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Re: [Fot] Series 80 Koni adjustment

To: sherry robyn <sherryjimmy6116@att.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Series 80 Koni adjustment
From: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2013 12:16:33 -0500 (EST)
Cc: fot@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: fot@autox.team.net
References: <10696.7536775c.3e4681cf@aol.com> <1360351576.44487.YahooMailRC@web184803.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> <5F4FC25785F847FDBCC34A6FF913D329@hpd530> <1360807701.62440.YahooMailRC@web184802.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Hi,

I'm a long-time TR6 autocrosser.

My suggestion would be to go to full stiff on the settings and then try to 
back off 'till the car isn't completely tail-happy.

You are much better off with stiff shocks / springs in the rear than with 
a big roll bar because with the roll bar you'll lift the inside wheel and 
get wheel spin (unless you have a Detroit locker or maybe a Salisbury 
type). I know this from experience. With a Quaife or open diff, you will 
get wheel spin. I've done the big bar on my street TR6 (used to run that 
car in SCCA FSP) and with the race car (SCCA F Prepared).

Stiff springs get you less body roll, less "squat" on take-off at the 
expense of making the back a little bit more loose (depends on how stiff 
the springs are). On rough courses, the car will be really tail happy, but 
that's the tradeoff.

I hope this helps.

rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
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