate to agree with DickB
>on this one, but maybe SUV tires have to be made idiot proof.
>
>Its like salmonella - all that costly effort to remove those bugs
>from our uncooked retail meat can be eliminated by intelligent
>cooking and counter hygiene with the end user.
I'm afraid you missed my point entirely, but it is exactly like salmonella.
All of the do-gooder rules and regulations make it so that the caterer
couldn't to "cook to order" burgers at our company party for fear of our
litigious society.
How about the ancient concept of people taking personal responsibility for
their own actions? I'm tired of the liberal bureaucrats passing laws to
protect me from myself. I know it is a frightening concept to some, but by
espousing these causes you are paving the way for the government to ban our
Healeys because they don't mean airbag/seat belt and a host of other
regulations supposedly put in place for our own good.
Lee Mairs
'62 BT7 Tri-carb
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 01:00:33 -0400
Subject: Re: Trunk (boot) seal
>Michael Oritt wrote:
>> My boot lid had no rubber gasket and occasionally leaked a bit, so I
I agree with Rich that you may have the wrong material. The gas tank seal I
purchased from Hemphill's along with my new tank was too thick. I couldn't
get the retaining straps through the bolt holes with the "new" gasket. I
had to reuse the older material.
Lee
'62 BT7 Tri-carb
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 01:28:40 -0400
Subject: Re: Brake squeal
>Hmmm...Sounds like they are trying to scam you. The squeal comes from the
>pads vibrating in the calipers normally. They sell a sort of glue that
many
>brake shops use to glue the pistons to the brake pads to reduce the squeal
>noise
Tim -
My breaks squeal like mad when I first drive the car after letting her sit
for a week or so. The squeal then goes away (Or is it so piercing that I
become deaf???)
How does this square with "...pads vibrating in the calipers..."?
Lee
'62 BT7 Tri-carb
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 01:38:37 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Firestone Tires/switch to Healey's
Well, you could have said something like "I Selfishly agree"
BTW, how long do you plan to endanger the rest of us by driving on your rotten
Wilderness ATs?
---- you wrote:
>
> couldn't have said it better. enough.
> Dave ( checks pressures religiously, owns an Explorer, and Wilderness
> AT's with separating tread)
> 59 :{)
> 59 MGA
>
>
> type79@ix.netcom.com wrote:
>
> > Yawn......................................................
> >
> > unsubscribe firestonetires@autox.team.net
> >
> > subscribe healeys@autox.team.net
> >
> > jay fishbein
> > wallingford, ct
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From David Woerpel <dwoerpel at wi.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 00:43:46 -0500
Subject: Re: Firestone Tires/switch to Healey's
For your information, as if it's any of your damn business, there is a waiting
list for tires. I
am not driving the vehicle.
dickb@cheerful.com wrote:
> Well, you could have said something like "I Selfishly agree"
>
> BTW, how long do you plan to endanger the rest of us by driving on your
>rotten Wilderness ATs?
>
> ---- you wrote:
> >
> > couldn't have said it better. enough.
> > Dave ( checks pressures religiously, owns an Explorer, and Wilderness
> > AT's with separating tread)
> > 59 :{)
> > 59 MGA
> >
> >
> > type79@ix.netcom.com wrote:
> >
> > > Yawn......................................................
> > >
> > > unsubscribe firestonetires@autox.team.net
> > >
> > > subscribe healeys@autox.team.net
> > >
> > > jay fishbein
> > > wallingford, ct
> >
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> Get your free email from AltaVista at http://altavista.iname.com
From "Andy King" <healey-100 at hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2000 20:45:40 -1000
Subject: Re: Toe out problem
Did you replace the side rods there are different length rods from early to
late healeys I think? don't know when the change over was.
I'll bet healeyguy@aol.com Knows .
----- Original Message -----
From: <Csooch1@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2000 3:58 PM
Subject: Toe out problem
>
> I recently redid the kingpins and front suspension on my BJ8. After
> everything was bolted up I noticed that there was an abnormal amount of
toe
> out at the wheels. I thought that it would clear up when the engine was
> reinstalled. My Uncle just did the same work on his front suspension and
> after installing his rebuilt engine, he noticed the same problem. Just as
I,
> he thought that it would go away after adding the weight of the engine.
> Well, it did not, and now he has an excessive amount of toe out at the
> wheels. We have both adjusted the centerlink and can't get it in range.
I
> have checked and rechecked that all pieces are on the proper side, and
after
> all the BJ8 stub axle can only fit one way...caliper to the rear. What is
> going on?
> Cheers,
> Chris
> BJ8
> XJ6
From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 19:55:58 +1000
Subject: Re: Firestone Tires/switch to Healey's
Enough already.
I think all has been said on this topic.
How about everyone agree to disagree and all get back to Healey stuff.
Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
----- Original Message -----
From: <dickb@cheerful.com>
To: "David Woerpel" <dwoerpel@wi.net>
Cc: "austin healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, 16 August 2000 15:38
Subject: Re: Firestone Tires/switch to Healey's
>
> Well, you could have said something like "I Selfishly agree"
>
> BTW, how long do you plan to endanger the rest of us by driving on your
rotten Wilderness ATs?
>
>
> ---- you wrote:
> >
> > couldn't have said it better. enough.
> > Dave ( checks pressures religiously, owns an Explorer, and Wilderness
> > AT's with separating tread)
> > 59 :{)
> > 59 MGA
> >
> >
> > type79@ix.netcom.com wrote:
> >
> > > Yawn......................................................
> > >
> > > unsubscribe firestonetires@autox.team.net
> > >
> > > subscribe healeys@autox.team.net
> > >
> > > jay fishbein
> > > wallingford, ct
> >
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
From "John Rowe" <jarowe at connect.comdek.net.au>
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 19:02:20 +0800
Subject: Re: Toe out problem
The side rods would need to be shorter so the centre rod can remain at the
correct length to maintain the same number of steering wheel turns from the
centre position to each side.
Been there done that. I made new adjustable side rods with the same tie rod
ends as the later model 3000's.
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
BT7 in resto with a completed front suspension.
----- Original Message -----
From: Andy King <healey-100@hawaii.rr.com>
To: <Csooch1@aol.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2000 2:45 PM
Subject: Re: Toe out problem
>
> Did you replace the side rods there are different length rods from early
to
> late healeys I think? don't know when the change over was.
> I'll bet healeyguy@aol.com Knows .
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Csooch1@aol.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2000 3:58 PM
> Subject: Toe out problem
>
>
> >
> > I recently redid the kingpins and front suspension on my BJ8. After
> > everything was bolted up I noticed that there was an abnormal amount of
> toe
> > out at the wheels. I thought that it would clear up when the engine was
> > reinstalled. My Uncle just did the same work on his front suspension
and
> > after installing his rebuilt engine, he noticed the same problem. Just
as
> I,
> > he thought that it would go away after adding the weight of the engine.
> > Well, it did not, and now he has an excessive amount of toe out at the
> > wheels. We have both adjusted the centerlink and can't get it in range.
> I
> > have checked and rechecked that all pieces are on the proper side, and
> after
> > all the BJ8 stub axle can only fit one way...caliper to the rear. What
is
> > going on?
> > Cheers,
> > Chris
> > BJ8
> > XJ6
>
>
From "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos at email.msn.com>
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 05:50:43 -0600
Subject: Re: Firestone Tires
Hey I've got a good one, What does Bill tell Hillary after
sex?................I'll be home in fifteen minutes............Hanks
Martinizing
----- Original Message -----
From: <Csooch1@aol.com>
To: <dickb@cheerful.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 12, 2000 1:43 PM
Subject: Re: Firestone Tires
>
> Does anyone on the list have Firestone tires on their Healey?
>
> No - Then none of these emails pertain to this list...find the 8000 lb
brick
> with wheels list somewhere else.
>
> Yes - Unfortunate, but now you have a reason to put on some Avon or
Dunlop.
>
> Let us move on,
> Chris
>
From Healybj8 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 08:16:00 EDT
Subject: Re: Brake squeal
Well, as a guess, I'd say that the rust layer that has built up on the rotors
is being rubbed off, and that is the cause of the vibration. Once you have
polished up the rotors through use, then they become smooth again and the
squeal goes away. Remember the pads are sitting loose in the caliper, and can
vibrate as much as they like. If the rotors sit for a while, then natural
oxidation can cause a film of material to form on the survace. This is
inherantly less smooth than the metal, thus causing additional vibration.
Sound logical?
Tim
Tim -
My breaks squeal like mad when I first drive the car after letting her sit
for a week or so. The squeal then goes away (Or is it so piercing that I
become deaf???)
How does this square with "...pads vibrating in the calipers..."?
Lee
'62 BT7 Tri-carb
>>
From "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej at mossmotors.com>
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 06:19:31 -0700
Subject: RE: Technical Question--Maybe Some Healey content
My ex-girlfriend had an Aerostar that would warp rotors about every 6
months. Apparently a commmon problem with that car. It made we wonder
about modern brake technology.
Personally I would inspect the rotors for scoring and trueness and determine
myself if they need turning. Changing brake pads is pretty easy on every
car I've ever worked on. Though I tend to avoid this newfangled japanese
stuff.
-----Original Message-----
From: Healybj8@aol.com [mailto:Healybj8@aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2000 7:11 PM
To: tfelts@prodigy.net; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Technical Question--Maybe Some Healey content
In a message dated 08/15/2000 8:31:30 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
tfelts@prodigy.net writes:
<< Took my wife's "rice" car to the dealer who said it needed brake pads
soon--front and rear. They gave me a price which was pretty big, so I
asked
why. Seems they have a standard practive of pulling the rotors and
"dressing" them every time they change pads. This way, they said, it will
eliminate a possible squeal. >>
Hmmm...Sounds like they are trying to scam you. The squeal comes from the
pads vibrating in the calipers normally. They sell a sort of glue that many
brake shops use to glue the pistons to the brake pads to reduce the squeal
noise. If you don't have any pulsing in the pedal, then I'd say that you
don't have to turn the rotors.
The other thing to think about is that japanese cars have less metal in the
rotors than other cars. Hondas are the worst on this point, and usually
have
to have the rotors replaced at each brake job as these cannot be turned due
to the thin nature of the metal. Even if you do have the rotors turned,
they
may come back and say later that you need new ones.
Just my experience.
Tim
From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 08:49:58 -0500
Subject: Re: Rocker Rollers
John:
Answer to their claims:
a: 10 more HP. Maybe if the cam, head, ignition curve, carbs and intakes
are reconfigured for the additional lift. More lift means more potential
air and power at high rpms. It also portends less low end torque and
possible diminished performance in the "streetable" rpm range.
b. Maybe. If the geometry is changed to cause a straighter line, then
less wear on the valve guides but the push rod still goes up and down the
same number of times. Wear on the end of the push rod is minimal with
either set up.
c. Probably. The billet aluminum rocker is likely stronger than the OEM
set up. But you only need stronger springs if you are planning to run the
car a very high revs constantly.
Denis Welch also offers the same set up. It is a Competition Cams unit
modified to fit the AH. Of course his kit is almost $1,000 shipped to the US!
Best regards
Jim Hockert
Dallas, TX
BJ8 Rallye
From M Brouillette <mbrouill at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 09:52:14 -0400
Subject: RE: Technical Question--Maybe Some Healey content
Part of the problem with warped rotors is these guys who put on the tires
with airwrenches set a bit too high. I've heard from a couple mechanics
that some guys tighten the rims too tight causing the rotors to warp...
At 06:19 AM 8/16/00 -0700, Lane, Jonathan wrote:
>My ex-girlfriend had an Aerostar that would warp rotors about every 6
>months. Apparently a commmon problem with that car. It made we wonder
>about modern brake technology.
>
>Personally I would inspect the rotors for scoring and trueness and determine
>myself if they need turning. Changing brake pads is pretty easy on every
>car I've ever worked on. Though I tend to avoid this newfangled japanese
>stuff.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Healybj8@aol.com [mailto:Healybj8@aol.com]
>Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2000 7:11 PM
>To: tfelts@prodigy.net; healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: Technical Question--Maybe Some Healey content
>
>
>
>In a message dated 08/15/2000 8:31:30 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
>tfelts@prodigy.net writes:
>
><< Took my wife's "rice" car to the dealer who said it needed brake pads
> soon--front and rear. They gave me a price which was pretty big, so I
>asked
> why. Seems they have a standard practive of pulling the rotors and
> "dressing" them every time they change pads. This way, they said, it will
> eliminate a possible squeal. >>
>
>Hmmm...Sounds like they are trying to scam you. The squeal comes from the
>pads vibrating in the calipers normally. They sell a sort of glue that many
>
>brake shops use to glue the pistons to the brake pads to reduce the squeal
>noise. If you don't have any pulsing in the pedal, then I'd say that you
>don't have to turn the rotors.
>
>The other thing to think about is that japanese cars have less metal in the
>rotors than other cars. Hondas are the worst on this point, and usually
>have
>to have the rotors replaced at each brake job as these cannot be turned due
>to the thin nature of the metal. Even if you do have the rotors turned,
>they
>may come back and say later that you need new ones.
>
>Just my experience.
>
>Tim
From rfeibusch at loop.com (Richard Feibusch)
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 07:09:08 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Palo Alto British Car Meet 2000
The 2000 Palo Alto British Car Meet
SATURDAY & SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 9th & 10th
/////////////////////////////////////////////////////
* Saturday, September 9th - Join us for a fun-filled morning Brunch Tour to
The Sea coordinated by British Car Magazine. We've decided to move the
rendezvous for this Saturday event to the British Car Magazine parking lot
in Los Altos rather than competing with trillions of soccer moms in
suburban assault vehicles at El Camino Park.
The location is on San Antonio Road in Los Altos, between Whitney and
Second Streets. From 101, exit on San Antonio West towards Los Altos.
Proceed half a mile past stop lights at Edith and turn right at Whitney (76
station). From 280, exit on El Monte going east towards Los Altos, turn
left on Foothill expressway, then right on San Antonio and finally left on
Whitney (76 station). Cars will be staged between 9:00AM & 10:30AM.
This FREE tour offers an optional barbecue buffet (ribs, chicken, etc.) in
Cameron's Pub party room by the parking lot at the cost of $18.50 per
person or you may order'//l,,. There will be no preregistration but please
let the British Car Magazine staff know if you plan to attend.
For tour information call: 650-949-9680 or email: BritCarMag@aol.com
////////////////////////////////////////////////////
* Sunday, September 10th - Be part of one of the biggest British car shows
in America! Over 800 cars are expected to fill El Camino Park in Palo Alto.
Daily drivers, street rods and works-in-progress are as welcome as Concours
quality show cars. Great British food, live music and more fun than you'll
be able to tolerate! All participants will receive a meet memento. Field
entry starts at 9:00AM. There is no preregistration. Fee is only $20 per
car at the gate. Spectators attend free!
El Camino Park is on the El Camino Real, one block north of University
Avenue opposite the main entrance to the Stanford Shopping Center. From
101, take the University Avenue exit west, turn north onto the El Camino,
then turn right into the park.
For meet information call: 310-392-6605 or email: rfeibusch@loop.com
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 08:17:40 -0600
Subject: Re: Firestone Tires
Hey Henry, did you see Clinton's speech? I think he was wearing one of
Monica's ties......
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
59 AH :{) 54 BN1
Click below for webpage and mopeds:
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
----- Original Message -----
From: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@email.msn.com>
To: <Csooch1@aol.com>; <dickb@cheerful.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2000 5:50 AM
Subject: Re: Firestone Tires
>
> Hey I've got a good one, What does Bill tell Hillary after
> sex?................I'll be home in fifteen minutes............Hanks
> Martinizing
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Csooch1@aol.com>
> To: <dickb@cheerful.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, August 12, 2000 1:43 PM
> Subject: Re: Firestone Tires
>
>
> >
> > Does anyone on the list have Firestone tires on their Healey?
> >
> > No - Then none of these emails pertain to this list...find the 8000 lb
> brick
> > with wheels list somewhere else.
> >
> > Yes - Unfortunate, but now you have a reason to put on some Avon or
> Dunlop.
> >
> > Let us move on,
> > Chris
> >
>
>
>
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 10:30:43 -0400
Subject: Re: Brake squeal
Absolutely! Thanks for the info.
-----Original Message-----
From: Healybj8@aol.com <Healybj8@aol.com>
To: lmairs@ix.netcom.com <lmairs@ix.netcom.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, August 16, 2000 8:16 AM
Subject: Re: Brake squeal
>Well, as a guess, I'd say that the rust layer that has built up on the
rotors is being rubbed off, and that is the cause of the vibration. Once
you have polished up the rotors through use, then they become smooth again
and the squeal goes away. Remember the pads are sitting loose in the
caliper, and can vibrate as much as they like. If the rotors sit for a
while, then natural oxidation can cause a film of material to form on the
survace. This is inherantly less smooth than the metal, thus causing
additional vibration.
>
>Sound logical?
>
>Tim
>
>
>Tim -
>My breaks squeal like mad when I first drive the car after letting her sit
>for a week or so. The squeal then goes away (Or is it so piercing that I
>become deaf???)
>How does this square with "...pads vibrating in the calipers..."?
>
>Lee
>'62 BT7 Tri-carb
>
> >>
>
>
From "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej at mossmotors.com>
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 07:44:19 -0700
Subject: RE: Trunk (boot) seal
I would be interested to know some more info on the seal you received.
Cross section dimensions, firmness of the seal, etc. Did you have an old
seal? If so how did it compare?
Let me know, I'll check it out.
-----Original Message-----
From: RL Chrysler [mailto:lchrysl@fhs.csu.McMaster.CA]
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2000 4:49 PM
To: Awgertoo@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Trunk (boot) seal
Michael Oritt wrote:
> My boot lid had no rubber gasket and occasionally leaked a bit, so I
ordered
> a "trunk seal" from Moss. The parts catalogue says: "Glues into channel
on
> trunk lid", but no matter how I try to fit it (at this point dry, not
glued)
> I seem to be creating a signifigant bulge in the lid. Without the seal
the
> fit between shroud and lid is quite good, as both are on same plane. With
> even a short piece of gasket in place in the lid groove the lid seems to
be
> forced up about 1/4". I cannot imagine that the lid would close well, if
at
> all, were the gasket in place all the way around. Has anyone got any
> suggestions or experience that they can share?
>
> Thanks--Michael Oritt, BN1
I would first hazard to say that perhaps the rubber cross section you
purchased may not be correct. I've seen some that are on the market that are
absolutely ridiculous, and from quite reputable firms. What you need is a
fairly soft section that has a very shallow dished total height section. The
outboard edge should be relatively squared off, and fit into and up against
the vertical flange, while the inboard edge flares inboard somewhat. This
rubber glues completely around the inside perimeter of the lid, with the end
joint at the top middle, that is to say nearest the cockpit rail, and in the
centre.
Hope this helps.
Rich Chrysler
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 08:05:24 -0700
Subject: Re: Rocker Rollers
Hi Neil,
I found the web site for Harland Sharp at
http://www.harlandsharp.com/Home.html . I couldn't find any LBC Roller
Rockers listed but I e-mailed them asking for more info. It looks like a
very well made product, especially the addition of needle bearings at
all pivots.
As others have mentioned Denis Welsh Motors makes Roller Rockers
http://www.bighealey.co.uk/home.htm
DMD australia also has a solution which incorporates a rocker cover
casting http://www.dmdaustralia.com.au/roller_rockers.htm They also
have a chart and overview of the rocker ratio vs. valve opening.
When you said it made a big difference to the car, please elaborate. Did
you make any other changes to the engine at the same time? Was there a
decrease in performance at lower rpms?
Thanks,
John
Neil Cotty wrote:
>
> All,
>
> FWIW - There is a Company in Ohio - Custom Speed Parts, who produce Harland
> Sharp brand Roller Rocker arms. They've been around since the 50's I believe
> and produce high quality Roller Rocker arms for various Brit cars. I'm sure
> they'd have sets for the Healey's.
>
> I bought a set of 1.6ratio for my MGA. They work out around $25.00 an arm
> and they've been making these for many years. Bushed & reamed to fit std
> shafts. Sorry, don't have a phone number handy. I'm very happy with my set,
> made a big difference to the car and very nice quality.
>
> Cheers,
> Neil
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Mark Fawcett <fawcett1@mediaone.net>
> To: Pagel, John <John.Pagel@imotors.com>; 'RL Chrysler'
> <lchrysl@fhs.csu.McMaster.CA>; John Loftus <loftusdesign@home.com>;
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2000 11:05 AM
> Subject: Re: Rocker Rollers
>
> >
> > Sign me up! If this on the level I'll buy them.
> > Mark Fawcett
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Pagel, John <John.Pagel@imotors.com>
> > To: 'RL Chrysler' <lchrysl@fhs.csu.McMaster.CA>; John Loftus
> > <loftusdesign@home.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2000 1:40 PM
> > Subject: RE: Rocker Rollers
> >
> >
> > >
> > > These sound good, I was researching various ways of upgrading my
> > > valvetrain and was looking at adapting different alloy roller
> > rockers.
> > > And this business is in my neck of the woods, the price seems right,
> > almost
> > > too good to be true, I'm very interested.
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: RL Chrysler [mailto:lchrysl@fhs.csu.McMaster.CA]
> > > Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2000 1:09 PM
> > > To: John Loftus; healeys@autox.team.net
> > > Subject: Re: Rocker Rollers
> > >
> > >
> > > John,
> > > Is this for a six cylinder, or for the four?
> > > Rich Chrysler
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: John Loftus <loftusdesign@home.com>
> > > To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2000 2:44 PM
> > > Subject: Rocker Rollers
> > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > > Hi all,
> > > >
> > > > In my quest for Rocker Shaft rebuilding sources I spoke to Rocker
> > Arm
> > > > Specialists in Anderson CA at 19841 Hirsch Court, Anderson, CA
> > 96007
> > > > Tel. (530) 378-1075.
> > > >
> > > > They are getting material together to produce Roller Rocker Arm
> > > > assemblies for Healeys within the next couple months. You supply
> > your
> > > > old rocker arm assembly as a core and they will rebuild it with:
> > > >
> > > > 1. 2024 aluminium CNC machined Roller Rocker arms with roller tip.
> > 1.5
> > > > exact ratio.
> > > > 2. Resurfaced and hard chromed shaft (from your original)
> > > > 3. Bronze bushings, honed to size (reaming is possible but claims
> > the
> > > > honing process they use is better and no problems with embedded
> > > > particles)
> > > > 4. New stock type adjusting screws
> > > > 5. Reassembled
> > > >
> > > > Price: approx. US$300.00 plus shipping (30 years in business and
> > operate
> > > > at the wholesale level)
> > > >
> > > > They claim the following advantages (please confirm, challenge or
> > > > correct as necessary):
> > > >
> > > > a. The 1.5 ratio should give about 10 hp increase.
> > > >
> > > > b. The valve guide wear should be greatly reduced with a roller
> > > > assembly.
> > > >
> > > > c. Heavier valve springs can be used.
> > > >
> > > > I told them I would post this to the list and find out how much
> > interest
> > > > there is and if there are any requests for other modifications
> > (1.6
> > > > ratio?, CNC support towers, accommodation for longer valve stem
> > height,
> > > > etc.)
> > > >
> > > > If you are interested in ordering, let me know so they can
> > anticipate
> > > > production quantities. No financial interest, yadayada
> > > >
> > > > Thanks,
> > > > John
> > > >
> >
> >
> >
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 11:48:19 EDT
Subject: Re: Firestone Tires
This is a test to see if anyone is still reading the tire thread.
New shipment of Texas Kooler Fans is on it's way to NTAHC. Get yours while it
is still hot out.
Don
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 11:48:18 EDT
Subject: Re: Rocker Rollers
In a message dated 8/16/2000 10:21:16 Central Daylight Time,
loftusdesign@home.com writes:
<< It looks like a
very well made product, especially the addition of needle bearings at
all pivots. >>
If these needle bearings do not rotate past the next needle in the bearing
you will soon find a knurled pattern on your rocker shaft. No theroy, just
experience.
Don
NTAHC
From timoran at ticnet.com
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 17:20:59 GMT
Subject: Re: Firestone Tires
Gee Don,
I wish that I had said that.
Y'all are invited to go see the "Texas Cooler" for yourselves at
www.ntahc.austin1.com
------------------------------------------------------
Drtrite@aol.com writes:
>
> This is a test to see if anyone is still reading the tire thread.
>
> New shipment of Texas Kooler Fans is on it's way to NTAHC. Get yours while it
> is still hot out.
>
> Don
From "Chris Woodall" <cwoodall at mnsi.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 13:24:24 -0400
Subject: Misc parts
Dear Listers:
I am looking for a couple of small pieces that I am missing for a 1960 BT7.
I am not making a concours car and have re-used as much of the original
pieces as possible, therefore would like to match with used pieces.
I am looking for used heat shield pieces that go along the front/top of the
drivers footwell (2 pieces).
As well, I have salvaged all the aluminum door trim except for one of the
curved inner pieces. If anyone has a used one available, please contact me
off list.
Any help with this is greatly appreciated.
Chris Woodall
Windsor, Ontario, Canada
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 11:33:39 -0700
Subject: Re: Rocker Rollers
More info...
The 100-4 Roller Rocker Arm rebuild will cost about US $200.00 to
220.00. The only difference that Rocker Arm Specialists has noticed
between the 4 cyl. and 6 cyl. rocker arms is that the 4 cyl. used a
coarser thread on the adjuster. BTW, I also learned they will be putting
a steel threaded insert into the alum. for the adjuster as aluminium
threads are prone to fatigue.
RAS is looking for a Healey engine in their area to double check valve
cover clearance, pushrod geometry, etc. as they are designing the parts
so if you have an avail. or extra engine and are in the northern CA area
give 'em a call. They already have a design for a slant 6 motor so they
are adapting their design for the Healey motors and they also plan to
make them for other LBC's. Their rebuilds come with a full warranty and
the parts will be able to be easily rebuilt in the future.
o.k. I'm sounding too much like a salesman so I'll stop. I'm not even
sure if I'm going to go this route until I find out more about the
performance advantages and disadvantages i.e. I don't want to lose low
end torque or have a rough idling car but this list is a great place to
gather opinions and facts (sometimes) which lead to educated decisions.
Later,
John
RL Chrysler wrote:
>
> Yes,
> I for one would like to see a quote for the four cylinder model.
> Rich Chrysler
>
> > Rich,
> >
> > The info was for a six cylinder. If anyone is interested in 4 cylinder
> > versions I'll check into it.
> >
> > John Loftus
> > BJ7
> >
> >
> > RL Chrysler wrote:
> > >
> > > John,
> > > Is this for a six cylinder, or for the four?
> > > Rich Chrysler
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: John Loftus <loftusdesign@home.com>
> > > To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2000 2:44 PM
> > > Subject: Rocker Rollers
> > >
> > > >
> > > > Hi all,
> > > >
> > > > In my quest for Rocker Shaft rebuilding sources I spoke to Rocker Arm
> > > > Specialists in Anderson CA at 19841 Hirsch Court, Anderson, CA 96007
> > > > Tel. (530) 378-1075.
> > > >
> > > > They are getting material together to produce Roller Rocker Arm
> > > > assemblies for Healeys within the next couple months. You supply your
> > > > old rocker arm assembly as a core and they will rebuild it with:
> > > >
> > > > 1. 2024 aluminium CNC machined Roller Rocker arms with roller tip. 1.5
> > > > exact ratio.
> > > > 2. Resurfaced and hard chromed shaft (from your original)
> > > > 3. Bronze bushings, honed to size (reaming is possible but claims the
> > > > honing process they use is better and no problems with embedded
> > > > particles)
> > > > 4. New stock type adjusting screws
> > > > 5. Reassembled
> > > >
> > > > Price: approx. US$300.00 plus shipping (30 years in business and
> operate
> > > > at the wholesale level)
> > > >
> > > > They claim the following advantages (please confirm, challenge or
> > > > correct as necessary):
> > > >
> > > > a. The 1.5 ratio should give about 10 hp increase.
> > > >
> > > > b. The valve guide wear should be greatly reduced with a roller
> > > > assembly.
> > > >
> > > > c. Heavier valve springs can be used.
> > > >
> > > > I told them I would post this to the list and find out how much
> interest
> > > > there is and if there are any requests for other modifications (1.6
> > > > ratio?, CNC support towers, accommodation for longer valve stem
> height,
> > > > etc.)
> > > >
> > > > If you are interested in ordering, let me know so they can anticipate
> > > > production quantities. No financial interest, yadayada
> > > >
> > > > Thanks,
> > > > John
> > > >
> >
From RAWDAWGS at aol.com
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 14:57:16 EDT
Subject: Check out eBayMotors item 409783456 (Ends Aug-21-00 14:07:45 PDT) -
1957-60 A
. Ever seen a hood scoop like this? The crease would suggest an early BN4.
Might be a rare factory rally piece!<A
HREF="http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=409783
456&r=0&t=0">Click here: eBayMotors item 409783456 (Ends Aug-21-00 14:07:45
PDT) - 1957-60 Austin Healey 100/6, 3000 Hood</A>
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 15:14:21 -0500
Subject: Re: Firestone Tires& ships & sails & sealing wax
hi don ( you jerk )
i'm sure you meant tire tread and not tire thread.
don't get everyone inflamed with the idea of a tx kooler before you know
whether they can pass the kooler test. they may still be reeling from brake
fluid, rotors, plug wires from bees, tires, too much toe out and too much rock
and roll.
everyone go take a healey ride and clear out the cobwebs !!
----- Original Message -----
From: Drtrite@aol.com
To: lmairs@ix.netcom.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Firestone Tires
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 11:48:19 EDT
This is a test to see if anyone is still reading the tire thread.
New shipment of Texas Kooler Fans is on it's way to NTAHC. Get yours while it
is still hot out.
Don
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 17:57:28 EDT
Subject: Bilstein Kit driving
Well, I finally got the bolts I needed to install the front shocks to my car
(the kit has the right stuff, my car did not-on one side) The PO had new nuts
welded into the towers that were 7/16x 14TPI or something...16TPI...whatever.
So, about the ride. The shocks are excellent at doing what they're supposed to
do-keeping the tires on the road. The result is a bit more firm than expected.
The car now has a very positive "feel" on the road. very sure footed and stable
up into the 100 MPH range. What I am noticing is that with the drive to create
a very positive contact with the road, the Bilstein folks make no apparent
compromise in relation to the ride, resulting in a rather rough ride better
suited to "enthusiastic" driving.
I'm not complaining, as I drive very spirited in my Healey, but the ride at
freeway speeds feels to me a bit "harsh". I mention this only so that drivers
can understand this and make an educated decision about how they can change
their own suspension.
The Bilsteins provide a very "firm" feel and are quite "stiff" compared to the
stock lever arm dampers. On concrete freeways the car (at average highway
speed-60-70) the car is bouncy but this seems to smooth as speed is increased.
I'm thinking that long drives would get a bit tiresome.
I realise that for pure performance the Bilstein will test very good for
adhesion and such, but IMHO there is room in the equation for a slightly
smoother ride, while still maintaining a very good performance.
Before I was able to install the fronts I drove the car with only the back
installed and found that the Bilsteins did a great job keeping the live axle
down on the pavement while the stock levers did an ok job smoothing the bumps
as the car hit 'em.
Variables to report on my car:
BN6 (two-seater), 3000 mkI-II front coil springs(3 years new), rear leafs (3
years new), 7/8" Addco antiroll bar, 165/SR 15 tires on steel disc wheels (tire
pressure may be too high). Alternative tires are 195/60's on Minilite 6" wide
wheels (haven't yet driven them with the Bilsteins).
That's my story after about 200 miles on the four Bilsteins (since monday
night!)
Questions/comments/others with Bilsteins?
Rick Wilkins
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 18:22:59 EDT
Subject: Re: Bilstein Kit driving
Just a note on the mounting of tube shocks.
I have been working on a kit to mount Spax ADJUSTABLE shocks on my BJ8. I
have Spax shocks on my Jensen Healey and find they work great. When I want a
smooth ride I just turn the adjustment screw out. For a firm ride the screw
is turned in.
Should have some in about November.
Don
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 18:32:16 -0400
Subject: spring height
Could someone please tell me the correct free standing (unsprung as in on
the bench) height for coil springs late BJ8. Moss sent two diff Heights 10
< 1/4 and 10< 1/8 .
TIA
Carroll 64 BJ8
From "Neil Cotty" <neilc at apphosting.com>
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2000 09:13:13 +1000
Subject: Re: Rocker Rollers
John,
> very well made product, especially the addition of needle bearings at
> all pivots.
As another lister mentioned, you really don't want needle bearings in the
body of the Rocker in our British cars. The bearings become sloppy quite
fast as the lions share of the load is taken by only a few of the needles in
the bearing. The Custom Speed Parts Rockers are bushed as per stock, these
provide a much longer life. A good combination would be Bushed Roller
Rockers and a Tuftrided Rocker shaft.
> When you said it made a big difference to the car, please elaborate. Did
> you make any other changes to the engine at the same time? Was there a
> decrease in performance at lower rpms?
No noticeable loss at low rpms and no I fitted these rockers after I'd been
driving her for a while with some other mods. I did notice that the car
liked to rev more freely at the top end after the rockers. The rockers were
also louder than before and the engine generally felt more flexible and
powerful above 4500rpm. My MGA will rev out to 6500 these days and feel
strong all the way up there. She has a mildy ported MGB big chamber (43.5cc)
head (mainly exhaust port work), stock valves, hi-flow K&N filters and a
custom Bosch distributor. She was going great guns before she snapped her
crank in half <G> - another story. Now the motor is on my bench with flat
tops, high lift 3/4 race cam and a few other goodies to up the tempo
further - oh and a nice, crack tested (!), NOS crank!!! <G>
With the 1.6 Rockers and a 2 thou increase in the Valve clearance the car
ran pretty bad and had me worried. I actually had to open up the gap 5 thou
to 20 thou to get her to run smoothly. After that, she idled beautifully and
revved much better than I expected. As for power increase, I think maybe 5hp
in my 1.6. Enough to notice a difference, but not enough to write home
about, the difference was in the 'feel' like she wasn't running out of
breath anymore above 5500. If you have to rebuild your valvetrain anyway,
I'd think about rr's, they certainly are a conversation piece, are reliable
and look great and do provide a reasonable increase in performance for the
$.
CAUTION: There are a number of issues to consider when fitting Roller
Rockers.
1. How is the increased ratio achieved? Generally, if offset pedestals are
not supplied, the rocker arm itself is shortened. This causes a number of
problems including the introduction of incorrect geometry pushrod-adjuster,
and also there may not be enough clearance in the head to allow for the
increased angle of the pushrod - due to the shortened rocker arm. In my MGA,
I had to get the pushrod holes drilled out to .660" (I think) and even then
it was a close thing with clearance. Also on an MG if you enlarge those
holes too much, you can come mightly close to the port walls. I only notice
this after installing the head and turning the motor over by hand - ouch -
back to the machine shop.
2. Valve-Block/Valve-Piston Clearance. When you increase the Rocker Ratio,
the Valves lift higher. Unfortunately I haven't played with any Healey's yet
as I only recently got my BN2, but in an MGA 1600, with a stock cam, and
Roller Rockers, there are no clearance problems that I know of with the
STOCK cyl head or early MGB head (maybe not true for 18V 39cc heads).
However, if you install a high lift cam with the RR's, you will get
interference and eyebrows need to be machined into the block for the exhaust
valves. I have fitted a high lift cam to my MGA, will have a lift of around
.470" so had to get the eyebrows machined in. All I'm saying re: your Healey
is be very careful to measure everything up, work out the clearances you
already have, and then work out how much you will have with the increased
rocker ratio before you even think about buying RR's or installing them.
Each motor is different you see as head's have been skimmed, blocks decked
etc etc etc over the years. What may work for RAS and they motor they test,
might not work on your car. Just a thought.
I don't know about the Dennis Welch RR set's but I wouldn't be surprised if
they include offset pedestals etc which eliminate a few of the problems
above. Thats prob. why there is a substantial price difference, a lot more
work goes into producing a 'proper' rr set. Yella Terra here in Australia
make an awesome set for MG's with individual shafts for each arm and a
needle bearing rockers but they are about $1200 here too - you get what you
pay for I guess. If you don't mind perhaps doing a bit more work yourself
with rr arms alone, a bit of machine work perhaps, and you can save a few
$$. The ideal situation tho is to correct the geometry issues, ie offset
pedestals - no getting around that.
Cheers,
Neil
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 16:41:02 -0700
Subject: Re: Bilstein Kit driving
Hi Rick-
Well, here is our report on the Bilstein Kit. I installed only the
front shocks before we went on a 2600 mile jaunt to Ocean Shores
Washington last month. I couldn't install the rear shocks in time
because my BJ7 needed a new fuel pump bracket like the BJ8 to relocate
and reorient the pump to clear the right hand rear shock. I didn't
have time to pick one up from Udo (they'll be in subsequent BJ7 kits)
and finish the bending of fuel lines to fit, etc. So I can report on
a longish trip with just the fronts. Result: pleasantly sure footed
and not noticeably more harsh than the lever shocks, just a bit more
confident in feel. Loreen and I were touring rather sedately for the
most part, never over 80 and a lot in the 50s and 60s in the north,
but hard corners over rough surfaces didn't wash out the front end or
leave you wondering where the car would decide to go on Highway 1.
Since returning I have installed the rear shocks, too, and have
thought that the _rear_ shocks gave a bit harder ride than stock :-)
Variables on my car: stock (I think) front springs for a BJ7, 175 x
15 Michelins on 5.5" Minilites @ 30 psi all around.
-Roland
On Wed, 16 Aug 2000 17:57:28 EDT, Rick wrote:
::
:: Well, I finally got the bolts I needed to install the front shocks to my car
:(the kit has the right stuff, my car did not-on one side) The PO had new nuts
:welded into the towers that were 7/16x 14TPI or something...16TPI...whatever.
:: So, about the ride. The shocks are excellent at doing what they're supposed
:to do-keeping the tires on the road. The result is a bit more firm than
:expected. The car now has a very positive "feel" on the road. very sure footed
:and stable up into the 100 MPH range. What I am noticing is that with the
:drive to create a very positive contact with the road, the Bilstein folks make
:no apparent compromise in relation to the ride, resulting in a rather rough
:ride better suited to "enthusiastic" driving.
:: I'm not complaining, as I drive very spirited in my Healey, but the ride at
:freeway speeds feels to me a bit "harsh". I mention this only so that drivers
:can understand this and make an educated decision about how they can change
:their own suspension.
[snip]
::
:: Variables to report on my car:
:: BN6 (two-seater), 3000 mkI-II front coil springs(3 years new), rear leafs (3
:years new), 7/8" Addco antiroll bar, 165/SR 15 tires on steel disc wheels
:(tire pressure may be too high). Alternative tires are 195/60's on Minilite 6"
:wide wheels (haven't yet driven them with the Bilsteins).
::
:: That's my story after about 200 miles on the four Bilsteins (since monday
:night!)
::
:: Questions/comments/others with Bilsteins?
:: Rick Wilkins
::
From Csooch1 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 20:47:59 EDT
Subject: Re: Toe out problem
In a message dated 8/16/00 1:58:50 AM Central Daylight Time,
healey-100@hawaii.rr.com writes:
<< Did you replace the side rods there are different length rods from early
to
late healeys I think? don't know when the change over was.
I' >>
Nope.
Cheers,
Chris
From "David" <david_m at radiantsoundworks.com>
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 21:48:57 -0700
Subject: Generator pulley & toe-out
I want to thank everyone for answering my plea for a generator pulley. I
have a few leads and hopefully I can get one soon.
As to the toe-out problem, I am still confused....perhaps more so. It seems
like this is a problem that others have had. Why?? After rebuilding a front
end, the location of the wheels should not have changed significantly.
Especially if the original wear was not that great...it was not in this
case. The only thing that I can think of...and someone suggested it, is that
maybe I switched the swivel ARMS. I tried to be extremely careful about
keeping everything on the correct side, but I could have I'm sure. If they
have a slant (up or down) to them, and they are switched, then the distance
from the ends of the arms to the steering linkages would be different. I
need to check that tomorrow. I have not yet tried to see if I can make up
for the toe-out by adjusting the rod ends. I'd rather not compensate for one
error by adding another.
Well that's my thoughts on the subject. I will let you all know how I make
out. Also...a number of you correctly pointed out that I had the thermostat
housing on backwards. Yup....I had actually caught that last night, and I
KNEW it would be noticed!! Very observant....you Healey people!!
Happy Healeying to all...
Dave
BJ8
TR4A
From "Ron Schonscheck" <schonny at y2consult.com>
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 12:53:05 -0600
Subject: Re: Firestone Tires
BTW she was spotted at several of the parties.
----- Original Message -----
From: "frogeye" <frogeye@gateway.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@email.msn.com>; <Csooch1@aol.com>;
<dickb@cheerful.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2000 8:17 AM
Subject: Re: Firestone Tires
>
> Hey Henry, did you see Clinton's speech? I think he was wearing one of
> Monica's ties......
>
> Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
> 59 AH :{) 54 BN1
>
> Click below for webpage and mopeds:
> http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@email.msn.com>
> To: <Csooch1@aol.com>; <dickb@cheerful.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2000 5:50 AM
> Subject: Re: Firestone Tires
>
>
> >
> > Hey I've got a good one, What does Bill tell Hillary after
> > sex?................I'll be home in fifteen minutes............Hanks
> > Martinizing
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <Csooch1@aol.com>
> > To: <dickb@cheerful.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Saturday, August 12, 2000 1:43 PM
> > Subject: Re: Firestone Tires
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Does anyone on the list have Firestone tires on their Healey?
> > >
> > > No - Then none of these emails pertain to this list...find the 8000 lb
> > brick
> > > with wheels list somewhere else.
> > >
> > > Yes - Unfortunate, but now you have a reason to put on some Avon or
> > Dunlop.
> > >
> > > Let us move on,
> > > Chris
> > >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
From "Wayne Irons" <wayne at royal.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 22:13:02 -0400
Subject: No lights..
Hi all...
Remember my saga of going to church with no lights? I know, it's been a
while. Thank you all for your leads with fuses. And, thanks Doug Reid, for
reminding me that the lights are not a fused circuit! (What WAS Lucas
thinking?)
Anyway, tonite I finally had a free hour to figure try to troubleshoot the
darkness. I finally found it. Any guesses? Yup, the headlamp switch. The
reasonable weather is about to return to us in NJ, and if it ever stops
raining I hope I'll be able to enjoy driving it again.
See y'all
Wayne
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 23:22:44 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: No lights..
Wayne
I'm glad you found your problem.
The lighting switch carries all of the current for the headlights and the
running lights, SO, I put a Relay in the circuit (as a matter of fact I
powered the Relay from my Ignition switch to reduce the On and Off wear and
tear on the slider light switch, which lets you run with your headlights and
taillights ON all the time, a la Daytime Lights).
If you send me your Fax address I'll be glad to send you a wiring diagram
DickB
---- you wrote:
>
> Hi all...
>
> Remember my saga of going to church with no lights? I know, it's been a
> while. Thank you all for your leads with fuses. And, thanks Doug Reid, for
> reminding me that the lights are not a fused circuit! (What WAS Lucas
> thinking?)
>
> Anyway, tonite I finally had a free hour to figure try to troubleshoot the
> darkness. I finally found it. Any guesses? Yup, the headlamp switch. The
> reasonable weather is about to return to us in NJ, and if it ever stops
> raining I hope I'll be able to enjoy driving it again.
>
> See y'all
>
> Wayne
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.QUINN at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2000 13:57:00 +1000
Subject: Re: SV: calipers for rear brakes
Hi Magnus
I am told that for cars fitted with bolt on wheels (replica Minilites) the
rear discs from an early Range Rover will fit. The stud pattern is exactly
the
same but the stud hole will have to be drilled from 3/8 inch to 7/16 inch.
For
wire wheel cars there is a Ford disc that will fit and are supplied in
Australia as blanks so that the stud holes have to be drilled.
The calipers used here are from the XJ6 and fit without too much of a
problem,
however you are still left with the separate handbrake mechanism and pads. I
understand that the rear calipers from a Nissan Skyline will fit and as the
handbrake operates on the main pads no separate mechanism is required.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
>>> Karlsson Magnus 16/08/00 4:57:53 >>>
The calipers are early Jaguar XJ6 and E-type. I assume that the discs are
specially made for Healeys. I have not been succesful in finding a disc from
another make that will fit. If someone else on the list knows of a disc that
will fit it would be very useful information.
Magnus Karlsson
SWEDEN
----- Original Message -----
From: John Rowe <jarowe@connect.comdek.net.au>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Cc: Karlsson Magnus <healey@telia.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2000 12:14 PM
Subject: Re: calipers for rear brakes
> Hi All
>
> Just continuing this brake thread to the next step.
>
> What type of caliper and disc can be used on the rear of a BT7 or I
presume
> any other 3000?
>
> Regards
> John Rowe
> Perth
> Western Australia
> BT7 in resto
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Karlsson Magnus <healey@telia.com>
> To: Healey Lista <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2000 4:02 PM
> Subject: SV: Brake calipers
>
>
> >
> > Mike and Bruce,
> >
> > It is no problem to fit a BJ8 disc to a BJ7 and earlier hub.
> >
> > In my previous posting regarding the caliper question I forgot to
mention
> that if you change to metric Girling calipers the disc also have to bee
> changed. It's straightforward, you get better brakes and the possibility
to
> fit competition pads that are readily available. The metric caliper is
very
> similar in appearance to the BJ8 caliper.
> >
> > Magnus Karlsson
> > SWEDEN
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Michael Salter <magicare@home.com>
> > To: Bruce Starke <bstarke@redshift.bc.ca>
> > Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Monday, August 14, 2000 10:00 PM
> > Subject: Re: Brake calipers
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Bruce Starke wrote:
> > >
> > > > Another question for the knowledgeable list::
> > > > I need to get new brake calipers---will the BJ8 calipers bolt
straight
> onto
> > > > an earlier car viz. my tricarb or do I have to get the correct ones?
> The
> > > > reason for this is that the BJ8 has bigger pads and better braking
(I
> think)
> > > > and they are cheaper as well!
> > > > Thanks
> > > > BRUCE STARKE
> > > > Tricarb
> > >
> > > Hi Bruce.
> > > The bolt spacing on the later caliper is greater by 1/4"
> > > The disc thickness on the BJ8 is greater by 1/8"
> > > The BJ8 hub is also different as is the stub axle which has intergral
> caliper
> > > mounts
> > > The ony way I know is to change everything form the King pin out.
> > > --
> > > Regards,
> > >
> > > Mike Salter
> > > http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> > > >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2000 08:39:23 -0400
Subject: Re: Generator pulley & toe-out
David wrote:
> I want to thank everyone for answering my plea for a generator pulley. I
> have a few leads and hopefully I can get one soon.
>
> As to the toe-out problem, I am still confused....perhaps more so. It seems
> like this is a problem that others have had. Why?? After rebuilding a front
> end, the location of the wheels should not have changed significantly.
> Especially if the original wear was not that great...it was not in this
> case. The only thing that I can think of...and someone suggested it, is that
> maybe I switched the swivel ARMS. I tried to be extremely careful about
> keeping everything on the correct side, but I could have I'm sure. If they
> have a slant (up or down) to them, and they are switched, then the distance
> from the ends of the arms to the steering linkages would be different. I
> need to check that tomorrow. I have not yet tried to see if I can make up
> for the toe-out by adjusting the rod ends. I'd rather not compensate for one
> error by adding another.
>
> Well that's my thoughts on the subject. I will let you all know how I make
> out. Also...a number of you correctly pointed out that I had the thermostat
> housing on backwards. Yup....I had actually caught that last night, and I
> KNEW it would be noticed!! Very observant....you Healey people!!
>
> Happy Healeying to all...
>
> Dave
>
> BJ8
> TR4A
Hi David,
I think it is very unlikely that yo have fitted the steering levers,( I think
that is what you are talkinh about when you call them swivel arms). The hole in
these is tapered to accept the pin on the side rod so you would have been
unable to get the nuts on the side rod ball end pins.
At the risk of causing you loss of sleep I would suggest that you would be wise
to check the distance between the front shock mounts. If this has decreased for
some reason the effect is what you describe. We have a bar that we use for
checking the dimention which can be done without disassembling anything. I can't
find the bar at the moment but from memory it it 22 3/4" long. I know we have
had cars with the dimention as little as 22". These cars invarably have had some
metal removed from the centre link to compensate which really screws things up.
Good luck
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From "Richard E. Pratt" <prattri at email.msn.com>
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2000 08:49:56 -0400
Subject: RE: Toe out problem
Cris,
Is it possible the Swivel pin and/or the upper trunnion are assembled
backwards(180 out). This could cause the distance between wheels to be
narrower then design and cause the toe in adjustment to be inadequate.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Csooch1@aol.com
> Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2000 8:48 PM
> To: healey-100@hawaii.rr.com
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Toe out problem
>
>
>
> In a message dated 8/16/00 1:58:50 AM Central Daylight Time,
> healey-100@hawaii.rr.com writes:
>
> << Did you replace the side rods there are different length rods
> from early
> to
> late healeys I think? don't know when the change over was.
> I' >>
> Nope.
> Cheers,
> Chris
>
From "Scheuble, Fred J. ,HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2000 09:04:08 -0400
Subject: RE: Re;Re; Steering boxes
my favorite, the KISS method!
-----Original Message-----
From: JustBrits@aol.com [mailto:JustBrits@aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2000 9:22 PM
To: hutching@myna.com
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Re;Re; Steering boxes
In a message dated 08/15/2000 7:47:17 PM Central Daylight Time,
hutching@myna.com writes:
<< This is in answer to Ed's question "why are you messing with it?">>
Huuum, Stephan, I replied PRIVATELY inorder NOT to embarass to you. Geesh.
<< Even if I'm going to have someone else do the work ( I'm well aware of my
own limitations, and will admit when I don't know what I'm doing), I like
to understand exactly what is going on, and why.>>
NOT a thing wrong with that although you should acknowledge Mr. Eastwood.
<< I'm trying to eliminate what I think is excessive play.
Stephen >>
There IS a MAJOR principle (or Rule) to these cars.
It is known as the KISS Principle (Keep It Simple Stupid).
Let's see.
You HAVE ruled out tie rod ends??
You HAVE ruled out the side rods??
You HAVE ruled out the Idler assembly??
You HAVE ruled out the lever for idler gear??
You HAVE ruled out the cross rod assembly ball joints??
You HAVE ruled out all loose nuts and bolts??
You HAVE ruled out Idler or Steering box not being properly bolted down??
You HAVE ruled out bad bearings??
You HAVE assertained that the "spacers" are in place in both front hub??
You HAVE assertained that splines are true??
You HAVE been through the rear end assembly and mounting compents to make
sure something is not "amiss"??
All the above is done - check the steering box for lubricant. Ditto Idler.
Cheers...............
Ed
'63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey)
Founding Member & Delegate, ILLINI Chapter - AHCA (20+ years)
Member, AHCUSA
Ed Kaler, Proprietor
" Just Brits "
Hinsdale, IL
From "Scheuble, Fred J. ,HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2000 09:25:37 -0400
Subject: RE: Trunk (boot) seal
Metro Rubber Parts has some Healey rubber, if you want I could look up their
number, most rubber I've bought from them was correct and good quality.
-----Original Message-----
From: Lane, Jonathan [mailto:lanej@mossmotors.com]
Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2000 10:44 AM
To: 'RL Chrysler'; Awgertoo@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: Trunk (boot) seal
I would be interested to know some more info on the seal you received.
Cross section dimensions, firmness of the seal, etc. Did you have an old
seal? If so how did it compare?
Let me know, I'll check it out.
-----Original Message-----
From: RL Chrysler [mailto:lchrysl@fhs.csu.McMaster.CA]
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2000 4:49 PM
To: Awgertoo@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Trunk (boot) seal
Michael Oritt wrote:
> My boot lid had no rubber gasket and occasionally leaked a bit, so I
ordered
> a "trunk seal" from Moss. The parts catalogue says: "Glues into channel
on
> trunk lid", but no matter how I try to fit it (at this point dry, not
glued)
> I seem to be creating a signifigant bulge in the lid. Without the seal
the
> fit between shroud and lid is quite good, as both are on same plane. With
> even a short piece of gasket in place in the lid groove the lid seems to
be
> forced up about 1/4". I cannot imagine that the lid would close well, if
at
> all, were the gasket in place all the way around. Has anyone got any
> suggestions or experience that they can share?
>
> Thanks--Michael Oritt, BN1
I would first hazard to say that perhaps the rubber cross section you
purchased may not be correct. I've seen some that are on the market that are
absolutely ridiculous, and from quite reputable firms. What you need is a
fairly soft section that has a very shallow dished total height section. The
outboard edge should be relatively squared off, and fit into and up against
the vertical flange, while the inboard edge flares inboard somewhat. This
rubber glues completely around the inside perimeter of the lid, with the end
joint at the top middle, that is to say nearest the cockpit rail, and in the
centre.
Hope this helps.
Rich Chrysler
From "Scheuble, Fred J. ,HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2000 09:42:40 -0400
Subject: RE: Firestone Tires
can this be true?
-----Original Message-----
From: Ron Schonscheck [mailto:schonny@y2consult.com]
Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2000 2:53 PM
To: frogeye; dos_gusanos; Csooch1@aol.com; dickb@cheerful.com;
healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Firestone Tires
BTW she was spotted at several of the parties.
----- Original Message -----
From: "frogeye" <frogeye@gateway.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@email.msn.com>; <Csooch1@aol.com>;
<dickb@cheerful.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2000 8:17 AM
Subject: Re: Firestone Tires
>
> Hey Henry, did you see Clinton's speech? I think he was wearing one of
> Monica's ties......
>
> Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
> 59 AH :{) 54 BN1
>
> Click below for webpage and mopeds:
> http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@email.msn.com>
> To: <Csooch1@aol.com>; <dickb@cheerful.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2000 5:50 AM
> Subject: Re: Firestone Tires
>
>
> >
> > Hey I've got a good one, What does Bill tell Hillary after
> > sex?................I'll be home in fifteen minutes............Hanks
> > Martinizing
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <Csooch1@aol.com>
> > To: <dickb@cheerful.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Saturday, August 12, 2000 1:43 PM
> > Subject: Re: Firestone Tires
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Does anyone on the list have Firestone tires on their Healey?
> > >
> > > No - Then none of these emails pertain to this list...find the 8000 lb
> > brick
> > > with wheels list somewhere else.
> > >
> > > Yes - Unfortunate, but now you have a reason to put on some Avon or
> > Dunlop.
> > >
> > > Let us move on,
> > > Chris
> > >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
From "Scheuble, Fred J. ,HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2000 09:43:28 -0400
Subject: RE: No lights..
ah this KISS method agin!
-----Original Message-----
From: Wayne Irons [mailto:wayne@royal.net]
Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2000 10:13 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: No lights..
