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Thanks again, Tony:
The one we have, built by the late Bill Throop, in addition to reinforcing t=
he cap itself, has the block machined internally to accept the sides of a st=
rap, then the strap is cross bolted from the sides, through the block from o=
utside. I=E2=80=99m wondering if this is a bit of overkill. Based on your r=
ecommendation, it seems to be.
Maybe I can send some pictures later today, as we are pulling the engine tod=
ay for other work.
Phil
Sent from my iPhone
> On Nov 22, 2019, at 10:56 PM, Tony Drews <tony@tonydrews.com> wrote:
>=20
> =EF=BB=BF
> I run that setup, it was an uncle jack trick. Here's what he wrote about t=
hat (on my engine building tips page):
>=20
> "I also like to strap the center main to add rigidity to the bottom end. T=
o do this, mill off the cast face of the main flush with the surfaces for th=
e head bolts. Get a front strap for a Chevy 400 block. You must enlarge the h=
oles in the strap and you must use longer bolts. Some builders feel that t=
his is totally unnecessary, but since starting to do this, I have never had a=
main bearing deteriorate faster than a rod bearing, which is something that=
happens more frequently than you would expect."
>=20
> Regards, Tony Drews
>=20
> On 11/22/2019 3:58 PM, Phil Gott via Fot wrote:
>> Has anyone seen the need to add extra support to the center main on the T=
R wet sleeve engine? We have an engine that has a steel bridge cross-bolted u=
nderneath and supporting the center main cap. Is this needed? Just took 3 fa=
ctory cranks to the machine shop and all three were bent about .002 in (.002=
run out at center main when supported on first and last mains.) Two of thes=
e were raced, the third was removed from a tired street engine. note: None o=
f these cranks came out of the engine with extra support at the center.
>> Curious as to the need for the extra support.
>> Thanks,
>> Phil Gott
>> 114 TR4A
>>=20
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot@autox.team.net
>>=20
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>=20
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony@tonydr=
ews.com
>>=20
>>=20
>>=20
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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto">Thanks again, Tony:<div>The one we have, bu=
ilt by the late Bill Throop, in addition to reinforcing the cap itself=
, has the block machined internally to accept the sides of a strap, then the=
strap is cross bolted from the sides, through the block from outside.=
I=E2=80=99m wondering if this is a bit of overkill. Based on your rec=
ommendation, it seems to be.</div><div>Maybe I can send some pictures later t=
oday, as we are pulling the engine today for other work.</div><div>Phil<br><=
br><div dir=3D"ltr">Sent from my iPhone</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br><blockquot=
e type=3D"cite">On Nov 22, 2019, at 10:56 PM, Tony Drews <tony@tonydrews.=
com> wrote:<br><br></blockquote></div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D=
"ltr">=EF=BB=BF
=20
<meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3DUTF-8"=
>
=20
=20
<p>I run that setup, it was an uncle jack trick. Here's what he
wrote about that (on my engine building tips page):</p>
<p><span style=3D"color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Tahoma, Helvetica,
Arial, sans-serif; font-size: medium; font-style: normal;
font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal;
font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2;
text-align: left; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none;
white-space: normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;
-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: rgb(255, 255,
255); text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-color:
initial; display: inline !important; float: none;">"I also like
to strap the center main to add rigidity to the bottom end. To=
do this, mill off the cast face of the main flush with the
surfaces for the head bolts. Get a front strap for a Chevy 400
block. You must enlarge the holes in the strap and you must us=
e
longer bolts. Some builders feel that this is totally
unnecessary, but since starting to do this, I have never had a
main bearing deteriorate faster than a rod bearing, which is
something that happens more frequently than you would expect."</span=
></p>
<div class=3D"moz-cite-prefix">Regards, Tony Drews<br>
</div>
<div class=3D"moz-cite-prefix"><br>
</div>
<div class=3D"moz-cite-prefix">On 11/22/2019 3:58 PM, Phil Gott via
Fot wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type=3D"cite" cite=3D"mid:9832B3FA-B6DB-40A2-BD22-81071EA4BC=
5A@aol.com">
<pre class=3D"moz-quote-pre" wrap=3D"">Has anyone seen the need to add=
extra support to the center main on the TR wet sleeve engine? We have an en=
gine that has a steel bridge cross-bolted underneath and supporting the cent=
er main cap. Is this needed? Just took 3 factory cranks to the machine shop a=
nd all three were bent about .002 in (.002 run out at center main when suppo=
rted on first and last mains.) Two of these were raced, the third was remove=
d from a tired street engine. note: None of these cranks came out of the eng=
ine with extra support at the center.
Curious as to the need for the extra support.
Thanks,
Phil Gott
114 TR4A
Sent from my iPhone
_______________________________________________
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@autox.team.net</a>
<a class=3D"moz-txt-link-freetext" href=3D"http://www.fot-racing.com";>http:/=
/www.fot-racing.com</a>
e.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a>
Archive: <a class=3D"moz-txt-link-freetext" href=3D"http://autox.team.net/ar=
chive">http://autox.team.net/archive</a> <a class=3D"moz-txt-link-freetext" h=
ref=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot";>http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot<=
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team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony@tonydrews.com">http://autox.team.net/mailm=
an/options/fot/tony@tonydrews.com</a>
</pre>
</blockquote>
=20
</div></blockquote></div></body></html>=
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_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com
Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
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