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I would add that some of these diffs used a crushable spacer, I=E2=80=99m =
told, rather than a hard spacer and shims. In that case, I=E2=80=99m not =
sure you can simply re-tighten the nut. Yes, these are tapered bearings =
with a spacer in between.
Here=E2=80=99s some instructions that summarize this better than I can. =
If you have a nut with a cotter pin, it would seem you are in luck.
The pinion seal gets a bit more involved on later diff units; if yours =
has a castle nut and cotter pin holding the flange to the front of the =
pinion you can just take it off, remove the flange and swap out the =
seals re-torque the nut to the work shop manual spec.=20
If instead you find a cap similar to a front wheel bearing cap and =
inside that a nylock nut you must be very careful to mark the shaft the =
flange and the nut so on reassembly you can get them back in EXACTLY the =
same relative positions; THIS INCLUDES TAKING A COUNT OF EXACTLY HOW =
MANY TURNS THE NUT TAKES. For example: you turn the nut 12 turns and =
three flats to get it off, then you must turn it twelve turns and three =
flats putting it on. Your marks should now line up. If they don't quite =
line up you can tweak the nut a bit to bring them into line. If they =
have gone beyond DON'T back off. The reason for this fussiness is that =
the pinion preload is set by a crush sleeve. If you get back to the same =
place the preload is not changed. If you go farther you change the =
preload, but in a worn unit it probably won't be off much it is only a =
fraction of a flat we're talking about. If you back off you release the =
preload.=20
On May 19, 2021, at 12:24 PM, Chip Collingwood via Fot =
<fot@autox.team.net> wrote:
Yes, the front flange holds the pinion bearings tight.
Did you mark the nut and shaft before removing them and the flange. If =
not then it will be difficult to get the proper pinion pre-load and =
depth.
Chip
On Wed, May 19, 2021, 12:09 PM Ronnie Babbitt via Fot =
I had planned to change the pinion seals on my diff while I have it out. =
I removed the front support bracket and removed the nut along with the =
front pinion seal. With the seal out of the case I have this movement. =
When assembled,I did not notice any movement. Is this normal movement =
with no seal in place? Are the pinion bearings cone shaped? If so would =
this allow for movement?=20
The gear set looks absolutely remarkablea, no scoring or wear. The =
bearing spins freely. This is a GT6/ Late Spit diff used in my sports =
six.=20
Ronnie_______________________________________________
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<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive> =
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/chip@theukmotorsports.com =
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_______________________________________________
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http://www.fot-racing.com
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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dutf-8"></head><body style=3D"word-wrap: break-word; =
-webkit-nbsp-mode: space; line-break: after-white-space;" class=3D"">I =
would add that some of these diffs used a crushable spacer, I=E2=80=99m =
told, rather than a hard spacer and shims. In that case, I=E2=80=99m not =
sure you can simply re-tighten the nut. Yes, these are tapered =
bearings with a spacer in between.<div class=3D"">Here=E2=80=99s some =
instructions that summarize this better than I can. If you have a =
nut with a cotter pin, it would seem you are in luck.</div><div =
class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div class=3D""><span =
style=3D"font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; =
background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);" class=3D"">The pinion seal gets a =
bit more involved on later diff units; if yours has a castle nut and =
cotter pin holding the flange to the front of the pinion you can just =
take it off, remove the flange and swap out the seals re-torque the nut =
to the work shop manual spec. </span><br style=3D"clear: both; =
font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;" =
class=3D""><span style=3D"font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; =
font-size: 14px; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);" class=3D"">If =
instead you find a cap similar to a front wheel bearing cap and inside =
that a nylock nut you must be very careful to mark the shaft the flange =
and the nut so on reassembly you can get them back in EXACTLY the same =
relative positions; THIS INCLUDES TAKING A COUNT OF EXACTLY HOW MANY =
TURNS THE NUT TAKES. For example: you turn the nut 12 turns and three =
flats to get it off, then you must turn it twelve turns and three flats =
putting it on. Your marks should now line up. If they don't quite line =
up you can tweak the nut a bit to bring them into line. If they have =
gone beyond DON'T back off. The reason for this fussiness is that the =
pinion preload is set by a crush sleeve. If you get back to the same =
place the preload is not changed. If you go farther you change the =
preload, but in a worn unit it probably won't be off much it is only a =
fraction of a flat we're talking about. If you back off you release the =
preload. </span><br class=3D""><div><br class=3D""><div class=3D"">On=
May 19, 2021, at 12:24 PM, Chip Collingwood via Fot <<a =
href=3D"mailto:fot@autox.team.net"; class=3D"">fot@autox.team.net</a>> =
wrote:</div><br class=3D"Apple-interchange-newline"><div class=3D""><div =
dir=3D"auto" class=3D"">Yes, the front flange holds the pinion bearings =
tight.<div dir=3D"auto" class=3D"">Did you mark the nut and shaft before =
removing them and the flange. If not then it will be difficult to get =
the proper pinion pre-load and depth.</div><div dir=3D"auto" =
class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div dir=3D"auto" =
class=3D"">Chip</div></div><br class=3D""><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div =
dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Wed, May 19, 2021, 12:09 PM Ronnie =
Babbitt via Fot <<a href=3D"mailto:fot@autox.team.net"; =
class=3D"">fot@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br =
class=3D""></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 =
.8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">I had planned to =
change the pinion seals on my diff while I have it out. I removed the =
front support bracket and removed the nut along with the front pinion =
seal. With the seal out of the case I have this movement. When =
assembled,I did not notice any movement. Is this normal movement with no =
seal in place? Are the pinion bearings cone shaped? If so would =
this allow for movement? <br class=3D"">
<br class=3D"">
The gear set looks absolutely remarkablea, no scoring or wear. The =
bearing spins freely. This is a GT6/ Late Spit diff used in my sports =
six. <br class=3D"">
<br class=3D"">
Ronnie_______________________________________________<br class=3D"">
<a href=3D"mailto:fot@autox.team.net"; target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer"=
class=3D"">fot@autox.team.net</a><br class=3D"">
<br class=3D"">
<a href=3D"http://www.fot-racing.com/"; rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" =
target=3D"_blank" class=3D"">http://www.fot-racing.com</a><br class=3D"">
<br class=3D"">
noreferrer" target=3D"_blank" =
class=3D"">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br class=3D"">
Archive: <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive"; rel=3D"noreferrer =
noreferrer" target=3D"_blank" class=3D"">http://autox.team.net/archive</a>=
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rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank" =
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.com</a><br class=3D"">
<br class=3D"">
<br class=3D"">
</blockquote></div>
_______________________________________________<br class=3D""><a =
href=3D"mailto:fot@autox.team.net"; class=3D"">fot@autox.team.net</a><br =
class=3D""><br class=3D"">http://www.fot-racing.com<br class=3D""><br =
class=3D"">Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html<br class=3D"">Archive: =
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_______________________________________________
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http://www.fot-racing.com
Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
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