Hi all...
Remember my saga of going to church with no lights? I know, it's been a
while. Thank you all for your leads with fuses. And, thanks Doug Reid, for
reminding me that the lights are not a fused circuit! (What WAS Lucas
thinking?)
Anyway, tonite I finally had a free hour to figure try to troubleshoot the
darkness. I finally found it. Any guesses? Yup, the headlamp switch. The
reasonable weather is about to return to us in NJ, and if it ever stops
raining I hope I'll be able to enjoy driving it again.
See y'all
Wayne
From "Pagel, John" <John.Pagel at imotors.com>
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2000 07:21:01 -0700
Subject: RE: SV: calipers for rear brakes
I've got a set of Dennis Welch rotors and caliper mounts on my car.
Work great, all you need is a couple Jag rear calipers, You just modify the
Healey e-brake linkage to work (instructions included) Check 'em out....
-----Original Message-----
From: Quinn, Patrick [mailto:Patrick.QUINN@det.nsw.edu.au]
Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2000 8:57 PM
To: healey@telia.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: SV: calipers for rear brakes
Hi Magnus
I am told that for cars fitted with bolt on wheels (replica Minilites) the
rear discs from an early Range Rover will fit. The stud pattern is exactly
the
same but the stud hole will have to be drilled from 3/8 inch to 7/16 inch.
For
wire wheel cars there is a Ford disc that will fit and are supplied in
Australia as blanks so that the stud holes have to be drilled.
The calipers used here are from the XJ6 and fit without too much of a
problem,
however you are still left with the separate handbrake mechanism and pads. I
understand that the rear calipers from a Nissan Skyline will fit and as the
handbrake operates on the main pads no separate mechanism is required.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
>>> Karlsson Magnus 16/08/00 4:57:53 >>>
The calipers are early Jaguar XJ6 and E-type. I assume that the discs are
specially made for Healeys. I have not been succesful in finding a disc from
another make that will fit. If someone else on the list knows of a disc that
will fit it would be very useful information.
Magnus Karlsson
SWEDEN
----- Original Message -----
From: John Rowe <jarowe@connect.comdek.net.au>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Cc: Karlsson Magnus <healey@telia.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2000 12:14 PM
Subject: Re: calipers for rear brakes
> Hi All
>
> Just continuing this brake thread to the next step.
>
> What type of caliper and disc can be used on the rear of a BT7 or I
presume
> any other 3000?
>
> Regards
> John Rowe
> Perth
> Western Australia
> BT7 in resto
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Karlsson Magnus <healey@telia.com>
> To: Healey Lista <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2000 4:02 PM
> Subject: SV: Brake calipers
>
>
> >
> > Mike and Bruce,
> >
> > It is no problem to fit a BJ8 disc to a BJ7 and earlier hub.
> >
> > In my previous posting regarding the caliper question I forgot to
mention
> that if you change to metric Girling calipers the disc also have to bee
> changed. It's straightforward, you get better brakes and the possibility
to
> fit competition pads that are readily available. The metric caliper is
very
> similar in appearance to the BJ8 caliper.
> >
> > Magnus Karlsson
> > SWEDEN
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Michael Salter <magicare@home.com>
> > To: Bruce Starke <bstarke@redshift.bc.ca>
> > Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Monday, August 14, 2000 10:00 PM
> > Subject: Re: Brake calipers
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Bruce Starke wrote:
> > >
> > > > Another question for the knowledgeable list::
> > > > I need to get new brake calipers---will the BJ8 calipers bolt
straight
> onto
> > > > an earlier car viz. my tricarb or do I have to get the correct ones?
> The
> > > > reason for this is that the BJ8 has bigger pads and better braking
(I
> think)
> > > > and they are cheaper as well!
> > > > Thanks
> > > > BRUCE STARKE
> > > > Tricarb
> > >
> > > Hi Bruce.
> > > The bolt spacing on the later caliper is greater by 1/4"
> > > The disc thickness on the BJ8 is greater by 1/8"
> > > The BJ8 hub is also different as is the stub axle which has intergral
> caliper
> > > mounts
> > > The ony way I know is to change everything form the King pin out.
> > > --
> > > Regards,
> > >
> > > Mike Salter
> > > http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> > > >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2000 09:46:06 -0500
Subject: Re: Bilstein Kit driving
>
>Questions/comments/others with Bilsteins?
>Rick Wilkins
>
Rick:
I have a Koni kit, from and rear, from the '60s. They are adjustable and
work best with a light setting. On the firm setting, the car does not seem
to have enough weight for the shocks. The set up bounces. Of course, my
car is very light (about 300# less than OEM) but the same principal should
apply to your Bilsteins.
Best regards
Jim Hockert
'66 BJ8 Rallye
From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2000 09:54:49 -0500
Subject: Re: spring height
Check the archives. There was a thread on this subject about a year ago.
My recollection of the results from that thread is that the available new
springs have been consolidated into one size. If the wire size on your
springs is the same and the number of coils are the same, you may have to
shim to get them to the same installed height on the car or do some
exchanging with Moss.
Best regards
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2000 14:54:49 -0500
Subject: Re: spring height
Check the archives. There was a thread on this subject about a year ago.
My recollection of the results from that thread is that the available new
springs have been consolidated into one size. If the wire size on your
springs is the same and the number of coils are the same, you may have to
shim to get them to the same installed height on the car or do some
exchanging with Moss.
Best regards
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
From "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej at mossmotors.com>
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2000 08:34:44 -0700
Subject: RE: Trunk (boot) seal
For those interested in this subject I did check our stock and found that it
appears to be correct. Though we did have one seal that was different,
probably a secondary source, the rest of our stock did match the description
given by Roger and is apparently the same item in question. I'm not sure
why Michael is having trouble with it. Anybody have any ideas? Is there a
wrong way to put it on? I need one for my BN7 so I would be curious to find
out.
-----Original Message-----
From: Scheuble, Fred J. ,HiServ/NA [mailto:fjscheuble@hiserv-na.com]
Sent: Thursday, August 17, 2000 6:26 AM
To: 'Lane, Jonathan'; 'RL Chrysler'; Awgertoo@aol.com;
healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: Trunk (boot) seal
Metro Rubber Parts has some Healey rubber, if you want I could look up their
number, most rubber I've bought from them was correct and good quality.
-----Original Message-----
From: Lane, Jonathan [mailto:lanej@mossmotors.com]
Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2000 10:44 AM
To: 'RL Chrysler'; Awgertoo@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: Trunk (boot) seal
I would be interested to know some more info on the seal you received.
Cross section dimensions, firmness of the seal, etc. Did you have an old
seal? If so how did it compare?
Let me know, I'll check it out.
-----Original Message-----
From: RL Chrysler [mailto:lchrysl@fhs.csu.McMaster.CA]
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2000 4:49 PM
To: Awgertoo@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Trunk (boot) seal
Michael Oritt wrote:
> My boot lid had no rubber gasket and occasionally leaked a bit, so I
ordered
> a "trunk seal" from Moss. The parts catalogue says: "Glues into channel
on
> trunk lid", but no matter how I try to fit it (at this point dry, not
glued)
> I seem to be creating a signifigant bulge in the lid. Without the seal
the
> fit between shroud and lid is quite good, as both are on same plane. With
> even a short piece of gasket in place in the lid groove the lid seems to
be
> forced up about 1/4". I cannot imagine that the lid would close well, if
at
> all, were the gasket in place all the way around. Has anyone got any
> suggestions or experience that they can share?
>
> Thanks--Michael Oritt, BN1
I would first hazard to say that perhaps the rubber cross section you
purchased may not be correct. I've seen some that are on the market that are
absolutely ridiculous, and from quite reputable firms. What you need is a
fairly soft section that has a very shallow dished total height section. The
outboard edge should be relatively squared off, and fit into and up against
the vertical flange, while the inboard edge flares inboard somewhat. This
rubber glues completely around the inside perimeter of the lid, with the end
joint at the top middle, that is to say nearest the cockpit rail, and in the
centre.
Hope this helps.
Rich Chrysler
From BillHUCK at aol.com
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2000 14:09:00 EDT
Subject: WIPAC Headlamps
Does anyone know who handles WIPAC (of England) headlamps?
I need the E.11, 20R/14, Series 286 model. Thanks Bill Huck
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2000 14:11:59 EDT
Subject: Re: Trunk (boot) seal
In a message dated 8/17/00 11:37:54 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
lanej@mossmotors.com writes:
<< I'm not sure why Michael is having trouble with it. Anybody have any
ideas? Is there a wrong way to put it on? >>
There are only two ways to put it on and the problem is the same either way:
With no seal the lid fits very nicely--with the seal the lid is forced up by
at least 1/8". As we discussed, the seal that you furnished is a strong 1/4"
high in the section where the lip of the surround would make contact, and I
do not feel it is very pliable, as it is forcing the lid up, even next to the
hinges, which you would think, would exert sufficient force to compress the
seal. So far as I can tell there is no irregularity to the lip and I cannot
imagine that anyone went to the trouble to carefully weld on additional
aluminum so as to build the edge up!
I cannot use the seal that you sent without causing seriious distortion to
the boot lid. I have heard several recommendations of other sources for a
"correct" product. Where do we go from here?
I am copying the list not to embarass you or your firm but rather because you
wanted to put this out for more input, and a complete description of the
problem might be helpful in getting a solution or further suggestions.
Thank you--Michael Oritt
From "Scheuble, Fred J. ,HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2000 15:05:16 -0400
Subject: RE: Check out eBayMotors item 409783456 (Ends Aug-21-00 14:07:45
the hood looks like it would be from 6 cylinder model but for all the video,
pictures I've seen of works cars I have not see one like this.
-----Original Message-----
From: RAWDAWGS@aol.com [mailto:RAWDAWGS@aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2000 2:57 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Check out eBayMotors item 409783456 (Ends Aug-21-00 14:07:45
PDT) - 1957-60 A
. Ever seen a hood scoop like this? The crease would suggest an early BN4.
Might be a rare factory rally piece!<A
HREF="http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4097
83
456&r=0&t=0">Click here: eBayMotors item 409783456 (Ends Aug-21-00 14:07:45
PDT) - 1957-60 Austin Healey 100/6, 3000 Hood</A>
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2000 12:32:06 -0700
Subject: Re: Trunk (boot) seal
I had no problem with my Moss-supplied trunk seal. The only things I
can imagine are that Michael got one of those tough seals that were
hiding in the back of the bin, or else his trunk hinges aren't bolted
down securely..
-Roland
BJ7
On Thu, 17 Aug 2000 14:11:59 EDT, you wrote:
::
:: In a message dated 8/17/00 11:37:54 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
:: lanej@mossmotors.com writes:
::
:: << I'm not sure why Michael is having trouble with it. Anybody have any
:: ideas? Is there a wrong way to put it on? >>
::
:: There are only two ways to put it on and the problem is the same either way:
:
:: With no seal the lid fits very nicely--with the seal the lid is forced up
:by
:: at least 1/8". As we discussed, the seal that you furnished is a strong
:1/4"
:: high in the section where the lip of the surround would make contact, and I
:: do not feel it is very pliable, as it is forcing the lid up, even next to
:the
:: hinges, which you would think, would exert sufficient force to compress the
:: seal. So far as I can tell there is no irregularity to the lip and I cannot
:: imagine that anyone went to the trouble to carefully weld on additional
:: aluminum so as to build the edge up!
::
:: I cannot use the seal that you sent without causing seriious distortion to
:: the boot lid. I have heard several recommendations of other sources for a
:: "correct" product. Where do we go from here?
::
:: I am copying the list not to embarass you or your firm but rather because
:you
:: wanted to put this out for more input, and a complete description of the
:: problem might be helpful in getting a solution or further suggestions.
::
:: Thank you--Michael Oritt
From M Brouillette <mbrouill at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2000 16:49:53 -0400
Subject: Carb question
Folks,
Does anyone have an old catalog that can tell me what these carbs are
out
of? The small metal tag on 1 carb says AUC 928. The other one has the tag
AUD 136R.
Thanks in advance,
Mike B
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2000 16:49:35 EDT
Subject: Re: Trunk (boot) seal
In a message dated 8/17/00 3:28:59 PM Eastern Daylight Time, rwil@cts.com
writes:
<< or else his trunk hinges aren't bolted
down securely.. >>
I'll have you know that I have some of the tightest hinges in town!
Michael
From "Eyvind Larssen" <seel at online.no>
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2000 23:36:24 +0200
Subject: SV: Carb question
Mike,
according to my ref. list the AUD136R is for a Sprite mkIII 1964-66 and mk IV
1967-68
AUC928 is NON Healey-stuff. according to my list its for a Morris Oxford series
V 4-cyl. 1959-60
Eyvind Larssen 60BT7
> Folks,
>
> Does anyone have an old catalog that can tell me what these carbs are out
> of? The small metal tag on 1 carb says AUC 928. The other one has the tag
> AUD 136R.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Mike B
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2000 15:40:11 -0600
Subject: Re: Carb question
Mike,
Both are HS2 carbs. The AUC928 was fitted to an Austin A55 MK II, the AUD
136 was fitted to Sprite MK II,III,IV
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
59 AH :{) 54 BN1
Click below for webpage and mopeds:
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
----- Original Message -----
From: "M Brouillette" <mbrouill@ix.netcom.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 17, 2000 2:49 PM
Subject: Carb question
>
> Folks,
>
> Does anyone have an old catalog that can tell me what these carbs are out
> of? The small metal tag on 1 carb says AUC 928. The other one has the
tag
> AUD 136R.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Mike B
>
>
From Anders Roil <roil at sensewave.com>
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2000 23:48:38 +0200
Subject: SV: Weber filters
Hi Rob
I have bought itg-filters to my Trippel Weber 100-6 with 3000 engine from Denis
Welch in England.
Good luck.
Anders
home.sol.no/~anroil
----------
Fra: rscaglione@safjp.gov.ar[SMTP:rscaglione@safjp.gov.ar]
Sendt: 15. august 2000 15:43
Til: Healeys@autox.team.net
Emne: Weber filters
Hi gang
I had problems with my e mail address, so I am repeting my question.
Please if any of you knows a reliable Weber Carbs dealer to buy a pair of
filters for my dual pair of Webers 40 DCOE sidedrafts carbs. I would
appreciate that information.
Thanks again
Rob
From Healeyguy at aol.com
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2000 18:50:18 EDT
Subject: Re: Trunk (boot) seal
Mike
If I remember correctly you have a 100. The trunk seal that I used on my 100
(Moss) was also to stiff to compress properly. It shows most on the top of the
boot as you mentioned between the hinges. The material is slightly gray, not
black (subjective I guess). I have not had a problem with the six cylinder
seals. My hinges are also firmly tightened down. You can shave the seal or find
another seal. I liked the fit and x-section. It was the squeezability(there is
a good word, sounds like an old toilet paper commercial) (durometer reading)
that isn't right.
Aloha
Perry
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2000 19:24:47 EDT
Subject: Re: RE: Check out eBayMotors item 409783456 (Ends Aug-21-00 14:07:45
PDT) - 1957-60 A
Though it looks to be a decent scoop for a Healey, the early factory scoops
were quite different as seen at: members.aol.com/wilko under the section
"Period modifications" click the link for the early works cars "i want to see
this jpeg!" upper left shows a 100-Six with vents at the rear of the bonnet.
Rick-starting to really appreciate the sure-footedness of the
Bilsteins-Wilkins
San Diego
In a message dated 8/17/00 12:02:57, fjscheuble@hiserv-na.com writes:
<<
the hood looks like it would be from 6 cylinder model but for all the video,
pictures I've seen of works cars I have not see one like this.
-----Original Message-----
From: RAWDAWGS@aol.com [mailto:RAWDAWGS@aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2000 2:57 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Check out eBayMotors item 409783456 (Ends Aug-21-00 14:07:45
PDT) - 1957-60 A >>
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2000 19:49:58 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: No lights..
Tom
I'll be glad to.
Send me your Fax # or your address. I can't/don't know how to send it by email
(I don't have a scanner)
DickB
---- you wrote:
> At 11:22 PM 8/16/00 -0400, you wrote:
> could you send it to me too
>
> >Wayne
> >
> >I'm glad you found your problem.
> >
> >The lighting switch carries all of the current for the headlights and the
> >running lights, SO, I put a Relay in the circuit (as a matter of fact I
> >powered the Relay from my Ignition switch to reduce the On and Off wear
> >and tear on the slider light switch,
> >
> >If you send me your Fax address I'll be glad to send you a wiring diagram
> >
> >DickB
> >
> > ---- you wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi all...
> > >
> > > Remember my saga of going to church with no lights? I know, it's been a
> > > while. Thank you all for your leads with fuses. And, thanks Doug
> > Reid, for
> > > reminding me that the lights are not a fused circuit! (What WAS Lucas
> > > thinking?)
> > >
> > > Anyway, tonite I finally had a free hour to figure try to troubleshoot the
> > > darkness. I finally found it. Any guesses? Yup, the headlamp
> > switch. The
> > > reasonable weather is about to return to us in NJ, and if it ever stops
> > > raining I hope I'll be able to enjoy driving it again.
> > >
> > > See y'all
> > >
> > > Wayne
> > >
> >
> >
> >----------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Thanks
> Tom Blaskovics (U2347@WVNVM.WVNET.EDU)
> ACHA, ACHUSA
> BJ7 Registry
> HBJ7L/22380
> Back on the Road in July
> MB 750 SL
> Morgantown, WV
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From "Patrick QUINN" <QUINNP at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 11:25:32 +1000
Subject: Edward Eves
Greetings
Now this is fairly esoteric Healey History so delete if your socks are falling
off due to boredom.
I have just read in British Motor Sport of the death of Edward Pailthorp Eves
earlier on this year at the age of 82. Eves was an engineer and an accomplished
English motoring writer and being a country gentleman enjoyed appropriate
sports such as motoring and flying his own light aircraft.
During the 1930s while working for what was to become the Rootes Group he
developed an interest in photography and even invented his own camera called
the Eves One-Shot colour camera. This led to him starting a photographic
section within Rootes and eventually his own business.
The business was in Warwick and it wasn't long before he became friends with
Donald Healey through their mutual photographic interest. All this eventuated
in him becoming the official press photographer for the Donald Healey Motor
Company.
All the original photos of the early Healeys and the Healey 100 were taken by
Eves of which I have a few.
Eves went on to become the Chairman of the Guild of Motoring Writers and his
racing photos are some of the best of the period.
Publications to his credit include works on Rolls-Royce and the Schneider
Trophy.
See I told you it was pretty esoteric stuff, but I couldn't let his death pass
without a mention.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
From JXLmail at aol.com
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2000 23:38:43 EDT
Subject: Re: Monterey Historics at Laguna Seca on Friday
All,
I can't make it on Friday. I will be out at the track Sat and Sunday.
Jim Latoff
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 00:04:11 -0400
Subject: BJ8 coil springs
Thanks for the info, found what I needed in the archives.
Have one 10 1/8 and one @ 10 1/2 hope the next one that comes is correct at
10 1/8
Carroll
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2000 14:34:57 -0700
Subject: Re: Trunk (boot) seal
Michael,
I've got the same problem on my BJ7. The PO had installed a seal that
sounds like the one you have described. The seal is about 1/4" in the
center where it contacts the lip and the boot stands at least 1/8" too
high. The seal profile looks to be symetrical (there is no thin side or
thick side) and the material durometer is fairly stiff.
I noticed that British Car Specialist Y2K catalog, page 32 has a truck
lid seal with the caption, "ours has the correct hollow". The profile in
the illustration appears to have a thin side and thick side and larger
hollow area.
Hope this helps.
John
From Bill Pollock <wjpollock at erols.com>
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 08:31:31 -0400
Subject: Re: Trunk (boot) seal
I to have a Moss seal and have hesiated to put it on the car. I have placed the
seal in the groove around the boot area and when doing this cannot close the lid
without putting all my 200+lbs on the bottom and than forcing the handle to the
closed postition using alot of pressure on the handle.
Bill Pollock
BN6
Roland Wilhelmy wrote:
> I had no problem with my Moss-supplied trunk seal. The only things I
> can imagine are that Michael got one of those tough seals that were
> hiding in the back of the bin, or else his trunk hinges aren't bolted
> down securely..
>
> -Roland
> BJ7
> On Thu, 17 Aug 2000 14:11:59 EDT, you wrote:
>
> ::
> :: In a message dated 8/17/00 11:37:54 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> :: lanej@mossmotors.com writes:
> ::
> :: << I'm not sure why Michael is having trouble with it. Anybody have any
> :: ideas? Is there a wrong way to put it on? >>
> ::
> :: There are only two ways to put it on and the problem is the same either
>way:
> :: With no seal the lid fits very nicely--with the seal the lid is forced up
>by
> :: at least 1/8". As we discussed, the seal that you furnished is a strong
>1/4"
> :: high in the section where the lip of the surround would make contact, and I
> :: do not feel it is very pliable, as it is forcing the lid up, even next to
>the
> :: hinges, which you would think, would exert sufficient force to compress the
> :: seal. So far as I can tell there is no irregularity to the lip and I
>cannot
> :: imagine that anyone went to the trouble to carefully weld on additional
> :: aluminum so as to build the edge up!
> ::
> :: I cannot use the seal that you sent without causing seriious distortion to
> :: the boot lid. I have heard several recommendations of other sources for a
> :: "correct" product. Where do we go from here?
> ::
> :: I am copying the list not to embarass you or your firm but rather because
>you
> :: wanted to put this out for more input, and a complete description of the
> :: problem might be helpful in getting a solution or further suggestions.
> ::
> :: Thank you--Michael Oritt
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 08:39:22 EDT
Subject: Re: Trunk (boot) seal
In a message dated 08/17/2000 10:13:21 AM Mountain Daylight Time,
lanej@mossmotors.com writes:
<<
For those interested in this subject I did check our stock and found that it
appears to be correct. Though we did have one seal that was different,
probably a secondary source, the rest of our stock did match the description
given by Roger and is apparently the same item in question. I'm not sure
why Michael is having trouble with it. Anybody have any ideas? Is there a
wrong way to put it on? I need one for my BN7 so I would be curious to find
out. >>
If the seal is correct, you will notice that it is NOT symmetric in
crossection. One side of the "W" is less angled and thinner. That side goes
towards the center of the boot lid. The straighter side goes against the
boot lid lip.
I've found that it is best to only put adhesive on the wide, bottom face.
THis makes a mlulch neater installation and will adequately hold if cleaned
and glued correctly. Also, push the material into the corners -- don't
stretch it around them. THe glue can't hold against the rubber's force if
it's stretched, but by "bunching" it up int he turns it will lay nice and
proper.
100 joints at the two sides. All 6-cylinder joints at the boot lid latch.
Roger
From "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos at email.msn.com>
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 06:45:04 -0600
Subject: Steering gear wanted RHD
Does anyone have a right hand steering gear they wish to part with for a
3000?..................Cheers Henry Morrison
From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 08:47:56 +0100
Subject: Re: Carb question
I
>Folks,
>
> Does anyone have an old catalog that can tell me what these carbs are
>out
>of? The small metal tag on 1 carb says AUC 928. The other one has the tag
>AUD 136R.
>
There is an HS2 carb AUD 928 (not AUC) that fits
A55 Cambridge Mark II & Countryman
Oxford Series V
Wolseley 15/60
etc.
Could this be a typo?
AUD 136 is from a
Sprite Mark III (1098 cc)
--
John Harper
From "Scheuble, Fred J. ,HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 09:03:49 -0400
Subject: FW: 1960 AUSTIN HEALEY 3000
All,
those looking for rubber please see below.
-----Original Message-----
From: Scott Woelm [mailto:scottw@metrommp.com]
Sent: Friday, August 18, 2000 3:50 PM
To: fjscheuble@hiserv-na.com
Subject: 1960 AUSTIN HEALEY 3000
Hello,
You can find a list of parts you are looking for by accessing our
web site:
http://www.metrommp.com/
Go to "parts search", and search for the vehicles you are
looking for. A list of parts will then appear.
We are focusing mainly on GM vehicles, from the mid 60's
into the early 90's.
You may want to try Steele Rubber Parts. Their number is
800 544 8665.
Good luck.
Metro Sales
From deemi at juno.com
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 09:52:12 -0400
Subject: Carb ID
Hi,
while we are at it, can someone please ID a carb setup that came with the
100-6 that I have, it is for a four cylinder car, and SU and has AUD 94P
on it.
Thanks, I dont think its Healey so will find it a home.
Bob Bowie in Maine
Healey 100, 3000 MkI
________________________________________________________________
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
From Ward Stebner <liason at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 07:36:00 -0600
Subject: Engine paint
I am just wondering if someone can provide me with some information on
the Healey Green engine paint sold by Moss (Jonathan maybe?). If I
paint some components separately, and then assemble them to the engine,
and would like to paint the engine as a whole, do I need to scuff the
finish on the paint prior to repainting if more than a few hours has
elapsed? I am painting some of the pieces separately (ie. manifolds,
starter, generator, valve cover) so that I get good coverage on them.
Should I be painting the block by itself, without the components then
just hand paint the fasteners later?
Thanks.
Ward Stebner
Saskatoon, SK
1956 BN2
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 09:24:42 -0600
Subject: Re: Carb ID
Bob,
Probably an AUD 99 and was fitted to Mini Cooper S
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
59 AH :{) 54 BN1
Click below for webpage and mopeds:
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
----- Original Message -----
From: <deemi@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 18, 2000 7:52 AM
Subject: Carb ID
>
> Hi,
>
> while we are at it, can someone please ID a carb setup that came with the
> 100-6 that I have, it is for a four cylinder car, and SU and has AUD 94P
> on it.
>
> Thanks, I dont think its Healey so will find it a home.
>
> Bob Bowie in Maine
> Healey 100, 3000 MkI
>
> ________________________________________________________________
> http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
>
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 11:58:21 -0400
Subject: Re: 1960 AUSTIN HEALEY 3000
I tried looking for 1962 AUSTINHEALEY and found nothing.
Lee
'62 BT7 Tri-carb
>All,
> those looking for rubber please see below.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Scott Woelm [mailto:scottw@metrommp.com]
>Sent: Friday, August 18, 2000 3:50 PM
>To: fjscheuble@hiserv-na.com
>Subject: 1960 AUSTIN HEALEY 3000
>
>
>Hello,
>
>You can find a list of parts you are looking for by accessing our
>web site:
>
>http://www.metrommp.com/
>
>Go to "parts search", and search for the vehicles you are
>looking for. A list of parts will then appear.
>
>We are focusing mainly on GM vehicles, from the mid 60's
>into the early 90's.
>
>You may want to try Steele Rubber Parts. Their number is
>800 544 8665.
>
>Good luck.
>
>Metro Sales
From "Scheuble, Fred J. ,HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 12:02:34 -0400
Subject: HEALEY FOR SALE
FYI,
I just saw a 1965 healey for sale. light blue, looks good from 20
feet away, I did not inquire about the car, so I cannot comment on
condition. It's located at
Oldwick Village Garage in NJ
30 Old Turnpike
P.O. Box 279
Oldwick, New Jersey 08858
If anyone is interested I can check it out
Thanks,
Fred
From "Scheuble, Fred J. ,HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 12:24:41 -0400
Subject: RE: 1960 AUSTIN HEALEY 3000
Lee, did you try Steele Rubber Parts, also I would call Metro, their web
site doesn't list everything
-----Original Message-----
From: Lee S. Mairs [mailto:lmairs@ix.netcom.com]
Sent: Friday, August 18, 2000 11:58 AM
To: Healey
Subject: Re: 1960 AUSTIN HEALEY 3000
I tried looking for 1962 AUSTINHEALEY and found nothing.
Lee
'62 BT7 Tri-carb
>All,
> those looking for rubber please see below.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Scott Woelm [mailto:scottw@metrommp.com]
>Sent: Friday, August 18, 2000 3:50 PM
>To: fjscheuble@hiserv-na.com
>Subject: 1960 AUSTIN HEALEY 3000
>
>
>Hello,
>
>You can find a list of parts you are looking for by accessing our
>web site:
>
>http://www.metrommp.com/
>
>Go to "parts search", and search for the vehicles you are
>looking for. A list of parts will then appear.
>
>We are focusing mainly on GM vehicles, from the mid 60's
>into the early 90's.
>
>You may want to try Steele Rubber Parts. Their number is
>800 544 8665.
>
>Good luck.
>
>Metro Sales
From Healeyguy at aol.com
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 12:20:24 EDT
Subject: Re: Engine paint
Ward
The best engine paint, "Austin Healey Green" that I have used over the years
is from Bill Hirsch 800-828-2061. The color is a match to original parts,
applies easily, but doesn't come in a spray can. Sorry Moss but your color
mix is too blue. Ever walk down a row of Healeys with the bonnets open at a
show and see the variance in the paint? Their will be a few there that have
it right. Usually Hirsch paint or custom mix.
Aloha
Perry
From "Eyvind Larssen" <seel at online.no>
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 18:43:06 +0200
Subject: SV: Carb ID
Bob,
according to my ref. list its not a Healey carb. Yours should be AUC 815 for
BN4 1956-59 2 pcs. H4 or
AUC 866 for BN6 1957-59 2 pcs. HD6.
Cant find the number AUD 94P in my list... closest no. I got is AUD 94R (Check
nos. again)
btw. this is for a Volvo P1800 1963 2 pcs. HS6, also for B18D P544 & P1225
1956-66.
Eyvind Larssen 60BT7
> Hi,
>
> while we are at it, can someone please ID a carb setup that came with the
> 100-6 that I have, it is for a four cylinder car, and SU and has AUD 94P
> on it.
>
> Thanks, I dont think its Healey so will find it a home.
>
> Bob Bowie in Maine
> Healey 100, 3000 MkI
>
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 12:54:06 EDT
Subject: Healey Sighting in Palo Alto
Along El Camino yesterday (Thursday), near Fry's in Palo Alto, I spotted a
MkII BN7, black with silver panels. Anyone know who belongs to it?
Cheers
Gary
From "Eyvind Larssen" <seel at online.no>
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 19:23:32 +0200
Subject: SV: SV: Carb ID
Bob,
the AUD 94F are for the same cars.
Eyvind Larssen 60BT7
> You are very correct, one is a AUD 94R the other is AUD 94F
>
> do you know if the F is also a Volvo P1800?
>
> Thanks
>
> Bob Bowie in Maine
>
>
> On Fri, 18 Aug 2000 18:43:06 +0200 "Eyvind Larssen" <seel@online.no>
> writes:
> > Bob,
> > according to my ref. list its not a Healey carb. Yours should be AUC
> > 815 for BN4 1956-59 2 pcs. H4 or
> > AUC 866 for BN6 1957-59 2 pcs. HD6.
> > Cant find the number AUD 94P in my list... closest no. I got is AUD
> > 94R (Check nos. again)
> > btw. this is for a Volvo P1800 1963 2 pcs. HS6, also for B18D P544 &
> > P1225 1956-66.
> >
> > Eyvind Larssen 60BT7
> >
> >
> > > Hi,
> > >
> > > while we are at it, can someone please ID a carb setup that came
> > with the
> > > 100-6 that I have, it is for a four cylinder car, and SU and has
> > AUD 94P
> > > on it.
> > >
> > > Thanks, I dont think its Healey so will find it a home.
> > >
> > > Bob Bowie in Maine
> > > Healey 100, 3000 MkI
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________
> YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET!
> Juno now offers FREE Internet Access!
> Try it today - there's no risk! For your FREE software, visit:
> http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
>
>
From hm.heim at t-online.de (Helga & Martin Heim)
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 19:23:25 +0200
Subject: Re: Carb ID
Hi Bob,
according to the SU Reference Catalogue from Burlen Fuel, UK the Volvo P1800
4 cyl and the Volvo B18D P544 & P1225 Pancake Filter has 2 HS6 carbs AUD
94F (front) and AUD 94R (rear). Could P be R ?
Hope that helps
Regards
Martin
Germany
----- Original Message -----
From: <deemi@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 18, 2000 3:52 PM
Subject: Carb ID
>
> Hi,
>
> while we are at it, can someone please ID a carb setup that came with the
> 100-6 that I have, it is for a four cylinder car, and SU and has AUD 94P
> on it.
>
> Thanks, I dont think its Healey so will find it a home.
>
> Bob Bowie in Maine
> Healey 100, 3000 MkI
>
> ________________________________________________________________
> http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
From David Neale <dneale at pacbell.net>
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2000 22:04:22 -0700
Subject: Re: Door Handles
Does anyone have a tip for removing the pin that secures the inside door
handles? I am replacing inside door trim panels on my BN7.
Thank you
David Neale
BN7
BJ8
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 20:52:52 -0500
Subject: BVILLE (no LBC )
Well another Humbling Speed week for the So Al Special and Keith... not a
Pretty Picture... wrecked the motor by setting the Timing retard wrong....
Went 218 mph out the back of the 5 mile long course... and had everything
sorted out... we were cooking... then I messed up the motor with the timing
deal...
Lots of folks have written while I was gone bout the Hot Rod Magazine
article.. it's on pg 92-94 of Septembers issue... should be on your shelf
now... and the Hot Rod Tv deal on speed vision... I still havn't seen it...
if anyone taped it let me know....
Thank you all for your support of a Non Healey car.... I will tell you
this... the Front end was done and Brought to speedweek for the Bugeye...
and I stuffed it into the back of the Truck for the trip home.... it's an
exact replica of Doug Odom's bugeye... ( doesn't look a thing like a
bugeye... but then who cares this is about going FAST... not looking
correct ) I had a chance to hang out with Land Speed Louis... the writer of
the current book on Land Speed Racing... she was most apologetic about not
saying more about Donald Healey's efforts... in her book.... she did most
the research among Hot Rodders and very few had the info on the Healeys....
amazing she found anything to put in there....
Keith Turk.... the So Al Special... 100.... bugeyes... and bunches of box
sprites
From "mel" <mel5 at mindspring.com>
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 22:08:03 -0400
Subject: Door Spacing
Hi all-
I need a couple of questions answered concerning my 67 BJ8. I am in the
middle of a bolts off restoration and need to know the gap measurement
between the door and rocker panel and fenders. Is there a publication that
would have that info or does anyone just happen to know? Also, I need a new
dashboard and am not skillful enough to make one myself. Does anyone know
who sells the most correct one?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Mel Brunet
Land O'Lakes, FL
mel5@mindspring.com
More questions to follow.
From rfeibusch at loop.com (Richard Feibusch)
Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2000 05:15:08 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Los Angeles British Car Meet 2000
THE GREATER LOS ANGELES BRITISH CAR MEET
Sunday, September 24th 2000
Woodley Park * Van Nuys, California
Be part of one of the biggest, one-day, all British lawn events in
California. Over 500 classic, quirky and thoroughly lovable British cars
are expected to fill Woodley Park in Van Nuys, for the 17th Annual Greater
Los Angeles British Car Meet.
Don't have a show car? Don't worry! Daily drivers, vintage racers, street
rods & works-in-progress are as welcome as Concours quality show cars.
Great British food, live jazz, vendors and more fun than you'll be able to
stand! People's Choice awards will be given in six classes.
There is no preregistration. Cars will be placed on the field at 9:00AM and
the fun goes on all day. The registration fee is only $20 per car, at the
gate. All participants receive a meet memento. Spectators park and attend
free.
Woodley Park is located in Van Nuys, just north of the Ventura Freeway
(101), on Woodley Avenue between Burbank Blvd. and Victory Blvd. From the
San Diego Freeway (405), take the Burbank Blvd. exit west, drive to Woodley
Ave. and turn right. Look for the park entrance to the right.
If you need more information, call: 310-392-6605 or email us at:
rfeibusch@loop.com
From "Donald L. Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2000 07:50:31 -0500
Subject: Newburgh, IN British Car Meet
Sorry to bomb the list, but I need to know the date for the BCM at Newburgh,
IN. Jim at BGAHC please respond.
Don
BN7
From "mel" <mel5 at mindspring.com>
Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2000 11:00:51 -0400
Subject: Archives
Could someone give me the archives address.
Thanks
Mel Brunet
67 BJ8
mel5@mindspring.com
From BGAHC at aol.com
Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2000 19:16:43 EDT
Subject: Re: Newburgh, IN British Car Meet
dyarber@dynasty.net writes: Sorry to bomb the list, but I need to know the
date for the BCM at Newburgh,
September 16 in Newburgh, In. Check out the SIR Brit website at sirbrit.com
for details.
Newburgh is about ten miles upriver from Evansville. Nice little British car
show with about 75 cars on the site of an old lock on the Ohio River. You can
walk into town and check out the shops and restaurants during the show also.
I'm leading the Healey Club and the Louisville British Car Club trip. I
expect about ten to twelve cars to go. Hope to see you there.
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
1957 BN4 Rally Car
1966 BJ8
From "tom felts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2000 19:59:34 -0400
Subject: Conclave Photos
Someone recently posted a link to some Conclave photos taken in Zionsville.
Would you be so kind to re-post the link.
TIA
Tom
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2000 20:00:47 EDT
Subject: Re: Door Handles
In a message dated 8/18/00 11:47:23 AM, dneale@pacbell.net writes:
<<
Does anyone have a tip for removing the pin that secures the inside door
handles? I am replacing inside door trim panels on my BN7. >>
You need to press the circular escutcheon into the door panel until the pin
is exposed on both ends, then press the pin out with an awl or something of
the sort. The trick is to make yourself a sort of fork -- two wedges in
parallel. One thought is to get one of those wooden salad forks, break off
one or two tines in the middle to fit, then carve the outside tines into
longer wedges. It actually isn't as hard to get the handle off as it is to
get it back on, but the same tool will help a lot.
Good luck.
Cheers
Garyh
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2000 20:03:40 EDT
Subject: Re: Door Spacing
In a message dated 8/18/00 7:11:25 PM, mel5@mindspring.com writes:
<< I am in the
middle of a bolts off restoration and need to know the gap measurement
between the door and rocker panel and fenders. >>
About a quarter-inch is nice. However, the most important thing is that the
gap be pretty close to even on the front and back, and about equal to that at
the bottom. Work with shims under the hinges should do it, if the frame and
pillars are in good alignment.
Cheers
Gary
From "Jeff Brantley" <jbrantley at redshift.com>
Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2000 18:43:19 -0700
Subject: The 100S in action at Monterey!
Just returned from a gorgeous day at Laguna Seca. The sights and sounds of
the 100 S roaring around the track were great (there were a couple of other
neat cars there also)! I'll let all the pro photographers share their foto's
of the day's activities. Unfortunately, we missed the 10 am AH meeting at
what used to be MacDonalds so we're not sure who made it out for the day.
Another highlight for us British car "freaks " was to see original Jag test
pilot Norman Dewis racing a works D type Jaguar. He pushed the big cat
pretty hard...not bad for a recently turned 80 year old English gentleman!
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2000 22:12:52 EDT
Subject: Re: The 100S in action at Monterey!
In a message dated 08/19/2000 8:41:49 PM Central Daylight Time,
jbrantley@redshift.com writes:
<< Another highlight for us British car "freaks " was to see original Jag
test
pilot Norman Dewis racing a works D type Jaguar. He pushed the big cat
pretty hard...not bad for a recently turned 80 year old English gentleman!
>>
Jeff, not sure of John Chatham's age but if you EVER wanted a "thriil";
shoulda seen him throw DD300 in and out of Turn 5 at Elkhart, swapping paint
& metal, whilst (loose use of word) "chasing Augie Pabst !! UNREAL!!!!
Cheers...........
Ed
PS: And that was the day after a VERY LONG night of an engine swap in
DD300. >>
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2000 09:52:06 EDT
Subject: Wiring Diagram for Spitfire
Hi Group,
I have a friend who is attempting to rewire his 70 Triumph Spitfire, but has
no diagram to follow. He claims that is none for that year. I'm sure
someone out there knows better. If you can please help, let me know. Thanks.
Rudy Streng in Lenoir, NC
55 BN1
57 BN4
From "malcolm Terry" <mterry at bpsinet.com>
Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2000 10:16:25 -0400
Subject: Morgan for sale
1959 Morgan +4 roadster, can be seen at, www.twinrocker.com/mogterry.htm,
Price negotiable.
From "Ross Maylor" <obiedog at telusplanet.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2000 08:42:57 -0600
Subject: One off
10 years ago while livng in Paris I attended a vintage race meet at
Montlhery. In the Healey paddock there was a Ghia bodied 100-4. I just came
across the photos I took of it. Can any body expand on its history or
details?
Just Curious
Ross
From "Ross Maylor" <obiedog at telusplanet.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2000 08:33:50 -0600
Subject: Re: The 100S in action at Monterey!/Catham
Ed
Chatham's exploits are in DD300 are infamous but, except for a video of the
'91 Perelli Marathon in which he drove a 100-4(apparently with lots of 100S
bits), I have not seen him race. I have seen Dennis Welch drive his 100-6?
at Castle Coombe, Silverstone and Montlhery France. Fast and Magnificant.
I wonder if they have they have ever squared off?
Ross
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2000 12:51:39 EDT
Subject: Re: Wiring Diagram for Spitfire
Rudy : There are several different ones for the early years. I have most of
them have him contact me at the shop and I will wee what Ican come up with.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>Br
itishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From "Andrew Shrimpton" <stanhickeycon at clear.net.nz>
Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2000 08:26:10 +1200
Subject: Competition Shock Dampers
Moss sell a competition shock damper for original lever shocks. Has
anyone fitted these and care to comment on their performance compared
to the originals?
Andrew Shrimpton
BT7
NZ
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2000 17:28:36 -0700
Subject: Goodwood on Speedvision
The Goodwood Festival is on now, 5-6pm West Coast time. Looks like it will
be repeated at midnite tonite.
Great cars, drivers, paintings, etc. Try to catch it.
Bill Katz
SF Bay Area
'67 BJ8
'94 325is
http://www.handsonresearch.com/healey
From MOWOGMAN at aol.com
Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2000 22:12:08 EDT
Subject: Trans cover paint color?
Anybody ever match the extremely attractive dark brown that the transmission
cover is painted? ('60 BT7)
thanks,
John
Oostburg, WI
'60 BT7
'60 Mini
'80 TR7 (freshly repainted Carmine red!)
'69 AA
'57 Isetta
Etc.
From MOWOGMAN at aol.com
Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2000 22:23:19 EDT
Subject: Further throttle linkage question.
I seem to have the throttle linkage close to sorted out on the '60 BT7 thanks
to a very helpful lister!, (thanks, John!)
But I seek further knowledge.
Does anyone know if if there throttles really open up all the way, when the
gas pedal is depressed all the way? In other words mine do not, but the
engine is perfectly capable of revving way past redline (not that I did this,
you can just tell) You could easily check this by having friend push pedal
to floor (with engine off) and look at linkage to see if it is against carb
body stops.
thanks for any insights!
John
Oostburg, WI
'60 BT7
'60 Mini
'80 TR7 (freshly repainted Carmine red!)
'69 AA
'57 Isetta
Etc.
From Fred Hunter <fhunter at kcnet.com>
Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2000 04:44:15 -0500
Subject: Re: One off
Ross Maylor wrote:
>
> 10 years ago while livng in Paris I attended a vintage race meet at
> Montlhery. In the Healey paddock there was a Ghia bodied 100-4. I just came
> across the photos I took of it. Can any body expand on its history or
> details?
Ross:
Ghia bodied 100/4? Pictures, let's see pictures!
Please, scan those photos and put them up on the web for us to see! And
if you can't find anywhere else to host them, shucks, just e-mail me the
scans, and I'll put them up for folks to see!
Best regards,
Fred Hunter
Approached
A crossing
Without looking
Who will eat
His widow's cooking?
--Burma-Shave--
From PINNSYSGRP at aol.com
Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2000 08:29:12 EDT
Subject: AHSTC Encounter 2000
Hi all:
Returned yesterday from the Austin Healey Sports and Touring Club's Encounter
2000 held in Valley Forge, PA. My hat is off to all the Philadelphia region
people for a job well done. Sharon and I had a great time; from the tour of
Philadelphia on Wednesday night; to Healey Jeopardy on Thursday evening; to
the good eats and fun raffles throughout the weekend. The cars get better and
better. Good to see old friends and make some new ones.
Again, thanks, Philadelphia Region.
John & Sharon Downing
From "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej at mossmotors.com>
Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2000 06:24:40 -0700
Subject: RE: Trunk (boot) seal
This seal came from a secondary source that we aren't using anymore. We did
have one of these stuck in the back of the bin, but Michael said that it
didn't sound like the one he had received. I could imagine problems with
this one. The others we have are just like Roger Moment's description.
-----Original Message-----
From: John Loftus [mailto:loftusdesign@home.com]
Sent: Thursday, August 17, 2000 2:35 PM
To: Awgertoo@aol.com
Cc: 'healeys@autox.team.net'; Lane, Jonathan
Subject: Re: Trunk (boot) seal
Michael,
I've got the same problem on my BJ7. The PO had installed a seal that
sounds like the one you have described. The seal is about 1/4" in the
center where it contacts the lip and the boot stands at least 1/8" too
high. The seal profile looks to be symetrical (there is no thin side or
thick side) and the material durometer is fairly stiff. Attached is a
scan showing the profile. Do the Moss seals look like this?
I noticed that British Car Specialist Y2K catalog, page 32 has a truck
lid seal with the caption, "ours has the correct hollow". The profile in
the illustration appears to have a thin side and thick side and larger
hollow area.
Hope this helps.
John
Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 8/17/00 11:37:54 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> lanej@mossmotors.com writes:
>
> << I'm not sure why Michael is having trouble with it. Anybody have any
> ideas? Is there a wrong way to put it on? >>
>
> There are only two ways to put it on and the problem is the same either
way:
> With no seal the lid fits very nicely--with the seal the lid is forced up
by
> at least 1/8". As we discussed, the seal that you furnished is a strong
1/4"
> high in the section where the lip of the surround would make contact, and
I
> do not feel it is very pliable, as it is forcing the lid up, even next to
the
> hinges, which you would think, would exert sufficient force to compress
the
> seal. So far as I can tell there is no irregularity to the lip and I
cannot
> imagine that anyone went to the trouble to carefully weld on additional
> aluminum so as to build the edge up!
>
> I cannot use the seal that you sent without causing seriious distortion to
> the boot lid. I have heard several recommendations of other sources for a
> "correct" product. Where do we go from here?
>
> I am copying the list not to embarass you or your firm but rather because
you
> wanted to put this out for more input, and a complete description of the
> problem might be helpful in getting a solution or further suggestions.
>
> Thank you--Michael Oritt
From "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej at mossmotors.com>
Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2000 06:45:46 -0700
Subject: RE: Engine paint
Uh, oh, I knew I should have got a hotmail account when joining this list!!
:7)
I have usually just painted the whole engine once it's assembled and sitting
on the stand. You shouldn't have to scuff the paint at all, but it might
not be a bad idea.
-----Original Message-----
From: Ward Stebner [mailto:liason@sk.sympatico.ca]
Sent: Friday, August 18, 2000 6:36 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Engine paint
I am just wondering if someone can provide me with some information on
the Healey Green engine paint sold by Moss (Jonathan maybe?). If I
paint some components separately, and then assemble them to the engine,
and would like to paint the engine as a whole, do I need to scuff the
finish on the paint prior to repainting if more than a few hours has
elapsed? I am painting some of the pieces separately (ie. manifolds,
starter, generator, valve cover) so that I get good coverage on them.
Should I be painting the block by itself, without the components then
just hand paint the fasteners later?
Thanks.
Ward Stebner
Saskatoon, SK
1956 BN2
From "Jeff Brantley" <jbrantley at redshift.com>
Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2000 08:06:44 -0700
Subject: Re: AH sold for Big $$$
Might be of interest...a 1962 AH 3000 MK II sold at the Christie's Pebble
Beach auction last night for $55,000! I saw the car during preview and it
was extremely nice...liked like a full body off restoration...but that is
still a pretty high price! The "star" of the show was a 1966 Scuderia
Ferrari 330 P3 that fetched a whopping $5.1 million...pretty fun to watch
the bidding on that car!
All in all, another incredible classic car week/weekend here on the Monterey
Peninsula! If you've never seen it, you should consider it.
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2000 08:47:00 -0700
Subject: RE: AH sold for Big $$$
I saw a BJ8 at RM auction at the Monterey Doubletree Saturday night go for
29,000. Wrong color and couldn't get up close to inspect it. Of course that
was after the Cobra Dayton coupe went for 4 million. Maybe the big roller
Healey bidders had left.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
-----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Brantley [mailto:jbrantley@redshift.com]
Sent: Monday, August 21, 2000 8:07 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: AH sold for Big $$$
Might be of interest...a 1962 AH 3000 MK II sold at the Christie's Pebble
Beach auction last night for $55,000! I saw the car during preview and it
was extremely nice...liked like a full body off restoration...but that is
still a pretty high price! The "star" of the show was a 1966 Scuderia
Ferrari 330 P3 that fetched a whopping $5.1 million...pretty fun to watch
the bidding on that car!
All in all, another incredible classic car week/weekend here on the Monterey
Peninsula! If you've never seen it, you should consider it.
From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2000 09:10:56 -0700
Subject: Any pics of Monterey?
A family emergency kept me away from the Monterey weekend. I'm bummed as I
haven't had an opportunity to attend the Pebble Beach Concours or Historic
Car Races in years. I am hoping one of our Healey listers took some good
digital pics and will be putting them online for all to see - please!
Randy '66 BJ8
From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2000 09:24:55 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Healey restoration
In 1991-92 I took a course put on by Martin Jansen of Jule Enterprises
in Milton[at that time], Ontario. With 5 other participants, I took a
MkI 3000 that had sat in a garden for 22 years and totally disassembled
it and then restored it. This course ran over a year with almost every
Saturday spent on the car. And Of course there was a lot of bench
jawing. If you want a more detailed description of how the course went
you can check out Don Robert's article in the Feb 1993 issue of
Chatter.
During the course, many pictures were taken and a video camera was used
extensively. As a result, I have some great photos and videos of
restoring a 1960 BT7 MkI 3000.
Some of the video detail aspects which may be of interest to you such
as rebuilding a transmission or front end suspension. Other than a
few cross over subjects, much of the material may not apply to a '67
BJ8.
I've have talked to Martin about making copies of the material
available and am now in the process of editing many hours of footage to
prepare a reasonable package. As you can imagine, this is a part time
effort and I expect it may be some time before I have a finished
product. Your name is on my list Dennis and I'll let you know when the
job is done.
--- Wiggins1 <wiggins1@mediaone.net> wrote:
> I read some time ago that you had put together some video and photos
> of a Healey restoration. Would it be possible to get a copy of this
> material. I am in the midst of a full restoration on a 67 BJ8.
> Thanks
> Dennis Wiggins
> Jacksonville, Fl
=====
J. Scott Morris
Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
__________________________________________________
Yahoo! Mail – Free email you can access from anywhere!
http://mail.yahoo.com/
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2000 12:33:59 EDT
Subject: Re: RE: AH sold for Big $$$
In a message dated 8/21/00 8:50:36 AM, Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com writes:
<< I saw a BJ8 at RM auction at the Monterey Doubletree Saturday night go for
29,000. Wrong color and couldn't get up close to inspect it. Of course that
was after the Cobra Dayton coupe went for 4 million. Maybe the big roller
Healey bidders had left.
Ken Freese >>
I did see the BJ8 at RM. It was the wrong color (sort of a lobelia over a
beigish ivory white) but a reasonable paint job, and a new black vinyl Moss
interior. Had a clean-enough engine compartment but not a frame-up
restoration. Pretty much a club-driver quality of car, so that would be a
reasonable price. I didn't get over to Christies due to schedule conflicts so
will have to wait for reports on the Healey. That makes the second average
Healey that we've seen break the $50k barrier at an auction in the past three
months. While auction prices may be above the norm, they still do act to
pull up the overall market, so we could be looking at $40k for a very good
restoration of a standard model in comparison to the $35 that has been the
norm over the past two years.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
Editor, British Car magazine
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2000 13:17:23 -0400
Subject: Re: AH sold for Big $$$
Was it a Tri-carb?
Lee
'62 BT7 Tri-carb
>
>Might be of interest...a 1962 AH 3000 MK II sold at the Christie's Pebble
>Beach auction last night for $55,000! I saw the car during preview and it
>was extremely nice
From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2000 17:59:57 EDT
Subject: Monterey pictures
Someone requested Monterey pictures?
http://www.pelicanparts.com/support/whatsnew.htm
Rick
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2000 19:44:48 EDT
Subject: Major Healey Sale query
Reported in Sports Car Market August issue: Austin-Healey BT7 (car #
HBT7L/1941, eng. # 29DRU/H2003) sold at Christies Petersen Museum sale in
June for $64,625 with commission. Reported to be recent restoration to "John
Wilson" standards (though apparently not done by John) but the picture of the
car shows it wearing a MKII vertical bar grille!
Does anyone know anything about this car, who restored it, or why the sale
price went so high?
Inquiring minds want to know...
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From "Genevieve Judge" <gjudge at uswest.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2000 17:17:24 -0700
Subject: RE: Monterey pictures
Rick -
VERY nicely done. Loved the MPEG files. Oh, I love my DSL access just for
occasions like this!.
Genevieve
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of HealeyRic2@aol.com
Sent: Monday, August 21, 2000 3:00 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Monterey pictures
Someone requested Monterey pictures?
http://www.pelicanparts.com/support/whatsnew.htm
Rick
From "RL Chrysler" <lchrysl at fhs.csu.McMaster.CA>
Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2000 21:38:57 -0400
Subject: Plating Misc Parts
Hello Listers,
Can anyone direct me to a business, place, person, or means in Southern
Ontario of getting misc. fasteners, clips, and so on zinc plated for a
restoration?
Rich Chrysler
From rfeibusch at loop.com (Richard Feibusch)
Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2000 20:29:21 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: San Diego British Car Day 2000
Update On The 21st Annual San Diego British Car Day:
Sunday, October 1, 2000, 10:00am to 2:00pm
Fairbrook Farm,
4949 South Mission Road
Bonsall, California
This beautiful site offers the perfect setting to display your pride and
joy, and see hundreds of other fine British cars. Bring your own picnic
lunch, or enjoy the foo offered by food vendor. Numerous regalia, parts
and hobby related vendors will be on hand to tempt your pocketbook.
This year's raffle will feature the best prizes ever!!!! A portion of this
year's raffle proceeds will be divided amongst 3 local charities.
Pre-Registration is $10.00 Day-of-Show Registration is $15.00, "Walk-in" is
$2.00. Your advance registration not only saves you $5.00, but also gains
you "express admittance!" Registration and Entrance beginning at 9:00am.
To get to Fairbrook Farm, take Hwy 76 east from Interstate 5, or Hwy 76
west from Interstate 15. Turn north on South Mission Road, proceed north .4
mile.
For more information contact Dave Kirby at: DKirby210@aol.com
We do have a web site!!!
