Neglected to mention I have a Lempert 3.54 diff in my car, so the lower
torque curve is helpful.
On 4/15/2017 7:17 AM, Bob Spidell wrote:
>
> Hi Dave,
>
> I just finished a rebuild on my BJ8; my engine--with over 100K
> miles--was in similar condition to yours with significant cam lobe and
> lifter wear. I installed a DWR1 cam; it's more appropriate if you're
> really ' looking for stock or mild tune only.' The DWR1 is 'slightly
> better than stock', in DWR's word's, and should be most appropriate
> for a street/touring car as the torque curve is lower. I don't think
> you'll gain much if anything with the DWR8 unless you at least use
> headers and port your head--or buy one of DWR's alloy heads--and then
> additional tuning is required. Steve G.--on this list, I believe--is
> doing a build with a DWR8 cam, but he has headers and the rest of his
> engine is likely tuned for the higher torque/power band. The DWR1
> doesn't want to go much over 4,500RPM, but I do mostly long distance
> touring so I'm usually running 2,500RPM, give-or-take. I do a lot of
> driving '100 miles from nowhere' so I generally go pretty easy on my
> drivetrain.
>
> DWR recommends their High Capacity oil pump when using their
> gun-drilled cam, unless you're going to spend time over 6,000RPM (in
> which case you'll probably want their billet crankshaft, conrods,
> pistons, etc.). Since you had cam/lifter damage, be sure to clean all
> components--e.g. rocker shaft--thoroughly to remove any debris. My
> builder was adamant about that. You can use either 'standard' lifters
> with your current pushrods, or get bucket lifters and their pushrods.
> I went with standard. I sourced an adjustable, vernier timing set
> from Australia; my builder said the cam did require some adjustment.
>
> DWR Support has a chat facility; they are very responsive but, of
> course, there's a significant time difference. Whichever cam you use,
> please let us know your results.
>
> Bob
>
> On 4/15/2017 4:12 AM, drmasucci at comcast.net wrote:
>> Hi All,
>>
>> Well now that spring is here, I am resuming the rebuild of my BJ8
>> engine. The engine was rebuilt back in 1999, but since I'm doing a
>> full resto of the car, I decided to take a look at the engine. While
>> all other parameters were well within spec, the cam and lifters were
>> damaged. Back then I didn't know much about modern oils and the lack
>> of zinc, and since that's the only part of the engine that didn't do
>> well, I am assuming that must be why.
>>
>> So I am now trying to decide what to do. I can have my cam reground,
>> or buy new. Since I believe it was already reground and based on the
>> wear, I am thinking maybe new is the best choice. I am looking for
>> stock or mild tune only.
>>
>> I am not a pro engine builder, but I know the basics and am not new
>> to the process. I know that if I change something like the cam
>> parameters, I need to understand how that affects the rest of the
>> valve train. I looking for guidance on selecting the right components.
>>
>> I am considering the Welch DWR8 cam and lifter package. I understand
>> that I will have to machine pockets into the block for valve
>> clearance. I will be having the head rebuilt to basic stock
>> parameters as far as the valve gear is concerned. I need to determine
>> how to select the correct pushrods. Since this cam is drilled to feed
>> oil to the lobes, do I need to make other modifications to support
>> that feature?
>>
>> So I'm looking for some feedback and recommendations from the list.
>> Has anyone followed a similar path on their 6 cylinder Healey? Any
>> opinions, cautions, or advice would be appreciated. Is this cam my
>> best choice? Also if there are better options to consider I'd like to
>> hear that also.
>>
>> As usual, thanks in advance for any help.
>>
>> Dave
>> 64 BJ8
>> 72 XJ6
>> 72 Bonneville
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
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>
>
>
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