Thanks, Bob. I have decided to put the HeliCoil at the top of the hole and
use a short stud. The existing hole is already the exact size for the
HeliCoil tap so the installation was easy. I torqued it up and looks to be
OK, so I'm hoping for the best with no resulting block stresses that will
cause problems. The owner does not stress the car. Thanks for your
suggestions.
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Kramer [mailto:rkramer3@austin.rr.com]
Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2012 8:21 PM
To: mhado@att.net
Cc: <fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR2 Cylinder Head Studs
I don't know about the Helicoil option. You might be able to convert the
"hole" to a short stud with a Helicoil but it may stress the block
improperly. FWIW I took apart one block that had a long stud drilled and
tapped at the bottom through the block and locked in place that way. It was
also drilled for a set screw from the side. It wasn't a running engine but
it looked like it had worked.
Sent from my iPhone
On Dec 18, 2012, at 6:48 PM, "M&M Hado" <mhado@att.net> wrote:
> I was just finishing up a TR2 engine rebuild and one of the 9.5" studs
> stripped the threads in the block at the bottom of the 4" hole when I
> got to about 70 ft-lb. Has anyone successfully put a HeliCoil at the
> bottom of this hole?
>
> The original size of the hole in the block is about 17/32" (just
> enough to accommodate the 1/2" stud, of course) and this happens to be
> the tap drill size for the 1/2-13 HeliCoil. The OD of the HeliCoil itself
is about .615"
> so that means I would have to drill out the hole in the block to
> something larger than this - say 5/8" and save about an inch at the
> bottom for tapping for the HeliCoil. I'm wondering if there is enough
> meat in the block to drill out the hole to 5/8".
>
> Having gone this far, I really would like to save this block so any
> ideas/hints/experience would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mike Hado
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