Check out http://www.sandiegobritishcarday.org/
Or call:
Steve 760-746-9028
Maggie 858-566-6619
Joe 909-693-9094
Paul 619-575-5625
From pcowper at webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 00:06:00 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Laguna Seca Meet at McDonalds
I waited around in front of (and behind) the old McDonalds stand at
Laguna Seca from 9:50 a.m. until 10:30 a.m. on Saturday morning. Enjoyed
a great breakfast burrito from the new operators, but did I see any
Austin-Healey owners? Where where you all hiding and giggling as you
watched me make a fool out of myself?
I kept looking at the folks milling about trying to determine what an
Austin-Healey owner looks like. I ignored those with Porsche, Ferrari
and Shelby shirts . . . limiting myself mostly to those greying folks.
I approached a few lost looking souls, however none of them were members
of the Austin-Healey list . . . but all seemed to have owned an
Austin-Healey or had a friend who drove one in their distant past.
Healey owner spotting is rather difficult. The major sportswear vendors
don't seem to promote our logo. I did discover (over by the corkscrew
turn) that those Healey owners who carry huge obsolete Nikon 4"x4"
cameras mounted on sturdy tripods are easy to spot and can't run away
quickly with their cumbersome load when approached by other Healey
owners.
Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
From "Donald L. Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 06:29:18 -0500
Subject: Bad Fit for BN7 two seater TOP (The thing that covers the cockpit)
I might have mentioned before that my top got chewed by mice and I took the
material away from the bow and had a nice patch sewn in. I then made a new
wooden bow to almost exactly the same size and dimensions as the old one.
Same lines, same curves, etc. (A little fatter on the outside top edges,
but non-significant.)
When I tried to put the top on the car the other day, the holes that go over
the two turnbuckles just aft of the doors will not line up. The trim shop
that sewed the patch in swears they did not reduce the length of the overall
top. I'm about 3/8 of an inch short.
This question is for all of you two-seater owners.
If I move the slotted chrome holders on the rear tonneau panel forward by
the needed 3/8 inch will I be able to adjust out the resulting wrinkle by
using the last bow? Or does anyone know a way to fix this problem?
Also looking for the original chrome top latches that hook the top to the
windshield posts. Mine are "bootlegged" and don't appear to be original.
Don BN7
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 10:19:50 EDT
Subject: green hooding material
This is just an inquery to see what interest might be out there for a special
top material.
BN1s, and some early BN2s, trimmed in the dark green leather cloth, had a
light green material for their hood (top) and tonneau. These cars would have
been painted either Spruce Green, OEW, or black. The only material even
close to the correct shade, that is still available, is lighter in weight and
only suitable for interior trim work, not the top or tonneau. The last car I
saw trimmed in green, where the correct heavy light green material was used,
was restored a decade ago. Checking all the sources I know of has not turned
up any of this material today.
A friend of mine in England is looking into possibly having some of this
material made up in a special run. He has previously had the dark green used
on door panels and seat backs run off. He is an individual who runs his own
restoration shop, and is not affiliated with any of the known companies that
sell Healey or other marque parts.
Since he'd have to have a large amount run off, the question is whether there
would be sufficient market for him to sell much of it and recover his costs.
If anyone out there is restoring a 100 that is looking for this light green
hooding/tonneau material, please let me know so I can pass on to him what
potential demand might exist. I don't have any idea of cost yet. I would
estimate that 5 meters would do both a top and tonneau. The binding strips
would be cut from the edge first. Considering the rarity of this material,
you might also consider buying some extra so that you'll have it should you
have need for any in the future.
Roger
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 10:19:51 EDT
Subject: early BN1 "U" bolts
The early (4-bolt axle) BN1s had a unique "U" bolt attaching the rear spring
to the axle. It had a "square" bend, rather than rounded, and installed from
under the spring.
I am looking for some good, used original ones. A friend needs 8 to do two
cars. If anyone has some they would be willing to part with, please contact
me directly.
Thanks,
Roger
From "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej at mossmotors.com>
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 07:55:57 -0700
Subject: RE: Laguna Seca Meet at McDonalds
We are difficult to pin down aren't we. Is the Healey owner the bearded guy
with the flannel shirt? Is he the guy with the leather jacket and the
sunglasses? Or is he the freaky looking young dude with crazy hair and
tie-dyed T shirt? It's hard to tell, but for the record I was the guy with
the crazy hair and tie-dyed T-shirt.
I did see Tim Allen wandering around with a bit of loveliness on his arm.
Jonathan Lane
'60 BN7
-----Original Message-----
From: pcowper@webtv.net [mailto:pcowper@webtv.net]
Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2000 12:06 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Laguna Seca Meet at McDonalds
I waited around in front of (and behind) the old McDonalds stand at
Laguna Seca from 9:50 a.m. until 10:30 a.m. on Saturday morning. Enjoyed
a great breakfast burrito from the new operators, but did I see any
Austin-Healey owners? Where where you all hiding and giggling as you
watched me make a fool out of myself?
I kept looking at the folks milling about trying to determine what an
Austin-Healey owner looks like. I ignored those with Porsche, Ferrari
and Shelby shirts . . . limiting myself mostly to those greying folks.
I approached a few lost looking souls, however none of them were members
of the Austin-Healey list . . . but all seemed to have owned an
Austin-Healey or had a friend who drove one in their distant past.
Healey owner spotting is rather difficult. The major sportswear vendors
don't seem to promote our logo. I did discover (over by the corkscrew
turn) that those Healey owners who carry huge obsolete Nikon 4"x4"
cameras mounted on sturdy tripods are easy to spot and can't run away
quickly with their cumbersome load when approached by other Healey
owners.
Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 11:50:19 EDT
Subject: Re: RE: Laguna Seca Meet at McDonalds
In a message dated 8/22/00 8:01:44 AM, lanej@mossmotors.com writes:
<<
I did see Tim Allen wandering around with a bit of loveliness on his arm. >>
You mean he and Jill have broken up?
Cheers
Gary
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 08:49:49 -0700
Subject: OT: what was the cheap registrar name
Sorry to bomb the list, but I can't find the old message about the domain
registrar that only charged $15.00. Can the person who posted that message
please reply via email.
Thnx
BK
From "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej at mossmotors.com>
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 08:50:23 -0700
Subject: RE: RE: Laguna Seca Meet at McDonalds
This was definately NOT Jill...
-----Original Message-----
From: Editorgary@aol.com [mailto:Editorgary@aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2000 8:50 AM
To: lanej@mossmotors.com; pcowper@webtv.net; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: RE: Laguna Seca Meet at McDonalds
In a message dated 8/22/00 8:01:44 AM, lanej@mossmotors.com writes:
<<
I did see Tim Allen wandering around with a bit of loveliness on his arm. >>
You mean he and Jill have broken up?
Cheers
Gary
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 12:15:40 EDT
Subject: Re: One off Ghia bodied A-H
Listers:
Received the following this AM:
<< This is the car in question. I could only find the one photo although I
have
more somewhere. All in B&W unfortunately. I do remember it being red though.
Photo taken 1991 at a vintage race weekend in Montlhery France.
Ross
>>
It may now be seen at http://www.justbrits.com
Many, many thanks to Ross for sharing this. You AIN'T gonna believe this
one !!!
Cheers............
Ed
PS: For you non-healeys Listers that just like BEAUTIFUL cars, this is well
worth the look, IMHO.
From Healybj8 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 14:01:13 EDT
Subject: Re: One off Ghia bodied A-H
Well that is a good looking car, but why is the car in the background going the
wrong way around the track? Perhaps they are doing one of those "polish
victory laps" that you see them do in Nascar occasionally. ;o)~
Tim
From "Andrew Shrimpton" <stanhickeycon at clear.net.nz>
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 07:35:12 +1200
Subject: Competition Shock Valves
Maybe if I get the name right I'll get a response! What I referred to
as dampers are actually Armstrong shock valves, for installing into
the lever arm shocks. These were apparently used by the Works cars.
As before, any comments on their effectiveness would be appreciated.
Andrew Shrimpton
BT7
New Zealand
From Norman Cay <normcay at earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 12:40:58 -0700
Subject: Re: Archives
mel. if someone has answered this directly to you, please share it. if
not, can someone please give us directions?
tia, norm
mel wrote:
> Could someone give me the archives address.
>
> Thanks
>
> Mel Brunet
> 67 BJ8
> mel5@mindspring.com
From rfeibusch at loop.com (Richard Feibusch)
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 12:47:32 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Joke
One day in the jungle a chimpanzee invented some tools to eat his
dinner. One tool was a flat stick sharpened along one edge, this he
used to cut his food. The other was a stick with four smaller sticks
attached to the end each sharpened to a point. He used to spear his
food and place it in his mouth. The chimp was very proud of his
inventions which he called his one point tool and his four point
tool.
One day he awoke to find that the four point tool was missing. The
chimp was distraught. He ran around the jungle trying to find his
precious tool.
First he came upon the lion.
"Lion, Lion!" he cried, "Have you seen my four point tool?"
"No." Replied the lion, "I have not seen your four point tool."
Then the chimp came upon the gorilla.
"Gorilla, Gorilla!" he cried, "Have you seen my four point tool?"
"No." Replied the gorilla, "I have not seen your four point tool."
Then the chimp came upon the jaguar.
"Jaguar, Jaguar!" he cried, "Have you seen my four point tool?"
"Yup!" replied the jaguar, "I've seen your four point tool."
"Well where is it?" inquired the chimp.
"I ate it." Said the jaguar, smugly.
"Why would you do that?" Cried the chimp.
"Because," replied the big cat, "I'm a four point tool eater jaguar!"
From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 13:10:25 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Competition Shock Valves
Andrew;
I suggest you contact Russ Bamsey in Paris, Ontario, Canada at either
the above cc email address or call (519) 442-3673. Russ has developed
quite a hobby rebuilding Armstrong lever arm dampers as well as the
North American variety for vintage cars. Between restoring his BJ7,
his wife's 356 Porsche cabriolet, and keeping his own MGB on the road,
he has developed quite a knack for rebuilding/restoring/upgrading lever
arm dampers/shocks and you will find him to be quite personable.
Good luck and remember to keep smiling 'cause Murphy Lives
Scott Morris, '62 BT7 driver; '60 BN7 awaiting a lot of TLC
--- Andrew Shrimpton <stanhickeycon@clear.net.nz> wrote:
>
> Maybe if I get the name right I'll get a response! What I referred to
> as dampers are actually Armstrong shock valves, for installing into
> the lever arm shocks. These were apparently used by the Works cars.
>
> As before, any comments on their effectiveness would be appreciated.
>
> Andrew Shrimpton
> BT7
> New Zealand
>
=====
J. Scott Morris
Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
__________________________________________________
Yahoo! Mail – Free email you can access from anywhere!
http://mail.yahoo.com/
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 15:16:35 -0500
Subject: Re: Archives
The Archives are located at www.listquest.com
Keith
----------
> From: Norman Cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
> To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: Archives
> Date: Tuesday, August 22, 2000 2:40 PM
>
>
> mel. if someone has answered this directly to you, please share it. if
> not, can someone please give us directions?
> tia, norm
>
> mel wrote:
>
> > Could someone give me the archives address.
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Mel Brunet
> > 67 BJ8
> > mel5@mindspring.com
>
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 16:15:40 EDT
Subject: Re: Archives
In a message dated 8/22/00 12:58:55, normcay@earthlink.net writes:
<<
mel. if someone has answered this directly to you, please share it. if
not, can someone please give us directions?
tia, norm
mel wrote:
> Could someone give me the archives address.
>
> Thanks
>
> Mel Brunet
> 67 BJ8
> mel5@mindspring.com
You can access the archive at:
http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=healeys
From "JISah102" <ah102 at home.com>
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 16:29:03 -0400
Subject: Re: Archives
Go to www.listquest.com , select automobiles, british cars,
Healeys.
Good Luck
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: Norman Cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2000 3:40 PM
Subject: Re: Archives
>
> mel. if someone has answered this directly to you, please share it. if
> not, can someone please give us directions?
> tia, norm
>
> mel wrote:
>
> > Could someone give me the archives address.
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Mel Brunet
> > 67 BJ8
> > mel5@mindspring.com
>
>
From "ferddy" <ferddy at email.msn.com>
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 17:30:41 -0700
Subject: Re: Bad Fit for BN7 two seater TOP (The thing that covers the cockpit)
Don,
I purchased repro latches, not exact but close, from cape-international
www.cape-intenational.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Donald L. Yarber" <dyarber@dynasty.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2000 4:29 AM
Subject: Bad Fit for BN7 two seater TOP (The thing that covers the cockpit)
>
> I might have mentioned before that my top got chewed by mice and I took
the
> material away from the bow and had a nice patch sewn in. I then made a
new
> wooden bow to almost exactly the same size and dimensions as the old one.
> Same lines, same curves, etc. (A little fatter on the outside top edges,
> but non-significant.)
>
> When I tried to put the top on the car the other day, the holes that go
over
> the two turnbuckles just aft of the doors will not line up. The trim shop
> that sewed the patch in swears they did not reduce the length of the
overall
> top. I'm about 3/8 of an inch short.
>
> This question is for all of you two-seater owners.
>
> If I move the slotted chrome holders on the rear tonneau panel forward by
> the needed 3/8 inch will I be able to adjust out the resulting wrinkle by
> using the last bow? Or does anyone know a way to fix this problem?
>
> Also looking for the original chrome top latches that hook the top to the
> windshield posts. Mine are "bootlegged" and don't appear to be original.
>
> Don BN7
>
From "Bob Judd" <bob.judd at quokka.com>
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 14:55:57 -0700
Subject: 18 coats of lacquer
My BN2 was rebuilt as a show car in 1977 and has sat in storage for most of
the last 20 years. It has 18 coats of gorgeous red paint, but as you'd
expect, it's got a few bubbles and cracks. Is it possible to have a good
painter touch it up, or is the only solution to sand it down and start
again. Thanks, Bob Judd
-----Original Message-----
From: JISah102
To: Norman Cay; healeys
Sent: 8/22/00 1:29 PM
Subject: Re: Archives
Go to www.listquest.com , select automobiles, british
cars,
Healeys.
Good Luck
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: Norman Cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2000 3:40 PM
Subject: Re: Archives
>
> mel. if someone has answered this directly to you, please share it. if
> not, can someone please give us directions?
> tia, norm
>
> mel wrote:
>
> > Could someone give me the archives address.
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Mel Brunet
> > 67 BJ8
> > mel5@mindspring.com
>
>
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 15:23:06 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: RE: Laguna Seca Meet at McDonalds
It sounds like we were all there! Mark and I were
standing by the Michellin man. Know I know that I
can't spot a fellow Healey owner unless they are
sitting in their car.
Did see Jay Lenno.
Dean
BN7
--- "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej@mossmotors.com> wrote:
>
> We are difficult to pin down aren't we. Is the
> Healey owner the bearded guy
> with the flannel shirt? Is he the guy with the
> leather jacket and the
> sunglasses? Or is he the freaky looking young dude
> with crazy hair and
> tie-dyed T shirt? It's hard to tell, but for the
> record I was the guy with
> the crazy hair and tie-dyed T-shirt.
>
> I did see Tim Allen wandering around with a bit of
> loveliness on his arm.
>
> Jonathan Lane
> '60 BN7
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: pcowper@webtv.net [mailto:pcowper@webtv.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2000 12:06 AM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Laguna Seca Meet at McDonalds
>
>
>
> I waited around in front of (and behind) the old
> McDonalds stand at
> Laguna Seca from 9:50 a.m. until 10:30 a.m. on
> Saturday morning. Enjoyed
> a great breakfast burrito from the new operators,
> but did I see any
> Austin-Healey owners? Where where you all hiding
> and giggling as you
> watched me make a fool out of myself?
>
> I kept looking at the folks milling about trying to
> determine what an
> Austin-Healey owner looks like. I ignored those
> with Porsche, Ferrari
> and Shelby shirts . . . limiting myself mostly to
> those greying folks.
> I approached a few lost looking souls, however none
> of them were members
> of the Austin-Healey list . . . but all seemed to
> have owned an
> Austin-Healey or had a friend who drove one in their
> distant past.
>
> Healey owner spotting is rather difficult. The
> major sportswear vendors
> don't seem to promote our logo. I did discover
> (over by the corkscrew
> turn) that those Healey owners who carry huge
> obsolete Nikon 4"x4"
> cameras mounted on sturdy tripods are easy to spot
> and can't run away
> quickly with their cumbersome load when approached
> by other Healey
> owners.
>
> Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
__________________________________________________
Yahoo! Mail – Free email you can access from anywhere!
http://mail.yahoo.com/
From "mel" <mel5 at mindspring.com>
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 18:26:58 -0400
Subject: Archives
Belated thanks to all who responded with the address to the archives list.
Mel Brunet
BJ8
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 18:52:58 EDT
Subject: Re: Archives
In a message dated 08/22/2000 2:58:57 PM Central Daylight Time,
normcay@earthlink.net writes:
<< can someone please give us directions? >>
Sure, guys. EASY. In the instructions you got (and apparently ignored) when
you subscribed to the List. <G>
Cheers...............
Ed(who printed them out and filed)
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 18:58:44 EDT
Subject: Re: Archives
In a message dated 8/22/00 15:55:32, JustBrits@aol.com writes:
<< << can someone please give us directions? >>
Sure, guys. EASY. In the instructions you got (and apparently ignored) when
you subscribed to the List. <G>
Cheers...............
Ed(who printed them out and filed) >>
Almost said that myself.
From "JISah102" <ah102 at home.com>
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 19:09:18 -0400
Subject: Re: 18 coats of lacquer
Bob
Here is my $.02
It's very possible, especially with Lacquer. A good body man can spot sand
out the bubbles and cracks, and blend in the repair. Red may fade with age,
and even though it has been indoors all these years, the original paint
might not match. A good shop can match the paint.....especially if it is a
solid color (not metallic).
It's certainly worth a try....a complete re-do is a few thousand $$.
Good Luck, Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Judd <bob.judd@quokka.com>
To: 'JISah102 ' <ah102@home.com>; 'Norman Cay ' <normcay@earthlink.net>;
'healeys ' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2000 5:55 PM
Subject: 18 coats of lacquer
> My BN2 was rebuilt as a show car in 1977 and has sat in storage for most
of
> the last 20 years. It has 18 coats of gorgeous red paint, but as you'd
> expect, it's got a few bubbles and cracks. Is it possible to have a good
> painter touch it up, or is the only solution to sand it down and start
> again. Thanks, Bob Judd
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: JISah102
> To: Norman Cay; healeys
> Sent: 8/22/00 1:29 PM
> Subject: Re: Archives
>
>
> Go to www.listquest.com , select automobiles, british
> cars,
> Healeys.
>
> Good Luck
>
> Jim
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Norman Cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
> To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2000 3:40 PM
> Subject: Re: Archives
>
>
> >
> > mel. if someone has answered this directly to you, please share it. if
> > not, can someone please give us directions?
> > tia, norm
> >
> > mel wrote:
> >
> > > Could someone give me the archives address.
> > >
> > > Thanks
> > >
> > > Mel Brunet
> > > 67 BJ8
> > > mel5@mindspring.com
> >
> >
>
>
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 19:10:09 EDT
Subject: Re: Archives
In a message dated 08/22/2000 6:01:14 PM Central Daylight Time, WilKo@aol.com
writes:
<< Almost said that myself. >>
Thanks. 'nuff said!! Geeesh!
Ed
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 19:55:11 EDT
Subject: Re: 18 coats of lacquer
Once paint shows cracks, the only way to fix it is to go down to bare metal
and start over. You can try to touch up a damaged area, but the spot must go
to the bare metal. Laquer is brittle. On flexible panels it will crack.
That is why I never recommend it, though today's acrlylic laquers (if still
available) might be more flexible. After many coats, it is best to take it
all off and start over. The thicker paint is, the easier it will crack or
chip. Thinner is better.
Roger
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 19:28:54 -0500
Subject: Re: 18 coats of lacquer
Roger.... I like a little more paint.... it allows for Buffing... which I
have to do.... now if you check out the Camaro in Hot Rod you will see that
the paint work is Pretty fair for a Gravel Driveway and a Non HVLP gun....
the key to success here is knowing how to color sand and buff with the
correct stages of grit.... just buy a system at your local Paint store...
I mean come on folks what is the worst that could Happen.... you would have
to do it over? Geez at least you can say you did it yourself....
Keith ( Yes I have Painted all my cars.... several folks here on the List
have seen the Hundred and can attest to the quality of my Buffing ... but
it's absolutely something anyone can do if your willing to spend the time..)
----- Original Message -----
From: <Rmoment@aol.com>
To: <bob.judd@quokka.com>; <ah102@home.com>; <normcay@earthlink.net>;
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2000 6:55 PM
Subject: Re: 18 coats of lacquer
>
> Once paint shows cracks, the only way to fix it is to go down to bare
metal
> and start over. You can try to touch up a damaged area, but the spot must
go
> to the bare metal. Laquer is brittle. On flexible panels it will crack.
> That is why I never recommend it, though today's acrlylic laquers (if
still
> available) might be more flexible. After many coats, it is best to take
it
> all off and start over. The thicker paint is, the easier it will crack or
> chip. Thinner is better.
>
> Roger
>
From LBCarNut <LBCarNut at carolina.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 21:10:59 -0400
Subject: Southeastern Classic XIV
Hi Folks,
I just joined the list and this is my first post. I am active in the
Carolinas AHC and have had a Bugeye for about three years and have just
purchased a 100-6 that I am trying to put get on the road as quickly as
possible.
I just wanted to post a reminder that Southeastern Classic registrations
are quickly filling up. It is being hosted by the Carolinas AHC, on
September 21-24 at Litchfield-by-the-Sea South Mrytle Beach SC. We have
over 75 registrations already, from as far away as Canada, Rhode Island
and Texas. For more info and registration forms go to
http://www.salisbury.net/cahc/SEClassic.htm
There will be a Rally, Funkhana, and Gymkhana on Friday, A popular car
show on Saturday, as well as a Healey sand sculpture competition on the
beach. Plus other activities.
Hope to see some of you there.
Thanks,
Peter Samaroo
Charlotte NC
59 AN5
59 BN4
From dyaarl at mediaone.net
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 10:57:03 -0400
Subject: ahlogo2
Can anyone on the list give me the address of a business that makes
club logo grill badges.
Thanks Dyaarl
From JohnbS7257 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 21:21:37 EDT
Subject: Re: 18 coats of lacquer
Keith,
Saw you on Speedvision the other day. Nice car and fast.
John Stevens
"Ruby" BJ8 27621
JohnbS7257@aol.com
From Mr Finespanner <mrfinespanner at blazenet.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 22:25:07 -0700
Subject: Re: Competition Shock Valves
Andrew,
The uprated shock valve is effective in increasing the damper rate - so
is replacing the shock oil with a heavier viscosity oil, such as
motorcycle shock oil. Either way, the ride will be sligthly more
jarring.
You didn't say why you want to do this - there is a lot that you can do
to improve the handling of a Healey and the shocks are only a part of the
equation. If you want to get into details, contact me offline.
Del Border
Tri-Carb OO
Andrew Shrimpton wrote:
> Maybe if I get the name right I'll get a response! What I referred to
> as dampers are actually Armstrong shock valves, for installing into
> the lever arm shocks. These were apparently used by the Works cars.
>
> As before, any comments on their effectiveness would be appreciated.
>
> Andrew Shrimpton
> BT7
> New Zealand
From Mr Finespanner <mrfinespanner at blazenet.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 22:51:36 -0700
Subject: Re: Further throttle linkage question.
John,
I wrote to this list several months ago answering this same question. My
response then was that many people were probably not getting full throttle
opening when the gas pedal is fully depressed, especially on the tri-carb models
due to the "Rube Goldgerg" linkage.
You should be able to adjust the linkage so that the throttles are full open
when
the gas pedal is fully depressed. The throttle discs are very easy to observe
with the dashpots and pistons removed. It is also one of the checks that I
perform every spring..
Owners of tri-carbs may have to "cheat" on the idle setting to get full
butterfly
opening at full throttle since they have no idle screws.
As for your engine still being capable of "revving way past redline" even
though
your throttles do not open completely, with full throttle opening, it'll do it
in
less time.
Del Border
Tri-Carb OO
MOWOGMAN@aol.com wrote:
> I seem to have the throttle linkage close to sorted out on the '60 BT7 thanks
> to a very helpful lister!, (thanks, John!)
> But I seek further knowledge.
> Does anyone know if if there throttles really open up all the way, when the
> gas pedal is depressed all the way? In other words mine do not, but the
> engine is perfectly capable of revving way past redline (not that I did this,
> you can just tell) You could easily check this by having friend push pedal
> to floor (with engine off) and look at linkage to see if it is against carb
> body stops.
>
> thanks for any insights!
>
> John
> Oostburg, WI
> '60 BT7
> '60 Mini
> '80 TR7 (freshly repainted Carmine red!)
> '69 AA
> '57 Isetta
> Etc.
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 23:06:46 EDT
Subject: Re: early BN1 "U" bolts
Roger i have some of these in our used parts inventoriy
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>Br
itishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 00:30:08 EDT
Subject: Re: ahlogo2
In a message dated 8/22/00 6:18:25 PM, dyaarl@mediaone.net writes:
<< Can anyone on the list give me the address of a business that makes
club logo grill badges.
Thanks Dyaarl >>
I'm interested as well, for concours badges. Liked the badges that were made
up for the Conclave in Michigan.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 00:40:24 EDT
Subject: Car Sold at RM
Regarding the BJ8 that was sold at RM auctions (the "wrong-color" one).
I checked their catalog today for the serial number of that car. Turns out
it is one of the very few early Phase 2 cars made after they had changed the
frame to provide additional clearance (the distinguishing feature between
early BJ8s and Phase 2 BJ8s) but before they had changed from single to
separate signal and side lights in front and indicator and brake/tail lights
in the rear. These cars had combination lights in front and rear, but used
the same plastic lenses as the later cars. They also still had a reflector
above the brake/signal light on the rear shroud.
So the lighting equipment was as original. It still wasn't a very impressive
car and, at $29,000 got "all the money" it deserved.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From gonzo18 at primenet.com (Ray Juncal)
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 22:06:35 -0700 (MST)
Subject: Laguna Seca McDonalds
I stopped by late 10:25 no obvious Healey types in view. I however
was easy to spot, riding a silver mountain bike wearing a" Bun Boy" t-shirt
and an orange back pack with a large "BLIMEY" patch sewn on it. I thought
about yelling out Austin Healey just to see whose hand went up but went
over to the 100-S pit instead. I met Ken Freese (sp?) and had a nice chat.
Sorry I missed you guys lets try again next year.
Healey on
Ray Juncal
Toot toot!
From David Neale <dneale at pacbell.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 21:03:31 -0700
Subject: Re: Lacquer vrs Urethane in Bay Area
New paint job for the BN7.
I have just learned that lacquer is banned in the 7 Bay area counties. Any
suggestions about ensuring a solid (no orange peel) good looking paint job
using urethane or should I consider moving!
Also looking for tips on matching the orignal primrose yellow colour.
Thanks
DAVID NEALE
60 BN7
67 BJ8
From "Russ & Natalie Bamsey" <ia549 at worldchat.com>
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 22:45:11 -0400
Subject: Re: Competition Shock Dampers
Hello Andrew and Listers;
Save your money, don`t buy the uprated valves but change the shock
fluid to 30wt hydraulic oil instead. The thicker oil will increase the
resistance about 25% and only becomes a problem if you will be driving in
sub zero weather. Any time you increase the resistance of your shock you
will be increasing the pressure on the frame and shock mounts so be sure
that they can handle it.
Good Luck...Russ Bamsey
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 05:51:39 -0500
Subject: Re: ahlogo2
dyaarl and gary-
try sre pins po box 6369 burbank, ca 91510-6369 email jims@lapelpins.com
jerry wall
----- Original Message -----
From: Editorgary@aol.com
To: dyaarl@mediaone.net, healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: ahlogo2
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 00:30:08 EDT
In a message dated 8/22/00 6:18:25 PM, dyaarl@mediaone.net writes:
<< Can anyone on the list give me the address of a business that makes
club logo grill badges.
Thanks Dyaarl >>
I'm interested as well, for concours badges. Liked the badges that were made
up for the Conclave in Michigan.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 12:57:14 -0400
Subject: Re: Laguna Seca Meet at McDonalds
Don't know about you left coasters. In the east, the Healey guy is always
the one with the good looking babe.
Lee
'62 BT7 Tri-carb
>We are difficult to pin down aren't we. Is the Healey owner the bearded
guy
>with the flannel shirt? Is he the guy with the leather jacket and the
>sunglasses? Or is he the freaky looking young dude with crazy hair and
>tie-dyed T shirt
From "Michael Lupynec" <mlupynec at globalserve.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 09:22:15 -0400
Subject: Re: Lacquer vrs Urethane in Bay Area
Lacquer banned? Does that include nail polish remover?
Mike L.
60A,67E,59Bug
----- Original Message -----
From: David Neale <dneale@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: August 23, 2000 12:03 AM
Subject: Re: Lacquer vrs Urethane in Bay Area
>
> New paint job for the BN7.
>
> I have just learned that lacquer is banned in the 7 Bay area
counties. Any
> suggestions about ensuring a solid (no orange peel) good looking
paint job
> using urethane or should I consider moving!
>
> Also looking for tips on matching the orignal primrose yellow
colour.
>
> Thanks
> DAVID NEALE
> 60 BN7
> 67 BJ8
>
>
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 09:28:42 -0400
Subject: BT7 interior question
Near where the top bow goes into the body there is an alum. cap screwed into
a wooden block. I have dimensions of the block (they were missing ) The
wooden block is wrapped in vinyl my question is what is the proper way to
wrap this piece? Like a present (with a v fold) or square cuts just
glued on.
TIA Carroll Phillips
From MBran89793 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 10:20:56 EDT
Subject: Re: BT7 interior question
In a message dated 8/23/00 9:34:47 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
bjcap@frontiernet.net writes:
<< The
wooden block is wrapped in vinyl my question is what is the proper way to
wrap this piece? Like a present (with a v fold) or square cuts just
glued on. >>
FYI
I have just examined an original "wooden block" from my HBT-7L 4934 and I
find the following example on this piece.
The pattern of the vinyl covering the wooden block should be in the form of a
cross. The center part covers the top and other parts are glued to the sides
and do not cover the bottom of the block.
The example below id very crude be I hope that you are able to able to
picture what I'm trying to get across. (The side pieces do not overlap.)
____
' '
' '
____ ' '____
' '
' '
'____ ____'
' '
' '
'____'
Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
President & Delegate of Tampa Bay Austin-Healey Club
Concours Committee Chairman- Judges & Judging
AHCA Liaison for Concours
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 09:00:45 -0700
Subject: Re: Lacquer vrs Urethane in Bay Area
No but it isn't the same nail polish remover that your momma used.
No more acetone, at least in my wife's polish remover.
-Roland
On Wed, 23 Aug 2000 09:22:15 -0400, you wrote:
::
:: Lacquer banned? Does that include nail polish remover?
::
:: Mike L.
:: 60A,67E,59Bug
::
:: ----- Original Message -----
:: From: David Neale <dneale@pacbell.net>
:: To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
:: Sent: August 23, 2000 12:03 AM
:: Subject: Re: Lacquer vrs Urethane in Bay Area
::
::
:: >
:: > New paint job for the BN7.
:: >
:: > I have just learned that lacquer is banned in the 7 Bay area
:: counties. Any
:: > suggestions about ensuring a solid (no orange peel) good looking
:: paint job
:: > using urethane or should I consider moving!
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 10:56:41 -0500
Subject: RE: Lacquer vrs Urethane in Bay Area
Hi David,
As a Bay Area resident also, I was forced to try out the modern urethanes
and I am very, very pleased with PPG's single-stage urethane (DCC). It has
excellent gloss and flow (with the reducer and hardener selected according
to ambient temperature) and can be compounded and polished in non-metallic
colors. It also allows for a 50-50 mix of clear in the final coat or can
be clear-coated. What is really nice about a single-stage is that the car
looks "right" as opposed to a base/clear.
As for matching Primrose, do you have an original section that can be
scanned for a match? If not, I have a DCC formulation made off a color
that is supposed to be a perfect match. The problem is that the factory
color varied depending on what they had at hand, so who's to say what's
exactly the right shade?
Regards,
Adnan
-----Original Message-----
From: David Neale [mailto:dneale@pacbell.net]
Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2000 9:04 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Lacquer vrs Urethane in Bay Area
New paint job for the BN7.
I have just learned that lacquer is banned in the 7 Bay area counties. Any
suggestions about ensuring a solid (no orange peel) good looking paint job
using urethane or should I consider moving!
Also looking for tips on matching the orignal primrose yellow colour.
Thanks
DAVID NEALE
60 BN7
67 BJ8
From LucasElec at aol.com
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 12:21:01 EDT
Subject: Re: ahlogo2
Strutt Your Stuff
Hillside NJ 1 800 942 8746
They did a great job on our club grill badges.
Jim French Louisville Kentucky
1967 Austin Healey BJ8 # 36865
From "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej at mossmotors.com>
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 09:23:09 -0700
Subject: RE: Competition Shock Dampers
I've souped up lever shocks on MGBs both ways and personally I have had a
little better luck with the valves. Occasionally I have had heavy oil blow
out the seals on the shocks after I have put it in. I've never had this
problem with the valves, even with some pretty questionable shocks. Having
said that, as long as the seals hold the shocks seem to work great with the
oil.
By the way, some people have tried using hyraulic jack oil in lever shocks.
Don't do it! It is not designed for the constant movement you will get with
shocks. If you want to do this use 30wt motorcycle fork oil.
-----Original Message-----
From: Russ & Natalie Bamsey [mailto:ia549@worldchat.com]
Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2000 7:45 PM
To: Andrew Shrimpton; Healey List
Subject: Re: Competition Shock Dampers
Hello Andrew and Listers;
Save your money, don`t buy the uprated valves but change the shock
fluid to 30wt hydraulic oil instead. The thicker oil will increase the
resistance about 25% and only becomes a problem if you will be driving in
sub zero weather. Any time you increase the resistance of your shock you
will be increasing the pressure on the frame and shock mounts so be sure
that they can handle it.
Good Luck...Russ Bamsey
From "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej at mossmotors.com>
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 09:25:49 -0700
Subject: RE: Laguna Seca Meet at McDonalds
Hmmm. I do seem to remember Tim Allen driving a Healey in the show. I
guess you're right!!
-----Original Message-----
From: Lee S. Mairs [mailto:lmairs@ix.netcom.com]
Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2000 9:57 AM
To: Healey
Subject: Re: Laguna Seca Meet at McDonalds
Don't know about you left coasters. In the east, the Healey guy is always
the one with the good looking babe.
Lee
'62 BT7 Tri-carb
>We are difficult to pin down aren't we. Is the Healey owner the bearded
guy
>with the flannel shirt? Is he the guy with the leather jacket and the
>sunglasses? Or is he the freaky looking young dude with crazy hair and
>tie-dyed T shirt
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 18:35:17 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Fwd: DLOCNA Newsletter List: 4 SP250's for sale in California
---- you wrote:
> Hello Fellow Members,
> Thanks to all who worked to make the rally a success. You can read all about
> it in the next newsletter. Thanks, also, to all of the people who contribute
> to the newsletter and have helped to make it a success. It is greatly
> appreciated.
>
> The following ad was relayed to me, and I thought it would be a great
> opportunity for the right person. I have no idea on condition or price, but
> if you wish to pursue it, please contact the person below. He is not a DLOCNA
> member.
>
> Bill McDowell
> Editor, DLOCNA
>
> <This email list is for The DLOCNA newsletter and is only used when items of
> immediate interest come to the editors. Mail shall not exceed one letter per
> month. If you wish to be removed from this list please send an email with
> the word "remove" to dlocna@aol.com>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> ----------------------------
> From: Melton01@email.msn.com
>
> >>> >> >I just found 4 cars in a warehouse. Owner will sell.
> >> >> >SP-250s I believe. They have been sitting for ~15 to 20 years.
> >> >> >Know anyone interested ? (one has a hard top.)
> >> >> >Better act fast, he is clearing out the warehouse.
> >> >> >
> >> >> >Chuck
>
> >No contact info. This old guy sold his business, and is clearing out. I
> >only met a worker who told me about the seller. It's down the road
> >from my relatives, and the seller didn't have a phone number. Do you
> >have a club member in the San Francisco Bay Area I could turn this
> >over to ?
> >
> >Chuck
>
>
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From "Phil Nase" <pnase at enter.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 19:23:38 -0400
Subject: Re: ahlogo2
I believe an East Coast company called "Triple C" from York, PA is making
the badges shown for sale from at least one National British Car parts
supplier. I can't find their phone number. I'm sure another lister can get
it for the list.
Phil Nase
Quakertown, PA
----- Original Message -----
From: <dyaarl@mediaone.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2000 10:57 AM
Subject: ahlogo2
>
> Can anyone on the list give me the address of a business that makes
> club logo grill badges.
>
> Thanks Dyaarl
>
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 16:57:21 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Steering Box?
After a long drive and a fun weekend in Monterey I
have resolved myself to rebuiling the front end. The
problem that I am trying to solve is excessive play in
the steering wheel which is amplified at high speeds.
At speeds over 80 the car floats on a pretty large
dead spot(2" of steering wheel travel). I know it will
never be rack and pinion, but it shouldn't feel
dangerous.
By rocking the wheel back and forth I find that most
of the play is in the steering output shaft as it
clunks back and forth in the bushing (and yes it
leaks). I can actually see the output shaft move off
center as the load changes. Tie rod ends and ball
joints don't seem to be the problem, although they are
old and will probably get replaced anyway. Front
hubs, and wheels are new. The idler is ok. Shocks
probably need rebuilding, so I am planning to send
them to Apple (all four).
Back to the steering box. Would it be reasonable to
assume that I can replace the bearings, seals and
peg/roller and achieve the desired results, or do most
of you find that the cam gear is the problem. And if
that is that case is a rebuilt box available and the
most cost effective approach? I haven't been down
this path, so any help is appreciated.
Thanks
Dean - BN7 LHD Non-Adjustable Steering Wheel
__________________________________________________
Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!
http://mail.yahoo.com/
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 20:20:24 EDT
Subject: Re: ahlogo2
In a message dated 8/23/00 4:25:43 PM, pnase@enter.net writes:
<<
I believe an East Coast company called "Triple C" from York, PA is making
the badges shown for sale from at least one National British Car parts
supplier. I can't find their phone number. I'm sure another lister can get
it for the list.
Phil Nase
Quakertown, PA >>
Don't think Triple C makes any of their grille badges. I beleive they only
make logo clothing. All their hard goods are sourced from other suppliers,
usually from England.
CheersGary
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 20:27:07 EDT
Subject: Re: ahlogo2
In a message dated 8/23/00 4:25:43 PM Pacific Daylight Time, pnase@enter.net
writes
Their Web site is www.triple-c.com
John
100-Six Erika the Red
<<
I believe an East Coast company called "Triple C" from York, PA is making
the badges shown for sale from at least one National British Car parts
supplier. I can't find their phone number. I'm sure another lister can get
it for the list.
Phil Nase
Quakertown, PA
>>
From MOWOGMAN at aol.com
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 21:18:34 EDT
Subject: Jensen workers mark on shrouds?
While prepping my shrouds for paint I noticed what would appear to be stamps
in the aluminum noting the assembler/welder/lot/job/etc from Jensen? They
are an about 3/8" in diameter circle with the letters JNSN inside it, going
around the ID of the circle,and a number, which on mine is 28 on the front of
the front shroud. On the rear of the front shroud is the same mark, but I
can't make out the number, and on the rear shroud, on the lower trunk opening
lip is the same mark, with a faint "8". Anybody else ever notice these?,
and is that what they really are?
John
Oostburg, WI
'60 BT7
'60 Mini
'80 TR7 (freshly repainted Carmine red!)
'69 AA
'57 Isetta
Etc.
From MOWOGMAN at aol.com
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 21:39:56 EDT
Subject: Nasty Jensen Healey for sale in WI
There is a nasty looking Jensen Healey for sale in Hilbert, WI. No idea of
the price, can get the phone number if anyone is interested.
It used to be some turquise color. It has rust, it also has special floor
ventilation ports (rust). It also has special engine features like the fan
and the timing cover operate remotely from the front seat! It's pretty sad.
Let me know if anyone cares.
John
Oostburg, WI
'60 BT7
'60 Mini
'80 TR7 (freshly repainted Carmine red!)
'69 AA
'57 Isetta
Etc.
From SHOMWAY at aol.com
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 21:47:08 EDT
Subject: Re: ahlogo2
I just received the latest issue of the Six Pack( Triumph TR6 TR250 Car Club
) magazine. In this issue they are looking to create a grill badge for the
club and gave its members various choices of badges to vote on. They have
located a company in Burbank Calif. called SRS that can produce the badge for
roughly $25. Perhaps someone from the west coast can locate this company as
no address or phone number was given. Good Luck
Gordie Swart
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 22:09:18 -0400
Subject: re re int block
Marion,
Thank you for the info. Was that last line an intended pun ?
happy healeying
Carroll
From "Jorge Lozano" <jmlozano at ismi.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 22:38:55 -0400
Subject: New purchase
Greetings,
I am brand new to the list. I bought a 1960 BT7 in May of this year. Not
knowing very much about Healeys, the car looks pretty good to me and to the
mechanic that looked at the car.
Now here is my dilemma/conflict. The car sits in a friend's garage until my
new garage is finished. I have driven the car maybe 3 times for no more
than 10 miles total. My friend loves me now, not as much as the car, for
letting him drive it everywhere. I don't mind him driving the car, on the
contrary, I enjoy seeing him having fun with it and saying how many looks he
gets when he is driving it. (I should also mentioned that he owns a Ferrari
355 Spyder, so you would think that he is used to being stared at.)
My problem is that I don't feel safe in the car. I am used to having bolts
hold my wheels in place, not knock-offs. And also a little wider tire than
the bicycle tires I have in the car now. My wife also likes the car a lot,
but with my concerns I don't let her drive the car much. MMmmhh..... I am
starting to realize that I don't care enough about my friend.
I guess what I need to appease my concerns is a routine inspection that I
can do to make sure that everything that can fall off only does it when I
want it to.
Please somebody give me a good sell pitch so I can start enjoying my car!
Jorge
P.S. Does anyone know what day and time the Detroit Healey Club meets at
Duggan's
From BRUCE48127 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 23:35:42 EDT
Subject: Re: New purchase
The South East Michigan Austin Healey Club meets at Duggans the second
Wednesday of the month at 7:00 PM (lower level north room).
Bruce Gearns
Dearborn Heights, MI
From "Andy King" <healey-100 at hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 18:27:39 -1000
Subject: Re: New purchase
With some modifications at the Bonneville salt flats Donald Healey took a
Healey to around 206 mph "with skinny tires" . I think he was in his forties
at the time, but of coarse he had English blood flowing thru his veins!. By
the way when it comes to English blood did I mention I'm running a 50/50 mix
myself! and 50% of Donald's speed is about all I'd want to do under safe
conditions in a Healey, at that speed they do float a bit like a boat.
Healeys have more than proven themselves all over the world but are a
little weak on that new car feel, cause they and their technology are not
new. However you could not own a better car in my heavily biased opinion.
Aloha Andy King
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jorge Lozano" <jmlozano@ismi.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 23, 2000 4:38 PM
Subject: New purchase
>
> Greetings,
>
> I am brand new to the list. I bought a 1960 BT7 in May of this year. Not
> knowing very much about Healeys, the car looks pretty good to me and to
the
> mechanic that looked at the car.
> Now here is my dilemma/conflict. The car sits in a friend's garage until
my
> new garage is finished. I have driven the car maybe 3 times for no more
> than 10 miles total. My friend loves me now, not as much as the car, for
> letting him drive it everywhere. I don't mind him driving the car, on the
> contrary, I enjoy seeing him having fun with it and saying how many looks
he
> gets when he is driving it. (I should also mentioned that he owns a
Ferrari
> 355 Spyder, so you would think that he is used to being stared at.)
>
> My problem is that I don't feel safe in the car. I am used to having
bolts
> hold my wheels in place, not knock-offs. And also a little wider tire
than
> the bicycle tires I have in the car now. My wife also likes the car a
lot,
> but with my concerns I don't let her drive the car much. MMmmhh..... I am
> starting to realize that I don't care enough about my friend.
>
> I guess what I need to appease my concerns is a routine inspection that I
> can do to make sure that everything that can fall off only does it when I
> want it to.
>
> Please somebody give me a good sell pitch so I can start enjoying my car!
>
> Jorge
>
> P.S. Does anyone know what day and time the Detroit Healey Club meets at
> Duggan's
>
From JXLmail at aol.com
Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 01:16:14 EDT
Subject: Re: Monterey Historics
All,
I can not thank all of the folks on the list, enough for ginving me the info
to make my visit to the Monterey Historics such a great time. I arrived at
the track on Saturday at around 7:30AM and left at around 8:30 PM. I took
alot of photos of the 100S parked and racing on the track. It's white over
blue paint really jumps in deep evening light. Also I shot alot of other
british and italian sports cars. I will have to order a program so that I
can identify the cars. I met and had a photo taken of me and Normand Dewis
standing next to a C-type Jag that he raced that day. While photographing a
1950s Italian Grand prx car I was offered and took the race car for a drive
around the paddock (never reliazed how different the gas, clutch and brake
pedal positions were).
I cannot tell you how many people said when I was setting up my camera, "if
you need to just go ahead and roll the race car anywhere you want". Often I
would roll a very expensive car a few feet to get the sun, shadows and
background right. Owners and mechanics would go out of their way, everyone
was very friendly. When taking a photo of a Aston Martin DB1R (I think, sea
green, white numbers, yellow nose) a member of the crew removed all of the
modern cleanning bottles and stuff so that nothing in the background of the
photo would give you an indication of the era.
Sunday morning I drove to Pebble beach but is was already crowded. So I
returned to the track and had another great day. Over the two days I ran into
several guys from the Healey list. I took 50 4x5 Fuji velvia color slides and
50 black and whites.
That is alot of photos for large format film.
Thanks all
Jim L.
56 BN2
From "Keith R. Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 01:32:48 -0400
Subject: Speedo reading high
Hi Listers!
I know not whether the speedo which came with my BN7 was working when I
got the car as it was not driveable. Since more or less completing the
resto about a year ago the speedo has always read 15-20 high.
Recently I decided to do something so I sent the very nice in appearance
speedo to Nisongers. I talked to the technician today and he says it is
maybe 1 mph high at 30 and 3 mph high at 60 according to his test
machine. He verified from its number that it was correct for an early
3000 with OD and the cable should rotate 980 times/mile. We decided to
do nothing to it and just ship it back.
He also gave me some info to test the the cable drive output:
1 It should protrude no more than 7/16 beyond the sleeve. Checked that
and it is 3/8.
2 He said lay off a distance of 52'9". Place a piece of tape on the end
of the cable drive. If it is correct, there should be 9.8 rotations in
traveling the distance. I got 12.6. Interestingly, this equates to 77
mph at 60 mph - approximately the 15-20 high I have observed with the
speedo in use.
Now to the Q. What could be causing my high rotations of the cable and
thus, the high reading of the speedo?
Thanks for listening
Keith Pennell
From "Josef Eckert" <Josef.Eckert at t-mobil.de> (Tel +49 228/936-7630)
Date: 24 Aug 2000 07:17:33 +0000
Subject: September Trip to Europe (England)
I know 30 to 40 "American"-Healeys with their owners will have a visit to
England and Europe-Mainland next Month. There are planned meetings with the
English-AHC at Gaydon-Museum (9th/10th September, organized by Mell Ward) and
Perranporth. I will be at Gaydon on the 10th. Is one of the listers with that
Healey-Invasion to meet at Gaydon? Please let me know. My e-mail:
josef.eckert@t-mobil.de
Josef Eckert, Germany
54 BN1, 62 BT7, Spr III, SP250
From "STEPHEN JOWETT" <enquiries at ukhealey.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 09:41:39 +0100
Subject: Re: Steering Box?
Dean
Having re-built many of these boxes I think you will find the lower bush is
the main source of play. If you can see the movement of the rocker shaft in
the bush it must be well worn.
The worms don't normally wear too much but check the bearing seat ground at
each end of the worm. They can be pitted which would give a rough feel to
the steering.
The lower bush can be pushed out and replaced. It has to be reamed to suit
the shaft. If the shaft is badly worn or pitted it could be built up and
re-ground by an engineering shop. Fit a new oil seal after reaming and check
the front and rear bearings and races.
I find using Penrite steering box lube sorts out the leaks.
If you do the box, I should take the idler off and make sure that is up to
scratch at the same time.
Steve Jowett UK HEALEY
www.ukhealey.co.uk
From Herman Farrer <herman at hfphoto.com>
Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 09:06:44 -0400
Subject: Re: Speedo reading high
>2 He said lay off a distance of 52'9". Place a piece of tape on the end
>of the cable drive. If it is correct, there should be 9.8 rotations in
>traveling the distance. I got 12.6. Interestingly, this equates to 77
>mph at 60 mph - approximately the 15-20 high I have observed with the
>speedo in use.
>
>Now to the Q. What could be causing my high rotations of the cable and
>thus, the high reading of the speedo?
>
Keith,
I just went through the same thing with my speedo. I got 9.75 turns
on my BJ8 where 10 is the correct number. Checking the speedo over a
measured mile, it indicated about a 1-2 mph faster that the actual
speed. Preety good in my opinion.
What size tires are you using? Different tire sizes from standard
will give different results. Also, have you checked your cable for
excessive wear/flex? Gripping each end and twisting in opposite
directions should yield only a 1/2 turn. My 55K mile cable had about
two turns and was replaced. Another possible problem area would be
your right angle drive.
FYI, I was told never to use a graphite based lubricant on the cable.
I can damage the internal speedo mechanism. Stick with a white
lithium grease and don't over do it.
Herman
From AGOrendi at aol.com
Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 09:41:38 EDT
Subject: Re: Bilstein Kit driving
Hi folks,
what is the right tire pressure for 165/SR 15 on a 100/6?
Regards...Andreas Orendi
100/6 BN6, 1958
From "Ross Maylor" <obiedog at telusplanet.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 07:36:09 -0600
Subject: Re: Canada Import Duties
In Canada parts for cars that are 25 years and older do not receive a duty
charge. I you have been charged then you can reclcaim it. In the future just
ask your shipper to state that on the parcel and it will be duty free. Now
if we could only find away around the Goods and Services Tax.
> >
> > "Why would a Canadian have to pay import duties on something
> > originating
> > within the United Kingdom??" you ask.
> >
> > Because there is no special trade relationship between Britain and
> > Canada or most other former colonies/commonwealth countries. Britain
> > is
> > part of the EU and bugger everyone else. And Canada charges duties
> > on
> > stuff no matter where it comes from, including NAFTA countries!
> >
From Ed Santoro <esantoro at drbc.state.nj.us>
Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 09:52:20 -0700
Subject: Re: New purchase
Jorge: In my opinion, most of the charm of a healey is the "Danger Factor" and
the second most are the cars' idiosyncrasies (some of which are cool and others
are frustrating!). Although many people have the car worked on by formal
mechanics. there is no substitute to doing as many things for yourself as you
can. There are a number of repair manuals for these cars. You should take the
car out for longer and longer trips to build up your comfort level. I take my
BN4 on very long trips, But only those trips where I am not tied to a
timetable. As for the tire size, I've never had a problem (Watch for bumps in
the road!!). If you drive the car for any length of time you will become an
expert at gauging the height of lumps in the road! Prior to heading out with
the car you need to develop a routine! The car was made in a pre computer- pre
idiot light era, where prior to embarking on a trip all fluids are checked and
topped off, knockoffs checked for tightness (Buy the way there is an
appropriate side for each knockoff!) etcetera. Club sponsored drives will help
allay your fears (with trial and triumphs come friendship!) If you want to talk,
contact me off the list and we can exchange phone ##s. Take care and enjoy the
car! EDS
Jorge Lozano wrote:
> Greetings,
>
> I am brand new to the list. I bought a 1960 BT7 in May of this year. Not
> knowing very much about Healeys, the car looks pretty good to me and to the
> mechanic that looked at the car.
> Now here is my dilemma/conflict. The car sits in a friend's garage until my
> new garage is finished. I have driven the car maybe 3 times for no more
> than 10 miles total. My friend loves me now, not as much as the car, for
> letting him drive it everywhere. I don't mind him driving the car, on the
> contrary, I enjoy seeing him having fun with it and saying how many looks he
> gets when he is driving it. (I should also mentioned that he owns a Ferrari
> 355 Spyder, so you would think that he is used to being stared at.)
>
> My problem is that I don't feel safe in the car. I am used to having bolts
> hold my wheels in place, not knock-offs. And also a little wider tire than
> the bicycle tires I have in the car now. My wife also likes the car a lot,
> but with my concerns I don't let her drive the car much. MMmmhh..... I am
> starting to realize that I don't care enough about my friend.
>
> I guess what I need to appease my concerns is a routine inspection that I
> can do to make sure that everything that can fall off only does it when I
> want it to.
>
> Please somebody give me a good sell pitch so I can start enjoying my car!
>
> Jorge
>
> P.S. Does anyone know what day and time the Detroit Healey Club meets at
> Duggan's
From "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej at mossmotors.com>
Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 07:30:05 -0700
Subject: RE: New purchase
Be sure to check the splines on your hubs and wheels. The teeth on the
splines should be nice and pointy not flattened off at the top. If you find
a worn hub I would recommend replacing both the wheel and hub. They do wear
out together. Also check the threads on the hub and the knockoff itself for
any faults or cracks. When you are done checking things out go out and
drive the car.
If you have any history books on Austin Healeys (or most other british cars)
look at the section where they talk about the competition cars. These cars
are doing very stupid things at tremendous speeds on wheels just like yours
and tires that are not as good as anything available now. Despite their
somwhat fragile appearance these cars are extremely robust and able to
handle anything you can throw at them. Remember that at one time people
drove these cars everyday and on weekends drove them to the racetrack and
raced them. If the car is in good condition there is no reason you can't
continue in that tradition. My MGB has the best part of 300,000 miles on it
and I wouldn't hesitate to drive it across the country. I hope to get my
Healey in just as reliable shape. British cars rule, drive the hell out of
them, they'll love you for it.
Jonathan Lane
60 BN7
71 MGB-GT
66 MGB
-----Original Message-----
From: Jorge Lozano [mailto:jmlozano@ismi.net]
Sent: Wednesday, August 23, 2000 7:39 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: New purchase
Greetings,
I am brand new to the list. I bought a 1960 BT7 in May of this year. Not
knowing very much about Healeys, the car looks pretty good to me and to the
mechanic that looked at the car.
