+1 on keeping the clutch release stuff stock.
I will add if you don't overtighten the hardened taper pin and safety
wire it, they work fine. Adding an additional bolt or roll pin to keep
the fork fixed to the cross shaft is the belt and suspenders approach. I
do that with my street cars where a gearbox pull requires a bunch of
work removing interior bits, but the race stuff gets pulled often enough
that I simply put a new tapered pin in every time.
Henry
On 2024-08-18 22:05, Mark Cook via Fot wrote:
> So, I one of my TR6s has a close ratio transmission with Mcleod
> hydraulic release bearing, which is leaking. While there, trying to
> decide on whether to go back to a stock bearing, yoke etc, with an
> external slave cylinder. For reference, as part of the engine
> rebuild, going with the Racetorations Arrow billet crank, 7 1/4"
> lightweight flywheel, cover and four paddle clutch disc.
>
> Not keen on having to remove the transmission for seal leaks related
> to the hydraulic release bearing. At the same time not familiar
> enough to know if a hydraulic release bearing's failure rate is any
> worse than a standard release bearing. Everything I have read makes
> the hydraulic bearing seem more sensitive to initial set up as well.
>
> Thoughts?
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