According to the DWR website, any of their cams other than the DWR1 require
releaving the pistons. My engine was just finished with a DWR1 cam with his
bucket followers and lifters, and I?ve had a DWR high capacity oil pump for
years. I also had DWR 85mm pistons installed. Unfortunately it is not yet
back in the car so I can?t give you any driving impressions. You can talk to
Dave Nock, though; he runs a DWR1 cam, as I recall.
Bruce Steele
Brea, CA
1960 BN7
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David
Masucci
Sent: Friday, May 12, 2017 4:06 AM
To: Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Selecting a replacement CAM for BJ8
Hi all,
A few weeks back I mentioned to the list that I?m considering using a Welch
DWR8 cam. Based on responses and more research I think I will go with the DWR1
with the bucket followers and longer pushrods. I also plan to use the high
capacity pump on my mostly stock engine.
I was considering using the roller rockers, but am not sure if that?s going to
make any significant improvement. I know it will buy a couple of ponies due to
less friction, but is there any other significant advantage on a basically
stock engine. Would I be wasting my money on something fancy that really has
modest benefit? The DWR1 cam provides 0.252? cam lift. According to Welch, the
valve lift with standard rockers would be 0.358?, and would not need pockets
machined into the block. Based on the 1.65:1 ratio of the roller rockers, the
valve lift will be 0.416?. I believe that will require pockets in the block.
Does anyone have opinions on this combination? The roller rocker assembly is
over $1200 not including getting into the US from the UK. Is there a better
place in the engine to spend those dollars?
Thanks all!!
Dave
64 BJ8
72 XJ6
72 Bonneville
Bob, your post is of interest. I just sent my engine to the painter today with
DWR 85mm pistons; DWR1 cam, hollow tappets and matching pushrods; and DWR
lightened flywheel with 9.5? clutch. Already had the DWR high capacity oil
pump. Plus new DWR reverse, 1st and cluster gears and all new synchros. I?m
keeping the stock intake and exhaust manifolds, and the stock carbs. My car
was originally a non-OD cars (now so equipped), so it has the 3.54 rear.
Really looking forward to experiencing how it will drive.
Bruce Steele
Brea, CA
1960 BN7
Sent: Saturday, April 15, 2017 8:38 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Selecting a replacement CAM for BJ8
Neglected to mention I have a Lempert 3.54 diff in my car, so the lower torque
curve is helpful.
On 4/15/2017 7:17 AM, Bob Spidell wrote:
Hi Dave,
I just finished a rebuild on my BJ8; my engine--with over 100K miles--was in
similar condition to yours with significant cam lobe and lifter wear. I
installed a DWR1 cam; it's more appropriate if you're really ' looking for
stock or mild tune only.' The DWR1 is 'slightly better than stock', in DWR's
word's, and should be most appropriate for a street/touring car as the torque
curve is lower. I don't think you'll gain much if anything with the DWR8
unless you at least use headers and port your head--or buy one of DWR's alloy
heads--and then additional tuning is required. Steve G.--on this list, I
believe--is doing a build with a DWR8 cam, but he has headers and the rest of
his engine is likely tuned for the higher torque/power band. The DWR1 doesn't
want to go much over 4,500RPM, but I do mostly long distance touring so I'm
usually running 2,500RPM, give-or-take. I do a lot of driving '100 miles from
nowhere' so I generally go pretty easy on my drivetrain.
DWR recommends their High Capacity oil pump when using their gun-drilled cam,
unless you're going to spend time over 6,000RPM (in which case you'll probably
want their billet crankshaft, conrods, pistons, etc.). Since you had
cam/lifter damage, be sure to clean all components--e.g. rocker
shaft--thoroughly to remove any debris. My builder was adamant about that.
You can use either 'standard' lifters with your current pushrods, or get bucket
lifters and their pushrods. I went with standard. I sourced an adjustable,
vernier timing set from Australia; my builder said the cam did require some
adjustment.
DWR Support has a chat facility; they are very responsive but, of course,
there's a significant time difference. Whichever cam you use, please let us
know your results.
Bob
Hi All,
Well now that spring is here, I am resuming the rebuild of my BJ8 engine. The
engine was rebuilt back in 1999, but since I'm doing a full resto of the car, I
decided to take a look at the engine. While all other parameters were well
within spec, the cam and lifters were damaged. Back then I didn't know much
about modern oils and the lack of zinc, and since that's the only part of the
engine that didn't do well, I am assuming that must be why.
So I am now trying to decide what to do. I can have my cam reground, or buy
new. Since I believe it was already reground and based on the wear, I am
thinking maybe new is the best choice. I am looking for stock or mild tune
only.
I am not a pro engine builder, but I know the basics and am not new to the
process. I know that if I change something like the cam parameters, I need to
understand how that affects the rest of the valve train. I looking for guidance
on selecting the right components.
I am considering the Welch DWR8 cam and lifter package. I understand that I
will have to machine pockets into the block for valve clearance. I will be
having the head rebuilt to basic stock parameters as far as the valve gear is
concerned. I need to determine how to select the correct pushrods. Since this
cam is drilled to feed oil to the lobes, do I need to make other modifications
to support that feature?
So I'm looking for some feedback and recommendations from the list. Has anyone
followed a similar path on their 6 cylinder Healey? Any opinions, cautions, or
advice would be appreciated. Is this cam my best choice? Also if there are
better options to consider I'd like to hear that also.
As usual, thanks in advance for any help.
Dave
64 BJ8
72 XJ6
72 Bonneville
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