Now here is my dilemma/conflict. The car sits in a friend's garage until my
new garage is finished. I have driven the car maybe 3 times for no more
than 10 miles total. My friend loves me now, not as much as the car, for
letting him drive it everywhere. I don't mind him driving the car, on the
contrary, I enjoy seeing him having fun with it and saying how many looks he
gets when he is driving it. (I should also mentioned that he owns a Ferrari
355 Spyder, so you would think that he is used to being stared at.)
My problem is that I don't feel safe in the car. I am used to having bolts
hold my wheels in place, not knock-offs. And also a little wider tire than
the bicycle tires I have in the car now. My wife also likes the car a lot,
but with my concerns I don't let her drive the car much. MMmmhh..... I am
starting to realize that I don't care enough about my friend.
I guess what I need to appease my concerns is a routine inspection that I
can do to make sure that everything that can fall off only does it when I
want it to.
Please somebody give me a good sell pitch so I can start enjoying my car!
Jorge
P.S. Does anyone know what day and time the Detroit Healey Club meets at
Duggan's
From "Blair L. Harber" <blharber at vaxxine.com>
Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 10:43:33 -0400
Subject: Re: Jensen workers mark on shrouds?
When I was prepping my shrouds for car #14 of the pre-production cars, I
found that the shrouds and fenders were originally painted on the underside with
a satin lustre black paint. When I stripped the paint with remover and a soft
plastic scraper, I found hand writing on the panels which was done with a red
and
black wax crayon type marker. The upper portion of the rear shroud had the
words
'Final' and 'Carter' written one above the other, and other areas had the name
'Fox' signed to them. Has anyone else had similar sightings?
Blair L. Harber
AHX-14 & 138031
MOWOGMAN@aol.com wrote:
> While prepping my shrouds for paint I noticed what would appear to be stamps
> in the aluminum noting the assembler/welder/lot/job/etc from Jensen? They
> are an about 3/8" in diameter circle with the letters JNSN inside it, going
> around the ID of the circle,and a number, which on mine is 28 on the front of
> the front shroud. On the rear of the front shroud is the same mark, but I
> can't make out the number, and on the rear shroud, on the lower trunk opening
> lip is the same mark, with a faint "8". Anybody else ever notice these?,
> and is that what they really are?
>
> John
> Oostburg, WI
> '60 BT7
> '60 Mini
> '80 TR7 (freshly repainted Carmine red!)
> '69 AA
> '57 Isetta
> Etc.
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 11:31:13 -0400
Subject: RE: Jensen workers mark on shrouds?
Final, Carter, Fox.... maybe Scully is under the bonnet... sounds like an
"X" file to me... Sorry couldn't resist.... ;-)
Steve
61 BN7
-----Original Message-----
From: Blair L. Harber [mailto:blharber@vaxxine.com]
Sent: Thursday, August 24, 2000 10:44 AM
To: MOWOGMAN@aol.com
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Jensen workers mark on shrouds?
When I was prepping my shrouds for car #14 of the pre-production cars, I
found that the shrouds and fenders were originally painted on the underside
with
a satin lustre black paint. When I stripped the paint with remover and a
soft
plastic scraper, I found hand writing on the panels which was done with a
red and
black wax crayon type marker. The upper portion of the rear shroud had the
words
'Final' and 'Carter' written one above the other, and other areas had the
name
'Fox' signed to them. Has anyone else had similar sightings?
Blair L. Harber
AHX-14 & 138031
MOWOGMAN@aol.com wrote:
> While prepping my shrouds for paint I noticed what would appear to be
stamps
> in the aluminum noting the assembler/welder/lot/job/etc from Jensen?
They
> are an about 3/8" in diameter circle with the letters JNSN inside it,
going
> around the ID of the circle,and a number, which on mine is 28 on the front
of
> the front shroud. On the rear of the front shroud is the same mark, but I
> can't make out the number, and on the rear shroud, on the lower trunk
opening
> lip is the same mark, with a faint "8". Anybody else ever notice these?,
> and is that what they really are?
>
> John
> Oostburg, WI
> '60 BT7
> '60 Mini
> '80 TR7 (freshly repainted Carmine red!)
> '69 AA
> '57 Isetta
> Etc.
From "the real Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 11:43:41 -0400
Subject: throttle linkage
John,
There should be a clearance of .020" - .025" between the throttle stops
on the butterfly shaft and the body of the carburettor when the gas pedal is
buried in the carpet. At that point the throttle is full open. If you set
your linkage so that the stops actually contact the carb body the resulting
backlash on the linkage when the pedal is floored can bust the little
plastic fitting on the intake manifold that holds the end of the linkage rod
coming forward from the firewall. This is not as much of a problem
on roadsters, but BJ7's and BJ8's with the longer linkage between firewall
and manifold can break the plastic piece fairly easily if improperly
set.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
MOWOGMAN@aol.com wrote:
> I seem to have the throttle linkage close to sorted out on the '60 BT7
thanks
> to a very helpful lister!, (thanks, John!)
> But I seek further knowledge.
> Does anyone know if if there throttles really open up all the way, when
the
> gas pedal is depressed all the way? In other words mine do not, but the
> engine is perfectly capable of revving way past redline (not that I did
this,
> you can just tell) You could easily check this by having friend push pedal
> to floor (with engine off) and look at linkage to see if it is against
carb
> body stops.
>
> thanks for any insights!
>
> John
> Oostburg, WI
> '60 BT7
From "the real Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 12:07:44 -0400
Subject: steering box
Dean,
>From you description of symptoms I would say that not only is the
steering shaft bushing in the bottom of the steering box shot but you
may have some significant wear on the shaft itself. So the solution to
that part of your problem would be to rebush the box and fit a new
replacement shaft if your's is badly worn, or build your original shaft
back up to standard diameter if a replacement shaft can't be found.
The peg and worm are probably not the problem unless your car had
significant front-end damage at some time. Once you are re-bushed
with a smooth steering shaft you should be able to set the adjustment
to remove the side-to-side play in the steering wheel. Please contact
me if you need help finding a rebuilder.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
>Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 16:57:21 -0700 (PDT)
>From: Dean Caccavo <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
>Subject: Steering Box?
>
>After a long drive and a fun weekend in Monterey I
>have resolved myself to rebuiling the front end. The
>problem that I am trying to solve is excessive play in
>the steering wheel which is amplified at high speeds.
>At speeds over 80 the car floats on a pretty large
>dead spot(2" of steering wheel travel). I know it will
>never be rack and pinion, but it shouldn't feel
>dangerous.
>By rocking the wheel back and forth I find that most
>of the play is in the steering output shaft as it
>clunks back and forth in the bushing (and yes it
>leaks). I can actually see the output shaft move off
>center as the load changes. Tie rod ends and ball
>joints don't seem to be the problem, although they are
>old and will probably get replaced anyway. Front
>hubs, and wheels are new. The idler is ok. Shocks
>probably need rebuilding, so I am planning to send
>them to Apple (all four).
>Back to the steering box. Would it be reasonable to
>assume that I can replace the bearings, seals and
>peg/roller and achieve the desired results, or do most
>of you find that the cam gear is the problem. And if
>that is that case is a rebuilt box available and the
>most cost effective approach? I haven't been down
>this path, so any help is appreciated.
>Thanks
>Dean - BN7 LHD Non-Adjustable Steering Wheel
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 12:17:35 EDT
Subject: Re: Bilstein Kit driving
In a message dated 8/24/00 6:43:27 AM, AGOrendi@aol.com writes:
<<
Hi folks,
what is the right tire pressure for 165/SR 15 on a 100/6?
Regards...Andreas Orendi
100/6 BN6, 1958 >>
I run 28 front and 30 rear for road use (radial tires).
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 12:26:35 EDT
Subject: Re: New purchase
In a message dated 8/24/00 6:53:11 AM, esantoro@drbc.state.nj.us writes:
<< I guess what I need to appease my concerns is a routine inspection that I
> can do to make sure that everything that can fall off only does it when I
> want it to. >>
I got a copy of the inspection list that was used on all the Healeys that
were transported to England this month for their tour, and I think a similar
list has been developed for the cars that are going to do the long European
tour. It was an excellent check list that any Healey should go through when
you first buy it or before you go off on long tours. Does anyone have a
version of one of these lists online for Jorge?
My advice -- DO NOT trust the mechanic to do it on his own. Either do it
yourself with a knowledgeable person helping you, or stand there and watch
the mechanic do it in your presence so you will know that everything was
done. ( On my Jag Mk2 on a 3000 mile tour last year, I lost a radiator in
Arizona and had to replace a set of tires because one mechanic didn't tighten
one screw, and another mechanic didn't realign the suspension after changing
shocks--had I been there, these might have gotten done properly).
Nevertheless, it will take you a little time to acquire confidence in your
new friend. But that confidence will come as you gain more knowledge and
experience. And, even then, the first four hours of any long trip are always
nerve-wracking until your friend convinces you that it is still all right and
dependable.
Cheers and have fun with the car.
Gary Anderson
Editor, British Car Magazine
Los Altos, CA
From Healybj8 at aol.com
Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 13:23:29 EDT
Subject: Re: Jensen workers mark on shrouds?
I have seen similar things written on other parts on the Healey. When I
removed my old rusty grile surround, the only part of it that wasn't rusted was
where someone had written "OK" on the top inside with green grease pencil. The
center console also has a similar "OK" written on the back with grease pencil.
Sure is good to know that my car is OK. ;o)
Tim Wallace
'67 BJ8
Fuquay-Varina, NC
In a message dated Thu, 24 Aug 2000 10:47:47 AM Eastern Daylight Time, "Blair
L. Harber" <blharber@vaxxine.com> writes:
<<
When I was prepping my shrouds for car #14 of the pre-production cars, I
found that the shrouds and fenders were originally painted on the underside with
a satin lustre black paint. When I stripped the paint with remover and a soft
plastic scraper, I found hand writing on the panels which was done with a red
and
black wax crayon type marker. The upper portion of the rear shroud had the
words
'Final' and 'Carter' written one above the other, and other areas had the name
'Fox' signed to them. Has anyone else had similar sightings?
Blair L. Harber
AHX-14 & 138031
MOWOGMAN@aol.com wrote:
> While prepping my shrouds for paint I noticed what would appear to be stamps
> in the aluminum noting the assembler/welder/lot/job/etc from Jensen? They
> are an about 3/8" in diameter circle with the letters JNSN inside it, going
> around the ID of the circle,and a number, which on mine is 28 on the front of
> the front shroud. On the rear of the front shroud is the same mark, but I
> can't make out the number, and on the rear shroud, on the lower trunk opening
> lip is the same mark, with a faint "8". Anybody else ever notice these?,
> and is that what they really are?
>
> John
> Oostburg, WI
> '60 BT7
> '60 Mini
> '80 TR7 (freshly repainted Carmine red!)
> '69 AA
> '57 Isetta
> Etc.
>>
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 13:40:30 -0400
Subject: Check List
How about sharing that with the list? I recently purchased my BT7, and I'd
love to have a check list for my car.
Lee
'62 BT7 Tri-carb
>I got a copy of the inspection list that was used on all the Healeys that
>were transported to England this month for their tour...
From "John Bumpus" <jbumpus at home.com>
Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 11:13:16 -0700
Subject: Hayden Fans
I'm looking for a Hayden Fan 3602 for my BJ8, Hayden no longer makes
them. Anyone know of any old stock kicking around and yes it does get
that hot in Canada
Thanks again Bumpy
From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 10:55:46 -0700
Subject: Re: New purchase
Having only recently acquired my '66 BJ8 in March, I too have had similar
fears and concerns as you. However, I have owned a restored MGA for the
last 15 years so I understand the temperamental nature of these
cobbled-together toys. Since March I have taken the Healey out on perhaps a
dozen Sunday drives, each a bit farther down the road. Except for an early
mishap (fried rear brake drum on the Altamont Pass) which was not the car's
fault, she hasn't let me down. These Big Healeys are unique beasts with
their own quirks and faults. I have to admit that I'm not yet totally
bonded to the car, but we're getting there. Advice: take a cell phone for
security and go for a drive. Enjoy your new friend. Randy
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 12:59:38 -0500
Subject: Re: New purchase
I don't Pretend to be the Subject Matter expert on Bonneville or Donald
Healey....
But I know that his Car was in fact a Streamliner which tremdously changes
the Downforce on the car... and they handle totally different then the
Factory Version of the car...
Donald's Blood... well the Man was a STUD as far as I am concerned.... 203
record in 1956 was awesome..... as for Skinny tires.... well My Back Tires
two weeks ago were 4.5" wide and I went 218 mph on them....
then I burnt a hole in a Piston and came home to finish the Rodeck and Go
BACK.... can't stand it... Don't really want to wait till next year....
Keith Turk ( the So Al Special... 100 .... Bugeye and to many Box Sprites
----- Original Message -----
From: "Andy King" <healey-100@hawaii.rr.com>
To: "Jorge Lozano" <jmlozano@ismi.net>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 23, 2000 11:27 PM
Subject: Re: New purchase
>
> With some modifications at the Bonneville salt flats Donald Healey took a
> Healey to around 206 mph "with skinny tires" . I think he was in his
forties
> at the time, but of coarse he had English blood flowing thru his veins!.
By
> the way when it comes to English blood did I mention I'm running a 50/50
mix
> myself! and 50% of Donald's speed is about all I'd want to do under safe
> conditions in a Healey, at that speed they do float a bit like a boat.
> Healeys have more than proven themselves all over the world but are a
> little weak on that new car feel, cause they and their technology are not
> new. However you could not own a better car in my heavily biased
opinion.
> Aloha Andy King
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jorge Lozano" <jmlozano@ismi.net>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, August 23, 2000 4:38 PM
> Subject: New purchase
>
>
> >
> > Greetings,
> >
> > I am brand new to the list. I bought a 1960 BT7 in May of this year.
Not
> > knowing very much about Healeys, the car looks pretty good to me and to
> the
> > mechanic that looked at the car.
> > Now here is my dilemma/conflict. The car sits in a friend's garage
until
> my
> > new garage is finished. I have driven the car maybe 3 times for no more
> > than 10 miles total. My friend loves me now, not as much as the car,
for
> > letting him drive it everywhere. I don't mind him driving the car, on
the
> > contrary, I enjoy seeing him having fun with it and saying how many
looks
> he
> > gets when he is driving it. (I should also mentioned that he owns a
> Ferrari
> > 355 Spyder, so you would think that he is used to being stared at.)
> >
> > My problem is that I don't feel safe in the car. I am used to having
> bolts
> > hold my wheels in place, not knock-offs. And also a little wider tire
> than
> > the bicycle tires I have in the car now. My wife also likes the car a
> lot,
> > but with my concerns I don't let her drive the car much. MMmmhh..... I
am
> > starting to realize that I don't care enough about my friend.
> >
> > I guess what I need to appease my concerns is a routine inspection that
I
> > can do to make sure that everything that can fall off only does it when
I
> > want it to.
> >
> > Please somebody give me a good sell pitch so I can start enjoying my
car!
> >
> > Jorge
> >
> > P.S. Does anyone know what day and time the Detroit Healey Club meets
at
> > Duggan's
> >
>
>
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 14:15:18 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: RE: New purchase
Sorry to differ with you,Jonathan, But -
The splines should be slightly Rounded or slightly Flat on top. That's the way
they are when they are new.
If the splines on the Hubs are Pointy they are Worn - if they are Pointy and
also slightly Concave on the side away from the normal driving/thrust side (or
in the case of Front Hubs, the side Opposite the direction of rotation), they
are Dangerously Worn and should be replaced.
Worn hubs are caused by slippage between the Hub and the Wheel and the wear
occurs to Both elements - so on any Hub that is Worn and therefore Replaced,
the corresponding Wheel should also be replaced.
If a Front wheel spins due to worn splines it will un-tighten the knockoff and
the wheel will spin off. This will usually happen during Braking and is
Extremely Dangerous.
If a Rear Wheel spins due to worn splines you won't transmit any power - you
may not leave your garage. <G>
DickB
---- you wrote:
>
> Be sure to check the splines on your hubs and wheels. The teeth on the
> splines should be nice and pointy not flattened off at the top. If you find
> a worn hub I would recommend replacing both the wheel and hub. They do wear
> out together. Also check the threads on the hub and the knockoff itself for
> any faults or cracks. When you are done checking things out go out and
> drive the car.
>
> If you have any history books on Austin Healeys (or most other british cars)
> look at the section where they talk about the competition cars. These cars
> are doing very stupid things at tremendous speeds on wheels just like yours
> and tires that are not as good as anything available now. Despite their
> somwhat fragile appearance these cars are extremely robust and able to
> handle anything you can throw at them. Remember that at one time people
> drove these cars everyday and on weekends drove them to the racetrack and
> raced them. If the car is in good condition there is no reason you can't
> continue in that tradition. My MGB has the best part of 300,000 miles on it
> and I wouldn't hesitate to drive it across the country. I hope to get my
> Healey in just as reliable shape. British cars rule, drive the hell out of
> them, they'll love you for it.
>
> Jonathan Lane
> 60 BN7
> 71 MGB-GT
> 66 MGB
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jorge Lozano [mailto:jmlozano@ismi.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, August 23, 2000 7:39 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: New purchase
>
>
>
> Greetings,
>
> I am brand new to the list. I bought a 1960 BT7 in May of this year. Not
> knowing very much about Healeys, the car looks pretty good to me and to the
> mechanic that looked at the car.
> Now here is my dilemma/conflict. The car sits in a friend's garage until my
> new garage is finished. I have driven the car maybe 3 times for no more
> than 10 miles total. My friend loves me now, not as much as the car, for
> letting him drive it everywhere. I don't mind him driving the car, on the
> contrary, I enjoy seeing him having fun with it and saying how many looks he
> gets when he is driving it. (I should also mentioned that he owns a Ferrari
> 355 Spyder, so you would think that he is used to being stared at.)
>
> My problem is that I don't feel safe in the car. I am used to having bolts
> hold my wheels in place, not knock-offs. And also a little wider tire than
> the bicycle tires I have in the car now. My wife also likes the car a lot,
> but with my concerns I don't let her drive the car much. MMmmhh..... I am
> starting to realize that I don't care enough about my friend.
>
> I guess what I need to appease my concerns is a routine inspection that I
> can do to make sure that everything that can fall off only does it when I
> want it to.
>
> Please somebody give me a good sell pitch so I can start enjoying my car!
>
> Jorge
>
> P.S. Does anyone know what day and time the Detroit Healey Club meets at
> Duggan's
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 14:22:06 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Firestone Tires - 8/24/00
Now that two weeks have passed since my Warning Post about Firestone Tires -
and the flurry of "you are a Communist" "You are just trying to build your law
practice" "Keep this garbage off List - it has No Automotive Content", both On
List and to me off-List, has died down,
I'd like to add this: (Those of you who think this is Not suitable for this
List can stop reading Now!)
Larry Wysocki asked me privately if I thought he should be concerned about the
Firestone Tires on his BJ7 and I replied that I wouldn't drive on Firestone
Tires of any tread design or size Until Firestone stopped stonewalling and
admitted to some specific design or manufacturing failures that could explain
the tread-separation problem.
As of this morning Firestone is STILL claiming ignorance, notwithstanding this
has been going on for nearly ten years. And they are STILL taking the position
that any testimony of poor or no inspection and shoddy manufacturing and
crappy materials is the whining of malcontented former employees or experts who
have a financial interest in "trashing" Firestone - notwithstanding those
experts were considered credible by Firestone when they were testifying FOR
Firestone, in at least one case several Hundred Times.
I happened to be in Chicago last week and the Chicago Tribune had a photo of a
rolled-over Explorer on the front page. The left rear tire was completely
shredded (and the caption stated that the passengers had been severely injured)
and the tire was identified as a FIRESTONE 760 - not an ATX, ATX2, or
WILDERNESS.
I certainly hope that None of you within the sound of this List is still
driving on Firestone tires - at the very least in your SUVs and Pick-ups (no
matter what size or tread design) - out of consideration for the lives and
safety of Others, even if you choose to play Russian Roulette with your own and
your family' lives..
(I might add that a year from now you may find that there is no Firestone Tire
& Rubber Company to stand behind their warranty and adjust normal claims)
DickB
----------------------------------------------------------------
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 14:22:12 EDT
Subject: Re: New purchase
With a lot of talk about how "tempermental" or "cobbled together" these cars
are, fear may be set into the heart of a new owner.
Actually, the only real issue is the age. These cars are really very simple
mechanically, so if you are any good at figuring out how something works (or
why it stopped working) and how to fix it, you can fix most anything on a
Healey. Almost all of the parts are off-the-shelf Austin parts and are pretty
much bomb proof.
Just make sure everything is structurally sound, clean and
adjusted/lubed/torqued etc. and the car should be fine.
Even things like tire pressure with a Healey are pretty much the same as with
any car. Follow the manufacturers recommendation, adjust to suit. ie;
Healey's a bit heavy, pretty even balance. like a frim ride, add a few pounds.
Enjoy the ride,
Rick
San Diego
From "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej at mossmotors.com>
Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 11:27:15 -0700
Subject: RE: New purchase
Yes, my use of the word "pointy" was in error. While they are somewhat
flattened or rounded at the peak from new, I have seen some that are
excessively flattened which is what I was trying to express. Sorry for any
confusion.
-----Original Message-----
From: dickb@cheerful.com [mailto:dickb@cheerful.com]
Sent: Thursday, August 24, 2000 11:15 AM
To: Lane, Jonathan; austin healey list
Subject: RE: New purchase
Sorry to differ with you,Jonathan, But -
The splines should be slightly Rounded or slightly Flat on top. That's the
way they are when they are new.
If the splines on the Hubs are Pointy they are Worn - if they are Pointy and
also slightly Concave on the side away from the normal driving/thrust side
(or in the case of Front Hubs, the side Opposite the direction of rotation),
they are Dangerously Worn and should be replaced.
Worn hubs are caused by slippage between the Hub and the Wheel and the wear
occurs to Both elements - so on any Hub that is Worn and therefore Replaced,
the corresponding Wheel should also be replaced.
If a Front wheel spins due to worn splines it will un-tighten the knockoff
and the wheel will spin off. This will usually happen during Braking and is
Extremely Dangerous.
If a Rear Wheel spins due to worn splines you won't transmit any power - you
may not leave your garage. <G>
DickB
---- you wrote:
>
> Be sure to check the splines on your hubs and wheels. The teeth on the
> splines should be nice and pointy not flattened off at the top. If you
find
> a worn hub I would recommend replacing both the wheel and hub. They do
wear
> out together. Also check the threads on the hub and the knockoff itself
for
> any faults or cracks. When you are done checking things out go out and
> drive the car.
>
> If you have any history books on Austin Healeys (or most other british
cars)
> look at the section where they talk about the competition cars. These
cars
> are doing very stupid things at tremendous speeds on wheels just like
yours
> and tires that are not as good as anything available now. Despite their
> somwhat fragile appearance these cars are extremely robust and able to
> handle anything you can throw at them. Remember that at one time people
> drove these cars everyday and on weekends drove them to the racetrack and
> raced them. If the car is in good condition there is no reason you can't
> continue in that tradition. My MGB has the best part of 300,000 miles on
it
> and I wouldn't hesitate to drive it across the country. I hope to get my
> Healey in just as reliable shape. British cars rule, drive the hell out
of
> them, they'll love you for it.
>
> Jonathan Lane
> 60 BN7
> 71 MGB-GT
> 66 MGB
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jorge Lozano [mailto:jmlozano@ismi.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, August 23, 2000 7:39 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: New purchase
>
>
>
> Greetings,
>
> I am brand new to the list. I bought a 1960 BT7 in May of this year. Not
> knowing very much about Healeys, the car looks pretty good to me and to
the
> mechanic that looked at the car.
> Now here is my dilemma/conflict. The car sits in a friend's garage until
my
> new garage is finished. I have driven the car maybe 3 times for no more
> than 10 miles total. My friend loves me now, not as much as the car, for
> letting him drive it everywhere. I don't mind him driving the car, on the
> contrary, I enjoy seeing him having fun with it and saying how many looks
he
> gets when he is driving it. (I should also mentioned that he owns a
Ferrari
> 355 Spyder, so you would think that he is used to being stared at.)
>
> My problem is that I don't feel safe in the car. I am used to having
bolts
> hold my wheels in place, not knock-offs. And also a little wider tire
than
> the bicycle tires I have in the car now. My wife also likes the car a
lot,
> but with my concerns I don't let her drive the car much. MMmmhh..... I am
> starting to realize that I don't care enough about my friend.
>
> I guess what I need to appease my concerns is a routine inspection that I
> can do to make sure that everything that can fall off only does it when I
> want it to.
>
> Please somebody give me a good sell pitch so I can start enjoying my car!
>
> Jorge
>
> P.S. Does anyone know what day and time the Detroit Healey Club meets at
> Duggan's
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 09:00:45 -0700
Subject: Re: Lacquer vrs Urethane in Bay Area
No but it isn't the same nail polish remover that your momma used.
No more acetone, at least in my wife's polish remover.
-Roland
On Wed, 23 Aug 2000 09:22:15 -0400, you wrote:
::
:: Lacquer banned? Does that include nail polish remover?
::
:: Mike L.
:: 60A,67E,59Bug
::
:: ----- Original Message -----
:: From: David Neale <dneale@pacbell.net>
:: To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
:: Sent: August 23, 2000 12:03 AM
:: Subject: Re: Lacquer vrs Urethane in Bay Area
::
::
:: >
:: > New paint job for the BN7.
:: >
:: > I have just learned that lacquer is banned in the 7 Bay area
:: counties. Any
:: > suggestions about ensuring a solid (no orange peel) good looking
:: paint job
:: > using urethane or should I consider moving!
From BGAHC at aol.com
Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 14:46:31 EDT
Subject: Re: New purchase
Gary,
If you could send me a copy I would be happy to put it online. My new website
has about sixty pages of stuff like that and it would fit right in next to
the spares to carry list and the pictures of babes in bikinis.
Jim Werner
In a message dated 8/24/00 12:28:47 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
Editorgary@aol.com writes:
>
> I got a copy of the inspection list that was used on all the Healeys that
> were transported to England this month for their tour, and I think a
similar
>
> list has been developed for the cars that are going to do the long
European
> tour. It was an excellent check list that any Healey should go through
when
>
> you first buy it or before you go off on long tours. Does anyone have a
> version of one of these lists online for Jorge
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
1957 BN4 Rally Car
1966 BJ8
From "Pagel, John" <John.Pagel at imotors.com>
Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 12:03:05 -0700
Subject: RE: New purchase
He's right, sharp splines are worn out, smooth normal profile
splines are good. Remember to grease them well when installing a wheel.
The grease acts as a cushion and keeps the splines from wearing.
I've had a ft spline let go on a steep down hill with a sharp turn
at the bottom, It was and experience I'll never forget. I had just
acquired the car and hadn't yet checked it over. The damage to the car was
minimal, the damage to my psyche was permanent, I still lift on downhill
lefthand turns on the racetrack.........
That was 15 years ago, right after that Bruce (British Wire Wheel)
bruised my credit card for 4 new hubs and 4 new Dayton wheels, I've kept
them well greased and the splines still look brand new. JP
-----Original Message-----
From: dickb@cheerful.com [mailto:dickb@cheerful.com]
Sent: Thursday, August 24, 2000 11:15 AM
To: Lane, Jonathan; austin healey list
Subject: RE: New purchase
Sorry to differ with you,Jonathan, But -
The splines should be slightly Rounded or slightly Flat on top. That's the
way they are when they are new.
If the splines on the Hubs are Pointy they are Worn - if they are Pointy and
also slightly Concave on the side away from the normal driving/thrust side
(or in the case of Front Hubs, the side Opposite the direction of rotation),
they are Dangerously Worn and should be replaced.
Worn hubs are caused by slippage between the Hub and the Wheel and the wear
occurs to Both elements - so on any Hub that is Worn and therefore Replaced,
the corresponding Wheel should also be replaced.
If a Front wheel spins due to worn splines it will un-tighten the knockoff
and the wheel will spin off. This will usually happen during Braking and is
Extremely Dangerous.
If a Rear Wheel spins due to worn splines you won't transmit any power - you
may not leave your garage. <G>
DickB
---- you wrote:
>
> Be sure to check the splines on your hubs and wheels. The teeth on the
> splines should be nice and pointy not flattened off at the top. If you
find
> a worn hub I would recommend replacing both the wheel and hub. They do
wear
> out together. Also check the threads on the hub and the knockoff itself
for
> any faults or cracks. When you are done checking things out go out and
> drive the car.
>
> If you have any history books on Austin Healeys (or most other british
cars)
> look at the section where they talk about the competition cars. These
cars
> are doing very stupid things at tremendous speeds on wheels just like
yours
> and tires that are not as good as anything available now. Despite their
> somwhat fragile appearance these cars are extremely robust and able to
> handle anything you can throw at them. Remember that at one time people
> drove these cars everyday and on weekends drove them to the racetrack and
> raced them. If the car is in good condition there is no reason you can't
> continue in that tradition. My MGB has the best part of 300,000 miles on
it
> and I wouldn't hesitate to drive it across the country. I hope to get my
> Healey in just as reliable shape. British cars rule, drive the hell out
of
> them, they'll love you for it.
>
> Jonathan Lane
> 60 BN7
> 71 MGB-GT
> 66 MGB
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jorge Lozano [mailto:jmlozano@ismi.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, August 23, 2000 7:39 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: New purchase
>
>
>
> Greetings,
>
> I am brand new to the list. I bought a 1960 BT7 in May of this year. Not
> knowing very much about Healeys, the car looks pretty good to me and to
the
> mechanic that looked at the car.
> Now here is my dilemma/conflict. The car sits in a friend's garage until
my
> new garage is finished. I have driven the car maybe 3 times for no more
> than 10 miles total. My friend loves me now, not as much as the car, for
> letting him drive it everywhere. I don't mind him driving the car, on the
> contrary, I enjoy seeing him having fun with it and saying how many looks
he
> gets when he is driving it. (I should also mentioned that he owns a
Ferrari
> 355 Spyder, so you would think that he is used to being stared at.)
>
> My problem is that I don't feel safe in the car. I am used to having
bolts
> hold my wheels in place, not knock-offs. And also a little wider tire
than
> the bicycle tires I have in the car now. My wife also likes the car a
lot,
> but with my concerns I don't let her drive the car much. MMmmhh..... I am
> starting to realize that I don't care enough about my friend.
>
> I guess what I need to appease my concerns is a routine inspection that I
> can do to make sure that everything that can fall off only does it when I
> want it to.
>
> Please somebody give me a good sell pitch so I can start enjoying my car!
>
> Jorge
>
> P.S. Does anyone know what day and time the Detroit Healey Club meets at
> Duggan's
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From "Blair L. Harber" <blharber at vaxxine.com>
Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 15:31:39 -0400
Subject: Need Original Bumpers for Early BN1
Hello;
I am contacting those on the list to see if anyone can help me
locate original front and rear bumpers in restorable condition for my
early BN1...(1st Longbridge Production Car). I realize I might as well
be searching for hen's teeth. Please contact me off the list if you can
help.
Thanking you in advance,
Blair L. Harber
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 12:59:37 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: steering box
> Please contact
> me if you need help finding a rebuilder.
> Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
>
Doug,
Thanks for the advise. If you have any
recommendations please pass them along.
Thanks
Dean
__________________________________________________
Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!
http://mail.yahoo.com/
From "P.M. Pollock" <pollpete at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 12:55:06 -0700
Subject: Re: New purchase
For what it's worth to you Newbies the first car I owned was my new '63 BJ7. It
was my primary transportation for the next 25 years, only transportation for at
least 15.
The car had its share of hard use:
Crossing Nevada at >100mph in summer (with the heat on- auxiliary cooling);
120 mph (or was it 124?) over a timed 10 mile straightaway- on 48 spoke wheels
with narrow stock bias plies.
Many, many miles of rough gravel roads with splendid drifts through the
bends (the sump capacity is at least a half quart short due to the dents at its
front).
And worst of all, probably 70% of the mileage being ordinary city short trip
driving.
Once I learned to cope with its one truly important eccentricity- the SU fuel
pump- the car never let me down.
So I too would say don't hesitate. But do maintain it yourself (and find out
its name and talk to it).
Pete Pollock
BJ7
N. California
Coop1 wrote:
> Having only recently acquired my '66 BJ8 in March, I too have had similar
> fears and concerns as you. However, I have owned a restored MGA for the
> last 15 years so I understand the temperamental nature of these
> cobbled-together toys. Since March I have taken the Healey out on perhaps a
> dozen Sunday drives, each a bit farther down the road. Except for an early
> mishap (fried rear brake drum on the Altamont Pass) which was not the car's
> fault, she hasn't let me down. These Big Healeys are unique beasts with
> their own quirks and faults. I have to admit that I'm not yet totally
> bonded to the car, but we're getting there. Advice: take a cell phone for
> security and go for a drive. Enjoy your new friend. Randy
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 16:18:53 EDT
Subject: Re: Hayden Fans
In a message dated 8/24/2000 13:02:25 Central Daylight Time, jbumpus@home.com
writes:
<< I'm looking for a Hayden Fan 3602 for my BJ8, Hayden no longer makes
them. Anyone know of any old stock kicking around and yes it does get
that hot in Canada
Thanks again Bumpy >>
Look no further!
Go to the NTAHC web site <http://www.ntahc.austin1.com> and you will find the
fan you need for your Austin Healey. Selling these fans has been a club fund
raiser for about 15 to 20 years.
We have a few in stock and will be getting another shipment in about 2 weeks.
Even though Hayden has discontinued this fan we will still keep an inventory
for fellow Healeyist.
Thanks to all who have bought our Texas Kooler fans and now enjoy the
benefits of using them.
Regards,
Don Lenschow
NTAHC
From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 13:49:21 -0700
Subject: Re: New purchase
> For what it's worth to you Newbies the first car I owned was my new '63
BJ7. It
> was my primary transportation for the next 25 years, only transportation
for at
> least 15........snip
For about 5 minutes I thought that I would use my Healey as a daily driver -
including to and from work. But, SF Bay Bridge commuting is about the best
way I know to guarantee a clutch replacement every 5,000 mi. I really want
this car to be a driver and not just a weekend diversion but the Bay Area is
pretty hazardous to 40 yr old cars. On the other hand, there's a fella that
commutes every morning in his '59 Porsche convertible, always top down,
always big s..t eating grin on his face. Makes me smile..... Randy
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 17:33:07 -0400
Subject: Re: New purchase
Welcome, Jorge, to Healeys and to the list!
>From the time I bought my BJ8 in 1984, I have not hesitated to take it on
fairly long trips and it has never let me down. I didn't know anything
about Healeys in the beginning, but I bought it to drive. I learned a lot
about my car's quirks and charms through regular 750-mile roundtrips.
Through doing my own maintenance over the years, I learned even more --
especially how very basic and simple the cars are and easy to fix when
something does go wrong; just what parts are critical to keeping you moving
and stopping safely. With a boot containing a few spares and tools, I
take it anywhere. Last weekend from North Carolina up to Pennsylvania and
back for Encounter (1000 miles), and in two weeks to Watkins Glen, NY for
the vintage car races (1500 miles).
The knockoffs were a concern to me, too, early on. I used to pound hell out
of them to tighten them. Once when I did that, I made a friend's (he had
several Healeys) eyes bug out as he watched me put on the knockoffs. As
others have mentioned, the splines on the wheels and hubs should be in good
shape. If they are, you only need to tighten the knockoffs with the hammer
until they don't appear to move anymore when hit with moderate strokes.
I've never had one loosen on me, but to give me some piece of mind, I paint
a small stripe or dot on the wheel and the knockoff adjacent to each other.
The marks aren't visible unless you look for them, but a quick check of the
paint marks once in a while will reveal whether they are moving relative to
each other or not. As I said, I've never seen them move in 16 years.
Before setting out on a trip, I always check the tire pressures, engine and
gearbox oil levels, brake/clutch fluid reservoir, coolant level and hoses,
fan belt, and the condition of the engine bay components generally.
Depending on how far I'm going, I might lubricate all the steering,
suspension, and driveshaft grease points. As EditorGary said, the first
(25, 50, 100, pick one) miles or so it is normal to be acutely tuned to
pick up every vibration, sound, feel, etc., that doesn't seem right. After
that, the confidence sets in and you expect the car to perform as it should
and get you where you're going. Mine always has, and with style and fun
that you can't get from a dead reliable, but boring, modern car.
Good luck, and Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666 TARHEELY
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
-----Original Message-----
From: Jorge Lozano <jmlozano@ismi.net>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, August 23, 2000 11:12 PM
Subject: New purchase
>
>Greetings,
>
>I am brand new to the list. I bought a 1960 BT7 in May of this year. Not
>knowing very much about Healeys, the car looks pretty good to me and to the
>mechanic that looked at the car.
>Now here is my dilemma/conflict. The car sits in a friend's garage until
my
>new garage is finished. I have driven the car maybe 3 times for no more
>than 10 miles total. My friend loves me now, not as much as the car, for
>letting him drive it everywhere. I don't mind him driving the car, on the
>contrary, I enjoy seeing him having fun with it and saying how many looks
he
>gets when he is driving it. (I should also mentioned that he owns a
Ferrari
>355 Spyder, so you would think that he is used to being stared at.)
>
>My problem is that I don't feel safe in the car. I am used to having bolts
>hold my wheels in place, not knock-offs. And also a little wider tire than
>the bicycle tires I have in the car now. My wife also likes the car a lot,
>but with my concerns I don't let her drive the car much. MMmmhh..... I am
>starting to realize that I don't care enough about my friend.
>
>I guess what I need to appease my concerns is a routine inspection that I
>can do to make sure that everything that can fall off only does it when I
>want it to.
>
>Please somebody give me a good sell pitch so I can start enjoying my car!
>
>Jorge
>
>P.S. Does anyone know what day and time the Detroit Healey Club meets at
>Duggan's
>
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 16:38:40 -0500
Subject: Fwd: Hayden Fans
----- Original Message -----
From: jwbn6@iopener.net
To: jbumpus@home.com, heasleys@autox.team.net
Subject: Hayden Fans
Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 16:19:23 -0500
hi john-,
why not try a texas kooler (very similar to a hayden 3602)
$45 post paid from north texas austin healey club pobox 45332 dallas,tx 75245
jerry wall----- Original Message -----
From: "John Bumpus" <jbumpus@home.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>, "austin healey" <ahspares@dial.pipex.com>
Subject: Hayden Fans
Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 11:13:16 -0700
I'm looking for a Hayden Fan 3602 for my BJ8, Hayden no longer makes
them. Anyone know of any old stock kicking around and yes it does get
that hot in Canada
Thanks again Bumpy
From "RL Chrysler" <lchrysl at fhs.csu.McMaster.CA>
Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 17:48:12 -0400
Subject: Re: New purchase
Johnathan Lane wrote:
> snip<
> Be sure to check the splines on your hubs and wheels. The teeth on the
> splines should be nice and pointy not flattened off at the top.
Sorry to disagree here folks, but that's just what you do not want to
see...pointy splines.
Healthy splines actually have a bit of roundness to the crest of each
spline. If they are pointed, that means enough material has been worn off
the driving side of the spline to result in the sharp crest. The wheel will
be worn accordingly. This is not a normal or natural way of things. These
conditions are due to 1.lack of grease, and /or 2.having been driven while
loose.
Jorge, clean them, lightly grease them, and make sure they are reasonably
tight. They are handed, and will naturally tighten more as you drive them.
Make sure all the basic things are inspected, adjusted, etc, and drive the
car. They were built to be driven fast and far. The car will soon give you a
feeling of great strength and confidence the more you drive her.
Meet up with the Southeast Michigan group. They are a good bunch, I've known
some of them for 25 years, and I am honoured to be able to call many of them
good friends.
Enjoy!
Rich Chrysler
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 17:36:36 -0500
Subject: Re: Hayden Fans
1. much lighter
2. draws much more air through the radiator
i believe the 6blade fan to which you are referring is the 6 blade version of
the original 4 blade metal fan which was standard equipment. as i've always
said, " 150% of nothing is still nothing !! "
bn1, bn2 and 100S would require the machined aluminum adapter- additional
$38.50.
you can check this out on our website -- www.ntahc.austin1.com
jerry wall
----- Original Message -----
From: Awgertoo@aol.com
To: jwbn6@iopener.net
Subject: Hayden Fans
Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 17:55:48 EDT
In a message dated 8/24/00 5:43:45 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
jwbn6@iopener.net writes:
<< why not try a texas kooler (very similar to a hayden 3602) >>
How is your fan different than the Moss six-blade in terms of performance,
and why?
Michael (BN1)
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 18:56:00 EDT
Subject: Re: Check List
In a message dated 8/24/00 10:39:31 AM, lmairs@ix.netcom.com writes:
<< How about sharing that with the list? I recently purchased my BT7, and I'd
love to have a check list for my car.
Lee
'62 BT7 Tri-carb >>
Maybe someone can claim credit for doing the list and has it already in
digital form so they can put it up on one of the web pages. I don't know who
originally wrote it
and hesitate to pass it on without proper attribution.
Cheers
Gary
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 19:03:56 EDT
Subject: Tire pressures.
In a message dated 8/24/00 11:16:45 AM, rwil@cts.com writes:
<< Interesting. The usual reason for running lower pressure in the front
tires than in the rears is to reduce oversteer, as in air-cooled VWs.
Maybe it is easier on the occupants, too? I wonder what you used for
autocrossing. Not 28/30, I'll bet :-) >>
It was suggested to me by Norman Dewis, the Jaguar test driver. For
autocross, I run 37 front and 40 rear. The higher pressure in the rear seems
to make it easier to kick out the rear end on tight corners. Got me third
place at Ocean Shores in an otherwise stock BN7.
Cheers
Gary
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 19:05:13 EDT
Subject: Re: New purchase
In a message dated 08/24/2000 3:06:23 PM Central Daylight Time,
pollpete@ix.netcom.com writes:
<< But do maintain it yourself (and find out
its name and talk to it). >>
YEP !!!!!
Ed
PS: "She" will "respond">G>!!
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 19:06:44 EDT
Subject: Re: New purchase
In a message dated 8/24/00 11:26:12 AM, kturk@ala.net writes:
<< But I know that his Car was in fact a Streamliner which tremdously changes
the Downforce on the car... and they handle totally different then the
Factory Version of the car... >>
But we shouldn't forget that during the same week, Donald and Geoff were
running dead-stock right-from-the-showroom cars on the sands to establish
long-distance speed records. Those cars averaged over 100 mph for over 24
hours straight.
Cheers
Gary
From "P.M. Pollock" <pollpete at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 16:05:27 -0700
Subject: Re: New purchase
Well... my first clutch lasted about 50K, most of that being from the Berkeley
hills to the flats and back, with a fair amount of SF included. Granted,
commutes are a bit more arduous now. I can remember when the tallest mark on
the SF skyline was Coit Tower, the days when the westbound hoodless driver
smelled SF as he exited the Yerba Buena tunnel (Schilling Spice plant near the
waterfront, followed by Hills Bros. Coffee from a bit further inland, then-
about when you made landfall- Ghirardelli Chocolate all the way from the N.
waterfront).
Of course, those clutch springs being a bear your leg must be strong enough for
the sustained abuse. Maybe some of the real pros and proams on this list will
address the question of clutch wear in stop and go traffic.
Pete Pollock
BJ7
N. California
Coop1 wrote:
> > For what it's worth to you Newbies the first car I owned was my new '63
> BJ7. It
> > was my primary transportation for the next 25 years, only transportation
> for at
> > least 15........snip
>
> For about 5 minutes I thought that I would use my Healey as a daily driver -
> including to and from work. But, SF Bay Bridge commuting is about the best
> way I know to guarantee a clutch replacement every 5,000 mi. I really want
> this car to be a driver and not just a weekend diversion but the Bay Area is
> pretty hazardous to 40 yr old cars. On the other hand, there's a fella that
> commutes every morning in his '59 Porsche convertible, always top down,
> always big s..t eating grin on his face. Makes me smile..... Randy
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 19:16:24 EDT
Subject: Re: New purchase (bonneville)
In a message dated 8/24/00 16:09:39, Editorgary@aol.com writes:
<< << But I know that his Car was in fact a Streamliner which tremdously
changes
the Downforce on the car... and they handle totally different then the
Factory Version of the car... >>
But we shouldn't forget that during the same week, Donald and Geoff were
running dead-stock right-from-the-showroom cars on the sands to establish
long-distance speed records. Those cars averaged over 100 mph for over 24
hours straight.
Cheers
Gary >>
Dead-stock right from the showroom?
Radiator grills were opened up, large air ducts (one for engine, one for
driver) poked through. Dunlop pin-drive (jag style) alloy wheels were fitted.
3.54 rear ends. windscreens removed. Major carb tweaking and ignition
tuning...
No?
Rick,
San Diego
From "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej at mossmotors.com>
Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 16:16:31 -0700
Subject: RE: Hayden Fans
I keep hearing about these Texas Kooler things. I first thought it was a
cup holder to keep your Lone Stars cold while you're driving. But it would
appear it is actually to keep the car cool. What's the deal with these
things? My car runs too cool as it is but I get lots of calls from people
whose don't.
Jonathan Lane
-----Original Message-----
From: Jerry Wall [mailto:jwbn6@iopener.net]
Sent: Thursday, August 24, 2000 2:39 PM
To: jbumpus@home.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Fwd: Hayden Fans
----- Original Message -----
From: jwbn6@iopener.net
To: jbumpus@home.com, heasleys@autox.team.net
Subject: Hayden Fans
Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 16:19:23 -0500
hi john-,
why not try a texas kooler (very similar to a hayden 3602)
$45 post paid from north texas austin healey club pobox 45332 dallas,tx
75245
jerry wall----- Original Message -----
From: "John Bumpus" <jbumpus@home.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>, "austin healey" <ahspares@dial.pipex.com>
Subject: Hayden Fans
Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 11:13:16 -0700
I'm looking for a Hayden Fan 3602 for my BJ8, Hayden no longer makes
them. Anyone know of any old stock kicking around and yes it does get
that hot in Canada
Thanks again Bumpy
From Alex Hope <ahope at jaques.com.au>
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2000 09:18:25 +1000
Subject: RE: New purchase
If you want to make your Healey feel fast, refined & safe, drive an MG
TC for half an hour and then quickly jump in your Healey ! It'll feel
great !
Alex Hope
Australia
Ph : 03 9864 5476
Fax : 03 9821 0285
Mob: 0407 049 623
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Andy King [SMTP:healey-100@hawaii.rr.com]
> Sent: Thursday, 24 August 2000 2:28
> To: Jorge Lozano
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: New purchase
>
>
> With some modifications at the Bonneville salt flats Donald Healey
> took a
> Healey to around 206 mph "with skinny tires" . I think he was in his
> forties
> at the time, but of coarse he had English blood flowing thru his
> veins!. By
> the way when it comes to English blood did I mention I'm running a
> 50/50 mix
> myself! and 50% of Donald's speed is about all I'd want to do under
> safe
> conditions in a Healey, at that speed they do float a bit like a boat.
> Healeys have more than proven themselves all over the world but are
> a
> little weak on that new car feel, cause they and their technology are
> not
> new. However you could not own a better car in my heavily biased
> opinion.
> Aloha Andy King
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jorge Lozano" <jmlozano@ismi.net>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, August 23, 2000 4:38 PM
> Subject: New purchase
>
>
> >
> > Greetings,
> >
> > I am brand new to the list. I bought a 1960 BT7 in May of this
> year. Not
> > knowing very much about Healeys, the car looks pretty good to me and
> to
> the
> > mechanic that looked at the car.
> > Now here is my dilemma/conflict. The car sits in a friend's garage
> until
> my
> > new garage is finished. I have driven the car maybe 3 times for no
> more
> > than 10 miles total. My friend loves me now, not as much as the
> car, for
> > letting him drive it everywhere. I don't mind him driving the car,
> on the
> > contrary, I enjoy seeing him having fun with it and saying how many
> looks
> he
> > gets when he is driving it. (I should also mentioned that he owns a
> Ferrari
> > 355 Spyder, so you would think that he is used to being stared at.)
> >
> > My problem is that I don't feel safe in the car. I am used to
> having
> bolts
> > hold my wheels in place, not knock-offs. And also a little wider
> tire
> than
> > the bicycle tires I have in the car now. My wife also likes the car
> a
> lot,
> > but with my concerns I don't let her drive the car much. MMmmhh.....
> I am
> > starting to realize that I don't care enough about my friend.
> >
> > I guess what I need to appease my concerns is a routine inspection
> that I
> > can do to make sure that everything that can fall off only does it
> when I
> > want it to.
> >
> > Please somebody give me a good sell pitch so I can start enjoying my
> car!
> >
> > Jorge
> >
> > P.S. Does anyone know what day and time the Detroit Healey Club
> meets at
> > Duggan's
> >
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 18:47:45 -0500
Subject: Re: Hayden Fans
hi jonathan-
check out all th kool stuff on th north tx ah club website:
www.ntahc.austin1.com. you can find out about texas koolers, austin healey
watches ( for the time of your life ) and lots of other neat healey items as
well as check out some of the great events that have been held in the lone star
state along with some great looking and running healeys.
happy healeying,
jerry wall
----- Original Message -----
From: lanej@mossmotors.com
To: 'Jerry Wall' <jwbn6@iopener.net>, jbumpus@home.com,
healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Hayden Fans
Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 16:16:31 -0700
I keep hearing about these Texas Kooler things. I first thought it was a
cup holder to keep your Lone Stars cold while you're driving. But it would
appear it is actually to keep the car cool. What's the deal with these
things? My car runs too cool as it is but I get lots of calls from people
whose don't.
Jonathan Lane
-----Original Message-----
From: Jerry Wall [mailto:jwbn6@iopener.net]
Sent: Thursday, August 24, 2000 2:39 PM
To: jbumpus@home.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Fwd: Hayden Fans
----- Original Message -----
From: jwbn6@iopener.net
To: jbumpus@home.com, heasleys@autox.team.net
Subject: Hayden Fans
Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 16:19:23 -0500
hi john-,
why not try a texas kooler (very similar to a hayden 3602)
$45 post paid from north texas austin healey club pobox 45332 dallas,tx
75245
jerry wall----- Original Message -----
From: "John Bumpus" <jbumpus@home.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>, "austin healey" <ahspares@dial.pipex.com>
Subject: Hayden Fans
Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 11:13:16 -0700
I'm looking for a Hayden Fan 3602 for my BJ8, Hayden no longer makes
them. Anyone know of any old stock kicking around and yes it does get
that hot in Canada
Thanks again Bumpy
From Herman Farrer <herman at hfphoto.com>
Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 19:49:17 -0400
Subject: Shore2Shore 2000
Just a reminder that Shore2Shore 2000, hosted by the Capital Area AHC
is Spetember 9-10. Hotel space is still available. For more
information, directions, and an application form follow this link:
http://lightning.prohosting.com/~caahc/Events/Shore%202%20Shore/shore%202%20shore.html.
You may also contact Michael Oritt at mailto:agertoo@aol.com.
Herman
--
AHCA Delegate
Lucas trained Webmaster
Capital Area Austin Healey Club
http://lightning.prohosting.com/~caahc
From Herman Farrer <herman at hfphoto.com>
Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 21:03:57 -0400
Subject: Re: Shore2Shore 2000: Address correction
>Just a reminder that Shore2Shore 2000, hosted by the Capital Area AHC
>is Spetember 9-10. Hotel space is still available. For more
>information, directions, and an application form follow this link:
>http://lightning.prohosting.com/~caahc/Events/Shore%202%20Shore/shore%202%20shore.html.
>
>You may also contact Michael Oritt at agertoo@aol.com. (This is wrong!)
>
The above address for Michael should read: mailto:Awgertoo@aol.com
Herman
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 20:10:20 -0500
Subject: Re: New purchase
all of this torrid bonneville activity can be viewed on the vhs tape offered
through austin healey club, usa for only $19 postpaid. you can either email me
your credit card info or mail your check payable to ahcusa to my attention at
po box 45332 dallas,tx 75245.
these are the original three bmc/castrol 16mm movies from the 50's combined on
one tape.
see dmh, geoff, carroll shelby, jackie cooper, roy jackson-moore and others set
all the class d speed records on the salt at bonneville, utah.
keep it between the lines,
jerry wall
----- Original Message -----
From: Editorgary@aol.com
To: kturk@ala.net
Subject: New purchase
Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 19:06:44 EDT
In a message dated 8/24/00 11:26:12 AM, kturk@ala.net writes:
<< But I know that his Car was in fact a Streamliner which tremdously changes
the Downforce on the car... and they handle totally different then the
Factory Version of the car... >>
But we shouldn't forget that during the same week, Donald and Geoff were
running dead-stock right-from-the-showroom cars on the sands to establish
long-distance speed records. Those cars averaged over 100 mph for over 24
hours straight.
Cheers
Gary
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 20:24:25 -0500
Subject: Re: Hayden Fans
healeys weren't made to sit still. if your'e sitting still, turn it off. all
i can tell you is, we've sold over a thousand since 1988, shipped all over the
usa as well as australia, new zealand,japan, england, holland, spain,
argentina,etc.
my bn6 has been all over the usa along with a prior bt7.
----- Original Message -----
From: Awgertoo@aol.com
To: jwbn6@iopener.net
Subject: Hayden Fans
Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 19:56:52 EDT
In a message dated 8/24/00 6:37:00 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
jwbn6@iopener.net writes:
<< draws much more air through the radiator >>
Jerry:
No offense, but is this just a claim or has it been documented? The fan that
I have is not a six-bladed version of the original four-bladed cast fan--it
is made of sheet metal and was a definite improvement. My car does real well
while moving but not very well while sitting still. I am looking for
increased airflow but I am skeptical.
Michael
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 22:27:59 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Jaguar/Daimler???
In England (and the "colonies") Daimler has more "cache' "than Jaguar -
especially in saloons. So ever since Jaguar acquired Daimler they have used
the Daimler name for the top-of-the-line models.
Early on they installed the 2.5 litre Daimler Hemi-head V-8 engine in the Jag
MKII body and rebadged it as a Daimler V8/250 sedan. The fluting of the grille
started then. The fluting had been a Daimler ID since the early days of
automobiles.
With the XJ6s and XJ12s they put the Daimler fluting on the grille and sold
them in England as Daimlers (the XJ6s that is, I think) and the XJ12s as
Daimler Double Sixes. The same cars were sold in the US as Jaguar Vanden Plas
and Jaguar V-12 Vanden Plas - also with the fluted Grille - and I think that
has continued to this day.
DickB
---- you wrote:
> Seems as if the last several new Jaguar sedans I've seen have all had
> grilles and license plate surrounds with the sort of fluting that I
> associate with Daimlers. Is this some sort of personal accessorization or
> do they all come over with them now? Do they still make Daimlers in the UK?
> If so, do the Daimlers and Jaguars all have identical grilles now?
>
> Glen
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From "Keith R. Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2000 01:14:20 -0400
Subject: Re: Hayden Fans
John Bumpus wrote:
>
> I'm looking for a Hayden Fan 3602 for my BJ8, Hayden no longer makes
> them. Anyone know of any old stock kicking around and yes it does get
> that hot in Canada
> Thanks again Bumpy
Bumpy,
Is that the 6 blade flex fan? Have one on the BJ8 but am not ready to
part with it.
