In RMVR we don't know what to expect from our governing board. It took two
years for them to allow dual DCOE's
on my TR4. Many old time members, especially one founding member that doesn't
even drive anymore acted like I just shot their dogs at the mere mention of
dual webers on a TR4. Several people stood in front of the board to vote
against what was homologated in 1963. RMVR used to have a D-Mod class where
they would be considered normal equipment. They did away with that class long
ago. Anyway, they eventually let me have them with a token bump in class to CP.
The funny thing is, depending on WHO you are blind eyes will be turned. We have
two Porsche 914's running Mega-Squirt engine management systems & E85 fuel with
the full blessing of the Porsche eligibility commissioner, another EP 914 that
can chase down big bore mustangs and camaro's on the straights, likely a 2.5+
liter motor
and a wicked fast Super 7 with all Elan suspension. And that's just the small
bore class.
It can be very confusing sometimes in this club. I run on Hoosier SM-7's or
Toyo RA-1's. The car has never been on bias plies or any vintage tire. We also
have some very draconian spin rules. You go 90 degrees on track & never leave
the pavement, it's still a spin & you report to the grid. You can be put on the
trailer for two of them in a weekend.
If the tire rules suddenly mandated everybody went to vintage rubber it would
be a complete spin fest in this club.
If we were held to the tire rule I wouldn't mind but all the fast cars
mentioned above plus a couple Hufffaker powered spridgets are my main
competition in small bore and they all run modern radials like the SM-7.
So, as long as they run them so will I. I'm hoping to get a pass to run the
Toyo RA-1's at Road America in September.
Jim g
> On March 13, 2018 at 10:11 PM DAVE HOGYE via Fot <fot at autox.team.net>
> wrote:
>
>
> Vintage racing is the best. You get to make your own rules and no one
> notices, because they need to get more people involved in the sport and keep
> the entry cost down.
>
>
> Yet, I'm still having fun with my estimated 125 at the crank HPs in my
> TR3. 13 events and I really haven't touched it. Tires, gas and basic
> maintenance. Same engine, same transmission. I qualified 5th in my second
> race and got my first pole in the wet in my 7th race. Thankfully, no one can
> see when I hit the nitrous button and then blow by everyone on the straight.
> If you've seen my videos, you'd be familiar with this part. Even the cars
> that I blow on by, can't see me.
>
>
> I think we'd all be having more fun, racing together, under the same
> rules...and tires...and axles.
>
>
> All smiles, DH
>
>
> > > On March 13, 2018 at 1:44 PM Steven Belfer via Fot <fot at
> autox.team.net> wrote:
> >
> > I was lucky enough to drive Ken?s TR4 and I?m pretty sure it?s got
> > rocket boosters in there somewhere.
> >
> > ~Steve
> >
> >
> > On Mar 13, 2018, at 12:51 PM, John Styduhar via Fot <fot at
> > autox.team.net mailto:fot at autox.team.net > wrote:
> >
> >
> > > > > I agree with Ken. As long as my car will pass
> > the safety tech inspection, I should be able to "fix" my TR any way I like
> > if it keeps me interested in this hobby. If I want to shoehorn in a SBC,
> > just put me in a different class.
> > >
> > >
> > > On Tue, Mar 13, 2018 at 2:08 PM, Kenneth Knight via Fot <fot
> > > at autox.team.net mailto:fot at autox.team.net > wrote:
> > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > It is good to see that other clubs are allowing newer
> > > > cars into their races. VARA has been doing this for several years so
> > > > that we could survive, keep the club solvent and the cost of racing
> > > > reasonable. The future of vintage racing is an expansion to cars from
> > > > the 80?s and 90?s, they are long past their prime in other venues,
> > > > cheap and they bring in new drivers. They are in fact ?vintage?, like
> > > > our cars were in the 80? and 90?s. More important, these are the guys
> > > > and gals that lusted for a certain hot car of the that era and now have
> > > > older kids and the bucks to go racing. Without these folks our sport
> > > > will pass along with us.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > The same is true of parts. Much of our equipment is
> > > > worn out and not maintainable without great cost and effort any longer.
> > > > Gear boxes are an example. I am down to my last good transmission
> > > > case for my dog box. When that goes, or the gear set is toast, I am
> > > > making the switch to a modern box (same ratios) that I can maintain.
> > > > Like many of us I have missed races because of transmission failures.
> > > > Tony runs a Ford 8? because he doesn?t want to get hurt, and it is
> > > > bullet proof for racing, even has a weight penalty. A gear box switch
> > > > is inevitable if we want to keep our cars on track at an expenditure of
> > > > time and money that makes sense.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > There are tons of other parts that make engines last
> > > > longer (and yes they make more power). An old TR motor is nothing but
> > > > half a Chevy Small Block; those guys spent hundreds of millions
> > > > developing motor parts that we can take advantage of. Same is true of
> > > > blueprinting techniques, there are much better ways to build engines
> > > > than ?back in the day? and if you read a book and learn how to do it
> > > > the bloody lump lasts twice as long. Last time I had my motor out I
> > > > could have put the coated bearings with 25 races on them back in. At
> > > > 36 races I had <5% leak down on the rings and valves. Started out
> > > > building the old school way, with old school parts, those days are over
> > > > as I don?t have the time to spend five days in the shop for every day
> > > > at the track.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Oil. There is no such thing as cheap racing oil.
> > > > Modern oil is the best it has ever been and makes the motor last. I
> > > > had technical help from Lake Speed who is the ?man? for Joe Gibbs
> > > > Driven race oil. The stuff is $18 a quart but will last 500+ miles in
> > > > the car (4-6 race weekends). Just change the filter after every race
> > > > and add on quart, total cost $30.00. I can run all the way down to 27
> > > > wt. (mixing) but just run the 30 wt. racing oil even at +100 degrees in
> > > > the desert and the oil pressure is always spot on. Tight clearances,
> > > > light oil and great bearing life, well worth the cost.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > My point in all of this is that ?vintage? racing is
> > > > changing, both the cars and the people. We are going to have to accept
> > > > and adapt or slowly see our sport fade. They will always be a special
> > > > place for those cars with a 50 year race history, prepared exactly like
> > > > it raced in 1965. For the rest of the grid, and those of us that
> > > > don?t have cars with history, there are going to be cars with certain
> > > > changes that get us to the track. Besides some of us are just SoCal
> > > > Hot Rodders at heart with a touch of ?good ole boy? NACAR ingenuity.
> > > > Now I need to get back to work on that 85% scale TR-4 body in aluminum,
> > > > or possible carbon fiber???..Everyone have a great 2018 season racing!
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Ken
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > _______________________________________________
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> > > >
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> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > > >
> > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
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