Greg;
I used a Ford Radiator from Jegs. I also used the expansion tank from
Jegs and put it where the battery box is. I plumbed out of the back of the
head into the tank and out of the tank into the waterpump. I have never had
water temps over 180F even on 95 degree days. I fill up the radiator first.
Cap it off and then fill up the expansion tank to about 1" from the top and I
am good to go. This gets the whole system full. I have the expansion tank
because the radiator sits lower than a stock radiator and it allows me to get
the system full of water. I use Parker 801 push lok hose to plumb the tank.
If you like email me off line and I can send you some photos.
Mike Mehl
________________________________
From: Larry Young <cartravel@pobox.com>
To:
fot@autox.team.net
Sent: Friday, February 8, 2013 1:45 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot]
TR coolant pressure/flow
Greg,
I don't have an answer to your question
regarding pressures, but I had a similar arrangement in my TR3. The Chevy
style radiator is a great idea, because it eliminates the worry of
overheating. I cut off the radiator fill cap and plugged it off, since it is
unreachable anyway. I put the expansion tank in (from Pegasus I believe) so
that I would have a way to fill it. I wanted to have water flowing thru the
expansion tank to effectively increase the volume of water in the system. I
went with the return to the suction side of the pump with 1/8 inch pipe and
small diameter hose to keep the flow rate down. I drilled and tapped the
thermostat housing for a drain valve so I could bleed all the air out. It
worked very well and was one of the best upgrades I did to the car. Some would
argue that you should have a cap to regulate the pressure downstream from the
thermostat, but I found that it worked fine with something like a 7 lb cap on
the
expansion tank. You would think this would open up due to pumping pressure.
I think if I did it over again, I'd just put a cap somewhere downstream from
the thermostat and eliminate the expansion tank. I could probably find some
photos if you'd like to see them.
Larry Young
On 2/7/2013 9:08 PM, Greg &
Alison Blake wrote:
> Anyone out there every gauged coolant pressure on the TR
block? I'd love to
> see the results.
>
>
> I am going through the process
of adding a surge (expansion) tank on my TR3
> and I am starting to wonder if
I am plumbing the return line in the correct
> spot. I have installed the
tank in the battery box with a line entering the
> top of the tank that
originates at the heater port in the rear of the head.
> For the return line,
off the bottom of the expansion tank, I have added a
> welded fitting in my
top radiator hose between the thermostat housing and
> the radiator to accept
the return line. I use a cross flow Chevy style
> radiator so I have a metal
radiator pipe between the thermostat housing and
> the intake for the
radiator. I thought it would be better to introduce the
> hot coolant from
the expansion tank back into the radiator vs dumping
> directly back into
suction side of the water pump via the return heater
> port. My thinking was
that I should not introduce hot coolant into the
> suction side of the pump
and re circulate it back thru the block. The way I
> have it plumbed (if it
works), the hot coolant from the expansion tank will
> first go thru the
radiator then into the pump and back thru the block. I am
> guessing that
downstream of the thermostat housing (I use a thermostat) the
> pressure will
be lower than at the back of the block.
>
>
> My questions are:
>
> Has
anyone measured pressure between the thermostat housing and the
> radiator?
>
> Has anyone measured pressure at the back of the head heater port?
>
> What
is the difference?
>
> Am I going to get coolant to flow from my expansion
tank back into the top
> radiator hose or is the pressure higher in that top
hose than the back of
> the block?
>
> Would it be better to plumb the return
line into the return heater port?
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Greg
>
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