Keith Pennell
From "Keith R. Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2000 01:26:22 -0400
Subject: Re: Hayden Fans
Jerry Wall wrote:
>
> 1. much lighter
> 2. draws much more air through the radiator
>
> i believe the 6blade fan to which you are referring is the 6 blade version of
>the original 4 blade metal fan which was standard equipment. as i've always
>said, " 150% of nothing is still nothing !! "
>
> bn1, bn2 and 100S would require the machined aluminum adapter- additional
>$38.50.
>
> you can check this out on our website -- www.ntahc.austin1.com
>
> jerry wall
If this is the metal flex fan Bumpy is talking about, it will need a 1/2
spacer for his car too. Easy to make if one can get their hands on a
small piece (maybe 2.5 inches square) of Al stock.
Incidentally, the tip of each blade will need to have to be rounded more
in order to clear the balancer. I used a large washer and scribed a
line on each blade. Then cut and dressed each new curve.
Keith Pennell
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 20:12:14 EDT
Subject: Fwd: San Diego British Car Day 2000
Update On The 21st Annual San Diego British Car Day:
Sunday, October 1, 2000, 10:00am to 2:00pm
Fairbrook Farm,
4949 South Mission Road
Bonsall, California
This beautiful site offers the perfect setting to display your pride and
joy, and see hundreds of other fine British cars. Bring your own picnic
lunch, or enjoy the foo offered by food vendor. Numerous regalia, parts
and hobby related vendors will be on hand to tempt your pocketbook.
This year's raffle will feature the best prizes ever!!!! A portion of this
year's raffle proceeds will be divided amongst 3 local charities.
Pre-Registration is $10.00 Day-of-Show Registration is $15.00, "Walk-in" is
$2.00. Your advance registration not only saves you $5.00, but also gains
you "express admittance!" Registration and Entrance beginning at 9:00am.
To get to Fairbrook Farm, take Hwy 76 east from Interstate 5, or Hwy 76
west from Interstate 15. Turn north on South Mission Road, proceed north .4
mile.
For more information contact Dave Kirby at: DKirby210@aol.com
We do have a web site!!!
Check out http://www.sandiegobritishcarday.org/
Or call:
Steve 760-746-9028
Maggie 858-566-6619
Joe 909-693-9094
Paul 619-575-5625
From Will Laughton <wls at btconnect.com>
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2000 09:07:24 +0100
Subject: Re: steering box
Dean
Can only reiterate what Steve Jowett wrote but one other point
Check your steering shaft and worm for play in the internal splines. This is
unusual but I have had a couple of instances. If there is play you can
normally overcome it by resealing with "Loctite" (or similar) and re preen
the shaft over again carefully.
David Ward of www.bighealey.ltd.uk
-----Original Message-----
From: Dean Caccavo <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: the real Mr. Finespanner <MrFinespanner@prodigy.net>
Cc: healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: 24 August 2000 21:23
Subject: Re: steering box
>
>> Please contact
>> me if you need help finding a rebuilder.
>> Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
>>
>
>Doug,
>Thanks for the advise. If you have any
>recommendations please pass them along.
>Thanks
>Dean
>
>__________________________________________________
>Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!
>http://mail.yahoo.com/
>
From "Josef Eckert" <Josef.Eckert at t-mobil.de> (Tel +49 228/936-7630)
Date: 25 Aug 2000 09:37:44 +0000
Subject: Speedo reading high
Keith,
there are two (three) possibilities for the high reading:
1. Wrong rear axle ratio: Please check your Rev. You should have in top gear
(overdrive switched off) about 18.66 miles per 1000 rpm, about 3200 rpm at 60
mph reading. If you get that, you got a wrong rear axle installed (may be
Austin A90 Westminster).
2. If you read less than 3200 rpm at 60 mph the problem is in your angle drive.
3. Wrong tyres (too small in diameter) But I expect you sorted that out.
Hope I could help you
Josef Eckert
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2000 07:28:42 -0600
Subject: Re: New purchase
" We must not in the course of public life expect immediate approbation and
immediate grateful acknowledgement of our services. But let us (mechanics)
persevere thru abuse and even injury. The internal satisfaction of a good
conscience is always present and time will do us justice in the minds of the
people, even of those at present the most prejudiced against us." Benjamin
Franklin
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
59 AH :{) 54 BN1
Click below for webpage and mopeds:
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 24, 2000 10:26 AM
Subject: Re: New purchase
>
>
> In a message dated 8/24/00 6:53:11 AM, esantoro@drbc.state.nj.us writes:
>
> << I guess what I need to appease my concerns is a routine inspection that
I
> > can do to make sure that everything that can fall off only does it when
I
> > want it to. >>
>
> I got a copy of the inspection list that was used on all the Healeys that
> were transported to England this month for their tour, and I think a
similar
> list has been developed for the cars that are going to do the long
European
> tour. It was an excellent check list that any Healey should go through
when
> you first buy it or before you go off on long tours. Does anyone have a
> version of one of these lists online for Jorge?
>
> My advice -- DO NOT trust the mechanic to do it on his own. Either do it
> yourself with a knowledgeable person helping you, or stand there and watch
> the mechanic do it in your presence so you will know that everything was
> done. ( On my Jag Mk2 on a 3000 mile tour last year, I lost a radiator in
> Arizona and had to replace a set of tires because one mechanic didn't
tighten
> one screw, and another mechanic didn't realign the suspension after
changing
> shocks--had I been there, these might have gotten done properly).
>
> Nevertheless, it will take you a little time to acquire confidence in your
> new friend. But that confidence will come as you gain more knowledge and
> experience. And, even then, the first four hours of any long trip are
always
> nerve-wracking until your friend convinces you that it is still all right
and
> dependable.
>
> Cheers and have fun with the car.
>
> Gary Anderson
> Editor, British Car Magazine
> Los Altos, CA
>
From "Dean" <dht at erols.com>
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2000 10:21:46 -0300
Subject: paint color
I'm doing a complete repaint of my BJ8 and need to know the color of the
door latch assembly on the edge of the door is it body color or cadiam or
something else?
Thanks Dean
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2000 09:52:47 -0500
Subject: Re: New purchase
Dave
Love it!
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
(a pseudo apprentice at 60!)
frogeye wrote:
>
> " We must not in the course of public life expect immediate approbation and
> immediate grateful acknowledgement of our services. But let us (mechanics)
> persevere thru abuse and even injury. The internal satisfaction of a good
> conscience is always present and time will do us justice in the minds of the
> people, even of those at present the most prejudiced against us." Benjamin
> Franklin
>
> Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
> 59 AH :{) 54 BN1
>
> Click below for webpage and mopeds:
> http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
> Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, August 24, 2000 10:26 AM
> Subject: Re: New purchase
>
> >
> >
> > In a message dated 8/24/00 6:53:11 AM, esantoro@drbc.state.nj.us writes:
> >
> > << I guess what I need to appease my concerns is a routine inspection that
> I
> > > can do to make sure that everything that can fall off only does it when
> I
> > > want it to. >>
> >
> > I got a copy of the inspection list that was used on all the Healeys that
> > were transported to England this month for their tour, and I think a
> similar
> > list has been developed for the cars that are going to do the long
> European
> > tour. It was an excellent check list that any Healey should go through
> when
> > you first buy it or before you go off on long tours. Does anyone have a
> > version of one of these lists online for Jorge?
> >
> > My advice -- DO NOT trust the mechanic to do it on his own. Either do it
> > yourself with a knowledgeable person helping you, or stand there and watch
> > the mechanic do it in your presence so you will know that everything was
> > done. ( On my Jag Mk2 on a 3000 mile tour last year, I lost a radiator in
> > Arizona and had to replace a set of tires because one mechanic didn't
> tighten
> > one screw, and another mechanic didn't realign the suspension after
> changing
> > shocks--had I been there, these might have gotten done properly).
> >
> > Nevertheless, it will take you a little time to acquire confidence in your
> > new friend. But that confidence will come as you gain more knowledge and
> > experience. And, even then, the first four hours of any long trip are
> always
> > nerve-wracking until your friend convinces you that it is still all right
> and
> > dependable.
> >
> > Cheers and have fun with the car.
> >
> > Gary Anderson
> > Editor, British Car Magazine
> > Los Altos, CA
> >
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2000 12:15:16 EDT
Subject: Re: New purchase
In a message dated 8/25/00 6:23:29 AM, frogeye@gateway.net writes:
<< " We must not in the course of public life expect immediate approbation and
immediate grateful acknowledgement of our services. But let us (mechanics)
persevere thru abuse and even injury. The internal satisfaction of a good
conscience is always present and time will do us justice in the minds of the
people, even of those at present the most prejudiced against us." Benjamin
Franklin
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
59 AH :{) 54 BN1 >>
Love the quotation, Dave -- could be the motto for every club volunteer, meet
organizer, and otherwise good-doer.
However, I'm afraid that we can't simply say that mechanics get a
undeservedly bad rap. For the very few of you who have established a good
reputation through excellent work and careful follow-through, you get all the
work you want to handle, and we appreciate your services. However, all of us
know that, for a variety of reasons, the number of bad, careless,
inexperienced, undertrained, over-rushed mechanics out there exceed the
number of decent ones. Hence my caution.
Besides, it has been my experience that good mechanics working on hobby cars
will allow and encourage the owner to watch and even help, as long as they
don't try to tell the mechanic what to do, but instead make an effort to
learn from him. So the caution was good for the new owner, since it
encourages him to learn about his car.
Cheers
Gary
From "Thomas Mulligan" <tpmul at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2000 13:06:45 -0400
Subject: New Jersey Listers
I have heard that New Jersey has made the use
of a front license plate optional, effective 5/1/00,
for cars with "QQ" (historic) plates.
Can anyone confirm?
Thanks:
Tom
From "John Bumpus" <jbumpus at home.com>
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2000 11:09:35 -0700
Subject: BT7 Fenders
Anyone out there know were I can find a pair of rear fenders in to
fit a BT7 the existing fenders are in sad shape Canadian winters
Thanks again Bumpy
P.S. Thanks for the fan advice
From Alan_Hantke at i2.com
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2000 11:26:45 -0700
Subject: Re: BT7 Fenders
I have a couple of sets. I know that one of them has the dog removed
(there is a patch
kit available), but I think the others are pretty serviceable if memory
serves me correctly.
I could take some digital photos and send them to you if you are interested
as it looks
like you have a fast connection (@home). Where are you located? I am in
Sunnyvale,
CA. I've got quite a few other body pieces too that I should probably get
rid of. I sold
a set of doors to a gentleman down in Florida who seemed to be happy, and
that was
a whopper of a shipping distance.
--Alan
"John Bumpus"
<jbumpus@home.com> To: "healey"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent by: cc:
owner-healeys@auto Subject: BT7 Fenders
x.team.net
08/25/00 11:09 AM
Please respond to
"John Bumpus"
Anyone out there know were I can find a pair of rear fenders in to
fit a BT7 the existing fenders are in sad shape Canadian winters
Thanks again Bumpy
P.S. Thanks for the fan advice
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2000 12:59:23 -0600
Subject: Re: New purchase- NOT a flame!
Gary,
I think we all understood your point. Mine is, and I'll use your thought. <
"However, all of us know that, for a variety of reasons, the number of bad,
careless,
inexperienced, undertrained, over-rushed mechanics out there exceed the
number of decent ones. Hence my caution." > Personally I think that the
number of good exceeds the bad, but I'm biased.
Every time I hear someone on this list relate their purchase at PepBoy's;
et al or how their mechanic ripped them off, I just wonder if they didn't
get exactly what they deserved.
I spent a fair amount of time and some money to become ASE certified,
though it's. hardly necessary when it comes to working on our LBC's. I'm
sure that Ed and Mike are similarly certified. Why, because the customers
demand it.
I think that if you are repeatedly finding mistakes your mechanic makes,
then it's time to move up a notch or two.
All of this..IMHO natch!
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
59 AH :{) 54 BN1
Click below for webpage and mopeds:
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <frogeye@gateway.net>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 25, 2000 10:15 AM
Subject: Re: New purchase
>
>
> In a message dated 8/25/00 6:23:29 AM, frogeye@gateway.net writes:
>
> << " We must not in the course of public life expect immediate approbation
and
>
> immediate grateful acknowledgement of our services. But let us (mechanics)
>
> persevere thru abuse and even injury. The internal satisfaction of a good
>
> conscience is always present and time will do us justice in the minds of
the
>
> people, even of those at present the most prejudiced against us."
Benjamin
>
> Franklin
>
>
> Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
>
> 59 AH :{) 54 BN1 >>
>
> Love the quotation, Dave -- could be the motto for every club volunteer,
meet
> organizer, and otherwise good-doer.
>
> However, I'm afraid that we can't simply say that mechanics get a
> undeservedly bad rap. For the very few of you who have established a good
> reputation through excellent work and careful follow-through, you get all
the
> work you want to handle, and we appreciate your services. However, all of
us
> know that, for a variety of reasons, the number of bad, careless,
> inexperienced, undertrained, over-rushed mechanics out there exceed the
> number of decent ones. Hence my caution.
>
> Besides, it has been my experience that good mechanics working on hobby
cars
> will allow and encourage the owner to watch and even help, as long as they
> don't try to tell the mechanic what to do, but instead make an effort to
> learn from him. So the caution was good for the new owner, since it
> encourages him to learn about his car.
>
> Cheers
> Gary
>
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2000 14:57:16 -0500
Subject: Re: Hayden Fans
hi jon-
try mini mania. ibelieve the offer something similar in a smaller version.
dhappy healeying,
jerry wall
----- Original Message -----
From: jrivera@datasync.com
To: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
Subject: Hayden Fans
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2000 07:04:15 -0500
Do they make these things for Mk I '60 Bugeyes ... are they available from the
same company? ... jon
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2000 14:50:38 -0500
Subject: Re: Hayden Fans
hi keith-
the texas kooler, offered through the north texas austin-healey club is a
moulded plastic fan and requires no balance destroying modifications. simple
installation. if you do have a four cylinder big healey, it does require the
aluminum adapter because of the different nose configuration of the water pump.
view it on our website: www.ntahc.austin1.com
happy healeying,
jerry wall
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith R. Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
Subject: Hayden Fans
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2000 01:26:22 -0400
Jerry Wall wrote:
>
> 1. much lighter
> 2. draws much more air through the radiator
>
> i believe the 6blade fan to which you are referring is the 6 blade version of
>the original 4 blade metal fan which was standard equipment. as i've always
>said, " 150% of nothing is still nothing !! "
>
> bn1, bn2 and 100S would require the machined aluminum adapter- additional
>$38.50.
>
> you can check this out on our website -- www.ntahc.austin1.com
>
> jerry wall
If this is the metal flex fan Bumpy is talking about, it will need a 1/2
spacer for his car too. Easy to make if one can get their hands on a
small piece (maybe 2.5 inches square) of Al stock.
Incidentally, the tip of each blade will need to have to be rounded more
in order to clear the balancer. I used a large washer and scribed a
line on each blade. Then cut and dressed each new curve.
Keith Pennell
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2000 12:58:39 -0700
Subject: 100 on EBAY
417173872
Austin_Healey:All_Models 1955 AUSTIN HEALEY ROLLING
CHASSIS/PARTS CAR
With the gas tank tube and the gas cap, one could start a 100S replica with
this car.
Rick "WILCO", you should check out this thing.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
former 55 100S
From "RL Chrysler" <lchrysl at fhs.csu.McMaster.CA>
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2000 16:28:33 -0400
Subject: Re: paint color
The door latch mechanism and it's mounting screws are plated, not painted.
Rich Chrysler
----- Original Message -----
From: Dean <dht@erols.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 25, 2000 9:21 AM
Subject: paint color
>
> I'm doing a complete repaint of my BJ8 and need to know the color of the
> door latch assembly on the edge of the door is it body color or cadiam or
> something else?
>
> Thanks Dean
>
>
From <costan0 at attglobal.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2000 14:20:32 -0700
Subject: rear shroud
While we are all getting rid of fenders etc. I have a rear shoud that is in
good shape. It is located in the Sacramento area.
From Alan F Cross <AlanX at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2000 22:57:18 +0100
Subject: Oh Dear - my O/D just clicks
On my BJ8...
Overdrive used to come in occasionally, then rarely, now never.
I've checked and sorted all three switches (dash, gearbox, throttle),
and put a lamp on the dash which proves I'm delivering 12v to the
solenoid.
With the engine off I can hear the solenoid (no, not the relay) go
'click' - but a pal's BJ8 goes with a good 'CLACK'. Am I right in
suspecting the switch *inside* the solenoid, the one that reduces the
actuating current to holding current? If the contacts had gone bad I'd
only ever deliver the holding current.
Does this sound familiar, and what sort of a job is it to fix it?
Any other ideas?
T I A.
Alan F Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK
H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny"
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2000 15:01:37 -0700
Subject: Pebble Beach reporter
Our local newspaper automotive editor went to Pebble Beach and reported on a
Triumph Dolomite, found there. Besides his miss spelling of Healey, he
reported that Healey's father, Peter set 1934 Olympic Flying Mile class
record at 120.24 mph. He also says that Alfa sued Triumph for design
plagiarism.
DMH's autobiography says his father's name is John Fredrick Healey and that
the Dolomite was developed with full cooperation with Alfa. Does anyone know
who really set the record so I can set our editor straight?
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
From "Phil Nase" <pnase at enter.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2000 18:20:57 -0400
Subject: valve cover
I seem to recall a previous post concerning rocker cover installation.
Should the bolts, washers or bushes be replaced when reinstalling the cover?
Thanks
Phil Nase
55 BN1
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2000 15:40:10 -0700
Subject: Re: 100 on EBAY
hmmm.....a true diamond in the rough.... can anyone help out by
identifying those tail lights?...didn't see those in the clausager or
the anderson/moment book...
"Freese, Ken" wrote:
>
> 417173872
> Austin_Healey:All_Models 1955 AUSTIN HEALEY ROLLING
> CHASSIS/PARTS CAR
>
> With the gas tank tube and the gas cap, one could start a 100S replica with
> this car.
> Rick "WILCO", you should check out this thing.
> Ken Freese
> 65 BJ8
> former 55 100S
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2000 18:47:21 EDT
Subject: Re: 100 on EBAY
That 100 on ebay is truly scary. the taillights are part of the heinous
scheme to put that fibreglass top (that we can barely see leaning on the
wall) onto the car-hence the removal of the rear shroud.
it's a damn shame...
Rick-wilko-Wilkins
San Diego-not going to look at the remains.
From "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej at mossmotors.com>
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2000 15:59:02 -0700
Subject: RE: 100 on EBAY
This is the kind of thing that breaks my heart.
-----Original Message-----
From: WilKo@aol.com [mailto:WilKo@aol.com]
Sent: Friday, August 25, 2000 3:47 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: 100 on EBAY
That 100 on ebay is truly scary. the taillights are part of the heinous
scheme to put that fibreglass top (that we can barely see leaning on the
wall) onto the car-hence the removal of the rear shroud.
it's a damn shame...
Rick-wilko-Wilkins
San Diego-not going to look at the remains.
From "James Sailer" <sailer at srv.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2000 17:10:21 -0600
Subject: First 500 miles and 1st oil change and Misc.
Well fellow Healey-ites....... Status....
Just finished 500 miles of break-in and am getting ready for the first oil
change in my BJ8 after the total motor rebuild. She (the nameless one) runs
extrordinary ......... The modified cam I had Elgin do is terrific, coupled
with the port and polish, bumped compression to 9.5:1, lightened flywheel,
ceramic coated headers, balance, etc. etc. etc. (meaning everything)........
radials on new wheels certainly added to stability as well.... Have a few
tweeks yet to do before I take her for a longer jaunt but am planning a day
trip through West Yellowstone, around the west side of Yellowstone lake,
down through the Tetons and Jackson and back home once it cools off (and
once I get a spare fuel pump...).....
Keep you posted but "elation" is the word.........
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8 - driving, driving, driving...................... (thanks Keith)
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2000 19:19:11 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: phone number
Fred
Try - 920-833-6534
DickB
---- you wrote:
> I have been trying to get in touch with Chris @ British Sports Car Center,
> in Seymour, Wisc., they say I have a non-working number, is Chris still in
> business and does anyone have the correct number, what I have is
> 262-867-4769. Also, information has no listing. Thanks "FT"
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2000 19:21:57 EDT
Subject: Re: First 500 miles and 1st oil change and Misc.
In a message dated 8/25/00 4:12:34 PM, sailer@srv.net writes:
<< The modified cam I had Elgin do is terrific, coupled
with the port and polish, bumped compression to 9.5:1, lightened flywheel,
ceramic coated headers, balance, etc. etc. etc. (meaning everything)........
radials on new wheels certainly added to stability as well.... Have a few
tweeks yet to do before I take her for a longer jaunt but am planning a day
trip through West Yellowstone, around the west side of Yellowstone lake,
down through the Tetons and Jackson and back home once it cools off (and
once I get a spare fuel pump...)..... >>
We're jealous -- not that we couldn't take a drive ourselves this weekend,
but it wouldn't be Yellowstone. And she hasn't helped you figure out her
name yet?
Why would you need a spare fuel pump? Of course, with everything else you've
done, the appropriate thing would be to install one of those dual fuel pumps
so that if the points ever do go bad, you can just switch over. Or better
yet, install one of the new "pointless" SU electronic fuel pumps. They ain't
cheap, but I suspect they're less expensive than the dual pumps.
Have fun!!
Cheers
Gary
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2000 18:49:14 -0500
Subject: Re: First 500 miles ( Long )
Jim I honestly Mean this.... It's a True Pleasure to see you getting all of
this enjoyment out of it....
When I sold Jim this Car I was selling him another one of my Dreams... to
own one of Each of the Austin Healey's
I have the Hundred and the Bugeye and My son's Box Sprites.... But the BJ8
was the Last one that I thought I would never acquire... at least not a
Quality example of one.... This Car Jim has is a suburb example of the
Breed... it was an unrestored un Molested car... It wasn't the Prettiest
thing... but the Body and drive train were especially sound.... and the
stuff you took off could absolutely go back....( Hard Metal Parts ) I was
surprised that Jim had to rebuild the Motor... but I suspect it had more to
do with Desire to have it Right then it was an absolute Need...
When I got on this Bonneville Kick... well I needed to sell the car to
finance the first Year's Racing.... Jim stepped up and trusted me to sell
him the car without seeing it... which is a Pretty big chance... we worked
out a Fair Price ... and arranged for an outside inspection at My
insistance... he didn't want it.. but I did....
Jim sends me tid bits along the way.... and I have got to see the results of
his Labor.... and the car Looks GREAT. it's in much better hands then it
would be if it had stayed here and become part of my collection....
Obviously we are both living our Dreams Jim... there isn't much else that
Matters in Life... But I thank you for Driving it and enjoying it... at
least I know it's in Great Hands...
Keith Turk ( someday when I am old I might find another.... but Right now I
am heading down to the shop to work on the Race car!!! )
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Sailer" <sailer@srv.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 25, 2000 6:10 PM
Subject: First 500 miles and 1st oil change and Misc.
>
> Well fellow Healey-ites....... Status....
>
> Just finished 500 miles of break-in and am getting ready for the first oil
> change in my BJ8 after the total motor rebuild. She (the nameless one)
runs
> extrordinary ......... The modified cam I had Elgin do is terrific,
coupled
> with the port and polish, bumped compression to 9.5:1, lightened flywheel,
> ceramic coated headers, balance, etc. etc. etc. (meaning
everything)........
> radials on new wheels certainly added to stability as well.... Have a few
> tweeks yet to do before I take her for a longer jaunt but am planning a
day
> trip through West Yellowstone, around the west side of Yellowstone lake,
> down through the Tetons and Jackson and back home once it cools off (and
> once I get a spare fuel pump...).....
>
> Keep you posted but "elation" is the word.........
>
> Jim Sailer
> 66 BJ8 - driving, driving, driving...................... (thanks Keith)
>
>
From John Trifari <john4 at home.com>
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2000 06:58:26 -0700
Subject: Re: Oh Dear - my O/D just clicks
Alan--try adjusting the solenoid linkage. 1. Loosen the lock nut
holding the solenoid lever to the solenoid shaft (left side of OD). 2)
Raise the actuator lever on the right side and insert a 3/16" drill
shaft throught the hole in the lever to secure it to the OD casing.
3)disconnect the solenoid 4) run a line from fuse terminal A1 to an
ammeter; connect the other end of the ammeter to the solenoid input
line. You should get a strong Clack sound, the ammeter will jump and
then settle down to less than 5 amps. If it reads 15-20 amps the
solenoid will burn out. 5) with power still connected to the solenoid,
tighten down the lock nut securing the shaft to the solenoid lever. 6)
Disconnect hot line from fuse and reconnect solenoid 7) don't forget to
remove the drill bit. Hope this helps. John Trifari 1955 BN1 --been
there done that-- 1965 BJ8 --still in restoration.
Alan F Cross wrote:
>
> On my BJ8...
>
> Overdrive used to come in occasionally, then rarely, now never.
>
> I've checked and sorted all three switches (dash, gearbox, throttle),
> and put a lamp on the dash which proves I'm delivering 12v to the
> solenoid.
>
> With the engine off I can hear the solenoid (no, not the relay) go
> 'click' - but a pal's BJ8 goes with a good 'CLACK'. Am I right in
> suspecting the switch *inside* the solenoid, the one that reduces the
> actuating current to holding current? If the contacts had gone bad I'd
> only ever deliver the holding current.
>
> Does this sound familiar, and what sort of a job is it to fix it?
>
> Any other ideas?
>
> T I A.
> Alan F Cross
> Wokingham, Berkshire, UK
> H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny"
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2000 23:28:07 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Firestone
Rudy
I got up this morning and logged on to USAToday and read their entire archive
of stories on the Firestone/Ford business. I recommend it to anyone who is
still sceptical.
The most startling thing I read was that Ford - in 1990, when they were
designing the Explorer to replace the Bronco, testing the prototype Explorer, a
Bronco, and a Blazer on a test track and found that the Explorer was Much More
Likely to Roll-over then either of the other two. They considered and Rejected,
suspension modifications, widening the track, etc., and finally decided to
Deflate the tires to 26 pounds. This actually worked in Reverse. It also
reduced the load carrying capacity of the 4 wheel drive "loaded"Explorer to a
point where four passengers with luggage Overloaded the tires.
I ran an errand today in my BT7 - about 70 miles round trip - on Minneapolis'
expressways, and although I was doing 70-75 I was repeatedly passed by SUVs and
Pick-ups (typical for Mpls) and when I identified an Explorer or a Ranger I
squeezed the steering wheel harder and looked for escape routes. By the time I
got home I was a nervous wreck .
Read The Articles at USAToday.com !!!
On reflection, Inow not onlt think Firestone is History - and maybe Bridgestone
as well, but I think Ford will have a debacle for their intentional misdesign
and duplicity. This will make the gastanks in the Pinto look mild.
Sad, sad, sad and it sure doesn't give me any joy, but I wish all of my friends
on this List would think of themselves and their fellow travelers and get safer
tires under themselves Immediately.
Thanks
Dick
---- you wrote:
> Hi Dick B Cheerful,
> Saw the report this morning about Firestone tires being criticized as far
> back at 1990 and so much of that being repressed. I just wanted to second
> your past comments about the tires "IF YOU WERE MY FLESH..." and I know you
> got a lot of grief, but there are still some of us that thank you for your
> comments and integrity.
> Rudy Streng in NC
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2000 23:27:24 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Firestone
Rudy
I got up this morning and logged on to USAToday and read their entire archive
of stories on the Firestone/Ford business. I recommend it to anyone who is
still sceptical.
The most startling thing I read was that Ford - in 1990, when they were
designing the Explorer to replace the Bronco, testing the prototype Explorer, a
Bronco, and a Blazer on a test track and found that the Explorer was Much More
Likely to Roll-over then either of the other two. They considered and Rejected,
suspension modifications, widening the track, etc., and finally decided to
Deflate the tires to 26 pounds. This actually worked in Reverse. It also
reduced the load carrying capacity of the 4 wheel drive "loaded"Explorer to a
point where four passengers with luggage Overloaded the tires.
I ran an errand today in my BT7 - about 70 miles round trip - on Minneapolis'
expressways, and although I was doing 70-75 I was repeatedly passed by SUVs and
Pick-ups (typical for Mpls) and when I identified an Explorer or a Ranger I
squeezed the steering wheel harder and looked for escape routes. By the time I
got home I was a nervous wreck .
Read The Articles at USAToday.com !!!
On reflection, Inow not onlt think Firestone is History - and maybe Bridgestone
as well, but I think Ford will have a debacle for their intentional misdesign
and duplicity. This will make the gastanks in the Pinto look mild.
Sad, sad, sad and it sure doesn't give me any joy, but I wish all of my friends
on this List would think of themselves and their fellow travelers and get safer
tires under themselves Immediately.
Thanks
Dick
---- you wrote:
> Hi Dick B Cheerful,
> Saw the report this morning about Firestone tires being criticized as far
> back at 1990 and so much of that being repressed. I just wanted to second
> your past comments about the tires "IF YOU WERE MY FLESH..." and I know you
> got a lot of grief, but there are still some of us that thank you for your
> comments and integrity.
> Rudy Streng in NC
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Sat, 26 Aug 2000 00:50:48 EDT
Subject: Re: BT7 Fenders
We have several fenders in various conditions .
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>Br
itishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2000 21:41:54 -0400
Subject: Re: Oh Dear - my O/D just clicks
I would start by checking the adjustment. You may simply not be
opening the actuating valve all the way.
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1963 BJ7
1980 MGB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan F Cross" <AlanX@proaxis.demon.co.uk>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 25, 2000 5:57 PM
Subject: Oh Dear - my O/D just clicks
>
> On my BJ8...
>
> Overdrive used to come in occasionally, then rarely, now never.
>
> I've checked and sorted all three switches (dash, gearbox, throttle),
> and put a lamp on the dash which proves I'm delivering 12v to the
> solenoid.
>
> With the engine off I can hear the solenoid (no, not the relay) go
> 'click' - but a pal's BJ8 goes with a good 'CLACK'. Am I right in
> suspecting the switch *inside* the solenoid, the one that reduces the
> actuating current to holding current? If the contacts had gone bad I'd
> only ever deliver the holding current.
>
> Does this sound familiar, and what sort of a job is it to fix it?
>
> Any other ideas?
>
> T I A.
> Alan F Cross
> Wokingham, Berkshire, UK
> H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny"
>
>
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Sat, 26 Aug 2000 06:04:40 EDT
Subject: Re: Re: Oh Dear - my O/D just clicks
In a message dated 8/25/00 10:41:13 PM, schauss@worldnet.att.net wrote:
<<I would start by checking the adjustment. You may simply not be
opening the actuating valve all the way.
Peter Schauss>>
Yeah, what he said. Sometimes it's just that the rubber stop where the lever
rests while not actuated has worn down and so the lever has farther to travel
before opening the valve. put in a new stop, or put something there so the
lever doesn't fall too far down at rest. In my case that was only adjustment
necessary.
Rick
San Diego
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Sat, 26 Aug 2000 08:56:03 EDT
Subject: Re: New purchase
Just a further note on inspecting splines. Because the splines in the wheel
hubs are longer than those on the axle hubs, the innermost 1/4" or so are NOT
engaged. Thus, since the wear takes place where they are engaged, the
innermost 1/4" wil be as-new. You can feel a transition on a worn wheel hub
by running your finger along the splites. There will be a noticable step
about 1/4" from the inner end of the splines. BE CAREFUL!!!! worn splines
get sharp andlyou can cut yourself lif you are careless.
If you find wheel splines worn, chances are the axle hub spplines are equally
worn. If they feel sharp, that is evidence. Also, since the theel-axle
splines do not engage fully down to their roots, ifl you look at an axle hub
very carefully, say using a magnifier, on a worn one you'll see that each
splinel is worn down to a few thousandths fromt he root and there is a short
shoulder where the original width is evident. Al the wear will be on one
side of each spline.
Roger
From John Slade <edalsj at igs.net>
Date: Sat, 26 Aug 2000 09:06:12 -0400
Subject: Healeys sighted
I have just returned from a couple of days at a bridge tournament in
Kingston, ON. Imagine my surprise when, at the same hotel as the
tournament, an area of the parking lot is cordoned off, and starts to
become filled with various Healeys. Turns out that the annual get
together for three Healey groups was taking place...Southern Ontario,
Quebec, and North Eastern US (NY and New England). The first time I have
seen more than a handful of running Healeys together in many years.
All together I counted 45 cars when I left late last night (not quite
Conclave, but an impressive array never the less) of which three were
100-4's, 2 100-6's, 1 MGB(owner is restoring a Healey), and the
remainder various models of 3000.
A couple of points I noticed....Healey Red comes in so many shades you
could write a book about it. Healey dark green (BRG ?) is not quite so
bad, but still quite variable. A lot more owners than I had imagined
have changed to chrome wires. Several owners have incorporated a large
extra brake light at or near the top of the trunk lid...most fit the car
very well and must be a huge safety advantage.
Non Healeyites were very impressed with what was a very nice display of
the marque, judging by overheard comments and general interest.
John Slade
Manotick, ON
From "James Sailer" <sailer at srv.net>
Date: Sat, 26 Aug 2000 07:13:11 -0600
Subject: RE: First 500 miles and 1st oil change and Misc.
Ah Gary, Remember I'll be the jealous one when I have snow covered roads
from Dec 1 through March......... Don't want to rush the name........ wnat
to wait for a long shakedown......... Bye the bye... I've looked for the
pointless SU for a BJ8 but cannot find one??? Any vendors.......??? Off to
fish for the weekend... catch you all next week,
Cheers...
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8
-----Original Message-----
From: Editorgary@aol.com [mailto:Editorgary@aol.com]
>We're jealous -- not that we couldn't take a drive ourselves this weekend,
>but it wouldn't be Yellowstone. And she hasn't helped you figure out her
>name yet?
>Why would you need a spare fuel pump? Of course, with everything else
you've
>done, the appropriate thing would be to install one of those dual fuel
pumps
>so that if the points ever do go bad, you can just switch over. Or better
>yet, install one of the new "pointless" SU electronic fuel pumps. They
ain't
>cheap, but I suspect they're less expensive than the dual pumps.
Have fun!!
Cheers
Gary
From James B Dalglish <leaker at exit109.com>
Date: Sat, 26 Aug 2000 09:51:40 -0400
Subject: Cinquenta-cinco
OK, as of this morning I'm four and one half years from raiding my 401K
without penalty. Nine years from "reel-tiredment", I fish a lot, too
much, way too much. So I fired up the Healey at daybreak, drove the
beach road to the Atlantic Highlands and came home on the Parkway , had
a smile etched on my face all the way. Got a bunch of thumbs up and as
a NJ resident you must be able to carefully distinguish one digit from
another.
Jim Dalglish
60 BT7 un-named, why mess with perfection.
29' Bimini Marine, you think your Healey is a money pit.
99 Dodge Cummins 4X4 it's not a truck unless it's 4 wheel drive
From "Donald L. Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Sat, 26 Aug 2000 09:17:37 -0500
Subject: Healeys on E-Bay
Have you guys noticed e-bay lately? All kinds of Healeys on there. I have
thought at times of selling the OLD RED DEVIL (if I can get a top market
price) and then buying another, less rare, less expensive car.
Don
BN7 2 seat tri-carb
From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2000 00:30:55 +1000
Subject: Wheel spline
Out driving today and noticed a slight "bump" on fast take-off and hard
braking. I headed home carefully and suspected a stripped spline.
I think my suspicions are correct as I cannot remove the left rear wheel.
Any ideas on how to get the wheel off as it appears to have jammed on the
spline ?
Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
From Joseph Elmer <Joelmer at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sat, 26 Aug 2000 13:02:50 -0400
Subject: Re: Oh Dear - my O/D just clicks
I agree with everyone else that it's probably the solenoid or the control
valve setting. However, I've found in several cases that the transmission
switch can wear just enough that sometimes it will go in, sometimes not as
the trans is shifted into the top two gears. An easy check for this is to
get on the road in top gear, flip into overdrive, and push the gear shift
lever left and right to see if you can put it in then out of overdrive.
John Trifari wrote:
> Alan--try adjusting the solenoid linkage. 1. Loosen the lock nut
> holding the solenoid lever to the solenoid shaft (left side of OD). 2)
> Raise the actuator lever on the right side and insert a 3/16" drill
> shaft throught the hole in the lever to secure it to the OD casing.
> 3)disconnect the solenoid 4) run a line from fuse terminal A1 to an
> ammeter; connect the other end of the ammeter to the solenoid input
> line. You should get a strong Clack sound, the ammeter will jump and
> then settle down to less than 5 amps. If it reads 15-20 amps the
> solenoid will burn out. 5) with power still connected to the solenoid,
> tighten down the lock nut securing the shaft to the solenoid lever. 6)
> Disconnect hot line from fuse and reconnect solenoid 7) don't forget to
> remove the drill bit. Hope this helps. John Trifari 1955 BN1 --been
> there done that-- 1965 BJ8 --still in restoration.
>
> Alan F Cross wrote:
> >
> > On my BJ8...
> >
> > Overdrive used to come in occasionally, then rarely, now never.
> >
> > I've checked and sorted all three switches (dash, gearbox, throttle),
> > and put a lamp on the dash which proves I'm delivering 12v to the
> > solenoid.
> >
> > With the engine off I can hear the solenoid (no, not the relay) go
> > 'click' - but a pal's BJ8 goes with a good 'CLACK'. Am I right in
> > suspecting the switch *inside* the solenoid, the one that reduces the
> > actuating current to holding current? If the contacts had gone bad I'd
> > only ever deliver the holding current.
> >
> > Does this sound familiar, and what sort of a job is it to fix it?
> >
> > Any other ideas?
> >
> > T I A.
> > Alan F Cross
> > Wokingham, Berkshire, UK
> > H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny"
From dwflagg at juno.com
Date: Sat, 26 Aug 2000 21:31:35 -0400
Subject: Re:BN2 Block
The engine in my late BN2 was removed at some time prior to my purchase
and replaced with an early BN1 engine. I would like to replace it with a
block cast in '56. On the lower corner of the block behind where the
starter would project is a slightly raised rectangular boss with rounded
ends. on this boss there should be numbers such as 12.3.6 (there may be
spaces between them) suggesting the block was cast March 12, 1956. I am
looking for a block that may have a date in May or very early (before the
11th) June, although I would consider any block from early 1956. Please
contact me off the list if you can be of any help. Thanks.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
From "Coop1 at DNAI" <coop1@dnai.com>
Date: Sat, 26 Aug 2000 12:49:21 -0700
Subject: Restoration - always a losing game?
In February I bought what I thought was a very nice 66 BJ8 from a seller
across the country. When it arrived by car carrier (no, I didn't inspect it
first) my heart sank as it was obvious that there were some improvements
needed that didn't show up in the 3 dozen photos that I had received from
the previous owner. The panels were wavy, the doors and hood not aligned
properly, one fender bulges out too far, paint that is, well... lacking,
etc. The interior is mostly original and in great shape. Engine, while not
bristol clean is in super condition and the car runs very well. Probably no
cancer (thank God!) I figure I paid to much - probably $5k too much.
Yesterday I took it to a (highly respected) shop for body work and a total
re-paint. I'm informed that one door is mis-aligned because there's
probably hidden frame damage behind the sill. Major bummer! Body and paint
could top out at $15k!!
Ok, that's the story - here's the question: By the time I have this car back
in the condition that I want it to be in (1st class club driver, not
concourse) I will be into it for probably $12-15k more than I could ever
hope to sell it for. It's my dream car and I'll probably not sell it so
that's not the issue. I've heard of people sinking $50k or more into their
Healeys to bring them to Concours condition. Of course mine won't be
anywhere near that condition when I'm done. So I'm curious - is my
restoration story common in the Healey world or did I just get hosed? I'd
be interested to hear other stories. Maybe it'll make me feel better :>)
Thanks Coop
From tom dooley <tdooley at ispchannel.com>
Date: Sat, 26 Aug 2000 15:01:26 -0700
Subject: Re: Restoration - always a losing game?
Coop,
I don't know if my story will take the sting out of your experience, but
you must know you're not alone.
In 1989 I read an article which contained the statement by a respected
auctioneer that by the year 2000 there won't be a decent Austin-Healey
selling for less than $50,000. With that thought in mind, I decided it
was now or never to bring my dream to life. I had a 1960 3000 from 1962
until 1965, age 20 to 23, and I promised myself I would get another one
as soon as I could.
In 1990 I found a car in pieces -- "It's pretty much all there" -- for
$8500. I talked to an auto restorer near where I lived who told me it
would probably cost in the $20,000 range to get the engine running and
the car looking good. I made the commitment to myself to finish the
car, because in ten years I would make a huge profit.
Fast forward to 1995. After years of double shuffling, double talk, and
empty promises, my car was still in pieces. Taking the car apart and
organizing the pieces cost a lot of money. The dash instruments had
been rebuilt as well as the suspension, and a new wiring harness installed,
and the bill was already $23,000. I found someone to remove seven
coats of paint and square away the body in the meantime, which ran me
another $10,000. So at that point I was over $40,000 into the car, and
the end was not in sight.
Meanwhile, the market in collectors cars passed from the bulls to the bears,
and my earlier expert was hiding somewhere in South America. I had more
invested in this pile of pieces than I could ever get for a completed car.
At this time it was no longer a matter of money. It was about love, and
commitment, and honor. I'm not a quitter. I will finish it.
Luckily I discovered there were honest restorers out there who love
Healeys. After I met Norman and Dave Nock of British Motor Specialists,
I learned it can be a family affair. They saved my butt. I only wish
I had found them earlier.
They finished the car beautifully, expertly, and contacting me often for
my input into the details. It went smoothly. It cost me another $39k
to finish, but it was money well spent.
So strictly speaking, is it always a losing game? If it is just about
money, it is almost always a losing game. And if it were only about money,
why isn't the money going into some secure paper investment? It can't
be just the money. Fixing up old Healeys is of the heart. And when
the car is ready, and you fire it up and take it to the streets for the
first time, there is no money in the world that can duplicate that feeling.
Healey restoration is a winning game. The money is secondary.
Cheers,
Tom
"Coop1@DNAI" wrote:
>
> In February I bought what I thought was a very nice 66 BJ8 from a seller
> across the country. When it arrived by car carrier (no, I didn't inspect it
> first) my heart sank as it was obvious that there were some improvements
> needed that didn't show up in the 3 dozen photos that I had received from
> the previous owner. The panels were wavy, the doors and hood not aligned
> properly, one fender bulges out too far, paint that is, well... lacking,
> etc. The interior is mostly original and in great shape. Engine, while not
> bristol clean is in super condition and the car runs very well. Probably no
> cancer (thank God!) I figure I paid to much - probably $5k too much.
> Yesterday I took it to a (highly respected) shop for body work and a total
> re-paint. I'm informed that one door is mis-aligned because there's
> probably hidden frame damage behind the sill. Major bummer! Body and paint
> could top out at $15k!!
>
> Ok, that's the story - here's the question: By the time I have this car back
> in the condition that I want it to be in (1st class club driver, not
> concourse) I will be into it for probably $12-15k more than I could ever
> hope to sell it for. It's my dream car and I'll probably not sell it so
> that's not the issue. I've heard of people sinking $50k or more into their
> Healeys to bring them to Concours condition. Of course mine won't be
> anywhere near that condition when I'm done. So I'm curious - is my
> restoration story common in the Healey world or did I just get hosed? I'd
> be interested to hear other stories. Maybe it'll make me feel better :>)
> Thanks Coop
From <costan0 at attglobal.net>
Date: Sat, 26 Aug 2000 15:27:57 -0700
Subject: low oil pressure and crack in connecting rod
While trying to track down a problem with low oil pressure, I also noted a
small crack (1/4 inch) in the face of the connecting rod where the two parts
meet. It is about 1/8 inch from the bolt hole. Is this something that can
or should be welded or find a used one somewhere?
I measure the play on the cam bearings and determined that I need a new
feeler gauge. Mine goes down to 0.0025 and it will only fit into one
bearing in one spot. The book says 0.001 - 0.002. Is this a significant
area for a loss in pressure?
The connecting rod slop is way above tolerances. The book says 0.004 -0.007
and the smallest on my engine is 0.014. Can these be built up? Is it a
place for pressure loss.
Can you give me any other ideas?
I just tried a new Dennis Welch oil pump. It got the pressure to 22 lbs.
Drops to 10 when hot.
Thanks for your help. My wife says to put a bullet in it.
Jerry
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Sat, 26 Aug 2000 20:05:55 -0500
Subject: Re: Restoration - always a losing game?
there were several cardinal violations made in this scenario:
1. many years ago in either latin 1 or latin 2, we learned the phrase caveat
emptor !!
2. in my opinion, in these days and times, a person can buy a better than
average healey for less money than you can restore one. if the buyer does not
feel sufficiently knowledgeable to make this decision, hire a healey guru to
examine the car and make sure
you aren't biting off more than you can chew.
3. if you haven't followed rule one or two and plan on keeping the car go
ahead and spend the money to get your healey in the shape you want it to be.
chalk it up to experience and entertainment.
4. buy another healey where you have one to drive while you are fixing up the
first one.
5. point to remember: pictures can be very deceptive and misleading.
6. you are the only one that can decide what you want to do based upon your
financial considerations. just be carefull along the way.
jerry wall
----- Original Message -----
From: "Coop1@DNAI" <coop1@dnai.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Restoration - always a losing game?
Date: Sat, 26 Aug 2000 12:49:21 -0700
In February I bought what I thought was a very nice 66 BJ8 from a seller
across the country. When it arrived by car carrier (no, I didn't inspect it
first) my heart sank as it was obvious that there were some improvements
needed that didn't show up in the 3 dozen photos that I had received from
the previous owner. The panels were wavy, the doors and hood not aligned
properly, one fender bulges out too far, paint that is, well... lacking,
etc. The interior is mostly original and in great shape. Engine, while not
bristol clean is in super condition and the car runs very well. Probably no
cancer (thank God!) I figure I paid to much - probably $5k too much.
Yesterday I took it to a (highly respected) shop for body work and a total
re-paint. I'm informed that one door is mis-aligned because there's
probably hidden frame damage behind the sill. Major bummer! Body and paint
could top out at $15k!!
Ok, that's the story - here's the question: By the time I have this car back
in the condition that I want it to be in (1st class club driver, not
concourse) I will be into it for probably $12-15k more than I could ever
hope to sell it for. It's my dream car and I'll probably not sell it so
that's not the issue. I've heard of people sinking $50k or more into their
Healeys to bring them to Concours condition. Of course mine won't be
anywhere near that condition when I'm done. So I'm curious - is my
restoration story common in the Healey world or did I just get hosed? I'd
be interested to hear other stories. Maybe it'll make me feel better :>)
Thanks Coop
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Sat, 26 Aug 2000 20:13:44 -0500
Subject: Re: Restoration - always a losing game?
HANG DOWN YOUR HEAD, TOM DOOLEY !!
happy healeying now,
jerry wall
----- Original Message -----
From: tom dooley <tdooley@ispchannel.com>
To: "Coop1@DNAI" <coop1@dnai.com>
Subject: Restoration - always a losing game?
Date: Sat, 26 Aug 2000 15:01:26 -0700
Coop,
I don't know if my story will take the sting out of your experience, but
you must know you're not alone.
In 1989 I read an article which contained the statement by a respected
auctioneer that by the year 2000 there won't be a decent Austin-Healey
selling for less than $50,000. With that thought in mind, I decided it
was now or never to bring my dream to life. I had a 1960 3000 from 1962
until 1965, age 20 to 23, and I promised myself I would get another one
as soon as I could.
In 1990 I found a car in pieces -- "It's pretty much all there" -- for
$8500. I talked to an auto restorer near where I lived who told me it
would probably cost in the $20,000 range to get the engine running and
the car looking good. I made the commitment to myself to finish the
car, because in ten years I would make a huge profit.
Fast forward to 1995. After years of double shuffling, double talk, and
empty promises, my car was still in pieces. Taking the car apart and
organizing the pieces cost a lot of money. The dash instruments had
been rebuilt as well as the suspension, and a new wiring harness installed,
and the bill was already $23,000. I found someone to remove seven
coats of paint and square away the body in the meantime, which ran me
another $10,000. So at that point I was over $40,000 into the car, and
the end was not in sight.
Meanwhile, the market in collectors cars passed from the bulls to the bears,
and my earlier expert was hiding somewhere in South America. I had more
invested in this pile of pieces than I could ever get for a completed car.
At this time it was no longer a matter of money. It was about love, and
commitment, and honor. I'm not a quitter. I will finish it.
Luckily I discovered there were honest restorers out there who love
Healeys. After I met Norman and Dave Nock of British Motor Specialists,
I learned it can be a family affair. They saved my butt. I only wish
I had found them earlier.
They finished the car beautifully, expertly, and contacting me often for
my input into the details. It went smoothly. It cost me another $39k
to finish, but it was money well spent.
So strictly speaking, is it always a losing game? If it is just about
money, it is almost always a losing game. And if it were only about money,
why isn't the money going into some secure paper investment? It can't
be just the money. Fixing up old Healeys is of the heart. And when
the car is ready, and you fire it up and take it to the streets for the
first time, there is no money in the world that can duplicate that feeling.
Healey restoration is a winning game. The money is secondary.
Cheers,
Tom
"Coop1@DNAI" wrote:
>
> In February I bought what I thought was a very nice 66 BJ8 from a seller
> across the country. When it arrived by car carrier (no, I didn't inspect it
> first) my heart sank as it was obvious that there were some improvements
> needed that didn't show up in the 3 dozen photos that I had received from
> the previous owner. The panels were wavy, the doors and hood not aligned
> properly, one fender bulges out too far, paint that is, well... lacking,
> etc. The interior is mostly original and in great shape. Engine, while not
> bristol clean is in super condition and the car runs very well. Probably no
> cancer (thank God!) I figure I paid to much - probably $5k too much.
> Yesterday I took it to a (highly respected) shop for body work and a total
> re-paint. I'm informed that one door is mis-aligned because there's
> probably hidden frame damage behind the sill. Major bummer! Body and paint
> could top out at $15k!!
>
> Ok, that's the story - here's the question: By the time I have this car back
> in the condition that I want it to be in (1st class club driver, not
> concourse) I will be into it for probably $12-15k more than I could ever
> hope to sell it for. It's my dream car and I'll probably not sell it so
> that's not the issue. I've heard of people sinking $50k or more into their
> Healeys to bring them to Concours condition. Of course mine won't be
> anywhere near that condition when I'm done. So I'm curious - is my
> restoration story common in the Healey world or did I just get hosed? I'd
> be interested to hear other stories. Maybe it'll make me feel better :>)
> Thanks Coop
From "Tim Moran" <timoran at ticnet.com>
Date: Sat, 26 Aug 2000 22:30:48 -0500
Subject: Wheel Off
8-26-2000
Greg,
I'll try to help you if I can.
Two weeks ago, I had a knockoff strip and fall off onto the street at the
top of a freeway off-ramp after several miles of hi-way driving.
I wrote "the list" and asked for help in diagnosing why a knockoff would
strip and fall off, seemingly by itself. I
only got one response and he thought my Email was funny.
Nothing was funny to me. It was life threatening.......
I wouldn't expect too much help from "the list" unless you have Firestone
tires on your Healey or want to know what color the drain plug or your spark
plug wires should be.
When my knockoff came off, I couldn't get the wheel off either. The space
between the outer diameter of the splined hub and the inner diameter of the
wheel splines was firmly packed with a VERY fine black dust. It seemed to
be the same as the "brake dust" that collects inside the rear brake drums.
What I did was to push the wheel all the way back on, then pull it out just
a little bit.
Then, as I rotated the wheel, I sprayed a liberal amount of WD-40 (a very
thin oil in a pressurized spray can) in the area between the splined hub and
the wheel. By rocking the top of the wheel back and forth as I rotated it,
the spray eventually washed and blew all of the dust out the back.
Using an old toothbrush, I cleaned the splined hub, especially the splines
and the threads, in solvent.
I then inspected the splines, threads, and the wheel hub splines.
Everything appeared to be in pretty good shape with no excessive wear. I
lightly lubricated the splines and the threads and with a new knockoff, put
the wheel back on.
I removed the other 3 wheels and cleaned and lubricated them the same way.
One of those wouldn't come off either.
If your wheel is truly stuck on to the splined hub, that is with a
peak-to-peak spline lock, I would probably put on a new knockoff, two turns
from tight, and SLOWLY drive the car in a circle, with the stuck wheel to
the outside, until it loosens up. It shouldn't take long.
Good luck, Please let me know how it goes.
Tim
From Healeyguy at aol.com
Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2000 03:22:59 EDT
Subject: Re: Restoration - always a losing game?
Coop
Sounds like a story that is heard from time to time in not just Healey
circles but most any old car group. My only suggestion at this point is that
no matter how respected a shop you got the first estimate from, get a second
opinion. The doors are difficult but not impossible to align if they have
been off the car or if repairs have been made to the hinge post. Usually just
takes more effort. Frame damage should be evident on inspection. Have fun but
don't look at Healeys with an eye to make money after restoration.
Aloha
Perry
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2000 04:28:17 -0500
Subject: Re: Wheel Off
Tim the only time I have actually had a Wheel not come off ....the Splines
were worn so bad that they had created a offset in where the wheel road and
the outter splines... what you have to do is get the wheel clocked back to
the original location before it will come off the outter ridge..
This Means the splines are JUNK at this Point and not far from failure....
and your right... Slines that are worn to this Point are LIFE
THREATENING.... Wheels leaving the car of Splines stripping when the brakes
are applied are not good things....
As for your comments about the List... I am not sure they were fair.... I am
not a concours guy.... But I appreciate the ability for those folks to
communicate as well as the rest of us.... Just because no one responded
doesnt' mean folks don't care about Basic Maintenence... it may mean they
didn't catch the E-mail.... Give us a Break....
Keith Turk....Happy Healeying....
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Moran" <timoran@ticnet.com>
To: <gregbankin@primus.com.au>; "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 26, 2000 10:30 PM
Subject: Wheel Off
>
> 8-26-2000
>
> Greg,
>
> I'll try to help you if I can.
>
> Two weeks ago, I had a knockoff strip and fall off onto the street at the
> top of a freeway off-ramp after several miles of hi-way driving.
>
> I wrote "the list" and asked for help in diagnosing why a knockoff would
> strip and fall off, seemingly by itself. I
> only got one response and he thought my Email was funny.
>
> Nothing was funny to me. It was life threatening.......
>
> I wouldn't expect too much help from "the list" unless you have Firestone
> tires on your Healey or want to know what color the drain plug or your
spark
> plug wires should be.
