> Sorry if this comes through twice, got bounced for "too long". Forgot to
> shorten original message...
> Anyway...
>
Unfortunately/ fortunately, there are lots of answers to these questions.
The pri independent rear looks neat.... but coil over shocks are
specifically mentioned as "not allowed" with all the vintage group's rules
that I looked at.
I think that here the important thing to understand is that we want a setup
that is lower and has limited travel. That's the nut shell. From the
beginning days of improvement the cautions have been cost and complexity.
You could get really complicated here and have lots of adjustments and
options. I'm not sure any of that matters. What I want, and what is fast,
is a setup that doesn't move much, never bottoms out, and is stronger than
stock. Looks like Vince found a way to do that for 15.00 (Smart)
There are several ways to go down this road and some are more complex than
others
The important basics are mainly a stiffer spring, stronger axles, and
better hubs.
Steve and Chuck seem to have made great strides in development here with
the use of the 240Z axle set.
Older versions, like mine.... use TR6 axles and Corvair CV joints (39 years
old) or perhaps with custom made billet axles and hubs (and of coarse good
hard shocks).
Whatever is done and with what parts... essentially all need to accomplish
the same thing....give the proper spring height. which in turn gives the
proper camber. For the record, about perfect for a race GT6 is 3/4 degree
negative. In terms of an acceptable maximum and minimum we are looking for
a number of 1 to 1/2 negative. Any beefy set-up in that rage will be fine
Keep it simple, make it strong.
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