It still sounds to me like a residual pressure valve. Remove the line from the
M/C, then unscrew the fitting from the body of the M/C. Under that fitting
there might be a valve bod and spring. remove then, reassemble.
A faulty line is also possible. With the peal all the way to the floor and
stuck, open the bleed valve and see what happens.
On May 12, 2013, at 6:41 PM, "Bill Tobin" <william.tobin31@verizon.net>
wrote:
> Hi Tony, I just talked to Mike.
> He's running a braided line to the slave, but they have been known to fail
at times.
> Mike's coming down tomorrow AM. I have a spare M/C and Slave. I want to
check the bore sizes on his and see if they are the same as mine.
> Like I said to him, if the clutch worked before replacing the hydraulics and
doesn't work now, it's probably the hydraulics.
> Your thought of a residual valve in brake M/C is a good point.
> Here's hoping! (I have a spare clutch too, just in case!)
> Thanks for your help.
> Bill
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Drews" <tony@tonydrews.com>
> To: "Mike Moore" <mmoore@wave1.net>; "'FOT'" <fot@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, May 12, 2013 9:04 PM
> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4 clutch getting desperate, 2 days till racing school
>
>
>> Is the clutch shaft between the slave and the tranny in the upper hole? I
have 3 holes and use the upper one. Lower holes will reduce pedal effort and
require more pedal travel.
>>
>> Are you sure you got a clutch master cylinder and not a brake master
cylinder? The brake ones can have a valve that prevents a bunch of fluid
pushing back into the master cylinder and would hold the clutch engaged for a
while. I've just googled for this in relation to a wilwood master cylinder
and find no reference of such a valve thought.
>>
>> Also, are you sure you got the same bore diameters that you had before? A
smaller bore master cylinder or a larger bore slave cylinder would increase
pedal stroke and lower the engagement / disengagement closer to the floor.
>>
>> Another thought - the flexible line that connects to the slave - any chance
that's collapsing? Is it rubber? Can it be replaced? Sometimes rubber lines
fail in a way that causes them to act as one way valves.
>>
>> That's all I can think of... Hope you get it fixed! That's gotta be
hugely frustrating!
>>
>> Tony Drews
>>
>> At 07:24 PM 5/12/2013, Mike Moore wrote:
>>> At track today, I had to push clutch in 95% of way to be able to shift. If
I
>>> go 100% pedal sticks to floor, but pulls up really easily.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Problem started after I replaced m/c and s/c. Master is Wilwood (same as
was
>>> in car) slave is stock from Roadster Factory.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Just took clutch out, it is stock TR6 and pressure plate and contact disc
>>> look fine. Fork is bolted to shaft and is not bent.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Do I have an adjustment problem? If I leave slave shaft slightly loose, I
>>> can't shift easily.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Can I have the m/c shaft extended too far?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Maybe a stiffer spring on pedal to bypass problem for now?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I can drive 5 hours tomorrow and get another clutch but don't want to
waste
>>> the time since this one looks ok.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>>
>>> Mike
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Michael T. Moore, CPA
>>>
>>> 2007 West 32nd Street
>>>
>>> Erie, PA 16508
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Phone: 814-868-4831 ext 103
>>>
>>> Fax: 814-864-7383
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> fot@autox.team.net
>>>
>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>
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>> _______________________________________________
>> fot@autox.team.net
>>
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>>
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