>
> When my knockoff came off, I couldn't get the wheel off either. The space
> between the outer diameter of the splined hub and the inner diameter of
the
> wheel splines was firmly packed with a VERY fine black dust. It seemed to
> be the same as the "brake dust" that collects inside the rear brake drums.
>
> What I did was to push the wheel all the way back on, then pull it out
just
> a little bit.
>
> Then, as I rotated the wheel, I sprayed a liberal amount of WD-40 (a very
> thin oil in a pressurized spray can) in the area between the splined hub
and
> the wheel. By rocking the top of the wheel back and forth as I rotated
it,
> the spray eventually washed and blew all of the dust out the back.
>
> Using an old toothbrush, I cleaned the splined hub, especially the splines
> and the threads, in solvent.
>
> I then inspected the splines, threads, and the wheel hub splines.
> Everything appeared to be in pretty good shape with no excessive wear. I
> lightly lubricated the splines and the threads and with a new knockoff,
put
> the wheel back on.
>
> I removed the other 3 wheels and cleaned and lubricated them the same way.
> One of those wouldn't come off either.
>
> If your wheel is truly stuck on to the splined hub, that is with a
> peak-to-peak spline lock, I would probably put on a new knockoff, two
turns
> from tight, and SLOWLY drive the car in a circle, with the stuck wheel to
> the outside, until it loosens up. It shouldn't take long.
>
> Good luck, Please let me know how it goes.
>
> Tim
>
>
From RandallC2 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2000 09:43:17 EDT
Subject: Austin Healey MK IV
Just saw on SPEEDVISION that they will be doing a road test on the "new
Austin Healey MK IV" tonight (Sunday) at 7 PM EST.
From JohnbS7257 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2000 10:29:32 EDT
Subject: Austin Healey Mk IV Road Test
Just heard while watching the Belgium GP that the road test for the Austin
Healey Mk IV will be on Speedvision tonight, at 7:00 or 8:00 eastern, didn't
catch the exact time.
John Stevens
"Ruby" BJ8 27621
JohnbS7257@aol.com
From Brian Mix <brianmix at home.com>
Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2000 09:27:28 -0700
Subject: Re: Restoration - always a losing game?
Is it always a losing game?
No not at all. After you've handed down the car to your heirs and they care for
it for a few decades, I'm sure the car will be worth much more than you paid.
Think of it as a loooooong time investment.
In the meantime I believe there is no way to ever see the money back you spend
on having a Healey restored. It has to be a labor of love, for love is blind
and can't see the red ink in the check book.
Now it is possible to do all the work yourself, pay for the parts, not count
your time, (it's for love after all) and show a profit. BUT who ever wants to
sell a loved one like that?
This is exactaly what is great about Healey people. They have to LOVE their
cars to be in this hobby. Noboddy's in it for "the investment", they are in it
for the emotional attachment, and that is something you wont always find in the
Jag or Corvette club. Even if they do get to make money on their cars.
Restore the car, love the car, and raise a pint with us as we toast how "dumb"
this investment was.
Brian Mix
'55 AH-100 LeMans
http://www.mixed-media.net/100Lemans/
Vice-President Austin Healey Club of San Diego http://www.sdhealey.org/
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2000 15:00:24 -0500
Subject: Fwd: Restoration - always a losing game?
----- Original Message -----
From: jwbn6@iopener.net
To: brianmix@home.com, healeys@autox.team.nethi
Subject: Restoration - always a losing game?
Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2000 12:58:00 -0500
hi brian:
great story, gorgeous M and outstanding web page. i saw your beauty last year
at the WCM in san diego. now you need to road test it and drive it out to a
TEXAS HEALEY ROUNDUP next april !!
happy healeying,
jerry wall
----- Original Message -----
From: Brian Mix <brianmix@home.com>
To: coop1@dnai.com
Subject: Restoration - always a losing game?
Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2000 09:27:28 -0700
Is it always a losing game?
No not at all. After you've handed down the car to your heirs and they care for
it for a few decades, I'm sure the car will be worth much more than you paid.
Think of it as a loooooong time investment.
In the meantime I believe there is no way to ever see the money back you spend
on having a Healey restored. It has to be a labor of love, for love is blind
and can't see the red ink in the check book.
Now it is possible to do all the work yourself, pay for the parts, not count
your time, (it's for love after all) and show a profit. BUT who ever wants to
sell a loved one like that?
This is exactaly what is great about Healey people. They have to LOVE their
cars to be in this hobby. Noboddy's in it for "the investment", they are in it
for the emotional attachment, and that is something you wont always find in the
Jag or Corvette club. Even if they do get to make money on their cars.
Restore the car, love the car, and raise a pint with us as we toast how "dumb"
this investment was.
Brian Mix
'55 AH-100 LeMans
http://www.mixed-media.net/100Lemans/
Vice-President Austin Healey Club of San Diego http://www.sdhealey.org/
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2000 13:01:07 -0700
Subject: Re: Wheel Off
Hi Tim,
There has been a very good thread this week about checking the splined
hubs and wheel hubs for wear (especially the info to check the unworn
inner 1/4 inch of the wheel hub to the rest of the splines to observe
the wear).
I'm no expert but everyone recommends using grease to lubricate the
splines. Just wanted to point that out because I don't know what you
meant by "lightly lubricated". If you pull your wheels on a regular
basis and lubricate with grease you shouldn't have "brake dust"
collecting on the splines.
I think some people on the list, myself included, don't answer questions
when they think someone more qualified will answer. If at first you
don't succeed, ask again. And of course there are the archives which are
pure gold for finding answers.
http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=healeys
Cheers,
John
Tim Moran wrote:
>
> 8-26-2000
>
> Greg,
>
> I'll try to help you if I can.
>
> Two weeks ago, I had a knockoff strip and fall off onto the street at the
> top of a freeway off-ramp after several miles of hi-way driving.
>
> I wrote "the list" and asked for help in diagnosing why a knockoff would
> strip and fall off, seemingly by itself. I
> only got one response and he thought my Email was funny.
>
> Nothing was funny to me. It was life threatening.......
>
> I wouldn't expect too much help from "the list" unless you have Firestone
> tires on your Healey or want to know what color the drain plug or your spark
> plug wires should be.
>
> When my knockoff came off, I couldn't get the wheel off either. The space
> between the outer diameter of the splined hub and the inner diameter of the
> wheel splines was firmly packed with a VERY fine black dust. It seemed to
> be the same as the "brake dust" that collects inside the rear brake drums.
>
> What I did was to push the wheel all the way back on, then pull it out just
> a little bit.
>
> Then, as I rotated the wheel, I sprayed a liberal amount of WD-40 (a very
> thin oil in a pressurized spray can) in the area between the splined hub and
> the wheel. By rocking the top of the wheel back and forth as I rotated it,
> the spray eventually washed and blew all of the dust out the back.
>
> Using an old toothbrush, I cleaned the splined hub, especially the splines
> and the threads, in solvent.
>
> I then inspected the splines, threads, and the wheel hub splines.
> Everything appeared to be in pretty good shape with no excessive wear. I
> lightly lubricated the splines and the threads and with a new knockoff, put
> the wheel back on.
>
> I removed the other 3 wheels and cleaned and lubricated them the same way.
> One of those wouldn't come off either.
>
> If your wheel is truly stuck on to the splined hub, that is with a
> peak-to-peak spline lock, I would probably put on a new knockoff, two turns
> from tight, and SLOWLY drive the car in a circle, with the stuck wheel to
> the outside, until it loosens up. It shouldn't take long.
>
> Good luck, Please let me know how it goes.
>
> Tim
From "Graham Healey" <Graham_Healey at lse.com.au>
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 09:34:28 +1100
Subject: RE: Pebble Beach reporter
Donald Healey's father was indeed J.F.Healey, he never raced motor cars and
certainly never did an Olympic Flying Mile. The Supercharged Dolomite was
made with the full co-operation with Alfa, there were only two ever
Dolomites made as far as I know. So this "car" might be as much a fraud as
the editor. It annoys me that someone with so much literal power can get
things so wrong.
Regards
Graham
BN4
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Freese, Ken
Sent: 26-Aug-2000 8:02
To: 'healeys'
Subject: Pebble Beach reporter
Our local newspaper automotive editor went to Pebble Beach and reported on a
Triumph Dolomite, found there. Besides his miss spelling of Healey, he
reported that Healey's father, Peter set 1934 Olympic Flying Mile class
record at 120.24 mph. He also says that Alfa sued Triumph for design
plagiarism.
DMH's autobiography says his father's name is John Fredrick Healey and that
the Dolomite was developed with full cooperation with Alfa. Does anyone know
who really set the record so I can set our editor straight?
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.QUINN at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 09:55:00 +1100
Subject: Re: RE: Pebble Beach reporter
G'day Graham
I suspect that if anyone would know the history of the Healey family you
would.
I don't have any reference books here at work, but was not J.F.Healey a
minister of religion? What year did he die?
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
>>> Graham Healey 28/08/00 9:34:28 >>>
Donald Healey's father was indeed J.F.Healey, he never raced motor cars and
certainly never did an Olympic Flying Mile. The Supercharged Dolomite was
made with the full co-operation with Alfa, there were only two ever
Dolomites made as far as I know. So this "car" might be as much a fraud as
the editor. It annoys me that someone with so much literal power can get
things so wrong.
Regards
Graham
BN4
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Freese, Ken
Sent: 26-Aug-2000 8:02
To: 'healeys'
Subject: Pebble Beach reporter
Our local newspaper automotive editor went to Pebble Beach and reported on a
Triumph Dolomite, found there. Besides his miss spelling of Healey, he
reported that Healey's father, Peter set 1934 Olympic Flying Mile class
record at 120.24 mph. He also says that Alfa sued Triumph for design
plagiarism.
DMH's autobiography says his father's name is John Fredrick Healey and that
the Dolomite was developed with full cooperation with Alfa. Does anyone know
who really set the record so I can set our editor straight?
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
From "Graham Healey" <Graham_Healey at lse.com.au>
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 10:32:53 +1100
Subject: Servicing Guide -British Motor Vehicles
I have just been handed a very interesting book from a colleague, Its the
Servicing Guide to British Motor Vehicles, published for Motor Trader &
British Automobiles Overseas. First published in 1951 & lists upto 50
British made cars of that time. (No Healeys, but a very interesting book).
The cars mentioned are:
Armstrong Siddeley sixteen,
Austin A40, A70, A90
Bristol
Humber
Jaguar 1.5 litre, 2.5 & 3.5 litre
Morris
MG
Riley
Triumph
Singer
Vauxhall
Wolseley
etc etc
And many more, does any one know any thing about this book or even have one
tucked away in the attic.
Its pages are very well kept but the cover has some damage. The detail in
the hand drawn pictures is amazing, so much work. Is it worth having the
book cover restored.
Regards
Graham
BN4
From JohnbS7257 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2000 20:00:13 EDT
Subject: Re: Austin Healey Mk IV Road Test
Just watched it. It is a replica with a Rover V-8. Looks good. They didn't
say where it was available but the backgrounds all had signs in Italian also
didn't state cost. They also featured a "lightweight", no bumpers, no
windshield other than a racing type, little chrome etc. Seems to be
manufactured by HMC, who ever they are.
John Stevens
"Ruby" BJ8 27621
JohnbS7257@aol.com
From JohnbS7257 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2000 20:10:36 EDT
Subject: 100-6 For Sale
There is a 1958 100-6 for sale in Gladstone, Michigan. Owner wants $10,000 or
best offer. Red, body has minor rust (no bondo), has new brakes, clutch and
pressure plate, fuel pump and carbs rebuilt. Present owner is third owner
from new and has owned it since 1993. Contact: Keith Hendrickson, 616 1/2
Michigan Ave, Gladstone, MI 49837 (906) 428-3345.
No interest in the car just thought someone on the list might be interested.
John Stevens
"Ruby" BJ8 27621
JohnbS7257@aol.com
From Bob Haskell <bhaskell at iquest.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2000 19:30:25 -0500
Subject: Re: Servicing Guide -British Motor Vehicles
Grahan,
I wonder if the book was published periodically, or was it made up of
multiple volumes? I have a book seller's list that shows one published
in 1957(V4 - volume or verion 4?). Authour is AJK Moss. The book is
listed in good condition for $54 US.
Bob Haskell
'60 AH BT-7 MkI
'64 Mini Cooper S RHD
'80 MGB LE
bhaskell@iquest.net
SOL Healey (URL http://www.team.net/www/healey) web apprentice
Graham Healey wrote:
>
> I have just been handed a very interesting book from a colleague, Its the
> Servicing Guide to British Motor Vehicles, published for Motor Trader &
> British Automobiles Overseas. First published in 1951 & lists upto 50
> British made cars of that time. (No Healeys, but a very interesting book).
> The cars mentioned are:
> Armstrong Siddeley sixteen,
> Austin A40, A70, A90
> Bristol
> Humber
> Jaguar 1.5 litre, 2.5 & 3.5 litre
> Morris
> MG
> Riley
> Triumph
> Singer
> Vauxhall
> Wolseley
> etc etc
>
> And many more, does any one know any thing about this book or even have one
> tucked away in the attic.
> Its pages are very well kept but the cover has some damage. The detail in
> the hand drawn pictures is amazing, so much work. Is it worth having the
> book cover restored.
>
> Regards
> Graham
> BN4
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2000 20:28:19 EDT
Subject: Mark IV Road Test
I just finished watching the Speedvision road test of the 'new' Healey. Too
bad they compared it to an early 3000 or even a 100/6 with the horizontal
grill. I guess, I'm just too rigid in my Healey upbringing to appreciate the
fender flares and Rallye vents. I still have literature that Geoff Healey
gave me back at the Niagara Conclave about the new Healey Mark IV. I wonder
what that was going to fetch before it died. As I read in an earlier listing
today, the Healey will bring $50,000 shortly in the future, I guess I'll hold
on to mine!
Anyone know what the price is of this 'new' Healey?
Rudy Streng (still in NC)
From "Graham Healey" <Graham_Healey at lse.com.au>
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 12:00:07 +1100
Subject: RE: Mark IV Road Test
>From what I remember, The car was a "plastic" copy. Geoff had little input
in the car.
But did have some problems with name rights etc, and had a falling out at
one stage.
Its not a Healey, don't touch it. (For litigation reasons I didn't say
that)!!
Graham
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of CAWS52803@aol.com
Sent: 28-Aug-2000 10:28
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Mark IV Road Test
I just finished watching the Speedvision road test of the 'new' Healey. Too
bad they compared it to an early 3000 or even a 100/6 with the horizontal
grill. I guess, I'm just too rigid in my Healey upbringing to appreciate
the
fender flares and Rallye vents. I still have literature that Geoff Healey
gave me back at the Niagara Conclave about the new Healey Mark IV. I wonder
what that was going to fetch before it died. As I read in an earlier
listing
today, the Healey will bring $50,000 shortly in the future, I guess I'll
hold
on to mine!
Anyone know what the price is of this 'new' Healey?
Rudy Streng (still in NC)
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2000 21:08:23 EDT
Subject: Re: Mark IV Road Test
The David McLavin, Andrew Tipping book "Austin-Healey, 100 & 3000 covers the
HMC MkIV with good pictures and explanations. The book also has other
replicas, and the later Sebring 3000 cars and even good pictures of the 3000
coupes. very good photos and story of the 4000 with the Rolls engine. Even
the rusted out BN3 is there.
I recommend that book for it's very nice photography overall too.
Rick
San Diego
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.QUINN at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 12:36:00 +1100
Subject: Re: Mark IV Road Test
Sorry can't resist replying to this.
After reading the David McLavin, Andrew Tipping book "Austin-Healey, 100 &
3000" I sent the publisher one and a half pages of mistakes that abound in
this book. Needless to say I did not get a response.
I was really amazed by this book as there is so much correct information out
there all you have to do is look. It is clear that the authors of this book
chose not to.
Yes I do have a personal beef about this book. Most of you would know that I
own BN3/1 and have done so since 1974. My car features heavily in Geoff
Healey's last book. The BN3/4 belongs to Julian Aubanal in the UK and he
told
me that the authors took the pics of BN3/4 but never came back to get the
information on the car. It is a genuine car but McLavin & Tipping really
botched the words as they did right throughout.
Yes get this book if you like pretty pictures but not if you want correct
historical information.
If you are going to publish something, please make sure it's historically
correct.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
>>> WilKo@aol.com 28/08/00 12:08:23 >>>
The David McLavin, Andrew Tipping book "Austin-Healey, 100 & 3000 covers the
HMC MkIV with good pictures and explanations. The book also has other
replicas, and the later Sebring 3000 cars and even good pictures of the 3000
coupes. very good photos and story of the 4000 with the Rolls engine. Even
the rusted out BN3 is there.
I recommend that book for it's very nice photography overall too.
Rick
San Diego
From "Ron Schonscheck" <schonny at y2consult.com>
Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2000 11:37:49 -0600
Subject: Re: low oil pressure and crack in connecting rod
She's right
----- Original Message -----
From: <costan0@attglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 26, 2000 4:27 PM
Subject: low oil pressure and crack in connecting rod
>
> While trying to track down a problem with low oil pressure, I also noted a
> small crack (1/4 inch) in the face of the connecting rod where the two
parts
> meet. It is about 1/8 inch from the bolt hole. Is this something that
can
> or should be welded or find a used one somewhere?
>
> I measure the play on the cam bearings and determined that I need a new
> feeler gauge. Mine goes down to 0.0025 and it will only fit into one
> bearing in one spot. The book says 0.001 - 0.002. Is this a significant
> area for a loss in pressure?
>
> The connecting rod slop is way above tolerances. The book says
0.004 -0.007
> and the smallest on my engine is 0.014. Can these be built up? Is it a
> place for pressure loss.
>
>
> Can you give me any other ideas?
> I just tried a new Dennis Welch oil pump. It got the pressure to 22 lbs.
> Drops to 10 when hot.
>
>
> Thanks for your help. My wife says to put a bullet in it.
> Jerry
>
>
From Rebeltown at aol.com
Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2000 21:54:30 EDT
Subject: Re: Mark IV Road Test
I saw the road test of the HMC Mark IV and thje "lightweight". I would like
a pair of those seats for my BJ8!!!!!!!!!!!!! Gary S.
From M Brouillette <mbrouill at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2000 22:18:08 -0400
Subject: Re: Servicing Guide -British Motor Vehicles
I just picked up Volume 5 of this book a couple months ago printed in
1959. I was hoping the early 3000 would be in it, but the 100-6 is in it
along with some other interesting cars suc=h as a few Jaguars and the TR3.
I might be interested in parting with it for some interesting trade...
Mike B
59 BT7
>
>Graham Healey wrote:
>>
>> I have just been handed a very interesting book from a colleague, Its the
>> Servicing Guide to British Motor Vehicles, published for Motor Trader &
>> British Automobiles Overseas. First published in 1951 & lists upto 50
>> British made cars of that time. (No Healeys, but a very interesting book).
>> The cars mentioned are:
>> Armstrong Siddeley sixteen,
>> Austin A40, A70, A90
>> Bristol
>> Humber
>> Jaguar 1.5 litre, 2.5 & 3.5 litre
>> Morris
>> MG
>> Riley
>> Triumph
>> Singer
>> Vauxhall
>> Wolseley
>> etc etc
>>
>> And many more, does any one know any thing about this book or even have one
>> tucked away in the attic.
>> Its pages are very well kept but the cover has some damage. The detail in
>> the hand drawn pictures is amazing, so much work. Is it worth having the
>> book cover restored.
>>
>> Regards
>> Graham
>> BN4
>
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2000 22:22:20 EDT
Subject: Re: Mark IV Road Test
Well, it looks like another KIT CAR to me.
The Nasty Boy cars I have seen have more true Healey blood lines than this
thing.
Here with my CO2 extinguisher.
Don
NTAHC
From Csooch1 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2000 22:58:25 EDT
Subject: Re: Mark IV Road Test
I agree. These cars have been available for purchase or weekend rental in
the UK for at least 3 years. The body is fiberglass and it does not even
have a 6 cylinder. It did not look like it handled any better than the
originals either...so much for improving the marque. BMC does have a website
out there somewhere, and the prices are a bit on the high side. However, if
I was planning to spend that much on a British V8 powered fiberglass
automobile it would be a new TVR Griffith 500 or Chimera...WOW! Sweetest
sounding tuned exhaust I have ever heard.
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8...a real one
XJ6
<< Well, it looks like another KIT CAR to me.
The Nasty Boy cars I have seen have more true Healey blood lines than this
thing.
Here with my CO2 extinguisher.
Don
NTAHC
>>
From "Ray Feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2000 23:52:20 -0400
Subject: Re: Restoration - always a losing game?
You spent $80,000.00 on your healey?. I only paid $78,00.00 for my home.
Does the phrase (buy the best car you can afford) ring a bell especially if
you're not doing the work yourself. I hope it was a 100 point concours resto
for that money. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan. -----Original Message-----
From: tom dooley <tdooley@ispchannel.com>
To: Coop1@DNAI <coop1@dnai.com>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Saturday, August 26, 2000 6:05 PM
Subject: Re: Restoration - always a losing game?
>
>Coop,
>
>I don't know if my story will take the sting out of your experience, but
>you must know you're not alone.
>
>In 1989 I read an article which contained the statement by a respected
>auctioneer that by the year 2000 there won't be a decent Austin-Healey
>selling for less than $50,000. With that thought in mind, I decided it
>was now or never to bring my dream to life. I had a 1960 3000 from 1962
>until 1965, age 20 to 23, and I promised myself I would get another one
>as soon as I could.
>
>In 1990 I found a car in pieces -- "It's pretty much all there" -- for
>$8500. I talked to an auto restorer near where I lived who told me it
>would probably cost in the $20,000 range to get the engine running and
>the car looking good. I made the commitment to myself to finish the
>car, because in ten years I would make a huge profit.
>
>Fast forward to 1995. After years of double shuffling, double talk, and
>empty promises, my car was still in pieces. Taking the car apart and
>organizing the pieces cost a lot of money. The dash instruments had
>been rebuilt as well as the suspension, and a new wiring harness installed,
>and the bill was already $23,000. I found someone to remove seven
>coats of paint and square away the body in the meantime, which ran me
>another $10,000. So at that point I was over $40,000 into the car, and
>the end was not in sight.
>
>Meanwhile, the market in collectors cars passed from the bulls to the
bears,
>and my earlier expert was hiding somewhere in South America. I had more
>invested in this pile of pieces than I could ever get for a completed car.
>
>At this time it was no longer a matter of money. It was about love, and
>commitment, and honor. I'm not a quitter. I will finish it.
>
>Luckily I discovered there were honest restorers out there who love
>Healeys. After I met Norman and Dave Nock of British Motor Specialists,
>I learned it can be a family affair. They saved my butt. I only wish
>I had found them earlier.
>
>They finished the car beautifully, expertly, and contacting me often for
>my input into the details. It went smoothly. It cost me another $39k
>to finish, but it was money well spent.
>
>So strictly speaking, is it always a losing game? If it is just about
>money, it is almost always a losing game. And if it were only about money,
>why isn't the money going into some secure paper investment? It can't
>be just the money. Fixing up old Healeys is of the heart. And when
>the car is ready, and you fire it up and take it to the streets for the
>first time, there is no money in the world that can duplicate that feeling.
>
>Healey restoration is a winning game. The money is secondary.
>
>Cheers,
>
>Tom
>
>
>"Coop1@DNAI" wrote:
>>
>> In February I bought what I thought was a very nice 66 BJ8 from a seller
>> across the country. When it arrived by car carrier (no, I didn't inspect
it
>> first) my heart sank as it was obvious that there were some improvements
>> needed that didn't show up in the 3 dozen photos that I had received from
>> the previous owner. The panels were wavy, the doors and hood not aligned
>> properly, one fender bulges out too far, paint that is, well... lacking,
>> etc. The interior is mostly original and in great shape. Engine, while
not
>> bristol clean is in super condition and the car runs very well. Probably
no
>> cancer (thank God!) I figure I paid to much - probably $5k too much.
>> Yesterday I took it to a (highly respected) shop for body work and a
total
>> re-paint. I'm informed that one door is mis-aligned because there's
>> probably hidden frame damage behind the sill. Major bummer! Body and
paint
>> could top out at $15k!!
>>
>> Ok, that's the story - here's the question: By the time I have this car
back
>> in the condition that I want it to be in (1st class club driver, not
>> concourse) I will be into it for probably $12-15k more than I could ever
>> hope to sell it for. It's my dream car and I'll probably not sell it so
>> that's not the issue. I've heard of people sinking $50k or more into
their
>> Healeys to bring them to Concours condition. Of course mine won't be
>> anywhere near that condition when I'm done. So I'm curious - is my
>> restoration story common in the Healey world or did I just get hosed?
I'd
>> be interested to hear other stories. Maybe it'll make me feel better :>)
>> Thanks Coop
>
From Sprite60 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 09:28:11 EDT
Subject: Re: New purchase
I agree about the cell phone. Also get AAA PLUS. Not that expensive and
gives you 100 freemiles of towing if you need it. It has worked several
times for me when I was working out the kinks on my BJ8. LARRY G
From cstinehelfer at bajamarine.com
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 09:55:39 -0400
Subject: Re: New purchase
Actually, you can get up to 300 miles of towing - if you use all three
occurances per year at once! We have even used all of one members and some
of anothers to get a vehicle home.............
Chris
Please respond to Sprite60@aol.com
Sent by: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: dickb@cheerful.com, lanej@mossmotors.com, healeys@autox.team.net
cc:
Subject: Re: New purchase
I agree about the cell phone. Also get AAA PLUS. Not that expensive and
gives you 100 freemiles of towing if you need it. It has worked several
times for me when I was working out the kinks on my BJ8. LARRY G
From "Ross Maylor" <obiedog at telusplanet.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 08:03:40 -0600
Subject: Re: Mark IV Road Test
I knew I had seen an ad for this car. The HMC sportscar start at around
28000 British pounds for the 'lightweight' and up to 45000
pounds(US$75-80000) for the MkIV. www.hmcsportscars.com
Holy s***, for that money ........
Ross
From "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej at mossmotors.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 07:55:37 -0700
Subject: RE: Restoration - always a losing game?
The car boom was wierd. Too many cars leaving the country. Now I talk to
more people with BJ8s than early '70s MGBs.
Like you, my Healey is my dream car. I was the reason my dad had to sell
his BT7 and I think I always felt a little guilty about that. (as well I
should...) When I found my BN7 people told me I could easily sell it for
twice what I paid, but that really wasn't the point. I didn't buy the car
for profit, it was the model I wanted at a price I could afford at the worst
possible time imaginable (heading off to UC Berkeley in the spring) But it
had to be done. The car is far from perfect, but it is pretty much rust
free, runs great and sounds fantastic. My first drive my face hurt from
smiling.
My point is, if this is the Healey you always wanted, the perfect year, the
perfect model, but not the perfect condition, then it's worth it. As many
of the listers have mentioned you will be amazed at the amount of stuff you
can do yourself. In the meantime, if the car runs and drives ok, then drive
the hell out of it before you start taking it apart. I talk to too many
people who concentrate too much on the restoration and not enough on driving
the car. I don't know about the rest of you guys but I get more enjoyment
out of the wind in my face and the sound of the exhaust than I do from the
gleam of the paint. Though my new leather seats do feel very nice.
ooooohhh....
Jonathan Lane
'60 BN7
-----Original Message-----
From: tom dooley [mailto:tdooley@ispchannel.com]
Sent: Saturday, August 26, 2000 3:01 PM
To: Coop1@DNAI
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Restoration - always a losing game?
Coop,
I don't know if my story will take the sting out of your experience, but
you must know you're not alone.
In 1989 I read an article which contained the statement by a respected
auctioneer that by the year 2000 there won't be a decent Austin-Healey
selling for less than $50,000. With that thought in mind, I decided it
was now or never to bring my dream to life. I had a 1960 3000 from 1962
until 1965, age 20 to 23, and I promised myself I would get another one
as soon as I could.
In 1990 I found a car in pieces -- "It's pretty much all there" -- for
$8500. I talked to an auto restorer near where I lived who told me it
would probably cost in the $20,000 range to get the engine running and
the car looking good. I made the commitment to myself to finish the
car, because in ten years I would make a huge profit.
Fast forward to 1995. After years of double shuffling, double talk, and
empty promises, my car was still in pieces. Taking the car apart and
organizing the pieces cost a lot of money. The dash instruments had
been rebuilt as well as the suspension, and a new wiring harness installed,
and the bill was already $23,000. I found someone to remove seven
coats of paint and square away the body in the meantime, which ran me
another $10,000. So at that point I was over $40,000 into the car, and
the end was not in sight.
Meanwhile, the market in collectors cars passed from the bulls to the bears,
and my earlier expert was hiding somewhere in South America. I had more
invested in this pile of pieces than I could ever get for a completed car.
At this time it was no longer a matter of money. It was about love, and
commitment, and honor. I'm not a quitter. I will finish it.
Luckily I discovered there were honest restorers out there who love
Healeys. After I met Norman and Dave Nock of British Motor Specialists,
I learned it can be a family affair. They saved my butt. I only wish
I had found them earlier.
They finished the car beautifully, expertly, and contacting me often for
my input into the details. It went smoothly. It cost me another $39k
to finish, but it was money well spent.
So strictly speaking, is it always a losing game? If it is just about
money, it is almost always a losing game. And if it were only about money,
why isn't the money going into some secure paper investment? It can't
be just the money. Fixing up old Healeys is of the heart. And when
the car is ready, and you fire it up and take it to the streets for the
first time, there is no money in the world that can duplicate that feeling.
Healey restoration is a winning game. The money is secondary.
Cheers,
Tom
"Coop1@DNAI" wrote:
>
> In February I bought what I thought was a very nice 66 BJ8 from a seller
> across the country. When it arrived by car carrier (no, I didn't inspect
it
> first) my heart sank as it was obvious that there were some improvements
> needed that didn't show up in the 3 dozen photos that I had received from
> the previous owner. The panels were wavy, the doors and hood not aligned
> properly, one fender bulges out too far, paint that is, well... lacking,
> etc. The interior is mostly original and in great shape. Engine, while
not
> bristol clean is in super condition and the car runs very well. Probably
no
> cancer (thank God!) I figure I paid to much - probably $5k too much.
> Yesterday I took it to a (highly respected) shop for body work and a total
> re-paint. I'm informed that one door is mis-aligned because there's
> probably hidden frame damage behind the sill. Major bummer! Body and
paint
> could top out at $15k!!
>
> Ok, that's the story - here's the question: By the time I have this car
back
> in the condition that I want it to be in (1st class club driver, not
> concourse) I will be into it for probably $12-15k more than I could ever
> hope to sell it for. It's my dream car and I'll probably not sell it so
> that's not the issue. I've heard of people sinking $50k or more into
their
> Healeys to bring them to Concours condition. Of course mine won't be
> anywhere near that condition when I'm done. So I'm curious - is my
> restoration story common in the Healey world or did I just get hosed? I'd
> be interested to hear other stories. Maybe it'll make me feel better :>)
> Thanks Coop
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 11:34:34 EDT
Subject: Re: Re: Mark IV Road Test (tipping Book)
In a message dated 8/27/00 6:40:37 PM, Patrick.QUINN@det.nsw.edu.au wrote:
<<Yes get this book if you like pretty pictures but not if you want correct
historical information.>>
Yes, I could have been much more clear about my recommending the book.
I'm aware of the historical limitations of the book, I was merely pointing it
out as a source for the photos of very rare Healeys that many people, many
times (I've been on this list for 5-6 years) have asked bout here.
The photography is truly of a good quality, and shot with a creative eye.
Pictures to see of these cars:
3000 coupes
100 coupe
A90 (w/engine compartment)
Jamaica
several works and contemporary racing/rallying Healeys
Healey Challenge 1990 (US/UK teams)
BN3 hulk
yatta yatta
Rick
San Diego
From John Slade <edalsj at igs.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 11:52:54 -0400
Subject: Brake systems
Can anyone advise me what hydraulic pressure is typically generated in
the brake lines under normal, and heavy, braking?
Thanks
John Slade
Manotick, ON
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 11:50:46 EDT
Subject: Re: Austin Healey Mk IV Road Test
In a message dated 8/27/00 5:02:56 PM, JohnbS7257@aol.com writes:
<< Just watched it. It is a replica with a Rover V-8. Looks good. They didn't
say where it was available but the backgrounds all had signs in Italian also
didn't state cost. They also featured a "lightweight", no bumpers, no
windshield other than a racing type, little chrome etc. Seems to be
manufactured by HMC, who ever they are. >>
HMC is the current name for what started as Healey Motor Company, using the
name without the Healey family's permission. I also think that they can't
refer to the car as an Austin-Healey, since the family has never liked that
car. Seemed to me they were calling it a "Sebring" or some such. However,
the cars were on display at the English club's Austin-Healey meet at Beaulieu
in July, so maybe things have changed.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 12:07:58 EDT
Subject: Re: Austin Healey Mk IV Road Test
In a message dated 8/28/00 11:55:05 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
Editorgary@aol.com writes:
<< Seemed to me they were calling it a "Sebring" >>
I saw a "Sebring" at a show yeserday--it bears about as much relationship to
a Healey as does a Cobra (or one of the many knock-offs) to an AC Bristol.
"Flattery" by copying is certainly a form of admiration, but for my money I
would buy the real thing any day.
Michael Oritt
From Bobsoniaharris at aol.com
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 12:31:19 EDT
Subject: BJ8 - Air Intake Grille
Is the air intake grille (in the hood) supposed to be a stamping, which was
on my car when I bought it in 1988, or a cast part, which Moss and others
sell?
Bob Harris
BJ8 #35411
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 12:40:47 EDT
Subject: Re: New purchase
In a message dated 8/28/00 6:32:21 AM, Sprite60@aol.com writes:
<<
I agree about the cell phone. Also get AAA PLUS. Not that expensive and
gives you 100 freemiles of towing if you need it. It has worked several
times for me when I was working out the kinks on my BJ8. LARRY G >>
Just don't count on getting cell phone service everywhere. There are lots of
gaps going across the great west, and even when driving up and down route 1
on the California Coast. As secondary insurance, you might also carry a CB
radio. Highway Patrol monitors channel 9 and they're almost always within
range. CBs are also fun when touring so you can talk to the other healeys.
Cheers
gary
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 09:55:10 -0700
Subject: Re: Mark IV Road Test
I agree with all the comments, and have one to add. Some of the pictures
of the chassis and parts are printed upside down. It takes a few seconds
to figure out what you are looking at.
John Snyder
'60 BT7
'61 BN7 MK 2
'62 BT7 MK 2
----------
> From: Quinn, Patrick <Patrick.QUINN@det.nsw.edu.au>
> To: healeys@autox.team.net; WilKo@aol.com
> Subject: Re: Mark IV Road Test
> Date: Sunday, August 27, 2000 6:36 PM
>
>
> Sorry can't resist replying to this.
>
> After reading the David McLavin, Andrew Tipping book "Austin-Healey, 100
&
> 3000" I sent the publisher one and a half pages of mistakes that abound
in
> this book. Needless to say I did not get a response.
>
> I was really amazed by this book as there is so much correct information
out
> there all you have to do is look. It is clear that the authors of this
book
> chose not to.
>
> Yes I do have a personal beef about this book. Most of you would know
that I
> own BN3/1 and have done so since 1974. My car features heavily in Geoff
> Healey's last book. The BN3/4 belongs to Julian Aubanal in the UK and he
> told
> me that the authors took the pics of BN3/4 but never came back to get the
> information on the car. It is a genuine car but McLavin & Tipping really
> botched the words as they did right throughout.
>
> Yes get this book if you like pretty pictures but not if you want correct
> historical information.
>
> If you are going to publish something, please make sure it's historically
> correct.
>
> Regards
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Sydney, Australia
>
> 1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
> 1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
>
> >>> WilKo@aol.com 28/08/00 12:08:23 >>>
>
> The David McLavin, Andrew Tipping book "Austin-Healey, 100 & 3000 covers
the
>
> HMC MkIV with good pictures and explanations. The book also has other
> replicas, and the later Sebring 3000 cars and even good pictures of the
3000
>
> coupes. very good photos and story of the 4000 with the Rolls engine.
Even
> the rusted out BN3 is there.
> I recommend that book for it's very nice photography overall too.
>
> Rick
> San Diego
>
From Csooch1 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 16:35:16 EDT
Subject: Distributor Question
Hi guys!
I am restoring my 1966 BJ8. The engine (29K/RU/H15160) is being machined
presently, however while looking through the rest of the pieces I found that
I have a DM6A distributor. It is complete with mechanical output for the
tach. Unfortunately my tach is electronic, which can still work with this
setup...but will this distributor work with my engine? Original? Anyone
want to trade distributors?
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
XJ6
From jclose at sduhsd.k12.ca.us
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 15:55:14 -0800
Subject: Door Shut Face Finisher, BN6
Hello Listers - I need to replace the aluminum shut face finishers that run
horizontally, along the tops of the rocker panels, but I'd like to avoid paying
for an entire set of 3 panels for both sides of the car ($117.30 each). Anyone
have a decent pair to sell me? I could save some dough, and you could make some.
A win-win situation for sure. Please let me know. - John, San Diego
From "Karlsson Magnus" <healey at telia.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 22:55:39 +0200
Subject: SV: BJ8 - Air Intake Grille
Bob,
It should be a stamping.
Magnus Karlsson
SWEDEN
----- Original Message -----
From: <Bobsoniaharris@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 28, 2000 6:31 PM
Subject: BJ8 - Air Intake Grille
>
> Is the air intake grille (in the hood) supposed to be a stamping, which was
> on my car when I bought it in 1988, or a cast part, which Moss and others
> sell?
> Bob Harris
> BJ8 #35411
From Bobsoniaharris at aol.com
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 18:17:19 EDT
Subject: Speed x RPM
There was recently a thread on this subject, but am not sure for which model.
At 60 mph (appears about right given flow of traffic), my BJ8 Ph II is @ 4950
rpm with the overdrive switched off and about 4250 with overdrive on. It's
got a new correct speedo cable from Moss and 5.90x15 Dunlop RS tires. Seems
high. Is it possible to have an axle numerically higher than 3.901?
Any comments/assistence would be appreciated.
Bob Harris
BJ8 35411
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 15:42:26 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Speed x RPM
Bob,
Yes you can do much better than that. With a 3.54
rear end and 28% overdrive I drift along at 80mph
turning just over 3200 rpms*. Very comfortable and
only necessary to down shift on the steepest of
grades. It made the difference in taking my car on
long trips or not.
Dean BN7 (original non-overdrive car with a Smitty
kit)
* Tach and MPH figures are estimates based on actual
readings:-)
--- Bobsoniaharris@aol.com wrote:
>
> There was recently a thread on this subject, but am
> not sure for which model.
> At 60 mph (appears about right given flow of
> traffic), my BJ8 Ph II is @ 4950
> rpm with the overdrive switched off and about 4250
> with overdrive on. It's
> got a new correct speedo cable from Moss and 5.90x15
> Dunlop RS tires. Seems
> high. Is it possible to have an axle numerically
> higher than 3.901?
> Any comments/assistence would be appreciated.
> Bob Harris
> BJ8 35411
__________________________________________________
Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!
From "Thomas Mulligan" <tpmul at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 19:01:46 -0400
Subject: Fw: New Jersey Listers
To all who asked me to follow up if I confirmed
that NJ no longer required the use of a front
license plate on vehicles registered as Historic (QQ),
the following confirmation was received today from
the NJDMV.
Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: Mary Rose Nelson <MaryRose.Nelson@DOT.STATE.NJ.US>
To: <tpmul@worldnet.att.net>
Sent: Monday, August 28, 2000 2:56 PM
Subject: Historic Plates -Reply
Dear Mr. Mulligan,
Thank you for your e-mail inquiry. You are correct. You are no longer
required to display a license plate on the front of a historic vehicle.
Regards,
MVS Correspondence Unit
From "Bruce Starke" <bstarke at redshift.bc.ca>
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 17:17:21 -0600
Subject: combination gauge
I bought a new oil pressure/water temp gauge on the recent Moss
sale---installed it today and the water temp does not work (Just like the
one I took out!!). Is there anything I can do before contacting them about
this? Anyone else have the same problem. I was very careful with the
capillary tube during installation.
Thanks
BRUCE STARKE
BJ7
BT7 tricarb
From BGAHC at aol.com
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 19:34:34 EDT
Subject: BJ8 for sale in St. Louis
Passing this along for those who may be interested. Wayne is in the process
of moving to Kentucky and needs to sell this BJ8 currently in St. Louis.
contact him direct at buzzard@apex.net for more information.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
__________________________________________________________________
> Jim,
> I wrote you several months ago regarding a Healey I have for sale. Well,
we
> have now sold our house and must be out by mid September. I can't let my
> Healey set outside (no garage here yet). I had asked $27,000 but now I
will
> take $22,000. It is light blue with dark blue soft top, has the hard top,
> about 39,000 miles, 1967, 3000 MKIII, located in St. Louis.
>
> If you know someone or an avenue for sale, please e-mail me at
> buzzard@apex.net.
>
> Thank You,
>
> Have a Great Day!
>
> Wayne Pederson
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
1957 BN4 Rally Car
1966 BJ8
From "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc at earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 16:59:00 -0700
Subject: Fw: Speed x RPM
Hi Bob - Dean, et al:
Rick Wilkins was good enough to create a "pdf" file for us. He has posted it
on his web site for easy interchange. With my DSL line it comes up real
quick.
The table converts RPM, tire size, gear, and differential ratio to MPH.
Being afflicted with an Austin-Healey speedometer, I was both pleased and
surprised with the truth.
see http://members.aol.com/wilko/healeygears.pdf
If you backup to Rick's home page at http://members.aol.com/wilko and you
will see some really fine pictures and articles.
Rick, thanks again for the table.
Jim LeBlanc
1956 100-M
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Bobsoniaharris@aol.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, August 28, 2000 3:17 PM
> Subject: Speed x RPM
>
>
>
> There was recently a thread on this subject, but am not sure for which
> model.
> At 60 mph (appears about right given flow of traffic), my BJ8 Ph II is @
> 4950
> rpm with the overdrive switched off and about 4250 with overdrive on. It's
> got a new correct speedo cable from Moss and 5.90x15 Dunlop RS tires.
> Seems
> high. Is it possible to have an axle numerically higher than 3.901?
> Any comments/assistence would be appreciated.
> Bob Harris
> BJ8 35411
>
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 21:21:53 EDT
Subject: Re: Speed x RPM
In a message dated 8/28/00 3:21:01 PM, Bobsoniaharris@aol.com writes:
<< At 60 mph (appears about right given flow of traffic), my BJ8 Ph II is @
4950
rpm with the overdrive switched off and about 4250 with overdrive on. >>
That seems entirely out of line, even with some of the variations of rear end
and overdrive. i would suspect the tachometer.
Cheers
Gary
From Bobsoniaharris at aol.com
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 21:51:14 EDT
Subject: Re: combination gauge
Bruce,
Had the same problem with mine, but didn't get the Moss gauge since it wasn't
the original but a replacement type. Bought a used one from Hemphill's Healey
Haven(1-800-943-2539) at a reasonable price. Gary personally tested it before
shipping.
Installed it -- works beautifully!
Bob Harris
BJ8 35411
From Bobsoniaharris at aol.com
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 21:57:38 EDT
Subject: Re: Speed x RPM
Gary,
Thanks for the fast response.
OK - I give up. Can tachs be calibrated?
Bob Harris
From "Keith R. Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 00:20:43 -0400
Subject: Re: Speed x RPM
Bobsoniaharris@aol.com wrote:
>
> Gary,
> Thanks for the fast response.
> OK - I give up. Can tachs be calibrated?
> Bob Harris
Bob,
Yes they can. I did this with my BJ8 and took about 15 minutes with a
shop tach. Will give the details tomorrow. It is late and must get to
bed.
Keith Pennell
From "Alan Tadd" <Alan at tadd1.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 12:59:48 +0100
Subject: Mk 4
The car you are all referring to is the HMC Mk 4. It's been onsale in the UK
for some considerable time.
It is a very fine motor car indeed, and has been tested by respected
motoring journalists throughout Europe. It is not, however a Healey!, and
should not be considered as such.
The interior of the vehicle is superb and the engine note (V8 3.9 litre)
very pleasing, but it does not sound like a Healey.
There is a market for this type of vehicle, and it should not be confused
with other "kit car" replica's that are out there.
I know some people who own one of these vehicles and they are very happy
with their purchase, It seems their main reason for buying one is that they
wanted the traditional appearance of a Healey but required modern running
gear, with inbuilt reliability.
Fair enough, each to his own, but for me there is NOTHING like an original
Healey to own and drive.
Regards
Alan Tadd
BJ7 (UK).
(PS Commercial Plug.....Chassis/Substructure units are now available at
under £5K (UKP)....If your interested contact me off list.)
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 08:14:15 EDT
Subject: Did you name your home?
Hi Listers,
I found out that many of you name your cars, but how many of you name your
homes? I recently wrote to Patrick Quinn in Australia and I believe his home
is called "Wongaburra". Donald Healey and his family of John & Joy live at
"Bridge House". Bic & Mary at "Trebourne". John & Heather Wheatley at
"Shelsley House". Former Rev Counter editors, Gordon & Joyce Pearce at
"Gazebo".
On the columns in front of our home is a plaque that says, "Our Healey
Haven", but that isn't the name, just a statement.
Rudy Streng in NC
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 08:54:15 -0400
Subject: Re: Did you name your home?
No....But my cat is called "Tilley" ;-)
-
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
CAWS52803@aol.com wrote:
> Hi Listers,
> I found out that many of you name your cars, but how many of you name your
> homes? I recently wrote to Patrick Quinn in Australia and I believe his home
> is called "Wongaburra". Donald Healey and his family of John & Joy live at
> "Bridge House". Bic & Mary at "Trebourne". John & Heather Wheatley at
> "Shelsley House". Former Rev Counter editors, Gordon & Joyce Pearce at
> "Gazebo".
> On the columns in front of our home is a plaque that says, "Our Healey
> Haven", but that isn't the name, just a statement.
> Rudy Streng in NC
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 08:57:18 EDT
Subject: Re: Did you name your home?
In a message dated 8/29/00 8:54:38 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
magicare@home.com writes:
<< No....But my cat is called "Tilley" ;-) >>
Hmmm--If the cat were named Morris you call your place "Morris's Garage"!
Michael
From "Scheuble, Fred J. ,HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 09:06:08 -0400
Subject: RE: Did you name your home?
I'm thinking of naming mine "the out house"
-----Original Message-----
From: Eugene D Abbondelo [mailto:eabb@loc.gov]
Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2000 8:59 AM
To: CAWS52803@aol.com; british-cars@autox.team.net;
healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Did you name your home?
This seems to be more common amongst our overseas cousins. England
seems to be awash in "Old Courts", "Rose Cottages" and "Mews"
I call mine "Shambles"
How about English place-names--my favorites are Upper and Lower
Slaughter.
Gene
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 09:04:36 -0400
Subject: Re: Speed x RPM
Bobsoniaharris@aol.com wrote:
> Gary,
> Thanks for the fast response.
> OK - I give up. Can tachs be calibrated?
> Bob Harris
If you have an electronic tach..(BJ8) it can be calibrated to some
degree by adjusting the variable resistor inside the back. You have to
remove the glass and the case for access.
The problem seems to be with these instruments that as they get older
they become temperature sensitive and tend to read differently as they
warm up.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 08:19:59 -0500
Subject: Re: Did you name your home?
How bout Alternate Residence? Keith
----------
> From: Scheuble, Fred J. ,HiServ/NA <fjscheuble@hiserv-na.com>
> To: 'Eugene D Abbondelo' <eabb@loc.gov>; CAWS52803@aol.com;
british-cars@autox.team.net; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: RE: Did you name your home?
> Date: Tuesday, August 29, 2000 8:06 AM
>
>
> I'm thinking of naming mine "the out house"
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Eugene D Abbondelo [mailto:eabb@loc.gov]
> Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2000 8:59 AM
> To: CAWS52803@aol.com; british-cars@autox.team.net;
> healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Did you name your home?
>
>
> This seems to be more common amongst our overseas cousins. England
> seems to be awash in "Old Courts", "Rose Cottages" and "Mews"
>
> I call mine "Shambles"
>
> How about English place-names--my favorites are Upper and Lower
> Slaughter.
>
> Gene
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 09:14:47 EDT
Subject: Re: Speed x RPM
In a message dated 8/29/2000 08:05:17 Central Daylight Time,
magicare@home.com writes:
<< If you have an electronic tach..(BJ8) it can be calibrated to some
degree by adjusting the variable resistor inside the back. You have to
remove the glass and the case for access. >>
If you are careful you can drill an acess hole in rear of tach where the
adjustment screw is and then tape or plug it after calibration. Then you
don't have to remove the tach each time you want to calibrate it.
Don
NTAHC
Have you checked out the Healey Girl pic on the NTAHC web site? Look under
Regalia. <http://www.ntahc.austin1.com>
From cstinehelfer at bajamarine.com
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 09:38:55 -0400
Subject: Re: Did you name your home?
Actually, we call ours "The Possum Lodge" (long story that makes little
sense...)
I grew up in "The Beaver Hut" so I guess I can blame my mom for some of
it..............
Chris
'54 100 SC
From Rebeltown at aol.com
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 10:18:13 EDT
Subject: BJ8 oil pressure gauge
Yesterday my oil pressure gauge started to fluctuate wildly between 20 and 30
lbs. at idle. It does this all the time although a lot less noticable at
high oil pressures while driving. At cruising speed I have 50-55 lbs of
pressure but as I let off the gas the needle starts to drop as it should but
the needle starts rapidly swinging back and forth within about a 10 lb. range
of the correct pressure. Do I have air in the line or is there a dampening
mechanism in the gauge that no longer works or what? Any help would be
appreciated, Thanks Gary S.
From Urs Hanselmann <urs_hanselmann at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 07:20:51 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Mark IV road test
>Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2000 22:58:25 EDT
>From: Csooch1@aol.com
>Subject: Re: Mark IV Road Test
>
SNIP
>and it does not even have a 6 cylinder
SNIP
Hey Chris neither does mine ;-)
Urs
CH-Zurich (BN1, July 55)
BTW:
HMC has a webpage about their "cars" at
http://www.hmcsportscars.com/. They liste the price to
be UK£ 45'000!!! Juuust a little steep IMHO
__________________________________________________
Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!
From Csooch1 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 10:54:52 EDT
Subject: Re: Mark IV road test
Oops...sorry guys. I should have said "the proper type of engine".
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
XJ6
p.s. I guess I am biased towards straight sixes...
>
SNIP
>and it does not even have a 6 cylinder
SNIP
Hey Chris neither does mine ;-)
Urs
CH-Zurich (BN1, July 55)
From "Donald L. Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 10:26:41 -0500
Subject: Name your house
Since we built this place 9 years ago, my wife has referred to it as "My Old
Kentucky" home.
What else?
Don
Morganfield, KY
BN7
From jclose at sduhsd.k12.ca.us
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 10:47:33 -0800
Subject: BN6 Electrical Gremlins
Hello again, listers - My Healey recently came back from the body/paint shop,
and, though it looks great, as I began re-connecting electrical devices, I found
that it picked up a few electrical maladies while it was away. To give you a few
laughs and to solicit advice, I will share my troubles with you. Troubles
follow:
1. When I pull the light switch out one click, all 4 marker lights illuminate,
but very dimly.
2. When I turn on the ignition switch and move the trafficator switch to the
right, the horn sounds briefly, and all but the right front marker light flash;
flashing will not cease, no matter the position of the trafficator switch, until
I turn off the ignition.
3. Now that the marker lights are connected, the fuel gage has ceased working,
except when I push the horn button (which still sounds the horn, by the way.)
4. Some additional clues - The trafficator switch had been pushed up against the
steering wheel boss, and the 50 amp fuse had blown, when I got the car back.
Have not yet connected headlights - perhaps that makes a difference?
So much going wrong here - makes me feel like a mosquito at a nudist colony -
don't know where to start. Your suggestions will be much appreciated. Thanks -
John, San Diego
From John Trifari <john4 at home.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 22:24:10 -0700
Subject: Re: BN6 Electrical Gremlins
John--start with the connection between the trafficator harness and the
main harness. You will find the conenctions in front of the front cross
piece under the grill/radiator. It would seem to me that someting is
cross connected. The horn is independent of the lights, so there should
be no horn activity if you move the trafficator lever. Start simple:
Pull all the connections at the cross piece and then re connect the horn
ground lines (brown with black) and test. Make sure you have a fuse in
the A1-A2 fuse terminal. If horn works OK, reconnect the directional
lines (green/green w ltgreen/green w blue). Green is power in. Be
careful of the green with light green and the green wires. They are
easily confused and the result will be no directonals on the left if
they are not properly connected. You may have to clean off the wires to
see the color codes. Test as you go along.
The marker lights have no connection with the trafficator. These are red
wires, but from your description it would appear that somehow they have
been integrated into the horn/directional circuit. If you find red
lines at the trafficator harness, disconnect them. They should be
connectged by pigtails to the lamp sockets in front. Check the marker
lamps/fixtures and be sure that the red line is connected to the dimmer
of the two terminals. A common problem is having the market lamp
attached to the brighter directional temrinal. Check the same at the
rear lights.
Finally. would check the fuse bloc. It wold seem to me that in addition
to everything else, something may not be connected properly there. You
have four terminals: A1-A2 and A3-A4. A brown wire runs to A1. Two
brown with green wires run from A2 to the horns. That's all. Three
white wires run into A3--one from the ignition, one to the fuel pump,
and one to the overdrive. A4 is a "double" connection and all tthe
green wires are attached there, including the fuel gauge sending unit.
Make sure all the wires are correctly connected.
The trick in gneral is to seperate things and then to reconnect.
Remember that all circuits are separate, so that if you have a
"crossover' problem, you want to go to the place where the crossover can
occur. Also remmeber that the A1-A2 fuse is hot--it is on even if the
ignition is off, so be careful, and if necessary disconnect the
battery. Finally, consult you wiring diagram for more info. Hope all
this helps and that you're back on the road soon. John Trifari 1955
BN1/1965 BJ8
jclose@sduhsd.k12.ca.us wrote:
>
> Hello again, listers - My Healey recently came back from the body/paint shop,
> and, though it looks great, as I began re-connecting electrical devices, I
>found
> that it picked up a few electrical maladies while it was away. To give you a
>few
> laughs and to solicit advice, I will share my troubles with you. Troubles
> follow:
>
> 1. When I pull the light switch out one click, all 4 marker lights illuminate,
> but very dimly.
>
> 2. When I turn on the ignition switch and move the trafficator switch to the
> right, the horn sounds briefly, and all but the right front marker light
>flash;
> flashing will not cease, no matter the position of the trafficator switch,
>until
> I turn off the ignition.
>
> 3. Now that the marker lights are connected, the fuel gage has ceased working,
> except when I push the horn button (which still sounds the horn, by the way.)
>
> 4. Some additional clues - The trafficator switch had been pushed up against
>the
> steering wheel boss, and the 50 amp fuse had blown, when I got the car back.
> Have not yet connected headlights - perhaps that makes a difference?
>
> So much going wrong here - makes me feel like a mosquito at a nudist colony -
> don't know where to start. Your suggestions will be much appreciated. Thanks -
> John, San Diego
From "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan at virginnet.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 19:07:00 +0100
Subject: Tacho/revs/tyre sizes
In response to the posting of a .pdf file elucidating all
the above:-
Thanks for the posting.
Could someone remind me what I use to read .pdf files? Is it Acrobat?
(I'm sure I've done it in the past-just forgotten).
Assuming one has the chart, can one adjust one's own tacho??
Mine is a mwchanical from a MkII BT7.
Your's,
S.D.Lachlan,
Comfort House,
Bradninch,
Devon EX5 4NN.
Tel. 01392-882248
From "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej at mossmotors.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 11:30:17 -0700
Subject: Guages
Anyone looking for gauge work can try either West Valley instruments @
818-758-9500 or Mo-Ma @ 505-766-6661.
They do everything you could want, including rebuilds. I have used west
valley myself and was very pleased with the results, I have other friends
who swear by Mo-Ma. Either one can help you out!
-----Original Message-----
From: Simon Lachlan [mailto:simon.lachlan@virginnet.co.uk]
Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2000 11:07 AM
To: Healeys
Subject: Tacho/revs/tyre sizes
In response to the posting of a .pdf file elucidating all
the above:-
Thanks for the posting.
Could someone remind me what I use to read .pdf files? Is it Acrobat?
(I'm sure I've done it in the past-just forgotten).
Assuming one has the chart, can one adjust one's own tacho??
Mine is a mwchanical from a MkII BT7.
Your's,
S.D.Lachlan,
Comfort House,
Bradninch,
Devon EX5 4NN.
Tel. 01392-882248
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 14:33:19 EDT
Subject: Re: Tacho/revs/tyre sizes
In a message dated 8/29/00 11:24:47, simon.lachlan@virginnet.co.uk writes:
<< In response to the posting of a .pdf file elucidating all
the above:-
Thanks for the posting.
Could someone remind me what I use to read .pdf files? Is it Acrobat?
(I'm sure I've done it in the past-just forgotten).
Assuming one has the chart, can one adjust one's own tacho??
Mine is a mechanical from a MkII BT7. >>
To read the chart that I posted, yes, Acrobat (Free download from adobe.com).
About adjusting the tach, I would not use the chart.
The Data I uploaded comes directly from the owner's handbook and actual tire
sizes and pressures can change the data. Also you would need to assume that
your speedo is correct (which is very rare).
For adjusting the tach you need a calibrated shop tach. For the speedo you
need to roll your car, count the revs of the wheels over a prescribed
distance and then calibrate to that. Or give those numbers to the shop that
will do the calibration.
Most pre-electronic tach Healeys have a pretty accurate tacho reading.
Cheers,
Rick Wilkins
San Diego
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 11:38:19 -0700
Subject: gear balancing
I just heard about balancing the gears in the transmission for smoother
shifting. Something new to me. Is this another demon tweak that really
couldn't be felt? What would be the weight requirement?
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
From "Alan Tadd" <Alan at tadd1.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 19:53:46 +0100
Subject: Re: Did you name your home?
Dear All
My house name (which I inherited from the previous owner) is called
"Merrymount". I guess it could refer to Healey's or it could have some other
meaning!!!...
Regards
Alan Tadd
BJ7 (UK)
-----Original Message-----
From: CAWS52803@aol.com <CAWS52803@aol.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>;
british-cars@autox.team.net <british-cars@autox.team.net>
Date: 29 August 2000 13:28
Subject: Did you name your home?
>
>Hi Listers,
>I found out that many of you name your cars, but how many of you name your
>homes? I recently wrote to Patrick Quinn in Australia and I believe his
home
>is called "Wongaburra". Donald Healey and his family of John & Joy live at
>"Bridge House". Bic & Mary at "Trebourne". John & Heather Wheatley at
>"Shelsley House". Former Rev Counter editors, Gordon & Joyce Pearce at
>"Gazebo".
>On the columns in front of our home is a plaque that says, "Our Healey
>Haven", but that isn't the name, just a statement.
>Rudy Streng in NC
>
From "Scheuble, Fred J. ,HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 15:01:58 -0400
Subject: RE: Tacho/revs/tyre sizes
acrobat will do it
-----Original Message-----
From: Simon Lachlan [mailto:simon.lachlan@virginnet.co.uk]
Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2000 2:07 PM
To: Healeys
Subject: Tacho/revs/tyre sizes
In response to the posting of a .pdf file elucidating all
the above:-
Thanks for the posting.
Could someone remind me what I use to read .pdf files? Is it Acrobat?
(I'm sure I've done it in the past-just forgotten).
Assuming one has the chart, can one adjust one's own tacho??
Mine is a mwchanical from a MkII BT7.
Your's,
S.D.Lachlan,
Comfort House,
Bradninch,
Devon EX5 4NN.
Tel. 01392-882248
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 14:09:26 -0500
Subject: Re: gear balancing
Sounds like snake oil to me Ken.... but what do I know...
Seriously I am spinning my Motors in the 8500 to 9000 grand range and
wouldn't even think about Balancing the gears.. and it's the syncro's that
make it smooth.... IMHO
Keith
----------
> From: Freese, Ken <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
> To: 'healeys' <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: gear balancing
> Date: Tuesday, August 29, 2000 1:38 PM
>
>
> I just heard about balancing the gears in the transmission for smoother
> shifting. Something new to me. Is this another demon tweak that really
> couldn't be felt? What would be the weight requirement?
> Ken Freese
> 65 BJ8
From Olin Kane <kanes at frontier.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 13:18:43 -0600
Subject: Distributor Question
Does the 25D6 distributor have a takeoff for a mechanical tach?
Olin Kane
BJ7
Durango, CO
From "McNamara" <mcnamara at wcnet.org>
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 17:07:26 -0400
Subject: WANTED: Bugeye project
Hello,
I am looking for a solid Bugeye project to restore. Hope to find locally in
the Northwest Ohio, Michigan, Indiana area. Please e-mail off line at
mcnamara@wcnet.org.
Thanks
Dan
From "Alan Tadd" <Alan at tadd1.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 22:19:08 +0100
Subject: Re: Tacho/revs/tyre sizes
Simon...It is Acrobat
Alan Tadd
BJ7 (UK)
-----Original Message-----
From: Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@virginnet.co.uk>
To: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: 29 August 2000 19:43
Subject: Tacho/revs/tyre sizes
>
>In response to the posting of a .pdf file elucidating all
>the above:-
>Thanks for the posting.
>Could someone remind me what I use to read .pdf files? Is it Acrobat?
>(I'm sure I've done it in the past-just forgotten).
>
>Assuming one has the chart, can one adjust one's own tacho??
>Mine is a mwchanical from a MkII BT7.
>
>
>Your's,
>
>S.D.Lachlan,
>Comfort House,
>Bradninch,
>Devon EX5 4NN.
>Tel. 01392-882248
>
From Sprite60 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 18:42:41 EDT
Subject: Re: Oh Dear - my O/D just clicks
Had a problem with my OD when i got the BJ8 running. When I put the OD on,
and put my hand on the shift lever the OD kicked in. When I took my hand off
the OD went off. The plastic bushing at the bottom of the shift lever had
worn to nothing. Changed the bushing and it worked fine. Cost was CHEAP.
LARRY G
From "RR Moss" <rr_moss at hotmail.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 22:52:32 GMT
Subject: The David McLavin, Andrew Tipping book "Austin-Healey,
>
>The David McLavin, Andrew Tipping book "Austin-Healey, 100 & 3000 covers
the
>
>HMC MkIV with good pictures and explanations. The book also has other
>replicas, and the later Sebring 3000 cars and even good pictures of the
3000
>
>coupes. very good photos and story of the 4000 with the Rolls engine.
Even
>the rusted out BN3 is there.
>I recommend that book for it's very nice photography overall too.
>
Hello,
Are the photos of the suspension mounts modification correct for the period
rally cars?
Regards,
Ralph.
_________________________________________________________________________
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From "Tim Moran" <timoran at ticnet.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 18:01:29 -0500
Subject: Engine to Ground Speed Calculator
8-29-2000
Guys,
I have uploaded an Engine (Tachometer) to Ground Speed (Speedometer)
calculator to the North Texas Austin Healey Club Web Site.
www.ntahc.austin1.com
It is an Microsoft Excel file which will allow you to input your:
1) Transmission Ratio
2) Tire Diameter
3) Rear Axle Ratio
4) Engine RPM
As you move from cell to cell making your inputs, the calculator will
automatically update.
Pressing ENTER after your last change will calculate your Engine speed to
Ground speed.
CHANGE ONLY the numbers in RED, on the RIGHT ! ! !
Do NOT change any of the BLACK or BLUE verbiage on the left.
If you accidentally change something that you didn't intend to, when you
exit Excel, Just Say NO to "Save Changes". If you lose the file, come back
to the NTAHC web site and get it again.
To get it and use it, RIGHT click ... I repeat RIGHT click on the title of
the calculator (in BLUE) Click on "Save Target As".
Tell your computer where to save the file RATIO.xls (maybe to a floppy?)
Open Excel, find the file, calculate or in Windows Explorer, find the file
and double click on it.
Enjoy it,
If you have trouble getting or using it, Email me and I'll be glad to help
you.
Tim Moran.... Yes, THAT Tim Moran
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 20:16:48 EDT
Subject: Re: Guages
In a message dated 08/29/2000 1:35:54 PM Central Daylight Time,
lanej@mossmotors.com writes:
<< who swear by Mo-Ma. >>
Jon, I AM gonna let the "secret" out (to those whom have not dealt with them):
Owner of Mo-Ma is one Margaret LUCAS !! Noe, to whom ELSE would you intrust
your stuff to???
Cheers................
Ed
PS: She does ALL my work. PERIOD. Tried others. NOT.
From "JISah102" <ah102 at home.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 20:18:08 -0400
Subject: Re: gear balancing
Keith
If you are spinning at 8.5 to 9 million, I doubt any amount of balancing
would help...but what do I know.....
You did mean 8500 to 9000 RPM,,,Right?
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: Keith Turk <kturk@ala.net>
To: Freese, Ken <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>; 'healeys' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2000 3:09 PM
Subject: Re: gear balancing
>
> Sounds like snake oil to me Ken.... but what do I know...
>
> Seriously I am spinning my Motors in the 8500 to 9000 grand range and
> wouldn't even think about Balancing the gears.. and it's the syncro's that
> make it smooth.... IMHO
>
> Keith
>
> ----------
> > From: Freese, Ken <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
> > To: 'healeys' <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Subject: gear balancing
> > Date: Tuesday, August 29, 2000 1:38 PM
> >
> >
> > I just heard about balancing the gears in the transmission for smoother
> > shifting. Something new to me. Is this another demon tweak that really
> > couldn't be felt? What would be the weight requirement?
> > Ken Freese
> > 65 BJ8
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 20:38:37 EDT
Subject: Re: gear balancing
In a message dated 08/29/2000 2:09:54 PM Central Daylight Time, kturk@ala.net
writes:
<< Sounds like snake oil to me Ken.... >>
But, Keith, why would I think that the guys (even in IRL) from CART, F1,
NASCAR, Busch, etc. take the time to do it??
A NASCAR car pilot at "The Glen" without a REALLY "built" box = history!
right??
Ed
PS: Even tho I don't think they turn 90K r's!!??!!??<G>
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 20:19:48 -0500
Subject: Re: Engine to Ground Speed Calculator
hi tim-
WOW !! i'm impressed. i started trying this on the iopener and it almost had
a meltdown.
i've always done these calculations on the road using the mile markers and a
stop watch. 3000 rpm on the bn6 in 4th od is 75 mph and surprisingly enough
the smith's speedo reads amazingly close to that number with a steady needle.
keep it between the lines,
jerry
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Moran" <timoran@ticnet.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Engine to Ground Speed Calculator
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 18:01:29 -0500
8-29-2000
Guys,
I have uploaded an Engine (Tachometer) to Ground Speed (Speedometer)
calculator to the North Texas Austin Healey Club Web Site.
www.ntahc.austin1.com
It is an Microsoft Excel file which will allow you to input your:
1) Transmission Ratio
2) Tire Diameter
3) Rear Axle Ratio
4) Engine RPM
As you move from cell to cell making your inputs, the calculator will
automatically update.
Pressing ENTER after your last change will calculate your Engine speed to
Ground speed.
CHANGE ONLY the numbers in RED, on the RIGHT ! ! !
Do NOT change any of the BLACK or BLUE verbiage on the left.
If you accidentally change something that you didn't intend to, when you
exit Excel, Just Say NO to "Save Changes". If you lose the file, come back
to the NTAHC web site and get it again.
To get it and use it, RIGHT click ... I repeat RIGHT click on the title of
the calculator (in BLUE) Click on "Save Target As".
Tell your computer where to save the file RATIO.xls (maybe to a floppy?)
Open Excel, find the file, calculate or in Windows Explorer, find the file
and double click on it.
Enjoy it,
If you have trouble getting or using it, Email me and I'll be glad to help
you.
Tim Moran.... Yes, THAT Tim Moran
From Csooch1 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 21:34:26 EDT
Subject: Re: gear balancing
Ken,
For our low revving street cars it would just be an expensive waste. If you
are building a 19,000 RPM F1 engine (like Ferrari), with pneumatic valve
trains, etc....a few grams out of balance in the gearbox is quite a problem.
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
XJ6
<< I just heard about balancing the gears in the transmission for smoother
shifting. Something new to me. Is this another demon tweak that really
couldn't be felt? What would be the weight requirement?
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
>>
From "David Brown" <david at cablelogic.com.au>
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 09:35:28 +0800
Subject: Fuel Pump
Hi,
I am having trouble with the fuel pump on my 1960 BT7 MK1, I have checked
the basic things ie; voltage, fuel level, clogged fuel filter but still
having problems.
The story so far....I just had the carbs reconditioned by a company that
does work on a few healeys here in West. Aust and apparently once the carbs
were replaced and tuned they had trouble with the pump not sending any /
enough fuel through. Mind you prior to entering the workshop the pump had
not missed a beat!
They put a new pump on and everthing ran well for 15 miles then she started
to cough and splutter and finally give up. After much invetsigating it was
found that there wasnt any fuel getting to the carbs so I turned to the
pump. Yes there was fuel in the tank and the pump did the usual clicking
when the ignition was turned on. The car would start and idle for about 30
seconds then start to cough / splutter, if aceleration was applied it would
die immediately. When she started to die if I tap the fuel pump it clicks
and the engine springs back into life.
Appears to me that this new fuel pump is faulty????
Any suggestions before I remove it and abuse the mechanic.
TIA
David Brown
From "Eugene R. Montresor" <ermontresor at snet.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 21:46:26 -0400
Subject: bleeding brakes
I just completed rebuild brake system (girling servo,still waiting for
plastic filter and filter cover - back order from British Car
Spec.--slow boat from UK, ss brake lines ready for fluid
....silicone..just kidding. Castrol/GTLMA. What is the bleeding
proceedure? I bought a brake bleeding pump thinking it would be of help
since the last time I had to bleed my MGB brakes, my wife, Beverly Jean
was the brake pumper..she remembers that so now she won't help me even
after I named my car after her..
gene
64 Beverly Jean 8 (first time Healey owner, acquired 9/99 never driven
as yet, still in the rebuilding phase)
x 66, 69, 63 MGB
x xj6
From Alex Hope <ahope at jaques.com.au>
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 13:21:24 +1000
Subject: RE: Fuel Pump
If your filter gause on the inlet side of the pump is full check there's
no rust scale or anything in your tank.
My BN1 tank had lost of rubish in it.
I put a length of chain in the tank, rattled it around to loosen any
scale, flushed it out and put a tank sealant in it.
Never had a problem when I went to fire up the car.
The tank sealant I used gave off nasty fumes. (I got high as a kite
after inhaling the fumes, out of action for a couple of hours !)
Alex Hope
Australia
Ph : 03 9864 5476
Fax : 03 9821 0285
Mob: 0407 049 623
> -----Original Message-----
> From: David Brown [SMTP:david@cablelogic.com.au]
> Sent: Wednesday, 30 August 2000 11:35
> To: healeys
> Subject: Fuel Pump
>
>
> Hi,
> I am having trouble with the fuel pump on my 1960 BT7 MK1, I have
> checked
> the basic things ie; voltage, fuel level, clogged fuel filter but
> still
> having problems.
>
> The story so far....I just had the carbs reconditioned by a company
> that
> does work on a few healeys here in West. Aust and apparently once the
> carbs
> were replaced and tuned they had trouble with the pump not sending any
> /
> enough fuel through. Mind you prior to entering the workshop the pump
> had
> not missed a beat!
> They put a new pump on and everthing ran well for 15 miles then she
> started
> to cough and splutter and finally give up. After much invetsigating it
> was
> found that there wasnt any fuel getting to the carbs so I turned to
> the
> pump. Yes there was fuel in the tank and the pump did the usual
> clicking
> when the ignition was turned on. The car would start and idle for
> about 30
> seconds then start to cough / splutter, if aceleration was applied it
> would
> die immediately. When she started to die if I tap the fuel pump it
> clicks
> and the engine springs back into life.
>
> Appears to me that this new fuel pump is faulty????
> Any suggestions before I remove it and abuse the mechanic.
>
> TIA
>
> David Brown
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 20:33:17 -0500
Subject: Re: Guages
Ed
Margaret Lucas is one fine and helpful individual, the workmanship is
excellent.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
JustBrits@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 08/29/2000 1:35:54 PM Central Daylight Time,
> lanej@mossmotors.com writes:
>
> << who swear by Mo-Ma. >>
>
> Jon, I AM gonna let the "secret" out (to those whom have not dealt with them):
>
> Owner of Mo-Ma is one Margaret LUCAS !! Noe, to whom ELSE would you intrust
> your stuff to???
>
> Cheers................
>
> Ed
>
> PS: She does ALL my work. PERIOD. Tried others. NOT.
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 21:21:56 -0500
Subject: Re: gear balancing
Okay Ed..... ... send a Healey gearbox out and have it Dyno'ed.... then have
it Balanced and tell me about the 1hp you saved....when you test it
afterward.... and I will bet you most of it was in the New Bearings you put
in it....
I run a Nascar T-10.... Okay a Stage III Tex Racing Rendition of the
Richmond Gear Super T-I0.... and I have swapped Gears several times and
never considered Balancing it.... But.... again what do I know....
When folks ask me about Healey stuff for Racing... I send them to folks that
Know Healey Racing... not my buddies that know how to go fast.... Most of
our Hero's here on this list want a Well functioning car... NOT a RACE
car...
So my answer is to Spend your dollars wisely.... Balance the Motor.... Flip
the guy a Tip for taking a couple of extra minutes with it.... that is money
well spend.... Snake oil like Balancing a Gear Box is just not in the
interest of the average or super average Man...
Keith Turk.... ( 100 Bugeye Box Sprites and 2 Two Hundred Mile an Hour
Club Entries....)
----- Original Message -----
From: <JustBrits@aol.com>
To: <kturk@ala.net>; <Ken.Freese@aerojet.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2000 7:38 PM
Subject: Re: gear balancing
> In a message dated 08/29/2000 2:09:54 PM Central Daylight Time,
kturk@ala.net
> writes:
>
> << Sounds like snake oil to me Ken.... >>
>
> But, Keith, why would I think that the guys (even in IRL) from CART, F1,
> NASCAR, Busch, etc. take the time to do it??
>
> A NASCAR car pilot at "The Glen" without a REALLY "built" box = history!
> right??
>
> Ed
>
> PS: Even tho I don't think they turn 90K r's!!??!!??<G>
>
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 20:51:31 -0500
Subject: Re: Did you name your home?
Rudy
Our house is "Carlow Cottage" after the county where the family immigrated
from in south east Ireland. My BJ8 is "Mistyblue" after our late Norwegian
Forest cat (she was very special) and my Morgan 4/4 is "Topaz" after a male
Abby who once graced our home.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 22:16:34 -0500
Subject: Re: gear balancing
hear, hear or is it here, here -- whatever !!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Turk" <kturk@ala.net>
To: <JustBrits@aol.com>, <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: gear balancing
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 21:21:56 -0500
Okay Ed..... ... send a Healey gearbox out and have it Dyno'ed.... then have
it Balanced and tell me about the 1hp you saved....when you test it
afterward.... and I will bet you most of it was in the New Bearings you put
in it....
I run a Nascar T-10.... Okay a Stage III Tex Racing Rendition of the
Richmond Gear Super T-I0.... and I have swapped Gears several times and
never considered Balancing it.... But.... again what do I know....
When folks ask me about Healey stuff for Racing... I send them to folks that
Know Healey Racing... not my buddies that know how to go fast.... Most of
our Hero's here on this list want a Well functioning car... NOT a RACE
car...
So my answer is to Spend your dollars wisely.... Balance the Motor.... Flip
the guy a Tip for taking a couple of extra minutes with it.... that is money
well spend.... Snake oil like Balancing a Gear Box is just not in the
interest of the average or super average Man...
Keith Turk.... ( 100 Bugeye Box Sprites and 2 Two Hundred Mile an Hour
Club Entries....)
----- Original Message -----
From: <JustBrits@aol.com>
To: <kturk@ala.net>; <Ken.Freese@aerojet.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2000 7:38 PM
Subject: Re: gear balancing
> In a message dated 08/29/2000 2:09:54 PM Central Daylight Time,
kturk@ala.net
> writes:
>
> << Sounds like snake oil to me Ken.... >>
>
> But, Keith, why would I think that the guys (even in IRL) from CART, F1,
> NASCAR, Busch, etc. take the time to do it??
>
> A NASCAR car pilot at "The Glen" without a REALLY "built" box = history!
> right??
>
> Ed
>
> PS: Even tho I don't think they turn 90K r's!!??!!??<G>
>
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 23:23:34 EDT
Subject: Re: Re: gear balancing
In a message dated 8/29/00 7:36:31 PM, kturk@ala.net wrote:
<<> But, Keith, why would I think that the guys (even in IRL) from CART, F1,
> NASCAR, Busch, etc. take the time to do it??>>
Gear balancing promotes longer life...
...in those applications where them suckers are really turning fast. Problems
like disintegration are what can happen to a heavily stressed gearbox at
ultra high RPM.
Not really snake oil, but not so much for HP either.
Rick
San Diego
From Fred Crowley <oldwolf at airmail.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 23:22:07 -0500
Subject: Re: Tacho/revs/tyre sizes
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--------------993A79B5A236EAE8A9A07C33
Y'all might want to check out an on-line calculator to determine speed for
any size tire, gear ratio, and RPM at www.teamhealeytexas.com.
Regards Fred
Alan Tadd wrote:
> Simon...It is Acrobat
> Alan Tadd
> BJ7 (UK)
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@virginnet.co.uk>
> To: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 29 August 2000 19:43
> Subject: Tacho/revs/tyre sizes
>
> >
> >In response to the posting of a .pdf file elucidating all
> >the above:-
> >Thanks for the posting.
> >Could someone remind me what I use to read .pdf files? Is it Acrobat?
> >(I'm sure I've done it in the past-just forgotten).
> >
> >Assuming one has the chart, can one adjust one's own tacho??
> >Mine is a mwchanical from a MkII BT7.
> >
> >
> >Your's,
> >
> >S.D.Lachlan,
> >Comfort House,
> >Bradninch,
> >Devon EX5 4NN.
> >Tel. 01392-882248
> >
--------------993A79B5A236EAE8A9A07C33
name="oldwolf.vcf"
Content-Description: Card for Fred Crowley
Content-Disposition: attachment;
filename="oldwolf.vcf"
begin:vcard
n:Crowley;Fred
x-mozilla-html:FALSE
org:Corinthian Vintage Auto Racing
adr:;;;;;;
version:2.1
email;internet:oldwolf@airmail.net
title:Team Healey Texas
fn:Fred Crowley
end:vcard
--------------993A79B5A236EAE8A9A07C33--
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 03:00:57 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump
David
Fuel Pump is OK. Carbs are OK, although you might check the float levels just
to be sure. (If the tangs are bent so the float chambers only fill partially,
your description make some sense.
Most likely your problem is an airleak between the pickup in the tank and the
pump.
Here's what happens - the pump pumps - clicks - and pumps fuel until the float
chambers are full and the float valves close. You start the engine and as the
level in the float chambers drops the pump starts pumping but it is also
sucking air, probably where the pickup passes through the flange on the tank or
at the banjo fitting at the inlet side of the pump. So the pump doesn't pump
enough fuel to keep up with consumption at more RPMs than idle.
You go for a drive with full float chambers and the car runs nicely until one
of the float chambers runs dry - the one furthest from the gas line (toward
the firewall) and t the three or two cylinders(if yours is a Tri-Carb) fed by
the pump stop firing. At idle the pump can just about keep up with consumption
but when you rev up the engine you suck the last of the juice out of the other
carb. After the engine dies and you turn the key back on the pump refills both
chambers, - but slowly.
Check this by disconnecting the gasline at the first carb and I think you'll
see gas Plus bubbles and the flow rate will be miniscule.
So replace the pickup itself and install a new gasket and replace the line from
the end of the pickup to the pump and make sure the hose clamps are tight.
Let the List know if this is a Fix.
DickB
---- you wrote:
>
> Hi,
> I am having trouble with the fuel pump on my 1960 BT7 MK1, I have checked
> the basic things ie; voltage, fuel level, clogged fuel filter but still
> having problems.
>
> The story so far....I just had the carbs reconditioned by a company that
> does work on a few healeys here in West. Aust and apparently once the carbs
> were replaced and tuned they had trouble with the pump not sending any /
> enough fuel through. Mind you prior to entering the workshop the pump had
> not missed a beat!
> They put a new pump on and everthing ran well for 15 miles then she started
> to cough and splutter and finally give up. After much invetsigating it was
> found that there wasnt any fuel getting to the carbs so I turned to the
> pump. Yes there was fuel in the tank and the pump did the usual clicking
> when the ignition was turned on. The car would start and idle for about 30
> seconds then start to cough / splutter, if aceleration was applied it would
> die immediately. When she started to die if I tap the fuel pump it clicks
> and the engine springs back into life.
>
> Appears to me that this new fuel pump is faulty????
> Any suggestions before I remove it and abuse the mechanic.
>
> TIA
>
> David Brown
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 03:25:10 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: BN6 Electrical Gremlins
John
I agree with John Trifari that you should check and remake all of the
connections at the front of the car. If your body shop removed the marker
lights for the paint job (and they even may have removed the grille) they could
very well have just pushed the bullet connectors together haphazardly. And do
all of the other checks he suggested. If you still have problems,----
I suspect that they pulled the steering column up while the trafficator
harness was binding.
Inside the head of the trafficator there are four small wires - two green (with
lt green and blue tracers) and two brown - the horn grounds. The horn is
actuated by the button joining the two brown wires, one of which is Hot i.e.
continuous with the battery (either + or - depending on how your car is wired).
The other brown wire carries the ground to the ground side of the horns.
All four wires have small ring connectors crimped on their ends and these four
rings are screwed to a contact plate.
If the steering column is pulled all the way Up and the harness itself is
binding in the stator tube, there will be a strain on the ring connectors
and/or the wires themselves will pull away from their
insulation. The wires will the be able to touch each other, especially when
you rotate the trafficator lever. The fact that you get a beep of the horn
when you swing the lever indicates that you are mechanically touching the brown
wires to each other momentarily and those brown wires may be also touching the
green wires as well.
Opening the head is a job but can be done if you are careful. You'll have to
straighten the stakes that hold the head tube to the head in order the get at
the three screws that hold it together but then you are home free. On
reassembly make sure the lever is at 12 o'clock and the canceling dog is at 6
o'clock when you slide the head tube into the stator tube With The Wheels
Pointed Straight Ahead.
Finally, make sure that there is at least six-eight inches of the harness
sticking straight out of the end of the stator tube and you might slather that
section with grease to help it slide freely in and out.
Good Luck
DickB
---- you wrote:
>
> John--start with the connection between the trafficator harness and the
> main harness. You will find the conenctions in front of the front cross
> piece under the grill/radiator. It would seem to me that someting is
> cross connected. The horn is independent of the lights, so there should
> be no horn activity if you move the trafficator lever. Start simple:
> Pull all the connections at the cross piece and then re connect the horn
> ground lines (brown with black) and test. Make sure you have a fuse in
> the A1-A2 fuse terminal. If horn works OK, reconnect the directional
> lines (green/green w ltgreen/green w blue). Green is power in. Be
> careful of the green with light green and the green wires. They are
> easily confused and the result will be no directonals on the left if
> they are not properly connected. You may have to clean off the wires to
> see the color codes. Test as you go along.
>
> The marker lights have no connection with the trafficator. These are red
> wires, but from your description it would appear that somehow they have
> been integrated into the horn/directional circuit. If you find red
> lines at the trafficator harness, disconnect them. They should be
> connectged by pigtails to the lamp sockets in front. Check the marker
> lamps/fixtures and be sure that the red line is connected to the dimmer
> of the two terminals. A common problem is having the market lamp
> attached to the brighter directional temrinal. Check the same at the
> rear lights.
>
> Finally. would check the fuse bloc. It wold seem to me that in addition
> to everything else, something may not be connected properly there. You
> have four terminals: A1-A2 and A3-A4. A brown wire runs to A1. Two
> brown with green wires run from A2 to the horns. That's all. Three
> white wires run into A3--one from the ignition, one to the fuel pump,
> and one to the overdrive. A4 is a "double" connection and all tthe
> green wires are attached there, including the fuel gauge sending unit.
> Make sure all the wires are correctly connected.
>
> The trick in gneral is to seperate things and then to reconnect.
> Remember that all circuits are separate, so that if you have a
> "crossover' problem, you want to go to the place where the crossover can
> occur. Also remmeber that the A1-A2 fuse is hot--it is on even if the
> ignition is off, so be careful, and if necessary disconnect the
> battery. Finally, consult you wiring diagram for more info. Hope all
> this helps and that you're back on the road soon. John Trifari 1955
> BN1/1965 BJ8
>
> jclose@sduhsd.k12.ca.us wrote:
> >
> > Hello again, listers - My Healey recently came back from the body/paint
>shop,
> > and, though it looks great, as I began re-connecting electrical devices, I
>found
> > that it picked up a few electrical maladies while it was away. To give you
>a few
> > laughs and to solicit advice, I will share my troubles with you. Troubles
> > follow:
> >
> > 1. When I pull the light switch out one click, all 4 marker lights
>illuminate,
> > but very dimly.
> >
> > 2. When I turn on the ignition switch and move the trafficator switch to the
> > right, the horn sounds briefly, and all but the right front marker light
>flash;
> > flashing will not cease, no matter the position of the trafficator switch,
>until
> > I turn off the ignition.
> >
> > 3. Now that the marker lights are connected, the fuel gage has ceased
>working,
> > except when I push the horn button (which still sounds the horn, by the
>way.)
> >
> > 4. Some additional clues - The trafficator switch had been pushed up
>against the
> > steering wheel boss, and the 50 amp fuse had blown, when I got the car back.
> > Have not yet connected headlights - perhaps that makes a difference?
> >
> > So much going wrong here - makes me feel like a mosquito at a nudist colony
>-
> > don't know where to start. Your suggestions will be much appreciated.
>Thanks -
> > John, San Diego
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 03:24:45 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: BN6 Electrical Gremlins
John
I agree with John Trifari that you should check and remake all of the
connections at the front of the car. If your body shop removed the marker
lights for the paint job (and they even may have removed the grille) they could
very well have just pushed the bullet connectors together haphazardly. And do
all of the other checks he suggested. If you still have problems,----
I suspect that they pulled the steering column up while the trafficator
harness was binding.
Inside the head of the trafficator there are four small wires - two green (with
lt green and blue tracers) and two brown - the horn grounds. The horn is
actuated by the button joining the two brown wires, one of which is Hot i.e.
continuous with the battery (either + or - depending on how your car is wired).
The other brown wire carries the ground to the ground side of the horns.
All four wires have small ring connectors crimped on their ends and these four
rings are screwed to a contact plate.
If the steering column is pulled all the way Up and the harness itself is
binding in the stator tube, there will be a strain on the ring connectors
and/or the wires themselves will pull away from their
insulation. The wires will the be able to touch each other, especially when
you rotate the trafficator lever. The fact that you get a beep of the horn
when you swing the lever indicates that you are mechanically touching the brown
wires to each other momentarily and those brown wires may be also touching the
green wires as well.
Opening the head is a job but can be done if you are careful. You'll have to
straighten the stakes that hold the head tube to the head in order the get at
the three screws that hold it together but then you are home free. On
reassembly make sure the lever is at 12 o'clock and the canceling dog is at 6
o'clock when you slide the head tube into the stator tube With The Wheels
Pointed Straight Ahead.
Finally, make sure that there is at least six-eight inches of the harness
sticking straight out of the end of the stator tube and you might slather that
section with grease to help it slide freely in and out.
Good Luck
DickB
---- you wrote:
>
> John--start with the connection between the trafficator harness and the
> main harness. You will find the conenctions in front of the front cross
> piece under the grill/radiator. It would seem to me that someting is
> cross connected. The horn is independent of the lights, so there should
> be no horn activity if you move the trafficator lever. Start simple:
> Pull all the connections at the cross piece and then re connect the horn
> ground lines (brown with black) and test. Make sure you have a fuse in
> the A1-A2 fuse terminal. If horn works OK, reconnect the directional
> lines (green/green w ltgreen/green w blue). Green is power in. Be
> careful of the green with light green and the green wires. They are
> easily confused and the result will be no directonals on the left if
> they are not properly connected. You may have to clean off the wires to
> see the color codes. Test as you go along.
>
> The marker lights have no connection with the trafficator. These are red
> wires, but from your description it would appear that somehow they have
> been integrated into the horn/directional circuit. If you find red
> lines at the trafficator harness, disconnect them. They should be
> connectged by pigtails to the lamp sockets in front. Check the marker
> lamps/fixtures and be sure that the red line is connected to the dimmer
> of the two terminals. A common problem is having the market lamp
> attached to the brighter directional temrinal. Check the same at the
> rear lights.
>
> Finally. would check the fuse bloc. It wold seem to me that in addition
> to everything else, something may not be connected properly there. You
> have four terminals: A1-A2 and A3-A4. A brown wire runs to A1. Two
> brown with green wires run from A2 to the horns. That's all. Three
> white wires run into A3--one from the ignition, one to the fuel pump,
> and one to the overdrive. A4 is a "double" connection and all tthe
> green wires are attached there, including the fuel gauge sending unit.
> Make sure all the wires are correctly connected.
>
> The trick in gneral is to seperate things and then to reconnect.
> Remember that all circuits are separate, so that if you have a
> "crossover' problem, you want to go to the place where the crossover can
> occur. Also remmeber that the A1-A2 fuse is hot--it is on even if the
> ignition is off, so be careful, and if necessary disconnect the
> battery. Finally, consult you wiring diagram for more info. Hope all
> this helps and that you're back on the road soon. John Trifari 1955
> BN1/1965 BJ8
>
> jclose@sduhsd.k12.ca.us wrote:
> >
> > Hello again, listers - My Healey recently came back from the body/paint
>shop,
> > and, though it looks great, as I began re-connecting electrical devices, I
>found
> > that it picked up a few electrical maladies while it was away. To give you
>a few
> > laughs and to solicit advice, I will share my troubles with you. Troubles
> > follow:
> >
> > 1. When I pull the light switch out one click, all 4 marker lights
>illuminate,
> > but very dimly.
> >
> > 2. When I turn on the ignition switch and move the trafficator switch to the
> > right, the horn sounds briefly, and all but the right front marker light
>flash;
> > flashing will not cease, no matter the position of the trafficator switch,
>until
> > I turn off the ignition.
> >
> > 3. Now that the marker lights are connected, the fuel gage has ceased
>working,
> > except when I push the horn button (which still sounds the horn, by the
>way.)
> >
> > 4. Some additional clues - The trafficator switch had been pushed up
>against the
> > steering wheel boss, and the 50 amp fuse had blown, when I got the car back.
> > Have not yet connected headlights - perhaps that makes a difference?
> >
> > So much going wrong here - makes me feel like a mosquito at a nudist colony
>-
> > don't know where to start. Your suggestions will be much appreciated.
>Thanks -
> > John, San Diego
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 06:44:30 -0500
Subject: The 100
Been working so hard at the Bonneville thing... I forgot all about my
first Love.... The Truck was in the shop today for some Turbo work... and
I was going to snag a ride to work.... but then I thought about it a min and
decided to break the Hundred out of Storage and take it...
Quick trip around the block... and I was instant Smiles... I am off to get
ready and enjoy the 14 mile ride to work... Can't wait....
Keith.... ( everytime I drive this thing it reminds me to SMILE )
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 08:01:40 -0400
Subject: Re: Distributor Question
No. The tach take off for the earlier cars is on the distributor
pedestal not the distributor.
The TR6 distributor does however have the tach takeoff built in.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Olin Kane wrote:
> Does the 25D6 distributor have a takeoff for a mechanical tach?
>
> Olin Kane
> BJ7
> Durango, CO
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 08:07:37 -0400
Subject: Re: Oh Dear - my O/D just clicks
Hi Alan,
Not strictly correct on the solenoid diagnosis. The points in the top of
the solenoid serve to disconnect the "Pull" coil, therefore if they fail
the solenoid will only use a very low current and not pull the armature
up
strongly.
I have seen some sollenoids operate with just the hold coil but the
setup
on these is very critical. I believe this is where all the "If the
little
rubber stop is missing " ideas come from.
When the solenoid is working correctly it comes in with a serious clack
and the armature will pull in even if it is just into the solenoid
casing.
I would bet that you need a new solenoid.
MAKE SURE THAT YOU ADJUST IT CORRECTLY AFTER INSTALLATION.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Alan F Cross wrote:
> On my BJ8...
>
> Overdrive used to come in occasionally, then rarely, now never.
>
> I've checked and sorted all three switches (dash, gearbox, throttle),
> and put a lamp on the dash which proves I'm delivering 12v to the
> solenoid.
>
> With the engine off I can hear the solenoid (no, not the relay) go
> 'click' - but a pal's BJ8 goes with a good 'CLACK'. Am I right in
> suspecting the switch *inside* the solenoid, the one that reduces the
> actuating current to holding current? If the contacts had gone bad I'd
> only ever deliver the holding current.
>
> Does this sound familiar, and what sort of a job is it to fix it?
>
> Any other ideas?
>
> T I A.
> Alan F Cross
> Wokingham, Berkshire, UK
> H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny"
From Joseph Elmer <Joelmer at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 10:36:41 -0400
Subject: Re: Guages
Just used Mo-Ma to rehab a speedometer (BN1). Came back beautiful, works
perfect.
Joe Elmer.
"M.E. & E.A. Driver" wrote:
> Ed
>
> Margaret Lucas is one fine and helpful individual, the workmanship is
> excellent.
>
> Kind regards
> Ed
> Saskatoon
>
> JustBrits@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > In a message dated 08/29/2000 1:35:54 PM Central Daylight Time,
> > lanej@mossmotors.com writes:
> >
> > << who swear by Mo-Ma. >>
> >
> > Jon, I AM gonna let the "secret" out (to those whom have not dealt with
>them):
> >
> > Owner of Mo-Ma is one Margaret LUCAS !! Noe, to whom ELSE would you intrust
> > your stuff to???
> >
> > Cheers................
> >
> > Ed
> >
> > PS: She does ALL my work. PERIOD. Tried others. NOT.
From Joseph Elmer <Joelmer at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 10:40:57 -0400
Subject: Re: gear balancing
Chris: Might unbalanced gears exacerbate a shaft critical speed problem? Hig
rev's are not necessary to bend a underdesigned shaft. (This would have to be a
tweak that's at the very bottom of the list, however.) Joe.
Csooch1@aol.com wrote:
> Ken,
> For our low revving street cars it would just be an expensive waste. If you
> are building a 19,000 RPM F1 engine (like Ferrari), with pneumatic valve
> trains, etc....a few grams out of balance in the gearbox is quite a problem.
> Cheers,
> Chris
> BJ8
> XJ6
> << I just heard about balancing the gears in the transmission for smoother
> shifting. Something new to me. Is this another demon tweak that really
> couldn't be felt? What would be the weight requirement?
> Ken Freese
> 65 BJ8
> >>
From Joseph Elmer <Joelmer at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 10:46:56 -0400
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump
Dave: The diaphram could be cracked or the valve that prevents return flow
sticking open. Why no try a $40 solid state (NAPA or J.C. Whitney)? Joe
David Brown wrote:
> Hi,
> I am having trouble with the fuel pump on my 1960 BT7 MK1, I have checked
> the basic things ie; voltage, fuel level, clogged fuel filter but still
> having problems.
>
> The story so far....I just had the carbs reconditioned by a company that
> does work on a few healeys here in West. Aust and apparently once the carbs
> were replaced and tuned they had trouble with the pump not sending any /
> enough fuel through. Mind you prior to entering the workshop the pump had
> not missed a beat!
> They put a new pump on and everthing ran well for 15 miles then she started
> to cough and splutter and finally give up. After much invetsigating it was
> found that there wasnt any fuel getting to the carbs so I turned to the
> pump. Yes there was fuel in the tank and the pump did the usual clicking
> when the ignition was turned on. The car would start and idle for about 30
> seconds then start to cough / splutter, if aceleration was applied it would
> die immediately. When she started to die if I tap the fuel pump it clicks
> and the engine springs back into life.
>
> Appears to me that this new fuel pump is faulty????
> Any suggestions before I remove it and abuse the mechanic.
>
> TIA
>
> David Brown
From rfeibusch at loop.com (Richard Feibusch)
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 07:47:56 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Did you name your home?
Listers
We have a little triplex on Dimmick Ave. in Venice beach in West Los
Angeles that we have been remodeling for the last two years with an eye to
converting to a bed & breakfast some day. We are basicaly restoring a very
big 50 year old wood bodied car (I once owned a 50 year old wood bodied MG
but THAT is another story)). In fact we have traded our old car hobby for
an old house hobby (you know, we now watch more HGTV than HBO or
Speedvision!).
We call the place Dimmick House and even have had a brass address plaque
made (Restoration Hardware) that says "Dimmick House" in small letters,
"211" in big numbers and "est. 1950" in smaller letters at the bottom. I'm
not sure who Mr. Dimmick was in Los Angeles history but they only gave him
a block long street near the beach. The neighbours have given him a
commission and now he is called Admiral Dimmick. On the other hand one of
my SF Bay Area friends asked me why they would name a street after a slow
thinking Irishman? Those San Francisco folks are such snobs. Am I running
on? . . . . . . . . . . . . I guess I need some higher octane additive in
my coffee (Bushmills, Jamison???)
Cheers,
Rick Feibusch
Venice, CA
From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 08:23:05 -0700
Subject: Test your diagnostic powers
How about a bit of fun? Let's see how many of you can correctly diagnose
the problem and fix:
For 3 years I had a problem with my '61 MGA (I know, not strictly Healey but
close enough for this test) that was diagnosed incorrectly by competent
mechanics 3 times. The symptom was quite simple. I would be cruising along
the freeway, usually at highway speeds when the engine would simply die. The
car would give me just enough notice to safely pull to the side of the road.
It felt very much like the carbs weren't getting any gas. But they did get
enough to give me warning. I would wait less than 5 minutes by the side of
the road and then proceed. Sometimes it would happen again, sometimes not.
Whenever my mechanic would test drive the car, it was fine (of course).
This went on for almost 3 years before I finally gave up and sent the car to
my mechanic with orders not to return it until it was fixed. This problem
presented itself after a near frame up restoration with almost all new or
reconditioned parts. We inspected and replaced perfectly good hoses, fuel
lines, filters, the fuel pump!, checked the SU carbs, etc. So, what do
you all think was the cause of my A's mystery ailment?
I'll let you all know tomorrow. Coop aka Randy
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 08:49:58 -0700
Subject: Re: Test your diagnostic powers
gas cap vent problem?
-John
Coop1 wrote:
>
> How about a bit of fun? Let's see how many of you can correctly diagnose
> the problem and fix:
>
> For 3 years I had a problem with my '61 MGA (I know, not strictly Healey but
> close enough for this test) that was diagnosed incorrectly by competent
> mechanics 3 times. The symptom was quite simple. I would be cruising along
> the freeway, usually at highway speeds when the engine would simply die. The
> car would give me just enough notice to safely pull to the side of the road.
> It felt very much like the carbs weren't getting any gas. But they did get
> enough to give me warning. I would wait less than 5 minutes by the side of
> the road and then proceed. Sometimes it would happen again, sometimes not.
>
> Whenever my mechanic would test drive the car, it was fine (of course).
> This went on for almost 3 years before I finally gave up and sent the car to
> my mechanic with orders not to return it until it was fixed. This problem
> presented itself after a near frame up restoration with almost all new or
> reconditioned parts. We inspected and replaced perfectly good hoses, fuel
> lines, filters, the fuel pump!, checked the SU carbs, etc. So, what do
> you all think was the cause of my A's mystery ailment?
> I'll let you all know tomorrow. Coop aka Randy
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 08:52:26 -0700
Subject: smoother shifting/snakeoil
Hi all,
With the recent thread on balancing the gearbox and snakeoil, I wanted
to mention that I am using Redline MTL oil. Shifts feel smoother..
especially noticeable from first to second. The oil is expensive (around
$9.00 quart) but they claim it has a long service life.
All this being 'seat of the pants' endorsement, I'm curious if others
have had similar or differing results.
Regards,
John Loftus
Laguna Beach, CA
BJ7
From "Scheuble, Fred J. ,HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 12:01:14 -0400
Subject: RE: Test your diagnostic powers
vapor lock
-----Original Message-----
From: Coop1 [mailto:coop1@dnai.com]
Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2000 11:23 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Test your diagnostic powers
How about a bit of fun? Let's see how many of you can correctly diagnose
the problem and fix:
For 3 years I had a problem with my '61 MGA (I know, not strictly Healey but
close enough for this test) that was diagnosed incorrectly by competent
mechanics 3 times. The symptom was quite simple. I would be cruising along
the freeway, usually at highway speeds when the engine would simply die. The
car would give me just enough notice to safely pull to the side of the road.
It felt very much like the carbs weren't getting any gas. But they did get
enough to give me warning. I would wait less than 5 minutes by the side of
the road and then proceed. Sometimes it would happen again, sometimes not.
Whenever my mechanic would test drive the car, it was fine (of course).
This went on for almost 3 years before I finally gave up and sent the car to
my mechanic with orders not to return it until it was fixed. This problem
presented itself after a near frame up restoration with almost all new or
reconditioned parts. We inspected and replaced perfectly good hoses, fuel
lines, filters, the fuel pump!, checked the SU carbs, etc. So, what do
you all think was the cause of my A's mystery ailment?
I'll let you all know tomorrow. Coop aka Randy
From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 09:01:05 -0700
Subject: Re: Test your diagnostic powers
Sorry, I forgot to mention. As part of the restoration, we pulled, flushed
and reconditioned the fuel tank to like new. Coop
From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 09:30:28 -0700
Subject: Re: Test your diagnostic powers
Nope
----- Original Message -----
From: Scheuble, Fred J. ,HiServ/NA <fjscheuble@hiserv-na.com>
To: 'Coop1' <coop1@dnai.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2000 9:01 AM
Subject: RE: Test your diagnostic powers
>
> vapor lock
From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 09:31:03 -0700
Subject: Re: Test your diagnostic powers
----- Original Message -----
From: John Loftus <loftusdesign@home.com>
To: Coop1 <coop1@dnai.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2000 8:49 AM
Subject: Re: Test your diagnostic powers
>
> gas cap vent problem?
>
> -John
nope, not that. Coop
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 11:31:11 -0500
Subject: RE: smoother shifting/snakeoil
John,
While I haven't driven my Healey yet, I have put Redline MT-90 in the
tranny. This was based on a conversation with Redline (as it turns out,
their tech guy is very familiar with the Laycock O/D unit).
I do know that when I switched to Redline D4ATF oil in my daily driver,
things improved all around; noise level, synchro engagement and shifter
feel. By extrapolation then, I have similarly high expectations from the
MT-90 in the Healey.
Adnan
-----Original Message-----
From: John Loftus [mailto:loftusdesign@home.com]
Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2000 8:52 AM
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Subject: smoother shifting/snakeoil
Hi all,
With the recent thread on balancing the gearbox and snakeoil, I wanted
to mention that I am using Redline MTL oil. Shifts feel smoother..
especially noticeable from first to second. The oil is expensive (around
$9.00 quart) but they claim it has a long service life.
All this being 'seat of the pants' endorsement, I'm curious if others
have had similar or differing results.
Regards,
John Loftus
Laguna Beach, CA
BJ7
From "Edrick Adams" <je.adams at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 12:51:59 -0400
Subject: Re: smoother shifting/snakeoil
John,
Thanks for bringing this up. RedLine MTL has been recommended for manual
transmissions by SAAB corresponders for several years and I used it in my
Peugeot Mi16 for 100k+/-. Have been considering it for the A-H 100 thinking
that the non-slip version might help the synchronization, but curious as to
how the OD would behave.
-----Original Message-----
From: John Loftus <loftusdesign@home.com>
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net' <>
Date: Wednesday, August 30, 2000 12:01 PM
Subject: smoother shifting/snakeoil
>
>Hi all,
>
>With the recent thread on balancing the gearbox and snakeoil, I wanted
>to mention that I am using Redline MTL oil. Shifts feel smoother..
>especially noticeable from first to second. The oil is expensive (around
>$9.00 quart) but they claim it has a long service life.
>
>All this being 'seat of the pants' endorsement, I'm curious if others
>have had similar or differing results.
>
>Regards,
>John Loftus
>Laguna Beach, CA
>BJ7
>
From "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej at mossmotors.com>
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 09:35:59 -0700
Subject: RE: Test your diagnostic powers
How 'bout a bad coil?
-----Original Message-----
From: Coop1 [mailto:coop1@dnai.com]
Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2000 9:30 AM
To: Scheuble, Fred J. ,HiServ/NA; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Test your diagnostic powers
Nope
----- Original Message -----
From: Scheuble, Fred J. ,HiServ/NA <fjscheuble@hiserv-na.com>
To: 'Coop1' <coop1@dnai.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2000 9:01 AM
Subject: RE: Test your diagnostic powers
>
> vapor lock
From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 09:52:51 -0700
Subject: Test your diagnostic powers - The answer!
I know I said tomorrow but by then I'll need to buy a new computer to handle
the email traffic. Some of you were pretty darned close:
Hint 1: I said that the symptoms occured at high speed?
Hint 2: I said that the car had undergone full restoration?
Hint 3: After a rest at the side of the road she was fine
After the car was painted and reassembled, the body shop had a difficult
time installing the gas cap. MGA's have a stupid design gas cap with a
screw and washer exposed beneath the cap. They tend to loosen ovewr time.
The mechanic accidently dropped both screw and washer into freshly
refurbished tank filler tube while trying to reinstall the unit. He replaced
the screw and washer and never told me! Of course, it never occured to me
or any of the guys working on the car because everyone new I had a freshly
refurbished gas tank.
At speed, the fuel pump would suck the washer up against the fuel intake
inside the tank. Thus cutting off fuel supply. As soon as I stopped the car
the washer would settle down into the bottom of the tank waiting for the
next opportunity to piss me off. My mechanic couldn't get the thing to
misbehave because he never took it for a long drive at high speed. It
wasn't until we pulled the tank again and the screw and washer fell out that
the mystery was solved. Good fun guys, thanks.
Coop
From "Eyvind Larssen" <seel at online.no>
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 19:02:33 +0200
Subject: SV: Test your diagnostic powers
Subject: Test your diagnostic powers
My guess would be some kind of electrical problem. COULD be an overheating
coil. If not.. I'd go for a shortcircuit somewhere.. maybe in the distributor.
Eyvind Larssen 60BT7 (been there.. done that)
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 13:01:21 -0400
Subject: Re: Test your diagnostic powers
"Scheuble, Fred J. ,HiServ/NA" wrote:
> vapor lock
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Coop1 [mailto:coop1@dnai.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2000 11:23 AM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Test your diagnostic powers
>
> How about a bit of fun? Let's see how many of you can correctly diagnose
> the problem and fix:
>
> For 3 years I had a problem with my '61 MGA (I know, not strictly Healey but
> close enough for this test) that was diagnosed incorrectly by competent
> mechanics 3 times. The symptom was quite simple. I would be cruising along
> the freeway, usually at highway speeds when the engine would simply die. The
> car would give me just enough notice to safely pull to the side of the road.
> It felt very much like the carbs weren't getting any gas. But they did get
> enough to give me warning. I would wait less than 5 minutes by the side of
> the road and then proceed. Sometimes it would happen again, sometimes not.
>
> Whenever my mechanic would test drive the car, it was fine (of course).
> This went on for almost 3 years before I finally gave up and sent the car to
> my mechanic with orders not to return it until it was fixed. This problem
> presented itself after a near frame up restoration with almost all new or
> reconditioned parts. We inspected and replaced perfectly good hoses, fuel
> lines, filters, the fuel pump!, checked the SU carbs, etc. So, what do
> you all think was the cause of my A's mystery ailment?
> I'll let you all know tomorrow. Coop aka Randy
No vent in the fuel cap....?
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej at mossmotors.com>
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 10:01:30 -0700
Subject: RE: Test your diagnostic powers - The answer!
I should have known this one. The Healey I just bought was parked 15 years
ago for a similar problem. He had a huge wad of tape floating around in
there. How the hell does that happen??
-----Original Message-----
From: Coop1 [mailto:coop1@dnai.com]
Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2000 9:53 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Test your diagnostic powers - The answer!
I know I said tomorrow but by then I'll need to buy a new computer to handle
the email traffic. Some of you were pretty darned close:
Hint 1: I said that the symptoms occured at high speed?
Hint 2: I said that the car had undergone full restoration?
Hint 3: After a rest at the side of the road she was fine
After the car was painted and reassembled, the body shop had a difficult
time installing the gas cap. MGA's have a stupid design gas cap with a
screw and washer exposed beneath the cap. They tend to loosen ovewr time.
The mechanic accidently dropped both screw and washer into freshly
refurbished tank filler tube while trying to reinstall the unit. He replaced
the screw and washer and never told me! Of course, it never occured to me
or any of the guys working on the car because everyone new I had a freshly
refurbished gas tank.
At speed, the fuel pump would suck the washer up against the fuel intake
inside the tank. Thus cutting off fuel supply. As soon as I stopped the car
the washer would settle down into the bottom of the tank waiting for the
next opportunity to piss me off. My mechanic couldn't get the thing to
misbehave because he never took it for a long drive at high speed. It
wasn't until we pulled the tank again and the screw and washer fell out that
the mystery was solved. Good fun guys, thanks.
Coop
From Healybj8 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 13:14:52 EDT
Subject: Re: smoother shifting/snakeoil
I have put this in my '93 RX7. That transmission is inherently notchy, and the
stuff did improve shifting somewhat. I am not sure it is all it is cracked up
to be, but it does help the synchros slightly. Never bothered to put it in the
Healey as that thing seemed to be fine without it.
Tim Wallace
'67 BJ8
Fuquay-Varina, Nc
In a message dated Wed, 30 Aug 2000 11:56:36 AM Eastern Daylight Time, John
Loftus <loftusdesign@home.com> writes:
<<
Hi all,
With the recent thread on balancing the gearbox and snakeoil, I wanted
to mention that I am using Redline MTL oil. Shifts feel smoother..
especially noticeable from first to second. The oil is expensive (around
$9.00 quart) but they claim it has a long service life.
All this being 'seat of the pants' endorsement, I'm curious if others
have had similar or differing results.
Regards,
John Loftus
Laguna Beach, CA
BJ7
>>
From "Scheuble, Fred J. ,HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 13:28:11 -0400
Subject: RE: Test your diagnostic powers - The answer!
so it was vapor lockwasher! (wink)
-----Original Message-----
From: Coop1 [mailto:coop1@dnai.com]
Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2000 12:53 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Test your diagnostic powers - The answer!
I know I said tomorrow but by then I'll need to buy a new computer to handle
the email traffic. Some of you were pretty darned close:
Hint 1: I said that the symptoms occured at high speed?
Hint 2: I said that the car had undergone full restoration?
Hint 3: After a rest at the side of the road she was fine
After the car was painted and reassembled, the body shop had a difficult
time installing the gas cap. MGA's have a stupid design gas cap with a
screw and washer exposed beneath the cap. They tend to loosen ovewr time.
The mechanic accidently dropped both screw and washer into freshly
refurbished tank filler tube while trying to reinstall the unit. He replaced
the screw and washer and never told me! Of course, it never occured to me
or any of the guys working on the car because everyone new I had a freshly
refurbished gas tank.
At speed, the fuel pump would suck the washer up against the fuel intake
inside the tank. Thus cutting off fuel supply. As soon as I stopped the car
the washer would settle down into the bottom of the tank waiting for the
next opportunity to piss me off. My mechanic couldn't get the thing to
misbehave because he never took it for a long drive at high speed. It
wasn't until we pulled the tank again and the screw and washer fell out that
the mystery was solved. Good fun guys, thanks.
Coop
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 10:24:52 -0700
Subject: Re: smoother shifting/snakeoil
John, et. al. Here is an old email and reply I sent to Red Line regarding
MTL in the tranny.
I am getting ready to change the transmission and overdrive oil in a
1967 Austin Healey 3000. I was planning to use straight 30W,
non-detergent oil, but find it impossible to find. I've been told your
MTL product is good for this application.
Can you please confirm MTL is the proper choice for this car. The weight
of MTL seems much higher than would normally be used for this vehicle.
Thank you
Bill Katz
--
================================================================
In the Austin Healey 3000 transmission, I would recommend the Red Line
MT-90. Some of the overdrive units seem to work better with the MT-90.
The weight of the MTL is a 75W/80W gear oil or 5W30 motor oil, the MT-90 is
a 75W90 gear oil or 15W40 motor oil, so the viscosities are close to the
petroleum straight weight called for.
---------------------
At 09:51 AM 8/30/00 , you wrote:
>John,
>
>Thanks for bringing this up. RedLine MTL has been recommended for manual
>transmissions by SAAB corresponders for several years and I used it in my
>Peugeot Mi16 for 100k+/-. Have been considering it for the A-H 100 thinking
>that the non-slip version might help the synchronization, but curious as to
>how the OD would behave.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: John Loftus <loftusdesign@home.com>
>To: 'healeys@autox.team.net' <>
>Date: Wednesday, August 30, 2000 12:01 PM
>Subject: smoother shifting/snakeoil
>
>
> >
> >Hi all,
> >
> >With the recent thread on balancing the gearbox and snakeoil, I wanted
> >to mention that I am using Redline MTL oil. Shifts feel smoother..
> >especially noticeable from first to second. The oil is expensive (around
> >$9.00 quart) but they claim it has a long service life.
> >
> >All this being 'seat of the pants' endorsement, I'm curious if others
> >have had similar or differing results.
> >
> >Regards,
> >John Loftus
> >Laguna Beach, CA
> >BJ7
> >
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 11:48:47 -0600
Subject: Re: smoother shifting/snakeoil
Just to add some confusion to your decision. ATF II & III will work well
too, yep, it's ok for the O/D.
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
59 AH :{) 54 BN1
Click below for webpage and mopeds:
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2000 11:24 AM
Subject: Re: smoother shifting/snakeoil
>
> John, et. al. Here is an old email and reply I sent to Red Line regarding
> MTL in the tranny.
>
> I am getting ready to change the transmission and overdrive oil in a
> 1967 Austin Healey 3000. I was planning to use straight 30W,
> non-detergent oil, but find it impossible to find. I've been told your
> MTL product is good for this application.
>
> Can you please confirm MTL is the proper choice for this car. The weight
> of MTL seems much higher than would normally be used for this vehicle.
>
> Thank you
> Bill Katz
> --
> ================================================================
>
> In the Austin Healey 3000 transmission, I would recommend the Red Line
> MT-90. Some of the overdrive units seem to work better with the MT-90.
> The weight of the MTL is a 75W/80W gear oil or 5W30 motor oil, the MT-90
is
> a 75W90 gear oil or 15W40 motor oil, so the viscosities are close to the
> petroleum straight weight called for.
>
> ---------------------
> At 09:51 AM 8/30/00 , you wrote:
>
> >John,
> >
> >Thanks for bringing this up. RedLine MTL has been recommended for manual
> >transmissions by SAAB corresponders for several years and I used it in my
> >Peugeot Mi16 for 100k+/-. Have been considering it for the A-H 100
thinking
> >that the non-slip version might help the synchronization, but curious as
to
> >how the OD would behave.
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: John Loftus <loftusdesign@home.com>
> >To: 'healeys@autox.team.net' <>
> >Date: Wednesday, August 30, 2000 12:01 PM
> >Subject: smoother shifting/snakeoil
> >
> >
> > >
> > >Hi all,
> > >
> > >With the recent thread on balancing the gearbox and snakeoil, I wanted
> > >to mention that I am using Redline MTL oil. Shifts feel smoother..
> > >especially noticeable from first to second. The oil is expensive
(around
> > >$9.00 quart) but they claim it has a long service life.
> > >
> > >All this being 'seat of the pants' endorsement, I'm curious if others
> > >have had similar or differing results.
> > >
> > >Regards,
> > >John Loftus
> > >Laguna Beach, CA
> > >BJ7
> > >
>
>
From "Edrick Adams" <je.adams at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 14:13:04 -0400
Subject: Re: smoother shifting/snakeoil
Thanks all, for the good info! MT-90 it is.
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Katz <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <>
Date: Wednesday, August 30, 2000 1:37 PM
Subject: Re: smoother shifting/snakeoil
>
>John, et. al. Here is an old email and reply I sent to Red Line regarding
>MTL in the tranny.
>
>I am getting ready to change the transmission and overdrive oil in a
>1967 Austin Healey 3000. I was planning to use straight 30W,
>non-detergent oil, but find it impossible to find. I've been told your
>MTL product is good for this application.
>
>Can you please confirm MTL is the proper choice for this car. The weight
>of MTL seems much higher than would normally be used for this vehicle.
>
>Thank you
>Bill Katz
>--
>================================================================
>
>In the Austin Healey 3000 transmission, I would recommend the Red Line
>MT-90. Some of the overdrive units seem to work better with the MT-90.
>The weight of the MTL is a 75W/80W gear oil or 5W30 motor oil, the MT-90 is
>a 75W90 gear oil or 15W40 motor oil, so the viscosities are close to the
>petroleum straight weight called for.
>
>---------------------
>At 09:51 AM 8/30/00 , you wrote:
>
>>John,
>>
>>Thanks for bringing this up. RedLine MTL has been recommended for manual
>>transmissions by SAAB corresponders for several years and I used it in my
>>Peugeot Mi16 for 100k+/-. Have been considering it for the A-H 100
thinking
>>that the non-slip version might help the synchronization, but curious as
to
>>how the OD would behave.
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: John Loftus <loftusdesign@home.com>
>>To: 'healeys@autox.team.net' <>
>>Date: Wednesday, August 30, 2000 12:01 PM
>>Subject: smoother shifting/snakeoil
>>
>>
>> >
>> >Hi all,
>> >
>> >With the recent thread on balancing the gearbox and snakeoil, I wanted
>> >to mention that I am using Redline MTL oil. Shifts feel smoother..
>> >especially noticeable from first to second. The oil is expensive (around
>> >$9.00 quart) but they claim it has a long service life.
>> >
>> >All this being 'seat of the pants' endorsement, I'm curious if others
>> >have had similar or differing results.
>> >
>> >Regards,
>> >John Loftus
>> >Laguna Beach, CA
>> >BJ7
>> >
>
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 11:11:10 -0700
Subject: Re: smoother shifting/snakeoil
Hi Bill,
I've only driven 600 miles with the MTL but no problems so far with the
gearbox, OD or oil leaks.
The MTL oil package states, "Satisfies the gear oil viscosity
requirements of 70W, 75W, and 80, and motor oil viscosities SAE 30,
10W30 and 5W30." but I'm not going to argue with the source. Next time
around I'll try the MT-90.
Also, I forgot to mention another benefit. My gearbox has a worn first
gear that makes a moderately loud knock. After the MTL the knock is
noticeably quieter; even my navigator mentioned it without my prompting.
Thanks for the info.
John Loftus
Bill Katz wrote:
>
> John, et. al. Here is an old email and reply I sent to Red Line regarding
> MTL in the tranny.
>
> I am getting ready to change the transmission and overdrive oil in a
> 1967 Austin Healey 3000. I was planning to use straight 30W,
> non-detergent oil, but find it impossible to find. I've been told your
> MTL product is good for this application.
>
> Can you please confirm MTL is the proper choice for this car. The weight
> of MTL seems much higher than would normally be used for this vehicle.
>
> Thank you
> Bill Katz
> --
> ================================================================
>
> In the Austin Healey 3000 transmission, I would recommend the Red Line
> MT-90. Some of the overdrive units seem to work better with the MT-90.
> The weight of the MTL is a 75W/80W gear oil or 5W30 motor oil, the MT-90 is
> a 75W90 gear oil or 15W40 motor oil, so the viscosities are close to the
> petroleum straight weight called for.
>
> ---------------------
> At 09:51 AM 8/30/00 , you wrote:
>
> >John,
> >
> >Thanks for bringing this up. RedLine MTL has been recommended for manual
> >transmissions by SAAB corresponders for several years and I used it in my
> >Peugeot Mi16 for 100k+/-. Have been considering it for the A-H 100 thinking
> >that the non-slip version might help the synchronization, but curious as to
> >how the OD would behave.
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: John Loftus <loftusdesign@home.com>
> >To: 'healeys@autox.team.net' <>
> >Date: Wednesday, August 30, 2000 12:01 PM
> >Subject: smoother shifting/snakeoil
> >
> >
> > >
> > >Hi all,
> > >
> > >With the recent thread on balancing the gearbox and snakeoil, I wanted
> > >to mention that I am using Redline MTL oil. Shifts feel smoother..
> > >especially noticeable from first to second. The oil is expensive (around
> > >$9.00 quart) but they claim it has a long service life.
> > >
> > >All this being 'seat of the pants' endorsement, I'm curious if others
> > >have had similar or differing results.
> > >
> > >Regards,
> > >John Loftus
> > >Laguna Beach, CA
> > >BJ7
> > >
From GNpaper at aol.com
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 14:30:59 EDT
Subject: Re: smoother shifting/snakeoil
I have question for the list.
Yesterday I changed my oil for the second time after 1000 miles into a
complete engine rebuild on my BJ8. I used Castrol 10W40 and a Napa spin on
oil filter with my Moss purchased oil filter adapter. My oil pressure at idle
is 40 to 50, at 60 MPH with the overdrive engaged it reads 90 and sometimes
higher. Is this abnormal, and if so what might be the cause?
Thanks,
Dan Brooks
67 BJ8
From hm.heim at t-online.de (Helga & Martin Heim)
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 20:43:03 +0200
Subject: Targa Florio 1965
Hi all,
FYI, I received yesterday my VHS Video of 'Mountain Legend Targa Florio
1965' from Motorbooks UK. www.motorbooks.co.uk
Cost: £ 14.99 + P & P
I would guess it's in PAL System. Really great to see all these 'old' racing
cars. I have seen Timo Makinen waving to the camera man while driving the
works Healey so hard that the front left wheel is off the ground. Wow !
First thing I did yesterday, when retourning from work was to sit down in
front of the TV and watch the 43 minutes Targa Florio.
Best regards
Martin
Germany
From "Scheuble, Fred J. ,HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 15:17:33 -0400
Subject: RE: smoother shifting/snakeoil
this appears to be to high, 20~25 at idle, 50~60 @ 60
-----Original Message-----
From: GNpaper@aol.com [mailto:GNpaper@aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2000 2:31 PM
To: frogeye@gateway.net; bkatz@handsonresearch.com;
healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: smoother shifting/snakeoil
I have question for the list.
Yesterday I changed my oil for the second time after 1000 miles into a
complete engine rebuild on my BJ8. I used Castrol 10W40 and a Napa spin on
oil filter with my Moss purchased oil filter adapter. My oil pressure at
idle
is 40 to 50, at 60 MPH with the overdrive engaged it reads 90 and sometimes
higher. Is this abnormal, and if so what might be the cause?
Thanks,
Dan Brooks
67 BJ8
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 17:08:00 EDT
Subject: Re: smoother shifting/snakeoil
In a message dated 8/30/00 11:34:49 AM, GNpaper@aol.com writes:
<<
I have question for the list.
Yesterday I changed my oil for the second time after 1000 miles into a
complete engine rebuild on my BJ8. I used Castrol 10W40 and a Napa spin on
oil filter with my Moss purchased oil filter adapter. My oil pressure at idle
is 40 to 50, at 60 MPH with the overdrive engaged it reads 90 and sometimes
higher. Is this abnormal, and if so what might be the cause? >>
If you're getting a reading that high, then you almost certainly have a
problem with
the pressure release valve on your engine -- It is a bullet-shaped piece held
by a spring under a screw-out cap on the distributor side of the engine, and
is intended to keep the oil from circulating through the filter until good
pressure has been achieved at the top of the engine. Then (usually at around
60 lbs) the pressure forces the bullet thing back against the spring
sufficiently to allow the oil to enter the channel into the filter.
First thing to do is to remove that valve and check it out. it should slide
easily in and out, but may be hung up somehow, or the rebuilder may have used
the wrong style for your engine. If you don't find anything to explain why
it won't open, then check with the specialists to make sure you have the
right one for your engine.
Cheers
Gary
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 17:07:59 -0400
Subject: Re: Speed x RPM
Mike, Don, and Bob,
Remove the tach from the dash leaving all the wires attached. Pull out the
socket holding the illuminating bulb. Looking through the hole toward one
side you will see a white, plastic wheel of about the diameter of a dime.
On earlier BJ8s it has smooth perimeter, serrated on later BJ8s. With the
shop tach attached to the engine and engine runniing, use some nonconductive
device to rotate the wheel until your tach agrees with the shop tach.
Reattach tach to dash. Done! Works like a charm!
And Mike you said you would remember this method! :)
Keith Pennell
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael Salter <magicare@home.com>
To: <Bobsoniaharris@aol.com>; Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2000 9:04 AM
Subject: Re: Speed x RPM
>
> Bobsoniaharris@aol.com wrote:
>
> > Gary,
> > Thanks for the fast response.
> > OK - I give up. Can tachs be calibrated?
> > Bob Harris
>
> If you have an electronic tach..(BJ8) it can be calibrated to some
> degree by adjusting the variable resistor inside the back. You have to
> remove the glass and the case for access.
> The problem seems to be with these instruments that as they get older
> they become temperature sensitive and tend to read differently as they
> warm up.
>
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>
>
From "Donald L. Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 16:23:12 -0500
Subject: Auxillary Fuel Pump
I've seen several messages that indicated some of you Healey owners have
installed a "second" fuel pump in case one fails. I am in the process of
doing just that, however I am perplexed. Do you install the second pump in
series or parallel? That is, do you put one after the other or split the
fuel line, run it to the second pump, then back to the fuel line?
As a guess, I would think that the back pressure on the first pump from the
carbs would shut it down and then the back pressure from that would shut the
second one down, and when the demand returned both would start again. Is
that correct? Please advise or I'll remain forever in the darkness of
confusion.
Don
BN7
From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 16:35:11 EDT
Subject: Re: smoother shifting/snakeoil
In a message dated 8/30/00 11:56:36 AM, loftusdesign@home.com writes:
<<With the recent thread on balancing the gearbox and snakeoil, I wanted
to mention that I am using Redline MTL oil. Shifts feel smoother..
especially noticeable from first to second.>>
John,
My son's 83 BMW 320is with 200k has a weak second-gear synchro. I filled the
transmission with Redline MTL and the second gear "graunch" was gone. As far
as Healeys go, though, 30 weight non-detergent is recommended. I'll be
interested to see if some of the transmission experts have any experience
with MTL.
Rick
From Rebeltown at aol.com
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 18:57:20 EDT
Subject: oil pressure gauge fluctuations
Well for those interested I solved the rapid needle fluctuations at the low
end of the scale by bleeding the delivery line behind the gauge. Must have
been some air in the line as suspected by myself and Doug Reid, Thanks Doug.
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 16:06:08 -0700
Subject: RE: Auxillary Fuel Pump
The factory 100S set up had the pumps in "parallel" with a switch and a
light to indicate which pump was active. I say "parallel" because each pump
had its own line to the gas tank and one tube extended higher in the tank
than the other. That way, one pump was the "reserve".
I have also had pumps in series on other cars without problems. Each could
suck or push through the other.
Ken Freese
100S
-----Original Message-----
From: Donald L. Yarber [mailto:dyarber@dynasty.net]
Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2000 2:23 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: Auxillary Fuel Pump
I've seen several messages that indicated some of you Healey owners have
installed a "second" fuel pump in case one fails. I am in the process of
doing just that, however I am perplexed. Do you install the second pump in
series or parallel? That is, do you put one after the other or split the
fuel line, run it to the second pump, then back to the fuel line?
As a guess, I would think that the back pressure on the first pump from the
carbs would shut it down and then the back pressure from that would shut the
second one down, and when the demand returned both would start again. Is
that correct? Please advise or I'll remain forever in the darkness of
confusion.
Don
BN7
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 20:26:26 EDT
Subject: Re: Test your diagnostic powers
In a message dated 8/30/00 11:26:55 AM Eastern Daylight Time, coop1@dnai.com
writes:
<< Let's see how many of you can correctly diagnose
the problem and fix: >>
It has to be the muffler bearing!
Michael
From LarryRPH at aol.com
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 20:40:38 EDT
Subject: Re: Auxillary Fuel Pump
don,
I installed them in a parallel manner and control them by an electrical
toggle switch mounted on the dash. I switch between the 2 while I am out
driving to keep then both in good order. The center position of the 3 way
toggle switch cuts off power to either - another good anti-theft
maneuver. Anybody hot wiring the car would get only as far as the fuel in
the float bowls allows. Hopefully they would stall out on a major road and
quickly abandon the car
Hope this helps.
Larry Wysocki
BN 6
BJ 7
From "Ron Yates" <dipstickdigest at ctaz.com>
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 17:47:55 -0700
Subject: Monterey Historics
Here's a little something from the eclectic side of the historics. Check out
the photo page on the club website. www.ctaz.com/~dipstickdigest/index.html
Ron Yates
Arizona
Social
Society
of
Healey
Owners
&
Latent
Entrepreneurs
From <costan0 at attglobal.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 17:47:46 -0700
Subject: Re: Test your diagnostic powers
I think there was something in the gas tank that clogged the line
temporarily.
Jerry
----- Original Message -----
From: "Coop1" <coop1@dnai.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2000 8:23 AM
Subject: Test your diagnostic powers
>
> How about a bit of fun? Let's see how many of you can correctly diagnose
> the problem and fix:
>
> For 3 years I had a problem with my '61 MGA (I know, not strictly Healey
but
> close enough for this test) that was diagnosed incorrectly by competent
> mechanics 3 times. The symptom was quite simple. I would be cruising
along
> the freeway, usually at highway speeds when the engine would simply die.
The
> car would give me just enough notice to safely pull to the side of the
road.
> It felt very much like the carbs weren't getting any gas. But they did
get
> enough to give me warning. I would wait less than 5 minutes by the side
of
> the road and then proceed. Sometimes it would happen again, sometimes
not.
>
> Whenever my mechanic would test drive the car, it was fine (of course).
> This went on for almost 3 years before I finally gave up and sent the car
to
> my mechanic with orders not to return it until it was fixed. This problem
> presented itself after a near frame up restoration with almost all new or
> reconditioned parts. We inspected and replaced perfectly good hoses, fuel
> lines, filters, the fuel pump!, checked the SU carbs, etc. So, what do
> you all think was the cause of my A's mystery ailment?
> I'll let you all know tomorrow. Coop aka Randy
>
>
>
>
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 21:48:23 EDT
Subject: Re: Test your diagnostic powers
The low tension lead inside the distributor was bare shorting out the
ignition system intermittently
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>Br
itishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 21:53:20 EDT
Subject: Re: combination gauge
Yes : Return the defective one and have your original unit rebuilt.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>Br
itishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 18:54:06 -0700
Subject: Re: smoother shifting/snakeoil
Many years ago, I used to work the corner flag stations for pro races as an
SCCA turn worker. During the early morning breaks, I would go to the pits
and watch the pro racers warm their engines up Saw a guy explode a spin on
filter...nasty sight!!! You need to find out what is causing the problem.
I agree w/ Gary.
John Snyder.
----------
> From: Editorgary@aol.com
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: smoother shifting/snakeoil
> Date: Wednesday, August 30, 2000 2:08 PM
>
>
>
> In a message dated 8/30/00 11:34:49 AM, GNpaper@aol.com writes:
>
> <<
> I have question for the list.
> Yesterday I changed my oil for the second time after 1000 miles into a
> complete engine rebuild on my BJ8. I used Castrol 10W40 and a Napa spin
on
> oil filter with my Moss purchased oil filter adapter. My oil pressure at
idle
> is 40 to 50, at 60 MPH with the overdrive engaged it reads 90 and
sometimes
> higher. Is this abnormal, and if so what might be the cause? >>
>
> If you're getting a reading that high, then you almost certainly have a
> problem with
> the pressure release valve on your engine -- It is a bullet-shaped piece
held
> by a spring under a screw-out cap on the distributor side of the engine,
and
> is intended to keep the oil from circulating through the filter until
good
> pressure has been achieved at the top of the engine. Then (usually at
around
> 60 lbs) the pressure forces the bullet thing back against the spring
> sufficiently to allow the oil to enter the channel into the filter.
>
> First thing to do is to remove that valve and check it out. it should
slide
> easily in and out, but may be hung up somehow, or the rebuilder may have
used
> the wrong style for your engine. If you don't find anything to explain
why
> it won't open, then check with the specialists to make sure you have the
> right one for your engine.
>
> Cheers
> Gary
From Robert m Bowie <deemi at juno.com>
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 21:20:31 +0000
Subject: Re: Auxillary Fuel Pump
Interesting, I found this same setup on my Morgan Super Sports, it has
dual filler lines, enlarged tank, dual fillers etc. the two separate
feed lines come out of the tank on either side and go via an electric
pump through two plastic lines which Y together in front of the firewall.
this was in done in 1963 by the factory for endurance racing, and it has
an on off on switch under the dash to control the pumps as well. Makes
sense to keep reliable.
Bob Bowie in Maine
AH 3000 and 100
On Wed, 30 Aug 2000 20:40:38 EDT LarryRPH@aol.com writes:
>
> don,
>
> I installed them in a parallel manner and control them by an
> electrical
> toggle switch mounted on the dash. I switch between the 2 while I
> am out
> driving to keep then both in good order. The center position of
> the 3 way
> toggle switch cuts off power to either - another good anti-theft
>
> maneuver. Anybody hot wiring the car would get only as far as the
> fuel in
> the float bowls allows. Hopefully they would stall out on a major
> road and
> quickly abandon the car
> Hope this helps.
> Larry Wysocki
> BN 6
> BJ 7
DEEMI
PO Box 268
Orono, ME 04473
deemi@juno.com
From Joseph Elmer <Joelmer at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 22:52:14 -0400
Subject: Re: smoother shifting/snakeoil
Bill: What's the difference between MTL and MT-90? Joe Elmer.
John Loftus wrote:
> Hi Bill,
>
> I've only driven 600 miles with the MTL but no problems so far with the
> gearbox, OD or oil leaks.
>
> The MTL oil package states, "Satisfies the gear oil viscosity
> requirements of 70W, 75W, and 80, and motor oil viscosities SAE 30,
> 10W30 and 5W30." but I'm not going to argue with the source. Next time
> around I'll try the MT-90.
>
> Also, I forgot to mention another benefit. My gearbox has a worn first
> gear that makes a moderately loud knock. After the MTL the knock is
> noticeably quieter; even my navigator mentioned it without my prompting.
>
> Thanks for the info.
> John Loftus
>
> Bill Katz wrote:
> >
> > John, et. al. Here is an old email and reply I sent to Red Line regarding
> > MTL in the tranny.
> >
> > I am getting ready to change the transmission and overdrive oil in a
> > 1967 Austin Healey 3000. I was planning to use straight 30W,
> > non-detergent oil, but find it impossible to find. I've been told your
> > MTL product is good for this application.
> >
> > Can you please confirm MTL is the proper choice for this car. The weight
> > of MTL seems much higher than would normally be used for this vehicle.
> >
> > Thank you
> > Bill Katz
> > --
> > ================================================================
> >
> > In the Austin Healey 3000 transmission, I would recommend the Red Line
> > MT-90. Some of the overdrive units seem to work better with the MT-90.
> > The weight of the MTL is a 75W/80W gear oil or 5W30 motor oil, the MT-90 is
> > a 75W90 gear oil or 15W40 motor oil, so the viscosities are close to the
> > petroleum straight weight called for.
> >
> > ---------------------
> > At 09:51 AM 8/30/00 , you wrote:
> >
> > >John,
> > >
> > >Thanks for bringing this up. RedLine MTL has been recommended for manual
> > >transmissions by SAAB corresponders for several years and I used it in my
> > >Peugeot Mi16 for 100k+/-. Have been considering it for the A-H 100
>thinking
> > >that the non-slip version might help the synchronization, but curious as to
> > >how the OD would behave.
> > >
> > >-----Original Message-----
> > >From: John Loftus <loftusdesign@home.com>
> > >To: 'healeys@autox.team.net' <>
> > >Date: Wednesday, August 30, 2000 12:01 PM
> > >Subject: smoother shifting/snakeoil
> > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > >Hi all,
> > > >
> > > >With the recent thread on balancing the gearbox and snakeoil, I wanted
> > > >to mention that I am using Redline MTL oil. Shifts feel smoother..
> > > >especially noticeable from first to second. The oil is expensive (around
> > > >$9.00 quart) but they claim it has a long service life.
> > > >
> > > >All this being 'seat of the pants' endorsement, I'm curious if others
> > > >have had similar or differing results.
> > > >
> > > >Regards,
> > > >John Loftus
> > > >Laguna Beach, CA
> > > >BJ7
> > > >
From CNAArndt at aol.com
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2000 01:29:12 EDT
Subject: Re: Test your diagnostic powers
This sounds exactly like a standard scenario given contestants at
professional mechanics competitions, and in fact this was one a buddy of mine
had to diagnoses at a competition some years ago in Florida. We did this to
a fraternity brothers car in college in the mid seventies after he was making
a jerk out of himself, but that's another story.
The basic scenario is that a ball bearing, slightly smaller than the fuel
line, is inserted into the line just prior to the carburetor. It will then
slowly, due to gravity, sink down the line to its lowest point. The car will
start and run normally until the ball bearing is forced up to the carburetor
via fuel pressure and the engine will die. Of course as soon as it does the
ball bearing will immediately then start to drop back down the fuel line and
in a few minutes the car will start again. Like I stated initially, this was
a standard scenario that has stumped many a world class mechanic at
competitions over the years.
Curt Arndt
In a message dated 08/30/2000 5:47:52 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
costan0@attglobal.net writes:
<< > How about a bit of fun? Let's see how many of you can correctly diagnose
> the problem and fix:
>
> For 3 years I had a problem with my '61 MGA (I know, not strictly Healey
but
> close enough for this test) that was diagnosed incorrectly by competent
> mechanics 3 times. The symptom was quite simple. I would be cruising
along
> the freeway, usually at highway speeds when the engine would simply die.
The
> car would give me just enough notice to safely pull to the side of the
road.
> It felt very much like the carbs weren't getting any gas. But they did
get
> enough to give me warning. I would wait less than 5 minutes by the side
of
> the road and then proceed. Sometimes it would happen again, sometimes
not.
>
> Whenever my mechanic would test drive the car, it was fine (of course).
> This went on for almost 3 years before I finally gave up and sent the car
to
> my mechanic with orders not to return it until it was fixed. This problem
> presented itself after a near frame up restoration with almost all new or
> reconditioned parts. We inspected and replaced perfectly good hoses, fuel
> lines, filters, the fuel pump!, checked the SU carbs, etc. So, what do
> you all think was the cause of my A's mystery ailment?
> I'll let you all know tomorrow. Coop aka Randy
> >>
From Josef.Eckert at t-mobil.de
Date: 31 Aug 2000 07:52:38 +0000
Subject: Re:smoother shifting/snakeoil
Gary´s answer to Dan´s question made me thinking:
The pressure release valve is "...intended to keep the oil from circulating
through the filter until good pressure has been achieved at the top of the
engine. Then (usually at around
60 lbs) the pressure forces the bullet thing back against the spring
sufficiently to allow the oil to enter the channel into the filter."
My idea was it does the different way: With the opening of the release valve
the oil bypasses the filter directly to the sump.
Could one help? What is right?
Cheers
Josef Eckert, Germany
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2000 07:39:12 -0400
Subject: Re: smoother shifting/snakeoil
I must have missed something. How can one oil satisfy 5 different viscosity
measurements? Aren't they really talking about five different oils under
the one "MTL" brand?
Lee
'62 BT7 Tri-carb
>The MTL oil package states, "Satisfies the gear oil viscosity
>requirements of 70W, 75W, and 80, and motor oil viscosities SAE 30,
>10W30 and 5W30." but I'm not going to argue with the source.
From "Richard E. Pratt" <prattri at email.msn.com>
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2000 09:10:10 -0400
Subject: RE: smoother shifting/snakeoil
Gary,
What my BJ8 manual states is the relief valve is between the pump and the
filter. Also the gauge is measuring pressure after the filter in the gallery
which feed the main brg. The original filter housing also contains a bypass
set at 20psi to bypass oil around a dirty filter. Most spin on filters also
have a by-pass. After an oil change(15W-50W synthetic also in the
transmission), my BJ8 will reflect about 80PSI until thoroughly warmed up.
This takes about 1/2 hour at 70 MPH. It will than idle at 20-25psi and 55
psi at 50mph. As far as I can tell my engine is original. To me your engine
is normal but you might have a oil gauge out of calibration.
Richard Pratt
65 BJ8
Cincinnati, OH
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Lee S. Mairs
> Sent: Thursday, August 31, 2000 7:39 AM
> To: Healey
> Subject: Re: smoother shifting/snakeoil
>
>
>
> I must have missed something. How can one oil satisfy 5
> different viscosity
> measurements? Aren't they really talking about five different oils under
> the one "MTL" brand?
> Lee
> '62 BT7 Tri-carb
>
> >The MTL oil package states, "Satisfies the gear oil viscosity
> >requirements of 70W, 75W, and 80, and motor oil viscosities SAE 30,
> >10W30 and 5W30." but I'm not going to argue with the source.
>
>
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2000 06:37:36 -0700
Subject: Re: smoother shifting/snakeoil
Hi Lee,
The Redline MTL is a SAE 70W80 Gear oil which is equiv. in viscosity to
a 5W30 motor oil. The MT90 is a SAE 75W90 Gear oil which is equiv. to a
10W40 motor oil. All the other viscosities they mention fall within
those extremes. If you need further specs. on their oils you can look
at: http://www.redlineoil.com/
Regards,
John
"Lee S. Mairs" wrote:
>
> I must have missed something. How can one oil satisfy 5 different viscosity
> measurements? Aren't they really talking about five different oils under
> the one "MTL" brand?
> Lee
> '62 BT7 Tri-carb
>
> >The MTL oil package states, "Satisfies the gear oil viscosity
> >requirements of 70W, 75W, and 80, and motor oil viscosities SAE 30,
> >10W30 and 5W30." but I'm not going to argue with the source.
From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2000 07:52:30 -0700
Subject: Diagnostic powers test over
Actually, I posted the answer yesterday, but I'm still getting guesses this
morning. So I'm reposting the solution to the problem. See below.
Congtaulations! A few of you got it right.
___________________________________________________
I know I said tomorrow but by then I'll need to buy a new computer to handle
the email traffic. Some of you were pretty darned close:
Hint 1: I said that the symptoms occured at high speed?
Hint 2: I said that the car had undergone full restoration?
Hint 3: After a rest at the side of the road she was fine
After the car was painted and reassembled, the body shop had a difficult
time installing the gas cap. MGA's have a stupid design gas cap with a
screw and washer exposed beneath the cap. They tend to loosen ovewr time.
The mechanic accidently dropped both screw and washer into freshly
refurbished tank filler tube while trying to reinstall the unit. He replaced
the screw and washer and never told me! Of course, it never occured to me
or any of the guys working on the car because everyone new I had a freshly
refurbished gas tank.
At speed, the fuel pump would suck the washer up against the fuel intake
inside the tank. Thus cutting off fuel supply. As soon as I stopped the car
the washer would settle down into the bottom of the tank waiting for the
next opportunity to piss me off. My mechanic couldn't get the thing to
misbehave because he never took it for a long drive at high speed. It
wasn't until we pulled the tank again and the screw and washer fell out that
the mystery was solved.
Good fun guys, thanks.
Coop
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2000 11:13:11 -0400
Subject: Re: Auxillary Fuel Pump
Hi Don,
The 2 pump system was used on the "S" and any of the other factory cars that I
have seen.
These systems often incorporate a second pickup in the tank. This pick up, which
is used by the primary pump is higher than the other, so the second pump, as
well as being a back up, acts as a reserve fuel supply.
The pumps are always installed in parallel, probably to prevent a blockage in
one system from affecting the other, and are controlled by a switch which allows
one or other of the pumps to be turned on. On the "S" the switch is a very
unusual puch button device which also illuminates a green light on the dash when
the reserve pump is turned on.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
"Donald L. Yarber" wrote:
> I've seen several messages that indicated some of you Healey owners have
> installed a "second" fuel pump in case one fails. I am in the process of
> doing just that, however I am perplexed. Do you install the second pump in
> series or parallel? That is, do you put one after the other or split the
> fuel line, run it to the second pump, then back to the fuel line?
>
> As a guess, I would think that the back pressure on the first pump from the
> carbs would shut it down and then the back pressure from that would shut the
> second one down, and when the demand returned both would start again. Is
> that correct? Please advise or I'll remain forever in the darkness of
> confusion.
>
> Don
> BN7
From "Michael Lempert" <mdlempert at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2000 11:12:49 -0400
Subject: Re: Did you name your home?
While I didn't name it, I inherited a house with a name. My grandfather
built a summer home on a lake back in 1923 when my father was just nine
years old. Now I'm the third generation to own it. From the beginning it
was named "Holiday House", and one of my father's uncles made a nice sign
to hang on the front of the house.
Apparently it was much more common place to name a house in those days, or
at least summer residences. As a young man my father would receive mail
there addressed to him at Holiday House, which would be picked up from a
PO box in the clubhouse. There were no street addresses at the time. Of
course that has all changed.
A few years back I was rummaging through the junk stored under the house
when I came across the original sign. I restored it to original (concours),
maintaining the lettering style and colors and then hung it back in the same
place overlooking the lake. We always answer the phone with "Holiday
House".
Regards,
Mike L.
From "S.HUTCHINGS" <hutching at myna.com>
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2000 11:18:09 -0400
Subject: Oil pressure anomalies
While everybody's telling their oil pressure stories, I've got a question
of my own. After a rocker shaft
rebuild my oil pressure seems great; idles between 20 and 30, and about 50
to 55 at 65 m.p.h.,
this is after what I thought was warm. But on my first long trip, at a
steady 170 on the temperature gauge the pressure slowly decreased to the 40
-43 range. Now, Richard Pratt said it took him half
an hour at 70m.p.h. to have his pressure fal to 55 lbs at 50 m.p.h. What I
find strange, is that after a
10-15 minute stop(hardly enough time,I would have thought, to cool the
engine signifigantly) the pressure's back up to the 50 plus
range.......before dropping again in the same way.
I never used to see this difference between warm on short drives, and warm
as in a long high speed run. Could the pressure relief valve have something
to do with this?
Stephen BJ8
From LarryRPH at aol.com
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2000 11:27:14 EDT
Subject: Re: Auxillary Fuel Pump
Don,
I decided on a parallel setup because I feared that a mechanical breakdown
in of the pumps in a series hookup (leaky diaphragm, electrical short,etc.)
would cause the fuel to be cut off . The pumps "push " the gas and the
fear is that it would not push it through a "dead" pump. I decided to play
it safe.
Yes , putting the toggle switch in a secure location where it will not
accidentally be moved is very wise. I put the second pump in because I had
considerable problem
on a long trip when I was running with the single pump. (Vapor lock -the
original pump on a BN 6 is located a few inches above the tailpipes) . at
the same time that I installed the second pump, I put in a stebro side pipe
exhaust system and the exhaust exits just in front of the rear wheel. Never
a vapor lock problem since these modifications ! However, The noise out the
side makes my radio useless and conversation with a passenger is a real
challenge.
I am about to give this car a real test as I leave this afternoon for
Liverpool, England to pick up the car and drive the UK2K tour! I think we
get to go through some pretty high elevations in the Swiss Alps and I have my
fingers crossed!
Larry Wysocki
BN 6
BJ 7
From "Richard E. Pratt" <prattri at email.msn.com>
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2000 11:48:42 -0400
Subject: RE: Oil pressure anomalies
Stephen,
My take on this situation is the oil in the pan will cool faster than the
engine temp. Because of the chimney effect of the cool air passing by the
oil pan and up under the hood and finally into the cock pit(joke), there is
sufficient cooling to change the viscosity and result in higher oil
pressure. I doubt the relief valve is operating below 60psi and I think the
viscosity of the oil drops off very quickly with temperature.
PS This variance in pressure is one reason why they do not put oil pressure
gages in new cars.
Only my thoughts.
Richard
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of S.HUTCHINGS
> Sent: Thursday, August 31, 2000 11:18 AM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Oil pressure anomalies
>
>
>
> While everybody's telling their oil pressure stories, I've got a question
> of my own. After a rocker shaft
> rebuild my oil pressure seems great; idles between 20 and 30, and about 50
> to 55 at 65 m.p.h.,
> this is after what I thought was warm. But on my first long trip, at a
> steady 170 on the temperature gauge the pressure slowly decreased
> to the 40
> -43 range. Now, Richard Pratt said it took him half
> an hour at 70m.p.h. to have his pressure fal to 55 lbs at 50 m.p.h. What I
> find strange, is that after a
> 10-15 minute stop(hardly enough time,I would have thought, to cool the
> engine signifigantly) the pressure's back up to the 50 plus
> range.......before dropping again in the same way.
> I never used to see this difference between warm on short drives, and warm
> as in a long high speed run. Could the pressure relief valve have
> something
> to do with this?
> Stephen BJ8
>
>
>
From "Bruce Starke" <bstarke at redshift.bc.ca>
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2000 10:25:41 -0600
Subject: Texas cooler--Canadian availability
At the risk of starting another firestorm------Canadian Healey owners may
want to know the following:
The Texas cooler is available from Napa part # A8755. I bought 2 from my
local supplier and paid C$44 each plus taxes. Thanks to Robert Corfield for
the tip.
BRUCE STARKE
Golden BC
BJ7
BT7 tricarb
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2000 09:46:05 -0700
Subject: Re: Did you name your home?
My favorite was the name of an old friend's summer home in Vermont:
Chateau DeBris :-)
-Roland
On Thu, 31 Aug 2000 11:12:49 -0400, Mike wrote:
::
:: While I didn't name it, I inherited a house with a name. My grandfather
:: built a summer home on a lake back in 1923 when my father was just nine
:: years old. Now I'm the third generation to own it. From the beginning it
:: was named "Holiday House", and one of my father's uncles made a nice sign
:: to hang on the front of the house.
::
:: Apparently it was much more common place to name a house in those days, or
:: at least summer residences.
From Kit Henry <khenry at hmcltd.net>
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2000 13:22:09 -0400
Subject: Re: Did you name your home?
Michael:
Interesting as I'm also the third generation owner of our estate in the
little town of Bellevue, Ohio. When built in 1936 it was a major home and
project in this little town. It sits on Four Acres almost in the center of town.
It is there fore known as "Four Acres" and has been since it was built.
Kit Henry
65 BJ8 "Ivory Red"
65 Jaguar XKE "Gold Finger"
54 MG TF "Annie" or "Red"
Michael Lempert wrote:
> While I didn't name it, I inherited a house with a name. My grandfather
> built a summer home on a lake back in 1923 when my father was just nine
> years old. Now I'm the third generation to own it. From the beginning it
> was named "Holiday House", and one of my father's uncles made a nice sign
> to hang on the front of the house.
>
> Apparently it was much more common place to name a house in those days, or
> at least summer residences. As a young man my father would receive mail
> there addressed to him at Holiday House, which would be picked up from a
> PO box in the clubhouse. There were no street addresses at the time. Of
> course that has all changed.
>
> A few years back I was rummaging through the junk stored under the house
> when I came across the original sign. I restored it to original (concours),
> maintaining the lettering style and colors and then hung it back in the same
> place overlooking the lake. We always answer the phone with "Holiday
> House".
>
> Regards,
> Mike L.
--
Kit Henry
Henry MotorSports Inc.
419-483-5064
http://www.henrymotorsports.com
E-Mail: khenry@hmcltd.net
From GNpaper at aol.com
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2000 13:31:34 EDT
Subject: Re: Oil pressure anomalies
Thanks to everyone regarding oil pressure.
Last night I changed my oil filter, just for kicks. No change. However the
really high oil pressure (Over 100) occurs just when cold. after I drive and
really warm it up pressure drops to 80 at high rpm's and 40 to 60 at lower
rpm's. My next try is the pressure relief valve. This seems to be the logical
place to look. I have noticed that the pressure increase is not always
linear. It's as if something is sticking and then releases. Maybe it's the
ticky tacky springy thingy in the gauge.
Any way we'll let you know when she's cured or if she blows.
Dan Brooks
67 BJ8
From "Scheuble, Fred J. ,HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2000 14:03:15 -0400
Subject: RE: Did you name your home?
the only thing I ever inherited were bills
-----Original Message-----
From: Kit Henry [mailto:khenry@hmcltd.net]
Sent: Thursday, August 31, 2000 1:22 PM
To: Michael Lempert
Cc: Healey List
Subject: Re: Did you name your home?
Michael:
Interesting as I'm also the third generation owner of our estate in the
little town of Bellevue, Ohio. When built in 1936 it was a major home and
project in this little town. It sits on Four Acres almost in the center of
town.
It is there fore known as "Four Acres" and has been since it was built.
Kit Henry
65 BJ8 "Ivory Red"
65 Jaguar XKE "Gold Finger"
54 MG TF "Annie" or "Red"
Michael Lempert wrote:
> While I didn't name it, I inherited a house with a name. My grandfather
> built a summer home on a lake back in 1923 when my father was just nine
> years old. Now I'm the third generation to own it. From the beginning it
> was named "Holiday House", and one of my father's uncles made a nice sign
> to hang on the front of the house.
>
> Apparently it was much more common place to name a house in those days,
or
> at least summer residences. As a young man my father would receive mail
> there addressed to him at Holiday House, which would be picked up from a
> PO box in the clubhouse. There were no street addresses at the time. Of
> course that has all changed.
>
> A few years back I was rummaging through the junk stored under the house
> when I came across the original sign. I restored it to original
(concours),
> maintaining the lettering style and colors and then hung it back in the
same
> place overlooking the lake. We always answer the phone with "Holiday
> House".
>
> Regards,
> Mike L.
--
Kit Henry
Henry MotorSports Inc.
419-483-5064
http://www.henrymotorsports.com
E-Mail: khenry@hmcltd.net
From Your Namejames albeck <bjate at pacbell.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 20:37:47 -0700
Subject: Re: Test your diagnostic powers
Randy,
Considering that all working components are new or freshly rebuilt , I would
guess that there was something in the gas tank, like a piece of paper that
would occasionally get sucked over the fuel outlet. Therein shuting off the
fuel flow while the engine was running. When stopped the obstruction would
float away from the outlet and the normal fuel flow would return.
Jim
Agoura, CA
Coop1 wrote:
> How about a bit of fun? Let's see how many of you can correctly diagnose
> the problem and fix:
>
> For 3 years I had a problem with my '61 MGA (I know, not strictly Healey but
> close enough for this test) that was diagnosed incorrectly by competent
> mechanics 3 times. The symptom was quite simple. I would be cruising along
> the freeway, usually at highway speeds when the engine would simply die. The
> car would give me just enough notice to safely pull to the side of the road.
> It felt very much like the carbs weren't getting any gas. But they did get
> enough to give me warning. I would wait less than 5 minutes by the side of
> the road and then proceed. Sometimes it would happen again, sometimes not.
>
> Whenever my mechanic would test drive the car, it was fine (of course).
> This went on for almost 3 years before I finally gave up and sent the car to
> my mechanic with orders not to return it until it was fixed. This problem
> presented itself after a near frame up restoration with almost all new or
> reconditioned parts. We inspected and replaced perfectly good hoses, fuel
> lines, filters, the fuel pump!, checked the SU carbs, etc. So, what do
> you all think was the cause of my A's mystery ailment?
> I'll let you all know tomorrow. Coop aka Randy
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2000 16:12:50 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: RE: Wire Wheel Paint
Dupli-Color has a dead-on match for Dunlop silver/grey. I've used it as a
touch up on clean Dunlops and can't find where I sprayed later.
I don't have any on hand but go to PepBoys, NAPA , etc and the large can with
the cap that looks right is the one --I seem to recall T60 as the number.
I'll check and repost next time I go to my local parts store.
DickB
---- you wrote:
> >From: David Rasch <DavidR@arcon-rehab.com>
> >Reply-To: David Rasch <DavidR@arcon-rehab.com>
> >To: british-cars@autox.team.net
> >Subject: RE: Wire Wheel Paint
> >Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2000 13:02:20 -0400
> >
> >Paul writes:
> >
> > >Hi, Does anyone know what the color of the paint
> > >is for Wire Wheels? hardware store silver it is not.
> > >thank you
> >
> >Seven Enterprises in Virginia has (or used to have) a very nice wire wheel
> >paint in silver that I used on my MGB's Dunlop wires.
> >
> >
> >-David Rasch
>
> Hey has anyone considered paintin their wheels body color or a nice
> contrasting color e.g. BRG body/Navy Blue wheels? With the chrome
> knock off it could look really cool!
>
>
> Greg Petrolati Champaign, Illinois 1962 TR4 (CT4852L)
>
> That's not a leak... My car's just marking its territory...
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________________
>
> Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at
> http://profiles.msn.com.
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2000 19:51:21 EDT
Subject: NO LBC !!
Sorry to bomb Lists. Friend of mine (like me) "lost" the Graduation Test
that got passed arounf a few weeks ago. Anybody still have that can send to
me?? TIA.
Ed
From howard young <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2000 20:48:27 -0500
Subject: some stuff
gotta buddy that has a AH Spares boot lid for a 100/6,3000( by way of
Moss) asking $400. and i think he has 2 door skins, lt. surface rust
only in spots..$100. for rt. or left........THANKS! HoYo
hated to see this go to Ebay.............
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2000 22:11:41 EDT
Subject: Fwd: Austin Healeys at Conclave 2000
--part1_5f.9f33903.26e06a5d_boundary
Hi Listers,
I just received this email and thought you might want to watch or tape the
show.
Rudy Streng in NC
--part1_5f.9f33903.26e06a5d_boundary
Content-Disposition: inline
Return-path: <TGEE1@aol.com>
From: TGEE1@aol.com
Full-name: TGEE1
Message-ID: <3c.67dba1.26e05896@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2000 20:55:50 EDT
Subject: Austin Healeys at Conclave 2000
To: Secyahca@aol.com, WBagby45@aol.com, vamoose@salisbury.net, caudle1@home.com,
Marycort@aol.com, fdabney2@perigee.net, hamjond@worldnet.att.net,
bugide@tfs.net, gfield@swva.net, TGood99005@aol.com,
cotsmanr@rjsonline.net, fdabney2@Perigee.net, Beth_Lunney@usiway.net,
PANNENT@aol.com, hdklein@fuse.net, Dmlippoth@aol.com,
PLOWNSDALE@aol.com, IRONMAN002@aol.com, fourshells@mindspring.com,
pigrichie@msn.com, rjrintl@alltel.net, systech1@carolina.rr.com,
CAWS52803@aol.com, cgydf@allstate.com, Lotus7ed@aol.com,
frankyow_99@yahoo.com
MIME-Version: 1.0
X-Mailer: AOL 5.0 for Windows sub 120
As some of you know a Speedvision Camera Crew did some filming at the Popular
Car Show in Zionsville this year. It will be shown at 7:00 Friday night on
Speedvision. Check it out and see if you see some of your friends.
Treasure
--part1_5f.9f33903.26e06a5d_boundary--
From Bill Holt <lbcholt at one.net>
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2000 22:21:55 -0400
Subject: Re:Austin-Healey magazine
I received the August, 2000 issue of A-H magazine today. What a great issue!
I went so far as to read Greg Kaufman's column at the dinner table this
evening. Even my car-indifferent wife was chuckling about Greg's recent
"immature display of testosterone" in battling 4 kids in a Honda to the
next traffic light. After a few more articles like this one, maybe she
won't be quite so indifferent.
Great job on a great issue of the magazine.
Bill Holt
From Laurie Wilford <healey3000 at altavista.com>
Date: 31 Aug 2000 19:31:16 -0700
Subject: Re: Healeys on Speedvision
While we were at Conclave in Indianapolis,it was metioned that there would
be a program on Speedvision September 1 about Healeys. It was to include
footage on Conclave 2000. Does anyone know what time it is supposed to air? I
was hoping to tape it.
Thanks,
Laurie Wilford
_______________________________________________________________________
Free Unlimited Internet Access! Try it now!
http://www.zdnet.com/downloads/altavista/index.html
_______________________________________________________________________
From howard young <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2000 22:02:45 -0500
Subject: To quote more correctly.....
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--------------8E0E38BC39D54CB2AB2F0D78
I forgot to mention that I have (2) two Healey door skins too.
One each, left and right.
For the six cylinder side screen cars.
They're old, minor blotches of surface rust (only) here or there, but
never
installed.
See if you can get $100.00 apiece for
them..............................................
--------------8E0E38BC39D54CB2AB2F0D78
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for <hoyo@lig.bellsouth.net>; Sat, 26 Aug 2000 11:18:15 -0400 (EDT)
From: Erandyforbes@aol.com
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Message-ID: <c6.9efc496.26d939ae@aol.com>
Date: Sat, 26 Aug 2000 11:18:06 EDT
Subject: E-Bay
To: hoyo@bellsouth.net
MIME-Version: 1.0
X-Mailer: AOL 5.0 for Windows sub 120
X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000
Hey Dude
I forgot to mention that I have (2) two Healey door skins too.
One each, left and right.
For the six cylinder side screen cars.
They're old, minor blotches of surface rust (only) here or there, but never
installed.
See if you can get $100.00 apiece for them.
I'll let you know later, if I get a car loaded up today.
If I do, I'll make a trip in the morning with it ...
Randy
--------------8E0E38BC39D54CB2AB2F0D78--
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2000 23:05:05 -0400
Subject: Re: Austin Healeys at Conclave 2000
Best of all there are semi truck races following it! :)
Keith Pennell
----- Original Message -----
From: <CAWS52803@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>; <british-cars@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 31, 2000 10:11 PM
Subject: Fwd: Austin Healeys at Conclave 2000
>
>
> --part1_5f.9f33903.26e06a5d_boundary
>
> Hi Listers,
> I just received this email and thought you might want to watch or tape the
> show.
> Rudy Streng in NC
>
> --part1_5f.9f33903.26e06a5d_boundary
> Content-Disposition: inline
>
> Return-path: <TGEE1@aol.com>
> From: TGEE1@aol.com
> Full-name: TGEE1
> Message-ID: <3c.67dba1.26e05896@aol.com>
> Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2000 20:55:50 EDT
> Subject: Austin Healeys at Conclave 2000
> To: Secyahca@aol.com, WBagby45@aol.com, vamoose@salisbury.net,
caudle1@home.com,
> Marycort@aol.com, fdabney2@perigee.net, hamjond@worldnet.att.net,
> bugide@tfs.net, gfield@swva.net, TGood99005@aol.com,
> cotsmanr@rjsonline.net, fdabney2@Perigee.net, Beth_Lunney@usiway.net,
> PANNENT@aol.com, hdklein@fuse.net, Dmlippoth@aol.com,
> PLOWNSDALE@aol.com, IRONMAN002@aol.com, fourshells@mindspring.com,
> pigrichie@msn.com, rjrintl@alltel.net, systech1@carolina.rr.com,
> CAWS52803@aol.com, cgydf@allstate.com, Lotus7ed@aol.com,
> frankyow_99@yahoo.com
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> X-Mailer: AOL 5.0 for Windows sub 120
>
> As some of you know a Speedvision Camera Crew did some filming at the
Popular
> Car Show in Zionsville this year. It will be shown at 7:00 Friday night
on
> Speedvision. Check it out and see if you see some of your friends.
>
> Treasure
>
> --part1_5f.9f33903.26e06a5d_boundary--
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2000 21:41:03 -0700
Subject: Warning, no HEALEY content!! Anybody want to buy a Packard?
Actually, anybody want to buy Packard itself? Just ran across a news
article. These guys are going to auction off the rights to the name, as
well as the company and prototype. Looks damn ugly to me.
http://www.packardmotorcar.com/
Bill Katz
Bay Area, CA
'67 BJ8
'94 325is
http://www.handsonresearch.com/healey
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